Clint Engine Swap 10-23-05

8/12/2019 Clint Engine Swap 10-23-05

1/24

How I swapped a 1.9-liter turbo diesel AAZ engine intoa 1982 Volkswagen Vanagon Westalia diesel

!or edu"ational use onl#$ I a""ept no responsibilit# or loss or da%age resultingro% t&e use o inor%ation in t&is do"u%ent$ 'onsult a proessional to %akesure t&at e(er#t&ing #ou)re doing is "orre"t$

Please send me any comments, corrections, suggestions etc. [email protected]. Im sure there are alternate orbetter ways of doing things than how I did them; let me know about em if you like!

his document is written for eole who ha"e hardly any e#erience working on cars, like me when I started in onthis. If you know what youre doing, lease o"erlook any ossibly edantic comments!

1$%&'%$( re"ision. )&$$( *lint *ockrill. +ay be freely distributed.

I wrote this to help others who are going into this project as cluelessly as I did. I had no priorengine-swapping experience, and not much experience working on cars. Ive learned a tonduring this project about Vanagons, diesel engines, manual transmissions, and how messy andexpensive it is to work on cars. Most o the ino in here is rom various people who answered!uestions and oered advice while I stumbled through the project. "hanks are especially due to#cott $aniel %oss at "urbovans, Vic &hmed at '(# Imports, )on *ones at )ons "ransaxles, andellow engine swapper Matt +ollard.

"his is written speciically about installing a V/ actory-new 0not rebuilt1 2.3-liter turbodiesel 4&&'5 engine rom 6ermany into a 237 diesel Vanagon /estalia camper, in place othe original 2.8-liter normally aspirated 0non-turbo1 diesel engine. My van doesnt have powersteering, power brakes or air conditioning. I this isnt exactly the swap that youre considering,some details or major parts o the project may be dierent. 9opeully this helps you out and youcan avoid some o my mistakes and save some money. &gain, please email me with !uestions,

comments, suggestions or corrections at tinilk2:yahoo.com.& project like this re!uires a lot o time and money. I you pay someone else to do it, the totalcost can easily reach ;7,, or more i youre installing an electronically monitored engine likea "$I. I did most o the project mysel, and the total cost was over ;8,2 not including tools0see appendix or the cost breakdown1. I spent about two months gathering ino ( advice, andabout a month working intensively on it. Its now been nearly two years since I inished theproject. My van has gone over 2, miles with the new engine. Ive been running on 2

2. +icked out what engine to get. I spent a ew weeks skimming postings on a ew o therelevant BahooE groups 0see appendix1, and emailing people !uestions about the dierencesbetween engine choices. I wanted to stay with diesel because o the uel economy andbecause my van was already a diesel. Fonverting a gas van to diesel would involve a littlemore work, such as installing a glow plug relay and switch, installing a cold start cable,

widening the gas noOOle opening, and possibly replacing the uel ilter assembly. "heresalso debate about whether you can legally register and insure a van that has been convertedrom a gasoline to a diesel engine in some states. &s ar as I know, its technically notallowed in Faliornia. I you want a legal diesel Vanagon in Faliornia, you have to startwith a van that was diesel to begin with.

I chose the 2.3-liter turbo diesel cause its a good perormance improvement over theoriginal 2.8-liter engine, and everyone I asked said its a simple bolt-in swap into a diesel vanwith no cutting, grinding, welding or drilling re!uired to make it it. It goes in at the same=-degree mounting angle that the original diesel engine is at, which means it can be made toclear the engine cover without much trouble and without raising the bed in a camper. Mosto the other engine choices re!uire modiications to or new engine mounts, an adapter plateto connect to the transmission, redesign o the wiring harness, etc. "he "$I 0"urbo diesel$irect Injection1 engine is more modern, more eicient and more powerul than the 2.3 "$,however electronically its much more complex and re!uires a good amount o extra workand troubleshooting to make it run in a Vanagon. I was very tempted to buy a "$I becausethe up-ront cost or a used one is less than a new 2.3 "$ engine, but once you get into theproject theres a lot more diiculty involved. It may end up costing thousands o dollarsmore to put in the "$I i you have to buy the computer, drive-by-wire system, instrumentcluster, parts o the wiring harness etc., and o course i you pay someone to install it, asmany more hours are re!uired to solve the electronic issues. & number o people have donethis though, and ended up with a killer van. %or me it looked like more work, headache andexpense than I igured Id be willing to put up with.

Initially I was planning to pay a mechanic to do most o the work. 9owever the more Italked to people and the more I ound out about this particular engine, the more I realiOed thatI could do the whole thing mysel without having to buy a lot o specialiOed tools, Id learn alot, and Id probably save a couple thousand dollars.


5/24

. ?ought a new 4complete5 engine or ;,33= rom Vic &hmed at '(# Imports0www.Osimports.com1 in +ahrump, Gevada, about = miles west o @as Vegas. Vic sellssome stu on Abay as well, his I$ is 4Vanamania5. I picked it up in a rented minivan ratherthan having it shipped, which was good cause I got some extra bits that I wouldnt know Ineeded otherwise, and got a lot o advice rom Vic. I bought a 3-amp alternator, alternator

bracket, water pump, and serpentine pulley system rom him or an extra ;= at the sametime. Vic gave me a bunch o nuts and special double-ended bolts or mounting the stu,which I wouldve had trouble inding otherwise.

I couldve swapped over the water pump, alternator and pulleys rom my old engine, but Ithink the single serpentine belt setup is a big improvement over the old arrangement and isworth the extra money. I think it also allows accessories like air conditioning or powersteering to be installed, although Im not planning to do either.

I brought a blue tarp with me so the minivan interior wouldnt get wrecked. Vic gave me ax8 to hold up the engine on the way home, and I got two old tires on the way home per his

suggestion to help keep the engine rom alling over, as its very top-heavy. It needs to stayupright so the ragile uel lines etc. dont get damaged by the engine lying on them, and alsoso the oil stays in the oil pan.

. )emoved the old muler, tailpipe and protective plates rom underneath the old engine andmidsection o the van. I ended up throwing away the rear engine 4diaper5 cover, as a lot opeople eel it just gets in the way and keeps you rom noticing luid leaks until they get bad.Its also not thick enough to oer much protection, and tends to make the engine vibrationlouder rather than !uieter.

I put the nuts ( bolts back on the van so I wouldnt lose them or orget where they go. I letthe irst section o exhaust pipe attached to the engine, which turned out to be helpul as ahandle to move the engine around later on. I knew Id need to replace the exhaust systemwith larger pipes, as the stock diesel 2-N5 exhaust would create too much backpressure orthe new engine.

. *acked up the van and removed the diesel transmission, ater disconnecting everything romit according to the repair manuals instructions. Bou can leave the transmission attached tothe engine and remove both as a single unit, but I removed the tranny irst so I could trade itin or one with the right gearing beore I started in with the engine swap. I used string tohold up the drive shats ater they were unbolted. I also used an old tire underneath it tocatch it as I removed it, and to help slide it out rom under the van. Its not too heavy or oneperson to pick up and move it around, even with gear oil in it. "he oil is sealed in the mainportion o the transmission, so the clutch housing 0also called a bell housing1 only has air in itand no oil leaks out when you disconnect it rom the engine. $ont laugh, I wasnt sureabout thatE

"he engine seemed okay without support ater the tranny was removedL it balances prettywell on the two mounts. Bou could put a jack stand under the end where the tranny used toattach though. I removed the starter rom the transmission and kept it to mount on the new
http://www.zsimports.com/http://www.zsimports.com/


6/24

tranny. In hindsight I couldve drained the gear oil beore removing it, both to make itlighter and cause any salvage yard you give it to will want it drained irst.

=. "ook the old 4$'5 transmission as a core when buying a used 4$P5 transmission out o anair-cooled gasoline engine Vanagon 0which I think were only made rom 7 to 71. I got

the used tranny at ?/ &uto $ismantlers in )oseville, F&, just east o #acramento.

"he reason or this is the original diesel transmission is geared way too low or the newengine. I I had kept the tranny as-is, my van wouldnt be able to go aster than 8=mph./ith the air-cooled 4$P5 transmission my top speed is about H7mph. I had three choices>

a. "he cheapest option at ; is what I did, swap my tranny or a used one out o anold air-cooled Vanagon, which has the 4tallest5 gear ratios available in a stockunmodiied transmission. 4"all5 meaning rdand thgears will turn the wheels asterat a lower engine )+M than 4shorter5 gears would. Bou have to swap your bellhousing and input shat to the new transmission, which I had )on at )ons "ransaxles

in #an +ablo, F&, do or me. "hat included a new bell housing gasket and gasketsealant, and some other seals, not to mention a lot o enlightening ino about V/transmissions.

b. #econd choice would be to ind a transmission that someone had already rebuilt withtaller gear ratios. Boud still have to swap over your bell housing and input shat,unless theyd already done so. "his might not cost any more than choice &, i youcan ind a suitable tranny, and may cost less cause you can keep your original trannyand sell it to someone else or a couple hundred dollars. ?ut it might be hard to indone o these or sale.

c. "hird choice would be to pay someone to rebuild your existing transmission withtaller gears, or around ;H.

& lot o people have experimented with dierent gear ratios, so ask around or advice andother peoples experiences. & spreadsheet or calculating speed at various )+Ms based ontransmission gearing, wheel ( tire siOe is available at>http>NNwww.xmission.comNpubNusersNaNacparkerNgearsxl.xls

Make sure you keep the bell housing and input shat rom your old tranny i you go withchoice &. "he guy at ?/ &uto was nice enough to drain my old tranny and remove the bellhousing and input shat so I could keep em. Boull need them or your transmission to mateup with the &&' engine, because the bolt holes on a water-cooled or air-cooled tranny wontmatch up with a diesel engine, and the transmission input shat will be too long to it. Boumay have to pay a core charge and get reunded or it when you give them whats let o yourtranny later.

"he transmission I bought was 4good used5, meaning it came straight out o a van in thesalvage yard and was checked over. I you do buy a 4good used5 one, make sure whoeveryou buy it rom opened up the drain plug and made sure there werent any broken gear teethor shavings in there, looked at the gears or wear, replaced the seals around the input shatand drive shats and any others that were leaking, and hooked it up to an engine and ran it or
http://www.xmission.com/pub/users/a/acparker/gearsxl.xlshttp://www.xmission.com/pub/users/a/acparker/gearsxl.xlshttp://www.xmission.com/pub/users/a/acparker/gearsxl.xls


7/24

awhile to make sure it at least seems to run okay.

&s I discovered later on, good used transmissions arent always that great cause theres noway to tell how long theyll last beore needing a rebuild. "his was the single mostaggravating part o the project. I I had this choice to make again, Id choose a rebuilt tranny

with taller gears, or have my original one rebuilt, in a heartbeat. Aven i it ended up costingmore it wouldve been worth it to avoid having to replace the transmission again.

#wapping the diesel bell housing and input shat onto another tranny isnt all that diicult, iyou dont have any trouble getting the input shat out. Im glad I paid someone else to do it,cause I wouldnt be sure o what I was doing and might easily have done something wrongthat destroyed the transmission 0the transmission destroyed itsel later anyway, but thatsanother story1. I you want to do it yoursel, ask around or someone whos done it andollow the steps in the repair manual, though I think the ?entley manual leaves out a ewdetails. Boud need a new input shat seal, a new circlip to hold the input shat together, anew paper bell housing gasket, some gasket sealant, maybe a ew special tools. Itd be much

easier i you can prop up the transmission housing vertically with the bell housing on top.

8. Cpened one o the hex illNdrain plugs on the 4new5 transmission, put in about a hal-!uart onew gear oil, and closed and tightened the plug. )olled the transmission around so the oilsloshed around the inside. "hen opened the drain plug 0on the bottom near the bell housingend1 and drained the oil. "his is to remove some o the letover oil that was still in there, soit wont contaminate the new oil as much. I didnt ill the transmission with new oil yet, itsbetter to do that once its mounted on the van so it gets illed to the right level.

I bought = !uarts o )ed @ine M"-3 oil 0www.redlineoil.com1 at around ;3 per !uart. Itsrelatively expensive, but everyone Ive asked says its the best stu or these transmissionsand will help the synchros last longer.

H. $rained the oil out o the old engine by opening the drain plug at the rear o the oil pan. Itilted the engine back and orth a ew times to help it drain out, which you cant do i yourtransmission is still attached. "hen I unbolted and removed the oil pan, which needs to go onthe new engine later. &lso removed the oil pickup tube, which angles down to suck up oilrom the inside bottom o the oil pan, and the oil pimp. "he oil pickup tube needs to replacethe one in the new engine.

7. $rained the coolant out o the engine per the repair manuals instructions, into a big)ubbermaid-type container. I you just ran the engine, wait a ew hours or it to cool obeore doing this. Foolant at operating temperature will burn youE Go matter how careulyou are, this is really messy and tends to get coolant all over the garage or driveway. /atchout when disconnecting the middle hose connection on the water pump, it just loods out allover the place. &lso disconnect the lower coolant hose at the radiator in ront, which is hardto get to. I lowered the spare tire bracket and pushed the tire out o the way and it was stilldiicult to get it o. It really gushes out o here too and splashes everywhere, but i youdont disconnect this hose too then youll only drain about hal the coolant. )emember toreconnect this coolant line laterEEE
http://www.redlineoil.com/http://www.redlineoil.com/


8/24

I alternated between jacking up the ront then the back o the van to help the coolant drainout. I also pulled the engine back and orth to help it drain, since my transmission wasalready out and the engine was balanced on the two mounts. @eave pans under every drainpoint i you can. & hose that was empty can suddenly dump more coolant when you open

another connection somewhere else or jack up another part o the van.

3. $isconnected everything rom the engine per the repair manuals engine removalinstructions. /henever I disconnected anything, I wrapped what I disconnected with tapeand wrote a number on it with a marker. "hen I wrapped tape around where it waseventually supposed to connect to on the new engine and wrote the same number there so Iwouldnt lose track. "he uel lines were too hard to get o so I just cut them with wirecutters, as close to the itting as possible so I could reuse them. @uckily there didnt seem tobe any diesel uel let in them, so they didnt make a mess.

2. )ented an engine hoist or ;3 and removed the engine with a riends help. "he hoist couldbe disassembled so I was able to it all the pieces in another riends *etta to drive it home./e jacked up the back o the van and dropped the engine out the bottom. Bou cant pull itout o the top with a hoist cause the roo gets in the way. #ome people build a short &-

rame out o xs and a cable hoist, but I think it was worth it to rent a real hoist.

/e put down a piece o cardboard to drop it onto 0old carpet works well too1, rolled the hoistinto place and bolted the chain to whatever spots we could ind on diagonal corners o the oldengine. /e jacked the hoist up a little so it was supporting the engines weight. Gext weremoved the big bolts that hold the two engine mounting bars on the van, which isnt veryeasy. & hammer and a piece o metal or something to push the bolts out with whilehammering may help. "he mounting bars and the aluminum brackets that connect them to


9/24

the engine were still attached to the old engine. /e careully lowered the engine, makingsure there wasnt anything still connected and checking so as not to let it get hung upanywhere. Cnce on the cardboard we just disconnected the chain and slid the engine outrom underneath. I you need to move it, the engine can be picked up by two people but itaint the lightest thing in the world. I wouldnt try picking up the 2.3"$ engine with just two

people, its a bit heavier. I read somewhere that it weighs about H pounds.

I didnt clean the engine bay very much, but now is the easiest time to do it, when theresnothing in the way.

22. #wapped the lywheel and clutch onto the new engine. "his is much easier to do now thanlater when the new engine is installed. I was told that the stock diesel clutch should be strongenough, so I reused it, no problems so ar. $ont let the new engine tilt towards the lywheelend, as engine oil can come out o the lywheel bolt holes beore the bolts are inE "he repairmanual says to 4always replace5 the lywheel bolts, but that isnt really necessary. "he boltholes arent evenly spaced, so itll only go on one way. I put blue threadlocker 0@octite1 onthe lywheel bolts, this is really important cause i the bolts came loose while driving, yourlywheel would all o and probably destroy itsel and the clutch and tranny input shat. )edthreadlocker works too but is more permanent, so you may not be able to get the bolts outagain i you ever need to.

I cleaned the clutch plate surace with acetone. I it has any oil or other stu on it, it may notgrab as well as it should. #ome people say you should scu up the surace o the clutch withsandpaper so it grabs better, but then your clutch will wear out aster. $ont do thisE Itcomes rom the actory with a polished surace or a reason.

2. @ining up the clutch disc while tightening the pressure plate down was a little tricky. 0Iveheard since doing the swap that theres a tool in clutch kits to easily align it.1 I put the boltsin loosely, then got the disc about lined up and tightened the bolts enough with my inger to


10/24

just hold the disc in place. "hen I looked down the center hole and pushed the disc aroundwith my inger in the hole until it looked centered. "hen I tightened the bolts to the speciiedtor!ue o = G-m 027 t-lb1, alternating diagonally and tightening each one a little at a timeinstead o all at once.

2. ?olted the $P transmission to the new engine, and bolted my original diesel starter motor tothe transmission. "his can also be done ater the new engine is installed, but its much easierbeorehand, especially mounting the starter motor. Id suggest bolting the tranny to theengine irst then mounting the starter, otherwise the starter gear shat might damage yourlywheel gear teeth while youre trying to line everything up.

My engine came with the input shat pilot needle bearing already installed, but apparently notall engines necessarily come with it. "he engines gonna be mounted at the same =-degreeangle that the old engine was, so i its standing upright then the transmission will only lineup i the transmission is lying over at a =-degree angle. /e had em both standing uprightand noticed that the bolt holes didnt line up, duhE &ter it was slid into place, I tightened the

bolts but thought Id wait till the whole thing was installed on the van to tor!ue them, sincetheres no easy way to keep everything rom turning while pulling on the tor!ue wrench.

2. #wapped the aluminum brackets and mounting bars onto the new engine. +rettystraightorward, but can be a bit o a pain to move the engine around to get em on there. Itsprobably easier to mount them to the engine now, rather than mounting them to the van thenbolting them to the engine ater hoisting it into place.


11/24

2=. 9oisted the new engine into place and re-bolted the support bars to the van. It was a bit o apain to get everything lined up, some hammering re!uired beore we could get all the boltsin. "he our engine mounting bar bolts get tor!ued to 7= G-m 08 t-lb1. /e didnt seem toneed to support the ront o the transmission beore bolting it on, the engine mounts held it upine.

28. "or!ued down the transmission-to-engine mounting bolts. "he ?entley manual was a bitconusing. In one place it said to tor!ue all the bolts to G-m 0 t-lb1, but that doesntseem tight enough. Alsewhere it said = G-m 0 t-lb1 on the small M2 bolts and 7 G-m0=3 t-lb1 on the large M2 bolts, which seems more like it.

2H. )aised the transmission with the loor jack, and screwed the orward transmission mountingbolts into the rame cross-member. "he air-cooled tranny seemed to want to mount to adierent set o holes on the rame than the diesel tranny had mounted to, but there wasnt anut welded in on one o the our rame holes so I could only screw in three o the bolts. Ialso had to pull the transmission orward with a cable hoist a little bit to get it to line up withthe bolt holes. I hooked the cable hoist to the rame somewhere near the ront o the van.

27. )econnected the clutch hydraulic cylinder, starter wires, ground strap, back-up light wires,and drive shats to the transmission. "he strip o metal that supports the clutch cylinderbracket didnt want to it so I gave up on it. I should dremel it to it and install it at somepoint, as theres enough pressure exerted by the clutch cylinder that its mounting bracketmight bend otherwise. %or some reason the metal support isnt shown in the ?entley manual."he drive shat bolts I have are the older style ones with allen heads, rather than regular hexheads. "he allen bit stripped out the heads on a ew o them while I was tor!uing themdown, so I had to go get some new ones. Bou may want to buy extras beorehand in case this


12/24

happens, or just buy a whole set o bolts with hex heads instead o allen heads.

23. $rained the green break-in oil out o the new engine so I could swap over the old oil pan andpickup tube. I waited till it was in the van to do this, since the engine would be convenientlysuspended and held in place. I wouldve kept the break-in oil to re-use, except I wasnt sure I

had enough. &ter undoing the bolts I had to use a screwdriver to get the oil pan to comeunstuck rom the engine.

&t this point I shouldve prepared the metal dipstick 0the one in the engine block1 to becalibrated. "his is done by removing the dipstick, tapping out 0rom the bottom1 the tube thatit its into, holding the old oil pan against the engine while pushing the dipstick back in untilit hits the bottom o the oil pan and stops, measuring how much to saw o the top end o thedipstick tube so the dipstick goes down as ar as it is now, sawing o the top end o dipsticktube, and putting it back on. #ince I didnt do it Ill have to wait until the irst oil change anddo it then. /hen the engine is ready to ill with oil, the dipstick can be calibrated by puttingin exactly .3 !uarts o oil 0including what you put in the oil ilter beore screwing it on1,

replacing the dipstick and marking the level as the 4low5 line on the dipstick with a hacksaw,then adding exactly one more !uart and marking the level as the 4high5 line on the dipstick.

Dnbolted the oil pump, which the oil pickup tube is attached to. I pulled out both so that theoil pump gears wouldnt all out accidentally with nothing to hold them up there, and getdented. "he orange windage tray stays installed when the pickup tube and oil pan areswapped. ?eore swapping the pickup tube rom my old engine in place o the new one, Ipried o the metal cover on the end and cleaned out the pieces o grit and cleaned o thescreen. I crimped it back on with a hammer and screwdriver. "hen I installed the pickuptube and oil pump and tor!ued the bolts. I think I used the bolts rom the old engine, sincethe new ones seemed too long. I reinstalled the new oil pump since I wasnt sure i the oldone would it exactly in the new engine.


13/24

"he new engine has a nice reusable rubber oil pan gasket, so no need or a paper gasket orany raOor blade scraping. I cleaned up the gasket surace o the old oil pan, cleaned up theold oil and grit out on the inside, and cleaned o the outside as best I could. Ideally youcould take it to a mechanic or transmission repair shop that has a hot water cleaning tank,

which would clean it up a lot better. I applied the "oyota gasket sealant to the oil pan lange,replaced the orange windage tray, bolted the oil pan in place and tor!ued down all the bolts."he two or three bolts next to the transmission are nearly impossible to get to with a socket,so I wasnt able to tor!ue them down as much as they should be. I dont think you can evenget to them when the transmissions removed, since the plate on the engine that covers thebell housing is still in the way. I I could ind a long enough torx driver thats the right siOe, Icouldve tightened them some more.

. #wapped the oil cooler rom the old engine to the new one, including the shat that it mountsto. Fleaned o the o-ring and put some engine oil on it to make sure it made a good seal.

2. )emoved the two coolant hose ittings rom the old engines cylinder head, cleaned up thegasket surace with a raOor blade and acetone beore replacing the paper gaskets, andmounted them on the new engine with gasket sealant. I got the gaskets rom Vic at '(#Imports. Gote that the two gaskets are dierentL one has the bolt holes in line with the centerhole and the other has them oset.

I used a thin layer o black "oyota engine gasket sealant 0thanks or the suggestion, #cottE1on both metal suraces. It cost ;28 at a "oyota dealers parts department, expensive butapparently its really good stu. It comes in a -ounce white tube with instructions, a metalkey or s!ueeOing it out, and an applicator noOOle which I didnt use. "he box and tube bothread 4"oyota #eal +ackaging 2 0%I+61, +NG 3=-2, %or Cil +anNFamshat9ousing5. "he instructions say 4$C GC" apply onto copper or copper alloys5 0or instanceto seal brass radiator thermostats, which I used it or later anyway1 4in a closed state5, notsure what that means.

. #wapped the old accelerator cable bracket in placeo the one on the new engine, which is a little bitdierent. 9ad to bend it so the angle and length othe cable would be similar to what they were on theold engine. Aven then I could only put in one o thetwo bolts, the other hole didnt line up on the newengine. &t some point I should probably drillanother hole andNor bend it so I can attach it withboth bolts. I used the throttle arm that came on thenew engine, but bent the arm down so the angle thatthe cable pulls at is similar to how it was on the oldengine. I also lipped the 4ball5 connector to thebottom o the arm, as it was on my old engine,beore attaching the cable.


14/24

. #wapped the diesel uel intake tube, which the uel line coming rom the uel ilter attachesto, rom the old engine in place o the one on the new engine. "he one on the new enginewas bigger and wouldnt it my uel line. Aven with the old itting, the uel line was a bithard to get on there all the way. "he uel return tube on the new engine was the right siOe orthe return line, so I didnt have to swap that.

. &ttached the coolant hoses, uel lines, throttle ( cold start cables and electrical stu to thenew engine. &ll the connections are in basically the same places as on the old engine. Iyour coolant hose clamps are all rusted Id suggest getting new ones, it makes them mucheasier to deal with. I adjusted the cold start cable length per the repair manuals instructions.&ter attaching the throttle cable, I checked that the range o travel is about right by askingsomeone to push the accelerator all the way down while I watched the lever move.

"he new engine has an oil pressure sensor on the oil ilter mount, which I didnt connectanything to. I you wanted to add an oil pressure gauge to your dashboard, you couldconnect it to that.

"he new 3-amp alternator has dierent connectors than the old 8=-amp one did. I cut awaythe white plastic -connection plug that it the old alternator so I could connect its two ?Qand single $Q wires to the new alternator 0see picture on previous page1. &t some point laterI may install a tachometer that connects to the / terminal.

=. Installed an air ilter box and air hosesrom a 3 $odge Faravan at a salvageyard, per Vics suggestion. "he airbox and hose rom any 7H-3 $odgeFaravan or +lymouth Voyager with aV8 engine, .-liter or .-liter, shouldwork. I bought an air ilter or it roman auto parts store. It its nicely inront o the drivers-side taillight, andthe hose its snugly around the hosecoming down rom the 4snorkel5 airvent behind the rear window. "hehoses are pretty big diameter and theilter is reasonably big, so as not torestrict the airlow into the turbo toomuch. ?ut there are better atermarket ree-low ilters available.

I bought a long black plastic oil unnel and some big hose clamps rom an auto parts store,cut the unnel to it inside the hose coming o the air box on one end, and tightly it theoutside o the turbo inlet on the other end. "his isnt a very good solution, the unnel isalready cracking and Ill have to replace it with something more permanent sometime. Itdoesnt seal very well so its probably letting some uniltered air in which is not good. Icould have a thick-walled unnel machined rom aluminum to the right diameters, and get ashort piece o rubber radiator hose o the right diameter to connect the turbo inlet to the


15/24

aluminum unnel. "hen use three hose clamps to seal the air box hose to the unnel, unnel tothe short radiator hose, and radiator hose to the turbo inlet.

8. Installed a plastic breather, V/ part R7-23-22-$, which I ordered rom a V/ dealer orway too much money, into the rubber 4chimney5 on top o the oil cover. "he new engine has

a hole on the side o the engine block thats supposed to connect to one itting on thebreather. *ohn at %reds V/ ound me a similar plate with two metal pipe ittings on it, andsold me some heat-resistant radiator hose to connect to the ittings. I saw a plate with alarger single itting on it on one o Vics vans, but wasnt sure where to get one so I installedthe one *ohn gave me. I cleaned it up with raOor blade and acetone and bolted it on with athin coating o the "oyota black sealant goop 0it shouldve had a paper gasket but I couldntind one1. "hen I went to an auto parts store and bought a +restone coolant lush kit that hadsome 4"5 connectors that looked like theyd work, along with a ribbed radiator hose rom arack behind the counter and some hose clamps. I connected the two hoses rom the plate tothe ribbed radiator hose with one o the 4"5 connectors and some hose clamps, andconnected the radiator hose to the breather with a hose clamp.

"he other itting on the breather is supposed to return oily air to the turbo inlet. I used one othe straight connectors rom the coolant lush kit to connect the breather to one o the hosesthat *ohn sold me, along with a hose clamp. I cut a hole in the side o the rubber air box hoseleading to the turbo inlet and pushed another o the coolant lush kit connectors through it,sort o sealing the connector to the inside o the air box hose with some more "oyota gasketgoop. "hen I connected the other end o the radiator hose to the connector with a hoseclamp. VoilS, breather systemE I probably couldve ound the right ittings and hoses to useor this i Id looked around more.

H. %illed the engine with .3 !uarts 0including the oil that I put in the new oil ilter1 4#&A 9$ 09eavy $uty15 oil, to be used or the thousand-mile break-in period. #ince my old oilpan still has the license plate oil ill tube and dipstick on it, I igured Id use that dipstick orthe time being. "he dipstick that came in the engine block wont be accurate at the =-degreemounting angle, unless its re-marked as described in step R23.

7. I may have a metal plate made at some point, to cover up the hole in the oil pan, so I can getrid o that tube during a uture oil change. "he 7 style plastic tube with the cap tends tocome unscrewed rom the vibration and spray oil all over the inside and outside o the backo the van. &lso one o the screw holes is cracked on mine so its only a matter o timebeore it starts seriously leaking. "he new engine has a regular oil ill cap on the valve coverso I dont really need the license plate tube, although the dipstick back there is much moreconvenient than the one on top o the engine.

3. )eplaced both the high and low temperature switches on the radiator 0in the ront o the van,behind the top grille1, prior to putting in coolant. I ordered these or too much money romthe V/ dealer. "hese do stop working eventually, so its a good idea to replace them iyoure not sure whether your an comes on when it should. I the an doesnt come on whenneeded, the engine could overheat. Bou need a long 3mm socket to get these out and toscrew in the new ones and tor!ue them. I didnt have the round paper washer gaskets so I


16/24

just used the "oyota gasket sealant. +robably shouldve used some other kind o sealant,since the "oyota stu explicitly warns you not to use it on copper alloys 0such as brass,which the thermostats are made o1.

. %illed and bled the coolant system. Bou have to start the engine to bleed it, so make sure

everything else has been done, especially the engine oil and transmission oil, and everythinglooks connected and looks ready to go.

I used +restones 6M $excool knocko, mixed hal-and-hal with distilled water. Gote thatthis stu is orange and comes in a grey bottle, and is dierent than the standard green+restone antireeOe in the yellow bottle. "wo people Ive asked think $excool is the beststu to use. #econd best is V/s phosphate-ree coolant. ?leeding the system is veryimportant, otherwise therell be air in the coolant lines, which could overheat the engine anddestroy it. Got good.

I had someone help by watching or coolant coming out o the bleeder screw. I you have

another helper to push on the throttle lever thats even better. 9eres how to bleed it>

a. Make sure youve re-attached all the coolant hoses 0including the one that wasremoved rom the radiator in the ront o the vanE1, and tightened all the hose clamps.

b. +re-mix two one-gallon containers o coolant with two gallons o distilled water, sothat you have our gallons o mixed hal-and-hal coolant ( water.

c. *ack up the ront o the van about 5 higher than the back.d. "ake o the upper ront grille and loosen the bleeder screw, which is on the top o the

radiator on the passengers side. "ake o the little rubber cap on it. I taped a sodacan on there to collect overlowing coolant, but the better way to do it would be to puta transparent bleeder hose on the top o the bleeder screw and connect it to a bottle tocollect the coolant.

e. +ush the heater lever on the dashboard to 4hot5, so the heater valve is open, lettingcoolant low into the heater core.

. Dnscrew the metal expansion tank cap 0which is to the right o the engine, not theoverlow tank with a plastic snap-on cap behind the license plate1 and ill it with asmuch premixed coolantNwater mixture as itll hold. Bou may want to use a unnel soit doesnt spill everywhere.

g. @et it sit or 2-2= minutes with the cap o.h. "op it o again and let stand another = minutes.i. &sk a riend to watch the radiator bleeder screw and screw it in when it starts pouring

out in a steady stream, instead o just burbling out a little now ( then. &lso ask themto tell you when they do so. "hey should be careul in case the coolant is hot enoughto burn.

j. #tart the van and hold the throttle at about 2,= rpm. "his is easier i you havesomeone to hold the throttle lever, but I did it by putting a socket extension in there tohold the throttle at the right position.

k. Immediately be ready to add coolant, itll start going down right away. $ont let itget lowE &s soon as your riend notices the coolant streaming out steadily and


17/24

tightens the bleeder screw, make sure the expansion tank is topped o, screw the tankcap back on, let o the throttle, and turn o the engine.

l. %ill the overlow tank 0behind the license plate1 to the 4max5 mark. +ut the rubbercap back on the bleeder screw and put the grille back on.

m. #ometime later ater youve been driving around long enough or the engine to heat

up, park the van, turn o the engine, take o the upper grille, and slowly unscrew thebleeder screw. #top unscrewing when you hear air escaping, and tighten it back up assoon as coolant starts spurting out 0dont get burnedE1 or no more air is escaping.

n. Fheck the expansion tank level or a ew days once you start driving the vanregularly, and top it o whenever its not completely ull up to the brim.

2. I must admit that Im not !uite sure how keeping the overlow tank at the 4max5 mark makesany dierence, as it doesnt seem to me that coolant in the overlow tank would ever bepulled back up through the hose i the coolant level got low.

. )ealiOed that the metal engine cover doesnt it. @uckily only

one part intereres, whats called the 4aneroid5 on top o the uelpump, and it mostly intereres with the support beam that runsdown the middle along the bottom o the cover. "his beam canbe cut without any apparent dire conse!uences. I put the cover inplace, and reached in through the license plate hole to mark witha marker where to cut the beam. I bought a $remel cutting tooland cut away that part o the beam entirely.

/hen I checked the cover on the van, it still hit, but not verymuch. I started wondering whether I could beat it out with a bighammer, when I realiOed that my -ton loor jack was the perecttoolE I ound a suitably spaced concrete column in a parkinggarage and went to work. It was a little hard to hold the jack andeverything in place, but it worked great and didnt tear the metal.I had to wedge my socket set and wrench set in against the topsurace as 4spacers5 so it would push out enough. Gow I have alittle bumped-up spot on top o the engine cover that bears theimprint o some joints between the concrete blocks. &nd I didnthave to raise the bed or weld something in and cut up the bedcushion just to it the engine.

. &t this point, I shouldve installed an exhaust system. Instead I drove the van = milesdown to coast to meet my parents or Fhristmas. Got as loud as you might think, since theturbo mules a lot o the noise, but still loud. &lso I would ratherve been able to break theengine in with city driving, not barreling down the highway, but didnt have much choice.

Cn the highway on the way back, ater around = miles total, the van started bucking nowand then, as i the engine were misiring intermittently. It kept getting worse, and eventuallybecame a loud grinding noise and the van started really slowing down. I realiOed it was thetransmission, not the engine, and I no longer had a ourth gear. It wasnt popping out o gear,


18/24

it was still in gear but the gears were grinding across each other instead o meshing. I pulledonto a secondary road to stop and look at it, but o course everything was happening insidethe tranny. I igured the transmission would need rebuilding anyway at this point so moreharm would be done by limping home in third gear, which I did. & ew miles later, third gearstarted grinding too. I eventually made it home with only second gear and reverse let.

I took it to )on, his guess was the main shat bearing wore out, apparently one o the irstthings to wear out on these transmissions. &t the same time this allowed that the input shatto come loose, letting tranny oil leak out the ront into the bell housing. "he tranny was stillunder warranty, but it took ?/ &uto a week to ind a suitable replacement. +lus o course Ihad to disconnect and remove the tranny, drain it, remove the starter, bell housing and inputshat, drive it to ?/ &uto in a rental car and get the new one, take the new one to )on toswap the bell housing and input shat onto it, take it home and install it and reconnecteverything, and ill it with another ; worth o M"-3 gear oil. &pparently 4good used5transmissions are luck o the draw, theres just no way to know how long itll be good or.

. 6ot an exhaust lange and had an exhaust system installed. Bou need a lange to have theexhaust system installed so therell be someplace to weld the irst pipe onto. I got the langerom Matthew +ollard 0mpteleski:yahoo.com1, who had some stainless steel langes madethat are siOed or a -2N5 exhaust pipe. %langes are also available rom Vic0sales:Osimports.com1 and #cott %oss 0scottdaniel:turbovans.com1 plans to make somelanges with downpipes as well.

Averyone who I asked said to use -2N5 diameter exhaust pipe. I had the exhaust installedby @ietime Mulers ( ?rakes in )edwood Fity or ;. I took a printout o some picturesthat Parl Mullendore took o a nice exhaust system he installed while swapping an &&'engine into a #yncro. 9aving pictures to give to the exhaust installer made it really easy. Icant seem to get to Parls pictures online anymore, so email me i youd like to see em.

"hey made it out o aluminiOed pipe, which seems to be the standard material or exhausts. Iconsidered stainless steel, but was told that stainless would be more likely to develop cracksat the welds, since the exhaust will be directly mounted to the engine and vibrate a lot.&luminiOed tubing is more lexible and less likely than stainless to crack under continuousvibration.

"he exhaust guys welded a 27-degree pipe 0which they had to custom bend1 to the lange,then a braided lex connection, a 3-degree bend pipe, glasspack muler across the back othe van, then a !uestion-mark-shaped tailpipe, and a chrome tip. "he glasspack is supportedby two bars that mount to rubber vibration isolators, which mount where the originalisolators were.

Most 4glasspack5 mulers actually contain stainless steel mesh rather than iberglass. Itsbasically a straight through pipe with scoops cut into the sides, which allow the exhaust gasesto expand to the outside o the pipe, where the mesh absorbs some o the noise. I hadconcerns about a glasspack being !uiet enough, its certainly not the !uietest optionavailable, but I think its a good compromise. & standard oval muler would be !uieter, but
mailto:[email protected]:[email protected]:[email protected]:[email protected]:[email protected]:[email protected]


19/24

I was told that the seams on oval mulers arent constructed to handle a lot o vibration."here are also more expensive 4perormance5 mulers with better seams available, but theseare much more expensive, and harder to it in the limited space behind and below the engine.

=. %inally replaced the air intake hose connection to the turbo air inlet with something morerobust. I ound a radiator hose at &utoOone with a diameter transition that was nearly right,coupled that with a grey +VF electrical coupling rom the hardware store, and wrapped someduct tape around the coupling to bring it up to the right diameter to hose clamp to the hoserom the airbox. It its nicely and is a lot better than the plastic unnel I had on there.

Ive since learned that duct tape may get all slimy and gross ater prolonged exposure to oil.+erhaps not the best choice or a hose diameter spacer.

8. &nd thats itE /ell not !uite. Cther stu I should do sometime>

- 6et rid o original plastic oil ill tube and dipstick- Falibrate the length o the dipstick on top o the engine- Install oil pressure gauge, turbo boost gauge, tachometer, oil temp and coolant temp

gauges- Install an intercooler somewhere


20/24

&ppendix>

2. Gecessary tools etc.>

- -ton loor jack 0at least1, and the original actory jack.

- "wo -ton 0at least1 jack stands. %our is better.- )egular ( +hillips screwdrivers.- Metric socket set with 7,2,22,2,2,2H,23mm sockets. Mine are N75 drive.- Metric box-end wrench set in the same siOes as above.- )eversible socket ratchet handle. Mines around 75 long.- "or!ue wrench about 275 long that can be set anywhere between H and 7 t. lb. 03-27

G-m1. Mines 2NT drive so I needed an adapter to use it with my N75 drive sockets.- #ocket extension bar set. Mine has 5, 85 and 25

extensions, all o which are useul.- @ong 23mm socket to put in and tor!ue the special

alternator bracket bolts on the new engine, which you

cant get at with a short socket or a box-end wrench.- @ong 3mm socket i you plan to replace thethermostats on your radiator. I couldnt ind one so Igot a long 2-2N75 socket instead, which is a little smallbut it worked.

- =mm and 8mm metric hex 0&llen1 sockets.- 8mm and 7mm metric @-shaped &llen wrenches.- @arge adjustable wrench.- @arge and small Vise-grip tools.- Cil ilter wrench 0-2N5 to -HN751.- #pecial wrench with a solid hex 2Hmm lug or

transmission oil drain plugs. Cther options are get aninternal pipe wrench or a 2N inch pipe nipple, which I ound in the bathroom plumbingsection at 9ome $epot 0see picture1, or make your own by jamming two metric 7mmnuts against each other on a 7mm bolt 0however the bolt head will it the drain plug a bitsloppily1. Dse an adjustable wrench with either o the above.

- $remel rotary tool with abrasive cuto wheel to modiy the underside o the enginecover to accommodate the new engine 0i you have a metal engine cover1. I you want tocut a rectangular hole in the engine cover and weld a cake pan to it instead, then a sabersaw, jigsaw or 4sawO-all5 will do but o course youll also need a welder and youll haveto cut some oam out o the bed cushion i you have a camper. I you have a plasticengine cover, you may have to replace it with a metal one. Im not sure but I doubt thenew engine will it under a plastic cover.

- ?right lashlight and plenty o batteries.- Dtility knie or cutting hoses etc.- Angine craneNhoist good or lbs. I rented one or ;3 rom #an Mateo )entals in F&

or the one day I needed it.- Fontainers to catch drained engine oil, transmission oil and coolant 0=- or 2-!uart or

engine oil, =- or 2-!uart or transmission oil, and at least one -!uart or coolant1.


21/24

- "wo transparent 2N-gallon containers with measurement markings on the side, or pre-mixing coolant and water.

- @i!uid threadlocker 0@octite1, either blue 0medium strength1 or red 0permanent1, or thelywheel bolts, drive shat bolts and a bolt on the shit linkage.

- Molybdenum disulide grease and regular multipurpose grease.

- %ive !uarts o #&A 7 9$ 0heavy-duty1 engine oil.- = !uarts o suitable transmission gear oil. "he best stu to use is )edline M"-3.- "wo gallons o 6M $excool or V/ phosphate-ree coolant.- "wo gallons distilled water.- Volkswagen Vanagon repair manual. I have the 4Cicial %actory )epair Manual5 by

?entley +ublishers. "here are probably better manuals out there. "he ?entley manualassumes youre a trained mechanic so it doesnt spend any time explaining general carrepair knowledge, just has the bare minimum step-by-step overview o how to dosomething.

It was also helpul to have>

- 9ammer or mallet to beat stu into place.- 9acksaw or calibrating dipstick and marking dipstick.- Multimeter.- "ape measure.- Vernier calipers.- Fable hoist, also known as a winch or come-along. 6ood or pulling on stubborn things

like transmissions that dont want to line up with their bolt holes. &lso good or maybepulling van out o the mud, or pulling mine onto a D-9aul tow dolly when it wouldntstart and I had a long drive ahead o me.

- "arp0s1 to put under engines and other oily drippy stu.- &cetone to clean the clutch disc and coolant ittings.- @ots o paper towels or rags.- "wo old tires to keep the engine upright and protect it while driving home, i you pick it

up yoursel. &lso were handy sometimes to keep the van rom rolling while moving it.- 275 long x or x8 to hold the new engine propped upright until it gets installed.- Mechanics coveralls, or old shirt and jeans you dont care about.- Mechanics creeper, so you dont have to slide all over the place on your back.- $igital camera to record how stu used to be attached, and to email pictures.

. #ome relevant BahooE groups> 0my BahooE I$ is 4clintclock51

"$I-conversion 0http>NNautos.groups.yahoo.comNgroupN"$I-conversionN1"ons o inormation and relevant discussion about "$I and "$ engine swaps.

turbovans 0http>NNautos.groups.yahoo.comNgroupNturbovansN1)un by #cott %oss, tons o ino about turbo diesel and #ubaru engine swaps.

$iesel-Vanagon 0http>NNautos.groups.yahoo.comNgroupN$iesel-VanagonN1Intended or stock diesel Vanagon owners, but more discussion lately about turbo diesels.
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/TDI-conversion/http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/turbovans/http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Diesel-Vanagon/http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/TDI-conversion/http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/turbovans/http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Diesel-Vanagon/


22/24

dieselvolkswagenclub 0http>NNautos.groups.yahoo.comNgroupNdieselvolkswagenclubN1Got turbo diesel oriented, but there may be some relevant stu here somewhere.

. +eople I know o who have done or are willing to do Vanagon engine swaps>

/esty Ventures 0http>NNwww.mindspring.comNUthewestymanN1contact Parl Mullendore 0thewestyman:mindspring.com1 6apland )oad, 6apland M$ 2H82--8=

"urbovans 0www.turbovans.com1contact #cott $aniel %oss 0scottdaniel:turbovans.com1+C ?ox 277, "alent C) 3H==2-3=2-72=2

%ast %orward &utomotive 0www.astorward.ca1contact> $avid Marshall 0vanagon:volkswagen.org1=8 uesnel-9ixon )oad, uesnel ?F, Fanada V* 8'=-33-HHH= phone, =-33-228 ax

6o/esty 0http>NNwww.gowesty.comNdieselWinWvanagon.html1contact> @ucas Valdes 0lucas:gowesty.com12223-& @os Clivos &venue, @os Csos, F& 3777-83-H73 sales, 7=-=7-H77H ax

Vanagon +rojekt 0www.vanagonprojekt.com1contact> sales:vanagonprojekt.com==2 #econd #treet, @ivermore F& 3==3=-H-7 phone, 3=-H-=3 ax

$ieselgeek 0www.dieselgeek.com1contact>jim:dieselgeek.comH2 $eborah $rive, &ustin, "J H7H==2-=7-=8

Valley /agon /orks 0www.valleywagonworks.com1contact> Foby #mollens 0ino:valleywagonworks.com123 Mill #treet, #an )aael, F& 3322=-=H-=87 phone, 2=-H7=-H2 ax
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/dieselvolkswagenclub/http://www.mindspring.com/~thewestyman/mailto:[email protected]://www.turbovans.com/mailto:[email protected]://www.fastforward.ca/mailto:[email protected]://www.gowesty.com/diesel_in_vanagon.htmlmailto:[email protected]://www.vanagonprojekt.com/mailto:[email protected]://www.dieselgeek.com/mailto:[email protected]://www.valleywagonworks.com/mailto:[email protected]://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/dieselvolkswagenclub/http://www.mindspring.com/~thewestyman/mailto:[email protected]://www.turbovans.com/mailto:[email protected]://www.fastforward.ca/mailto:[email protected]://www.gowesty.com/diesel_in_vanagon.htmlmailto:[email protected]://www.vanagonprojekt.com/mailto:[email protected]://www.dieselgeek.com/mailto:[email protected]://www.valleywagonworks.com/mailto:[email protected]


23/24

Vendors I used>

Angine, alternator, water pump, serpentine belt system, intercooler>'(# Imports 0www.Osimports.com1Vic &hmed 0sales:Osimports.com1

772 /. ?losser )anch )d., +ahrump, GV 738HH=-=H-=H8 phoneNax

Angine hoist>#an Mateo )entals22 Aast rd &venue, #an Mateo, F& 328=--732 phone, 8=--83= ax

"ransmission>?/ &uto $ismantlers 0www.bwautodismantlers.com1*e ?uchanan 0sales:bwautodismantlers.com1

2 +.%.A. )oad, )oseville, F& 3=HH7-H-777 phone, 328-H7-3 ax

"ransmission bell housing ( input shat swap>)onKs "ransaxles)on *ones2= ?roadway, #an +ablo F& 378=2-=-88

&ir ilter box ( hoses rom $odge Faravan>$orris &uto /reckers 0www.dorrisauto.com1sales:dorrisauto.comH $epot )oad, 9ayward, F& 3===2-H7-3 phone, =2-H-82 ax

?reather hoses and gaskets>*ohn at %reds 6arage28 $ #treet, )edwood Fity, F& 388=-87-=

?reather and radiator thermostats> 0V/ dealer1?oardwalk &uto Fenter 0www.bwalkauto.com1Cne ?air Island )oad, )edwood Fity, F& 388=-8-2 phone, 8=-8H-23 ax

Axhaust system installation>@ie-"ime Muler #ervice 0www.lietimemuler2.!pg.com122 Al Famino )eal, )edwood Fity, F& 388=-83-8 phone, 8=-82-82 ax
http://www.zsimports.com/mailto:[email protected]://www.bwautodismantlers.com/mailto:[email protected]://www.dorrisauto.com/mailto:[email protected]://www.bwalkauto.com/http://www.lifetimemuffler1.qpg.com/http://www.zsimports.com/mailto:[email protected]://www.bwautodismantlers.com/mailto:[email protected]://www.dorrisauto.com/mailto:[email protected]://www.bwalkauto.com/http://www.lifetimemuffler1.qpg.com/


24/24

. Axpenses that I kept track o> 0some small things were probably let out1

$escription Vendor Fost

Angine '(# Imports ;,33=.%light to pick up engine #outhwest &irlines 2.

Minivan rental rom +ahrump, GV to #an Mateo, F& $ollar )ent-a-car 2H.37/ater pump, serpentine belt kit, alternator, alt. bracket '(# Imports =.Metric N75 drive socket set 02-pc.1, wrench set 022-pc.1,ratchet, N75 drive extension bar set 0-pc.1

/al-Mart 83.H

"or!ue wrench, 2NT drive adapter GovakKs &uto +arts H.3=-ton loor jack, jack stands 0 sets1, drain containers P-Mart 2.H8Internal pipe wrench set 0tranny drain plug tool1 9ome $epot 2.386ood used 4$P5 transmission rom air-cooled Vanagon ?/ &uto $ismantlers 3.#wap tranny bell housing ( input shat, new seals )onKs "ransaxles 3.@ong 23mm #ocket, oil ilter wrench Pragen &uto +arts 2.=3)edline M"-3 transmission gear oil 0= !uarts1 6otelli &uto #upply H.3

9ex bit 0&llen1 socket set #ears .Angine hoist rental #an Mateo )entals 3.6asket or exhaust lange, coolant itting gaskets '(# Imports =.?lue @octite , transmission unnel, nuts ( bolts Crchard #upply 9rdwr 22.HH&ir ilter box rom V8 $odge Faravan $orris &uto /reckers ."oyota oil pan gasket sealant "oyota dealer 28.Valve cover breather, radiator thermostats ?oardwalk V/ dealer 2.28#&A 9$/ motor oil 08 !uarts1, grease or rear FVjoints, Faravan air ilter, unnel or air intake

+ep ?oys 23.

+restone $excool coolant 0 gal1, hose clamp &utoOone 2.39acksaw, bottles or coolant premix, bolts ( washers Crchard #upply 9rdwr 2.3

$remel kit, cuto wheel set Crchard #upply 9rdwr 73.7)adiator hoses or air breather, engine block itting %reds 6arage 2.7)adiator hose, itting, connectors, lush n ill kit Pragen &uto +arts 3.H+restone $excool coolant 02 gal1, hose clamps Pragen &uto +arts 2H.3Far rental to get replacement transmission at ?/ Anterprise )ent-a-car .7#wap tranny bell housing ( input shat again, new seals )onKs "ransaxles 7.More )edline M"-3 transmission gear oil 0= !uarts1 6otelli &uto #upply H.36lasspack exhaust system install @ie-"ime Muler .)adiator hose or air intake &utoOone H.8+VF coupling or air intake Crchard #upply 9rdwr 2.H

Total cost: $6,462.43

&mount o total spent on tools> ;=2.3

Documents

Clint Engine Swap 10-23-05