Diyarbakır Grand Mosque - guneydogumirasi.org · 108 A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA Diyarbakır Grand Mosque Diyarbakiring 11/15/07 8:08 PM Page 108

108 A G U I D E T O S O U T H E A S T E R N A N A T O L I A

Diyarbakır Grand Mosque

Diyarbakiring 11/15/07 8:08 PM Page 108

109D I Y A R B A K I R

Diyarbak›r


Diyarbak›r at a GlanceThe province of Diyarbakır is located on a volcanic basin in the middle of SoutheasternAnatolia, and is surrounded by branches of the Taurus Mountains. The black, volcanic soilwas formed from basaltic lava flow. In addition to the Tigris, the region is covered withsmall rivers and streams fed by the mountain slopes. The city is referred to as Amidi inAssyrian sources, was called Amid following the Arab incursions, and became known asKara or ‘Black’ Amid with the arrival of the Turks. The current name is derived from thename ‘Diyar-ı Bekr’, meaning ‘realm of the Bakr’ – a reference to the Arab Bakr tribe whosettled the region during the Arab incursions. In a speech in 1937, Atatürk called the city byits current appellation, after which it became officially known as Diyarbakır. The history ofDiyarbakır dates back to around 7500 BC. Dozens of civilizations have passed through thecity, leaving behind many historic monuments. The most important of these are the stunningcity walls. The city’s main sources of income are farming and livestock breeding.


The TigrisThe Tigris is the most importantriver in Diyarbakır, watering theregion’s farmland via a networkof irrigation channels.Excavations at the ruins atNineveh, Nemrut and Assyriancities reveal that the Tigris wasalso once used fortransportation. Since prehistorictimes, rafts known as ‘kelek’have been used on the Tigris andthe Euphrates for trade, traveland transporting wood.Traditionally made from wood,these rafts remain in use to thisday.

Social FabricDiyarbakır has been animportant hub throughouthistory, serving as a naturalbridge between Anatolia andMesopotamia, Europe and Asia.Diyarbakır has been animportant meeting point andmelting pot for a wide range ofcultures, and many civilizationshave had a lasting impact on thecity. Today, Diyarbakır’s colorfulsocial fabric is woven fromTurkish, Syriac, Chaldean,Armenian, Kurdish and Arabthreads.

A ‘kelek’ race on the Tigris


111D I Y A R B A K I R A T A G L A N C E

Provincial Population: 1,517,672 according to the 2000 census

City Center Population: 893,026Altitude: 660 meters above sea level

Area: 15,355 square kilometers Districts and Villages: 13 districts, 751 villages

Neighboring Provinces: Siirt and Mufl to the east; fianl›urfa, Ad›yaman andMalatya to the west; Elaz›¤ and Bingöl to the north;

Mardin to the south

ID CARD

CottonDiyarbakır has recently begun tocultivate cotton using theirrigated farming system. Thelocal Golda cotton is one of thefinest cotton varieties producedin Turkey.

The WallsDiyarbakır’s famous and historiccity walls were restored in 349under the Byzantine EmperorConstantius II. Considered the

oldest city walls in the world,they are also the second longestfortifications after the Great Wallof China. The shield-shapedwalls are built from local blackvolcanic basalt.

NatureDiyarbakır is located in a basinwith a central depression, and issurrounded by mountains. Theregion has a harsh continentalclimate with extremely hotsummers. Nevertheless, its wintersare comparatively milder than therest of Eastern Anatolia as theSoutheastern Taurus Mountains tothe north shelter it from coldnorthern currents. The steppevegetation blooms briefly duringthe spring, but dries up at thebeginning of summer with the endof the rains. A smattering of oakforests can be found in the aridmountains.

ChanginglifestylesDiyarbakır has experiencedlarge-scale immigration since the1980s, resulting in a populationexplosion. Consequently, the cityhas grown dramatically, spillingover the city walls. Theconstruction of dams and power

plants has supported the region’sdevelopment, and irrigationfarming has become increasinglywidespread. The city’s university,other educational institutions andairport have also attracted tradeand tourism to the region inrecent years. New festivals havealso added to Diyarbakır’scultural scene.

The walls of Diyarbakır seen from the On Gözlü Bridge



The Colors of Old Diyarbak›rAt first glance, Diyarbakır is a dark city: its historic city walls, housesand even its soil verge on black. Diyarbakır derives itsdeep color from the basalt rocks used in theconstruction of almost all its buildings. The cityis set at the edge of a plateau formed from lavathat erupted from the Karacadağ volcano. Thislava cooled to form volcanic basalt rock, whichgives the city its characteristic gloomy hue.

� Karacada¤The 1919-meter high Karacadağis a typical shield volcano builtup from layers of basalt lavaflows. The volcano is in thesouthwest of the DiyarbakırBasin on the Urfa-Diyarbakırprovincial border. The lavastretches as far as the TigrisValley to the east. BecauseKaracadağ consists of volcanicrock, the waters that enter themountain reemerge at itsfoothills or even further beyond.

PlateausThe broken plateaus of Gaziantep and Şanlıurfa stretch to the west ofthe Karacadağ volcano, while the land to its east is hillier.

A 14th-centuryKarakoyunluheadstoneshaped like aram

Basalt religiousand militarybuildingsBasalt is a common construction

material in Diyarbakır. Almostevery type of building you canthink of is constructed frombasalt, from the city walls to itsmosques and madrasas.

A dead end staircase near the Mardin Gate

Yedi Kardeş Tower

Mesudiye Madrasa



Basalt housesDiyarbakır houses are built frombasalt, a porous rock that keepshouses cool in the summer andwarm in the winter. The interiorsof these basalt houses areembellished with whiteornamentation known as ‘cıs’that contrasts beautifully withthe dark stone.

The Esma Ocak House (top); ‘Cıs’ornamentation (left); Diyarbakır’s dark

houses are brightened by whiteornamentation (above and below left); A

narrow Diyarbakır street (right)



Diyarbak›r HousesMost Diyarbakır houses are built from basalt and feature elegantlydecorated windows and ‘gezemek’ railings. The layout of Diyarbakırhouses is dictated by the local climate. The houses are divided intosummer and winters areas: the summer sections are usually north facing,while the winter sections face south. The pools in the courtyards andiwans also help to keep the houses cool in the hot summer months.



Every house inDiyarbakır has a centralcourtyard, most of whichfeature a pool anddecorative plants. Thekitchen is accesseddirectly from thecourtyard.

The rooms, halls and iwans areset at least 50 cm above thecourtyard.

The cusped arch windows areembellished with geometricdesigns, while elegant railingsprovide security and preventchildren from falling.

The walls of the rooms featuredecorative niches for placing gaslamps or framed photographs.



A detail fromthe GrandMosque


117T H E H I S T O R Y O F D I Y A R B A K I R

Standing at the crossroads of Anatoliaand Mesopotamia, Diyarbakır has beenan important settlement throughouthuman history. Archeologicalexcavations and researchconducted in and aroundthe city have revealedthat it has beencontinuouslysettled since theStone Age.Stone toolsdating from thePaleolithic erahave been foundin the HilarCaves. Çayönü isconsidered one ofthe earliest examplesof the agriculturalcommunities that developedin the Neolithic period, while theGirikihaciyan Tumulus shows traces of

Copper Age culture. Almost everycivilization that ruled Anatolia left itsstamp on Diyarbakır, which served as amilitary and trade capital for theMitanni, Assyrians, Arameans, Urartu,

Meds, Persians, Seleucids,Parthians, Romans,

Byzantines, Umayyads,Marwanids, and

Seljuks.Nevertheless, theRomans,Akkoyunlu andOttomans had themost profoundimpact on the

city: Diyarbakırwas one of the

largest border citiesin the eastern Roman

Empire, served as theAkkoyunlu capital, and was an

important state in the Ottoman Empire,boasting 20 districts.

The History of Diyarbak›r



Prehistoric Diyarbak›rTraces of human habitation dating from everyprehistoric period have been uncovered in andaround Diyarbakır. Over 100 archeologicalsettlements have been identified in the region.Excavations at a number of these sites haverevealed important information about thedevelopment of civilizations in Anatolia andthe Near East.

Çayönü Located in the villageof Sesverenpınar sevenkilometers southeast ofErgani, Çayönü is animportant Pre-PotteryNeolithic B settlementin Anatolia thatoffers tremendousinsights into theera. Although thesite has few visibleremains, significantworks uncoveredduring theexcavations are ondisplay at theDiyarbakır Museum.Çayönü is one of theoldest known villagesettlements in Anatoliaand serves as awindow onto the livesof the earliestagriculturalcommunities datingback some 10,000years.

Bronze axes (aboveand below)

Girikihaciyan TumulusA prehistoric village has been uncovered atthe Girikihaciyan Tumulus locatednear the village of Ekinciler inDiyarbakır’s Eğil district. Pieces ofpainted pottery and tools madefrom flint, obsidian and bone havebeen unearthed at the site,including this idol (left) andmusical instrument made from bone(below).

The excavations at Çayönü haverevealed houses and other structureslaid out on a grid plan (above). Apregnant female figure discovered atÇayönü (left).

Diagramof a

Çayönühouse



CavesThe province of Diyarbakır ishome to many natural andmanmade caves that have beenused as shelter and for otherpurposes since ancient times.The most important of these arethe Birkleyn Cave in Lice, theHilar Caves in Ergani and theHassuni Cave in Silvan. TheKulp, Eğil Pir İbrahi, SüleymanAğa, Şikefte and Çüngüş cavesare other notable caves in theregion.

Birkleyn Caves On the rocky peaks to the east,104 kilometers along theDiyarbak›r-Bingöl roadCuneiform inscriptions andreliefs belonging to the Assyriankings Tiglath-Pileser I andShalmaneser III can be seen atthe entrance to both caves,which are still being excavated.

Hilar CavesThe village of Sesveren in theErgani districtReliefs and cell tombs have beendiscovered hidden among therocks. The exteriors of the tombsare ornamented with inscriptionsand reliefs of male and femalefigures as well as sun and moonmotifs.

Hassuni CavesOn the hilltops to the left of theroad, 7 km along the Silvan-Malabadi highwaySome 300 manmade cavesconsisting of roomsinterconnected by corridors arenestled together in this smallarea. The caves were mostly usedin the Middle Ages, but showtraces of Paleolithic habitation.

ÜçtepeÜçtepe is located around 40kilometers southeast ofDiyarbakır. The site is 300 metersfrom the village of Üçtepe,located 10 kilometers southwestof Bismil. 13 archeological levelsdating from the Early Bronze Ageto the Roman era have beenuncovered. The site was animportant settlement in theAssyrian Kingdom.



The Romans are thought to have arrived in Diyarbakır in 53 AD,holding sway over the region until 226 AD. From 226 to 395,the Romans battled for supremacy with the Parthians. TheSassanids soon entered the fray. With the division of the RomanEmpire in 395, the area came under Byzantine jurisdiction.Diyarbakır’s stunning walls are the city’s most important Romanstructures. Thought to have been originally built by theHurrians, the Inner Fortress (İçkale) was restored and itsfortifications strengthened by the Romans under Constantius II.The Inner Fortress consists of the eastern section of the wallsbetween Dağkapı, Yenikapı and Mardinkapı. The western sectionof this wall ran along what is now Gazi Caddesi. The westernwalls were demolished between 367 and 375, and replaced withthe section now running from Dağkapı to Urfakapı and fromthere to Mardinkapı. All of Diyarbakır’s later rulers restored oradded towers to the walls, which remain beautifully preserved tothis day.

The Romans and the Walls of Diyarbak›r

Diyarbak›r’sWalls and TowersThe fortifying walls of OldDiyarbakır are among thelongest, widest and strongest inthe world. The citadel is locatedat the eastern end of the basaltplateau that stretches fromKaracadağ to the Tigris, standinga hundred meters above groundlevel. The walls are shaped like ashield, or, according to some, aturbot, and are divided into twosections: the Outer Fortress(Dışkale) and Inner Fortress(İçkale).

Outer Fortress(D›flkale)The Outer Fortress measures 5km long, spanning 1700 metersfrom east to west and 1300 fromnorth to south. The walls measure10-12 meters high, and are 3-5meters thick, with a wide pathwayconnecting the towers. Of the 81towers, the most famous are theEvli Beden (Ulu Beden), YediKardeş and Keçi (Kiçi). Thetowers were used as dormitories,cellars, cisterns and depots. TheOuter Fortress has four gates:the Dağ (Harput) Gate, Urfa(Rum) Gate, Mardin (Teli) Gateand Yeni (Su or Dicle) Gate.

�UrfaGateThe walls havefour gates that arecommonly knownby the names ofthe neighboringcities that theyface. This is theUrfa Gate (left).

Hevsel Gardens


Inner Fortress (‹çkale)The original walls of the InnerFortress that incorporated theArtukid Arch were laterdemolished. New, wider walls werebuilt between 1524 and 1526under Sultan Süleyman theMagnificent. The Inner Fortresshas sixteen towers and four gates:the Fetih and Oğrun gates leadout of the city while the Saray andKüpeli gates lead to the area within thewalls of the Outer Fortress. Twochurches, the ruins of an ArtukidPalace, the Viran Tower, a cistern andmosque are found in the Inner Fortress.


Keçi �Tower

TheTigris

HarputGate

YeniGate

Ulu (Evli)Beden Tower

Mardin Gate

Yedi Kardefl Tower

HevselGardens



Artukid ArchThis 10-meter wide, pointed archserved as the entrance to theInner Fortress in Artukid times.The large, prose inscription onthe arch is dated 603 in theIslamic Hijri calendar (1206-1207 AD), evidence that the archdates from the same period asthe palace. Limestone reliefs oneither side of the arch depict alion attacking a bull, and areidentical to those on the easternentrance to the Grand Mosque.

Lion FountainLocated directly across from thearch, this fountain is made fromcut basalt and has a three foilcusped arch. Water pours out ofthe mouth of a statue of a lion

set in the arched niche. Today,only one statue remains, but it isthought that there was originallya pair.

The Church ofSaint George(Kara Papaz) The church is set at the northeastend of the Inner Fortress on asteep cliff overlooking the TigrisValley, and is an extension of thefortifying walls. Records showthat it was built by pre-Christianpagans and later converted into achurch. It is thought that theRomans used it as a fire temple,and it once served as an arsenal.The church was incorporatedinto the city walls as they werebeing built by the Romans underEmperor Constantius II. The

church consists of an entrance, acentral section covered by anelliptical dome and a vaultedapse to the east.

Hazreti SüleymanMosqueAlso known as the Kale orNasıriyye Mosque, the HazretiSüleyman Mosque was builtfrom 1155-1169 by NisanoğluEbul Kasım. The square planminaret features a number ofhorizontal moldings. The interiorof the mosque consists of threebarrel vaulted sections, includingthe screened maksoorah. Most ofthe mosque is made from ashlar.Ottoman era tombs of Sulaiman,son of Khalid ibn al-Walid, and anumber of companions ofMuhammed who died during theArab occupation of Diyarbakır

Highlights of the Inner Fortress

The Church of Saint George (Kara Papaz)

Artukid Arch

Lion Fountain

Hazreti Süleyman Mosque



can be seen next to the mosque.

Ulu Beden TowerThe black basalt, monumentalUlu Beden Tower was built in1208 by the architect Ibrahim binJafar for the Artukid leader al-Malik al-Salih Mahmud.

Nur TowerBuilt in 1089 by the SeljukSultan Malik Shah, the Nur(Light) Tower is located next tothe Yedi Kardeş Tower, and isdecorated with Seljuk symbols,running horses, lions, deer andfemale figures.

Yedi KardeflTowerThe cut basalt, cylindrical YediKardeş (Seven Brothers) Towerwas built in 1208 by the architect

Yahya bin Ibrahim Sufi for theArtukid leader al-Malik al-SalihMahmud and is decorated withthe Seljuk double-headed eagle,inscriptions and lion reliefs.

Keçi Tower The oldest and largest of thetowers on Diyarbakır’s city wallsstands on a carved outcrop ofrock to the east of the MardinGate. The 60-meter long Keçi(Goat) Tower projects out fromthe southern section of thefortress. The tower was used as atemple by the Byzantines, andwas later restored and added tothe fortress by the Marwanids.The inscription on the towerdates from this period. Theinterior of the large towerfeatures arches supported by 11columns. A small, round roomwith three embrasures stands atthe southern tip of the tower.

Lion reliefsLion reliefs feature prominently on Diyarbak›r’s historic structures, as they do

in many Anatolian cities. InAnatolian mythology, lions representcourage and protection; reliefs orstatues of lions stand at theentrances to cities, houses andtemples. The Romans are thought tohave appropriated the symbol of thelion from Anatolian civilizations, asthey did the goddess Cybele. Somehistorians interpret the lion as asymbol of struggle, power andsuperiority. The lion figures onDiyarbak›r’s walls were thought toserve as protective symbols.

Ulu Beden Tower

Nur Tower

Yedi Kardeş Tower

Keçi Tower



The Akkoyunlu (White Sheep) Turkmen tribal federation(1340-1507) ruled the lands from present-day Khorasan tothe Euphrates, and from the Caucasus Mountains to theGulf of Oman. Early on, the Akkoyunlu settled inDiyarbakır and soon annexed the entire region. Afterdefeating the Karakoyunlu Turkmen tribal federation, theymoved their center of power to Tabriz. The Akkoyunlu builtmany mosques, madrasas, caravanserai, hospitals,mausoleums and palaces in Anatolia and Iran, very few ofwhich survive today. This is largely due to the deliberatedestruction of Akkoyunlu structures by the Safavids.

Diyarbak›r Under the Akkoyunlu

� Gazi (Seman)KöflküSouth of the city, overlookingthe Tigris ValleyThis early 16th-centuryAkkoyunlu ‘köşk’ or summermansion was built for a bey, andwas later used by theSemanoğulları. The buildingserved as a quarantine during anoutbreak of typhoid and cholerain the 17th and 18th century.When Mustafa Kemal Atatürkestablished his post atDiyarbakır in 1917 and tookcommand of the XVIth Corps ofthe 2nd Army, he lived in thebuilding, which had been rentedfrom the family, for 11 months.Today, it has been converted intoa museum with a restaurant andrustic outdoor café nearby.

Yenikap› Sokak, Bal›kç›larbafl›Known officially as SheikhMutahhar Mosque, the mosque ismore commonly referred to bythe locals as Sheikh MatarMosque. An inscription on theminaret tells us that it was builtin 1500 by the Akkoyunlu SultanKasım. The minaret is one of themost striking structures inDiyarbakır: the trunk is madefrom black and white stones andis bare of inscriptions. Whileother minarets in the city havesquare trunks, the pedestal iscompletely unique. The pillarsthat support the minaret are saidto represent the four schools(mazhab) of Islamic thoughtwhile the trunk stands for Islam

itself. The mosque is constructedfrom alternating bands of blackand white stone.

An Akkoyunlu miniaturedepicting a man and his hawk.

Sheikh Mutahhar (Dört Ayakl›Minare) Mosque �



The Ottoman PeriodDiyâr-ı Bekr became a ‘beylerbeylik’ or province of the OttomanEmpire in 1515. In the 17th century, the province covered 71,272square kilometers, with its capital at Amid (Diyarbakır). The provincewas divided into 20 ‘sancak’ or districts. In 1826, the province wasdivided into the two new regions of Diyarbekr and Elaziz. The 500years of Ottoman dominion had a profound impact on the city’sarchitecture, as many structures were built, restored or expanded duringthis time. During World War I, Diyarbakır was plagued by diseases,fires and intense poverty. Huge architectural, social, cultural andeconomic advances were made after the formation of the Republic. Thenew city was established, and roads, hospitals, schools and modernstructures were built. The city grew and developed, and became a majorhub connected to the rest of the country by new roads.

Deliller (Hüsrev Pasha) Inn �Near the Mardin GateBuilt in 1527 by the provincial governor Hüsrev Pasha together withthe mosque and madrasa behind it, the inn is known as the DelillerHanı (Inn of the Guides) as guides who took pilgrims on the hajjstayed at the inn. The stables are located in the single-story sectionfacing the street. A row of shops stands in front. The remainder of theinn is two stories tall. Surrounded by geometric designs and niches,the impressive entrance leads to an ablution fountain, past loggiaenclosing the central courtyard, and finally to the inn rooms. The innhas been restored and currently functions as a hotel.

Ottoman coffeepots fromthe Diyarbakır Museum

Behram PashaMosqueZiya GökalpBuilt between 1564 and 1572 bythe provincial governor BehramPasha, the domed, ashlarmosque is attributed to thefamous architect Mimar Sinan.The narthex, together with theablution fountain before it, hasthe look of a palatial entrance.



MuseumsDiyarbak›r ArcheologyMuseumCahit S›tk› Taranc›Museum (Museum ofCulture)Ziya Gökalp Museum

Mosques (Camii)Diyarbak›r Grand (Ulu)MosqueSafa (Parl›/Palo) MosqueNebi (Peygamber)Mosque‹skender Pasha MosqueMelik Ahmet PashaMosqueFatih Pasha (Kurflunlu)MosqueLala Bey MosqueSilvan Grand (Ulu orSelahaddin-i Eyyüb-iMeyyafarikin) Mosque

Mausoleums (Türbe)The Mausoleum of‹skender Pasha The Mausoleum ofÖzdemiro¤lu HasanPashaThe Mausoleum ofSheikh Abdülcelil The Mausoleum ofSultan fiüca The Mausoleum ofSheikh Yusuf Hemedani

MadrasasMuslihiddin LariMadrasaZinciriye MadrasaMesudiye MadrasaAli Pasha Madrasa

Churches (Kilise)The Church of the VirginMary (Meryem Ana) Surp Giragos ArmenianChurch

Mar Petyun ChaldeanCatholic Church Mar Thoma Church

Inns (Han)Hasan Pasha Inn Yeni InnÇifte InnÇeper Inn

BridgesTigris (On Gözlü) BridgeDevegeçidi BridgeHaburman Bridge

Other SightsSüleyman A¤a CavesAssyrian FortressZülkifil MountainDakyanus RuinsHevsel Gardens

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Diyarbak›rArcheologyMuseumSelahattin Yaz›c›o¤lu Caddesi,Central Diyarbak›rDiyarbakır’s first museumopened in 1934 in the ZinciriyeMadrasa attached to the GrandMosque, but moved to thecurrent building in 1985.Ethnographic works and coinsdiscovered in excavations in andaround Diyarbakır are displayedchronologically at the museum.

Cahit S›tk›Taranc› Museum Taranc› Sokak, Cami-i KebirThis classic Diyarbakır housewas built in 1733. The poet CahitSıtkı Tarancı was born here in1910 and spent his childhood inthis house. The museum’s

collection consists of Tarancı’spersonal belongings,correspondence, library, familyphotographs and ethnographicworks from the region.

Ziya GökalpMuseumGökalp Sokak, Melik AhmetCaddesiThe sociologist and writer ZiyaGökalp was born in 1876 in this

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Cahit S›tk› Taranc› (1910-1956)Cahit S›tk› Taranc› is considered one of Turkey’s mostimportant modern poets. He wrote poignant poems insyllabic meter, mainly on profound subjects such asdeath, loneliness, longing and love. Born in Diyarbak›r,the poet lived in this house on Cami-i Kebir street untilhe finished middle school. After graduating from the

Galatasaray Lycee inIstanbul, he went to Paristo study at the SciencePolitique. He returned toTurkey at the outbreak ofthe Second World War andworked as a translator. Thehouse where he was bornand lived in as a child wasconverted into a museumin 1973.Built in 1733, the house is a classic example of traditional

Diyarbakır residental architecture.

Roman bottles from the museumcollection

Cahit Sıtkı Tarancı Museum

Ziya Gökalp Museum


131S I G T S E E I N G I N D I Y A R B A K I R

two-story basalt house built in1806. The museum opened in1956 and displays a collection ofZiya Gökalp’s personalpossessions and documents.

Safa(Parl›/Palo)MosqueMelik Ahmet Caddesi, west ofthe Grand MosqueWith its unusual layout,decorative stonework andceramic tiles, this is one ofDiyarbakır’s most importantstructures. The mosque isbuilt entirely from black andwhite ashlar. The minaretstands to the right of themosque and is covered fromits base to its spire in Kuficinscriptions and a widevariety of decorative

stonework. One of themosque’s most strikingfeatures is its central dome.The Islamic scholarMuslihiddin Lari is buried inthe mosque’s cemetery.

Nebi(Peygamber)MosqueAt the junction of Gazi Caddesiand ‹nönü Caddesi, nearDa¤kap› This single-domed mosque builtfrom black and white ashlardates from the Akkoyunluperiod. The dome stands on sixfeet, and the interior is coveredwith beautiful ceramic tiles. TheOttomans made various additionsto the mosque, and the squareminaret was built in 1530 by abutcher named Hacı Hüseyin.

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Diyarbak›r GrandMosqueGazi CaddesiThe mosque was built in 639 during thecaliphate of Umar after the city wasconquered by Muslim Arabs. Built over theremains of the Mar Thoma church, this is theoldest known mosque in Anatolia, and bearsa striking similarity to the Umayyad GrandMosque in Damascus. The mosque has beenrestored and added to at various times overthe years. The complex consists of wings tobe used by different Islamic sects (one forthe Hanafi, one for the Shafii) plus theMesudiye and Zinciriye madrasas. Althoughdating from different eras, theornamentation, reliefs and inscriptions onthe highly decorated walls of the courtyardare in perfect artistic harmony.

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Safa (Parlı) Mosque



Iskender PashaMosque‹skender PaflaThis Ottoman mosque was builtin 1551 by the provincialgovernor of Diyarbakır, İskenderPasha. Dating from the Sinanperiod, the building has theinverted-T plan frequently seenin early Ottoman mosques, andshows local architecturalinfluences.

Melik AhmetPasha MosqueMelik Ahmet CaddesiLocated near the Urfa Gate, thismosque was built from 1587-1591 by Melik Ahmet Pasha.Some sources attribute it to thefamous architect Mimar Sinan.The lower level features shopsand storage areas. Thenoteworthy mosque boastsstriking ceramic tiling anddecorations on its minaret.

Fatih Pasha(Kurflunlu)MosqueIn the east of the cityThe earliest Ottoman structure inDiyarbakır was built from 1516-1520 by the city’s first Ottomangovernor, Bıyıklı Mehmet Pasha.The mosque is constructed fromblack and white ashlar.Highlights include the ceramictiles on the interior walls and thebeautifully ornamented mihraband minbar.

Lala BeyMosqueDörtler Sokak, Lala BeyThe mosque is thought to havebeen built in the 15th centuryby Lala Kasım, the bey of Eğil.The ashlar, single-domedmosque has been poorlyrestored, but the narthex andminaret remain relatively wellpreserved. The façade isdecorated with colored stones.The mausoleum of Lala Bey islocated in the northeasterncorner of the mosque.

Silvan Grand MosqueCami, Silvan This Artukid mosque in Silvanwas built in 1157 by the rulerof Mardin, Nadjm ed-Din Alpi.When the city fell to theAyyubid leader Salah al-DinYusuf ibn Ayyub (known asSaladin in the West) in 1185, itbecame associated with hisname. The mosque is anexample of the plan developedby the Great Seljuks in Iranianmosques. The dome of themihrab is conical, and themosque features columncapitals from a Byzantinebasilica.

TheMausoleum ofIskender Pasha East of ‹skender PashaMosqueThe mausoleum is thought tohave been built in 1551 by thegovernor of Diyarbakır,İskender Pasha, together withhis children. The mausoleumhas two sections: the northernend features an ornamentedmihrab, cusped arch windowsand a single-domed masjidwhile the mausoleum itself isto the south. The entirestructure was constructed frombands of black and whitestone, and is considered animportant example of ‘türbe’architecture.

TheMausoleum ofÖzdemiro¤luHasan PashaWest of Fatih Pasha MosqueThis classic 16th-centuryOttoman mausoleum was builtin 1585 in the name ofÖzdemiroğlu Osman Pasha,the governor of Diyarbakırfrom 1571-1575.

TheMausoleum ofSheikhAbdülcelil The courtyard of Sheikh SafaMosque, Central Diyarbak›r The undated mausoleum islocated to the east of themosque. Constructed fromashlar, the mausoleum has anoctagonal central section and apyramidal brick roof with adomed interior and channeledexterior.

TheMausoleum ofSultan fiüca Opposite the Deliller Inn,Mardin GateAlthough the precise date ofconstruction is not known, aninscription belonging to SultanŞüca on the fountainimmediately in front of themausoleum helps us to date itto around 1208-1209.

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İskender Pasha Mosque

The Mausoleum of Sultan Şüca



TheMausoleum ofSheikh YusufHemedani AlicanThe undated ashlar and rubblemausoleum of Sheikh YusufHemedani is in the northwesterncorner of the courtyard of theeponymous mosque.

MuslihiddinLari MadrasaSouth of Safa Mosque, in themosque courtyardThought to date from the firsthalf of the 14th century, thesingle story madrasa is alsoknown as the Sheikh SafaMadrasa. The majority of the

building is made of cut stone,although bricks wereoccasionally used in the vaultedroof.

ZinciriyeMadrasaWest of the Grand MosqueOfficially known as theSincariye Madrasa, the madrasawas built by the architect EbuDirhem in 1198. The buildingserved as a shelter for the poorduring World War I and wasconverted into the ArcheologyMuseum in 1934. The museumlater moved to its currentpremises.

MesudiyeMadrasaNorth of the Grand MosqueDiyarbakır’s oldest majormadrasa was built in 1198 during

the reign of the Artukid rulerKutb al-Din Sokman, and isconsidered the first university inAnatolia. The revolving stonecolumns on either side of themihrab are able to identify anycollapse or slide in the building.

Ali PashaMadrasaBetween the Mardin and Urfagates, AlipaflaThis single story mixed ashlarand brick madrasa was builtfrom 1543 to 1547 by HadımAli Pasha, a governor of

Diyarbakır. The madrasa isattributed by some to MimarSinan.

The Church of the VirginMary (MeryemAna) AlipaflaThis Syriac Orthodox churchremains in use to this day. TheByzantine pulpit and Roman-style door are worth notice. Anumber of saints are buried inthe church. The original layouthas been altered as a result ofnumerous restorations. The latestrestoration was conducted byMafiryan İshak in the 18thcentury during the patriarchate of

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Zinciriye Madrasa

Mesudiye Madrasa

The Church of the Virgin Mary



Gorgis.

Surp GiragosArmenian Church Göçmen Sokak, ÖzdemirWritten sources and inscriptionsin the church suggest that it wasbuilt between 1515 and 1518.The church burned to the groundin 1880 and was rebuilt in thesame spot three years later in1883. An imposing, five-storyGothic bell tower wasdemolished in 1916. The largechurch has five naves, five apses,and baptisteries on either side ofthe apses.

Mar PetyunChaldeanCatholic Church fieftali Sokak, Özdemir Built in the 17th century, thechurch has three naves and five

apses. The church holds monthlymasses, making it the secondchurch in Diyarbakır in usetoday.

Mar Thoma

ChurchFormerly on the site of theGrand MosqueAlso known as the church ofSaint Thomas, the structure wasoriginally a pre-Christian pagantemple. The precise date ofconstruction is not known.Various additions were made tothe temple to convert it into achurch. The church was replacedby a mosque when the regionwas conquered by the Islamic

armies in 639.

Hasan PashaInn Gazi Caddesi, east of theGrand MosqueThe two-story inn was built in1573 by the third Ottomangovernor, Vezirzade HasanPasha. A domed, columnedablution fountain stands in thecenter of the courtyard. Thestriking western façade of theinn resembles an invertediwan.

Yeni InnBehind the Zinciriye Madrasa,south of the Grand MosqueThe two-story, rubble inn wasbuilt from 1788-1789 by agentleman named Seyyid HacıAbdullah. A staircase to theleft of the entrance leads to thesecond floor. The entrance hasa pointed arch opening ontothe courtyard. The inn issurrounded on all four sides byloggia.

Çifte InnSouth of the Hasan Pasha Inn,near the Mardin GateStylistically, this inn wouldseem to date from the 16thcentury. The low-archedcolonnaded loggia that enclosethree sides of the courtyardcontinue on the second floor.

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Surp Giragos Church

Hasan Pasha Inn

Mar Petyun Church



Çeper InnOn the Diyarbak›r-Bingöl road,near the village of BiryasThe inn is similar in style tothose constructed in Anatolia inthe 16th century, with a largeentrance, courtyard and cellslining the inner courtyard.

Tigris (OnGözlü) BridgeBelow the Atatürk Köflk, 3 kmsouth of the cityThe ashlar bridge over the Tigrisis also known as the On Gözlü(Ten-Eyed) Bridge after its tenelegant arches. According to aninscription on the bridge, it wasbuilt in the 8th century anddemolished during the siege ofthe city by the ByzantineEmperor John I Tzimisces. Itwas rebuilt by an architectnamed Ubeyd oğlu Yusuf duringthe Marwanid era. Restored atvarious times throughout history,the bridge has lost its originalform.

DevegeçidiBridgeSpanning the DevegeçidiStream, 20 km north ofDiyarbak›rThe bridge has seven pointed

arches. The 262nd verse of theSura Al Bakara of the Koran isinscribed on the bridge. Thebridge also has two otherinscriptions, which tell us that itwas built in 1218 by the architectCafer İbn Mahmud for theArtukid leader al-Malik al-SalihMahmud.

HaburmanBridgeNear the village of Haburman inthe Çermik districtThis three-arched bridgespanning the Sinek Stream wasbuilt in 1179. The central arch islarge and pointed, while the twoouter arches are smaller andmore rounded.

Süleyman A¤aCavesThe confluence of the Aksu andGöksu streams in the Ç›nardistrictThis settlement is known to dateback 2000 years. Entrances werecarved into the rock, accessingthe large, room-like caves.

AssyrianFortressOn the sloping banks of theTigris, E¤ilThe fortress was carved out of arocky outcrop on the hillside.

Remains of an Assyriancemetery can be seen in the partof the fortress on the banks ofthe Tigris.

ZülkifilMountainThe ruins of the church of theVirgin Mary and Ezekiel’s postare located on the mountain. Thesite is an important place ofpilgrimage for Muslims andChristians alike, and is especiallycrowded on Thursdays andFridays.

DakyanusRuinsThe ruins are perched on a 1110-meter summit to the west of Liceon the Diyarbakır-Lice road. The settlement is thought to datefrom Seleucid or Roman times.Uncovered structures include alarge wall thought to be part ofDakyanus’ palace, arches and anumber of paving stones.

HevselGardens A symbol of Diyarbakır, thegardens were formed from siltcarried by the Tigris River,located to the southeast of thecity. A variety of fruit trees andsummer and winter vegetablesare grown here. Covering over900 acres, the Hevsel Gardenshave fulfilled the city’s fruit andvegetable needs for thousands ofyears. Today, the gardens arealso a popular picnic site.

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Tigris (On Gözlü) Bridge

Remains of an Assyrian cemetery



Diyarbak›r CultureFolk dances andmusicThe most popular local folk dance is the‘halay’, an energetic, joyful danceperformed holding hands in a circle. Allthe local folk dances reflect the region’slifestyle and social and culturaltraditions. Diyarbakır, Şanlıurfa andElazığ music are all heavily influencedby each other. In addition to anonymousfolk songs, songs and ghazals by knowncomposers and traditional Sufi musicare also performed in the region. Theseare usually accompanied by ‘ney’ (reedflute), nakkare (a small kettledrum), andstringed instruments such as the‘tambur’ and ‘rebap’. Outdoorperformances are accompanied by‘davul’ (drums) and ‘zurna’ (a shrillreed pipe).

HandcraftsDiyarbakır’s long tradition of finejewelry is maintained by anumber of jewelry shops locatedin the restored KuyumcularÇarşısı (Jewelers’ Bazaar) andthe older bazaar of the samename next door. The city’s fewremaining coppersmiths continueto produce copper ewers, traysand pitchers. Hand woven kilimsand carpets are stillmanufactured in the region’svillages. Diyarbakır is renownedfor its woven bracelets, silver-inlaid bath pattens, and engravedwooden chests of drawers.

Traditional dressSince the 18th-century, the women of Diyarbakır have traditionallyworn a headdress known as a ‘kofi’, which consists of a bowl-shaped‘tar’ made of tin and wood worn as a frame under their clothing. Ruralwomen wear flower-patterned fustian dresses known as ‘entari’.Traditional accessories include turbans, nose rings, chokers, anklets,earrings, lovelocks, and silver ‘tepelik’ headdresses.

Bardakç›l›kPottery has been made inDiyarbakır since Neolithic times.Locally, earthenware jugs areknown as ‘bardak’, from whichthe term ‘bardakcılık’ or potteryis derived. Every master potteremploys a team that consists ofan overseer, potter, glazer andapprentice. Red soil, silt andclay from the banks of the Tigrisis mixed with salt to form theclay.

A silver ‘tepelik’ headdress

Hennaed hands


137D I Y A R B A K I R C U L T U R E

The Bo¤azkere GrapeBo¤azkere is a grape variety thatgrows in the Diyarbak›r region and isused in making Turkish red wines.Diyarbak›r offers the ideal climateand soil conditions for cultivatingBo¤azkere grapes, which flourish onthe gravelly, chalky soil of thealluvial plains between the Tigrisand the Euphrates. Bo¤azkeregrapes are small and dark, withthick skins and high tannin levels;indeed, the name refers to its bitter,astringent flavor.

WinesBoğazkere is usually blended withÖküzgözü (most often one part Boğazkereto two parts Öküzgözü), producing a highquality, balanced red wine.Boğazkere-Öküzgözü blends include:Çankaya Boğazkere (made from grapesfrom the Elazığ-Diyarbakır region),Kavaklıdere Boğazkere (made fromgrapes from the Diyarbakır region)Doluca Özel Kav, Kavaklıdere SelectionKırmızı, Turasan Öküzgözü-Boğazkere,Pamukkale Diamond (Öküzgözü-Boğazkere) and Terra (Öküzgözü-Boğazkere)Mono-varietal wines are also producedfrom Boğazkere grapes. The Kulüp,Turasan and Kocabağ wine producers’mono-varietal Boğazkere wines are dark,purplish red and have high tannin levelswith vanilla, cinnamon and dried plumaromas.



Diyarbak›r CuisineMeat – especially lamb and mutton - plays an important role inDiyarbakır cuisine. Many dishes are spicy or sour, and areprepared with plenty of oil. Pastrami, cured meat, cheese, tomatopaste and pickles are prepared as winter provisions.

SumacSumac is a 2-3 meter tall shrub that grows in Southeastern Anatolia thatproduces a dark red, hairy, lentil-sized fruit. Ground sumac has a puckery,

sour flavor and is the most popular spice inSouthern and Southeastern Anatoliancooking. It features heavily in Diyarbak›rcuisine. Sumac is known to have antisepticproperties, to aid digestion, improveappetite and lower blood sugar. It is alsoused in the textile sector to dye woolfabrics.

Kaburga dolmas› ‘Kaburga dolması’ are stuffed ribsusually made from lamb or the meatof young male goats. The ribs arestuffed with spiced rice, sewn shut,steamed, and then baked in an oven.The cooked meat is served inshredded pieces.

MeftuneThis local Diyarbakır specialty ismade from meat and vegetablesflavored with sumac and garlic.Varieties include zucchini, eggplantand ‘kenger’ (a thistle-like plant)meftune.

Liver kebabOne of the most popular dishes inthe city.

MeatballsDiyarbakır’s many varieties ofmeatball or ‘köfte’ include ‘çiğ köfte’(Turkish steak tartare), ‘içli köfte’(meatballs in a cracked wheat shell),‘Analı Kızlı’ (meatballs made withcracked wheat) and ‘ekşili köfte’(made with egg and lemon sauce).Other popular local dishes are‘duvaklı pilav’ (veiled rice), ‘bulgurpilav’ (cracked wheat pilaf), ‘etliekşili dolma’ (meat dolma cookedwith egg and lemon), ‘zeytinyağlıdolma’ (vegetarian dolma cooked inolive oil), ‘kibe mumbar’ (stuffedintestines), ‘lebeni’ (yoghurt soup)and baba ghanoush.

DessertsBurmalı Kadayıf is the most popular pastry-based dessert inDiyarbakır. The ‘kadayıf’ batter is poured onto a hot plate called a‘sac’ and twisted into long strands. Burmalı Kadayıf has been made inDiyarbakır and Bingöl since the 18th century. Other local dessertsinclude ‘nuriye’ (made from pastry and syrup), ‘zingil’, ‘revani’ (a cakesoaked in syrup), ‘halbur hurma’ and ‘künefe’.

Kaburga dolması

Meat pilaf Roast meat

Burma kadayıf The ‘tel kadayıf’ strands arecooked on a copper hot plate.


139D I Y A R B A K I R C U I S I N E

A shop selling local spices anddried fruit and nuts (left).Beautiful local fabrics (above).The city also boasts manymodern shopping centers(right).

ShoppingShops selling local products canbe found near the city’s historicsights. The jewelers’ bazaarcarries woven bracelets, chokers,silver inlaid bath pattens andchests of drawers. The bazaarsand shops near the Hasan PashaInn or the Grand Mosque sellkilims and carpets woven in theregion’s villages. Local silkfabrics, handkerchiefs, and handpainted or printed fabrics aresold at the Yanık Çarşı.

Diyarbak›r WatermelonsDiyarbakır’s large and delicious watermelonsare renowned throughout the world and havebecome a veritable symbol of the city. Thewatermelons are cultivated on the gravelly,sandy soil along the banks of the Tigris usinglocal methods. When the waters of the Tigrisrecede around April and May, large hollowsknown as ‘watermelon wells’ form in theriverbed. These hollows are filled with sheep,goat and pigeon droppings, which the localscall ‘barn fertilizer’. The watermelons owetheir monumental size to the sheep and goatmanure, and their flavor to the pigeondroppings.

Watermelons on theTigrisIn the past, festivities were held in thewatermelon fields on the banks of the Tigristo mark the watermelon harvest.Traditionally, the first harvested watermelonwould be cut in half, hollowed out and filledwith ashes. Paraffin was then poured overthe ashes, and set alight. The flamingwatermelon would be launched onto thewaters of the Tigris, followed by a wholeflotilla of burning watermelons. The revelstraditionally included a performance of the‘Çayda Çıra’ folk dance.

Watermelon FestivalIn 1966, an annual watermelon festival wasinaugurated to help bolster waning interest

in the traditions surrounding Diyarbakır’swatermelons. The ‘Diyarbakır Watermelon Festival’has attracted visitors to the city and helped boost itseconomy.

Diyarbakırwatermelons weigharound 50 kilos. Agiant watermelon

competition is heldevery year.


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Diyarbakır Grand Mosque - guneydogumirasi.org · 108 A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA Diyarbakır Grand Mosque Diyarbakiring 11/15/07 8:08 PM Page 108