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CULTURED LIVING Why the Austrians know how to live // TIROL Alpine inspiration // VORARLBERG Putting body and soul into cheese-making // SALZKAMMERGUT On the trail of salt // HOHE TAUERN NATIONAL PARK One big attraction // DANUBE VALLEY Enjoying the highlights on a Danube cycle tour // CARINTHIA Yearning for the lakes // STYRIA Earthy, Styrian, and authentic // VIENNA Imperial and dynamic

www.austria.info

A journey to somewhere special

Austria

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Contents

01 Cultured living Austrians are famed for knowing how to liveSo why is that?

02 TirolAlpine inspirationA walk from lodge to lodge along the Berliner Höhenweg // The best walks in the Alps

06 VorarlbergPutting body and soul into cheese-makingThe magnificent tradition of Vorarlberg Bergkäse // Wood architecture in the Bregenzerwald, and the Bregenz Festival

08 Salzkammergut On the trail of salt A discovery tour in the world’s oldest salt-mine // The sights of the Salzkammergut

12 Hohe Tauern National ParkRanger experiencesExperience Nature’s treasures with a National Park ranger // Tips for outings, gems of nature and secret special places in Hohe Tauern National Park

16 Flowing with the Danube A Danube cycle tourA piece of history awaits around every bend // The major sights of the Danube valley // Cultural highlights by the Danube

22 CarinthiaDiving into the land of lakes A night-time adventure into the waters of the Weissensee: the fascination of an untouched, mystical world

24 StyriaEarthy, authentic, StyrianStyria has a long tradition associated with the pumpkin - a visit to a pumpkin farmer // The most beautiful sights in Styria

28 Vienna Imperial and dynamicFrom delightful designer shops to colourful markets, Vienna revels in its dynamic side // The best events in Vienna // Inspiring excursions in the Vienna area

Editorial

Austria combines dreamlike natural landscapes, from the Alps to the Danube to the Pannonian plain. And in between these, you can discover many interesting places and stories that make up this country: the Berliner Höhenweg walking route; the Salzkammergut with its unique salt mining tradition; the unspoilt natural paradise of the National Parks and the area around the Carinthian lakes; wonderful riverscapes; and Vienna – a city whose Imperial past remains tangible but which is also young and dynamic.

But to be honest, however impressive the Alps, however clear the lakes and however idyllic the towns may be – the thing that ultimately makes a country special are the people who live there. There is nothing more pleasant than sharing personal moments of happiness with other cheerful people. And the Austrians, in particular, are known for their relaxed way of living, their informality – and for their unique sense of humour. A well-known cultural analyst considers them the European champions when it comes to entertainment.

And this much is certain: you will experience a special mentality amongst these people. And a country that knows how to live. With this in mind, I wish you moments that will stay with you forever. With welcoming hosts whom you will remember fondly for a long time.

Yours, Petra StolbaCEO, Austrian National Tourist Office (ANTO)

Publishing details. Editor and publisher:

Österreich Werbung, Vordere Zollamtstrasse 13,

1030 Vienna. ZVR number: 075857630.

Project management: Eva Maria Mayrhuber,

Dr. Michael Scheuch. Editorial: Margit Turac,

Andreas Kerschbaumer, Michaela Schwarz,

Martin Betz, Barbara Moser. Research: Monika

Plank, Sandra Sigl. Graphics: Gabi Cer.

Typesetting: Blaupapier, Printing: Grasl Druck &

Neue Medien GmbH. Date March 2015. E&OE.


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As visitors leave Austria, they are often keen to write a few lines in the visitors’ book. So you come across comments like this: “No wonder you are in such a good mood for the day, every day

– given this wonderful countryside and this mild climate.” Or: “You really know how to live life.” Austrians certainly have a special way of thinking about things. And that doesn’t mean the clichés you can see – not dancing the waltz, the Empress Sisi or the Alpine farmer. Instead, it means an attitude of mind. The very thing that holds the country together.

In the earlier multi-people state, the Austrians developed a special ability – the ability to make compromises, in order to then live quite magnificently with the compromises made. And the unmistakeable qualities of the Austrian people are directly linked to that. The relaxed approach the Austrians take in their day-to-day living, and even when tackling difficult challenges. An attitude which says

“it won’t be that bad”. The calmness shown in the event that something does go wrong.

“Well, it could have been worse,” is what they say then.

“Life is a tragedy – composed of many comedies”, says the Austrian cabaret artist Hugo Wiener. The Austrians clearly prefer to focus on the comedies, and on the happy side of life. Which is why Austrians also have such a love of full-on entertainment. Whether high up in the Tirol mountains, in the Salzkammergut, in the Wachau region or in the Styrian vineyards, the Austrian is a European champion when it comes to entertainment.

Perhaps that is why visitors here feel so relaxed and welcomed. “Austria was a stranger, in whose house you could feel at home,” wrote the Swiss author Gabrielle Allioth, commenting on her first visit to Austria.

A country that knows how to live

ESSAY

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T IROL

Getting up at four a.m. and hiking by head-lamp? Whoever dreamt up such a ridiculous idea? What…I did? Well then, what a fabulous idea! My two companions roll out from under the covers with great

suspicion, and gradually it all comes flooding back: the previous evening, we had dined in the Berliner Hütte lodge in the wood-panelled “Rittersaal” (or “Knights’ Hall”) beneath hand-carved chandeliers, indulging in recollections of the day and making fresh plans for the next. At this ocean liner amongst the Alpine shelters, it was easy to come up with high-spirited ideas.

Any number of them, in fact: with pride, we determined that we had found a use for everything we were carrying in our rucksacks during the six days on the Berliner Höhenweg. We listed them: the sleeping bags, which we had used each night, as we were walking daily from lodge to lodge; the sun-cream we had needed more than once, particularly the time that we were all stretched out on the magnificent cotton grass meadow of the Unterschrahnbach corrie one sunny afternoon. The hat and gloves came in handy on the steep ridge of the Schönbichlerhorn, as an icy wind blew round our ears. We even had the benefit of our earplugs when, one night in the lodges, the distinct sound of someone sawing could be heard.

The candles, too, got used, even if only to enhance the mood as we delighted in the magnificent starry sky outside the Olperer Hütte. We really had had a use for everything – it was just the head-lamps, definitely the head-lamps, brought along as additional lighting for emergency use, which we hadn’t used. And that’s when we hit on the idea: we wanted to set out before daybreak, so that we could experience dawn over the Schwarzsee lake. My idea! And now here we are, standing in the darkness in front of the Berliner Hütte, this protected building and the “mother of all lodges”, which can offer

such comfort, a soft bed and so much more, and about to swap it for a darkened openness in the Zillertal Alps. So much for allowing the schnapps to inspire your thinking!But after just a few paces, we notice that we aren’t the only ones to be getting up early. A few metres away, a marmot is whistling, and a little later on we spot chamois clambering on Rossrugg, a mountain where until a few decades ago they were still mining for garnet. The climb through this high moorland is an old mule-track, used in its day to transport goods from A to B. And not always entirely legally. Given the hour and the darkness of sleep around us, we too feel a little like the smugglers, said to have smuggled wine, tobacco and even car tyres from these parts to Italy.

But now the dawn is breaking, and a thick cloud edges across the spot where we thought we had detected the sun. When a gentle drizzle hits us, the displeasure of my two companions seems to be on the point of boiling over. Luckily, though, they are still too sleepy to be able to articulate it! So, on with the caps and headgear again. But a little later a strong breeze gets up, known locally as the “Oberwind”, and edges the thick cloud away. Before the sun rises, and in just ninety minutes’ walking time, we succeed in reaching the Schwarzsee, which is now anything but the black of its name. In the first light of day the glaciers are mirrored in it, so close you could touch them. And now, in the first rays of sunlight, the gleaming red rock faces of an entire range of 3,000m peaks – Berliner Spitze, Turnerkamp and Grosser Möseler – shimmer as they are reflected in the turquoise-blue waters of this mountain lake. It’s one magnificent spectacle! And right now, recliners would be just fine! But sitting on the mossy ground is great too. And the eyes of my companions are shining every bit as brightly as the rising sun! Sometimes, I think to myself, my ideas aren’t so bad after all.

Alpine inspirationThe Berliner Höhenweg, high in the Zillertal Alps, promises pure adventure. Even at very unusual times of the day.

Berliner Höhenweg

A very challenging, eight-day circular tour in

the Zillertal Alps Nature Park. The day stages

take walkers from lodge to lodge, along

well-signed paths and climbs over Alpine and

high Alpine terrain.

Some tours are suitable for families with

children: for example, the section to the

Schwarzsee described here. The lodge is open

from mid-June to late October. An overnight stay

should be booked in advance.

Tel.: +43 5286/52 23 or +43 676/705 14 73.

The Zillertal Nature Park has a range of all-

inclusive trekking offers for stays of between two

and seven nights. Price includes reservations

for overnight stays in the lodges, map materials,

bus vouchers, etc. For information,

tel. +43 5286/521 81 or +43 664/120 54 05,

or e-mail: [email protected]

1 // Lechtal AlpsOn the Darwinskopf, a peak in the Lechtal Alps

in Tirol, close on 3,000m.

2 // The ZillertalBreathtaking hiking on the Berliner Höhenweg.

3 // Alpine wildlife Chamois in the Austrian Alps.

4 // The glass-clear SchwarzseeThe Schwarzsee, on the Berliner Höhenweg, is

close on 2,500m above sea level.

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Walking the mountains over several days means not only exploring nature in depth, but also a kind of philosophy of life, an inner journey, on which you are constantly challenged to engage with yourself. If you are committing yourself to extended hikes, there’s one thing above all you need to bring with you: plenty of time.

Trekking tours require a certain measure of fitness, and you certainly shouldn’t consider a multi-day tour unless you have done some training. In terms of equipment, you need both light clothing for good weather and warm clothing, such as a good anorak, gloves, a woollen hat and rain gear in the event that it turns cold. It’s equally vital to have a guide and good maps. But the most important thing is the shoes: medium-weight climbing boots and a sole with good grip are advisable. For the overnight stays in the lodges, a sleeping bag is a good idea, and you should carry a towel too. For members of the Alpine Association (Alpenverein) or other organisations such as the conservation group Naturfreunde, there are discounted rates for stays in the lodges run by these bodies.

Stubaier Höhenweg: This challenging mountain route crosses the Stubai Alps and offers breathtaking high Alpine views over the glaciers in this range in Tirol. The Innsbrucker Hütte, at the starting-point of the route, was built on precisely the transition-point between two zones of rock: between crystalline rock and limestone. All eight lodges along the Stubaier Höhenweg are at over 2,000m above sea level, with opportunities to descend into the valley from each of the lodges. This means it is possible to walk just a section of the full route. As well as being in good physical shape, walkers will need to be sure-footed and have no fear of heights in order to cope with the climbs, some of which are secured with ropes. The rewards come in the form of an

incomparable diversity of Alpine flora, magnificent resting-points beside mountain lakes, peaks offering stunning views into the far distance, and lodges where regional Tirolean fare awaits.Overall length: 120 kmmetres climbed: 8,000, day stages: 8www.stubaier-hoehenweg.at

The Adlerweg (“Eagles’ Route”) is not a circular tour, but a network of hiking routes that cover the Tirol. Its name derives from the shape of the routes, which resemble the outstretched wings of an eagle. The main route runs via 23 stages from St. Johann in Tirol to St. Anton am Arlberg – a route likely to take more than three weeks. And if aiming to include the many regional routes, which extend as far as East Tirol, you would need to cover a full 1,480 km. For that reason, it’s advisable to put together your very own Adlerweg, using the various individual routes. For instance, the countryside is beautiful during the several days of walking along the main route between Stages 2 and 8, starting “im Koasa” (in the Kaisergebirge mountains) and running via Kufstein, extensive areas of upland pasture and the Rofangebirge before finishing at the Achensee, Tirol’s biggest lake. Overall length (main route): 280 kmmetres climbed: 29,745, day stages: 23www.adlerweg.com

Salzburger Almenweg: Salzburg is the land of the Alpine meadow. There are over 1,800 managed meadows extending over a quarter of the area of this Federal province. Over 31 stages, the Salzburger Almenweg links 120 of these meadows and farms, many of which can provide travellers with specialities such as local milk, cheese, butter, quark, yoghurt, bread, bacon or home-distilled schnapps. The route crosses the whole of the Pongau region, offering fantastic views of Dachstein, Tennengebirge, Hochkönig

Austria’s high-level routes offer plenty of opportunity for inner reflection and stop-overs. The stops are provided by a dense network of shelters, or lodges.

1 // The Karnische HöhenwegA long-distance hiking route in an overwhelming

scenery.

2// The Schladming Tauern HöhenwegMoutnain lakes, brooks and waterfalls make it a

varied and engergizing route.

IN THE ALPS

From Alpine lodge to Alpine lodge

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IN THE ALPS

and the glacier-filled world of the Hohe Tauern. Here, too, the advice is to choose a section of the Almenweg and to put together your own customised route. Even if it means that you have to forego any number of meadows and lodges, you will soon discover that no meadow or farm is like the others. Each one has its own special features and its own delicious specialities to offer. Overall length: 350 km, day stages: 31www.salzburger-almenweg.at

The Karnische Höhenweg in Carinthia runs along the Austrian-Italian border in a series of climbs and descents. You should allow around six days for the full route, between the Plöckenpass and Sillian in East Tirol. Sparse limestone landscapes alternate here with rich Alpine meadows – and the cheese that is made on many of the Alpine farms is a delicious energiser during your stop-offs en route. But the real attraction of the Carnic Alps is their geological make-up; there is hardly anywhere else where the earth’s history has left such clear traces behind as here. Fossils of mussels, brachiopods and sea lilies in the rock are impressive evidence that the Carnic mountains were a gigantic coral reef in an ancient ocean 365 million years ago. “Geo-trails”, for instance around the idyllic Wolayer See lake, feature display boards on nature walks to provide information about this fossilised evidence of the formation of the continent, over millions of years. Overall length: 70 kmmetres climbed: 7,242, day stages: 6www.alpi-carniche.com

The Alpe-Adria Trail is a true long-distance trail, running from the high mountains to the Adriatic, thereby crossing three countries: Austria, Italy and Slovenia. It starts in Carinthia and runs from the highest mountain in Austria, the Grossglockner, via the Nockberg mountains

and the Carinthian lakes to Kranjska Gora in Slovenia, and from there on to Muggia. With 43 stages and 690 kilometres of the trail, it is not a route to be tackled in one go. The emphasis is on walking for pleasure. Most stages require around six hours’ walking time, with as few climbs and descents as possible, particularly in the non-Alpine sections. Each stage features at least one “Magical Spot”, inviting the walker to stop for a while in a jewel in the landscape. A number of tourism organisations offer customised trekking packages, focussing on different themes. Overall length: 690 kmmetres climbed: 26,000, day stages: 43www.alpe-adria-trail.com

The Schladminger-Tauern-Höhenweg runs through one of the most remote and unspoilt mountain landscapes in Austria. Over seven day stages, the walker undertakes a circular tour of the Schladminger Tauern, in a veritable adventure into nature filled with forests of Swiss pine, wild streams, extensive uplands and Alpine valleys. The particular charm of this trail comes from the diverse bodies of water encountered en route: no fewer than 300 mountain lakes and 150 waterfalls entice walkers to tarry, to watch and simply to experience. A highlight in the landscape is the ‘Königsetappe’, through the Klafferkessel to the Preintaler Hütte. The Klafferkessel is a high plateau carved by a glacier and home to 30 shimmering mountain lakes of turquoise blue, dominated by the bizarre rock form of the Greifenstein: it absolutely demands to be photographed! For all parts of this trail, the walker needs to have some Alpine experience, to be sure-footed, and in some places a good head for heights. It is possible to descend into the valley from each of the lodges along the trail. Overall length: 71 kmmetres climbed: 5,552, day stages: 7www.schladming-dachstein.at

3 // The Salzburger AlmenwegA great number of Alpine lodges offer delicious

local specialties.

4 // The AdlerwegIt’s a spectacular hiking route leading through

the entire Tirolean province.

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1 // Wood architecture in VorarlbergModern and authentic, adapted to the natural

environment, and yet extraordinary: wood

architecture in the Ludescherberg.

VORARLBERG

Sometimes, all that’s needed to experience the joy of living is a good piece of cheese.

The bells ring out across the whole of the village. It’s a genuine folk festival, as the colourfully-decorated cows are brought down off the mountains at the end of the summer and progress past the old shingle-clad houses. Right across the Bregenzerwald, the end of summer is celebrated in much the same way as here in the narrow streets of Schwarzenberg, as the cows are welcomed home. It’s truly a festival for the people – absolutely everyone is out in the street, and there’s

hardly a face that isn’t beaming with pleasure. However, if a cow dies on the upland pasture during the summer or in late spring in the lower fields, then the “Almabtrieb” (or “herding home”) is performed without the decorative touches. But that practically never happens: it seems that the air here is too good, the hay too fresh, and the cows too happy – along with the people. It’s certainly not at all difficult to be very satisfied here, in this pleasant countryside of green rolling hills, extensive forests and mountain peaks that are covered in snow until the early summer. Cheese is omnipresent in the Bregenzerwald – and the dairymen, now likewise garlanded with flowers and wreaths, have fashioned it by hand up on the mountains, following an ancient tradition, producing what is known as “Alpkäse”.

“For me, every cheese has a name,” says Hermann Berchtold from Schwarzenberg, who makes his Bergkäse cheese by hand even when down in the valley. By that, he means that every block of cheese is turned and brushed by hand rather than by machine. “Dairy-making like this is certainly a lot more physically demanding, but it is also tied to a sense of feel, touch and taste,” Berchtold says. And it’s something you can taste too – the fresh, unpasteurised milk and the natural rennin give the cheese its distinctive, full flavour. The cheerful joie de vivre of Vorarlberg can similarly be sensed in its buildings. Across the whole province, its wood architecture communicates a comfortable and sensuous enjoyment of life; everywhere, the visitor can appreciate the high craft skills using this regional material. The cradle of this architecture lies in the Bregenzerwald. The old farmhouses with their wooden shingle facades and the typical “Schopf” – a kind of conservatory in front of the entrance – served as the model for this new architecture using natural materials: now given a contemporary interpretation in a sleek and elegant style with clear lines. It appears that the people of Vorarlberg have it all – apart from the seaside, perhaps. But then again, they do have Lake Constance. Alongside the Lake nestles the province’s capital, Bregenz, a place where southern flair and cultural initiatives come together in a delightful symbiosis: for instance, on the world’s largest lake stage at the Bregenz Festival, or the radiant cube of the Kunsthaus art gallery, whose glass facade reflects the light from the sky and the lake.

The people of Vorarlberg exhibit an unpretentious mix of pride and modesty. The modesty comes from a time when the province was still poor – a time not all that long ago – while the pride comes from a resilience which has a longer history. This fight and resilience is evident, for instance, in the defiant castles and fortresses in Feldkirch, which is amongst the best-preserved medieval cities in Austria, or in Hohenems, with the castle ruin of Alt-Ems and Schloss Glopper castle. The town’s Jewish Museum reflects the fact that, from the 17th century onward, it was home to a flourishing Jewish cultural and social life. And there is a further regional indication of its modesty: its language, where the diminutive form above all is the rule. The fact that this sweet-sounding alphabet soup is practically unintelligible anywhere else in Austria doesn’t worry the people too much. After all they naturally switch to using “High German”, the standard form of the language, whenever necessary.

The whole-heartedness of life

CHEESE IN VORARLBERG: Vorarlberg still practises three-level farming. In

autumn and winter, the cows are kept down in the

valley; in early summer, they are taken up into the

low-lying pastures (known as the “Vorsässen”),

and in July and August they graze high up, in Al-

pine meadows at altitudes of up to 2,000 metres.

The cheese made there is known as Alpkäse. The

cheeses made elsewhere are called Bergkäse,

and these account for most of the production.

KäseStrasse: The “KäseStrasse Bregenzerwald”

(“Bregenzerwald Cheese Trail”) is an association

of farmers, dairymen, publicans, craftsmen and

traders. In the region’s biggest cheese cellar, in

Lingenau, a total of 32,000 rounds of cheese

are stored and matured. Visitors can sample the

various types of cheese made there.

Bregenzerwälder Käsekeller, Zeihenbühl 423,

6951 Lingenau

Opening times of the cheese shop in the foyer:

Mondays to Fridays 10.00-18.00, Saturdays

9.00-17.00

www.kaesestrasse.at

WOOD ARCHITECTURE:Werkraum: 80 architects, master builders and

craftsmen in the Bregenzerwald region have come

together to form the “Werkraum” (“workshop”)

association. www.werkraum.at

CULTURE:Bregenz Festival: Giaccomo Puccinis

“Turandot” is the opera being performed this

year at the opera festival on Lake Constance.

The première is on 22 July 2015.

www.bregenzerfestspiele.com

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SALZKAMMERGUT

Salt has brought this country incredible wealth. And in the oldest salt mine in the world, we dip into the history of the “white gold”.How did the salt get to the Salzkammergut? We could practically touch the answer at the Hallstätter See lake. We only needed to run our gaze along the bank, where nature has left just enough space for a few houses to be built on the edge of the mountain slope, and up to the Salzberg that lies practically hidden behind this spectacular landscape of forest, rocks and water. It is precisely this mountain that has made the region rich, with its “white gold” that has been mined here for no less than 7,000 years. That’s where we are making for – the oldest salt mine in the world. Firstly by cable-car, and then a ten minute walk to the head of the mine, along an idyllic forest path, little suspecting that you are actually walking across a prehistoric grave site. The finds here were so rich that an entire epoch was named after Hallstatt, the Hallstatt Period (800 to 400 B.C.). But how did so much salt get into the Hallstatt mountain – there’s no sea for miles and miles around…? We find out more after a breath-tak-ing descent into the mountain, using the mine railway. Awaiting us there are massive, backlit salt rocks, shimmering seductively in a reddish gold. You would really like to be a deer and able to lick at it, but as a visitor it doesn’t seem to be the done thing! Children, in particular, are absolutely thrilled when the first miners’ chute takes you 50 metres and a horizon lower (horizons being the mining term for the levels in the mine). Sliding on the seat of your pants, of course!

And finally we’re there – and we have our answer. It is said to have started 240 million years ago, when the ancient continent broke apart and the continental plates drifted away from one another. It must have been an impressive sight back then in the Salzkammergut: endless beaches with a tropical climate. In fact, it was so hot that the lagoons that had formed along the coasts dried out. What was left behind was the salt. And the fact that this salt, millions of years old, was ultimately enclosed in the mountain through volcanic eruptions, mountain formation and plate displacement, so that at some point it can end up in our salt mills and shakers, is one of the wonders of nature that we will probably never be able to fully understand.

But hang on – because you do get to understand it: Alongside a subterranean salt lake, you are plunged into a spectacular multimedia presentation. The mountains rise directly out of the water, bathed in a purple-red light, and the conquering of salt by man is made visible using abstract images on the rock walls. Including the story of the “Man in the salt”, who was sealed in the mountain for thousands of years and was reportedly found here in 1734. Salt, and the constant cool temperature, are the ultimate reasons why everything is preserved in the mountain. And that includes a prehistoric, 3,500-year old wooden ladder that even has adjustable treads. We viewed this on a special tour, after the children absolutely insisted on a second visit to the mountain: they wanted more of those thrilling slides!

On the trail of salt

1 // Traditional minersThe worlds of salt in Hallein, Hallstatt and

Ausseee are an impressive journey back in time.

2 // In the Altaussee salt mineMiners here still extract tons of salt every day.

3 // Hallstatt HeimatmuseumJewelry from the grey mists of ancient time

shows how highly developed the civilisation was

already.

4 //A panoramic view of HallstattThe Hallstatt-Dachstein region is a UNESCO

World Heritage Site.

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Worlds of salt:There are guided tours daily in the show mines

in Hallstatt, Hallein and Altaussee from April to

November. www.salzwelten.at

Salt production today: Salt continues to be extracted today in the mines

at Hallstatt, Bad Ischl and Altaussee. Salinen

Austria AG produces around 1.1 million tonnes of

evaporated salt per year.

www.salinen.com

Natural salt: Natural salt is produced from

the rock mined in Aussee, using an ancient

method. This high-quality rock salt contains 84

minerals, and is therefore far more healthy than

conventional common salt.


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This much beauty cannot be down to chance. 240 million years of the earth’s history have made the Salzkammergut what it is today: a unique landscape with a total of 76 lakes of varying sizes. They are very cool, and can only be considered as bathing lakes on really hot days in summer. But they remain enchanting for their wealth of fish life, their clean water and clear visibility – a veritable Eldorado for anglers, sailors and divers alike.

Happy times and “Grüngeflammtes” green stripe pottery on the TraunseeCrossing the Traunsee on the “Gisela”, the world’s oldest coal-fired paddle-steamer, it’s easy to see why the Romans called this lake “lacus felix”, the happy lake. With the mighty Traunstein massif not far from its shores, it nestles in a unique natural setting. And you absolutely should not miss out on visiting the town of Gmunden. The esplanade alone, where you can stroll along the shore of the lake, already radiates the feeling of urbane sophistication that characterises the town. You can trace this rich tradition, too, with a visit to the Gmunden ceramics factory, which has operated here for 300 years.

Fish speciality at Ort castleSeeschloss Ort is a castle with water defences built in the Traunsee; it is around 1,000 years old, and has a strongly-fortified white tower with a wood shingle roof that already catches the eye from a distance. Ort castle is not only one of the country’s most popular marriage locations, but also a culinary hot-spot. It’s where chef Johann Parzer likes setting up his charcoal barbecue by the lakeside terrace and preparing a unique fish speciality: “Riedling”. This fish is barbecued on small skewers, which is also how it is served. The story of the Riedling has an incredible ring to it. Now only found in Lake Baikal in Siberia and in the Traunsee, it is reputed to be a survivor from the ancient ocean, which means it has lived in these waters for at least 240 million years. For its impressive age, it also tastes astonishingly good.

Sport and inspiration: the AtterseeA veritable hot-spot for water sports enthusiasts! New bathing facilities such as the Seebad Häupl tap into the tradition of the old wooden bathing-houses, and are appreciated not just by tourist visitors, but also by those judging international architecture competitions. For their part, sailors love the “Rosenwind”, a steady easterly that guarantees untroubled sailing and windsurfing pleasure, while divers enthuse about underwater visibility of up to 25 metres. The soft light and the landscape have also inspired famous artists. The composer Gustav Mahler spent his summer days in Steinbach am Attersee, and Gustav Klimt refined his landscape painting here. Today, art-lovers can follow the thematic trail of “Klimt am Attersee” and walk in the steps of this major artist.

A lake with a view: the WolfgangseeThe magic of the shimmering turquoise Wolfgangsee lies primarily in the places that line its banks, with their rich history. For instance, St. Wolfgang with its narrow old town streets and the famous “Weisses Rössl” hotel with its wonderful lakeside terrace. St. Gilgen, with its bathing meadows set amongst fruit trees, radiates a relaxed holiday mood, while Stobl appeals above all to walking enthusiasts. Here, you can walk the Bürglsteinweg – in places on wooden jetties above the water – and take in a tour of the local mountain. There is also a walking route up the Schafberg near St. Wolfgang, although most people choose the comfortable way up using the steepest steam-powered rack railway in Austria. All are rewarded with a breathtaking view of no fewer than 13 of the lakes in the Salzkammergut.

No other landscape embodies the spirit of the country as much as the Salzkammergut. It’s where tradition, culture and regional delicacies all come together.

SALZKAMMERGUT

The ‘Salzkammergut Erlebnis-Card’

Anyone staying for more than three nights

receives a free ‘Salzkammergut Erlebnis-Card’

in all participating regions, offering a discount

of up to 30% on the most popular attractions,

sights and leisure offers in the Salzkammergut.

The 118 offers include boat tours, museum

entry, experiences and sports offers, cycle hire

and boat hire, diving courses, and much more.

The ‘Salzkammergut Erlebnis-Card’ is available

from all tourist offices and information points,

and in many hotels, guest-houses and partner

outlets in the Salzkammergut.

www.salzkammergut.at

In the heart of Austria

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SALZKAMMERGUT

The fjord of the Alps: the Hallstätter SeeWhitefish, charr, lake trout – all these delicious wild fish can be found in practically every lake in the Salzkammergut. The same is true of the Hallstätter See, which enjoys an exceptional wealth of fish due to its impressive depth of 125 metres. On a boat tour, you can take in the view of what is probably one of the prettiest places in the world: Hallstatt – so pretty that it has even been reconstructed in China. But the original cannot be beaten: the old houses and inns cling in picturesque fashion to the mountain slopes. The fact that the name “Hall” is the old Germanic word for salt also explains the ancient cultural and economic history of Hallstatt, where salt is still mined today in the oldest salt-mine in the world.

Living traditionsWherever you go, the Salzkammergut breathes history. You find it expressed, above all, in the customs of the region, and in the old craft traditions that are still practised. Nowhere else in Austria does traditional costume enjoy such respect as it does here. In the Styrian part of the Salzkammergut, in the Ausseerland region, you can find the best costume workshops in the country. It’s where the colourful dirndl fabrics are still produced by hand-printing. Each dirndl is individually adjusted to fit the wearer. And no less traditional are the “Goiserer” – a leather shoe with a double stitch known as a “Zwienaht”, which first saw the light of day in Bad Goisern 140 years ago, as the first mountain boot.

An adventure for the whole familyIf heading on to Salzburg following a circular tour through the Salzkammergut, two special places really merit a stop-off on the way. The first is at Werfen, where the 900-year old fortress of Burg Hohenwerfen rises up atop a steep outcrop of rock. A magnificent sight even when seen from below, you will be even more impressed from the top, with the view through the openings in the battlements towards the rocks of the Tennengebirg. Take an adventure tour, and dive into the world of the Middle Ages, before rounding off the visit with a flying display, largely featuring domestic birds of prey. Only a few kilometres away lies one of the biggest ice caverns in the world, Eisriesenwelt Werfen. On the guided tours of this impressive labyrinth of caves, bizarre ice formations on a gigantic scale lie in wait: icicles arranged like organ-pipes, ice mountains with a 70 metre girth, figures that sometimes resemble the shaggy outline of a polar bear, and sometimes the veil of an ice queen – there’s plenty of scope for a subterranean journey into the realm of the imagination!

And the crowning conclusion: SalzburgReaching Salzburg, you dive into a different world again: the old town, with its cathedral square and Imperial residence, is probably amongst the most beautiful Baroque ensembles in the world, and the Getreidegasse with its wonderful facades invites the visitor to shop, to look, and be amazed. New his-torical and cultural highlights lie in wait at every corner. A visit to the house where Mozart was born and lived should definitely feature in any visit to Salzburg, as should a tour of the strongly-fortified castle of Hohensalzburg, from where princes and archbishops ruled over the city or where, if they were unlucky, they were also held prisoner. Incidentally, they owed their wealth to that valuable raw material that was extracted from the Salzkammergut: salt – for centuries, the most important source of revenue for the city with its impregnable castle, hence Salzburg.

1 // GrundlseeOne of the most picturesque lakes in the region

2 // Craft traditionsThe original “Goiserer” shoes are made in the

same way as 100 years ago.

3 // Schloss OrtIt stands on an island in the Traunsee, near to

the small, historic town of Gmunden.

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Ranger experiences

A herd is coming this way,” whispers Andreas, peering through his field scope. He gestures to the visitors to get ready with their binoculars. Through the lens, we see mountain goats charging around at dizzying heights. Something that, in the past, you would never have seen, the trained National Park ranger explains: “For a long time, mountain goats had been exterminated here in the Ködnitztal valley. But now they have been successfully reintroduced.” The same goes for other

endangered species, from rare butterflies to the golden eagle – with a little luck, you can spot them on a nature watch tour in Kals. “Showing visitors how the animals live in their original environment” is what Andreas hopes to achieve, and he underlines the point with his next sentence: “As a National Park ranger, I am the intermediary between man and nature.”Experiencing the drama of nature close up and unmediated is something best achieved alongside an experienced ranger in the Hohe Tauern National Park. The guides can tell you about the flora and fauna in this, the biggest nature conservation area in the entire Alpine region – and about the 266 3,000-metre peaks encircling it, or the 279 streams, the 26 waterfalls, the 551 lakes and the 10 gorges contained in it.Any time that the harsh winter has taken hold in the high Alps marks the time for Alpine snow-shoe walks. For instance, on this November day, where the matt light gently caresses the majestic rocks. Equipped with provisions and weatherproof clothing, the young ranger Anna is setting off with a six-strong group on a tour to the Virgental in East Tirol. The expedition takes four hours, and during it the disturbance to the wild animals is to be kept to a minimum. “The animals’ energy reserves are very low in any case at this time of year,” Anna knows. With a delicately light tread, the group moves over the deep snow of the fields and forests, to see chamois and mountain goats, eagles and bearded eagles.

“There’s a plant to cure every ailment,” smiles Ranger Matthias. He is standing bent over a rich green summer meadow, and in his hand he is holding the colourful medicinal plants. One person in his party wants to know what they are used for. “St. John’s wort is effective against depressive moods, and arnica against muscle tears,” the expert reveals. The walkers are on a herb walk through Prägraten. The East Tirol countryside through which they pass is picturesque, and the “Sajatmähder” (unspoilt traditional farmland) they are walking over is rich with growth. At the end of the outing, the treasures they have gathered are jointly made into spreads and tinctures.Two of the visitors acknowledge with a smile that they are serial walkers. They have done similar walks with guides several times in the National Park. The last time was on a particularly impressive tour to the Innergschlöss, which more than a few people consider to be the most beautiful valley head in the Eastern Alps. However, they prefer to save up the two-day glacier trip for next year. “For that one, not only do you need to be fit, but you also need a degree of bravery,” explains Andreas. Why? Because you let yourself be lowered directly into a crevasse on the Teischnitzkees glacier, using an abseiling rope. “No worries, though – we bring everyone back up safely,” jokes the ranger. And somehow you readily believe this guardian of the protected countryside space.

HOHE TAUERN NAT IONAL PARK

In the heart of Matrei in East Tirol stands the

Nationalparkhaus. The exhibition on the

Worlds of the Tauern, illustrating the special

aspects of the region, extends over two floors.

Starting with the bronze situla of Welzelach

(a 5th-century BC grave find), it also covers

Stone Age hunting-grounds and looks at the

emergence of smallholder farming in the

region. National Park rangers are also on

hand to offer assistance and explanations.

Preserving diversity: 500 to 700 differ-

ent types of butterfly were counted in a

single regional mountain meadow. If you

register in advance, you can join in a journey

of discovery to find rare examples such

as the Large Blue or the Marsh Fritillary.

The Zedlacher Paradies in the Virgental

valley richly merits its delightful name. An

educational forest walk runs through a larch

forest that is over 500 years old, making it one

of the oldest of its kind in Tirol. It’s fabulous!

1 // Valley of the VulturesIn the Krumtal (Raurisertal), a ranger takes

visitors on a discovery tour to seek out gems

of nature.

Forests, fields and mountains are their patch. Trained rangers guide nature-lovers to discover the most unspoilt corners of the Hohe Tauern National Park.

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The Keltenmuseum Hallein is one of the

most important of its type in Europe. It presents

the ancient world of the Celts, particularly those

of the Alpine region. Its famous prize exhibit is a

2,500-year old pitcher with a tubular spout.

www.keltenmuseum.at

Time to dream: in the Sternwarte Königs-leiten observatory, the romantic spectacle of

the sky is underpinned with music. The obser-

vatory also features a planetarium where visitors

have the chance to see over 7,000 stars.

www.sternwarte-koenigsleiten.com

The Roman town of Aguntum is the only one

in modern-day Tirol. One impressive feature of

the excavations there is the baths complex and

the atrium house. The site’s museum is also

worth a visit; it explains about the Roman period

in the Alps, and displays finds such as clothing,

ceramics and coins. www.agentum.com

1 // The Grossglockner High Alpine Road A magnificent panorama on Austria's highest

mountain, the Grossglockner.

2 // Sepp Haslinger, gold-pannerThe former state champion panning for gold in

Rauris, using a flat iron pan.


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ATTRACT IONS IN THE REGION

Ancient Alpine villages, grandiose panoramas, waterfalls, and much more: secret tips from the Hohe Tauern National Park.

Up and away: the Grossglockner cable-cars are the comfortable way to be transported to a fascinating high Alpine landscape. As you ride, a panoramic view of Austria’s highest mountain and over 50 additional 3,000-metre peaks opens up. A steep delight is guaranteed by the Reis-seck funicular railway, carrying passengers over inclines of up to 82%. It runs to a mountain restaurant, where visitors can take refreshment after this dizzying tour. Pure nostalgia is the promise of the Panoramabahn Kreuzeck, which dates from 1956. Passing the Rosswiese reservoir, the visitor is free to explore a particu-larly impressive area of walks in the Kreuzeck range of mountains.

How does life come about? And how can it exist in the high mountains? The BIOS National Park Centre Mallnitz investigates its diverse forms and incarnations in various exhibitions. In the National Park Worlds Mittersill, visitors can take a sensory walk through the protected mountain region. At eight adventure stations, visitors are guided through the world of the Alps, past the Grossglockner, the glaciers and waterfalls.

Adventure-lovers can tackle a thrilling canyon-ing or rafting tour on the Isel or Möll rivers. Thundering wild water, steeply-rising rock walls and remote gorges make this trip a spectacular nerve-jangler. And a worry-free one: experienced guides are on hand to keep you safe on the water.

Adrenalin combined with a panoramic view: the Osttirodler is a spectacular Alpine coaster. Taking in countless steep curves, this toboggan run takes you straight down to the valley floor from the Lienz ski area of Hochstein.

Fun Alpin is the name of another summer toboggan run in the region. It starts alongside Wildpark Assling and runs beside the grazing stags and deer.

In Flattach in Carinthia, you will find one of the most impressive natural gorges in the Alps, the Raggaschlucht. The Raggabach forces its way between steep walls of rock, while visitors observe the drama and pass through it on dizzy-ingly-high walkways. Another action paradise is the water adventure park at Galitzenklamm, with a variety of offers to suit the whole family which range from challenging climbing routes to a ‘water spectacular’ trail.

Anyone looking for a spot of relaxation after the demanding ascent to the Kitzsteinhorn will find it, in an area of fully 20,000 m². Located right at the heart of the National Park area, the Spa Zell am See – Kaprun invites visitors to relax in the most magnificent of styles.The region has a number of such offers of rest and regeneration, including at the Alpentherme Gastein.

The Hollersbacher Kräutergarten is a little paradise for gourmets. This journey of discovery leads visitors through a berry-picking maze and past stars and moons of herbs, in a display of over 500 different species and varieties of plant.

In Lienz, the impressive capital of East Tirol, the visitor can stroll and wander through medieval streets. Or experience pure culture at Schloss Bruck: the castle houses the extensive town museum and the Albin Egger Lienz gallery. High above the ‘sunshine town’, as Lienz is often called, perches the former seat of the Counts of Görz.

The clocks in St. Jakob in Defereggental tick traditionally. Each year in June, seas of flowering Alpine roses colour the area around the Obersee

on the Staller Sattel in stunning shades of every kind of red. This spectacle of nature is celebrated with an exhilarating Alpine Rose Festival. Dancing and music, folk groups, traditional Schu-hplattler dances, a craft village and a colourful programme of children’s events are all part of the fun.The mountain village of Heiligenblut is modest – and yet imposing: it lies at the foot of a giant – the Grossglockner rises up majestically over it, fully 3,798 metres at its peak.

Mountain-lovers can also climb this rock giant, setting out from Heiligenblut; the Grossglock-ner High Alpine Trail also starts here. This most famous of the high Alpine trails leads off on a climb in elevation of 2,504 metres, with 36 sharp bends and covering a length of 48 km right in the heart of the National Park. The panora-ma is incomparable: with Grossglockner and the Pasterze glacier in view, the walker passes through verdant Alpine meadows, gleaming for-ests, eternal ice and a majestic mountain world.

The Krimml Waterfalls are amongst the most-visited sights in Austria. And with good reason: with a 380m drop, they are the highest in Europe, and the fifth-highest in the world.

Searching for treasure? Then a visit to Rauris in Salzburg province is well worth it. Not for nothing is this village known as the “Dorf der Geier und Goldsucher” – the village of vultures and gold-panners: in the past, it was the biggest gold-mine in Europe – and the highest gold-mine in the world, to boot! The golden days are over, although amateur enthusiasts can still pan for gold in the Rauriser Ache and find small traces of this valuable metal. The prospects are sparkling: you can take the treasure you find home with you at the end of the day.

Jewels of nature in the National Park


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Flowing with the Danube

You have to concede one point about the people in Upper Austria: they are warm-hearted people – and they don’t hide their pride in who they are. “That Johann Strauss certainly knew what he was composing there,” the landlord says to us. One hundred and fifty years ago, the said Johann Strauss composed the waltz. But the original title of the piece was “An der schönen blauen Donau” (“On the beautiful blue Danube”). Many say that it is the unofficial anthem of the country.

And for the people of Upper Austria, it serves to sing the sweetest of praises in honour of “their” Danube. Rightly so? That’s something we were going to find out – and with a mode of travel that is ideally suited to a river landscape: the bike. And we are not disappointed – on the contrary.

The Danube is not blue everywhere, but it is beautiful. Along with the countryside around it, which is gently hilly, with natural forests. Somehow, you get the feeling that you are being propelled along rather than pedalling. Maybe it’s just a trick of the powerful flowing river that is travelling by alongside us head-ing in our direction, and which transports us with it in our mind’s eye. Be that as it may, after four or five kilometres the most wonderful feeling overcomes us. Our movements have long become instinctive, and we no longer need to think about it. So we are free to take in everything else that much more intensively. The splashing of the river, the chirruping sounds of the crickets, the scents – and the many treasures found en route. The small villages with their narrow alleys and romantic old towns, Grein, Maria Taferl. The many ruins, projecting high up from out of the trees. And then a wonder of nature: the Schlögener Schlinge. It’s where the Danube turns in a 180-degree loop. We climb a short way up, to view it from above. We are rewarded with an incomparable spectacle of nature in the evening sun, played out right in front of us. The quotation that is engraved here is absolutely fitting: “Wenn du den Blick zur Donau senkst, dabei an etwas Liebes denkst, kurz, still verharrst wie im Gebet, ein Wunsch dir in Erfüllung geht.” (“As your gaze lowers to the Danube, think of something special, and silently as if in prayer, a wish feels like it‘s been fulfilled”) At that moment, you really don’t have to wish for anything else.

The next day, and we are off again. Once again, the force of the river’s flow carries us with it. And then we reach it – the Wachau, a World Heritage Site. A dreamlike riverscape, sprinkled with apricot trees, radiant in their glistening white blossom and giving off such a powerful fragrance. On one side of the Danube the forests rise up, and on the other the vineyards. Although vineyards is not really the right term. These are wine-growing terraces carved into the rock, their graphic lines winding their way over the countryside on these steep slopes. Everywhere, or so it seems, is about apricots and wine. In the picturesque, medieval villages there are small, idyllic shops selling apricot products, and ancient Heu-rigen (wine-growers’ restaurants). If there really were an “Island of the Blessed”, then it would be here. Somehow, we get the impression that the people here have no worries. And certainly not the wine-maker in the Heuriger in Dürnstein. “Up there, we do everything by hand – you can’t get a tractor up there; and that’s what makes the wine so unique,” he says, gesturing in the direction of the slopes of his vineyard.

The wine-makers here are absolutely the most eloquent chroniclers of their wines – and of their homeland. That’s something we really appreciate now. After all, we were just intending to stop off for a short while, but we’ve been sitting here for over two hours now. We are delighting in the full-bodied Grüner Veltliner wine, looking up at the impressive blue church tower, and down to the Danube, which rolls by unstoppably. That Herr Strauss was right. Even if the Danube is not always blue.

THE DANUBE VALLEY

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325 km cycle pathThe most popular section of the entire 2,800

km Danube Cycle Path running from Germany

to the river mouth in the Black Sea is the very

well-developed and easily-ridden route through

Austria, from Passau to Vienna.

www.donauradweg.at

The Welterbesteig in the WachauThe Wachau region can also be discovered on

foot. The 180 km of the Welterbesteig (‘World

Heritage ascent’) is covered in 14 stages that

take walkers through impressive countryside and

wine-making villages. www.wachau.com

On the trail of EmperorsAlong the Route of the Kings and Emperors, the

visitor passes countless cultural treasures that

the former regents of Europe have left behind

them. From Regensburg to Budapest, via Linz

and Vienna. strassederkaiserundkoenige.com.

1 // The Schlögener SchlingeCycling past the Schlögener Schlinge – a natural

wonder of the Danube in Upper Austria.

A cycle tour along the Danube – it’s like a journey back in time. Until eventually you reach the vineyards of the Wachau region.


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THE DANUBE VALLEY

Linz A city as an expression of openness to new things, colourful living and as a place of encounters. In earlier times, Linz was known as a “grey” industrial city, but today it is an innovative city of art and culture. And a meeting-point at the heart of Europe – in many respects. Firstly, because Linz has always been an attraction, as a city on the Danube and lying on the most important trade route across Europe. And then because its modern, contemporary buildings such as the Ars Electronica Center, the Lentos Art Museum or the new opera house exist in an inspired symbiosis with the city’s architectural heritage. In short: Linz is a city that pulses. www.linz.at/Tourismus

The Schlögener Schlinge The Schlögener Schlinge is where the Danube turns through 180 degrees, in a tight loop. This loop in the river is not only officially a “natural wonder of Austria”. If you stand at the viewpoint and look down on the unique spectacle of nature, your breath is mo-mentarily taken away. There really is something magical about it. www.oberoesterreich.at

Grein – the place where the mighty Danube combines with the ancient, gentle landscape of the hills. It’s one of the most idyllic places on the Danube, and has an interesting cultural history to offer. That’s courtesy of the Schloss Greinburg, which has presided over the town for 500 years. Or the shipping museum. Here you can discover why shipping was the most important source of income until 100 years ago, and how the town flourished as a result. In fact, it was the reason why the people of Grein could afford to build the castle at all. www.grein.info

Maria Taferl This major pilgrimage site really does have a sense of the mystical about it. And not simply on account of the 17th-century legend. The legend has it that a badly injured herdsman

was instantly healed when the sign of the cross was placed upon him, and a local judge was cured of his deep depression. Whether true or not, the village with its pilgrimage basilica is still sought out today, high above the Danube valley. And affording a magnificent panoramic view over the entire chain of the Alps. www.mariataferl.at

Melk It is a drama. As the morning sun illuminates the Benedictine monastery of Stift Melk, the effect is that of a colossal and wonderful monument being brought to life. Stift Melk is the biggest preserved Baroque building in Austria. And it is the emblem of the Wachau region, which has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2000. One of the most astonishing natural landscapes in the world lies beneath your feet here. The steep and terraced vineyards are a distinctive feature of the landscape. In some places, they can only be maintained by the wine-growers by hand, due to the incline of the slope. During the Wachau Marillen-Frühling (literally, ‘Apricot Spring‘), the apricot trees blossom in a brilliant white along the Danube, giving off a wonderful scent. www.stiftmelk.at

Ruine Aggstein The Ruine Aggstein is situated on a steep rocky outcrop above the Danube. It is one of the most famous knights’ castles in Austria. A mystical adventure, with hidden stairs and towers, a dungeon, a knights’ hall and a chapel. Not only is the view back into the Middle Ages legendary, but so is the view down into the Danube valley and to the Dunkelsteiner Wald. www.ruineaggstein.at

Dürnstein embodies the charm of the Wachau: a small medieval town directly alongside the Danube, nestled down in the steep slopes of the Wachau vineyards. With narrow streets and a wonderful collegiate church with its distinctive blue-white tower. Presided over by the Ruine

Dürnstein, where the English King Richard the Lionheart was held prisoner. The ruin is freely accessible today. www.duernstein.at

Krems When you come from the Wachau to Krems, you sense it: this is a place of contrasts. It is also a place where eccentric artists are at work. It starts immediately at the new Danube landing stage of Krems-Stein, also called the “Gateway to the Wachau”. The landing stage is accordingly designed as an oversized metal gateway. Not far from this, the art gallery combines modernity and tradition: a site that accommodated a large tobacco factory in the 19th century is today exhibiting contemporary art. The Museum of Caricatures just opposite is similarly modern in style. These contemporary architecture projects lend special effect to the many historical buildings. The Steinertor gate marks the entrance to the town’s heritage of architecture, most notably the Dominican church and the fortified mansion of the Gozzoburg on the Hoher Markt. The Gozzoburg is one of the most important medieval town centre buildings in Austria. www.krems.info

Stift Klosterneuburg At the Stift Klosterneuburg, the visitor simply has to dismount and go inside. The view alone of this stunning building is a true gift: a mix of medieval and Baroque architecture styles, nestling against the vineyard-covered slopes of Klosterneuburg. Behind the walls hides one of the most valuable treasures in the country: the Verdun Altar, erected by Nicholas of Verdun in 1181, is one of the largest preserved Romanesque gold work artefacts. The invitation to partake of a glass of wine is also easy to accept. It turns out that the Stift Klosterneuburg owns the oldest vineyard in Austria. And with vines planted over an area of 108 hectares, it is also amongst the largest in the country. www.stift-klosterneuburg.at

The treasures of the Danube valley

1 // Linz The capital city of Upper Austria has evolved into a pulsating city of art and culture.

2 // The original The “Linzer Torte” is considered to be the oldest known tart in the world, and was already recorded by name for the first time in 1653.

3 // The Danube Cycling Route Biking along splendid natural landscapes and cultural treasures.

4 // Stift Melk The Baroque building is the emblem of the Wachau region and is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites.


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Bruckner Festival The world-famous composer Anton Bruckner found the inspiration for his symphonies in Linz. At the Bruckner Festival in September, the grand master of the symphony is again brought to life, at least musically. A sensational auditory experience in Linz, the city of Bruckner. www.brucknerfest.at

ARS Electronica Festival The ARS Electronica Festival is one of the most important festivals for media art worldwide. It makes Linz an interface for art, digital tech-nology and society, More than 200 individual events work with great creativity, idealism and a high degree of specialist knowledge towards shaping an alternative future. www.aec.at/festival

Exhibitions in Burg SchallaburgThe Renaissance castle is an architectural highlight – and a cultural one: every year, it houses major exhibitions. Its special exhibitions on historical events are particularly impressive. In 2015, the Schallaburg is presenting an extensive exhibition on the Vikings. www.schallaburg.at

Barocktage Melk The Baroque Days in Melk mean leading international ensembles performing in a World Heritage setting. “A festival for the eyes and a dream for the ears,” the organisers write. And that’s spot-on. The settings for these artistic offerings are the stunning Melk collegiate church, the garden pavilion and the nearby Schloss Pielach. www.barocktagemelk.at

The Marillenkirtag in the WachauThe Marille, or apricot, is the culinary emblem of the Wachau. And it is a synonym for the culture of living. In summer, they celebrate the apricot, at the legendary Marillenkirtage. A festival mood fills the air in the small, medieval towns, as the locals show their visitors the specialities they prepare using these Wachau apricots: Marillenknödel (apricot dumplings), jam, schnapps, cakes. There is folk dancing and singing – and, naturally, Wachau wine to drink. As a visitor, it’s then that you understand what the expression “Wachauer Lebensfreude” (“Wachau joie de vivre“) is all about.

Donaufestival in Krems At its Festival of the Danube, Krems comes up with any number of surprises. The town entertains with an exciting mix of exotic dance, theatre and cutting-edge music. It’s anything but mainstream. The organisers are especially on the lookout for the (as yet) unknown, with a wealth of self-created works that can only be experienced here. But the programme always features major international stars too. For instance, Rufus Wainwright launched one of his albums in Krems, the Melvins performed a much celebrated show, Peaches brought their techno-punk here in 2010, and in 2011 John Cale was a visiting artist. www.donaufestival.at

“Glatt und Verkehrt” in Krems“Glatt & Verkehrt” is one of the most pleasant music festivals in the country, with performers from all over the world who engage in original, humorous and surprising ways with their own musical roots. The outcome of this is original and traditional styles of music, mixed with contemporary currents – and with the broad

diversity of music from all over the world. The performance venues for the festival are local Heurige (wine-growers’ restaurants) in the Wachau, the Schloss zu Spitz an der Donau, the Minoritenkirche in Krems and the Stift Göttweig. Inspiring venues with inspiring music. It’s the stuff of life. www.glattundverkehrt.at

Grafenegg FestivalA summer’s day in Grafenegg could look like this: a visit to the castle, followed by a walk through the English country garden. Carrying the picnic basket that has been put together with your own favourites in the picnic pavilion. A shaded spot under one of the centuries-old trees on the castle lawns. And then your senses are free to take in an open-air concert in the sculptural “Wolkenturm” or in the auditorium, during the Grafenegg Classical Festival. In the evening, you can also treat yourself to a glass of Kamptal wine in the castle tavern. www.grafenegg.com

Archäologischer Park Carnuntum A visit to the Carnuntum Archaeological Park is like a journey back in time to the 4th century AD. In ancient times, the Roman camp of Carnuntum was part of the province of Pannonia. Today, the main types of architecture in a Roman town district have been reconstructed: a town house, a villa and a public baths. These reconstructions are no imaginary buildings or museum pieces. They are houses that can be lived in, fitted out with a Roman underfloor heating system (hypocaust) and a kitchen with functioning ovens. www.carnuntum.co.at

THE DANUBE VALLEY

The Danube, a source of culture

1 // Culture on the Danube The Wolkenturm in the Grafenegg Castle gardens as a concert venue.

2 // The Cloud of Sound in Linz, a spectacular event between Ars Electronica Festival and Bruckner Festival.


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1 // CARINTH IA

What drives someone to dive into the flowing waters of a mountain lake at night? The fascination of an untouched, mystical world full of magic images.

The last of the sun’s rays bathe the meadows and forests around the Weissensee in a warm light as we get into our diving suits. Not a sound is to be heard, apart from the chirping of the crickets – the eternal soundtrack to summer nights. The cloudless sky promises a clear, starry night, and my heart races that bit faster. After all, it means that the nearly-full moon will accompany us with its play of light as we go night diving. Even so, we still need an underwater lamp to explore

the fascinating world of the Weissensee at night, particularly for the deeper reaches. Even if it might sound paradoxical, the special attraction of night diving lies precisely in this limited field of vision. You only see the things that pop up in the circle formed by the lamp – but you experience them all the more intensively. Particularly as the colours of the animals and plants, illuminated by the light from just a short distance, seem stronger.

Now, just a check on the equipment – compressed air, diving compass, depth meter, lead belt – and good to go. We dive into the glass-clear water for which the Weissensee is renowned far beyond Austria. After only a few metres, I perceive a silhouette out of the corner of my eye. A pike is lurking elegantly between the stems of the reeds, probably seeking out its prey. It won’t be the only resident of these waters that we spot: many nocturnal predators are now out hunting, and because they rarely exhibit a flight response they make particularly good viewing.

Seemingly weightless, we drift through this secretive, silent world. We are already approaching our target: the beautiful field of water lilies in front of the lakeside pool – an almost surreal underwater garden that also provides concealment for many small fish. The sunken forest that we had explored the previous day had also been fascinating to see. The old trees that have fallen into the water over the course of time now offer the ideal environment for roach and carp. The special thing about the Weissensee is not just its unspoilt world of plants and animals, but also its crystal-clear water, enabling divers to see up to 15 metres during the day. Thanks to its emerald-green water, many people refer to the lake as the “Caribbean of the Alps” – an impression that is boosted by the fact that around two-thirds of the lake’s shores have no buildings.

Wow – what was that? Suddenly a crab looms up in the circle of light. A brief second of fright, and it disappears with astonishing agility behind a stone, to hide itself away from our curious gaze. It’s incredible how alive the Weissensee is at night. A lake trout swims past, and a young perch hidden in the reeds is eyeing us up from a safe distance. But time is once again far too short: we already need to head back. As we surface, thousands of stars are glittering in the sky – and simultaneously on the surface of the water, where they are reflected. Later, over a cool beer, we will be bursting to share our impressions with one another. But now, in the silence of this summer night, we climb quietly out of the water. As if we might preserve the magic of the underwater world just that little bit longer by doing so.

Diving into the land of the lakes

Bathing water of drinkable qualityAll of Carinthia’s bathing lakes have water that is

of drinking water quality. And if you like the water

comfortingly warm when you swim, the Klopainer

See is the warmest inland lake in Europe.

The renaissance of the bathing house

These buildings first flourished in the 19th century,

and today the classic bathing houses are being

rediscovered right across Carinthia. The first

Carinthian bathing house in Millstatt and the

renovated Werzer’s Badehaus on the Wörthersee

are especially recommended especially

recommended viewing.

From bathing jetty to concert hallFestivals such as the Wörther See Classics,

the Carinthischer Sommer or the Internationale

Musikwochen Millstatt offer the perfect cultural

supplement to your bathing fun.

1 // WörtherseeThe Wörthersee in Carinthia is a spectacle of

nature in itself, including its many architectura l

highlights.

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STYR IA

It’s one of those stunning autumn days where the air seems glass-clear and the colourful crowns of the trees are sparkling in the gentle sunlight. Grandma Grain is sitting on a stool in the fields, in her indestructible kitchen apron, cleaning pumpkins. She does it every year, and has been doing it for so many years she can no longer recall when she first did it. It’s true that only a small volume of the pro-duce is cleaned by hand these days, but the ritual is simply a part of the autumn – just like the shiny

chestnuts lying amongst the leaves. You could be excused for thinking that the main purpose was to get at the flesh of the pumpkin, but the precise opposite is true: it’s the seeds that are the real treasure in this fruit, because – gathered in their thousands, milled, kneaded, roasted and pressed – they supply the delicious pumpkin seed oil.

It’s an oil with character. And, like the Grain family, there are many “seed oil farmers” here in the region, where you can sample and purchase this “green gold” direct. Trying it for the first time, you are likely to be surprised. The fine nutty flavour is so intense, and the dark green colour so unusual. This oil has character, no question – and it will secure a firm place in the hearts and pantries of all gourmets, at the latest with your second sampling, perhaps as a dip with a piece of crisp bread or a dressing for a delicately flavoursome endive salad. It’s also a purely natural product, and one whose high content of vitamins, minerals and unsaturated fatty acids make it a winner on the nutrition front. The prestige surrounding pumpkin seed oil has really taken off: for example, a farmer in the Murtal valley was not allowed to call his seed oil “Styrian”, purely because it did not originate from a traditional pumpkin-growing area.

And then there’s Styrian wine. Back to the Bauernhof Grain, where the magnificent smell of roasted chestnuts is gradually filling the air. The nuts are roasted in the open yard, over the embers; in just the same way as the freshly-harvested “Woazn” – that being the local name for the corn cobs that taste so wonderful with butter and salt. To accompany this, as always at this time of year, a glass of “Sturm” – the fruity, cloudy, young wine following the first fermentation, which is so well-matched to the flavour of the chestnuts. Where the “Sturm” is a transitional product between the fresh-pressed juice and wine, the latter has long enjoyed international recognition. After pumpkin seed oil, Styrian wine is the region’s second-biggest sales and export performer. And you can find a number of wineries immediately in the area. And once you have tasted the outstanding Weissburgunder or Welschriesling directly from the neighbouring wine-maker, you won’t want to be leaving any time soon. Then again, that could be down to the welcome extended by the people in Styria. For instance, as you learn a few of the stories about the region whilst sitting out in the sun and sipping with pleasure at your wine – this time a full-bodied Chardonnay. You’ve already decided that this certainly won’t be your last visit to the ‘land of the pumpkin seed’. And, by the same token, you’ve decided to take a couple of bottles of the “green gold” on your journey home.

Pithy, authentic, StyrianPumpkin seed oil from Styria has character – just like the people who make it. And the best way to convince yourself of that is directly on the farm.

Wine walkingThe mild climate of southern Styria not only

allows fruit and vines to thrive – it’s also a great

invitation to extended wine walks. With plenty of

inviting opportunities for stop-offs en route.

The Styrian Oil Trail

Devoted entirely to Styrian pumpkin seed oil,

classic pumpkin dishes are served up along the

trail from Stainz to Eibiswald, such as “trout

poached in seed oil”. They are provided by an

association of 14 “oil trail farmers” and 20

“oil trail innkeepers”. Tip for your trip: take the

bike, the “Flascherlzug” train or old-time tractor

instead of the car. www.oelspur.at

Classics with and without seed oilA must to sample: runner bean salad and

marinated beef with pumpkin oil. And similarly

typical regional dishes: Breinwurst sausage,

buckwheat mash (Heidensterz) and crispy roast

chicken (Backhendl).

1 // Pumpkins as cultural heritageThe pumpkin seeds, stripped of the surrounding

flesh, are also a delicious snack food.

2 // Styrian wineAn idyllic vineyard landscape in sunny southern

Styria, near Gamlitz.


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H IGHL IGHTS IN STYR IA

1 // The Gesäuse National ParkA relaxed stop in an unspoilt natural paradise: the Mödlinger Hütte.

2 // Architecture in GrazThe Kunsthaus is a symbol for the bold architecture of this city of the avantgarde.

Welcome to a land of pleasures!If you’ve already visited, you know: Styrian people are simply lovers of the fine things in life. But that alone is not enough to explain the astonishing variety of delicious dishes that are conjured onto the region’s tables across the province. The di-verse range of types of farm in the province, from grassy Alpine lands to the vineyards, guarantees a particularly colourful menu. So if you really want to get to know Styria, the best advice is to go on a culinary tour of the province, planning in enough time for the occasional cultural stop-off. After all, the “green province” is richly blessed with such attractions too.

Dining delights in the Ausseer LandFirst, you can appreciate the flair of the Imperial age by visiting the historic Imperial villas, and af-terwards treat yourself to a crispy fried lake charr. Valued for its delicate, light pink flesh, the tasty charr is also often served smoked over beechwood – true poetry. For dessert, how about visiting the neighbouring Upper Austrian town of Bad Ischl: the legendary “Zaunerstollen” from the cake-maker’s of the same name is still one of the shop’s most popular specialities today. And if that whets your appetite, visitors to the Konditorei Zauner can choose from the biggest cake buffet in Austria.

The world’s biggest monastery libraryThe collected knowledge of the respective period over many centuries, gathered together and archived. Described in the 19th century as the “eighth wonder of the world”, the library still has the capacity to amaze today: 7 domed vaults and 70,000 books over a run of 70 metres – the di-mensions alone are impressive. If you then cross the fine marbled floor through these 13-metre high rooms and allow your gaze to wander over these venerable writings and the ceiling frescos by Bartolomeo Altomonte, you are gripped by a deep respect for the artistic and architectural masterpieces of which people were capable back in those times.

Wildly romantic: the Gesäuse regionThis wildly romantic valley owes its name to the powerful and thunderous rushing with which the river Enns plunges over the rocks and down into the valley. Ranging above are the peaks of the Ennstal Alps, surrounded by the dense forests which explain why Styria is sometimes called the “green province”: around 60% of the province is forested. In this breathtaking countryside, preserved in its original form as the “Gesäuse National Park”, it is not only man who can find a place of recovery from the noise and hectic pace of daily life. Deer and other animals enjoy a natural environment in which to live and hide. At heights ranging from 700 to 1,600 metres, the deer graze on fresh herbs and grasses, which has an outstanding effect on the quality of the venison meat. Little wonder, then, that in the restaurants and inns, and also in the region’s delicatessens, the visitor will come across any number of excellent specialities using game. For instance, what would you say to a tender ragout of venison before continu-ing on towards Mariazell? But if your schedule doesn’t permit such an extended stop, you can simply take a couple of venison sausages to eat on the way!

Pilgrimage and Bürgeralm: MariazellIf you prefer to look for an alternative to the busy activity around the Mariazell Basilica, one of the most important places of pilgrimage in Europe, the best advice is to take the cable-car up to the Mariazell Bürgeralpe. Here, at a height of 1,300 metres above sea level, the “Maria-zeller Bergwelle” entrances visitors in summer: it is a triumphant mix of mountain panorama, light and laser technology, fountains and live music. While a variety of artists and music groups perform on the stage set in the lake, water fountains up to 40 metres high play in time to the music.

The world’s first mountain railwayFor railway enthusiasts, a detour to the nearby Semmeringbahn is an absolute must: it began to operate in 1854, and the first mountain railway in history carried passengers on the route from Gloggnitz to Mürzzuschlag and back – a route that in those days was brave in the extreme, given the wealth of gorges and bends to be overcome. In 1998, the Semmeringbahn wasdeclared as a UNESCO World Heritage Site,and even today this part section of the rail route from Vienna to Italy is an adventure in itself.

Almenland Nature ParkYou can imagine yourself in a fairytale as you drive past the verdant green meadows and dark forests and suddenly see the dark blue of the Teichalmsee in front of you, nestling in an exten-sive upland plateau. If you are hungry by now, you might possibly be more interested in what you can see standing and lying around in the Alpine meadows in large numbers: around 4,000 Alpine oxen graze on the lakeside meadows, under open skies, thriving on the juicy grasses, flavour-some herbs and clear spring water. Through to the herding home in autumn, the oxen are left to move undisturbed and freely in the fresh mountain air. These pleasant living conditions also indirectly benefit the visitor – a pink Alpine ox steak melts like butter in the mouth.

‘The pleasure capital of…’A designation like this has to be earned, although for Graz it’s a simple matter: around 800 city farmers supply the lovable city on the Mur river daily with high-quality, fresh produce from their own farms – and the chefs in the inns and res-taurants know how to prepare them to best effect. In addition, Graz is one of a total of 10 cities des-ignated by UNESCO as “Cities of Design”, serving up an exceptional cultural offering: festivals such as ‘Styriarte Graz’ and the ‘Steirische Herbst’ attract thousands of visitors every year, as do the


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Austrian sculpture park, the Joanneum universal museum, and the gallery of modern art. Schloss Eggenberg castle and the historic town centre are UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

The Graz KrauthäuptelThe area around Graz is particularly well-suited to the growing of salad crops. The most well-known of these is the Graz Krauthäuptel, found throughout the season at every Graz farmers’ market. It is particularly liked for its crisply tender, slightly sweet flavour with no bitter aftertaste. Tip: marinate with Styrian pumpkin seed oil and apple vinegar – or simply order it in one of the many good restaurants in the city!

Horror and pleasure: Eastern StyriaNo less than three exhibitions in the Riegersburg take visitors on a multimedia journey to the times of the Ottoman Wars and witch-burnings, but also to the Baroque love of life. This castle, once the strongest bastion of Christianity, may offer horror in its history, but it offers pleasure in exploring its environs – whether that is on a tasting tour of the Zotter chocolate factory, or visiting the “Vulcano Ursprung” ham-making factory. Another tasting tip: Mangalitza bacon and ham – preferably with freshly-grated Styrian horseradish.

The Southern Styrian Wine RouteEven if the term “Steirische Toskana” (the “Tuscany of Styria”) is far too frequently used, when you see the gentle hills of the vineyards and cypresses here in the south of the province, this comparison completely grows on you. But it’s a different mat-ter altogether when it comes to the specialities of the region. Ideally ordered in a winery restaurant, try a runner bean salad with pumpkin seed oil and a glass of Styrian wine, such as a Weissburgun-der or a Sauvignon Blanc. And if that whets your appetite, you can go on to order a richly garnished “Brettljause” with fresh speciality hams and sausage from local producers.


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V IENNA

From charming designer shops to colourful markets: Imperial Vienna is an exciting metropolis, with many surprisesWhen we first take a stroll beside the Danube Canal, we can easily imagine ourselves in the middle of Berlin. Vibrant graffiti graces the stone walls, and popular bars and beach clubs line up along the banks of this offshoot of the Danube. It’s an area for pleasure-seekers, for joggers, cyclists, sun-lovers. And people who love the view out over the gently-flowing water. What impresses us is this magnificent symbiosis of the modern and the historical. The colourful street art competes with world-famous Jugendstil architecture, as you come across several buildings designed by Otto Wagner as you take this walk. The buildings of the stations at Friedensbrücke and Rossauer Lände, for example. Or the Schützenhaus that Wagner first designed to regulate the Danube Canal. These days, it houses a restaurant with the same name, specialising in traditional cuisine.

Our next stop is the MuseumsQuartier. Within the walls of former Imperial stables, one of the biggest areas given over to art in the world houses around 60 cultural establishments. These include highly prestigious institutions such as the Kunsthalle, the Leopold Museum, and mumok (Museum Moderner Kunst Stiftung Ludwig). The Baroque elements of the buildings mix with more recent architecture, and the vibrant cultural life is reflected in a highly diverse offering. Right in the centre, a generous courtyard opens up, with the feel of an urban living-room. It’s filled with young and old alike, as they chat, read and relax on the innovative seating.

Only a few metres further, in the narrow lanes around the major shopping mile that is the Mariahilfer Strasse, young designer stores are springing up. We definitely have the feeling that this is Vienna’s creative quarter. And a look through the small display windows proves us right: there are plenty of individual one-off pieces here, and it’s definitely not mainstream stuff – whether fashion, accessories or design. As an example, take Am Spittelberg, where delightful fashion boutiques are hidden amongst romantic Biedermeier houses. Some of the designers who have located there now enjoy an international reputation. Foremost amongst them Lena Hoschek, whose retro style is inspiring stars like Katy Perry. Or Susanne Bisovsky, who mixes haute couture with folklore elements.

The fashionable Viennese spirit is also tangible in the city’s colourful markets. For instance, the famous Naschmarkt, which is an all-round experience with its many bars, stalls and Saturday flea-market. There, we stroll past Oriental cultures, sample the wide range of foods on offer, and then settle down for a relaxed afternoon break only to quickly discover that there are even more secret tips to explore. The Karmelitermarkt in Vienna’s second district is abundant with hip flair. As is the up-and-coming Meidlinger Markt, or the freshly-renovated Vorgartenmarkt. They all show off the sweet sides of life: easy, uncomplicated, and full of enjoyment.

Just the way we like things.

Vienna, Imperial, imperious, dynamic

1 // Urban living-roomPeople of every culture and all ages meet in the

inner courtyard of the MuseumsQuartier

Things to know about Hip Vienna

7tm is an association of a number of small

shops. Together, they organise tours of their

shops and offer insights into the latest scene in

Vienna. www.7tm.at

Blickfang is the title of a European design trade

fair for furniture, fashion and jewellery, which

is staged annually in Vienna as well as in cities

such as Copenhagen and Hamburg. The MAK is

a venue for exhibiting domestic and international

talents. www.bklickfang.com

The MuseumsQuartier is also a diverse perfor-

mance space, for instance during the o-töne

literature festival. On Thursdays throughout the

summer, Austrian authors give free open-air

readings from their works. www.o-toene.at

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Taking the pulse of ViennaFrom Strauss to Haydn: Vienna is a city of famous com-posers. And the current music scene is similarly vibrant.There are no slaves to the rhythm at the Vienna Blues Spring: since 2005, the festival has covered the city with a wealth of blues concerts. For more than six weeks, you can enjoy hearing performances by international and Austrian acts. These include giants of the scene like Charlie Musselwhite, Kim Wilson and Eddie “The Chief” Clearwater. The main performance venue is the Veranstaltungszentrum Reigen, which staged its first jazz concerts during the 1950s. www.viennabluesspring.org

If you really want to immerse yourself in the Austrian music scene, you should not miss Popfest. There are no admission charges, and it shows off the range of domestic talent to great effect. Many of the concerts are in the open, under the stars: there are open-air performances on the lakeside stage in front of the Karlskirche, which is then illuminated impressively with artistic visuals. This multi-day event is atmospheric and vibrant, and also plays in neighbouring localities: for instance, brut at the Künstler-haus, or at the University of Applied Sciences (Technische Universität). www.popfest.at

A visit to the Accordion Festival is similarly guaranteed to be good. Not just for fans of this adapt-able instrument, but for everyone interested in becoming one: the accordion, in all its diverse artistic facets, is the focus of attention for a whole month. The event has been steadily growing since 2000, to become an event of international standing where famous sound artists alternate with newcomers, concerts with workshops and dance. Performances are given in around 20 venues. www.akkordeon-festival.at

And one of the internationally-important Vienna festivals is given over entirely to dance: ImPulsTanz. Something that started small has now become the biggest European event for contemporary dance. Globally-famous choreographers and dancers, from Wim Vandekeybus to Jerome Bel to Marie Chouinard, delight Vienna for five weeks with contemporary dance. And everyone is welcome to join in: there are numerous workshops, often led by well-known personalities in the dance world, who invite participants to learn and discover. www.impulstanz.com

High above the rooftops, the pulse of the city beats particularly fast. That’s also true in Le Loft restau-rant, on Level 18 in the Sofitel building and with impressive views over Vienna. From the Stephansdom over the hilly vineyard areas to the adjoining Danube Canal, in a fascinating backdrop. In the restaurant, cuisine inspired by the Alsace region is served in a bright ambience, enclosed in all-round glazing. Le Loft, incidentally, can be spotted from far away: thanks to an impressive, self-reflecting light ceiling by media artist Pipilotti Rist.

Relaxed flair set in airy heights is radiated at the Dachboden im 25hours Hotel. With bright-ly-coloured furniture and relaxed seating, the venue creates an informal atmosphere somewhere between a living-room and an entertaining variety circus. Should you choose, you can take your drink outside onto a wonderful terrace, from where you can see the parliament building, and in good weather even as far as the Korneuburg vineyards. Guest DJs spin here regularly, and transform the relaxed post-work hot-spot into a dance floor. www.25hours-hotels.com


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V I ENNA

The young hang-outs around the city are best discovered on a walk. For instance, you might enjoy the walk through the short Theobaldgasse (6th district), where within a few hundred metres you will find several innovative businesses and projects. The We Bandits store, for instance, offering own creations and fashionable finds from Scandinavia or Asia. Next, there is the anzüglich label with its fairly-manufactured eco-fashion. A few houses further on, the special eco-store Feinkoch can be found, offering its pre-weighed ingredients (plus recipe) for fast cooking pleasure. And also in this short street: the Espresso-Bar Akrap, with coffee that is roasted in-house, the Tongues concept store, Club Mon Ami, and African specialist Habari. And if you are looking for even more Austrian design, you can stroll on into the neighbouring Gumpendorfer Strasse. Individual collections are available from Anukoo and the neighbouring store, Schönes und Tragbares.

Even more young fashion is available a short hop away, around the Lindengasse and Neubaugasse in the 7th district. Lovers of bags will love Ina Kent, while lila spoils anyone looking for a mix of sophisticated cool and a transformable look. Art Point is the place for avant-garde fashion, and Elke Freytag offers cool dresses. This tour also takes in Scandinavian-inspired stores, from finnshop to Fjordlys to designqvist. This area also has numerous second-hand boutiques that invite visitors to stop and browse.

The Palmenhaus is impressive in summer and winter alike. The beautiful steel construction of the palm-house was erected in 1882. As well as being a space for overwintering plants, it is also home to a butterfly house. And along with that, a brasserie that combines yesteryear charm with hip flair. Emperors once used these spaces to relax in, and today many people take a time-out in this Jugendstil building to linger over a breakfast or sample one of the exquisite wines. Located on a side wing of the Hofburg, out on the impressive terrace you have the castle gardens directly at your feet. It’s a meeting-point for romantics, nostalgics, and culture lovers. Artists and musicians regularly perform in these special rooms. www.palmenhaus.at

It’s an institution, and belongs to Vienna just like the Kaffeehaus and the Lippizaner horse: the Würstelstand. You will find these stalls on countless street corners, serving as a meeting point for people of different social classes and backgrounds. People chat, philosophise – and, naturally, take in a snack too. It’s an expression of something a little un-Viennese, this mix of friendliness and old times. Some of them have adapted their look stylishly to the modern age, giving a contemporary twist to the old tradition. The famous Bitzinger Wüstelstände on the Albertinaplatz or by the ferris wheel, for instance, rank amongst the best in Vienna. And definitely the most chic: with a stylised, reduced, modern look. From the Opera Ball visitor to the taxi-driver, hungers are satisfied here with a hot dog or a specialist sausage such as a Bosna or Käsekrainer. What you need to know is that, at the sausage stand, everyone is equal. There’s beer on tap, wine, and even champagne The Xpedit Kiosk, located inside this popular pub, is similarly untypical. Hip flair is served up along with your sausage – here, in the fashionable Freihaus district, which is a run of small galleries.

1 // Popfest in the Karlskirche squareLocal musicians take to the stage at Vienna’s

Popfest. With free admission for all.

2 // ImPulsTanz dance festivalA dance festival that attracts superlatives, with

an innovative programme and international

artists.

3 // Tradition meets modernity:At the 2015 Eurovision Song Contest in Vienna.

4 // The Danube CanalNowadays a colourful venue for culture.

Vienna’s Ringstrasse“Es ist mein Wille …” (“It is my will…”) – with

these words, Emperor Franz Joseph instructed

the building of the Ringstrasse in 1875. It is a

journey of discovery – and a journey in time on

the trail of the Habsburgs, with architectural

masterpieces that line up along the road over a

distance of 5 km: the State Opera, the parliament

building, the town hall and Burgtheater, the uni-

versity and the Votivkirche, the Kunsthistorisches

Museum and the Naturhistorisches Museum.

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The Marchfeld is an exciting area of Lower Austria. As one of the biggest plains in the country, it is bounded on two sides by rivers: by the March to the east, and to the south by the Danube and its picturesque water meadows. Its alternative name, as the “Kornkammer Österreichs” (the “Corn basket of Austria”) is down to its productive agriculture. It is also an important supplier of vegetables to nearby Vienna.

But the area also possesses a rich heritage of history. The traces which noble families have left behind in the area over the past centuries remain impressive. Within easy reach of the capital, they built glamorous summer residences and country retreats. Fascinating gardens surrounded the magnificent castles, largely built in the Baroque style of the 18th century.

Six of these magnificent buildings, reflecting the glory of past ages, are known under the collective name Marchfelderschlösser. These are the castles of Marchegg, Hof, Niederweiden, Eckartsau, Orth and Obersiebenbrunn. The latter now houses a monastery. Others, too, have discovered a new use following restoration: for instance Schloss Orth, which houses the administrative unit for the Donau-Auen National Park. It is the starting-point for many of its discovery trails through the protected natural landscape, 30 kilometres in length, which is one of the biggest intact water meadow areas in Europe. Particularly impressive is Schloss Hof, which extends over an area of over 50 hectares, making it Austria’s biggest rural castle complex. In the late 1720s, Prince Eugene of Savoy created a special kind of country seat with hunting grounds for himself here: an imposing complex of buildings which ranks amongst the very best in Europe. At its heart was a breathtaking garden, planted with rare and exotic specimens, ranged over seven terraces down to the March. From 2002 on, the castle was comprehensively renovated. The original furniture and art objects were restored to their rightful places, and the garden now radiates its original splendour, with its powerful fountains, its secluded niches, its magnificent seas of flowers and impressive sculptures. In this enchanting world, visitors are free to wander at will or to have a go at Baroque living for themselves in the dairy block, with activities from basket-weaving to distilling schnapps. There are also regular events staged in the Prince’s own dreamland, from the Easter market to the gardening workshops to the major Baroque festival.

Lower Austria is not only a land of castles, but also one of natural beauties. In addition to the Donau-Auen National Park, the region is also home to the protected area of the Thayatal National Park. The smallest of Austria’s national parks offers plenty of unspoilt countryside: steeply-sloping rock walls, natural forests of shrubs, and gentle meadows. Guided tours take you through the area on the trail of beavers and otters.

Vienna is the only major city to have a its own noteworthy vineyards. But the regions around the capital also have a liking for the noble grape. The best example is Langenlois in Lower Austria, the country’s biggest wine-growing district. Situated in the beautiful Kamptal valley, in addition to its gentle vineyards and attractive hills it is also home to the Loisium Weinerlebniswelt, probably the most unusual centre

Stunning castles, paradises of nature, and outstand-ing wines: the best places in the Vienna area.

V IENNA & THE SURROUNDING AREA

Getting out of the city for a change!

Things worth knowing about the Vienna environs

An impressive statistic that speaks for itself:

over one-third of the land area of Burgenland is

protected, for nature conservancy or as protected

cultivated land.

The St. Martins Therme spa in the Seewinkel

region offers deluxe regeneration to those seeking

some rest and relaxation. Making your choice

is not that easy: outdoor brine pools and sauna

worlds, hot rooms and a wellness area with indoor

and outdoor pools. www.stmartins.at

Museumsdorf NiedersulzAn authentic historical village offering an

impressive insight into the vintners’ lifestyle and

working life. The original buildings are arranged

in a natural garden and include a cellar lane and a

country inn. www.museumsdorf.at

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V IENNA & THE SURROUNDING AREA

for wine by some distance. This emblematic building has an unusual design, created by the American star architect Steven Holl: it is cube-shaped, and has a futuristic shell in brushed aluminium. This wine museum with its attached designer hotel is also impressive when you look at it more closely. It leads you down into a 990-year old, labyrinthine world of cellars.Once you are in the area, you should not pass up on the opportunity to explore it further. For instance, by taking an outing to the neighbouring garden village of Schiltern. Here you can make a stop at Arche Noah, an association for preserving and developing the diversity of our cultivated plants. Or perhaps take a trip to the impressive town of Krems, scenically located beside the Danube.

In Burgenland, too, much revolves around the noble vine. In the south of the province, for example, there is the Naturpark in der Weinidylle: an area where waterside woodlands and marshy meadows come together with straw-covered cellars and romantically-planted vineyards. Possibly the most unusual jewel here is Heiligenbrunn, a place with over a hundred wine cellars that are protected buildings. You can walk from one winery to the next, readily succumbing to the pace of life and enjoying wine from regional farmers.

In the north of Burgenland, too, the fruitful soil is the basis for many award-winning wines. And you can hardly be in the area without visiting the Neusiedler See. The “Viennese sea” (“Meer der Wiener”), as it is often longingly referred to, does actually merit this title: you can gaze almost endlessly far over a body of water and reeds that covers a total of 320 square kilometres. The climate is mild, with some 2,000 hours of sunshine a year recorded here. And the often strong winds also make the lake a popular centre for sailors, windsurfers and kiters. The lake is now categorised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

A visit to the Mole West is to be recommended without fail. The café-restaurant is an architectural delight, with its playful lightness: built directly out over the Neusiedler See, it’s the perfect viewing point for watching the live action of the sailors, the colours reflected in the water, or the swooping birds. It’s a wonderful spectacle to be enjoyed, accompanied by contemporary cuisine conjured up using fresh, and often regional, ingredients. And regular concerts complete the picture. So it really is close at hand, la dolce vita. Particularly if you are stationed on the magnificent terrace and watching the colourful sunset.

Incidentally, the region’s most well-known producer of pleasure is called Erich Stekovics, and he is to be found in Frauenkirchen. From the small vegetable business his father ran, he has carved out a specialist niche for his plants: Stekovics breeds old and long-forgotten varieties of tomato. They range from “Dattelwein” to the “Rose of Lebanon”, are sometimes yellow and sometimes green, flavoured by exotic notes of melon or banana. The farmer wakes over 3,200 varieties threatened with extinction from their beauty sleep. In summer, there are guided tours where Stekovics explains the origins and flavours of his favourite varieties. He is keen to emphasise one point – that he never waters his tomatoes. He leaves them to the plentiful sun that shines here. And to the strong wind that regularly blows. It’s a life close to nature, and a region full of ease, for which the slogan of the Mole West is well-suited: “There is more philosophy in a bottle of wine than in all the books in the world.” (Louis Pasteur)

1 // Schlosshof Palace Historical ballet performance at the great

Baroque Festival.

2 // Thayatal National ParkOne of the most beautiful, most romantic and

most species-rich valley landscapes.

3 // Neusiedler SeeThe countryside around the Neusiedler See is a

UNESCO World Heritage Site.

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