Busan Haps Iss 13

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June 1st through August 27

State of the Art 14 5 Questions: Velvet Geena 18 Spring Into Summer 22 People of Haeundae Beach 26

FEATURES

Surfin’ R.O.K. 28 Tears of a Giant 30

SPORT

REGULARS

CONTENTSEvents 07 Earthly Possessions 08 Short Stuff 10 On the Beaten Path 12 The Dish: Macaroni for Dummies 36Tharp On: Travel 44

GUIDESSummer Festivals 09 Beachin’ in Busan 24 Nightlife Highlights 38 Restaurant Guide 40Hotel Guide 42Bar Guide 43Area Maps 46 Busan Metro Map 49

hile westerner culture most often associates the number thirteen with bad luck, from my point of view it is anything but bad luck. Issue 13 celebrates two years of our existence and

little about it concerns luck, either good or bad. Through the efforts of a dedicated staff and a slew of contributors, Busan Haps has grown into what I hoped it would be from the beginning: a solid source of info about Busan, put together by people living here and supported by local business.

To be honest, I was barely cognizant that two years had gone by until we hit the final layout weekend. It didn’t occur to me to prepare any special features to commemorate the occasion – after two years of doing this, I just slipped into our normal groove of putting together a new issue that would be better than the last. So, there will be no teary-eyed strolls down memory lane in lucky 13. But, for those who wish to weep, there are eight more pages than before, with more content, more listings and more stuff you’ve come to expect from our growing little rag.

To all of you who have been a part of the journey, I give you my sincerest thanks.

W

Busan Haps June/July 2011 Issue 13Business Registration Number: 00001

First Publication Date: Sept, 2, 2009Address: Ocean Tower #1726, 760-3, Woo 1 Dong, Haeundae-gu,

Busan, Republic of Korea 612-822www.busanhaps.com

Subscriptions: [email protected] Year/6 Issues 10,000 KRW

30% Donated to Women’s SheltersDisclaimer: The opinions in the magazine are not necessarily those

of the publisher.Questions or comments: [email protected]

©2011 Busan Haps Magazine

SUBMISSIONS

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ADVERTISING [email protected]

[email protected] (한국어)

Follow us @busanhaps on TwitterFB: Busan Haps Magazine

CONTENTSTranslation: Hye Jeong BaeLisa Hye ParkJi Su Bae Chelsea Kim

Photographers:Ben WellerMike DixonRachel BaileyMatthew GolemMelinda RubiantoBmcStinkie Pinkie Kammarul Shahrin

Writers: Roy EarlyChris TharpJen SothamDave FaulkJohn BocskayCheryl KimGus SwandaBrian KilrainJeff LiebschRachel Bailey

Fashion:Christy SwainMichael Henderson

Office Manager | Soo Park

Publisher | Ju Shin-hye

Editor in Chief | Bobby McGillMarketing Director | Michael Schneider

Art Director | Russell McConnell

Public Relations Director | Petra Jung

Managing Editor | Jeff Liebsch

Associate Editor | Rachel Bailey

Webmaster | Danny HimesMarketing Assistant | Cho Jeong-Been

CONTRIBUTORS

1. 2.3.

4.1. Christy Swain and Michael Henderson: Fashion-loving twins (one camera shy) separated at birth, this Kiwi faux-couple would like to divide their time between Paris and Milan, but they’ll settle for Busan and Seoul. Often seen browsing the vintage stores of Seomyeon or the High St. of Nampodong in the never-ending search for their fashion fix.

2. Brian KilrainBrian Kilrain is from a small New England town you've never heard of. He spent all his 20’s as a glori-fied carny and is now proud to call Busan home. He also is a big fan of tall jokes.

3. John BocskayJohn Bocskay lives in Haeundae, and is totally stoked about his new cooler and beach chair. He is currently sitting behind the Paradise Hotel watching you from a distance through expensive binoculars.

4. Mike DixonEasily recognizable by the big glass eye sticking out of the left side of his face, Mike Dixon likes taking photos of people (especially drunk people and good-looking women). Generally harmless if not startled.

5. Ben WellerBen Weller grew up playing with darkroom chemicals and shooting things. He always carries his camera and always gives up his seat to the elderly. On the short list for Time’s Person of the Year.

6. Chris TharpChris Tharp hails from Washington State and has lived in Busan over six years. When not banging on a guitar or scream-ing into a microphone, he likes to write. If you buy him a drink, he’ll tell you all about the times he met Kurt Cobain, but you probably already know the story.

06 BUSANHAPS_june/july 2011

EVENTS

Danny ChoJune 25th, HQ’s Living RoomAmerican comedian Danny Cho has been on Mad TV, as well as other comedy specials and is convinced Koreans have the biggest heads, Chinese people smell like moth balls, and Japanese people have the "ugliest teeth." He spares no one. 10,000 won at the door. Limited seating available. Hosted by Chris Tharp

Mayor’s Cup Surf ChampionshipJune 24~26, Haeundae BeachThe top 3 surfers from Thailand will be in attend-ance, along with expat and Korean surfers looking for waves to ride on to victory. There will also be surfing clinics and good food.

Elune 2nd Year Anniversary July 2ndHaeundaeBusan’s super club, Elune, is celebrating its two year anniversary with the mighty One Drop East and interna-tional DJ sensation Felix Cartal from Canada. Oh, Canada!

h

Polish PotteryFor those accustomed to home-cooked meals presented attractively, dining from Hello Kitty plates or showing up to a potluck with a carefully prepared dish in a translucent Lock & Lock container can be an affront. The hand-painted Polish Pottery available at Shinsegae, while not a practical way to furnish an entire kitchen, offers a colorful, durable way to dress up your dishwear. The pieces range in size and useful-ness — a small bowl can really snazz up a pack of ramyon, or spring for a casserole dish to use on special occasions. Each dish is handmade and safe to use in the microwave or oven.

EARTHLYPOSSESSIONSWith late winter’s haze finally lifted from our city by the sea, it’s time to hoist yourself out of bed and get on that belated spring cleaning you’ve been putting off. While you’re at it, sprucing the place up a bit wouldn’t hurt, either. Busan Haps is here to help with a few tips on how to get your place company-ready now that your friends are out of hibernation.

h Innisfree Aroma Spray - Lav-ender, Bergamot and OrangeThat bag of food waste left beside the door as a reminder to drop it in the compost later, the cat box, even the smell of sewage wafting up from the street — these and other stinky culprits conspire to make even the tidiest abode seem like a dump. Most of the store-bought remedies available look tacky and create a concentrated cloud of smelly, synthetic smog— but how can you mask the pungent air drifting up from your drain? Innisfree’s subtle line of aroma sprays (also available in lemon, rosemary and rose), freshen up the atmosphere in a pinch without pummelling your olfactory organs. Haps is partial to the lavender variety, which also works nicely as an indulgence at the end of the day — a little spritz on your pillow before falling asleep does wonders for de-stressing. You’ll wake up the next morning so well-rested, you might even have the energy to clean that cat box.

Prints from local artists - Eric Anderson and Da-in KimApartments in Korea aren’t exactly known for their visual appeal. What with the ubiq-uitous beige wallpaper and the stock furniture that adorns most residences, the task of decorating a place to give it a little flair can seem both urgent and daunting. Fine art is expensive and difficult to ship back home when it’s time to return to the motherland, but a handful of local artists offer an affordable and fetching solution to these decorat-ing dilemmas with a series of prints of their drawings and paintings. Currently on offer from Da-in Kim is The Head Series, full of saturated colors and surreal entanglements of bodies and limbs. Prints range in price from W10,000 to W20,000, and the series can be viewed at www.cyworld.com/daininuk. Eric Anderson, half of the popular local duo, Lhasa, has a series of prints depicting animals and man-beast hybrids that one could imagine having been left on the cutting room floor of Where the Wild Things Are after being deemed a bit too creepy. Ander-son’s prints are all W10,000 each, and inquiries can be directed to the artist via email at [email protected]. Whether in the name of style, or simply as a way to cover up that gaping hole in your wallpaper, these prints are a classy option even the frugal among us can afford.


hThe Boryeong Mud Festival (제13회 보령머드축제)July 16 - 24Over a nine-day, two-weekend span in mid-to-late July, for-eigners and Koreans from around the peninsula descend on Daecheon Beach to frolic around in the main attraction – mud. The first mudfest was in 1998, and the festival attracts almost 1.5 million visitors to Boryeong. It is definitely an experience to be remembered, and one that should be on your social cal-endar this year.www.mudfestival.or.kr

Pohang International Fireworks Festival (7회 포항국제불빛축제 ) July 28 - 31The 7th edition of the festival takes place around Hyeongsan River Sports Park and Bukbu Beach. Main events include the International Fireworks Contest, City of Light Performance, and the Fireworks Parade. Experience Programs by the Ma-rine Corps and Coast Guard, yachting, beach volleyball and a variety of other events highlight the festival. www.poscofs.com

Jisan Valley Rock Festival 2011 (지산밸리록페스티벌2011) July 29 - 31Located at the Jisan Forest Resort, just a couple hours out of Busan, the Jisan Valley Rock Festival brings in some great acts for a three-day marathon of music, nature and fun. This year’s headliners include The Chemical Brothers, Suede, The Music and Amadou, and Mariam. Tickets are pricey, but well worth the cost.valleyrockfestival.mnet.com

16th Busan Sea Festival (제16회 부산바다축제) August 1 - 9The nine-day Busan Sea Festival takes place around the city’s beaches, and features a multitude of events, from concerts featuring Korean and international acts, sporting events, mag-ic shows, E-sports, marine sports and much, much more. The festival is one of the more anticipated events in the city each year.www.rockfestival.co.kr/ENG/Sea/01.asp

2011 Busan International Rock Festival (2011 부산국제록페스티벌) August 5 - 7Taking place each year at Dadaepo Beach, the International Rock Festival is one of Busan’s best events to check out the latest in rock music. It features a great line-up of established and indie bands, and is a must see for any rock lover on the peninsula.www.rockfestival.co.kr

FIESTAFIESTA Summer Festivals

2011 june/july_BUSANHAPS 09

BASIS

ON A

New Zealand Consulate OpensKiwis needing assistance now have a place to visit in Busan, as the New Zealand Consulate was opened on the 3rd floor of the Wonyang Building, in Amnam-dong, Seo-gu, on April 14th.

Issues related to cultural exchange, as well as information about tourism, business, studying and immigration in New Zealand are available, but it does not handle visa issuance.

Dongwon Group Chairman Kim Jae-cheol was appointed as an Honorary Ambassador to New Zealand.

For more information, you can contact the New Zealand Consulate at (051) 600-3350

뉴질랜드 영사관 문을 열다도움이 필요한 뉴질랜더들은 이제 부산에서 해결할 수 있게 되었다.

4월 14일 서구 암남동 원양빌딩 4층소재, 뉴질랜드 영사관이 문을 열었다.

문화교류와 더불어 여행정보, 비지니스,유학,이민등과 관련된 서비스가 이루어지며 비자관련 일은 취급하지 않는다.

동원 그룹회장 김재철씨가 뉴질랜드 명예대사로 임명되기도 했다.

자세한 문의는 뉴질랜드 영사관으로 연락하세요. (051) 600-3350

Discovery Channel Goes KoreanDiscovery Communications and Korea’s Central Multi Broad-casting relaunched the Discovery Channel into Korean language last month. The new channel features 24 hours of program-ming, with 40% Korean content. The idea behind the move was to highlight the dynamic cultural and economic development transpiring in Korea.

First launched on the peninsula in 1994, Discovery Channel Korea now reaches eight million homes and features popular science, technology, history, and blue-chip documentaries.

The Discovery Channel reaches 176 million subscribers in the Asia Pacific region, and 397 million cumulative subscribers in over 180 countries in 42 languages since its inception in 1985.

디스커버리 채녈을 한국어로 만나다디스커버리 채녈이 한국 케이블 방송을 통해 지난달 한국어로 새롭게 태어났다.

새로 론칭한 디스커버리 채널 코리아는 40퍼센트의 국내 콘텐츠와 더불어 24시간 프로그램을 방영하는 것이 특징이다. 이런 행보의 이면에는 한국에서 일어나고 있는 경제개발과 역동적인 문화에 초점을 맞추는 데 있다 하겠다.

한국에 처음으로 디스커버리 채녈이 전송되기 시작한 것은 1994년이었으며,현재 8백만 가구에서 시청하는 가운데 인기과학,기술,역사 그리고 고급다큐멘터리 프로그램등이 방영 되고있다.

디스커버리 채녈은 아시아 태평양 지역에만 176백만명의 가입자가 있으며 1985년 론칭이후 전세계 180개국 42개 언어로 방영되어 397백만명의 고정 시청자를 가지고 있다.

NEED TO KNOW


Short Stuff

Michelin Green Guide Korea Released The Michelin Guide released its Green Guide Korea edition in French on May 17. The Green Guide focuses on major tourist sites, cultural and historical sites, art and archi-tecture, cultural insights, accommodation and restaurant information.

Michelin gave its coveted three-star rating to 23 places, in-cluding Gyeongbok Palace and Changdeok Palace in Seoul.

The 450 page guide sells for 25 euros, and currently is only for sale in France. The Michelin Guide Korea will be released in English this November.

Korea is the fifth Asian country to be included in the travel guide series after Japan, Thailand, Singapore and Taiwan.

미슐랭 그린 가이드, 한국편 발간

지난 5월 17일, 미슐랭 가이드에서 그린 가이드 시리즈로 이번에 한국편을 발간했다.

그린 가이드에서는 주요 관광지와 문화유적지, 예술, 건축 및 문화이해, 그리고 숙박시설과 음식점 정보를 중점으로 다룬다.

미슐랭은 서울에 있는 경복궁과 창덕궁을 비롯한 23곳의 장소에 모두가 탐내는 최고 등급 별 셋을 주었다.

책은 총 450쪽으로, 가격은 25유로(한화 약 38,500￦, 미화 약 $36)이고, 현재 프랑스에서만 판매되고 있다. 영어판은 이번 해 11월에 발간될 예정이다.

한국은 미슐랭 여행 시리즈 중 일본, 태국, 싱가포르, 대만을 이어 아시아에서 5번째로 선정된 나라이다.

remember being 14-years-old and watching a show on the Discovery Channel about Okinawa. The people in the show were diving into piles of squid and clams and other sea aliens that I didn’t know the names of. It was cool when I was watching, but later that night, I definitely had some Fear Factor-style nightmares

of choking down slimy monkfish. Flash forward to present-day in Busan. Who would have thought that one of the cool-

est things to do in this city was to eat the stuff that kept me up at night all those years ago?

The Taejongdae clam tents are a good place to find weird and delicious seafood. After a long-ish bus ride to the end of Yeong-do (Taejongdae terminus), walk along the parking lot overlooking a pebble beach, and scope out the tents. Feel like the prettiest girl at the ball as all the ladies who work the tents shout, “Hey you! Come on! Here!” coaxing you into their tent. Don’t stress about the selection process: all tents are pretty much the same. They have no menus either; our particular lady told us “memory,” gesturing towards the buckets of seafood out in front.

To order, try miming what you want (or speak some Korean if you’ve got the skills), and the ladies will take care of the portions. I think clams (조개 – jo-gae) and mussels (홍합 – hong-hap) are the best choices. There are also prawns (새우 – sae-oo), some smaller shellfish, as well as Gaebul, the pink, sea penis-looking things, if you’re feeling saucy.

There are no prices posted, but both times I’ve gone, it’s been about the same. For five people, mussels, clams, beer and soju should run 80-100k, depending on how much you drink. Not bad, considering the large portions and exceptional freshness on offer — divers are about 50 meters away from the diners, plucking the shellfish out of the ocean. The tables are covered with colorful umbrellas that are lit from underneath as the sun goes down, creating a beautiful scene to enjoy while you munch.

Taejongdae is also a scenic park with beautiful ocean views, so you can hike off your dinner after you gorge yourself on bivalves. Or, if you’re feeling lazy, take a small train around Taejongdae, or ferry over to the small rock islands off the coast. Even if you just come for dinner, a meal along Taejongdae’s pebble beach is a singular experience that’s not to be missed.

FROM JAGALCHI/NAMPO: Jagalchi metro station exit 10, take bus 8. Ride to the end of the line (Taejongdae). Walk down the path between Family Mart and the bathroom toward Pebble Beach.

You can check out more great ideas around the city on the Busan Awesome blog at cityawesome.com

Feel like the prettiest girl at the ball as all the ladies who work the tents shout, “Hey you! Come on! Here!” coaxing you into their tent.

By Dave Faulk

ON THEBEATEN PATH

HTravel

I


ew bands are as aptly named as Wayfarer State, the banner under which prolific local singer-songwriter Trey Yip performs. Hailing from New Orleans, Yip has busked on the streets of San Francisco, played alongside old Memphis guitar men and paci-

fied many a soju-doused crowd with his soulful tales of love and wander-ing. So when Yip says in “Author’s Preface” from his newest album The Faustian Bargain that the songs you’re about to hear are “stories about the state of the world, the state of mankind,” you get the feeling the man speaks with the authority of experience.

Yip has earned himself a reputation as one of Busan’s old souls, and this latest collection of songs reflects that. Much of The Faustian Bargain is a heartfelt examination of the merits of our many cures for and distrac-tions from suffering in the modern world. This theme is perfectly cap-tured in the first proper song on the album, “The Abolition of Mankind,” a meandering rallying cry to anyone who’s ever gotten sick of checking Facebook or munching pills.

“We’ve traded all these pains, we’ve cured them in the modern West through these technological advances,” Yip says over Irish coffee in his Gwangan apartment. “We’ve tried to end all these kinds of suffer-ing, and what we’ve done is created a society of people that are bored, depressed. And we have medicine for that, which just makes us more depressed, so it’s just a different kind of pain now. Either way, you have to trade something to end your suffering, so we just keep trading it away from something that might be worse. That’s the bargain with the devil.”

This is weighty stuff to carry around on the back of just a voice, a guitar and a harmonica, so Yip enlisted Better Magic Music’s Gabriel Ulfan (as well as guitarists Robbie Erickson and Gino Brann) to build on his songs. Recognizing the strength of Yip’s songwriting chops, Ulfan got to work crafting musical arrangements that would help drive home the message.

“I wanted to give the songs the sonic weight that they deserved,” Ul-fan says. “When Trey sings about a hopeless man who eventually hangs himself, I wanted the listener to feel the dramatics of that kind of song. So what you will end up hearing is a lot of twisted organs and dark ambi-ent stuff, but there's a lot of pretty piano and sweet chords in there too.”

Perhaps one of the most inspired bits of produc-tion flair was entirely un-planned. The day Japan was struck by the tsunami, Yip and Ulfan were record-ing “The Abolition of Man” in Yip’s apartment when an air-raid siren started sounding nearby. “We had to stop recording and we just put the microphone out the window,” Yip says. “It was in the same key and everything!” The siren wound up in the final ver-sion of the song, whining eerily under Yip’s voice.

We’ve tried to end all these kinds of suffering, and what we’ve done is created a society of people that are bored, depressed. And we have medi-cine for that, which just makes us more depressed, so it’s just a different kind of pain now

Somehow, through the siren, the sad stories and the search for meaning in a sea of superficial di-versions, Yip manages to imbue The Faustian Bar-gain with a sense of hope that he finds in literature, good conversation, and the love of a good woman. He doesn’t pontificate or moralize. Rather, Yip ap-proaches his songwriting as a means of opening a conversation. “If anything, I want to make people ask questions and make their own decisions and go forward from that. When someone hears something and asks me questions about a song, I know they were listening.” Yip won’t be sticking around for questioning much longer. Come September, he’ll be wayward again, this time on his way to teach in Taiwan. Busan music fans will be sad to see him go, but we can comfort ourselves with the knowledge that, as long he’s out there on the road somewhere, another batch of rich, thoughtful songs will be coming just behind him.

To hear Trey Yip’s music, including songs from The Faustian Bargain, visit wayfarerstate.band-camp.com

By Rachel Bailey

STATE OFTHE ART

HMusic

F


5 QUESTIONS:

Q1

You defy the common perception of

the “typical” Korean woman. What

do you think separates you from the

norm? Who were your

biggest influences growing up?

I don’t try to be masculine or feminine on

stage. I’m just being a rocker. I d

on’t try to

appeal to men or women. But by not trying to

appeal to men in the way that “typical” Ko-

rean women put so much effort into perhaps

separates me from the norm.

My biggest influences have been teachers

from school, characters in novels, my par-

ents and other musicians. Normally I am an

introvert in my personal life

, so the persona

of Velvet Geena has her own set of influences

from the “normal” me: Elvis Presley, Wanda

Jackson, Janis Martin, and the Stray Cats are

on the top of that list.

She’s smart, she’s hot and she’s talented. What

is there not to like about rockabilly go girl,

Velvet Geena? Just off a tour of Asia and the

west coast of the U.S., she’s back home now.

We gave her Five Questions.

Q2It m

ust be a challenge as a female

rock singer to do what you do. Of

all the challenges you’ve faced,

what has been the hardest?

The challenge that I face as a musician is

not gender based. I enjoy the music that my

band makes, and I love playing with them.

The challenge of communicating that music

goes beyond the challenges of being a

female. But if you’re asking about the chal-

lenges of being a female in Korea and doing

what I want to do, that is a different question

for another interview.

As for the band, the difficulty in maintaining

a band of five individuals is always going to

be problematic, making sure that everyone

is on the same page. My band mates do not

give me special treatment for being a girl,

although they should give me special treat-

ment because I am the lead singer (laughs).

VELVET GEENA“I don’t try to be m

asculine or feminine

on stage. I’m just being a rocker.”


Photos: Ben Weller Assisted by Sun XinMake-up & Hair: Kim Sun-ju

“ I hope that it will give them a dif-ferent perspective on what they know as “Korea,” if they had any presumptions at all. But ultimately, we hope that people understand that it’s music and that it transcends borders and language.”

“I don’t try to be masculine or fem

inine

on stage. I’m just being a rocker.”


Q4What’s your favorite album to lis-

ten to from start to finish? How do

you like to listen to music?

There is so much wonderful music and so

many great artists out there, that it’s hard

to pin point just one favorite. I’ve told you

about the artists that I was influenced by,

so those are some obvious ones. I still

collect CDs! Some of them are very

obscure, I guess. One of my recent favorites

is Imelda May. When I’m in my car driving, I

listen to CDs that I haven’t had a chance to

listen to in a long time, or I just tune into the

American radio station AFN 102.7. When I’m

traveling with the band, I listen to my iPod,

but most of the time I just sleep!

Q3You have toured in several

different countries. Can you tell

us about the differences in fans?

Where have you been most

enthusiastically received and what

is your favorite country to play?

Every venue and every night is different and

I would be hesitant to generalize about a

certain fan base, although it’s always fun to

play in Japan, because rockabilly fans there

consider rockabilly a lifestyle. You’ll have

children and old folks coming dressed up

more authentically than us.

We are looking forward to playing cities in

the U.S. at the end of this month. It’s our first

time to go the States. I don’t expect the crowd

to immediately like us, but we will do what

we do best and hope that people enjoy the

show. I hope that it will give them a different

perspective on what they know as “Korea,”

if they had any presumptions at all. But ulti-

mately, we hope that people understand that

it’s music and that it transcends borders and

language.

What may make me cringe

is the lack of diversity in

the music scene, but it is to

my advantage. I don’t

really follow it, but I don’t

dislike it. I guess you could

say that I don’t really care

for it enough to cringe.


What do you feel about the

Korean music scene in general?

As a rocker, does the K-pop scene

make you cringe? Do you think that

Korea is well represented interna-

tionally for its depth of talent by

K-pop?

Nope, never. It distinguishes the rockers

from just mainstream K-pop. I’m proud of

not being a K-pop girl. But it’s true that we

don’t have many chances to be exposed to

the public, because mass media focuses on

K-pop. Only a few music programs on TV fea-

ture actual bands. What may make me cringe

is the lack of diversity in the music scene,

but it is to my advantage. I don’t really follow

it, but I don’t dislike it. I guess you could say

that I don’t really care for it enough to cringe.

I feel that K-pop is a very temporary phe-

nomenon. I respect the amount of time and

effort they put in to become “stars” but most

of them are not musicians. They become

singers to do other things later in their lives.

Some are very talented in what they do. A

negative, but perhaps more appropriate way

to put it, is that they aren’t that different from

mass produced products in a factory. There

seems to be a cookie cutter formula to make

someone famous in Korea, or at least receive

the spotlight temporarily. There are a lot of

factors contributing to this phenomenon,

but Koreans tend to like a certain uniformity.

Uniformity in looks, thoughts... it is rooted in

something much deeper. People will get tired

of the predictable trends sooner or later.

Q5


SPRING INTO SUMMER...

Two Busanites show off the latest trends for summer 2011 from department store cool to vintage store chic.

new looks for a new season.


Two Busanites show off the latest trends for summer 2011 from department store cool to vintage store chic.

PHOTOGRAPHY: Mike Dixon STYLED BY: Christy Swain & Michael Henderson MODELS: Angela Crebbin & Pete Polanowski


Want more sand?Check out

Haps Beaches and Surfing

pages online.

www.busanhaps.com

BEACHIN’

Song Jeong (송정 해수욕장)

A short taxi ride from Haeundae’s wall of humanity is the

much more laid back Song Jeong Beach. The shallow surf

is great for swimming, and there are several good restau-

rants and bars nearby. To get there, take Line 2 to Jangsan.

From there, it is about a 5-10 minute taxi ride. There are sev-

en daily trains there from Bujeon and Haeundae Stations.

Gwangan-li (광안리 해수욕장)

Though better known for the incredible night view of the

Diamond Bridge running the full span of the horizon,

Gwangan is a great spot during the day. You’ll have no

problem finding a coffee shop to take a break, while you

relax enjoying the afternoon sun. There are also pick-up

beach volleyball games every weekend. On the northeast

end of the beach is the Millak Fish Market, with some of the

best seafood in town. To get to Gwangan-li, take Subway

Line 2 to Gwangan-li Station. It’s about a 10 minute

walk to the beach.

Haeundae (해운대 해수욕장)

In the summer months, upwards of 700,000 people nestle

under a canopy of a Guinness record 12,000 parasols along

the 1.5 km beach. A ton of bars are also along the beach,

including Drunken Shrimp, Billie Jean, Sharky’s, Rock n’

Roll, U2 and Elune. Beaches and beer –’nuff said. Look for

people playing beach volleyball in front of the Paradise Ho-

tel on weekends, and the spectacle of thousands of people

floating around in yellow tubes. To get there, take Subway

Line 2 to Haeundae Station. It is about a five minute walk

from there.

Dadaepo (다대포해수욕장)

At the southern most tip of Busan, where the Nakdong River

ends its 500 km journey to the sea, is Dadaepo Beach. It

is a great place to chill out and have a picnic, collect a few

seashells and go for a swim in the shallow surf. Just up the

river is one of the best places in Korea to check out migra-

tory birds chilling in the marshes. Grab a bus in front of the

Lotte Dept. Store in Seomyeon, or take the subway to the

end of Line 1 and take a taxi from there.

Time to hit the beaches,

soak up some sun, down some brews and

take in the view.

BUSANIN

BUSAN

BEACHES


GEOJE ISLAND

BEACHES

Gujora (구조라 해수욕장)

Famed for its natural beauty and clear water, Gujora is

a great place to head for the weekend with reasonably

priced accomodations near the shore. While you're

there, take a boat from Gujora Harbor and tour the

offshore areas such as Haegeumgang and Oedo. After

a long day of sun and sand, you can enjoy some great

local seafood along the beach. For more info, check

out: english.geoje.go.kr

Hakdong Mongdol

(학동 흑진주 몽돌 해변)

With its large black pebbles blanketing the beach rath-

er than sand, Hakdong Mongdol Beach is unlike other

beaches along the southern coast of the peninsula.

The stones are smooth enough that you can lay out

your blanket and enjoy a day chillaxing on the shore.

Near the beach is a small village with lodging and local

eats. For more info, check out: english.geoje.go.kr

soak up some sun, down some brews andHGuide

THE PEOPLE OFHAEUNDAE BEACHBy John Bocskay Photography Matthew Golem


IMAGES from left to right

Musician Go Gyoung-gu,

Yoon Tae-won and Speedo crew,

Kim Jong-man, sketch artist Seo

Gyoung-hwa

Among the throngs, are the regulars; the folks who comprise the local landscape, the characters who give the beach its character.

beach is a simple thing - sea meets sand; the rest are details - but a beach isn’t really a beach until somebody loves it. Among Busan’s beaches, Hae-undae suffers no lack of affection. Hundreds of

thousands of people crowd Korea’s best known strand every weekend in the summer, turning it into a small city of half-clad umbrella dwellers. There, among the throngs, are the regulars; the folks who comprise the local landscape, the characters who give the beach its character.

Down behind the Paradise Hotel hangs a group of bronzed and muscular guys who play soc-cer, throw frisbees, and groove to music wearing naught but Speed-os and dark tanning oil. You may have noticed them, or else you have noticed a lot of other people noticing them. In a time and place where many people still swim in shorts and T-shirts, the old folks stare, children giggle and woman blush. Many snap furtive photos. Some ask for autographs.

The unofficial leader of the pack is Yoon Tae-won, 55, who hails from Busan, but lives and works in Seoul. From nine-to-five, Monday to Friday, Yoon wears a suit and tie, but every weekend he heads down to Busan, sheds the mon-key suit, and opts for a modified Speedo (He rolls the backside up so it forms a cord across his bum). Mr. Yoon recently be-came a minor celebrity when the TV show Superstar K fea-tured him, not as a contestant, but as a guy who lives his art, which he says is having a good time. He says he likes to teach the young kids how to have a good time too, and to make a spectacle for visitors to the beach.

While Yoon and company are indeed a sight, you can walk right past Kim Jong-man and not notice him, though if you’ve looked to the sky on a Sunday afternoon, you may have seen a colorful rectangular kite, soaring and diving under the con-trol of an expert hand. Follow the kite string down and you will find him working a large spool with both hands, jerking and spinning what looks like the runaway wheel of an ancient loom. He’s happy to talk about his several dozen kites, which he crafts from bamboo and rice paper. His are faithful repli-cas of the signal kites used long ago by the military to convey specific instructions like “rendezvous on the mountain” or

“attack when the moon is up,” or to describe the strength, movements, and location of the enemy.

On weekends, Kim volunteers at the Korean Traditional Culture Preservation Society, where he teaches interested folks how to make and fly kites. He would like you, too, to go fly a kite, in the best possible sense.

If you have strolled the concrete esplanade, you may have heard old Korean popular melodies being played on a twangy, trebly guitar. The source of the music is Go Gyoung-gu, 82, who sits out with his axe, his amp, and a beat-up

old songbook containing hand-written notation and lyrics to a few hundred songs. Go wears a suit, a grin and a fedora like your grand-father used to wear. He says he’s been coming to Haeundae every Sunday for twenty years, and he is usually joined by friends, who sit around and croon songs that were a hit before your mother was born. Go says he has no interest in Su-perstar K, and he doesn’t play for money, though a Japanese tourist once gave him 200,000 won for playing a Japanese song on re-quest. He takes requests for free too, as long as you lend a voice.

Further down, where the espla-nade opens into a small crescent, sit the portrait artists. They lounge in folding canvas chairs and bark

“Sketch!” to passers-by, hawking pencil portraits which take about 15 minutes and cost 30,000 won. I stopped to chat with local artist Seo Gyoung-hwa, age coyly undisclosed, who, when asked how long she had worked there, joked that it was her first day. A peek behind her easel revealed that she had been drawing for much longer than that; a true likeness of the young woman who sat in front of her, one of the thou-sands of faces that pass her easel each day.

I asked Seo, “Why pay thirty bucks for a portrait when you can just take a photo?”

“It’s a nice souvenir,” she said. “Families like to have a por-trait to capture a moment.”

Plenty of moments remain to be captured this summer at Haeundae Beach. See you there.

John Bocskay is a Haeundae resident. He may be found somewhere along Haeundae Beach with a Day-glo green Frisbee and a cold bottle of beer.


From nine-to-five, Monday to Friday, Yoon wears a suit and tie, but every weekend he heads down to Busan, sheds the monkey suit, and opts for a modified Speedo

A

HSport

3rd Annual Busan Mayor’s Cup International

Surfing Championship

s a warm up for the summer season, more vthan 200 surfers from all over Korea and representa-tives from the international surfing community will gather at Haeundae Beach for three days

as part of The Busan Mayor’s Cup International Surfing Championship.This year’s event will welcome a team of the top six surfers from Thailand, in addition to VIP guest, International CEO of Ocean and Earth, Paul Munton, who is also the Interna-tional CEO of Komunity Project. In addition to officiating at the event, he will also be on hand to help select riders for the 2011/12 Korean O&E surf team, and launch both O&E and Kommunity for the first time in Korea. The Komunity TProject, was founded by 10 time ASP world surfing cham-pion, Kelly Slater.

The open event, which is now in its third year, actively encourages surfers and non-surfers to take part and get in the water to experience that unique feeling that only surf-ing provides. For a small entry fee, participants will get lunch Saturday and Sunday, fun games, a goodie bag and T-shirt; plus there will be music, sponsored booths, photo shoots, learn2surf lessons with the top surfers from Thailand spon-sored by Ocean and Earth and weekend long board rentals and surf clinics sponsored by Songjeong Surf Club.

For the first time ever, there will also be SUP (stand up pad-dle board) lessons sponsored by Pine Ocean, all of which are free and open to the public. The event is free for spectators, as are the clinics from O&E, Songjeong and Pine Ocean.

On Saturday and Sunday, the top sponsored Korean surf-ers take to the water to go head-to-head with sponsored in-ternational surfers in a new ‘special class’ which is paving the way to a more international event, and allotting points to the top Korean surfers to allow them to surf in competitions abroad. This event promises to be the “MUST” attend event of the summer season, so come on out, lube up with some sunscreen and enjoy the sun, sand and surf.

The Busan Mayor’s Cup International Surfing Champion-ship will be held Friday, June 24th – Sunday, June 26th at Haeundae Beach. For more information, check out ‘Surfing Korea’ on Facebook or email: [email protected]

ASURFIN’ R.O.K.

Story and Photos by Cheryl Kim


HSport


TEARS OF A

GIANTBUSAN I’PARK SCHEDULE

Saturday June 25th I’Park vs. Ulsan 7pm

Saturday July 2nd I’Park vs. Seongnam 7pm

Saturday July 23rd I’Park vs Suwon 7pm

busanhaps.com/busan-ipark-soccer

by Professor Gus

If you’ve been to a Giants game, then you have heard the many songs the fans sing over the course of the game. Professor Gus has translated them so you can sing along and actually understand what they are say-ing. That said, what they say, is a fair dinkum different than fight songs you’ve heard at the ballpark back home.

Come Back to Busan Harbor 돌아와요 부산항에

꽃피는 동백섬에 봄이 왔건만 Goat pee-nun bohm-ee wat-gun-mahn형제떠난 부산항엔 갈매기만 슬피 우네 Hyung-jae daw-nahn Busan-hahng-ain gahlmah-gee-mahn sull-pee oo-nay오륙도 돌아가는 연락선마다 Oh-ryuk-doh dohl-ah-gah-nun yeon-lahk-sun-mah-dah목메여 불러봐도 대답없는 내 형제여 Moak may-yaw bool-law bwah-doh day-dahp-awp-nun nay hyung-jae-yaw돌와와요 부산항에 dohl-wah-wah-yo Busan-hahng-ay그리운 내 형제 guh-ree-oon nay hung-jae

The flowers are blooming on Dong Baek Island; spring has arrived.In Busan harbor, the seagulls cry tears of sadness for their brothers who have left.Every time the ferry-boats from Oh-ryuk Island drift off, they cry out with ne’er a reply,“My brothers, come back to Busan! My much longed-for brothers.”For more rousing selections, check Haps online.


As the old adage goes: Take care of your teeth and they will take care of you. Over the years that saying remains the same. And while that adage has never changed, there is lit-tle about the industry that helps you take care of your teeth that has remained the same. Dental procedures are con-stantly changing as new technology and innovation keep a fast pace with the changing world.

One of the more interesting advancements in the dental industry is the area of oral prostheses for people who have lost a tooth, for whatever reason, and need it replaced. A recently developed process known as ‘Human Bridge,’ is aimed at people who, in the past, were forced to undergo expensive and lengthy procedures. Human Bridge has been a welcome addition to those wishing to avoid high costs and complicated surgical procedures. And local den-tists at Dentapia (www.dentapia.kr) are at the forefront of this new technology.

Rather than the traditional method of drilling into the jaw to insert an implant to replace a lost tooth, Dentapia at-taches the new prosthesis to an existing tooth. The whole procedure is practically painless, a fraction of the cost and is done in far less time than the old method. In fact, the pro-cedure doesn’t require anaesthesia, so you can get back to your life soon after the implant is put in place.

For more information on Human Bridge and how it can work for you, contact the Dentapia offices at 051-819-3000 or see them om the web at www.dentapia.kr. They offer a wide variety of dental procedures at a reasonable cost in an English-friendly environment.

THE HUMAN BRIDGE

Advertorial


THE SUMMERGATEWAY

ith the summer vacation upon us, many people are starting to plan, or are booking trips either around Korea or abroad. Summertime is a huge travel season on the peninsula, so preparing

and booking in advance is always a key priority so you don’t get disappointed when everything is sold out.

Message boards around the country are always flooded with requests like: How do I go about getting a ticket to somewhere? Are there any English speaking travel services here? Where can I go to book my tickets?

Hana Tour, located at BEXCO (Line 2, Centum City/BEXCO Exit 206) is a full-service travel company that can handle all your travel needs and requests – in English.

The travel agency specializes in air tickets, hotels, railway tickets in Japan and Europe, packages for skiing, golf, trek-king and cruises. Almost any kind of trip you are thinking of, Manager Hana Lee is confident they can find you the best price with no hidden fees or service charges.

“We do our best for our customers to help them plan and enjoy the best trip possible,” she said. “But my advice to our customers is to book early as you can almost always get a better price.”

For countries that require visas, Hana Tour also pro-vides visa services, as well as travel insurance options and also small luggage bags and accessories are available in their office.

Wherever your plans are this summer, either domestic or international, Ms. Lee is always ready to give a helping hand.

“We have a lot of specials going on this summer around the world, so stop by or call and we will help you get on your way to your dream vacation,” she said.

Their office is open Monday through Friday from 9 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. and Saturday from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m.

Hana Tour is located in BEXCO on the 1st floor next to Starbucks. They can be reached at 051.747.2924 or you can check out their website at guest.hanatour.com

W


HTravel

Ingredients:1 large (28oz) can of Whole Peeled Tomatoes 1 400g can of Divella Cannellini beans5-6 Cloves of Garlic, peeled3 Cups of WaterCrushed Red Pepper Flakes (1-2 Tbsp. depending how spicy you like it)½ Cup Grated Parmesan Cheese

Use the handle of a knife to crush the garlic cloves, to re-lease the flavor. In a saucepan, lightly brown the garlic in a thin layer of olive of grape seed oil. Open the can of tomatoes and, with your hand, squish each one into the pan (splatter warning!!!). Drain and add the cannellini beans and 2 cups of water. Add salt, black pepper and red pep-per flakes. Bring to a simmer, stirring occasionally. Slowly add the rest of the water as you stir. After about 12 minutes, add the macaroni and Parmesan cheese. Give a few more good stirs and voila!

I walk through my door after a long day at work. I’m crampy and cranky and spent. All I want to do is plop down on my couch and watch an episode (or three) of the newest HBO show I’ve been turned on to. But I’m starving. I thumb through my take-out menus, but I’m not really in the mood for Korean food. Pizza won’t cut it either. Sound familiar? Here are a few of my tried and true, no hassle recipes, all involving my number one comfort food - elbow macaroni. These dishes take less than twenty minutes to prepare, and are made with ingredients you can find at most of the big marts.The trick in whipping out quick meals is recognizing that you are going to have these moments, and stocking up on the ingredients beforehand.

Elbow macaroni is ever-present here, it’s super cheap and most of the big marts have a few brands to choose from. My macaroni of choice is Gallo, which is available at Emart and comes in a red bag. The recipes below will make two large serv-ings. For each, start by boiling about 1/3 of a 500g bag of macaroni and draining it.

HFood

MACARONIFOR DUMMIES

Ingredients:1 250g Can of Light or White Tuna2 Small bell peppers (I prefer yel-low and red), diced1 Small onion, diced20-25 Pitted black olives, diced15 Diced Jalapeno Rings½ Cup Mayonnaise2 Tbsp. of Dijon mustard

This is a cold dish, so when you finish boiling the macaroni, run it under cold water in a colander for a few moments. Thoroughly drain the tuna and mash it up in a large bowl with a fork. Add the mayo and mustard and mix thoroughly. Add the other ingre-dients, and add salt and pepper to taste. Mix in the macaroni and stir until the ingredients are spread evenly. Chill in the fridge for 10-15 minutes.

Ingredients: 5 Slices of Processed Cheese (I prefer Seoul Milk brand) ½ Cup of Shredded Mozza-rella or Cheddar 1 Cup of Milk2 Tablespoons of Butter (I use I Can’t Believe It’s Not Butter)15 Diced Jalapeno Rings

In a small saucepan, heat up milk and butter on a low flame. Do not bring to a boil. Add cheese, jalapenos and a tablespoon each of salt and black pepper. Stir con-stantly until the cheese is fully melted. Pour over macaroni. If you have an oven, mix in ½ cup of breadcrumbs and bake on 150 degrees Celsius for 10-12 minutes.

Pasta FagioliTHE DISHSpicy Tuna Macaroni Salad

Jalapeno Mac-n-Cheese

By Jen Sotham


DONGHA

he door to Drunken Shrimp looks inconspicuous enough — almost barely noticeable next to the convenience store. But then you hit that funky stairwell that wraps up around the inside corner of the building until it opens up onto the first floor bar. You can stay on the stairwell and head on up if

you want to play darts on the second floor. A few more after that, and you are on the roof looking out on the main strip at Haeundae Beach. All inside the ordinary looking doorway.

Though it stands a stone throw away from the beach, I wouldn’t call it a ‘beach bar.’ The interior has a hint of refinement and the bartenders are imported from Seoul for added flair and good pours. They can mix any cocktail you want, from martinis and Manhattans to Caipirinha and of course, mojitos. Happy Hour is Sunday from 6 p.m. - 9 p.m. with all you can drink draft beer for $10 bucks along with other specials.

The bar itself spans three floors, including the roof deck complete with a great ocean views. If you are trying to maintain a lily white complexion, then you can catch your rays inside where the first and second floors have floor to ceiling windows looking right out onto the main strip with its parade of people. It’s the closest to Mardi Gras you’re gonna get in Busan and that ain’t a bad thing.

Owner, Alexandra Kim, a seasoned financial planner by day, has dreamed about opening a bar since she was 19-years-old. When asked about the bar’s name, she replies with a coy giggle, “I love shrimp! And Drunken Shrimp is my nickname.” She hedged on elaborating, but the name is catchy and I will give it another try next time.

You might have thought I would never get to it, but yes...they serve shrimp! All Alexandra’s recipes. I had a sampling of each and found them all very tasty: there’s light, crispy batter fried shrimp you can pop in your mouth, cajun and garlic sauteed shrimp, bbq shrimp and for the more ad-venturous, medium-sized butter-shrimp that you eat whole... head, tail, shell and all!

One sure-to-be-popular service from Drunken Shrimp this summer will be their cocktail delivery and take-out service for beach goers. If you find yourself parched on the sand, on the verge of drinking salt water, give a call to the bar and they’ll deliver food and drinks – right to your umbrella!

So, when you hit the beach this summer, stop in and say hi to Alexandra. “Haeundae is the natural place to go during the summer,” she says. “We have a different mood than other Haeundae bars and it’s a great location.”

Maybe you can even get her to tell the story behind her nickname.


NIGHT ON THE TOWN

DRUNKEN SHRIMP BARDrunken Shrimp is a three story, open-air bar with tables on the roof looking out over the beach. The bartenders are friendly, the shrimp is tasty and there’s nothing wrong with that view. Just pay attention during the nightly cocktail-fire show.

Drunken Shrimp is located next to the

Seacloud Hotel, right off the main beach road.

It’s open from 6:30 p.m. to 4:00 a.m., with extended hours in the

summer. 051-747-9334

HNightlife

T

By Brian Kilrain

By Roy Early

t can be hard here in Busan, between the franchise bars and the street-drink spots, to find a bar you can make your home base, one you can really call your own. It takes a delicate chemistry of staff, menu items and atmosphere

to make a place like this, and a new bar recently opened in Busan that may finally be the perfect fit.

The aptly name Beached opened its doors in late February on that well-traveled stretch of walkway across the shore from Gwangan-li Beach. But with the high turnover of busine-ses on the strip, one has to wonder why co-owner and Kiwi Craig Morrison would open a bar in a place so saturated with watering holes already. “I have lived in Gwangan-li since 2002,” he says. “So it made perfect sense to open a bar. You know, what is not to love about the beach here?”

Beached offers an alternative to the thump-thump dance parties found elsewhere along the beach. Sure, Morri-son and co-owner Hyun-ah pump the tunes, but at lev-els that allow conversation among those gathered around the horseshoe bar and the surrounding tables. Even a bit of K-Pop in the background can be ruinous, so they keep it simple with good ol’ rock and roll, taking a smat-tering of requests throughout the night.

In addition to stocking six different Monteith’s brews, Beached’s owners spread the Kiwi love over the menu with the offering of fish and chips, homemade fried chick-en, and both Marmite and Vegemite toasties. Whether you pledge allegiance to the All Blacks or hail from the Land Down Under, you can please your palette here. This Ameri-can digs the Marmite, and it is good to know that even though no store in our fair city offers it, Morrison has a friend in Bagginsville who helps him make sure that anyone with a hankering for yeast extract gets his fix.

Best of all, Beached possesses what among Busan water-ing holes is a rare essence indeed — it feels like a neighbor-hood bar, and that is something you can appreciate wheth-er you’re a Kiwi or not. Morrison is an avid rugby fan and makes sure to feature all games, no matter what the hour or the day. Though I’m not a rugby fan myself, I like that kind of dedication in a bar. I like a place where you can have a chat with someone, listen to rock and roll, and grab a simple bite to soak up the beer. And so I’ve decided to make myself one of those hallmarks of great neighborhood bars the world over — I’ve become a regular. And after visiting Beached, you may find you want to be one too.


NIGHT ON THE TOWN

Beached is a cool new cafe and sports bar that opened up right on the beach in Gwangan. They have a great view of the ocean and the Diamond Bridge, and they are the only bar in town with a wide selection of KIWI BEER.

Beached is located on Gwangan- li Beach, near the Twosome Place and 700 Beer. Open 2 p.m. on the weekends. 051-924-9662

BEACHED ON THE BEACH

I

Restaurant Guide

₩ - Meals Under ₩10,000₩₩ - Meals are Reasonably Priced₩₩₩ - Be prepared to spend some cash3 - Smoking area is availableBusan Haps recommended restaurant

Guide to Restaurants

WesternBeached Cafe and Sports Bar 051-924-9662 ₩busanhaps.com/nightlife/beached-cafe-sports-barBreeze Burns 051-754-4670 ₩₩www.busanhaps.com/food/breeze-burnsBurger and Pasta 051-751-6631 ₩₩3

busanhaps.com/food/burger-and-pasta-gwanganGuess Who Restaurant 051-757-1213 ₩₩3

busanhaps.com/food/guess-who-restaurant

ItalianPasta e Vino 051-746-2500 ₩₩busanhaps.com/food/pasta-e-vino

KoreanCusco 051-624-0990 ₩✔

busanhaps.com/food/cuscoShim Hae Raw Fish Restaurant 051-753-6868 ₩₩Fam Island Sushi Buffet 051-751-6100 ₩₩www.famisland.comFour Season Raw Fish ₩₩busanhaps.com/food/four-season-raw-fishKorean Natural Food 051-751-5534 ₩₩busanhaps.com/food/korean-natural-foodMillak Raw Fish Center 051-757-3000 ₩₩Sujeonggung Sea Food Restaurant 051-753-2811 ₩₩www.waterstone.co.kr

JapaneseSinshen 051-627-9191 ₩Ginza 051-751-7077 ₩₩₩MexicanFuzzy Navel 051-754-6349 ₩₩✔

www.fuzzynavel.co.kr

VietnameseSaigon Pho ₩₩busanhaps.com/food/saigon-“pho”

Gwangan-li

FOOD IS GOODKyungsungdae

WesternAussie Burger ₩busanhaps.com/food/aussie-burgerBurger and Pasta 051-625-6651 ₩✔

busanhaps.com/food/burger-pasta-kyungsungEva’s 051-628-5653 ₩✔

busanhaps.com/food/eva’sHQ Bar 010-2857-2367 ₩✔

busanhaps.com/food/hq-barPainted Chair Cafe 051-611-3666 ₩busanhaps.com/food/painted-chair-cafeThe Coffee Pot ₩busanhaps.com/food/coffee-pot

ChineseNi Hao Chinese ₩busanhaps.com/food/ni-hao-chinese

IndianShabana 051-621-4821 ₩₩www.busanindiancurry.info

ItalianBon Bon 051-621-0906 ₩₩KoreanBaekdu ₩₩busanhaps.com/food/baekduEu Dae Di ₩₩busanhaps.com/food/eu-dae-diMaesaengiga 051-622-0611 ₩₩busanhaps.com/food/maesaengigaNaraso ₩₩busanhaps.com/food/naraso

JapaneseChibi Chibi Oknomayaki 051-904-8257 ₩₩town.cyworld.com/chibichibiThe Sushi 051-611-4043 ₩₩TurkishAile Mediterranean 070-8234-6962 ₩₩

Seomyeon

PNU

WesternFarmers Burgers ₩www.busanhaps.com/food/farmers-burgers

IndianGanesh ₩₩www.busanhaps.com/food/ganesh

WesternBreeze Burns 051-818-4670 ₩₩www.busanhaps.com/food/breeze-burnsFuzzy Navel 051-746-6439 ₩₩✔

www.fuzzynavel.co.krJudie Nine Brau 051-667-7979 ₩₩✔

www.busanhaps.com/food/judie-nine-brauT.G.I. Friday’s 051-805-3164 ₩₩www.tgif.co.krThe Pancake ₩www.busanhaps.com/food/pancake

ItalianFlorian’s ₩₩www.busanhaps.com/food/florian

KoreanBuffalo Chicken 051-805-3512 ₩₩✔

www.busanhaps.com/food/buffalo-chickenDragon Dream (The Cave Bar) 051-646-5924 ₩₩www.busanhaps.com/food/dragon-dream-cave-barGolm Ok ₩₩✔

www.busanhaps.com/food/golm-okHamkyeong Myeon-Ok ₩www.busanhaps.com/food/hamkyung-myeon-ok

VegetarianLoving Hut 051-808-7718 ₩₩www.lovinghut.kr

VISIT BUSANHAPS.COM

FOR MORE FOOD LISTINGS

STILL HUNGRY?


Outback Steakhouse - 1577-0500 (10 locations)www.outback.co.krT.G.I. Friday’s - 1588-2590 (4 locations)www.tgif.co.krVIPS - 1577-0700 (7 locations)www.ivips.co.kr

Shabana 051-517-1947 ₩₩www.busanindiancurry.info

MexicanTaco’s Family 010-5688-6303 ₩www.busanhaps.com/food/taco’s-family

TurkishKebabistan ₩₩www.busanhaps.com/food/kebabistan

VietnamesePho ₩www.busanhaps.com/food/pho

VegetarianLoving Hut 051-518-0115 ₩www.lovinghut.kr

Haeundae

WesternBreeze Burns 051-747-4670 ₩₩www.busanhaps.com/food/breeze-burnsGeckos Bar and Grill 051-747-3069 ₩₩✔

geckosterrace.comHouse on a Hill 051-743-2212 ₩₩www.busanhaps.com/food/house-hillMorning Glory ₩₩Sharky’s 010-4038-2907 ₩✔

www.busanhaps.com/food/sharkys-bar-and-grillStarface 051-742-0600 ₩✔

www.busanhaps.com/food/starface-dalmajiStarlight Cafe ₩ www.busanhaps.com/food/starlite-cafeT.G.I. Friday’s 051-740-6531 ₩₩www.tgif.co.krThe Wolfhound Pub 051-746-7913 ₩₩✔

www.wolfhoundpub.com

IndianGanesh ₩www.busanhaps.com/food/ganesh-indianGanga 051-740-6670 ₩₩₩www.ganga.co.kr/en/main.htmlNamaste 051-746-1946 ₩₩namasterestaurant.co.kr

ItalianBella Cita 051-747-6351 ₩₩ www.bellacita.co.krCine De Chef 051-745-2880 ₩₩₩ www.shinsegae.com/store/restaurantEl Olive Italian 051-752-7300 ₩₩₩ www.elolive.co.krIl Sole 051-7474523 ₩₩₩ilsole.drupalgardens.comVan Gogh Terrace 051-741-3767 ₩₩www.vangoghs-terrace.co.kr/

JapaneseGen Sushi 051-740-6630 ₩₩www.겐스시.comHotaru 051-703-4692 ₩₩Suntory Japanese 051-742-5788 ₩₩www.busanhaps.com/food/suntory-japaneseUmi 051-741-4337 ₩₩₩KoreanAn Ga Korean BBQ 051-742-7852 ₩₩

www.busanhaps.com/food/ga-korean-bbqCheolma Hanwoo Bulgogi 051-709-4000 ₩₩₩Drunken Shrimp 051-747-9334 ₩₩✔

www.busanhaps.com/food/drunken-shrimpJagalchi Eel 051-742-5387 ₩₩www.busanhaps.com/food/jagalchi-eelMaris 051-704-8870Somunnan 051-746-0003 ₩₩www.busanhaps.com/food/somunnan-beef-rib

MexicanFuzzy Navel 051-746-6439 ₩₩✔

www.fuzzynavel.co.krHello Kimchi 051-701-5199 ₩www.busanhaps.com/food/hello-kimchi-mexicanTaco El Puebla 051-747-6003 ₩www.busanhaps.com/food/taco-al-pueblaTaco Senora 051-744-4050 ₩www.busanhaps.com/food/taco-senora

ThaiHello Thai 051-731-5033 ₩₩VegetarianLoving Hut 051-747-2979 ₩₩www.lovinghut.kr

VietnamesePho Kim 051-740-4868 ₩www.busanhaps.com/food/pho-kim

Fast Food

McDonalds - 1600-5252 (30 locations in Busan)www.mcdonalds.co.krLotteria - 1600-9999www.lotteria.comBurger King- No delivery (7 locations in Busan)www.burgerking.co.krPopeye’s Chicken - No delivery (10 locations in Busan)www.popeyes.co.krKFC - No delivery (7 locations in Busan)www.kfckorea.comQuiznos - No delivery (4 locations in Busan)www.quiznos.co.krDunkin Donuts - No delivery (45 locations in Busan)www.dunkindonuts.co.krMister Donut - No delivery (5 locations in Busan)misterdonut.gsretail.comBaskin Robbins - No delivery (66 locations in Busan)www.baskinrobbins.co.kr

Pizza

Dominos - 1577-3082www.dominos.co.krPapa John’s - 1577-8080www.pji.co.krPizza Hut - 1588-5588www.pizzahut.co.kr

Mr. Pizza - 1577-0077www.mrpizza.co.krPizza Etang - 1688-3651www.pizzaetang.com

Family Restaurants

RECOMMENDED RESTAURANT

Though it doubles as a bar, Sharky’s features a great menu, complete with a variety of dishes from salads, to fajitas to steaks. Located on the second floor in the Pale de CZ building just off Haeundae Beach, it is the perfect place to take a break from the beach and enjoy a great, af-fordable meal with a couple of cocktails. Summertime take-away cocktail pitcher bags are also available. 010-4038-2907 ₩✔

www.busanhaps.com/food/sharkys-bar-and-grill

SHARKY’S


Hotel Guide

for a cheap night’s rest. 82-51-241-4301www.pusanhotel.co.kr

Toyoko Inn (Jung-gu)Affordably priced hotel, clean and 10 minutes away from the train station. 82-51-442-1045www.toyoko-inn.com

Phoenix Hotel (Jung-gu)Highly trained staff, close to Nampodong. Popular with Japanese tourists. 82-51-245-8061www.hotelphoenix.net

Elysee Hotel (Jung-gu)Affordable hotel with good amenities. Close to Nampodong. 82-51-241-4008www.elyseemotel.com

Gukje Hotel (Busan Station)About 3 km away from the train station, close to Citi-zen’s Hall. 82-51-642-1330www.hotelkukje.com

Toyoko Inn (Busan Station)The second location, this one is a minute away from the train station. 82-51-442-1045www.toyoko-inn.com

Paragon Hotel (Sasang-gu)Business comfort, with close proximity to Gimhae International Airport. 82-51-328-2001www.hotelparagon.com/

Indy House (Kyungsung University)Super cheap, dorm-style room right in the heart of Kyungsung. 82-70-8615-6442

Busan Central Hotel (Yeonsan-dong)Adjacent to Yeonsan rotary, located 10 minutes away from City Hall. 82-51- 866-6225www.centralhotel.co.kr

Haeundae

The Westin ChosunDo it right and crash in the same room George W. Bush did. 82-51-749-7000 www.starwoodhotels.com

Paradise HotelOn the water, with a casino, excellent spa and a pool. 82-51-742 2121 www.para-disehotel.co.kr

Seacloud HotelLuxury stay, with great restaurants. Short walk to the beach. 82-51-933-1000 www.seacloudhotel.com

Haeundae Centum HotelNear Shinsegae and BEXCO. Good subway ac-cess. 82-51-720-9000 www.centumhotel.co.kr

Sunset Hotel72 rooms with, according to the site, “individual design concepts.” 82-51-730-9900 www.sunsethotel.co.kr

Novotel AmbassadorOn the beach. Great ocean view, Murpii Nightclub. 82-51-743-1234www.novotelbusan.com

Grand HotelOne of the cheaper spots on the strip, but still at the beach. 82-51-740-0610 www.grandhotel.co.kr

Hotel Illua Dalmaji HillLovely hotel with stunning views from its perch on Dalmaji Hill. 82-51-744-1331 www.hotelillua.com

Hanwha Resort Beautiful views of Oryuk-do, the bridge and close to the beach. 82-1588-2299www.hanwharesort.co.kr

Busan Youth Hostel Arpina Opened in 2004, a cheap place to stay for the night. Culture center inside. 82-51-731-9800www.arpina.co.kr

Business and Beach HotelLocated in central Haeun-dae, with easy access to the local historical sites. 82-51-742-3219www.bnbhotel.co.kr

Other Areas

Lotte Hotel (Seomyeon)Lotte runs a tight ship and it shows in the generous customer service here. 82-51-810-1000 www.lot-tehotelbusan.com

Toyoko Inn (Seomyeon)Across from Migliore, com-fortable, clean and afford-able. 82-51-442-1045www.toyoko-inn.com

Crown Hotel (Seomyeon) Mid-range hotel decorated in Korean style, good for travellers. 82-51-635-1241www.fnetravel.com/english/pusanhotels/crown.html

Hotel Nong Shim (Oncheonjeong)Great area around the hotel, head north to PNU for original Busan nightlife. 82-51-550-2100 www.hotel-nongshim.com

Homers Hotel (Gwangan)Right on Gwangan beach amdist the myriad of cafes, bars and restaurants. 82-51-750-8000 www.homer-shotel.com

Aqua Palace (Gwangan)Beautiful view of the Dia-mond Bridge, right in the middle of the beach. 82-51-756-0202www.aquapalace.co.kr

Commodore Hotel (Jung-gu)Beautifully designed tradi-tional hotel. Close proximity to Busan Station. 82-51-461-9703www.commodore.co.kr

Busan Tourist Hotel (Jung-gu)Conveniently located next to the train station. Good

Haeundae

Other Areas


Bar GuideKyungsungdae

Haeundae

Gwanang-li

PNU

Seomyeon

Almost Famouswww.busanhaps.com/nightlife/almost-famousBlue Monkeywww.busanhaps.com/nightlife/blue-monkeyCafe Radiowww.busanhaps.com/nightlife/cafe-radioClub Fabricwww.busanhaps.com/nightlife/club-fabricDugout Barwww.busanhaps.com/nightlife/dugoutEva’swww.busanhaps.com/nightlife/eva’sGhettowww.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ghettoHQ Barwww.busanhaps.com/nightlife/hq-barKino Eyewww.busanhaps.com/nightlife/kino-eyeLong. T Barwww.busanhaps.com/nightlife/long-t-barMonk’s Jazz Clubwww.busanhaps.com/nightlife/monks-jazz-clubOl’55www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ol’55Painted Chair Cafewww.busanhaps.com/nightlife/painted-chair-cafeThe New Foxywww.busanhaps.com/nightlife/new-foxyVinyl Undergroundwww.busanhaps.com/nightlife/vinylZip Codewww.busanhaps.com/nightlife/zip-code

Starfacewww.busanhaps.com/nightlife/starfaceSuntory Japanesewww.busanhaps.com/nightlife/suntory-japaneseThe Wolfhound Pubwww.wolfhoundpub.comThursday Partywww.busanhaps.com/nightlife/thursday-partyU2 Barwww.busanhaps.com/nightlife/u2-bar

Beach Bikiniwww.busanhaps.com/nightlife/beach-bikiniBeached Cafe and Sports Barwww.busanhaps.com/nightlife/beached-cafe-sports-barClub 3fwww.busanhaps.com/nightlife/club-3fEnoch Mansionwww.busanhaps.com/nightlife/enoch-mansionFuzzy Navelwww.busanhaps.com/nightlife/fuzzy-navel-1Holloway Road Party Pubwww.busanhaps.com/nightlife/holloway-road-party-pubHollywood Starwww.busanhaps.com/nightlife/hollywood-starLuna Basswww.busanhaps.com/nightlife/lunabassThursday Partywww.busanhaps.com/nightlife/thursday-party-0WA Barwww.busanhaps.com/nightlife/wa-bar

Crossroadswww.busanhaps.com/nightlife/crossroadsInterplaywww.busanhaps.com/nightlife/interplayMonkswww.busanhaps.com/nightlife/monksRed Bottlewww.busanhaps.com/nightlife/red-bottleSoultranewww.busanhaps.com/nightlife/soultraneThe Basementwww.busanhaps.com/nightlife/basement

Champion Night Clubwww.busanhaps.com/nightlife/champion-night-clubFoxywww.busanhaps.com/nightlife/foxy-seomyeon

Busan Global Center 1577-7716

Tourist Info in English, Japanese & Chinese 1330

Gimhae Airport Tourist Information Center – International 82-51-973-2800

Gimhae Airport Tourist Information Center – Domestic 82-51-973-4607

Busan Station Tourist Information Center 82-51-441-6565

International Ferry Terminal Tourist Information Center 82-51-465-3471

Radio (English eFM) FM 90.5

Directory & Assistance

i

Fuzzy Navelwww.busanhaps.com/nightlife/fuzzy-navel-0Guri Barwww.busanhaps.com/nightlife/guri-barJudie Nine Brauwww.busanhaps.com/nightlife/judie-nine-brauMetal Citywww.busanhaps.com/nightlife/metal-cityRock n’ Roll Barwww.busanhaps.com/nightlife/rock-n-roll-barThe Old Record Barwww.busanhaps.com/nightlife/old-record-barThe Spotwww.busanhaps.com/nightlife/thespot Thursday Partywww.busanhaps.com/nightlife/thursday-party-1

247 Loungewww.busanhaps.com/nightlife/247-loungeBillie Jeanwww.busanhaps.com/nightlife/billie-jeanClub Elunewww.busanhaps.com/nightlife/club-eluneDrunken Shrimp Barwww.busanhaps.com/nightlife/drunken-shrimp-barFuzzy Navelwww.busanhaps.com/nightlife/fuzzy-navelGeckoswww.busanhaps.com/nightlife/geckos-bar-and-grillMaktumwww.busanhaps.com/nightlife/maktumMiami 88www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/miami-88-no1Murpiiwww.busanhaps.com/nightlife/murpii-barNeo Starface Mipowww.busanhaps.com/nightlife/neo-starface-mipoRock n’ Roll Housewww.busanhaps.com/nightlife/rock-n-roll-houseSharky’swww.busanhaps.com/nightlife/sharkys-bar


HLastWord

THARP ON:

TRAVEL

ravel. That’s why many of us are here, right? We’ve fallen in love with the idea. It certainly was the driv-ing factor that originally brought me to these rocky shores… well, that and the $78 in my Bank of Ameri-

ca checking account at the time. I came to Korea to savor Asia and see more of the world, and I must say that I’ve succeeded marvelously, though what began as a benign passion has now raged into a full-blown addiction. I’m hooked. I got the travel Jones real bad. It consumes me, coursing through my veins like hot whisky. I am compelled to throw wads of cash at airline tickets with every extended break that comes my way. And during the static periods—those times when I’m not traveling—there is but one thought reverberating through my big head: Where am I gonna go next?

Why is this? Why do I want to see so much? Why do I need so badly to go somewhere else? Is it just the concen-trated fun? The utter lack of responsibil-ity? After all, who doesn’t like not having to go to work every day? Who doesn’t enjoy long meals every night and the thought of going to a brand new place the next morning? Traveling is a privilege, a luxury of the high-est order that sometimes borders on the obscene. It’s often done in countries where the people are so destitute that, for most, it’s not even on the menu. I recall once floating down an emerald river on an inner tube while locals waded in the shal-lows, picking weeds for dinner. This is a gulf, I thought, and was grateful to be on the good side, though I couldn’t help feeling a sticky sense of shame take hold in my gut. I realized then and there that I was a very lucky, pampered ass.

Like many expats in this part of the world, I often head down to Southeast Asia. It’s hot, cheap, and fantastically beautiful. I love the languid rhythms of the region. I love tromping through the jungle, swimming beneath waterfalls, buzzing through back road villages on 100cc motorbikes, and the bliss of an ice-cold beer after a day in the withering heat. Going there is always a thrill; life goes on at a natural pace in such places. There’s something about visiting these countries that feels genuine.

I’m not the only one who feels this way, of course. Strap on a backpack and hit the circuit, and you will find many kindred travelers. Many of these folks are among the best that their re-spective countries have to offer—genuinely kind people who have ventured outside of their borders to connect with oth-ers. This doesn’t apply to everyone, however. Southeast Asia is a known haven for miscreants and scumbags. One visit to Phnom Phen or Pattaya is enough to drive this point home. You don’t have to look too far to see troggy old dudes with distended guts wandering hand in hand with scandalously young girls. It’s a pervert’s paradise. And there’s also another breed of traveler, that brand of vagabond with superior dread-

locks and a sheen of smugness, who, despite the trappings of broad-mindedness, never fails to chafe my sack:

“Yeah, man. I went to Cambodia in ’92, before it was ‘cool.’ People walked down the streets with rocket launchers. You could buy land mines at the bar. It was real then. Now it’s over-run with yahoos. I wouldn’t even bother going. Cambodia sold out a long time ago. Did you see that guy with the melted face and two stumps for arms begging outside of the S-21 prison museum? I know for a fact that he has a business manager.”

I was once hanging out with some backpackers on a river island in southern Laos. When I told them that I was just out for one month, one of them—a hulking Swiss girl—rolled her eyes and chimed in:

“Ja. Ven you are just going for one month, you are a tourist; Ven you do it for nine you are a traveler” (points to herself). Let me tell you now that I fantasized throwing her chocolate-eating, clock-making, neutral, Holocaust-gold hoarding ass into the Mekong for the next five torturous days. I have never understood this sense of one-upmanship — this need to prove superiority — that is more prevalent among the backpacker set than heat rash or scabies.

Growing up, I remember often hearing about the “Ugly Amer-ican,” but I have yet to see a lot of that guy in Southeast Asia. Instead, it’s more often the Europeans who act like jackasses. I’ve been castigated by Scandinavians for paying twenty cents too much for sunglasses; I’ve witnessed fiery Spaniards wage war over an apparent overcharge on a seven dollar guesthouse bill; once, in Vietnam, I saw an emaciated, chain-smoking Frenchman hurl his plate at the terrified waitress, shouting:

“I have waited ONE HOUR for zis SHIT food!!!”But it’s all part of the gig, right? Traveling shouldn’t be easy

all the time. Sometimes you’ll get ripped off. Sometimes you’ll get lost. Sometimes you’ll crap your pants on a fourteen hour bus ride over a hellishly rough road. Sometimes you’ll meet an incredibly rude couple from Belgium who blame you personally for the Second Gulf War, but when balanced against the good things—against the thrill, against the wonder, against the pure joy of exploring this amazing world—it’s very, very worth it.

So throw on your pack, grab your passport and get out there, while we still have a world to see.

Chris Tharp’s upcoming book, “Dispatches from the Penin-sula: Six Years in South Korea,” will be available on Signal 8 Press later this year.

T

During the static periods—those times when I’m not traveling—there is but one thought reverberating through my big head: Where am I gonna go next?

By Chris Tharp



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