D1.1 Needs, expectations and barriers from children ...images.ozongo.com/xpress/kidsize/resources/image/D1.1_Needs_v15... · GA no.: 606091 2 of 100 Deliverable D1.1 Table of Contents

SEVENTH FRAMEWORK PROGRAMME

FP7-SME-2013

Grant Agreement No.: 606091

Project Acronym: Kidsize

Project Title: Development of a new extended product-service to overcome size assignment

and fitting barriers for children fashion on-line market addressing customer needs

Project co-funded by the European Commission within the Seventh Framework Programme

DATES Due date of deliverable: 31st

January 2014

WP WP1 – Characterization of childrenswear shopping and fitting processes for Kidsize

user requirements

DISSEMINATION LEVEL

PU Public X

NAME ORGANIZATION DATE

AUTHORS Begoña Mateo/Paola Piqueras/ Raquel Marzo IBV 14/02/14

D1.1

Needs, expectations and barriers from children, consumers,

manufacturers and retailers

Kidsize project FP7-SME-2013 GA no. 606091

GA no.: 606091 2 of 100 Deliverable D1.1

Table of Contents

EXECUTIVE SUMMARY 3

INTRODUCTION 4

T1.1 Characterization of childrenswear shopping experience and fitting assessment from buyers’

point of view 6

1. Introduction 6

2. Methodology 6

2.1. Techniques and participants sample 7

3. Results 12

3.1. Web blog analysis 12

3.2. Study with parents 14

3.3. Study with retailers 36

T1.2 characterization of childrenswear e-commerce 56

1. Introduction 56

2. Methodology 56

2.1. Data about usage patterns in existing European e-commerce platforms 56

2.2. Survey to e-commerce managers 56

3. Results 58

3.1. Data about usage patterns in existing European e-commerce platforms 58

3.2. Survey to e-commerce managers 61

4. Conclusions 70

T1.3. Characterization of the use of mannequins and scalabilities for patterning and sizing garments

in childrenswear industry 72

1. Introduction 72

2. Methodology 73

2.1. Workshops at the SMEs’ facilities – patterning and fitting 73

2.2. SMEs’ assessment of virtual try-on approach 73

2.3. Online survey to manufacturers of childrenswear aimed at pattern makers 74

3. Results 75

3.1. Workshops at the SMEs’ facilities – patterning and fitting 75

3.2. SMEs’ assessment of virtual try-on approach 76

3.3. Online survey to manufacturers of childrenswear aimed at pattern makers 79

4. Conclusions 99



EXECUTIVE SUMMARY

The information gathered into this Deliverable helped us to characterize the needs, expectations

and barriers of buyers, retailers and manufacturers of childrenswear, and the potential usefulness

that Kidsize might bring to them.

Buyers (parents and relatives)

The main barrier identified across this study was that it is very complicated to try garments on to

children, regardless the age. Moreover, sizes do not correspond to the age of children, and each

brand has its own sizing system. On online purchases, parents also mention as a barrier the cost it

has in terms of money and time.

Parents consider that Kidsize would be extremely useful because it will facilitate the purchase at

both physical and online stores.

Brick-and-mortar retailers

Retailers say that the most requested information by parents is related to size and fitting. Most of

the retailers are guided by the size-age in order to recommend the right size.

Retailers consider that Kidsize tool is more useful for selling online, however, for physical stores,

the most useful situations would be for relatives or friends of the children, or for parents that go

to the store without children.

For them, the most interesting feature of Kidsize would be to provide fitting information since

fitting problems are the main cause for returns.

Online retailers (e-commerce)

Regarding e-commerces, currently the companies have to upload one or two images of garments

for their visualization in the e-commerce sites, and would be able to provide two or more images

of each garment type on a flat surface for Kidsize, however, the companies would prefer a 3D

view of the garment worn.

Online retailers consider Kidsize useful for selling childrenswear online, and expect it to solve the

returns du to fitting problems in online shopping.

Manufacturers

Regarding the childrenswear pattern makers, most of the companies use physical commercial

mannequins and children to verify the fitting of their garments. The physical mannequins used by

the manufacturers surveyed are: MNQ 0-12 from ASEPRI; AlvaForm from Alvanon; Cléo and

Stockman.

The most common sizes used in fit verification are size 6 months, 3 months, 12 months, 8 years, 4

years, 12 years. Most of the manufacturers would not have problems to introduce the

information of their children/mannequin measurements into the Kidsize system.

All manufacturers find it interesting to have Kidsize supporting the size selection and fitting

prediction at the point of sale.



INTRODUCTION

The aim of this deliverable is to extract the needs, expectations and barriers of buyers, retailers

and manufacturers regarding the Kidsize. To this end, the following tasks have been conducted.

Task 1.1 Characterization of childrenswear shopping experience and fitting assessment from

buyers’ point of view in e-commerce and physical stores

The objective of this task was to understand the childrenswear shopping experience, to design

the best way to assist buyers (parents and children) in size selection.

In this task, IBV applied user-driven innovation methods. This methodology consists of a set of

tools and techniques from social research, that facilitate the participation of people (users and

professionals) in all phases of the development process in order to provide value-added. Within

this methodology, the following techniques have been applied:

• A web blog analysis (netnographic analysis and benchmarking) of the most common

websites of childrenswear

• Three focus groups with Spanish parents of children between 0 and 12 years old: 0-3 years,

3-9 years, and 9-12 years

• Nine interviews with Spanish retailers that sell clothes for babies (between 0 to 3 years old)

or for children (from 3 to 12 years old) in physical stores (both multi brand store and brand

store), having or not online store

• An online survey to 165 parents and 43 retailers of the three target countries (Spain, France

and Finland), with the help of the project associations (CFE, ASEPRI, NovaCHILD and Finatex)

Task 1.2 Characterization of childrenswear e-commerce

The objective of this task was to understand the childrenswear e-commerce in order to facilitate

the integration of the new tools to be developed in the project. In order to do so, two techniques

have been applied:

• A study of usage patterns in existing European e-commerce platforms has been carried

out by OZONGO, from which an integration model between Kidsize tool and an e-

commerce platform has been developed.

• An online survey to 15 e-commerce managers working in childrenswear companies of the

three target countries (Spain, France and Finland) has been prepared by IBV with the help

of ISRI and OZONGO, and distributed with the help of the project associations (CFE,

ASEPRI, NovaCHILD and Finatex).

Task 1.3 Characterization of the use of mannequins and scalabilities for patterning and sizing

garments in SME from childrenswear industry

The objective of this task was to understand the childrenswear patterning, fitting and sizing

processes in order to better define multi-fitting algorithms, the visualization tool and the

manufacturer interface according to SMEs processes. In order to do so, the following techniques

have been applied:

• An in-situ analysis of the daily designers and pattern makers’ work has been performed by

IBV by means of workshops at the project’s SMEs facilities. Moreover, ISRI analyzed the

problem from the virtual try-on perspective.



• An online survey to 30 patternmakers of childrenswear companies was prepared by IBV

and distributed by SME associations (CFE, ASEPRI, NovaCHILD and Finatex).

This report is structured according to these tasks, and explains the above mentioned techniques,

as well as the results obtained, and the conclusions reached, regarding the needs, expectations

and barriers of buyers, retailers and manufacturers.



T1.1 Characterization of childrenswear shopping experience and

fitting assessment from buyers’ point of view

1. Introduction

The objective of this task is to understand the childrenswear shopping experience for designing

the best way to assist buyers (parents and children) in size selection.

2. Methodology

People Driven Innovation methodology was applied to achieve the objectives of this deliverable.

This methodology consists of a set of tools and techniques from social research, that facilitate the

participation of people (users and professionals) in all phases of the development process in order

to provide value-added.

The techniques have been selected and applied according to their fitting to the objectives and the

different profiles considered: parent and retailers. The distribution of techniques used according

to the user profile is shown on Figure 1:

Figure 1. Techniques distribution according to the user profiles.

A common structure has been defined to plan and carry out the different techniques. The

following steps have been followed (Figure 2).



Figure 2. Steps followed in each technique.

Step 1. Techniques’ planning:

In this step, the following materials have been developed:

• Abstract of the Kidsize project with the main goals of this study.

• Work plan of the tests: objectives, methodologies, resources and schedule.

• Key questions to propose to the participants.

• Protocols and procedures for applying the techniques.

• Tools for data register and results evaluation.

Step 2. Participants selection:

In this step, the following participants’ profile has been chosen:

• Parents of children between 0 and 12 years who buy clothes for them.

• Retailers who sell clothes for babies (between 0 to 3 years old) or for children (from 3 to

12 years old) in physical stores.

Step 3. Techniques development

This step consists of the development of the techniques. The following section (Techniques and

participants sample) explains each technique and the participants’ sample used.

Step 4. Data analysis

In this step, data analysis has been performed by a systematic and verifiable way. An

interpretative analysis of the content has been performed, by which the participants' responses

are summarized creating descriptions.

2.1. Techniques and participants sample

Next, the five different techniques applied are described.

WEB BLOG ANALYSIS

Netnographic analysis

Netnography is the branch of sociology that deals with the analysis of the behavior of individuals

in internet as a free context. The free opinion of individuals in Internet allows the researcher to

access data from thousands of individuals acting freely and spontaneously, representing an

exponential increase over analysis techniques such as focus groups or ethnography itself. It also

allows the researcher to keep track of these interactions.

Techniques Planning

Participants Selection

Techniques Development

Data Analysis



The term was coined “netnography” at the late nineties by R. V. Kozinets, and used as a research

method in the early years of the century.

Some forums related to childrenswear were consulted by IBV in order to identify:

• Current e-commerce websites addressed to childrenswear

• Shoppers’ opinions about the current e-commerce websites and tools for size selection

Benchmarking

Benchmarking is a systematic and continuous process to evaluate products, services and work

processes of organizations recognized as the best practice, the toughest competitors1.

In this project, current e-commerce websites addressed to childrenswear and currents tools for

size selection have been evaluated by IBV. These websites and tools have been selected in the

netnographic analysis for being the most mentioned in the consulted forums.

An analysis of each tool has been performed in order to obtain the most common information

provided to parents.

FOCUS GROUP

A focus group can be defined as a carefully planned discussion designed to obtain qualitative

information about a defined area of interest in a permissive atmosphere, not directive. The

discussion is relaxed, comfortable and often successful for participants because they share their

ideas (Krueger, 19912).

IBV carried out three focus groups with Spanish parents of children between 0 and 12 years old.

The goals of these groups were to identify the current problems in childrenswear shopping

(specifically regarding size selection), success factors in innovative shopping experiences and

needs, expectations and barriers about Kidsize system.

In order to obtain the requirements of Kidsize system, parents were asked about the different

parts of the tool showing different images Figure 3, Figure 4).

Figure 3. Steps of the Kidsize tool for babies

1 Bogan, C. E., & English, M. J. (1994), Benchmarking for best practices: Winning through innovative adaptation.]

New York, NY: McGraw-Hill. 2 Krueger, Richard A. (1991), El grupo de discusión: guía práctica para la investigación aplicada. Madrid,

Pirámide.



Figure 4. Steps of the Kidsize for children)

As it can be observed the process is different for babies and children. For babies, parents have to

measure their baby and introduce the Measurements in the tool. For children, parents have to

take a photo to their child and the tool generates a 3D model.

The main parts of Kidsize tool are:

- Introduction of Measurements for babies or Image captures for children

- Fitting Visualization

Table 1 shows the participants sample used in this technique.

Table 1. Users sample of the focus groups.

Variables GROUP 1 GROUP 2 GROUP 3

Gender 10 women, 1 man 8 women 7 women, 1 man

Children’s age Between 0 and 3 years old Between 3 and 9 years old Between 9 and 12 years old

Other To be the person who is responsible for buying clothes

INTERVIEW

Interview corresponds to a “face to face” meeting that takes place between an interviewer and an

informant aimed at obtaining information about a product/service, process or specific experience

(Sanchez Martín, 20033). An interview does not refer to an informal discussion of everyday life,

but to a formal conversation with one specific goal: the interview should have an intention,

objectives, structure (more or less formal) and a sequence of time/action.

IBV carried out nine interviews with Spanish retailers who sell clothes for babies (between 0 to 3

years old) or for children (from 3 to 12 years old) in physical stores. The Spanish retailers were

provided by ASEPRI. The goals of these interviews were to identify the current problems in

retailing process (especially regarding size recommendation), expectations concerning new tools

for supporting the retailing process and possible barriers for Kidsize system.

3 Sánchez Martín, M.E. (2003). La entrevista. Técnica de recogida de datos en el análisis de una situación social.

Madrid: Publicaciones de la Universidad, Complutense de Madrid.



ONLINE SURVEY

A survey is an investigation conducted on a users’ sample representative of a wider group, using

standardized interrogation procedures with the aim of obtaining quantitative measurements of a

variety of objective and subjective characteristics of the population (Lesley Andres, 20124).

In this study, IBV carried out an online survey with 165 parents and 43 retailers of three countries

(Spain, France and Finland) in order to validate the results identified in qualitative techniques

(focus groups and interviews). The sample of retailers was provided by ASEPRI in Spain, by

NovaCHILD in France, by Finatex in Finland and by CFE in all countries. The survey in France was

carried out by NovaCHILD, who visited physical stores.

Description of parents’ sample

The next figure shows the characteristics of the sample of parents. The sample of 165 parents is

divided into two groups:

• 57 parents of babies (age between 0 and 3 years old)

• 108 parents of children (age between 3 and 12 years old)

In general, all countries are equally represented. Most parents have bought clothes for their

children on an online store.

Figure 5. Sample characterization of parents

Description of retailers’ sample

Next, the descriptive parameters of the retailers’ sample are explained. The sample of 43 retailers

is divided into two groups:

• 24 retailers of baby clothes (clothes for children between 0 and 3 years old)

• 19 retailers of child clothes (clothes for children between 3 and 12 years old)

4 Andres, Lesley (2012). "Designing and Doing Survey Research. London: Sage.



Figure 6 shows the characteristics of the sample of retailers of childrenswear:

Figure 6. Characteristics of sample of retailers of baby clothes

Figure 7 shows the characteristics of the sample of retailers of child clothes:

Figure 7. Characteristics of sample of retailers of child clothes

The graph of the percentage of retailers of child clothes that sell online is not shown because the

100% of retailers of child clothes have the possibility of selling online.

In general, most retailers are from France, the companies where they work have between 50 and

250 employees and sell children’s clothing online.

25%

8%67%

Select your Country

Spain

Finland

France 62%

25%

13%

Specify the size of your

company

Less than 50

employees

Between 50 and

250 employees

More than 250

employees

33%

67%

Has the shop where you work the possibility of selling children's

clothing online?

No

Yes

21%

11%

68%

Select your Country

Spain

Finland

France 58%26%

16%

Specify the size of your company

Less than 50

employees

Between 50 and 250

employees

More than 250

employees



3. Results

3.1. Web blog analysis

The results of the web blog analysis are structured in two main blocks:

• Characterization of current e-commerce websites addressed to childrenswear

• Shoppers’ opinions about the e-commerce websites

3.1.1. Characterization of current e-commerce websites addressed to childrenswear

In this section, tables with descriptions of childrenswear e-commerce websites most mentioned

by parents in forums are presented. For each e-commerce websites, the following items have

been identified:

• URL of the website

• Brief description of the company

• User profile: User profile of the garments offered in the website. If the company has a

classification according to the ages, it is specified in the table.

• Fitting tool: tool provided to clients (normally parents) for selecting the garment size

• Measurements of the body: body measurements related to each garment size provided to

clients for helping in the size selection. If the company provides different measurements

according to one factor, these measurements are specified for each factor value (children

age, kind of garment, etc.).

• Measurements of the garment: measurements of each garment size provided to parents

for helping in the size selection. If the company provides different measurements

according to one factor, these measurements are specified for each factor value (children

age, kind of garment…).

• Acquisition of the measurements: the way that parents have to measure and introduce

the measurements of their child in the website

• Product presentation: garment information provided to parents

• Feedback from shoppers: the way that shoppers have available in the website to share

information of the garment

• Options for fitting problems: e-commerce solutions to solve fitting problems of the

garments



After analyzing eight current e-commerce websites, Table 2 shows the description of the current

e-commerce websites.

Table 2. Description of the current e-commerce websites

User Profile

• All childrenswear e-commerce websites offer garments to children from 2

years old to 12 years old. However, there are online stores that not have

available garments for babies, or for children older than 12 years old.

• There is no common classification of garments according to the children age.

Nevertheless, for babies it seems the most common age range is from 0 to 36

months. For children, the most common age is from 2 to 16 years.

Fitting Tool

• The fitting tool mostly used in the analyzed websites is a guideline with

measurements charts. Normally, parents have to check the size looking at the

measurement chart (knowing the child measurements). With the current

websites, parents cannot see the fitting garment (virtual try-on).

Body

Measurements

• Regarding the body measurements most provided to parents, there are

differences according to the child age:

o The most common baby measurements are: Height, weight

o The most common child measurements are: Height, chest girth, hip

girth, waist girth. Arm length is shown in some measurement charts too.

• Besides the age, some websites provide different body measurements

according to the garment kind. Garments are divided into upper garments

(tops, shirts, blouses…) or bottom garment (dresses, short, Bermudas…).

o The most common body measurement for upper garments is: chest girth

(in some websites, arm length is provided)

o The most common body measurements for bottom garments are:

height, weight, waist girth

Garment

Measurements • Some websites provide the length of the garment.

Acquisition of

measurements

• In all websites, parents have to measure their child manually. Some

websites offer measurement tips to parents.

Product

presentation

• The most common garment information provided by e-commerce is:

o Garment pictures

o Size (ages)

o Price

Feedback from

shoppers

• Some websites let parents share information of the garment by social

networks (especially Facebook).

Options for

fitting problems • Some companies offer services to guarantee the best fit.

3.1.2. Shoppers’ opinions about the e-commerce websites

The next table shows the current barriers and strengths of the eight analyzed current e-commerce

websites. These barriers and strengths are obtained from the analysis of the selected forums,.



Table 3. Current barriers and strengths in childrenswear e-commerce

BARRIERS STRENGTHS

• Garment fitting

• Variety of sizes depending on the brand

• Difficulty to select the size

• Every size is not available in the websites

• Difficulty to return the clothes

• Shipping costs

• Long delivery times

• Brief description of the garment (surprises in

the quality, looseness…)

• Pictures don't show the quality of the garment

(fabric, finish)

• Not serious service

• In case the webpage has a section for helping

in size selection, sometimes it is difficult to

find the section

• Affordable price

• Adaptable sizing for everybody

• Standardized sizing

• Section with everything that shoppers need

to keep in mind to choose the right size

• Section with advices about how to buy

• Detailed description of the garment

(material, finish...)

• Images correspond with reality (quality)

• Pictures with children models

• Short delivery times

• Facility to return the cloth

• Free/reduced shipping costs

• Catalog easy to see

• Variety of offer

• Agile and intuitive menus to select clothes

• Advices for selecting fabrics and colors

• Personal Shopper that helps you select

accessories

• Possibility to choose garments by style

(beach, grunge, etc...)

As can be observed, the main barriers from buyers’ point of view in e-commerce are:

• The garment fitting for children

• There is variety of sizes depending on the brand. There is not a common standard for

children sizes

• Parent have difficulty to select the garment size more adequate for their children

The main success factors from buyers’ point of view in e-commerce are:

• Affordable price of garments offered in websites

• Some online stores have adaptable sizing for everybody

• Some online stores have standardized sizing

Therefore, besides the price, the factor that conditions parents to buy clothes for their children in

e-commerce is the easiness or difficulty to choose the correct size.

3.2. Study with parents

3.2.1. Qualitative analysis: focus groups

On this section, the results obtained from the focus groups with parents of children between 0-12

years are presented.



The results are structured in four main blocks:

• Characterization of purchase process and sizing selection in physical store

• Barriers and strengths of online purchase

• Design requirements and functionalities of the Kidsize tool

• Privacy aspects to consider

This information has been useful to design a questionnaire and validate data more exhaustively.

On section 3.2.2. Quantitative analysis: online surveys, design requirements and functionalities

that parents discussed during the focus group are presented. These results were validated in an

online survey with a quantitative sample.

3.2.1.1. Characterization of purchase process and sizing selection in physical store

On this section, the information about potential users and their common habits of purchase is

presented.

Table 4 presents the main characteristics of the purchase habits of children clothing.

Table 4. Characterization of purchase process and size selection

Shopper - Parents without children

- Parents with children

- Other relatives and friends

Sizing selection

method

- Purchase based on the information of the height

- Comparison with items brought from home

- Visual size selection when:

o They know the brand, and it is about tops and skirts or

dresses.

o In the case of pants if they incorporate any

adjustment element as rubber or adjustable waist

button.

- The size in years is only a guide. Parents do not look at it

unless they know the brand and know which is the right size

Main fitting

Measurements

- Length of the garment

- Leg length

- Chest girth

- Waist girth

- Sleeve length

Trends - Parents usually buy the widest clothing

On Table 5 compiled problems that parents comment during the focus group regarding clothing

purchase for their children are summarized.

In general, the main problem regarding fitting. Parents state that sizing methods change

depending of the brand and many times size by age does not correspond with real age.



Table 5. Main problems of fitting for children clothes

Fitting

problems

- Too much difference between sizes from different

manufacturers

- Too much difference between sizes between different models

of a single manufacturer

- Sizing varies depending on the cloth

- Sometimes there is too much difference between two

consecutive sizes and the fitted size

- Children often are above the size that corresponds by age,

especially regarding height

- Trends show that the sizes that correspond with age are

small

- Inconsistency in the structure of the garment, especially

within leg length and waist girth, and sleeves length

o If leg length fits usually the waist girth is narrow in the

case of overweight children and wide for very thin

children

- If the garment is very stiff, they usually have adjustment

problems. In the case of this type of cloth, the garment should

be looser.

- Pants are the most problematic garment

*The most problematic garment regarding to fitting are pants

for all ages; above all in the case of babies.

- Long sleeves are also a common problem in children

between 3 and 12 years.

Clothing Test

problems

- Children do not like to try the garments on

- Parents cannot try on too many garments in the same

purchase because children get tired quickly

- The next table shows the main problems regarding to

different age ranges of children:

Babies

- Parents cannot test the clothes

- Narrow sizing

- Too much difference between

Measurements of different manufacturers

Children older

than 3 years

- They don´t like to try the clothes on.

- Parents cannot try on several pieces of

clothes in a purchase, neither different

sizes to evaluate which fits better

- Boys, mostly, don´t like to try clothing on

- Girls do not matter

The main Measurements that parents take into account when selecting the correct size of infants

clothing are shown on Table 6. These Measurements were validated at the questionnaire to

identify which ones should be included in the tool.



In general, height is the main measure that parents take into account for any garment regardless

the age of the children.

Table 6. Main Measurements for children clothing purchase

Bottom garments

- Height

- Waist girth

- Hip girth

- Thigh girth

- Inner leg length/ Body rise

Upper garments

- Height

- Weight

- Waist girth

- Chest girth

- Upper arm girth

- Sleeves length

- Shoulder length

- Inseam/ Body rise

- Head girth

- Neck girth

For bodies and

rompers

- Height

- Weight

- Chest girth

- Waist girth

- Body rise/ inseam

- Inner leg

- Neck girth

- Head girth

- Foot width (*for full body rompers and pyjamas)

- Foot length (*for full body rompers and pyjamas)

3.2.1.2. Barriers and strengths of online purchase

The barriers and strengths of online purchase of children clothing are presented on Table 7.

The main advantage that parents found in buying clothes for their children on an online store is

the cheaper price, the largest variety of models and prices to choose, and the easiness of

shopping from home at any time.

On the other hand, the biggest barrier stated by parents of children of all ages is the risk of

selecting the wrong size and the time and cost of returns if they choose the wrong size.



Table 7. Barriers and Strengths of Online purchase for children clothing

BARRIERS STRENGTHS

• Difficult to match the size if you do not know

the brand

• The sizing varies depending on the model of

the garment and the fabric, not just the brand

• Risk of making a mistake when selecting the

size

• Sometimes the photo of the item doesn´t

correspond to reality

• The quality of the fabric is not as appreciated

as in physical store

• It takes more time to arrive

• Exchanges or returns imply a longer time

• The Shipping and Return price; especially

when augmented by garment

• There is no direct feedback on the experience

of other clients like in the physical store itself

• It is necessary to introduce bank details

• It may require to register many times

• Cheaper

• Increased variety of models

• More stock of available sizes of the same

model

• Anytime, anywhere

• Faster time

• More comfortable

• Displacements not required

3.2.1.3. Design requirements and functionalities of the Kidsize tool

The criteria that parents consider most important to take into account in the design of the Kidsize

tool are presented on Table 8.

Table 8. Criteria to take into account in the Kidsize tool

Support

• Mobile App + Web (the same functions for both)

• All functions can be managed with both supports

• Familiar registration

Utility • For online and physical store

Introduction of

Measurements

for babies

• Number of Measurements

• Update frequency

Image captures

for children

• Number of images

• Clothes to take photos

• Who takes the photos

• Support to take photos

• Management of the photos

• Additional material

• Scale object to take photos

Fitting

visualization

• Standard dummy or Avatar with or without identification for

children older than three years



• Fitting information of main Measurements depending of the type

of garment (bottom, upper or whole body)

• Information about fitting

• Visual icons highlight problematic areas (example: arrows)

• Other visualization options

Other

functionalities

• Optional or Obligatory actualization

• With or without reminder and recommendations

• No additional material to download or print

• Combine different garments at the same time

• Information about Growth rates

• Optional automatic update regarding to Growth rates

• Information about fashion trends

3.2.1.4. Privacy aspects

The privacy aspects that parents state to perceive the tool as safe are the following:

• Registration should not link children image with personal data

• Registration should allow and increase control over the information. Information could

be removed when the user decides

• 3D impersonal avatar or pixilated face

• Photos should be eliminated when the 3D model is created

• Photos wearing tight clothes, no underwear

• Privacy policy should be clear and visible

• Privacy requirements should be easy to understand, with a clear language

3.2.2. Quantitative analysis: online surveys

The results are structured in three blocks:

• Physical store buying process

• Utility of the Kidsize system

• Requirements of the Kidsize system

o Support and registration

o Introduction of baby measurements

o Taking and inserting child pictures

o Visualization of the fitting

o Other functionalities

3.2.2.1. Physical store buying process

As can be seen on Figure 8 there is no a clear tendency on whether parents go to buy with their

children or not. Most of the sample said that sometimes they do regardless of the children age.



Figure 8. Habits of purchase of parents accompanied by their children

The figures below show how parents guide themselves when they have to select the correct size

of a garment for their children. In the case of babies the information in centimeters is the main

reference that they take into account (68%) followed by the size age (42%).

In the case of children older than 3 years, the criteria by which parents select the correct size is

the information in centimeters (49%), just taking a look (38%) or by the size age (36%).

Figure 9. Criteria followed by parents to select the correct size for babies´ garment

17%

78%

5%

For babies

Yes, always

Sometimes

No, never

23%

70%

7%

For children

Yes, always

Sometimes

No, never

0

11

14

9

14

21

37

42

68

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100

Other

I take a look when the garment incorporates some

element of adjustment as elastic waistband, etc.

I take a look if I know the brand

I am guided by clothes that I bring from home

I have to try it on

I try it on obove their clothes to see

I take a look, I see the garment and know the size

I am guided by the size age

I am guided by information in centimeters

%

How do you select the correct size when you choose a garment for your baby?



Figure 10. Criteria followed by parents to select the correct size for children´s garments

In general, parents guide themselves by the information in centimeters, regardless of age.

Figure 11 shows the most problematic garment regarding size selection. There are differences

within ages about the type of garment:

• In the case of babies the most problematic garments are shirts, t-shirts and jackets (39%)

followed by daily pants (32%).

• In the case of children, daily pants (64%) and formal pants (36%) are the most

problematic ones.

Figure 11. Problematic garments regarding to size selection for children

1

4

16

17

20

29

36

38

49

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100

Other

I am guided by clothes that I bring from home

I take a look if I know the brand

I try it on obove their clothes to see

I take a look when the garment incorporates some…

I have to try it on

I am guided by the size age

I take a look, I see the garment and know the size

I am guided by information in centimeters

%

How do you select the correct size when you choose a garment for your

children?

4

5

5

11

16

18

19

25

26

32

39

0 20 40 60 80 100

Skirts

Dress

Leggins

Romper

Formal pants

Clothes for events and celebrations

Body

Overall

Coat

Daily pants

Shirt/Tshirt/Jacket

%

With which garment do you have more problems when selecting

the correct size for your baby?



Figure 12. Problematic garments regarding to size selection for children

The tables below show the different Measurements that parents consider when purchasing child

garments. In general, the only body dimension that parents take into account when selecting the

correct size for lower garments is the height of the baby or children.

Table 9. Measurements for lower garments for babies (Percentage of parents)

Height Weight Waist

girth

Hip

girth

Thigh

girth

Inner leg

lenght

Foot girth

(arch area)

Foot

length N/A

Skirt 40 11 37 5 4 11 0 2 35

Pants 72 14 54 7 5 37 4 2 4

Leggings 46 9 23 2 5 25 2 2 33

Table 10. Measurements of lower garments for children older than 3 years (Percentage of parents)

Height Weight Waist

girth

Hip

girth

Thigh

girth

Inner leg

lenght

Foot girth

(arch area)

Foot

length N/A

Skirt 52 6 45 14 1 5 0 0 28

Pants 72 5 60 19 7 32 1 6 2

Leggings 52 4 27 10 6 22 1 6 26

In the case of upper garments height continues being the most relevant measure (see tables

below):

Table 11. Measurements of upper clothes for babies (Percentage of parents)

Height Weight Chest

length

Chest

girth

Waist

girth

Upper-

arm

girth

Sleeve

length

Shoulder

length

Head

girth

Neck

girth N/A

Shirt/TShirt/Jacket 54 9 21 21 9 42 21 0 25 4 54

Dress 47 5 11 11 12 4 14 0 11 35 47

Coat 67 9 18 18 14 23 23 4 7 2 67

Overall 72 11 21 7 14 7 7 0 2 12 72

5

7

7

10

21

23

36

64

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100

Leggins

Overall

Skirts

Dress

Coat

Shirt/Tshirt/Jacket

Formal pants

Daily pants

%

With which garment do you have more problems when selecting

the correct size for your child older than 3 years?



Table 12. Measurements for upper clothes for children older than 3 years (Percentage of parents)

Height Weight Chest

length

Chest

girth

Waist

girth

Up-arm

girth

Sleeve

length

Shoulder

length

Head

girth

Neck

girth N/A

Shirt/TShirt/Jacket 66 5 20 19 6 36 28 3 12 3 66

Dress 55 6 6 18 14 8 8 2 1 25 55

Coat 71 3 21 14 8 31 29 0 0 6 71

Overall 58 5 15 9 16 5 8 0 0 25 58

Table 13. Measurements of bodysuits and rompers for babies (Percentage for parents)

Height Weight Chest

girth

Waist

girth

Body

length Foot girth

Foot

length N/A

Bodysuit 72 23 11 12 26 2 4 7

Romper 79 16 11 7 25 7 16 9

Regarding the clothes fitting (Figure 13), parents prefer somewhat loose-fitting garments, for

lasting a season (for both babies and children).

Figure 13. Clothes fitting at the moment of the purchase

There are differences about adjustment preferences for each type of garment. The table below

shows parents preferences. In both cases, babies and children older than 3 years, for formal

clothes and leggings, parents seek better adjustment than in daily clothes.

For babies:

Table 14. Adjustment preferences at the moment of the purchase (Percentage of parents)

Very tight Tight Slightly loose Very loose N/A

Daily pants 0 8 29 2 1

Formal pants 0 21 16 1 2

Skirt 0 8 17 1 15

Leggings 0 14 12 1 13

Shirt/Tshirt/Jacket 0 8 28 3 1

Dress 0 7 17 0 16

Coat 0 4 29 6 1

Overall 0 4 28 5 3

Body 0 14 22 2 2

Rompers 0 6 28 3 3

Formal wear 0 19 19 1 1

10%

33%57%

For babies

A little tight

Not tight or loose-

fitting

A little loose-

fitting

7%

13%

31%

49%

0%

For children

Very tight

A little tight

Not tight or loose

fittingA little loose fitting

Very loose fitting



For children:

Table 15. Adjustment preferences at the moment of the purchase (Percentage of parents)

Very tight Tight Slightly loose Very loose N/A

Daily pants 4 30 58 2 0

Formal pants 5 49 36 1 3

Skirt 1 31 34 0 26

Leggings 8 38 22 2 23

Shirt/Tshirt/Jacket 1 24 65 3 1

Dress 1 23 41 2 25

Coat 1 10 66 15 2

Overall 1 17 45 6 24

Formal wear 2 23 34 2 31

3.2.2.2. Utility of Kidsize

Parents of babies and children consider that Kidsize is useful to select the correct size of the

garments for their children without trying it on.

There are no differences between age groups regarding to access to the tool.

Figure 14. Access to Kidsize

As can be seen on the figures below, in general, for both age groups, parents consider that the

Kidsize tool is more useful for selling online than for selling in the store (around 89%). But they

consider it useful for both, online and physical store.

Figure 15. Usefulness of the tool Kidsize for babies

92%

8%

Once you know about KIDSIZE,

would you access it for selecting

the size of your baby?

Yes

No

80%

20%

Once you know about kidsize,

would you access it for selecting

the size of your child?

Yes

No

96%

4%

Useful for babies online purchase?

Yes

No

89%

11%

Useful for babies physical store

purchase?

Yes

No



Figure 16. Usefulness of the tool Kidsize for children

The percentage of parents that consider it less useful for physical stores increase in the case of

children between 3 and 12 years.

3.2.2.3. Requirements of the Kidsize system

Support and registration

The favorite support to manage the tool is across a Web + Mobile App.

Figure 17. Support of Kidsize

Regarding registration, in the case of babies, 90% of the parents state that they would register in

Kidsize (Figure 18). In the case of children the 76% of the parents state that they would register

in Kidsize but they show more mistrust than in babies case. Just a 17% will do without doubt

(Figure 19).

Parents normally would register if they do not have to enter personal data.

81%

19%

Useful for children online

purchase?

Yes

No

74%

26%

Useful for children physical store

purchase?

Yes

No

50%43%

7%

For babies

Mobile app + Web

Web

App

48%

43%

9%

For children

Mobile app + web

Web

App



Figure 18. Registration preferences for babies

Figure 19. Registration preferences for children

In general, parents prefer a familiar registration where each parent can manage all their children

data in the same account (84%).

Figure 20. Type of registration

57%23%

10%

6%

2% 2%

For babies

Yes, but I wouldn´t enter personal data

Yes, absolutely I will do

Yes, registration make it more secure

No, I don´t want to receive advertising or offers

No, I don´t want my personal data could be

related with my child´s avatar

No, I have too much passwords to remember

17%

59%

6%

5% 13%

For children

Yes, absolutely I will do

Yes, but without enter personal data

No, I worry someone can see my personal

data

No, I have too many passwords to

remember

No, I don´t want my personal data could

be related with my child´s avatar

84%

16%

For babies

Familiar

registration

One registration

per child84%

16%

For children

Familiar

registration

One registration

per child



Introduction of baby measurements

In the case of babies, Kidsize generates the avatar through the introduction of the Measurements

of the baby. For this reason, parents were asked about how they would manage the introduction

of the Measurements.

Most of the parents would be willing to take and introduce from 3 to 5 Measurements of their

babies (62% of the sample). The 23% would be willing to introduce as many Measurements as

required.

Figure 21. Main Measurements to be introduced in Kidsize

Regarding how many Measurements would they consider adequate for the tool to give them

information of, 53% consider that three Measurements are enough.

Parents consider that Measurements should be updated monthly or every 3 months.

Figure 22. Measurements information provided by Kidsize and Update of Measurements

Most of the parents do not want to download or print additional material.

0

6

10

23

31

31

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100

Less than 3

Until 10

Until 6

Which were needed

Until 5

Until 3

%

Measurements that parents of babies would be willing to

introduce in KIDSIZE

19%

16%

53%

13%

0%

How many Measurements do you

want KIDSIZE to give you

information of?

1

2

3

4

5

10%

42%43%

5%

Update of the Measurements

Every two weeks

Monthly

Each three months

Each 6 months



Figure 23. Additional material to download

Taking and inserting child pictures

In the case of children older than 3 years, parents are willing to take photos to their children to

introduce them in Kidsize. Just the 3% say that they wouldn´t do it in no case.

To upload the photos, 31% of parents would do it if they managed the photos or were sure that

a proper use would be applied (20%).

Figure 24. Stance of parents when uploading photos

Figure 25. Support to take photos

Those who state other reasons argue that they do not want other people seeing their children’s

photo and they are not sure if they would be able to take the photos correctly. Parents always

say that they need more information about the tool to decide whether to upload photos or not.

Figure 25 shows the favorite support to take photos. Smartphone is the best support.

Most parents state that they are willing to take photos to their children with tank top and

underwear (51%) or with tight clothes (23%).

33%

54%

13%

Additional material to download or print

for babies

Yes

No, if not necessary

No, sincerely I wouldn´t do it

3

13

19

20

31

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100

No, in no case

Other

Yes, is not a problem

Yes, only if I am sure that a proper…

Yes, if I manage the photos

%

Would you take photos to your child and upload it in

KIDSIZE?

66%

34%

0%

On what support do you

prefer to take photos of your

child?

Smartphone

Camera

Web



Figure 26. Type of clothes to take the photos

In general, parents can take any number of shots. The 77% can take more than 3 photos easily:

Figure 27. Number of photos parents can take without problems

There is no problem about taking photos of the whole body of the child.

Figure 28. Full body photos

In general, parents consider that the frequency to update photos should be every 3 months (41%)

or 6 months (36%) to ensure an accurate fitting:

6

7

23

51

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100

Swimsuit

Underwear

Tight clothes

Tank top and underwear

%

With which type of clothes would you take pictures to your

child?

9

11

12

28

39

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100

Between 5-6

Between 4-5

Less than 3

Between3-4

The ones I want

%

Number of shots that parents can take of their children

without problems

76%

18%

6%

Would you take photos of the

whole body of your children?

Yes

No

N/A



Figure 29. Frequencies of photos update

The update of photos must be optional but with recommendations to update (46%), or just

provide visible information where parents can check the last update (44%):

Figure 30. Way to update shots

Parents of children older than 3 years do not want to download or print additional material to

manage the tool. They consider it an inconvenient:

Figure 31. Additional material to download or print

There is no problem about using a scale object to take the photos:

8%

41%36%

15%

How often do you consider that photos

should be updated?

Monthly

Each 3 months

Each 6 months

Anually

3%

46%44%

7%

How do you like to be the actualization of the

photos?

Neccessarily each certain months

Optional but with recommendations and

reminders that I should update it

Optional, last date of updated visible and

I will decide to update or not

Optional without recommendations or

notice

33%

39%

28%

Would you print or download additional

material?

Yes

No, if it is not necessary

No, sincerely I wouldn´t



Figure 32. Scale object to take the photos

Visualization of the fitting

Most of the parents, independently of the age of their children, consider that the Kidsize tool

should provide information of 3 Measurements (45%):

Figure 33. Measurements to provide information

In the case of babies, as the system uses Measurements to create the avatar, no real face can be

registered. There is no clear tendency about the 3D model visualization. Parents prefer a

standard dummy without any customization.

In the case of parents of children older than 3 years, they prefer to visualize the avatar of their

children with real face.

Figure 34. Visualization at the Kidsize tool

Figure 35 shows other size information that parents would like to visualize in the tool.

82%

18%

Can you use an object as scale?

Yes

No

12%

16%

45%

10%

17%

How many measurements do you want that kidsize

give information about?

1

2

3

4

5 or more

54%

46%

For babies

Standard dummy

Standard dummy that

can be customized

31%

14%23%

32%

For children

Standard dummy that can be

customized

Avatar of my child but with the

face pixelated

Standard dummy

Avatar of my child with the real

face, that I can recognize



Most of the parents (74%), independently of the age of their children prefer to visualize one

smaller and one bigger size to evaluate the fitting of the garment.

Figure 35. Other size information to visualize

Regarding visualization options, most of the parents of both age ranges would like to try on

different garments at the same time, a visualization of 360º, and signs indicating bad fitting

areas.

Other visualization options that should characterize the visualization of the avatar/dummy in the

tool are represented below:

For babies:

Figure 36 Other information to visualize for babies

For children:

Figure 37. Other information to visualize for children

24%1%

74%

1%Size information to visalize

To see one bigger size

To see one smaller size

To see one smaller and one bigger size

Other

0

5

16

21

46

60

65

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100

Other

Just the avatar or duymmy with the selected garment

Visualize diffrent postures of the avatar

When I select a garment, the system award a…

Sign bad fitting areas

360º visualization

Try on different garments at the same time

%

Other information for babies to visualize in KIDSIZE

1

12

18

28

44

48

53

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100

Other

Just the avatar or duymmy with the selected…

Visualize diffrent postures of the avatar

When I select a garment, the system award a…

Sign bad fitting areas

360º visualization

Try on different garments at the same time

%

Other information for children to visualize in KIDSIZE



Other functionalities

Figure 38 shows other visualization aspects that parents would like the tool to provide, not

related to fitting. The most interesting aspects are automatic updated regarding growth rates and

information about growth rates.

Figure 38. Other information to provide

3.2.3. Conclusions of the study with parents

• Firstly, needs and barriers that parents have when purchasing children clothes in physical and

online stores were identified. Tables below show the most relevant needs.

The main need identified across this study was that it is very complicated to try garments on to

children regardless the age.

Table 16. Needs in physical store

Children

interaction

• As concerns to babies, they cannot try garments on so parents

are forced to buy without trying them on to their babies.

• In the case of children older than 3 years, many times children do

not want to try it on or they do not accompany parents.

Size

information

• Size does not correspond to the age of children

• Each brand has its own specific sizing method

Table 17. Needs on online store

Fitting • Size age do not correspond to the age of children

• Each brand has its own specific sizing method

Returns and

exchanges

• Cost of time

• Cost of money

For these reasons, parents consider that a tool as Kidsize is strongly useful because it will

facilitate clothing purchase for both physical and online purchases.

On the one side, it will reduce returns or changes, which will involve a reduction of the time

spent in the purchasing process. On the other side, it will facilitate online purchases and it will

reduce prices. Thanks to a tool as Kidsize, parents will see an accurate fitting of the garment

before buying it.

11%

21%

30%

38%

For babies

11%

30%

43%

16%

For children

Other

Fashion trends

Automatic updated regarding to growth rates

Information about growth rates



• The main aspects that must characterize the Kidsize tool have been identified. In general, to

result USEFUL, Kidsize should provide key information about fitting in a visual way. Table 18

presents the main requisites of the tool:

Table 18. Main requirements of the Kidsize tool

Utility • Online and physical store

Support and

registration

• Mobile App + Web (the same functions for both)

• Familiar registration required

Input of baby

measurements

• Three measurements

• Monthly update

Taking and inserting

child pictures

• The necessary pictures (3-4 shots is ok)

• Tank top and underwear for taking pictures

• Parents take pictures with Smartphone, for physical and

online store

• Parents always want to manage the pictures

• Update every three months

• Scale object to take photos

Visualization of the

fitting

• Standard dummy for babies

• Avatar with the face of the children for children older

than three years

• Fitting information of three main Measurements

depending of the type of garment (lower, upper or whole

body)

• Information about fitting

• Sign with visual icons problematic areas (example:

arrows)

• To see one bigger and one smaller size

• 360º visualization of the avatar/ dummy

Other

functionalities

• Information about Growth rates

• Optional automatic update regarding to Growth rates

• Other information not related with fitting is not

interesting for parents. They want the tool to provide

clear information just about fitting

Privacy

• Photos should be eliminated when the 3D model is

created

• No personal data as addresses or telephones should be

introduced in the tool

• Clear and visible privacy policy

• Parents manage the photos

Kidsize should provide fitting information of three measurements for each type of garment;

depending on the type of garment, these are:



Table 19. Measurements to evaluate the fitting in Kidsize of lower garments for babies

LOWERS BABIES HEIGHT WAIST GIRTH INNER LEG/ BODY RISE

Pants X X X

Skirts X X X

Leggins X X X

Table 20. Measurements to evaluate the fitting in Kidsize of lower garments for children

LOWERS CHILDREN HEIGHT WAIST GIRTH HIP GIRTH INNER LEG/ BODY RISE

Pants X X X X

Skirts X X X X

Leggins X X X

Table 21. Measurements to evaluate the fitting in Kidsize of upper garments for babies

UPPER GARMENTS BABIES HEIGHT CHEST GIRTH UPPER ARM SLEEVE LENGTH HEAD GIRTH NECK GIRTH

Shirts/ T-shirts/ Jackets X X X X

Dress X X X X

Coats X X X X

Overall X X X

Table 22. Measurements to evaluate the fitting in Kidsize of upper garments for children

UPPER GARMENTS CHILDREN HEIGHT WAIST GIRTH CHEST GIRTH INNER LEG UPPER ARM SLEEVE LENGTH NECK GIRTH

Shirts/ T-shirts/ Jackets X X X

Dress X X X

Coats X X X

Overall X X X

Table 23. Measurements to evaluate the fitting in Kidsize for babies

FULL BODY BABIES HEIGHT WAIST GIRTH BODY LENGTH FOOT LENGTH

Bodysuits X X X

Rompers X X X



3.3. Study with retailers

3.3.1. Qualitative analysis: interviews

The results of the retailers’ interviews are structured in four main blocks:

• Physical store shopping process (for babies and for children)

• Retailers expectancy on the use of new support tools for the purchase process

• Barriers of Kidsize use at physical stores

• Requirements for the Kidsize tool

The information collected through interviews has been used to design a questionnaire and

validate it exhaustively.

On section 3.3.2. Quantitative analysis: online surveys, design requirements and functionalities

that retailers discussed during the interviews are presented. These results were validated in an

online survey with a quantitative sample.

3.3.1.1. Physical store shopping process

On this section, different aspects that characterize physical purchase for babies and children

clothes are described.

Table 24 presents key aspects of the process:

Table 24. Characterization of purchase process in physical store

Type of

purchase

• Two common situations:

o Self-purchase:

� Just to look. In this case, the customer does not buy

� The customer knows the brand and he/she likes going on his own

o Addressed purchase (most know the brand)

Protocol • Customers first come and look at the offer of the store without buying

• They make the purchase when they return with children

Shopper

• Mothers on weekdays

• Mothers with their babies and children during the weekend or during

weekdays in the afternoon to try clothes on

• Grandmothers and uncles for gifts, for example

Customers who know the brand usually buy without trying clothes on to their

children. When customers don´t know the brand they try to try garments on to

their children or bring garments from home to compare

Number of

visits

• Monthly

• 2 or 3 times per month



Sizing

selection

method

• Key measure is HEIGHT

• In multibrand stores customers need retailer assistance

• Some retailers use mannequins as reference

• Differences in size selection regarding different criteria:

- Age range:

o Babies:

� Parents cannot try garments on to their babies

� Size information: centimetres

� Parents compare with other garments they bring from home

� Just looking

� Retailers´ assistance

o Children older than 3 years:

� Parents try clothes on to their children

� Size information: centimeters

� Parents do not guide by size per years (sometimes size per

years is not related to children years)

� Parents compare with other garments they bring from home

� Just see if they know the brand and returns are allowed

- Fabric type:

o Elastic fabric (cotton, wool, etc.):

� Parents try garments on if possible

� Just look; if elastic fabric is easy to guess the size

o Rigid fabric:

� Parents try it on to assure children´s comfort

o Formal clothes:

� Parents always try it on to their children. Parents demand

more for garments for events and celebrations

- Type of garment:

o Button pants: they normally are rigid and parents prefer to try it

on to their children.

� Parent prefer pants with elastic elements

� The main Measurements are the leg length and waist girth

o Jackets/ Sweaters/ Upper garments:

� The main Measurements are the sleeve length, chest girth

and global length of the garment

o Some retailers use mannequins’ sample as reference for parents

when they come without children

Try clothes on

• Children do not like try clothes on

• Boys like less than girls

• 2 sizes per garment, their size and one size larger

• 4-5 garments every visit to the shop

Purchase

decision

• Too much doubts when purchasing formal pants with/without buttons

• With other types of garments they don´t have as many doubts as with pants

Information

about sizes

• If the size is big or small

• Shopping trends about buying clothes more or less tight or loose fitting

• Type of fabric



Fashion trends

• Actual trend: a little loose fitting for lasting all season

• T-shirts and pants: more tight than coats, dresses or other garments

• Warm clothing: loose fitting, for lasting 2 seasons

• Clothes for events and celebrations: tight size

Changes and

returns

• Changes and returns are mostly related with fitting problems

• Most changed or returned type of garment: pants

• Most changed or returned type of fabric: rigid fabric

• Most frequent reason: parents want a bigger size.

• Other reason is when it is a gift

We have identified the main Measurements that retailers take into account when selecting the

correct size for helping parents. These Measurements were validated at the questionnaire to

identify which ones should be included in the tool.

In general, height is the main measure that retailers take into account for any garment regardless

the age of the children.

Table 25. Main Measurements for retailers

Lower garments

- Height

- Waist girth

- Hip girth

- Thigh girth


Upper garments

- Height

- Waist girth

- Chest girth

- Upper arm girth

- Sleeves length

- Shoulder length

- Neck girth

For bodies and rompers

- Height

- Weight

- Chest girth

- Waist girth


- Sleeves length

- Shoulder length

- Foot instep width

- Foot length

3.3.1.2. Retailers expectancy on the use of new support tools for the purchase process

At first, retailers see the Kidsize tool more useful for an online store than a physical store but

they notice that it is also useful for physical stores.

For a physical store, retailers consider that a support tool to help them on sizing

recommendations would be very useful in certain situations:



- When parents come without children

- For babies that cannot try garments on

- For children who don´t want to try clothes on

They were asked about how a tool would help them in their work, and they stated that the

perfect tool should make unnecessary trying the clothes on.

3.3.1.3. Barriers of Kidsize use at physical stores

Table 26 shows the limitations of use for physical stores:

Table 26. Barriers of use at physical stores

Space • Little space

• Retailers need to move constantly to attend (portable tool)

Average of time to spend

• Short time to use it

• Depending on schedule and day:

o Weekday in the morning:

� 15 minutes per child

o Weekend in the afternoon:

� 6-7 minutes per child

Personal Attention • They highlight that customers seek a personal treatment

and retailer’s advice.

Knowledge about TICS • Medium/Low level

Other Knowledge • Parents don´t know how to take Measurements

Privacy • Kidsize should assure privacy to customers

• Retailers don´t want to manage risky situations of privacy

3.3.1.4. Requirements for the Kidsize tool

Retailers were asked about which aspects and requirements should characterize the tool for it to

be useful and usable. They provided information on the next areas:

- Introduction of baby Measurements

- Taking and inserting child pictures

- Visualization of the fitting

- Kidsize management by the seller

All this information has been validated on an online survey, and the results can be observed on

the next section.

3.3.2. Quantitative analysis: online surveys

The results of the retailers’ survey are structured in three main blocks:

• Physical store shopping process (for babies and for children)

• Utility of the Kidsize system

• Requirements of the Kidsize system:

o Introduction of baby Measurements

o Taking and inserting child pictures

o Visualization of the fitting



o Kidsize management by the seller

3.3.2.1. Physical store shopping process

As can be seen on Figure 39 around 80% of retailers of baby clothes state that parents buy

clothes without their babies. Instead, regarding child clothes, there is not a clear tendency.

For baby clothes: For child clothes:

Figure 39. Buying with or without children

As can be seen on Figure 40, the most requested information by parents is information related to

size and fitting (for both baby and child clothes). The following information more requested is the

models of the garment.

For baby clothes:

79%

21%

When you advise on the sale of

baby clothes, are the customers

usually accompanied with their

babies?

No

Yes 42%

58%

When you advise on the sale of

children's clothes, are the

customers usually accompanied

with children?

No

Yes

0

21

25

29

50

58

92

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100

Information on Fashion Trends

Advices for washing up

Information about promotions and offers

Recommendations for complemented clothes

Information about composition and fabric of the garment

Information about available models of the garment

Size and fitting information

%

Which information is requested by customers when they are buying baby

clothes?



For child clothes:

Figure 40. Information requested by customers

In general, for both babies and children, most of the retailers are guided by the size-age in order

to recommend the right size (Figure 41). Recommendations for baby clothes are carried out by

looking at the baby and guiding by the measurements, and recommendations for child clothes are

carried out by guiding by the measurements first and looking at the child later.

For baby clothes:

5

16

26

42

53

63

84

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100

Information on Fashion Trends

Advices for washing up


Recommendations for complemented clothes

Information about composition and fabric of the

garment

Information about available models of the garment

Size and fitting information

%

Which information is requested by customers when they are buying children

clothes?

0

0

0

13

13

58

63

75

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100

They have to try it on

I am guided by clothes that parents bring from home and I

compare

I show mannequins and the parents can indicate me if the baby is

similar in height and body contouring.

They try it on above their clothes to see

I take a look, when the garment incorporates some element of

adjustment as elastic waistband, etc...

I am guided by the information in centimetres (example. height)

I take a look and when I see the baby I know the size

I am guided by the size-age

%

When customers choose a garment for babies, how do you recommend the

right size?



For child clothes:

Figure 41. Recommendations of retailers about the right size

Figure 42 shows the garments with more questions to retailers regarding the right size. For both

baby and child clothes, parents ask retailers especially regarding the right size of coats. For

babies, the following garments are rompers and formal pants. For children, formal and daily

pants.

For baby clothes:

0

0

5

16

26

37

53

79

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100

I am guided by clothes that parents bring from home and I

compare

I show mannequins and the parents can indicate me if the

children are similar in height and body contouring.

I take a look, when the garment incorporates some element of

adjustment as elastic waistband, etc...

They try it on to see above

They have to try it on

I take a look and when I see the children I know the size

I am guided by the information in centimetres (example. height)

I am guided by the size-age

%

When customers choose a garment for children how do you recommend the

right size?

8

8

13

17

21

29

29

29

33

33

54

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100

Skirts

Overall

Shirt/ T-shirt/ Jacket

Body suits

Leggins

Daily pants (sweat pants, jeans, etc.)

Dresses


Formal pants

Rompers

Coat

%

In which kind of garment have customers more questions when choosing the

right size for baby´s clothes?



For child clothes:

Figure 42. Garments with more questions to retailers regarding the right size

The next tables show, for each kind of garment, the Measurements that retailers have in mind

when they recommend the right size to parents. In the case of lower garments, the measurement

that retailers have most in mind is the height, for both babies and children (especially in pants

and leggings).

Table 27. Measurements for lower garments of babies (percentage of retailers)

Height Weight Waist

girth

Hip

girth

Thigh

girth

Inner leg

length

Foot girth

(arch area)

Foot

length N/A

Skirt 54 17 33 4 0 0 0 0 25

Pants 75 29 25 4 0 8 0 0 17

Leggings 75 21 4 8 8 4 0 17 13

Table 28. Measurements for lower garments of children (percentage of retailers)

Height Weight Waist

girth

Hip

girth

Thigh

girth

Inner leg

length

Foot girth

(arch area)

Foot

length N/A

Skirt 84 37 21 5 0 0 0 0 11

Pants 89 47 16 11 0 5 0 0 11

Leggings 84 32 0 0 5 5 0 26 11

In the case of upper garments, the measurement that retailers have most in mind is the height

too, in both babies and children.

5

5

5

11

11

11

26

42

47

58

63

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100

Body suits

Overall

Rompers

Skirts

Leggins

Shirt/ T-shirt/ Jacket


Dresses

Daily pants (sweat pants, jeans, etc.)

Formal pants

Coat

%

In which kind of garment have customers more questions when choosing the

right size for children´s clothes?



Table 29. Measurements for upper garments of babies (percentage of retailers)

Height Weight Chest

length

Chest

girth

Waist

girth

Upper-

arm

girth

Sleeve

length

Shoulder

length

Head

girth

Neck

girth N/A

Shirt/T-shirt/Jacket 71 25 4 13 0 0 25 13 8 0 17

Dress 83 33 4 13 0 0 8 8 0 0 17

Coat 79 29 4 17 0 0 8 8 0 0 17

Overall 79 25 13 4 8 0 0 0 0 0 17

Table 30. Measurements for upper garments of children (percentage of retailers)

Height Weight Chest

length

Chest

girth

Waist

girth

Upper-

arm girth

Sleeve

length

Shoulder

length

Head

girth

Neck

girth N/A

Shirt/T-Shirt/Jacket 79 37 11 16 0 0 11 21 0 0 11

Dress 89 53 0 16 0 0 5 5 0 0 11

Coat 89 26 5 11 0 0 16 16 0 0 11

Overall 89 26 0 0 11 0 0 0 0 0 11

Retailers were asked for the measurements to recommend full bodysuits and rompers for babies.

The measurement that retailers have most in mind is the height as well.

Table 31. Measurements for bodysuit and rompers of babies (percentage of retailers)

Height Weight Chest

girth

Waist

girth

Waist

length

Foot girth

(arch area)

Foot

length N/A

Full Bodysuit 79 21 4 4 8 0 4 17

Romper 88 29 0 0 13 0 8 13

Regarding the clothes’ fitting (Figure 43), retailers state that parents of babies prefer somewhat

loose-fitting garments, for them to last a season and parents of children prefer very loose-fitting

garments, for them to last more than one season.


Figure 43. Preferences of garment fitting

0% 4%

25%

67%

4%

How do the parents prefer the

garment fit at the time of purchase?

Very tight, they like to be in

fashion

Tight

Not tight or loose-fitting

A little loose-fitting, for lasting

a season

Very loose-fitting, by this way

it can last more than a season

5%

16%

11%

5%

63%

How do the parents prefer the

garment fit at the time of purchase?

Very tight, they like to be in

fashion

Tight

Not tight or loose-fitting

A little loose-fitting, for lasting

a season

Very loose-fitting, by this way it

can last more than a season



Regarding the number of sizes tested (Figure 44), there are big differences between babies and

children. Babies do not try clothes on, instead, children try on 1 or 2 sizes of the same garment.


Figure 44. Number of sizes tested by babies and children

3.3.2.2. Utility of the Kidsize system

As can be seen on Figure 45, in general, for both babies and children, retailers consider that the

Kidsize tool is more useful for selling online (around 95%) than for selling in the store (around

60%).

Kidsize for selling in the store


0%

0%

0% 0%

10%

32%58%

How many sizes of the same

garment are usually tried on

babies?

More than 6

Between 5 and 6

Between 4 and 5

Between 3 and 4

Between 2 and 3

1 or 2

They do not try clothes

on

0% 5%

11%6%

6%

61%

11%

How many sizes of the same

garment are usually tried on

children?

More than 6

Between 5 and 6

Between 4 and 5

Between 3 and 4

Between 2 and 3

1 or 2

They do not try clothes

on

42%

58%

Do you consider useful the KIDSIZE

tool for selling childrenswear in

your store?

No

Yes 42%

58%


tool for selling childrenswear in

your store?

No

Yes



Kidsize for selling online


Figure 45. Utility of the Kidsize

Around 55% of the retailers consider that Kidsize tool could be more useful when relatives or

friends of the children go to the store to buy a gift. The next case in which Kidsize could be useful

is for parents that go to the store without the children.

In addition, retailers consider the tool more useful for babies than for children between 3 and 12

years old (Figure 46).

For baby clothes:

4%

96%


tool for selling childrenswear

online?

No

Yes

5%

95%


tool for selling childrenswear

online?

No

Yes

4

38

38

50

54

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100

For children between 3 and 12 years

For babies

For boys, boys do not like try clothes on

When parents come without children

When family or friends come because they…

%

Please indicate in which cases a tool like this would be more useful



For child clothes:

Figure 46. Cases where Kidsize tool could be more useful

3.3.2.3. Requirements for the Kidsize system

Introduction of baby Measurements

On this section, preferences regarding the introduction of baby Measurements in the Kidsize tool

are shown. These preferences are from retailers who work in stores that sell baby clothes (24

retailers).

Most of the retailers consider that the seller is the person who should take and introduce the

baby Measurements (with or without support of the customer). They consider that the seller is

the person who knows how to take the Measurements correctly.

Figure 47. Person who should take and introduce the baby Measurements

Retailers who consider that the baby Measurements have to be introduced in the store say that

the space is not a problem (around 50%), and this space could be a small area in the store (next

to wall, corner…).

On the other hand, most of the retailers consider that the baby Measurements have to be

updated every time parents go to the store (around 40%). Nobody considers that the

Measurements have to be updated every 15 days.

5

42

47

53

58

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100

For children between 3 and 12 years

For boys, boys do not like try clothes on

For babies

When parents come without children

When family or friends come because they want

to make a gift

%

Please indicate in which cases a tool like this would be more useful

25%

4%

29%

42%

Who do you think should take and introduce

Measurements?

The customer before come to the store

The customer in the store

The seller who knows how to take them

The seller with customer support



Figure 48. Preferences regarding the space in the store for introducing Measurements and the time to be updated.

Taking and inserting child pictures

In this section, preferences regarding the shot of child pictures are shown. These preferences are

from retailers who work in stores that sell child clothes (19 retailers).

Around 40% of the retailers consider that parents should take the pictures of their child and

introduce them in Kidsize tool before going to the store (Figure 49).

Figure 49. Person who should take and introduce the baby Measurements

However, there are retailers who prefer that the pictures are taken in the store. Therefore, the

next figure shows the preferences of these retailers.

As can be seen on Figure 50, retailers prefer that the pictures are taken with a camera of the

store (42%). For retailers, the space for taking pictures is not a problem, it could be about the

size of a fitting room.

Most of the retailers could not have tight fitting clothes for taking pictures.

Retailers consider that the pictures should be updated every time the parents ask for it or every

6 months.

50%

22%

28%

0%

How much space would you have

in the store to take the

Measurements?

The space is not a

problem

The space about the size

of a fitting room

A small area in the store

(next to wall, corner…)

I do not have any space

22%

39%

22%

11%6% 0%

How often do you consider reasonable

for the Measurements to be updated?

Every time parents ask for it

Every time parents come to the

storeEvery 6 months

Every 3 months

Every month

Every 15 days

32%

26%

37%

5%

Who do you think should take and insert the

pictures?

The seller with the presence of

parentsThe seller with the permission of

parentsThe customer before come to

the storeThe customer in the store



Figure 50. Preferences regarding the space in the store for introducing Measurements and the time to be updated.


Around 60% of retailers consider that customers should visualize the fitting of the garment with

the advice of the seller (Figure 51).


Figure 51. Person who should visualize the fitting of the garment

Around 50% of retailers consider that, in addition to the best fitted size for children, the

visualization of fitting should provide one size bigger and one size smaller of the garment.

33%

42%

8%

17%

How do you prefer to take the

photos in the store?

With a Tablet computer

of the store

With a camera of the

store

With the customer's

mobile

With the webcam of the

store

50%

33%

17%

0%

How much space in the store could

you have for taking photos?

The space is not a

problem

The space about the size

of a fitting room

A small area in the store

(next to wall, corner…)

I do not have any space

67%

33%

Could you have tight fitting

clothes or jumpsuits to take

the children´s pictures?

No

Yes

34%

8%0%

33%

17%

8%

How often do you consider reasonable

for the photos to be updated?

Every time parents ask for it

Every time parents come to the store

Once a year

Every 6 months

Every 3 months

Every month

58%25%

17%

Who do you think should visualize

the fitting of the garment in the

KIDSIZE tool?

The customer with the

advice of the seller

The seller

The customer 63%21%

16%

Who do you think should visualize

the fitting of the garment in the

KIDSIZE tool?

The customer with the

advice of the seller

The seller

The customer




Figure 52. Information about fitting

Regarding other display functions, retailers consider more interesting that the system were able

to fit one complemented garment by default (Figure 53). The other preferred option is to see a

view of 360%.

For baby clothes:

15%

50%

35%

What fitting information would be

useful to provide, to determine

whether the size is adequate?

Possibility of seeing fit of

one more size

To see more size and one

size smaller

Possibility of seeing fit of

one less size

19%

50%

31%

What fitting information would be

useful to provide, to determine

whether the size is adequate?

Possibility of seeing fit

of one more size

To see more size and

one size smaller

Possibility of seeing fit

of one less size

8

21

25

42

50

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100

Visualize various postures of the model

The avatar could signalled areas that do not fit well

You can try several garment on at once

360 º of viewing

When only one garment is selected, the system could

be able to fit one complemented garment by default

%

What other display functions would be useful for the KIDSIZE to offer to the

customer?



For child clothes:

Figure 53. Other display functions

Most of the retailers consider that the best tool for displaying the fitting in the store is a tablet

(Figure 54).


Figure 54. Support to display the fitting of the garment

KSDIZE management by the seller

Most of the retailers would insert their stock in Kidsize tool, but if they do not have to spend a

long time.

5

21

32

42

53

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100

Visualize various postures of the model

The avatar could signalled areas that do not fit well

You can try several garment on at once

360 º of viewing

When only one garment is selected, the system could

be able to fit one complemented garment by default

%

What other display functions would be useful for the KIDSIZE to offer to the

customer?

67%8%

25%

0%

What support of the KIDSIZE would be

more comfortable to display the fitting

of the garment in store?

Tablet computer

Touchscreen

Computer

Smartphone74%

10%

16%

0%

What support of the KIDSIZE would

be more comfortable to display the

fitting of the garment in store?

Tablet computer

Touchscreen

Computer

Smartphone




Figure 55. Inserting the stock of the store

Retailers would use Kidsize tool, but only for seeing the fitting (Figure 56).


Figure 56. Use by the seller

Regarding the time that sellers would spend using Kidsize tool, they would not spend more than 5

minutes.

4%

64%5%

27%

Would you be willing to insert your

stock in the KIDSIZE tool for its use?

Yes, without any problem

Yes, if I don not have to

spend a long time

Yes, if only I can access it

No, in any case

5%

72%

6%17%

Would you be willing to insert your

stock in the KIDSIZE tool for its use?

Yes, without any

problem

Yes, if I don not have to

spend a long time

Yes, if only I can access

it

No, in any case

17%

71%

12%

Would you work with it if it was

available?

No, I would not use it

sincerily

Yes, but only for seeing

the fitting

Yes, for all the process

16%

74%

10%

Would you work with it if it was

available?

No, I would not use it

sincerily

Yes, but only for

seeing the fitting

Yes, for all the process




Figure 57. Time preferred by the seller

3.3.3. Conclusions of the study with retailers

To conclude, in this section, the main needs, requirements and barriers of use for retailers are

presented. These factors should be considered to design the tool and define specifications to be

useful and usable for retailers.

• The barriers of Kidsize use in physical store have been identified. The tables below describe

the main barriers for physical store:

Table 32. Barriers of use at physical store for retailers

Space • Little space

• Retailers need to move constantly to attend (portable tool)

Average of time to

spend • Short time to spend using it (depending on schedule and day)

Personal Attention • Local customer looks for personal assistance

Knowledge about TICS • Medium/Low level

Other Knowledge • Parents don´t know how to take Measurements

Privacy • Kidsize should assure privacy to customers

• Retailers don´t want to manage risky situations of privacy

• The physical store shopping process has been analyzed from the retailers’ point of view. The

following table shows the main characteristics of this process:

15%

30%35%

5%

10%5% 0%

How long would you spend with the

KIDSIZE tool?

I could not waste time, I

have too many customersBetween 2 and 3 minutes

Between 4 and 5 minutes


10 minutes

15 minutes

Up tp 20 minutes

12%

19%

44%

6%

13%

6% 0%

How long would you spend with the

KIDSIZE tool?

I could not waste time, I

have too many customersBetween 2 and 3 minutes



10 minutes

15 minutes

Up tp 20 minutes



Table 33. Main characteristics of the physical store shopping process from retailers’ point of view

Protocol

• Parents buy clothes without their babies

• Parents of children older than 3 years first come and look at the offer

of the store without buying, and they make the purchase when they

return with children

Size selection

method

• Most of the retailers are guided by the size-age in order to

recommend the right size

• The main measure that retailers have in mind when they recommend

the right size to parents is the height

Try clothes on

• Babies do not try clothes on

• Children don´t like to try clothes on

• Children try on 1 or 2 sizes of the same garment

Information

requested by

parents

• The most requested information by parents is information related to

size and fitting

Trends • Parents prefer loose-fitting garments

Changes and

returns

• Changes and returns are mostly related with fitting problems

• Most changed or returned type of garment: pants

• Most frequent reason: parents want a bigger size.

• Finally, the needs, expectations and barriers for the integration of the Kidsize tool in physical

store have been identified. The next table presents the main requirements of the Kidsize tool

from the retailers’ point of view.

Table 34. Main requirements of the Kidsize tool from retailers

Utility

• Retailers consider that Kidsize tool is more useful for selling

online

• For physical store the most useful situations are:

o When relatives or friends of the children go to the store

o When parents go to the store without children

Introduction of

baby

Measurements

• Seller is the person who should take and introduce the baby

Measurements

• The space could be a small area in the store

• The baby Measurements should be updated every time parents

go to the store

Taking and

inserting child

pictures

• Parents should take the pictures of their child and introduce

them in the Kidsize tool before going to the store



Fitting

visualization

• Customers with the advice of the seller should visualize the

fitting of the garment

• In addition to the best fitted size for children the visualization of

fitting should provide one size bigger and one size smaller of the

garment

• The system should be able to fit one complemented garment by

default.

• It should be possible to see a view of 360%.

• The best tool for displaying the fitting in the store is a tablet

Kidsize

management

by the seller

• Retailers would insert their stock in Kidsize tool if they do not

have to spend a long time

• Retailers would use Kidsize tool, but only for seeing the fitting

• Retailers would not spend more than 5 minutes using Kidsize

tool in the store.



T1.2 characterization of childrenswear e-commerce

1. Introduction

The objective of this task is to understand the childrenswear e-commerce in order to facilitate

the integration of the new tools to be developed in the project.

2. Methodology

2.1. Data about usage patterns in existing European e-commerce platforms

A review of data about usage patterns in existing European e-commerce platforms has been

performed by OZONGO.

After analyzing the current usage patterns, the integration model between Kidsize tool and an e-

commerce platform has been developed by OZONGO.

2.2. Survey to e-commerce managers

IBV carried out an online survey to 15 e-commerce managers working in childrenswear

companies of the three target countries (Spain, France and Finland), who commercialize their

garments on their own online shops. The sample of e-commerce managers was provided by

ASEPRI in Spain, by NovaCHILD in France, by Finatex in Finland and by CFE in all countries. The

survey in France was carried out by NovaCHILD. The objectives of this survey were:

• To analyze the e-commerce penetration in childrenswear sector

• To understand the management process of e-commerce sites

• To identify the needs, expectations and barriers for the integration of the KIDZISE tool

in e-commerce

The questionnaire used in the survey was designed by IBV with the help of OZONGO and Figure 58

shows the descriptive parameters of the sample of the companies surveyed:

7%

14%

79%

Select your country

Spain

Finland

France

47%

40%

13%

Specify the size of your company

Less than 50

employees

Between 50 and 250

employees

More than 250

employees



Figure 58. Characteristics of sample of the participant companies

In general, most of the surveyed companies are from France, the childrenswear companies where

they work have less than 250 employees, and their market is Northern and Central Europe.

Figure 59 shows the online sales data of the companies surveyed.

Figure 59. Online sales data of the companies surveyed

Regarding the online monthly turnover of the companies, there is variety. There are companies

with a turnover of less than 1,500 € and there are companies with a turnover of more than

10,000€.

Regarding the percentage of online sales in baby garments compared to online sales of children

garments, most of the surveyed companies sell more children garments than baby garments

(between 0 and 3 years old).

0

0

0

7

20

20

67

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100

South America

Oceania

Africa

North America

South Europe (Mediterranean and South countries)

Asia

Northern and Central Europe

%

What is the market for your products?

23%

15%

8%

0%

31%

23%

What is your online monthly

turnover?

Less than 1.500€

1.500€ to 4.000€

4.000€ to 7.000€

7.000€ to 10.000€

10.000€ to 15.000€

More than 15.000€

31%

46%

15%

8%

What percentage of your online

sales is baby garments compared to

online sales of children garments?

Less than 10%

Between 10% and 30%

Between 30% and 50%

More than 50%



3. Results

3.1. Data about usage patterns in existing European e-commerce platforms

The results are structured in three main blocks:

• E-commerce in Europe

• Market shares of e-commerce software platforms

• Model integration description

3.1.1. E-commerce in Europe

In Europe, during 2013, the advance of the Internet was 7.8%, as the penetration was previously

high. As a proof of this, 90% of European companies have access to the Internet, according to data

collected in the report The Networked Society 2013, the National Observatory for

Telecommunications and the Information Society (OMSI), belonging to ared.es. Leading the

ranking are Netherlands and Finland where the percentage rises up to 99%.

Regarding e-Business, it is reaching an excellent moment in the European Union; according to e-

Business Watch, companies are aware of cost savings involved in the use of ICT, and

improvements in efficiency and productivity have been key to the growth of investment in this

sector. In addition, they also have become more creative in their use, creating new forms of

customer service.

Electronic commerce intended for consumers is also increasing, mainly due to the improvement

of the websites of the companies, which have a high download speed and provide an

environment that what you are looking for is easy to find. The figure in 2013 of B2C in Europe,

according to Forrester Research, exceeded 100,000 million, and it is expected to reach 363,000 by

2014, which would mean an increase of 157.8% over the whole period.

However, there are big differences between countries, according to the Eurostat, like high rates of

UK (44%), the Netherlands and Denmark (43%), while there are countries like Romania, Bulgaria

and Lithuania that do not exceed 4%, so the average rate for EU-27 stays at 23%.

There is also an increase in trade over the Internet in the business environment. In B2B (data from

Eurostat) Ireland is in the lead, with 54% of the companies that have purchased through the

Internet, followed by Germany (52%) and the UK (49%). Spain is located at position number 15,

since only 16% of companies have made purchases online.

BUSINESS TO BUSINESS

Electronic markets and provider directories, known as platforms Business to Business (B2B), which

emerged with the aim to facilitate the creation of new trading relationships between companies

or support relationships, involve the adoption of transactional mechanisms in which the presence

of new technologies is not limited to performing a mere supporting role, but largely determine

how to develop business relationships. There is still little use of these markets by European

companies, with only 6%. Countries that stand out in this area are the most active in the B2B in

general, these are the Nordic countries, the UK and Germany (8%), while the position of Spain is

at the height of France or Ireland with 4%.



3.1.2. Market shares of e-commerce software platforms

The most representative platforms are represented on Figure 60:

Magento is the leader with a 26.2% share and Zen Cart is the second most widespread with 13%.

These are followed by VirtueMart, Prestashop and OsCommerce with a 12.1% , 10.8% and 7.7%

share. The other platforms have a fee not exceeding 4.6%.

Figure 60. Online sales data of the surveyed companies

This time, 1,623 of those sites were e-commerce websites. This top would expect to find a greater

distribution of shares to enterprise-class solutions. The results, quite interesting, reveal an

increased presence of IBM Websphere and ATG, but Magento is still the leader with almost a

quarter of the quota.

As for trends, Magento, Opencart and Prestashop have been growing strongly for some years,

while ZenCart and Oscommerce deflating, the latter very accused.

EMPHASIS OF POSITIVE ASPECTS OF THE PRINCIPAL PLATFORMS

Magento is built on the Zend Framework, to ensure that the base code is secure and scalable. The

reasons for choosing Zend Framework are many, but at a basic level, the Zend Framework

provides a library of object-oriented code, with a commitment to a solid company behind it.

Using this framework, Magento was built with three basic principles in mind:

• Flexibility: every solution should be as unique as the businesses that are behind it. The

code allows seamless Magento customization.

• Upgradeability: separating the kernel code, the community and customizations, Magento

can be customized easily without losing the ability to upgrade.

• Speed and Security: coding standards used by developers, follow best practices to

maximize the efficiency of the software and provide a secure online showcase.



ZenCart is a system for creating virtual stores; it is Open Source and is programmed in PHP using a

MySQL database. It is very easy, both for installation and use, having a control panel ready to

upload products. This is achieved in a short time to get an online catalog ready to sell. Another

advantage is that it has a large number of users who contribute with their enhancements and

modules, as other open source projects. Thanks to this module, for most payment gateways

translations for the system, templates, and many more improvements can be found.

The main advantages of Virtuemart are its simplicity and that it leverages all flexibility of Joomla.

It has more than 3.000 Joomla extensions offering all imaginable functionality. If a business model

and attracting traffic were based on the creation of content or the generation of community, then

perhaps Joomla+Virtuemart, together with some extensions of Joomla (Jomsocial, Mosets Tree)

would be the preferred option.

In summary, it can be said that Virtuemart flexible content management system like Joomla

allows creating a catalog or online store. Best of all is the ease of updating both the content of a

website and online store.

Prestashop is mounted on PHP, the database used is MySQL and also feeds on Smarty templates

(thanks to which the system is lighter). The basic features needed to mount Prestashop are:

Server Linux, Unix, or Windows, Apache Web server, PHP 5.0 or higher, MySQL 5.0 or higher.

The main advantages of Prestashop are:

• Easy installation

• A large and stable community with a great amount of free modules

• Intuitive management and ease of use

• Many free and paid templates

• A very simple set to introduce new languages and translations from the control panel

One advantage of Oscommerce is that its hosting requirements are very low. For installation, it is

practically just needed that the web server has available PHP, APACHE and MYSQL to function.

However, OsCommerce takes much longer on the market than other platforms, so it has a more

archaic structure, but it has lately made important update versions, and it also has a great

community that provides disinterested assistance.

3.1.3. Model integration description

For the integration of the Kidsize tool in the e-commerce environment, OZONGO proposes an

open solution to be recognized and accepted by the entire ICT community standards.

With this version, we get the system maintenance, we are closed, but have the potential for a

large sector that can meet the communication protocols between Kidsize tool and e-commerce

environment, making any adjustment for possible improvement. It would also guarantee the

same scalability.

The integration in the software and the standards used for adaptation are described next.

INTEGRATION IN SOFTWARE

Much of the activity will standardize and integrate into a system. It should be noted that in most

of the cases, the system requires certain adjustments to comply with the process and, thus, will

adapt to the required process.



We need to implement a communication bridge between Kidsize system and e-commerce

platform. Unnecessary functionality and new components need to be removed to increase

communication on this bridge, in order to have the result we want.

WEB SERVICE

In the Kidsize Project, the web service of the e-commerce will have a set of protocols and

standards used for exchanging data between applications. Different software applications

developed in different programming languages and executed on any platform can use web

services to exchange data on computer networks like the Internet. Interoperability is achieved by

adopting open standards.

The standards to be implemented are:

• Web Services Protocol Stack: the set of services and protocols for Web services.

• XML (Extensible Markup Language ): the standard format for the data to be exchanged.

• SOAP (Simple Object Access Protocol) or XML -RPC (XML Remote Procedure Call):

protocols on which the exchange is established.

• Other protocols: XML data can be sent from one application to another using standard

protocols like HTTP (Hypertext Transfer Protocol), FTP (File Transfer Protocol) or SMTP

(Simple Mail Transfer Protocol).

• WSDL (Web Services Description Languages): the language of the public interface for Web

services. It is an XML -based description of functional requirements necessary for

communication with Web services.

• UDDI (Universal Description, Discovery and Integration): protocol for publishing the

information of Web services to check which web services are available.

• WS -Security (Web Service Security): security protocol accepted as a standard by OASIS

(Organization for the Advancement of Structured Information Standards). It ensures the

authentication of actors and confidentiality of messages sent.

3.2. Survey to e-commerce managers

The results of the survey are structured in three main blocks:

• Sells and returns in online channel

• Characterization of e-commerce sites

• Needs, expectations and barriers for the integration of the Kidsize tool in e-commerce

3.2.1. Sells and returns in online channel

Around 50% of the childrenswear companies have a conversion rate of their online store of less

than 5% (Figure 61). The conversion rate is an e-Commerce term most commonly used to

describe the act of converting site visitors into paying customers.



Figure 61. Conversion rate of online stores

The next figure shows the data about returns or exchanges of childrenswear e-commerce. As can

be seen, returns or exchanges due to sizing constitute less than 20% of the purchases. The main

reason for the return or exchange of garments related to fitting is that the garment is too small.

Regarding the garments with the most returns or exchanges, the answers are very variable, but

full body rompers (34%) seem the garment mostly returned.

There is not a clear tendency of the main age range with the most returns or exchanges.

47%

20%

20%

0%13%

0%

What is the conversion rate of your

online store?

Less than 5%

Between 5% and 10%

Between 10% and 20%

Between 20% and 30%

Between 30% and 40%

More than 40%

77%

0%

23%

Do you handle many returns or

exchanges related to sizing?

Returns or exchanges

related to sizing constitute

less than 20% of the

purchases



between 20% and 40% of

the purchases



more than 40% of the

purchases

42%

8%

50%

What is the main reason for the

return or exchange of garments

related to sizing?

I do not know

The garment is too big

The garment is too

small



Figure 62. Data about returns or exchanges of childrenswear e-commerce

3.2.2. Characterization of e-commerce sites

As can be seen on Figure 63 the e-commerce platform mostly used by the companies is Magento

(around 40%). The following platform mostly used is a personalized platform (27%).

Figure 63. E-commerce platforms

In the e-commerce sites of the surveyed companies, regarding the description of each garment,

the most displayed information is price, images of the garments and size. Only a 31% of the

companies show information related to fitting.

9%

8%0%

0%

8%

34%8%

8%

8%

17%

What type of garment is the most

returned or exchanged due to fitting

problems?

T-shirts

Shirts

Sweaters

Jackets

Coats

Full body rompers

Bodysuits

Dresses

Skirts

Trousers

37%

27%

36%

What main age range do the most

returned or exchanged garments

belong to?

0-3 years

3-8 years

8-12 years

27%

40%

6%0%

0%0%

7%

0%

13%

7%

What is your e-commerce platform?

A personalized platform

Magento

Zencart

VirtueMart

Prestashop

osCommerce

Magento EE

Volusion

Hybris

E-Majine



Figure 64. Information included in the garment description in the website

Information of images displayed in e-commerce sites

Figure 65 shows the characteristics of the images generation for e-commerce sites. Most of the

companies have to upload 1 or 2 images of the garment for their visualization in the e-commerce

sites. The most used format in which images are generated/stored is .jpeg. The companies use

different sizes for generating images, however, the most used sizes are 6 months, 4 years, 1

month and 8 years. Moreover, around 80% of the companies use images of each garment

combined with other complementary ones. A low percentage of companies use 3D images of the

garment or images of the garments on mannequins.

8

31

54

54

62

69

69

77

85

85

92

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100

Information about fashion trends

Information related to fitting

Tips on how to wash the garment

Recommendations related to complementary garments


Information about the available models of the garment

Colors

Information about composition and garment textiles

Sizes

Images of the garments

Price

%

What type of information is included in the description of each garment

in the website?

8%

38%

38%

8%8%

How many images of each garment

have to be uploaded for their

visualization in the website?

None

1

2

3

More than 38

15

23

62

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100

,gif

.eps

.jpg

.jpeg

%

Specify the format in which images are

generated/stored



Figure 65. Information of images displayed in e-commerce sites

Information of sizes displayed in e-commerce sites

E-commerce sites normally show the size information within each garment description (when

clients select the garment to buy). There are companies that show the size information at the

home page too. Around the 55% of companies, show the size information in years and

centimeters.

The size information normally is displayed by sizing charts, showing the key Measurements

depending on the garment. Finally, the most used formats for texts is .doc, .csv and .xls.

8

8

8

8

8

8

8

15

15

23

23

31

31

0 20 40 60 80 100

9M

12M

18M

24M

2Y

10Y

16Y

3M

6Y

1M

8Y

6M

4Y

%

What common clothing sizes do

you use for generating images?

8

15

62

69

85

0 20 40 60 80 100

3D images of the garment

Images of the garments on

mannequins

Images of the garments worn

by child models

2D images of the garment

Image of each garment

combined with other

complementary ones

%

What are your current methods for

producing images of the clothing?

8%

46%

46%

Where is the information about sizes

located in the website?

In the home page, it can be

looked up before selecting

the garment

Within each garment,

when selecting the size to

buy

Both

23%

23%54%

What information about sizes is

included in the website?

Information of the size in

years


centimeters


years and centimeters



Figure 66. Information of sixes displayed in e-commerce sites

3.2.3. Needs, expectations and barriers for the integration of the Kidsize tool in e-commerce

3.2.3.1. Utility of the Kidsize system

As can be seen on Figure 67 e-commerce managers consider that Kidsize tool could be useful for

selling childrenswear online (around 83%). Moreover, all participants consider that this tool

could solve the fitting problems of online shopping.

Figure 67. Utility of the Kidsize tool

69%

15%

8%8%

How is the information about sizes

displayed?

Sizing charts with the

principal measures

depending on the

garment

Measures of the garment

according to the size,

indicated on the desired

garment

Example model,

indicating the

corresponding size for the

height and measures of

the modelTips on how to wear the

garment depending on

fashion trends or the kid’s

constitution

8

23

23

31

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100

.XML

.xls

.csv

.doc

%

Specify the format in which texts are

generated/stored

83%

17%

Do you find the KIDSIZE system useful

to sell children’s wear online?

Yes

No



3.2.3.2. Requirements for the Kidsize system


The companies surveyed were asked to choose between the three following alternatives for

representing the garment fitting (Figure 68). As can be seen in the following figure, all participants

prefer the alternative C, a 3D view of the garment worn, with the most critical fitting areas

highlighted.

A participant chose the alternative C, but with the condition that the visual indication of the

fitting was easier (for example, changing color).

Alternative A

Alternative B

Alternative C

0% of participants 0% of participants 100% of participants

Figure 68. Alternatives for representing the garment fitting

Around 91% of participants consider that, in addition to the best fitted size for children, the

visualization of fitting should provide one size bigger and one size smaller of the garment.

Moreover, they prefer a virtual “try on” software with minimal requirements for the user (no

special web-browser, plug-ins, fast execution…), than a sophisticated software (Figure 69).

Figure 69. Information about fitting

0%

9%

91%

What information about fitting

would you find useful to offer the

customers to assess if the size is

suitable?

To see the fitting of a

larger size


smaller size


smaller size and a larger

size

25%

75%

For the virtual ‘try on’ software,

which aspect is most important for

you?

Sophisticated visuals

(3D graphics, rotable

view, high definition,

etc.)

Minimal requirements

on the user (no special

web-browser plug-ins,

fast execution)



Regarding other display functions, participants consider more interesting that many garments

could be worn at the same time (Figure 70). The other preferred options are that the areas that

do not have a good fitting appear highlighted in the avatar and a view of 360%.

Figure 70. Other display functions

Regarding other information provided to clients, participants consider important to provide tips

about how to measure (92%). The following preferred option is to provide opinions of other

users regarding the garment fitting.

Figure 71. Information provided to clients

17

25

50

67

83

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100

To be able to visualize several postures of the model

That when just one garment is selected, the system shows a

complementary one by default (e.g., if a T-shirt is selected,

the 3D model wears also trousers)

A 360º visualization

That the areas that do not have a good fitting appear

highlighted in the avatar

That many garments can be worn at the same time

%

Indicate which visualization functions would you find useful, and you would like

to include in the KIDSIZE system for your customers

8

25

33

42

58

92

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100

I would not like it to offer more information, just to focus on

the fitting

A recommendation about complementary garments

Composition and textiles of the garment

Tips on how to wash the garment

Opinions of other users regarding the fitting of the garment

Tips about how to measure

%

What other information of the garment would you like KIDSIZE to offer

to your customers?



Kidsize management by the company

As can be seen on Figure 72, around 33% of the companies would insert their stock in Kidsize tool

without any problem. One 25% of the companies would insert it if only they have access, and

other 25% of the companies would insert it if they do not have to spend a long time. Other

companies would want the integration to be automatic.

Figure 72. Inserting the stock of the store

Regarding the time spent introducing the stock, around 30% of the e-commerce managers would

spend half an hour.

Around 35% of the companies would be able to provide two or more images of each garment

typology on a flat surface for the Kidsize system.

Figure 73. Preferences for introducing the stock of the online store

33%

25%

25%

0% 17%

Would you introduce your stock in the KIDSIZE

system?

Yes, without any problem

Yes. If only I have access

No, if it requires much time

No, in any case

Other

30%

0%10%

20%

20%

0%

20%

How much time would it take you to

introduce data of each garment in

KIDSIZE?

Half an hour

15 minutes

10 minutes

From 6 to 7 minutes

From 4 to 5 minutes

From 2 to 3 minutes

I could not waste time

35%

29%

24%

12%

What types of images would you be

able to provide us of the different

garments’ typologies?

Two or more images of

each garment typology on

a flat surface

Two or more images of

each garment typology on

a suitable mannequin

Close-up photos of the

fabrics

None of the above



4. Conclusions

A study of usage patterns in existing European e-commerce platforms has been performed in

order to in order to facilitate the integration of the Kidsize tool.

The main results of this study are:

• First, we can observe that e-commerce intended for consumers is increasing, mainly due

to the improvement of the websites of the companies which have a high download speed

and provide an environment that what you are looking for is easy to find.

• On the other hand, the main e- commerce software platforms have been identified. We

appreciate that there is a variety in the current e-commerce platforms. However,

Magneto is the leader in the market. Focusing on childrenswear online companies,

Magneto is the most used platform but many companies use a personalized platform.

• Finally, a Kidsize integration model has been proposed. For the integration of the Kidsize

tool in e-commerce environment, a solution by the open is proposed in order to be

compatible with all platforms. A communication bridge between Kidsize system and e-

commerce platform will be performed. Moreover, a set of protocols and standards will be

used for exchanging data between applications.

Moreover, a study with e-commerce managers has been performed. The main results of this

study are:

• First, the e-commerce penetration in childrenswear sector has been analyzed. Nowadays,

childrenswear companies have a conversion rate of their online store very low, less than

5%. It seems the main reason for the return or exchange of garments related to fitting is

that the garment is too small.

• Second, the management process of e-commerce sites has been analyzed. The following

table shows the main characteristics of the current management process of e-commerce

sites:

Table 35. Main characteristics of the current management process of e-commerce sites

E-commerce

Platform

• The e-commerce platform most used by the companies is

Magento

Garment

description

• The most displayed information by e-commerce is:

o Garments images

o Price

o Size

Garment

images

• Most of the companies have to upload 1 or 2 images of

garments for their visualization in the e-commerce sites.

• The most used format in which images are

generated/stored is .jpeg.

• Most of companies use images of each garment combined

with other complementary ones.

• A low percentage of companies use 3D images of the

garment or images of the garments on mannequins.

Size

information • The size information normally is displayed by sizing charts,

showing the key Measurements depending on the



garment.

• The most used formats for texts is .doc, .csv and .xls.

• Finally, the needs, expectations and barriers for the integration of the Kidsize tool in e-

commerce have been identified. The next table presents the main requirements of the

Kidsize tool:

Table 36. Main requirements of the Kidsize tool from e-commerce managers

Utility

• Most of companies consider Kidsize tool useful for selling

childrenswear online.

• They expect that this tool could solve the fitting problems

of online shopping.

Fitting

visualization

• E-commerce companies prefer 3D view of the garment

worn.

• The most critical fitting areas should be highlighted.

• The visualization of fitting should provide one size bigger

and one size smaller of the garment.

• Companies prefer a virtual “try on” software with

minimal requirements for the user (no special web-

browser, plug-ins, fast execution…).

• More than one garment could be worn at the same time.

• The 3D view should have a view of 360%.

Other

information

• Companies consider important to provide tips about how

to measure.

• Other preferred option is to provide opinions of other

users regarding the garment fitting.

Kidsize

management

• Some companies would insert their stock in the Kidsize

tool if only they have access.

• Other companies would insert their stock in the Kidsize

tool if they do not have to spend a long time.

• A high percentage of the companies would able to provide

two or more images of each garment typology on a flat

surface.



T1.3. Characterization of the use of mannequins and scalabilities

for patterning and sizing garments in childrenswear industry

1. Introduction

Patterning of garments is the process by which the pieces that make up a garment are drawn in

2D –either on a physical means (paper or cardboard), or digitally (CAD patterning program)– so

that when they are joined together by the seams, they make up the garment according to the

fitting criteria that the designer has established.

The pattern makers are the people that break down the drawings of the designers into the

necessary pieces to configure the garment that will be worn, and adapt the garment style to the

body dimensions of the target population.

The adaptation is based on the measurements contained in the sizing charts. Currently, there are

no standardized sizing charts, and therefore each manufacturer has one or more charts according

to the market sector aimed for.

It is important to highlight the following aspects of the measurements represented in a sizing

chart for garment manufacturing:

• The measurements represented in the charts can be of two types:

o Body measurements, when the value comes directly from reading of the

measurement device (commonly and traditionally, a measuring tape).

o Clothing measurements, when the value is corrected with the minimum ease

allowances, specific for each type of garment.

• The measurements contained in the manufacturers’ charts are usually obtained from

discrete studies and with reduced samples. Its validity and use is maintained for many

years because realizing these studies is very laborious.

• For a matter of pragmatism and above all aesthetics, the measurements contained in the

charts are usually based on a beauty canon socially accepted. This means that some

measurements are related by means of simple mathematical rules. This way, it is easier to

scale patterns from one size to another. In addition, the minimum collection of

measurements can be reduced, since some Measurements are obtained from others.

• According to the patterning system used in the company, the collection of measurements

can vary slightly from one chart to another.

The base size is the size used for the pattern design of each garment, which is usually established

for each population group. The size ranges of the garments are decision of the market strategy of

each company.

For the design fit verification of the garments, and due to the difficulty to use live models,

childrenswear companies usually use mannequins to develop garment patterns and check the

fitting of the prototypes. Some commercial children families of mannequins, obtained as a result

of anthropometric children studies are; Children Formax®5, ASTM Standard Children mannequins

6

5 Children Formax ®. Cadmodelling.

http://www.cadmodelling.it/english/cadmodelling_mannequins_formax_baby_kids_teenager.html 6 ASTM Standard – Children. Alvanon (http://www.alvanon.com/)



and MNQ 0-127, used as a standard in Spain. It could be conceptualized that perfect garment

fitting is obtained with a children body shape similar to the mannequins. Dissimilarities with

mannequin body shape will produce unfitting regions.

The objective of this task is to characterize the patterning and sizing process of SMEs using the

mannequins and their scalabilities. This characterization is needed for two purposes, on the one

hand, to better define multi-fitting algorithms and the visualization tool, as they are based on

comparison of 3D child body shape with mannequins dimensions; and on the other hand, to

design a manufacturer interface easy to use and efficient according with SMEs processes.

2. Methodology

For the mannequins’ characterization, an in-situ analysis of the daily designers and pattern

makers’ work has been performed by IBV by means of workshops at the facilities of the project’s

SMEs. ISRI also discussed with the SMEs their perspective regarding the virtual try-on.

Moreover, the most relevant aspects of design and patterning processes have been gathered by

means of online surveys prepared by IBV and distributed to manufacturers of childrenswear

aimed at pattern makers, with the help of the project associations (CFE, ASEPRI, NovaCHILD and

Finatex).

2.1. Workshops at the SMEs’ facilities – patterning and fitting

The workshops were aimed at understanding as detailed as possible the processes of patterning,

fitting and sizing of their garments, and analyze the measurements considered key in fitting and in

assigning sizes.

People with different design profiles within the companies attended the workshops, such as

designers, pattern makers, computer specialists, and marketing managers.

At the workshops, in the first place, an explanation of the Kidsize project was provided as a frame

to the workshop activities. In the second place, several aspects were discussed with the assistants,

among others:

• The age ranges of their garments

• The sizes of their garments

• The base sizes in which their garments are designed

• The method used to test the fitting of the garments

• The measurements of their charts used and how are they defined

• The measurements considered key by the companies in size selection and fitting

evaluation of the garments

Finally, the companies organized a tour around their facilities, in order to have a better

understanding of their daily work.

2.2. SMEs’ assessment of virtual try-on approach

Two different approaches of the fitting visualization system were presented and several aspects

were discussed with the companies, such as:

7 MNQ 0-12. Asepri. http://www.asepri.es/productos-servicios/maniquies-articulados-de-medidas-normalizadas-

para-el-diseno-y-patronaje-de-prendas-infantiles/233082.aspx



• The current methods for producing and uploading images of the clothing

• The content and format of the data stored in the website about the clothing

• The restrictions for image capture

• The scope and requirements for the virtual try-on

2.3. Online survey to manufacturers of childrenswear aimed at pattern makers

An online questionnaire was prepared for manufacturers of childrenswear aimed at pattern

makers. The aim was to gather information regarding the design process of children's wear, above

all related to fitting and sizing of kids’ garments.

The questionnaire was distributed to 30 companies of the three target countries: Spain, France,

and Finland. The companies fulfilled the requirement of being manufacturers of garments for

children aged at least 0-12 years, and that preferably commercialized them on their own physical

shops or own online shops. The basic requirements for the pattern maker profile were:

• They should be responsible for pattern making, scaling, sizing, and fitting of garments in

the company

• They should have a minimum experience of 3 years as pattern makers of childrenswear.

In this questionnaire, companies were asked about the following aspects:

Information of the company:

• The size of the company

• The different typologies of garments manufactured

• The age and size ranges of their garments

Design and patterning of the garments:

• The name of the body measurements used and their definition for baby and/or children

• The base size used to design garments for babies and/or children

• The body measurement values of the ideal person of the base size used to design clothes

for baby and/or children

• The key measurements for each garment typology manufactured

• The types of charts usually used (body and/or clothing measurement charts)

• If companies would introduce information regarding body measurements in the Kidsize

system



3. Results

3.1. Workshops at the SMEs’ facilities – patterning and fitting

At the workshops, a lot of information was gathered regarding the patterning and fitting

processes of the SMEs. A review of this information can be found on this section, and a detailed

description will be provided on Deliverable 1.2. Specifications for Kidsize web application for

assisted fitting selection of children garment, due to confidentiality issues.

The information gathered from the workshops is summarized in the following paragraphs.

One of the SMEs is a childrenswear company offering garments which cover the full age range of

ages: from 0 months to 16 years. They release two collections a year (fall/winter and

spring/summer), and distribute their garments through an extensive network of specialized multi-

brand stores, giving the brand a significant domestic and international presence. They have their

own online shop present in three European countries. They make their garments according to

three main categories: newborn, baby and child.

The other SME has over 30 years of experience in the childrenswear industry designing, producing

and distributing children’s fashion for babies and children up to 14 years old. They release two

collections a year (fall/winter and spring/summer). Their target customers are private medium to

upscale consumers as well as small boutiques and large department stores. They have strong

international presence on European, Middle East and American markets. They do not have their

own online shop, but sell their products through other websites, such as Privalia. They have two

brands.

Both SMEs segment sizes considering the height of the child as a reference, rather than their age.

They use mannequins as an essential tool to verify the fit of the garments, and one of the SMEs

uses real children as well.

Their pattern makers work with body measurement charts based on ASEPRI’s for making the

garments –and as a reference in size selection–, and with some of ASEPRI’s mannequins MNQ 0-

12 to verify fitting (Figure 74).

Figure 74. ASEPRI’s mannequins.

ASEPRI’s body measurement charts are the result of an anthropometric study of the international

children’s population carried out by ASEPRI. The conclusions of such study are based on the

height of the child as the main reference for establishing sizes, with a scaling sequence of 6 cm for

babies and 12 cm for boys and girls up to 12 years, leaving the correspondence with age as

guidance information.

ASEPRI’s mannequins MNQ 0-12 are whole body articulated mannequins for design and

patterning, with standardized sizes and measurements, matching those of their body

measurement charts. These mannequins cover ages from 0 to 12 years.



Table 37 shows ASEPRI’s mannequin sizes.

Table 37. ASEPRI’s mannequin MNQ 0-12 sizes.

Size Approximate age

58 cm 1 month

62 cm 3 months

68 cm 6 months

74 cm 12 months

92 cm 2 years

104 cm 4 years

116 cm 6 years

128 cm 8 years

152 cm boy 12 years

152 cm girl 12 years

Both SMEs manufacture samples of their garments for babies and for children in certain base

sizes, verify their fit, and if it is considered adequate, they scale them to the rest of the sizes.

During the workshops, the measurements considered key in fitting, regarding several typologies

of garments were discussed.

3.2. SMEs’ assessment of virtual try-on approach

The approaches considered for the Kidsize Virtual Try On module fall into two broad categories:

• 2D Imaging, using image overlay techniques

• Rotatable 3D Imaging, using body and clothing meshes

The methodology of the two approaches and their advantages and disadvantages were discussed

with the SMEs, together with their implications in terms of imaging requirements.

2D IMAGING APPROACH

This technology entails overlaying 2D images of the garment on to the image of the child. The

image of the child is to be uploaded by the parent, or taken online through the PC’s webcam or

smartphone’s camera. Once on the server, the uploaded image is processed using face

recognition software to automatically identify the child’s face. The location of the face together

with edge-detection processing will identify the most probable location for rendering the selected

garment.

Scaling algorithms will then resize and position the selected garment image and attempt a best fit

of the garment overlaid on top of the child’s photo. The scaling algorithm can be constrained so

that the width to height ratio corresponds with actual garment sizes. Finally, the child and

garment images are digitally merged and sent to the user’s web-browser for display.

In terms of garment image capture, a single photo of each article of clothing taken on a flat

surface would be the minimum requirement, although an image taken on a mannequin may be

preferable for greater realism of the final merged image.

This way, the advantages and disadvantages of the 2D imaging approach are summarized next:

Advantages:



• Lowest requirements on the manufacturer / supplier in terms of the number and types of

garment images required

• Processing is done on the server, so the load on the web-browser should be low

Disadvantages:

• Simple 2D front view only

• Requires the child subject’s pose to approximately match that of the garment image

• Results may be poor if the uploaded image is poor quality and the software is unable to

correctly identify the head and body outline – or if the child subject is wearing clothing

that is bulkier than the overlaid garment image.

3D IMAGING APPROACH

In computer graphics, rendering a 3D visual model of an object requires:

• A 3D mesh of the object

• A texture image file

This allows software to show a rotatable (but non-animated) 3D view of the object.

The 3D mesh is a collection of points on the surface of the object, joined together by lines to form

polygons, typically triangles (Figure 76). Meshes of clothing and the human body are typically

complex with a moderately high polygon count and must be created by hand using specialist

software – or possibly from 3D scanning of the object - or a combination of the two.

The texture file is a photographic mosaic of the object’s surface (Figure 75). Algorithms apply the

texture surface detail by ‘wrapping’ the texture file’s mosaic image around the mesh to create a

realistic 3D representation.

Therefore a 3D Virtual try-on module will require a mesh of the child and meshes for the clothing,

together with a texture file comprising a composite 2D projection image of the child’s surface

including face, hands, clothing etc.

Figure 75 Texture Image File

Figure 76 A 3D Mesh



Typically the mesh and texture file are created together, by 3D artists using software such as

Autodesk 3DS Max. The software automatically calculates the transforms for storing the 3D

surface detailing into the 2D texture image.

As the cost and time of creating separate 3D models for each new garment is likely to be

excessive, a different solution will be required for a 3D Virtual try-on. A possible approach would

be to create a collection of 3D child meshes, each with their own collection of clothing meshes. To

create a 3D render of a new garment, the closest matching clothing mesh would be selected. A

texture template document would help transform standard garment images into a new texture

file. The new texture file would be stored in a database for later retrieval of that garment.

The customer’s uploaded image of their child would aid in the selection of the appropriate child

mesh. Optionally, the child’s face could be overlaid onto the stored texture image.

In terms of requirement on the manufacturer, as a minimum a texture file will need to be created

for each garment. In practice, this would entail cutting out image segments from the

manufacturer’s photos and fitting them within the texture file. Most likely, these textures will be

created and stored in a database for later retrieval and application to the mesh.

The key problem with this approach is when no existing mesh (in the database) is a good match

for a new garment. For example, Figure 77 depicts a 3D child model wearing shorts and t-shirt. If

the new garment is a t-shirt with similar 3D topology to the green one illustrated, then a new

texture file can be created and applied to the existing t-shirt mesh. However, if the new design

has a collar and longer sleeves, then the existing t-shirt mesh will not be suitable. A new mesh will

need to be created and added to the database. Similarly, a range of meshes for pairs of shorts will

be required for different leg lengths (above the knee and below the knee).

Figure 77 Rotatable 3D Child Model

This way, the advantages and disadvantages of the 3D imaging approach are summarized next:

Advantages:

• Higher quality 360-degree rotatable view of a child wearing the garment

• The quality of the uploaded image is less important

Disadvantages:

• Requires a broad selection of clothing meshes or else garments may be rendered

distorted or with missing features

• Consequently non-standard designs will require new clothing meshes to be created

• A new texture file composite image will be required for each new garment, though

software could assist in this process

• May be a delay for the user in load and execution time within a web-browser



MANUFACTURERS’ PERSPECTIVE

The project’s manufacturers both currently take flat 2D garment images.

Of the two options considered for the Virtual Try On module, the 2D approach is the least onerous

for the garment manufacturers and resellers. It fits reasonably well the manufacturers’ current

practices regarding flat image photography.

With tight margins and product lifespan of a few months, an approach to the Virtual Try On that

does not require additional expenditure is likely to find favor. On this basis, the current 2D

approach looks most favorable. However, different 2D and 3D schemes will continue to be

investigated within the following tasks.

3.3. Online survey to manufacturers of childrenswear aimed at pattern makers

The results of the online survey to manufacturers of childrenswear aimed at pattern makers are

structured in five main blocks:

• Information of the company

• Pattern design of garments for babies

• Patter design of garments for children

• General pattern design for garments

• Fitting of the garments

3.3.1. Information of the company

Most of the companies surveyed, 63%, were French, 30% were Finish, 20% were Spanish, and 3%

were Italian (Figure 78).

Figure 78. Countries of the manufacturers.

Figure 79 shows the size of the companies surveyed. Most of the companies, 63%, have between

50 and 250 employees, 20% of the companies have more than 250 employees, and 17% of the

companies have less than 50 employees. Therefore, 80% of the companies surveyed are SMEs.

20%

63%

13%

3%

Select your country

Spain

France

Finland

Italy



Figure 79. Size of the companies surveyed.

Figure 80 shows whether the companies surveyed commercialize their garments through their

own physical shops and/or online shop. Approximately 80% of the companies do have their own

physical and/or online shop, while approximately 20% of them do not.

Figure 80. Companies with own physical or online shop.

Figure 81 shows the typologies of garments that the companies surveyed design or manufacture.

As can be seen, most of the companies manufacture all typologies of garments, being the less

frequent one the sport clothes (only 29% of the companies surveyed), and the most frequent

ones the T-shirts and the trousers (more than 80% of the companies surveyed).

Other garments manufactured as well by some of the companies, which are not reflected on

Figure 81, are nightwear.

17%

63%

20%

What is the size of your company?

Less than 50

employees

Between 50 and 250

employees

More than 250

employees

77%

23%

Do you commercialize your garments

through your own physical shops or

online shop?

Yes

No



Figure 81. Garments manufactured by the companies.

Figure 82 shows with which target population companies work with. Approximately 80% of the

companies surveyed work with babies and children, 14% of the companies work only with

children, and 3% work only with babies.

Figure 82. Target population.

Most of the companies working with both babies and children classify their target population in

three categories, newborn, babies and children; however, the age ranges covered in each

category depend very much on each company. From the companies that manufacture for babies –

being it just babies or babies and children–, approximately 43% manufacture for babies up to 36

months, 35% manufacture for babies up to 24 months, 13% manufacture for babies up to 23

months, 4% for up to 18 months, and 4% for up to 4 years.

Most of the manufacturers surveyed use sizes based on months and years. The sizes usually used

are:

• 0 months • 1 year

• 1 month • 2 years

84

74

77

68

65

65

68

71

68

81

61

68

29

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100

T-shirts

Shirts

Jackets

Sweaters

Coats

Full body Rompers

Short Bodysuit

Dresses

Skirts

Trousers

Dungarees

Underwear or bathwear

Sport clothes

%

Indicate the garments that you design of manufacture

3%

83%

14%

What is your target population?

Only babies

Babies and children

Only children



• 3 months • 3 years






• 9 years

• 10 years

• 11 years

• 12 years

• Etc.

However, most French companies work more with size 23 months than with size 24 months.

There are also companies that use height expressed in cm as their sizing system, mainly Finish.

3.3.2. Pattern design of garments for babies

3.3.2.1. Body measurements

On the survey, several body measurements usually used for baby patterning were described.

Pattern makers were asked to say if they work with each of the measurements, and if they define

them as it was illustrated

Figure 83 shows the body measurements for babies used by the companies surveyed. All pattern

makers use one or another of the measurements described. Of these measurements, all pattern

makers use the head girth, abdominal girth and chest girth. Nearly all of them, 93%, use the

height. Other common measurements used are the arm length and the crotch length (87% and

80% of the pattern makers respectively). Less common measurements are the front waist length

and thigh girth, used by 67% of the pattern makers, and the shoulder length, wrist girth and upper

arm girth, used by 60% of the pattern makers.

There are more pattern makers that do not use the scye depth compared to those that do (60%

do not, compared to 33% that do). There are also more pattern makers that do not use the

cervical height vertical, standing, compared to those that do (almost 50%, compared to 40%).

40% of the pattern makers do not use the neck girth, but they think it is an interesting

measurement, and 33% of the pattern makers do not use the upper arm girth but also consider it

interesting.



Figure 83. Body measurements used by pattern makers, babies.

Figure 84 shows whether the pattern makers define the different body measurements as it was

described or not. Most of the pattern makers define the measurements the same. All pattern

makers define the arm length, the chest girth and the height the same, and almost all of them,

93%, describe the thigh, head, wrist, upper arm, neck and abdominal girths the same.

The 33% of the pattern makers define the front waist length differently, and almost 30% the body

rise. Some pattern makers define other measurements differently as well.

Figure 84. Definition of body measurement by pattern makers, babies.

27

40

33

20

33

13

7

7

7

13

20

7

7

47

13

7

20

27

7

27

60

40

27

13

93

27

100

100

47

60

60

100

67

60

87

67

33

47

53

80

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100

Height

Cervical height vertical, standing

Chest girth

Abdominal girth

Neck Girth

Upper-arm girth

Wrist girth

Head girth

Tight girth

Shoulder length

Arm length (shoulder to wrist)

Front waist length

Scye depth

Back waist length

Body rise

Crotch length

%

Body measurements used by manufacturers of baby garments

Yes

No

No, but I find it

is interesting

20

7

7

7

7

7

7

13

33

13

13

27

13

100

80

100

93

93

93

93

93

93

87

100

67

87

87

73

87

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100

Height


Chest girth

Abdominal girth

Neck Girth

Upper-arm girth

Wrist girth

Head girth

Tight girth

Shoulder length

Arm length (shoulder to wrist)

Front waist length

Scye depth

Back waist length

Body rise

Crotch length

%

Manufacturers of baby garments that define measurements as established

Yes

No



Other measurements used by the pattern makers surveyed are:

• Side length: measured from the waist down to the bottom of feet

• Shoulder height from neck point

• Distance from the neck point to the neckline

• Knee girth

• Ankle girth

• Arm length: measured from the 7th

cervical to the wrist

• Shoulder width: from shoulder point to shoulder point straight across the back

• Pelvis girth instead of hip girth

• Hip girth: the maximum horizontal girth of the body at the widest part of the hip,

measured during normal breathing with the baby laying on a flat

• Trunk length: from the base of the neck at the level of the shoulder to the crotch with the

baby seated

• Across the chest

• Head height

Most pattern makers use special measurements in order to adapt to the natural proportions of

the body common to children. The measurements used by the pattern makers surveyed are:

• Distance from the neck point to the neckline

• Entrance girth of the head: necessary for the garments from 6 months

• Length and width of the foot for garments including room for feet (full body rompers)

3.3.2.2. Garments

Pattern makers were asked to give up to three key measurements they consider key in assigning

sizes for each of the different typologies of garments for babies. These are described next.

In T-shirts, shirts and jackets, 67% of the pattern makers consider height as the first key

measurement, and 67% of the pattern makers consider the chest girth as the second key

measurement. The third key measurement is more variable, 30% of the pattern makers consider

it is the arm length, and 20% consider the head girth, or the waist girth, and 10% consider it is the

neck girth (Figure 85).

Some pattern makers also consider as third key measurements the entrance girth of the head for

the T-shirts, the arm length, measured from the 7th

cervical to the wrist, or the pelvis girth.



Figure 85. Key measurements in T-shirts/shirts/jackets.

In coats, 67% of the pattern makers consider height as the first key measurement, and 58% of

the pattern makers consider the chest girth as the second key measurement. The arm length is

considered as the third key measurement by 45% of the pattern makers, almost 20% consider it

is the waist girth (Figure 86).

Some pattern makers also consider as third key measurement the arm length, measured from the

7th

cervical to the wrist.

Figure 86. Key measurements in coats.

In short bodysuits, almost 60% of the pattern makers consider height as the first key

measurement, and 50% of the pattern makers consider the chest girth as the second key

measurement (while 33% consider it the first key one). The third key measurement is more

variable, for instance, 20% of the pattern makers consider it is the waist girth or the head girth

(Figure 87).

20

30

20

10

20

67

8

8

8

8

25

8

67

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100

Chest girth

Hip girth

Cervical height vertical

Head girth

Arm length

Waist girth

Height

Abdominal girth

Leg length

Neck girth

Other

%

Principal measures key in assigning sizes in T-shirts/shirts/jackets

Principal measure 1

Principal measure 2

Principal measure 3

9

45

18

9

9

9

58

8

8

8

8

8

25

8

67

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100

Chest girth

Hip girth


Head girth

Arm length

Waist girth

Height

Abdominal girth

Leg length

Neck girth

Other

%

Principal measures key in assigning sizes in coats

Principal measure 1

Principal measure 2

Principal measure 3



Some pattern makers also consider as third key measurements the arm length, measured from

the 7th

cervical to the wrist, the trunk length, the thigh girth, or the pelvis girth.

Figure 87. Key measurements in short bodysuits.

In full body rompers, almost 60% of the pattern makers consider height as the first key

measurement, while 33% consider it the chest girth. Regarding the second key measurement,

42% of the pattern makers consider it the chest girth, while almost 20% that it is the height. In

these types of garments, the leg length is considered as the third key measurement by 36% of

the pattern makers (Figure 88).

Some pattern makers also consider as third key measurements the arm length, measured from

the 7th

cervical to the wrist, the thigh girth, the crotch length, the trunk length, or the pelvis girth.

Figure 88. Key measurements in full body rompers.

In dresses, almost 70% of the pattern makers consider height as the first key measurement.

Regarding the second key measurement, 67% of the pattern makers consider it the chest girth.

In dresses, the waist girth is considered as the third key measurement by 30% of the pattern

makers (Figure 89).

20

10

20

10

10

10

20

50

8

8

8

17

8

33

8

58

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100

Chest girth

Hip girth


Head girth

Arm length

Waist girth

Height

Abdominal girth

Leg length

Neck girth

Other

%

Principal measures key in assigning sizes in short bodysuits

Principal measure 1

Principal measure 2

Principal measure 3

9

9

9

9

36

9

18

42

8

8

8

17

8

8

33

8

58

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100

Chest girth

Hip girth


Head girth

Arm length

Waist girth

Height

Abdominal girth

Leg length

Neck girth

Other

%

Principal measures key in assigning sizes in full body rompers

Principal measure 1

Principal measure 2

Principal measure 3



Figure 89. Key measurements in dresses.

In dungarees, 75% of the pattern makers consider height as the first key measurement.

Regarding the second key measurement, 50% of the pattern makers consider it the chest girth,

and 25% that it is the waist girth. The leg length is considered as the third key measurement by

55% of the pattern makers (Figure 90).

Some pattern makers also consider as third key measurements the crotch length, the trunk

length, or the pelvis girth.

Figure 90. Key measurements in dungarees.

In trousers, almost 60% of the pattern makers consider height as the first key measurement. The

waist girth is considered the second key measurement by 50% of the pattern makers. The leg

length is considered as the third key measurement by approximately 30% of the pattern makers

(Figure 91). Some pattern makers also consider as third key measurements the crotch length, or

the thigh girth.

20

10

20

30

10

10

67

8

8

17

25

8

67

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100

Chest girth

Hip girth


Head girth

Arm length

Waist girth

Height

Abdominal girth

Leg length

Neck girth

Other

%

Principal measures key in assigning sizes in dresses

Principal measure 1

Principal measure 2

Principal measure 3

8

8

8

8

50

17

50

8

25

8

8

17

75

8

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100

Chest girth

Hip girth


Head girth

Arm length

Waist girth

Height

Abdominal girth

Leg length

Neck girth

Other

%

Principal measures key in assigning sizes in dungarees

Principal measure 1

Principal measure 2

Principal measure 3



Figure 91. Key measurements in trousers.

3.3.3. Pattern design of garments for children

3.3.3.1. Body measurements

On the survey, several body measurements usually used for children patterning were described.

Pattern makers were asked to say if they work with each of the measurements, and if they define

them as it was illustrated.

Figure 92 shows the body measurements for children used by the companies surveyed. All

pattern makers use one or another of the measurements described. Of these measurements, all

pattern makers use the hip girth, waist girth and chest girth. Nearly all of them, 93%, use the

height. Other common measurements used are the arm length, the crotch length, the head girth

(used by 87% of the pattern makers) or the front waist length (used by 80% of the pattern

makers). Less common measurements are the outside leg length, thigh girth, wrist girth, or upper

arm girth, used by 67% of the pattern makers, and the back waist length and body rise, used by

60% of the pattern makers.

There are more pattern makers that do not use the cervical height vertical, standing compared to

those that do (53% do not, compared to 20% that do). Regarding the scye depth, almost 50% of

the pattern makers use it and 50% do not. There are also 40% of the pattern makers that do not

use the knee height or the neck girth.

Many of the measurements are not used by some of the pattern makers, but they consider them

interesting.

31

8

8

15

23

15

8

17

8

50

17

17

58

8

17

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100

Chest girth

Hip girth


Head girth

Arm length

Waist girth

Height

Abdominal girth

Leg length

Neck girth

Other

%

Principal measures key in assigning sizes in trousers

Principal measure 1

Principal measure 2

Principal measure 3



Figure 92. Body measurements used by pattern makers, children.

Figure 93 shows whether the pattern makers define the different body measurements as it was

described or not. Most of the pattern makers define the measurements the same. All pattern

makers define the height, chest, waist, head, and thigh girths, and the scye depth the same, and

almost all of them, 93%, describe the outside leg length, shoulder width, wrist, upper arm, and

neck girths, and the cervical height vertical, standing the same.

The 33% of the pattern makers define the hip girth differently, and almost 30% the arm length.

Some pattern makers define other measurements differently as well.

27

13

7

13

7

20

7

7

13

7

20

13

20

7

7

53

40

7

20

27

13

13

47

27

7

33

20

20

13

40

93

20

100

100

100

47

87

67

67

67

80

47

60

87

47

67

60

87

53

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100

Height


Chest Girth

Waist girth

Hip girth

Neck Girth

Head girth

Upper-arm girth

Wrist girth

Tight girth

Front waist length

Scye depth

Back waist length

Arm length

Shoulder width

Outside leg length

Body rise

Crotch length

Knee height

%

Body measurements used by manufacturers of children garments

Yes

No

No, but I find it is

interesting



Figure 93. Definition of body measurement by pattern makers, children.

Other measurements used by the pattern makers surveyed are:

• Across the chest: measured transversally above the chest, at the level of the armpits

• Knee girth

• Across the back : measured transversally at the level of the shoulder blades

• Ankle girth

• Elbow girth

• Calf girth

• Shoulder length : measured from the base of the neck to the shoulder point

• Head height : measured from the crown to the base of the neck

Some pattern makers use special measurements in order to adapt to the natural proportions of

the body common to children. The measurement used by the pattern makers surveyed is the

entrance girth of the head.

3.3.3.2. Garments

Pattern makers were asked to give up to three key measurements they consider key in assigning

sizes for each of the different typologies of garments for children. These are described next.

In T-shirts, shirts and jackets, 67% of the pattern makers consider the chest girth as the first key

measurement, and 33% of the pattern makers consider that it is the height. As the second key

measurement, 42% of the pattern makers consider it is the chest girth and 33% that it is the

height. The 44% of the pattern makers consider other measurements than the ones represented,

as the third key measurement (Figure 94).

Other third key measurements are the entrance girth of the head, arm length, and head girth.

7

33

7

7

7

20

27

29

7

7

27

13

20

100

93

100

100

67

93

100

93

93

100

80

100

73

71

93

93

73

87

80

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100

Height


Chest Girth

Waist girth

Hip girth

Neck Girth

Head girth

Upper-arm girth

Wrist girth

Tight girth

Front waist length

Scye depth

Back waist length

Arm length

Shoulder width

Outside leg length

Body rise

Crotch length

Knee height

%

Manufacturers of children garments that define measurements as established

Yes

No



Figure 94. Key measurements in T-shirts/shirts/jackets.

In coats, 67% of the pattern makers consider the chest girth as the first key measurement, and

33% of the pattern makers consider that it is the height. As the second key measurement, 33% of

the pattern makers consider it is the chest girth and 33% that it is the height. As the third key

measurement, 33% of the pattern makers consider it the neck girth and 33% the hip girth (Figure

95).

Some pattern makers also consider as third key measurements the shoulder width, and the arm

length.

Figure 95. Key measurements in coats.

In dresses, 58% of the pattern makers consider the chest girth as the first key measurement, and

42% of the pattern makers consider that it is the height. As the second key measurement, 42% of

the pattern makers consider it is the chest girth and 25% that it is the waist girth. The third key

measurement varies much among pattern makers, among the hip girth, height and waist girth

(Figure 96).

11

11

11

22

44

42

17

8

33

67

33

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100

Chest girth

Hip girth

Waist girth

Height

Neck girth

Thigh girth

Other

%

Principal measures key in assigning sizes in T-shirts/shirts/jackets

Principal measure 1

Principal measure 2

Principal measure 3

33

11

33

22

33

25

8

33

67

33

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100

Chest girth

Hip girth

Waist girth

Height

Neck girth

Thigh girth

Other

%

Principal measures key in assigning sizes in coats

Principal measure 1

Principal measure 2

Principal measure 3



Some pattern makers also consider as third key measurement the shoulder width.

Figure 96. Key measurements in dresses.

In dungarees, the key measurements are quite variable among pattern makers. The chest girth,

height, and waist girth are considered as the first key measurements by the 42%, 33%, and 25%

of the pattern makers, respectively. The hip girth, waist girth, and chest girth are considered as

the second key measurements by the 42%, 27%, and 27% of the pattern makers, respectively. As

the third key measurement, pattern makers consider height, thigh girth, and other measurements

not represented (Figure 97).

Other third key measurements are the pelvis girth, the crotch length, and the trunk length.

Figure 97. Key measurements in dungarees.

In trousers, the key measurements are quite variable among pattern makers. The waist girth, and

height are considered as the first key measurements by most of the pattern makers, 58% and

33%, respectively. The hip girth, and waist girth are considered as the second key measurements

33

25

25

8

8

42

17

25

17

58

42

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100

Chest girth

Hip girth

Waist girth

Height

Neck girth

Thigh girth

Other

%

Principal measures key in assigning sizes in dresses

Principal measure 1

Principal measure 2

Principal measure 3

9

36

9

18

27

27

36

27

9

42

25

33

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100

Chest girth

Hip girth

Waist girth

Height

Neck girth

Thigh girth

Other

%

Principal measures key in assigning sizes in dungarees

Principal measure 1

Principal measure 2

Principal measure 3



by most of the pattern makers, 58% and 33%, respectively. As the third key measurement, most

pattern makers consider height, and other measurements not represented (Figure 98).

Other third measurements considered are the pelvis girth, the crotch length, and the body rise.

Figure 98. Key measurements in trousers.

3.3.4. General pattern design for garments

Pattern makers were asked with which charts do they usually work. Figure 99 shows that 70% of

the pattern makers usually work with both types of charts, 20% only with body measurement

charts, and 10% only with clothing charts. This means that 90% of the pattern makers work with

body measurement charts.

Figure 99. Measurement charts used by pattern makers.

Pattern makers were asked what is their key body measurement increase from one size to

another, and to indicate the rupture sizes in their charts, as well as the new increases from these

sizes on for upper garments, lower garments and whole body garments. However, this

information has not been described in this report due to confidentiality issues.

The base or designing sizes used by pattern makers to manufacture their garments for babies can

be seen on Figure 100. Most pattern makers work with sizes 6 months, 3 months and 1 month.

Pattern makers have base sizes for each category they work with, namely newborn and baby. This

9

36

9

9

36

58

33

8

8

58

33

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100

Chest girth

Hip girth

Waist girth

Height

Neck girth

Thigh girth

Other

%

Principal measures key in assigning sizes in trousers

Principal measure 1

Principal measure 2

Principal measure 3

70%

10%

20%

Measurement charts usually used by

pattern makers

Both

Clothing measurement charts

Body measurement charts



way, most pattern makers use base size 1 month and 3 months for newborns, and base size 6

months for babies.

Figure 100. Base sizes of babies.

The base or designing sizes used by pattern makers to manufacture their garments for children

can be seen on Figure 101. Most pattern makers work with base sizes 4 years, and 8 years.

Figure 101. Base sizes of children.

It was also gathered from the pattern makers the value of the measurements of the ideal person

(body measurements) of the base size with which they work for babies and for children. The

measurements gathered are illustrated on Figure 102. These have not been published in this

report due to confidentiality issues.

4

14

25

43

4

7

4

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100

0 months

1 month

3 months

6 months

9 months

12 months

24 months

%

Base sizes used to manufacture garments for babies

5

40

35

15

5

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100

2 years

4 years

8 years

10 years

15 years

%

Base sizes used to manufacture garments for children



Figure 102. Measurements of base sizes of babies and children.

Pattern makers were asked if they would introduce in the Kidsize system their information

related to the body measurement charts with which they work; 50% of them would do so, and

50% would not. The reasons why they would not do it are the following:

• We make only a few children’s clothes in year, almost only nightwear. So we don`t need

so large system, we don`t have time for that at the moment. However, if we make more

clothes for children, I could answer Yes.

• Difficult for reasons of confidentiality of the company

• The decision is not my responsibility, it has to be taken by management

• If it is agreed by the company, due to confidentiality

As can be seen, the main reasons deal with confidentiality, and the necessity for it to be agreed

with the company and management.

3.3.5. Fitting of the garments

Figure 103 shows the methods adopted by the different companies to verify the fitting of the

garments, from physical commercial mannequins, their own mannequins, and/or children, to any

other method. Almost 50% of the companies use physical commercial mannequins and children,

and nearly 20% of the companies use both commercial and their own mannequins, as well as

children. No other method was described by the pattern makers to verify fitting.



Figure 103. Methods to verify the fitting of the garments.

The physical mannequins used by the manufacturers are:

• The AlvaForm mannequins from Alvanon (used by most of the pattern makers surveyed).

• The Stockman mannequins

• The Cléo mannequins

The standard AlvaForm mannequin series accurately and realistically represent a vast range of

target demographics (several countries, EU, and Asia), based on thousands of body scans. For

children, these mannequins have the following sizes: Preemie 44, Preemie 50, Newborn, 3, 6, 9,

12, 18, and 24 months, 3 and 4 toddlers, 5, 6, 7, 8, 10, 12, 14, and 16 years.

The Stockman mannequins come from Paris. Their mannequins for children are manufactured for

sizes: 6/8 months, 1, 2, 4, 6, 10, 12, and 14 years.

Figure 104 shows the sizes of the children/mannequins used by the manufacturers to verify the

fitting of the garments. As can be seen, 87% of the manufacturers of baby garments –being it just

babies or babies and children– verify with size 6 months, other sizes commonly used by more

than 50% of the manufacturers are size 3 months, and size 12 months. Regarding children

garments, the sizes more commonly used are size 8 years (80% of the manufacturers), size 4

years (73%) and size 12 years (67%), also size 2 years (53%).

12

12

47

18

6

6

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100

Only children

Own physical mannequins and children

Physical commercial mannequins and children

Both types of mannequins and children

Both types of mannequins

Own physical mannequins

%

Methods used to verify the fitting of the garments



Figure 104. Sizes used to verify fitting of the garments.

One manufacturer of children garments specified that they verify fitting in size S in girls and size L

in boys. Other manufacturers say that they try all the necessary sizes according to the

specifications of the garments, or that they use sizes according to children that they find to make

the fitting trials.

Figure 105 shows whether the pattern makers would introduce in the Kidsize system their

information related to the measurements of the children/mannequins they use to test the fitting

of the garments manufactured. Almost 60% of the manufacturers would do it, or would do it if

the information were handled as confidential of their user. Approximately 40% of the

manufacturers would not. Their reasons are:

• We have so many different kinds of garments with different kinds of fittings, so it would

be impossible to give that information

• Confidentiality of the company

• The decision is not my responsibility, it has to be taken by management

• No If it is not agreed by the company

20

20

60

87

7

53

47

20

13

13

53

13

73

7

20

0

80

7

20

0

67

0

0

0

20

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100

0 months1 month

3 months6 months9 months

12 months18 months24 months36 months

1 year2 years3 years4 years5 years6 years7 years8 years9 years

10 years11 years12 years13 years14 years15 years16 years

%

Sizes of the children/mannequins used to verify the fitting of the

garments



Figure 105. Possibility of introducing company’s mannequin measurements in Kidsize.

Figure 106 shows whether the manufacturers would find interesting to have a tool like Kidsize as

a support tool for selecting sizes for their garments. Almost 90% of the manufacturers would find

it interesting. Their reasons are:

• We receive quite many questions from the customers especially when shopping in web.

Even though we have size charts and drawings to show how to measure in our web site.

• We make the garments based on the base size without the customers knowing these base

measurements and if their child corresponds to our clothes.

• It can allow the parents to stop thinking that under the pretext that their kid has 18

months, he has to fit a size 18 months while other parameters are taken into account.

Figure 106. Interest to have a tool like Kidsize.

12%

47%

41%

Would you introduce in the KIDSIZE system

your information related to the measurements

of the children/mannequins used to verify

fitting?

Yes

Yes, if it is handled as confidential

information of my user

No

88%

12%

Would you find it interesting to have a tool

like KIDSIZE as a support tool for selecting

sizes for your garments?

Yes

No



4. Conclusions

This deliverable characterizes the patterning and sizing process of SMEs regarding:

• The sizes and the type of the garments manufactured

• The types of charts used and how are the measurements defined

• The base sizes in which their garments are designed

• The methods and sizes used to test the fitting of the garments

• The measurements considered key by the companies in size selection and fitting

evaluation of the garments

Regarding the design and patterning of garments for babies and children:

• All of the companies manufacture all garment types

• 80% of the companies work with babies and children.

• From the companies that manufacture for babies, approximately 43% manufacture for

babies up to 36 months, and 35% manufacture for babies up to 24 months. The age of 36

months is when babies make the jump from nursery school to school, therefore, many

companies consider it the age of rupture between babies and children. From this point of

view, for the Kidsize purpose, babies should be considered up to 36 months to cover

most of these company’s needs.

• The most common base sizes for babies are sizes 6 months, 3 months and 1 month, and

the most common base sizes for children are sizes 4 years, and 8 years.

• We have at our disposal the body measurement values of the base sizes with which the

companies work for babies and for children.

• We have at our disposal the key body measurement increase from one size to another,

and the rupture sizes of the pattern makers’ charts, as well as the new increases from

these sizes on for upper garments, lower garments and whole body garments.

• Almost 70% of the companies use physical commercial mannequins and children to

verify the fitting of their garments. The physical mannequins used by the manufacturers

surveyed are: AlvaForm, Cléo and StockmanMannequins

• The project’s SMEs use physical commercial mannequins, and children to try specific

fitting. The physical mannequins used by both of them are the ones from ASEPRI.

• The most common sizes used in verifying fit for babies are size 6 months, size 3 months,

and size 12 months. Regarding children garments, the sizes more commonly used are size

8 years, size 4 years, and size 12 years.

• Almost 60% of the manufacturers would introduce their information of

children/mannequin measurements in the Kidsize system, or would do it if the

information were handled as confidential of their user. The main reasons for not doing

are the necessity for it to be agreed with the company and management.

• The 90% of the pattern makers work with body measurement charts, as well as the

project’s SMEs, and 50% of the companies would introduce their information related to

the body measurement charts in the Kidsize system.

The main reasons for not doing so deal with confidentiality, and the necessity for it to be

agreed with the company and management. This is normal, since the people answering

the surveys were the pattern makers of the company.



• The most common body measurements with which pattern makers work are:

Babies Children

head girth

abdominal girth

chest girth

height

arm length

crotch length

front waist length

thigh girth

hip girth

waist girth

chest girth

height

arm length

crotch length

head girth

front waist length

leg length

thigh girth

wrist girth

upper arm girth

Garment type Babies Children

T-shirts, shirts and jackets 1. height

2. chest girth

1. chest girth

2. chest girth

3. height

Coats 1. height

2. chest girth

3. arm length

1. chest girth

2. chest girth

3. height

Dresses 1. height

2. chest girth

1. chest girth

2. height

3. chest girth

Dungarees

1. height

2. chest girth

3. waist girth

4. leg length

1. chest girth

2. height

3. waist girth

4. hip girth

5. waist girth

6. chest girth

Trousers

1. height

2. waist girth

3. leg length

1. height

2. waist girth

3. hip girth

4. waist girth

5. leg length

Short bodysuits 1. height

2. chest girth

NA

Full body rompers

1. height

2. chest girth

3. chest girth

4. leg length

NA

• Almost 90% of the manufacturers find it interesting to have a tool like Kidsize as a

support tool for selecting sizes.

Regarding the virtual try-on:

• There are two main approaches for the Kidsize Virtual Try On module:

o 2D Imaging, using image overlay techniques

o Rotatable 3D Imaging, using body and clothing meshes

• Of the two options considered for the Virtual Try On module, the 2D approach is the least

onerous for the garment manufacturers. It fits reasonably well the manufacturers’

current practices regarding flat image photography.

Documents

D1.1 Needs, expectations and barriers from children ...images.ozongo.com/xpress/kidsize/resources/image/D1.1_Needs_v15... · GA no.: 606091 2 of 100 Deliverable D1.1 Table of Contents