Aru Padai Veedugal: Six Abodes of Lord Murugaby Nirmala Ramachandran

Kali Yuga, the age indicating a period of darkness and degeneration commenced about 3100 BC. Many Hindus believe that the presiding deity of this yugam is Lord Muruga (Kali Yuga Varadan) whose Vel, which symbolises the spear of victory, will eventually restore peace and harmony, destroying arrogance, violence, and injustice. The worship of Lord Muruga goes back to the pre-Christian era and forms an important facet in the religious life of Hindus.

One of the many legends associated with the origin of Lord Muruga states that Lord Shiva emitted sparks from his third eye and these fell into the Saravana Poikai (lake) to become six infants. The wives of six rishis nurtured the babies and were subsequently rewarded to appear as the constellation Pleiades. When the divine consort Parvati beheld the beauty of these children, she embraced them all forcibly together to become one form with six heads and twelve arms. In this form Lord Muruga is known as Shanmukha or Arumuga Swami.

The poet Nakeerar of the Sangam Age sang many songs in praise of the Lord, among them the well known composition Tirumurugartrupadai which describes the six most important abodes of Lord Muruga (Aarupadai Veedu). They are:

1. Tirupparunkunram 2. Tiruchendur 3. Palani 4. Swamimalai 5. Tiruttani and 6. Palamuthircholai .

The Subramaniam temple at Tirupparunkunram situated six miles south of Madurai is an ancient shrine dating back to the 2nd century BC. According to legend it was here that Lord Muruga wed Teyvayanai, daughter of Indra, after his victory over Soorapadman and the asuras. The temple built on the northern side of the hill at an elevation of about 300 feet from the foot of the hill has a 150 foot tall gopuram of seven tiers over its entrance. The main sanctum carved into the rock enshrines a well chiselled form of the Lord. Also hollowed within the rock are many mandapams with carved pillars, platforms, and other shrines with decorative relief and carvings on all surfaces. All abishekams are performed to the Vel in the main sanctum. At the summit of the hill is a shrine dedicated to Kasi Visvanathar, beside which is a statue of the poet Nakeerar in an attitude of great reverence.

One of the most popular fanes dedicated to Lord Muruga is situated at Tiruchendur by the shores of the Indian ocean. The 137 foot tall gopuram of nine tiers facing west was constructed in the 17th century AD. The main sanctum enshrines the Lord as Senthilnathan while facing south is a sanctum with a most beautiful and majestic icon of Sri Shanmukha. About 200 feet north is Valli's Cave cut within natural sandstone rock with a image of Śrī Valli.

Nakkirar saved his own life and that of 999 innocent people from the clutches of Karkimukhi, a demon, by singing Tirumurukatrupadai in praise of Muruka who came to his rescue at Tirupparankundram.

Panoramic view of Tiruchendur temple and seashore

Tiruchendur seashore

temple

On the southern side of the temple is the Nazhi Kineru (well) which has a smaller well of crystal clear water within it. According to mythology, the well the spot where the Lord threw his Vel to obtain water for his devotees who were parched with thirst. Legend states that it was here at Tiruchendur, after six days of prayer and fasting that Lord Muruga defeated Soorapadman with the Vel given to him by his Divine mother. After his victory he returned to Tiruchendur to offer a prayer to Lord Shiva.

The main festival at this fane is held for six days in October-November each year to re-enact the defeat of Soorapadman. Hundreds of thousands of devotees throng the temple premises and its surroundings to observe six days of fasting and prayer. The faith and love of these devotees for Lord Muruga is demonstrated by the fact that in spite of immense hardship they come to this beautiful and picturesque shrine year after year.

The popular hill temple of Palani in the Western Ghats dates from a remote past and enshrines the Lord as Śrī Dandayuthapani. At the foot of the hill is an even more ancient fane named Tiruvavinankudi, also dedicated to Lord Muruga.

According to mythology, the origin of the temple is based on the story when Lord Shiva offered a mango as a prize to the son who encircled the world first. Lord Muruga set off at great pace on his peacock, while Lord Ganesha went round his divine parents indicating that they were the universe, and thereby won the prize Mango. Lord Muruga in his frustration, clad only in a hermit's garb and carrying the staff dandam left Mount Kailasa for the South. His divine parents tried to dissuade him saying "Palam Nee", which in Tamil means "Thou art the fruit of all wisdom and knowledge" (hence the derivation of Palani). He was not appeased and took up residence at Tiruvavinankudi and later moved to the top of the hill.

During this time the sage Agastyar requested his disciple Idumban to bring the twin hills Sivagiri and Saktigiri from Mt Kailas to the South. Idumban carried them in the form of a "kavadi" and set it down near the Palani Hills in order to rest for a while. When he tried to lift it he found that it could not be moved. He saw a boy with a baton atop one hill and an altercation ensued. Idumban was killed by the boy who was Lord Muruga. On a plea by Agastyar, Idumban was restored to life, and granted the wish that all who carry kavadees to his temples in fulfilment of vows shall be blessed. A shrine to Idumban is seen at the top of the hill.

It is believed that a siddha named Bhogar, a younger contemporary of Agastyar, created the icon of the Lord which is enshrined in the sanctum sanctorum. It was made from nine different medicinal minerals, and all materials coming in contact with the icon gained curative properties. However, in recent years it was discovered that certain parts of the icon were wasting away and hence all abishekams are performed to another icon placed in the main sanctum.

In the past pilgrims had to climb 697 stone steps to reach the temple at the hilltop. Since 1966 a haulage winch transports the pilgrims to the shrine, the entrance of which is an extensive quadrangle. The temple itself is very spacious with beautiful mandapams and carved pillars. Throughout the year there is an endless stream of devotees to this shrine. The main festival Panguni Uttiram is celebrated for tne days in March/April each year at the temple at the foot of the hill. The icon of the Lord as Muttu Kumaraswami is taken in procession each day to the delight of the thousands of devotees.

Six miles from Kumbakonam and built on an artificial hillock stands the temple of Śrī Swaminathan at Swami Malai. To reach the main sanctum devotees have to ascend 60 steps

representing the Hindu cycle of 60 years. A shrine dedicated to Meenakshi and Sundareshwara constructed by Varaguna Pandyan of Madurai, and another to Ganesha stands at the foot of the flight of steps.

Midway up the steps is a life-sized icon depicting Lord Muruga imparting the Pranava Mantram to his divine father Lord Shiva who assumes a posture of folded hands and bowed head before his guru. In the sanctum santorum the presiding deity is represented by a six foot tall granite icon in a standing posture offering darshan to all his devotees.

About one mile from the temple is the main centre where artistic icons in bronze are created by highly skilled craftsmen in continuance of the Chola tradition. Many foreigners order icons of their choice from this centre which is well equipped to despatch their selections to their respective countries.

The name Tiruttani means " blissful repose" and it is here that Lord Muruga went to lead a life of meditation, and where he is known as Tanikasalam. This temple, about 60 miles from Chennai is on the hill called Tanikai Malai and can be reached by ascending 365 steps or by a motorable road.

According to mythology it was here that the divine marriage of the Lord to Śrī Valli took place. The main festival at this temple is on Adi Karttikai day in July/August each year when the temple precincts becomes a sea of humanity. On this day thousands of kavadees of various types are borne across their shoulders by pilgrims dressed in yellow, in fulfilment of vows made to the Lord of Tiruttani. These devotees cheerfully dance their way up the steps overcome by the hypnotic music and kavadi songs. A float festival also takes place on this day at the Saravana Poikai at the foot of the hil1.

The jungle shrine of Palamuthircholai stands on the slopes of the Alagar hills about twelve miles east of Madurai. The temple is composed of three shrines dedicated to Ganesha, Muruga and Lord Shiva. This fane surrounded by thick jungle presents a picturesque scene of peace and quiet, the only disturbance being created by hoardes of monkeys. Nearby are many waterfalls and spas where pilgrims take a ritual bath. This shrine is of special significance as according to legend, it was the place where the Lord with his two consorts gave darshan to his devotees.

Lord Muruga has graced many of his ardent devotees with the capacity to compose poems and songs of praise. Noteworthy among them are Kumara Guruparan, the author of Pillai Tamil, and Devaraya Swamigal, the author of Kanda Shasti Kavasam. In some instances he assisted them by himself composing the first line of the leading verse of these songs of praise, and further, endowed them with the talent to write them. Arunagirinathar who composed the Tirupugazh, and Kacchiyappa Sivachariar the composer of Kanda Puranam have been recipients of this rare privilege. These literary works have greatly enriched the Tamil language and culture.

These six abodes together with numerous other temples dedicated to Lord Muruga are a vibrant testimony to the continuing worship of this deity by hundreds of thousands of his devotees. At these shrines they find themselves liberated from the narrow prejudices of caste and language. They all become devotees with one goal, of having a darshan of Lord Muruga when they find peace and tranquility for a short while.

Tiruchendur in the far south of Tamil Nadu is renowned among Murugan devotees everywhere as one of the greatest of the Lord's Aru Padai Veedugal, literally 'Six Battle Camps'. Indeed, it is

here that Murugan and his deva-sena or army of celestials confront and vanquish the titan Surapadma and his demonic horde. This momentous struggle is annually re-created at Tiruchendur on the sixth day of Skanda Sashti, the 'Six (days) of Skanda'.

The Tiruchendur Devasthanam and sacred area date from hoary antiquity. Some stone columns and inscriptions date from a thousand years ago, though most of the present temple dates from later periods. Literary evidence, however, including notably the Tirumurukarrupadai, indicates that Tiruchendur has been regarded as exceptionally sacred at least since the early Christian era and probably far earlier.

Bhogar, using nine different minerals, creates the Dandapani vigraha and sanctifies it.

Golden vimanam and Raja gopuram, palini.

Ropeway

According to tradition, after the final battle on the beach at Tiruchendur, Lord Murugan felt remorse for His role in slaughtering Surapadma's demonic army. He therefore built a shrine nearby to His Father Lord Siva and worshipped Him there. Technically, therefore, the temple is dedicated to Lord Siva. Yet the mulasthanam deity is Lord Senthil Andavar Himself standing in a majestic and relaxed pose facing east towards the sea, alone and without His consorts Valli and Devasena.

Traditions including all the elaborate daily pujas are strictly maintained. Men, therefore, may enter only bare-bodied to the waist in the age-old Tamil tradition of baring one's breast to the deity. 

Kanda Sashti vows

Murugan bhaktars traditionally regard Kanda Sashti as an opportunity to undertake such vows as:

fasting for six days on fruit or similar light diet; offering annadanam, the 'gift of food' to the Lord and His devotees; shaving off the hair from one's head as an offering (even women too); singing Tiruppukazh or bhajanai as offerings; or performing angapradakshina, literally 'body circumambulation', etc.

Angapradakshina is a specialty at Tiruchendur. During Kanda Sashti one may see hundreds of men, women and children rolling the 400-500 meters around the shrine with heads towards the deity in the early morning hours. Fasting is also very common not only at Tiruchendur but among traditional Murugan devotees all over the world. These acts loosen one's attachment to the body and help to draw one's attention towards the ever-present absolute Reality that transcends life and death.

Many also regard vows as small ways of obtaining the Lord's grace or repaying His generosity. Treat Tiruchendur Murugan with respect and affection, and He will return your affection many times over. Though full of might and danger for the heedless and proud of this world, towards His friends He is tender and supportive, if also inscrutable.

What to see at Tiruchendur Kanda Sashti

During Kanda Sashti, Tiruchendur throngs with tens of thousands of bhaktars from all over Tamil Nadu, especially from southern districts. Many are old hands who come year after year. Hence, Tiruchendur Kanda Sashti is also an annual convention of sorts for the Lord's devotees. Unlike at many modern temples, there are no loudspeakers blaring film music. Yet during Kanda Sashti in recent years a closed-circuit television system allows devotees (hundreds of whom camp out inside the massive stone temple for six days or more) to view the rituals in the yaaga salai as well as cinema classics of Murugan devotion such as Kantan Karunai.

Outside the Devasthanam, especially in the outer praharam or circumambulatory corridor, parties of devotees may be seen singing bhajanai and performing kummi, dancing in group circles while clapping hands and singing. At the large open-air lecture hall nearby, hundreds enjoy the non-stop program of devotional talks by learned devotees. Of course, the seashore is very near and there are always hundreds there as well enjoying the most famous beach in Tamil Nadu. Just fifty meters from the beach is Naazhi Kinnaru, the miraculous freshwater spring which Lord Murugan is said to have created with His Vel to quench the thirst of his warriors after the great battle. For young and old alike, Tiruchendur Kanda Sashti is an unforgettable occasion.

Festival climax: The Surasamharam Battle

The high point of Kanda Sashti, of course, is on the sixth day when the Surasamharam or 'Destruction of the Titan' takes place. At many Murugan temples this is ritually re-enacted, but nowhere is it re-enacted on such a scale as at Tiruchendur, where the actual battle is believed to have taken place in pre-history. On that day, half a million devotees descend upon Tiruchendur to witness the final shoot-out on the vast beachfront. Nowadays the event is also telecast on Indian radio and television for millions more to see.

Needless to say, it is a challenging task to come anywhere near the battle site. Specially-erected barriers and hundreds of special duty police are there to hold back the massive and exited crowd. But if you are adventurous and light-footed it is possible to enter into the midst of the action, taking care not to get trampled in the process.

In brief, the Surasamharam goes like this. Around 3pm or so, a huge palanquin bearing the titan Gajamukha ('Elephant-faced') is carried by men of a local caste group down to the beach where he stands and dares Senthil Andavar to come out of His temple and fight. Some say that Gajamukha is "Surapadma's brother". But the most ancient Tamil traditions mention only the terrible and cruel Soor ('Terror' personified) who is described as a shape-shifter who can take any form and who cannot be killed. More recent traditions speak of Surapadma and his three 'brothers' who successively confront Murugan and are annihilated each in turn.

Not one to turn away from a fight, Lord Murugan emerges from His Kanda Sashti Mandapam borne on a smaller palanquin by Brahmin men devotees. In the form of a modest-sized brass likeness of the Lord with His Vel or spear held aloft ready to hurl, He is garlanded with lemons, an essential ingredient of South Indian ritual magic. The Lord and His Vel gleam brightly in the

On the sixth day of Kanda Sashti, Lord Senthil Andavar and his army of devotees engage the army of supertitan Cur in battle on the beach at Tiruchendur and vanquish them in an hour-long running battle. At last Cur hides in the form of a monstrous mango tree (below) at the bottom of the ocean, but Murugan hurls his Vel and splits the tree/demon into a cock and a peacock.

afternoon sunlight with the Bay of Bengal as a stark backdrop. He appears relaxed but ready for single-handed battle.

The asura then runs around his divine Adversary borne by his loudly shouting troops, first clockwise, then counter-clockwise while Lord Senthil Andavar and His troops just remain at ease. Then the asura stands back and suddenly charges face-on but halts and draws back. He does this three times but the Lord is undisturbed. So the asura and his troops haul out and fire a missile (a real firecracker-sized rocket guided by a string between two poles held aloft). The missile heads straight towards the Lord, but something happens and the missile stops and turns back towards its senders, causing a roar of delight from the Lord's supporters. To film this properly, one has to get so close to the asura that sparks are flying at one's face and there is a real danger of getting trampled. The Lord and His troops then charge at the asura with lances drawn and with full battle cry. One young Iyer among them, who represents Lord Murugan, thrusts his spear at the asura and beheads it. The crowd instantly roars its approval.

Then the asura army withdraws some fifty meters and regroups. A new head (of Simha-mukha, the 'Lion-faced' titan) is mounted on the asura's body and again the same things happen. Four times the procedure is repeated; the fourth time Surapadma himself (or his head rather) is represented by a live cock. When Surapadma is vanquished, symbolically he split by the Lord's Vel into the cock and the peacock, the Lord's banner-symbol and vehicle-totem respectively. On the following day (the seventh) there is the Tiru Kalyanam or marriage of Senthil Andavar to Lord Indra's daughter Devasena or Teyvanai Amman as She is best known -- the crowning acknowledgement of the Lord's triumph. This occurs at Tirupparankundram near Madurai but the same marriage is also celebrated in grand style at Tiruchendur.

Śrī Murugananda Sangeeta Tiruppukazh Sabha

As an ancient temple town, Tiruchendur is home to ancient traditions, of which Kanda Sashti festival is the most famous. Like any ancient pilgrimage center, however, Tiruchendur has witnessed slow but steady change over the centuries. Over the centuries, for instance, there have been times when local kings felt that more Brahmin priests were required to conduct the elaborate services for Lord Senthil Andavar. Today, however, there are so many Iyer families in Tiruchendur that most can scarcely make a decent livelihood by continuing their ancestral calling.

One of Tiruchendur's fading traditions is its Śrī Murugananda Sangeeta Tiruppukazh Sabha, the 'Assembly for Music of Divine Praise of Murugan'. The Sabha has maintained its own spacious Tiruppukazh Manimantiram hall since its founding over sixty years ago. Even today a resident brahmachari maintains the hall and conducts daily services at its shrine room. But the aging and dwindling population of Tiruppukazh devotees in Tiruchendur finds it difficult to maintain its center there and has

Senthil Andavar arrives in grand wedding procession on the seventh day to wed Teyvanai Amman.

appealed to Murugan Bhakti to save it from eventual collapse. The entire center has been offered to Murugan Bhakti enthusiasts to develop into a residential ashram.

Palani Hill Temple and the Idol

Lord Murugan is the deity of the Tamil Land. Palani (Tiru Avinankudi) is the third Padai Veedu. The temple at Palani is an ancient one, situated at an elevation of 1500 feet above sea level. The deity of Palani is known as Dandayudhapani Swami, the Lord having the Staff in his Hand. The deity at the sanctum sanctorum is made out of an amalgam of nine minerals popularly called Navabashana. The deity is in a standing position with a baton in his hand. He has the look of a person who has renounced all worldly pomp. He has just a loincloth besides the baton. He is a mute messenger of the great precept 'Renounce all to reach Me'. The icon is unique in the whole world. It was made by siddha Bhogar by combining nine poisonous substances (navabashana). Murugan signifies beauty and Lord Murugan of Kurinji land is the god of Beauty and Youth.

The Legendary, Historical and Spiritual Significance of the Hill Temple

There is a legend how Lord Murugan came to this sacred spot. Narada Muni, a sage, brought a golden mango to the divine court of Lord Siva when Lord Siva was seated with his consort Parvati and His children Lord Vinayakar and Lord Subrahmanya. Narada gave the fruit to Lord Siva and implored Him to eat since it was a rare, miraculous Jñanapalam, the fruit of wisdom. As a loving husband, Lord Siva gave it to Parvati and requested her to eat. As a loving mother, she wanted to give the fruit to her children. As there was only one fruit and it should not be cut, they announced a contest and said that the winner would be given the fruit. Whoever completes one round of the globe first will be given the fruit.

Lord Subrahmanya mounted His peacock to go around the world. Lord Vinayakar circumambulated around His parents, symbolising the world, and got the fruit. On return, Lord Subrahmanya found that He was cheated. In anger, He renounced His family and came to this spot to settle forever. Lord Siva and Parvati came to pacify Him. They said, "Pazham Nee" ('You are the Fruit'). Hence the name Palani is a popular syncopation of the two words mentioned.

The presiding deity, Lord Dandayudhapani Swami, is the son of Lord Siva and son-in-law of Vishnu. He has other names such as Kulandaivelan, Balasubrahmanyan, Shanmukhan, Devasenapati, Swaminathan, Vallimanalan, Devayanaimanalan, Palaniandavar, Kuriñjiandavar, Arumugan, Jñana Pandita, Saravanan, Sevar Kodiyon, etc. Tamils, Keralites, Bengalis, Sri Lankans, Malaysians, Fijians, Africans, Australians and Americans to name a few come here to worship Lord Muruga. Thus Murugan worship cuts across provincial boundaries and national frontiers.

Cheaman Perumal, a ruler of Kerala, built the main temple perhaps in the 7th Century AD. The Nayaks built the Navaranga Mandapam which is a fascinating stone structure incorporated by four pillars and endowed with nine bays. The other portions of the temple have been built by the Pandiya kings, besides a number of local heads, religious groups and individual devotees.

Pujas

There are six pujas every day. At 5 am the Lord gives Visvarupa Darshana. The first puja is Vizhapuja at 7:15 am followed by Kala sandhi at 8am, Uchikalam at 12 noon, Sayaraksha at 6 pm and Rakkalam at 8 pm.

Golden Chariot

The Golden Chariot goes round the praharam on the top of the hill in a ceremonious procession along with nadaswaram, Tiruppukazh music and other temple paraphenalia at 7 pm on all Karttikai days and as per the request of the devotees. The illuminated Golden Car is a veritable fairyland.

Festivals

Panguniuttiram, Thai Pucam, Kanda Sasthi, Agni Nakshatram are the major festivals. Vaikasi Vishakam, Tirukkarttikai and other festivals are also celebrated.

Kavadi & Pada Yatra

Devotees from various places bring different types of kavadis and offerings to the Lord by pada yatra or foot pilgrimage , the most popular time being Thai Pucam.

Bhogar Shrine

The Bhogar Shrine is in the southwestern corridor of the hill temple. Siddhar Bhogar created the icon (the amalgam of nine minerals) and did daily services. He lived long ago, perhaps 3000 BC. A medical prodigy as he was, he could prepare the amalgam on nine medicinal minerals in proper proportion. In this shrine, pujas are offered to Navadurga, Bhuvaneswari and Maragatha Lingam that were worshipped by Bhogar. It is said that there is a subterranean tunnel linking the shrine with the sanctum sanctorum through which Bhogar is said to go to the main idol and perform daily pujas as he is said to be only in nirvikalpa samadhi.

Pañchamirtam & Rakkala Sandanam

Lord Muruga is Abhisekapriya (fond of anointment), especially Pañchamirta (fruit jam having medicinal properties). The Devasthanam prepares pañchamirta, vibhuti and other items which are sold for reasonable price. Like Pañchamirta, the Rakkala Sandanam (sandal paste placed on the deity during the night) has special significance and sanctity.

Haulage Winch

To climb the hill, there are also winch trolleys in addition to the traditional route of 697 steps.

The Hundial

The Hundial is the cash collection box. It is the backbone of the economy of the temple. Palani Dandayudhapani Swami Devasthanam has the honour of being the temple of highest income in Tamil Nadu and second only in all India after Tirupati.

Annadanam (Offering meals to poor pilgrims)

Giving annadanam at the hill temple at 12:30 pm is a useful scheme for the benefit of the devotees. If a donor deposits Rs 25,000, the interest of it will be utilised for annadanam on a particular day as per the request of the donor.

Tonsure Ceremony

Tonsure ceremony is a special feature of Palani. Many devotees of all ages perform tonsure ceremony at Palani.

Constituent Temples

Tiruvavinankudi, Periyanagaki Amman temple, Shanmuganadhi group of temples, Idumban Hills, Vishnu temple, Pada Vinayagar temple, 108 Vinayagar shrines around the hill temple, the Kuriñjiandawar temple (Kodaikkanal), the Velappar temple aat Poomparai (Kodaikkanal) are the important constituent temples adminstered by Palani Dandayudhapani Swami Devasthanam.

Management

This temple is under the control of the Hindu Religious and Charitable Endowments Department of the Government of Tamil Nadu. There is a Joint Commissioner/Executive Officer to look after the day-to-day administration of Palani temples. He works in close association with the Chairman, Board of Trustees and other members.

Accommodation

The Devasthanam has constructed pilgrims' resthouses, single, double, deluxe and air-conditioned rooms as well as cottages. Reasonable rates are collected from the devotees.

Transportation

Palani is reached by just three hours drive from any of the nearest airports: Coimbatore, Madurai and Tiruchy. It is an important railway station on the Dindugal-Coimbatore line. The nearest tourist information office is at Madurai. There is a Palani Devasthanam Information Centre at the Palani bus stand.

Shopping

View of Palani Malai from Palani town centre

Panchamirtam, vibhuti, souvenirs of Murugan, toys, handicrafts, pictures of the Lord and publications of the Devasthanam are among the souvenirs one can bring home from Palani.

Arulmigu Swaminatha Swami Temple, Swamimalai

Location

Swamimalai is a sylvan village, situated about five kilometers west of Kumbakonam on the banks of a tributary of river Cauvery. The temple is situated very close to the bus stand and the railway station is about two kilometers away. It is well connected to and surrounded by important places like Kumbakonam, Tiruvidaimarutur, Mayiladuthurai, Papanasam, Tanjavur etc.

Mythology and History

Swamimalai is fourth among the six padai veedu or sacred shrines dedicated to Lord Muruga. The presiding deity here expounded the meaning of the Pranava mantra OM to his own Father Lord Siva Himself.

Mythology says that saint Bhrugu before commencing an arduous tavam or penance, got the boon that anybody disturbing his mediation will forget all his knowledge. Such was the power of the penance that the sacred fire emanating from the head of the saint reached up to the heavens, and the frightened devas surrendered to Lord Siva praying for his grace. The Lord extinguished the sacred fire by covering the saint's head by hand. With the saint's penance thus disturbed the Lord became

oblivious of all his knowledge and is said to have regained them by learning the Pranava mantra from Lord Muruga at this shrine.

Once when Brahma, the lord of all creations was proceeding to Kailasa, the ever-playful child Lord Muruga asked him for the meaning of the Pranava OM. When Brahma admitted his ignorance, the Lord imprisoned him. With Brahma imprisoned, all creations came to a standstill and the devas prayed to Lord Siva to get Brahma released. When

Śrī Swāminātha Swāmi

Scene at Swamimalai:

Murugan gives upadesha to His

Father Siva

Arulmigu Swaminatha Swami

Temple, Swamimalai today

Arulmigu Swaminatha Swami Temple, Swamimalai, as it was in the 19th century

Arulmigu Swaminatha Swami Temple, Swamimalai,

as it looked in the 19th century

Arulmigu Swaminatha Swami Temple, Sannidhi

Muruga insisted that the imprisonment was a just punishment for the ignorance of Brahma, Lord Siva asked him whether he himself knew the meaning of the primordial Pranava OM. Lord Muruga said that he knew the meaning of OM and can expound it to the latter only if he can accept him as guru and listen to the exposition as a devoted disciple. As Lord Siva acceded to the request of Lord Muruga and heard the exposition of OM as a disciple, the place came to be known as Swamimalai and the presiding deity as Swaminathan.

The temple is built on an artificial hillock of about sixty feet height with sixty beautifully laid stone steps representing the Hindu cycle of sixty years - leading to the Lord . In the ground floor there are temples dedicated to Lord Sundareswarer and Goddesss Meenakshi.

Hymns in praise of the presiding deity have been sung by saint Nakkeerar in Tirumurukatrupadai and by Saint Arunagirnathar in Tiruppukazh.

Pujas and Festivals

Daily pujas to the deities are performed six times a day (six kalams). Usha Kalam, Kalasandhi and Uchikala poojas are performed in the forenoon and the afternoon poojas commencing from Sayaratchai and Rendam kalam are concluded with Arthajama pooja in the night.

The important festivals conducted in the temple are:

1. Monthly Kirutikai festival; 2. Temple Car festival in April; 3. Visakam festival in May; 4. Navaratri festival in May; 5. Skanda Shashti festival in October; 6. Tiru Karthikai festival in Nov/December; 7. Taippūcam festival in January; and 8. Pankuni Uttiram festival in March.

Golden Chariot

The temple has an imposing golden chariot made of seven kilos of gold, 85 kilos of silver and other metals like copper, beautifully illuminated with electric bulbs.

Devotees on payment of Rs. 1001 can take the deity in a procession in the golden charriot around the outer corridor. Devotees are offered a shawl, eversilver pot and a small box with the Lord's prasadam.

Facilities

For the convenience of the pilgrims and devotees, 11 rooms, four cottages, two VIP cottages, one donor cottages, three marriage halls and one dining hall have been constructed and are let out at nominal rent ranging from Rs. 20/- to Rs. 100/- per day only.

Sub-temples

Among the sub-temples under the administration of the Swamimalai temple, the Sveta Vinayagar temple at Tiruvalanchuli is an important one. The presiding deity Lord Sadaimudinathar and Goddess Perianayaki have been sung by Tirugnanasambandar and Tirunavukkarasar in Tēvāram. A unique feature of this temple is the Sveta Vinayagar or White Pillaiyar made of the sea foam formed at the time of churning of the Milky Ocean by the devas and asuras to get the nectar. The sacred Cauvery River flowing nearby herself has turned around in a right semicircle around this shrine and hence the name Valanchuli or right twist. Renovation of this temple at a cost of Rs. 50 Lakhs is progressing.

Another architecturally beautiful temple at Kilpazhayarai dedicated to Lord Somanathaswami is also under renovtion at an estimated cost of Rs. 50 Lakhs. It is worth mentioning that this shring is the birthplace of Saint Managaiyarkarasi, one among the 63 Nayanmars. Hymns in praise of the presiding deity have been sung by Tirunavukkarasar.

Other sub-temples mentioned below under the administrative control of Swamimalai temple are also to be renovated at a modest cost of about Rs. 5 lakhs each.

1. Dharmapureeswarar Temple, Vallalarkoil; 2. Chakravageeswarar Temple, Chakkrapalli; 3. Ezhutharinathar Temple, Innambur; 4. Skandanathar Temple, Tiruerakaram; and 5. Thirupandeeswarar Temple, Adanur.

All the above temples along with the Swamimalai temple are administered by an Asst. Commissioner / Executive Officer appointed by the Commissioner, Hindu Religious and Charitable Endowments Dept, Chennai.

Śrī Subrahmanya Swāmi Kovil, Tiruttani

The beautiful temple of Lord Muruga at Tiruttani crowns a single rock 700 feet above sea level. It is situated amidst a range of hills with a dramatic panoramic view. This sacred place is on the Madras-Bombay route, 13 kilometers from Arkonam and 84 kilometers from Madras.

Around this town are famous religious places such as Kancheepuram (Banares of the South) on the South, Sholingar and Vallimalai on the West, the popular and renowned pilgrimage centre, Tirupati (otherwise called Balaji) and Kalahasti (with its Vayu Lingam) on the North and Tiruvalangadu (of puranic fame) with Lord Nataraja on the East.

Greatness of Tirutanikai: Puranic Importance

Of Lord Murugan's six Padaiveedus, Tirutanikai ranks prominent as the crown jewel of our Lord. As its very name indicates, when we propitiate our Lord in this holy shrine, He blesses us with mental peace and bodily happiness. His righteous indignation towards the asuras for their cruelty is said to have been quelled and cooled at this place which is, therefore, known as Shantipuri

(Abode of Peace). As the prayers and desires of the devotees who worship our Lord Tanikesan on this hill with unserving faith and intense devotion are fulfilled in no time, this hill is also called Chanikasalam.

When our Lord came to this hill after wedding Goddess Valli at Vallimalai, She implored Him to enlighten Her on the importance and greatness of this hill. In reply, our Lord said that if one worshipped Him with heart and soul for five consecutive days in this hill temple, that person would be blessed with all that is best in this life and hereafter.

In Treta Yuga, Lord Rama, after putting an end to Ravana, worshipped Lord Siva at Rameswaram, at whose request Rama came to Tiruttani and found perfect peace of mind by worshipping our Lord Subrahmanya here. In Dwapara Yuga, Arjuna got the blessings of our Lord here by offering prayers to Him on his way to the South for Teertha Yatra (pilgrimage to take sacred immersion). Lord Vishnu prayed to our Lord at this place and got back His powerful Cakra (sacred wheel), Shanku (sacred conch), which were forcibly seized from Him by Tarakasura, brother of Soorapadma.

Lord Brahma propitiated our Lord here at the holy spring (by the sides of the steps to the shrine) known as Brahmasonai after his imprisonment by our Lord for his failure to explain the Pranava ('Om' mantra) and got back his creative function of which he was deprived by our Lord due to his egotistic impudence in neglecting to worship Lord Subrahmanya on his way to Mount Kailasa to worship Lord Siva.

Abode of Lord Tanikesan: Tiruttani Hill (background) and Saravana Poikai tirukulam (foreground). Photo: S. Subramaniyam

Lord Indra planted and reared in the pool known as Indrasonai adjoining this hill temple the rare plant known as Karunkuvalai, which gave three flowers a day and worshipped our Lord thrice daily with these flowers and , thus, got back the precious wealth of Deva Loka such as Sanghaneeti, Padmaneeti, Chintamani, etc seized by the asura titan.

Nanda Devi worshipped our Lord here on the bank of the Nandi River and got His peerless initiation to realize the unique relationship between the soul (jeevatma) and God (Paramatma), which is the quintessence of Saiva Siddhanta philosophy, the choicest product of the Dravidian intellect according the pioneering dravidologist Dr. G.V. Pope.

On worshipping our Lord at Thanikai, the king of snakes Vasuki got his bodily wounds healed, which had been caused during the churning process in the Milky Ocean to secure the Amrita (nectar of immortality) by the devas and asuras when the Mantotra Mountain was used as the churning base and the snake king Vasuki as the rope. Sage Agasthyar Muni (of Potikai Hill) worshipped our Lord at Tanikai when he was blessed with the rare divine gift of the ever-sweet peerless Tamil language, the beauty of which has been extolled by all the great saints and poets of Tamil Nadu.

Literary Importance

Apart from the puranic greatness of Tirutanikai, Saint Arunagirinathar, the illustrious devotee of Lord Muruga who lived 600 years ago, praised this hill as the chosen place for worship by devas and the favorite abode of saints performing prolonged tapas (austerities). He also compared this hill to Sivaloka (Bhuloka) and as the very soul of the world. Saint Ramalinga Swamigal (Arutprakasa Vallalar), who lived 150 years ago, was invited to come here by our Lord of Tanikai (seated on this hill) Who appeared before our saint in the mirror of his puja room at Madras after which the sour-stirring arutpa songs flowed from his lips in chaste Tamil like a torrential stream.

Śrī Muttuswami Deekshitar, who lived 200 years ago (one of the trinity of Karnatic music) had his inspiration in Tiruttani when our Lord (in the guise of an old man) met him on the steps and sweetened his tongue with the prasadam of this temple, which impelled him to sing his first song -- of course -- on Lord Murugan of Tanikai. Many a miraculous event takes place at this shrine from time to time by the grace of our Lord. Oh, how grand and glorious is our Lord Tanigesan on this sacred hill of ancient fame and name!

Specialities of Tiruttani

Saravana Poikai

The sacred tanks of the shrines of our Lord are all known as Saravanapoikai ('sacred pond of the reedy marsh' where Lord Karttikeya was born). The tank at Tiruttani, which (unlike in other places) is at the very foot of the hill, is particularly renowned for its sacred water (teertham) having curative effect for ailments both bodily and mental, as it is rich in minerals such as sulfur, iron, etc. A bath in this holy tank refreshes the devotee and makes him hale and healthy to propitiate our Lord with faith and devotion.

Sapta Rishi Teertham

At the lovely garden on the south side of this sacred hill amidst a thick cluster of shady trees and seven cool sprints, the Seven Rishis (who today form the Great Bear stellar constellation) are said to have worshipped Lord Muruga and the Sapta Kannikas (Seven Virgins) enshrined at this place in a tiny temple.

On the outskirts of the Tiruttani town, on both sides of the Nandi River, are the ancient temples of Lord Vijayaragama Swami, Arumuga Swami and Veerateeswarar, the latter two of which are

more than a thousand years old. In the temple of Arumuga Swami, there is soorya puja every year for three days in March when the rising sun is said to worship our Lord by casting its rays upon the holy Feet of the deity on the first day, Breast on the second day and Head on the third day through a hold in the wall, which reveals the marvellous intellect of the architects of ancient days.

Festivals

Besides the monthly Krittikais which attract a large number of devotees to this shrine, the two outstanding annual festivals are the Aadi Krittikai and the 31st of December New Year Step Festival. The float festival is celebrated in the month of Aadi, Bhramotsavam in the month of Maasi, during which Valli Kalyanam is celebrated on the 8th day, and the Skanda Sashti is celebrated in the Tamil month of Aippasi.

Aadi KrittikaiAadi Krittikai festival (in July-August) lasts for three days with Float Festival when lakhs and lakhs of devotees come to this holy place from far and near. The streets are thronged to the full. About one lakh and fifty thousand flower kavadis (which increase with each year) are offered to the deity. The sight of the devotees who carry them, uttering the sacred and inspiring "Haro Hara!" (Hallelujah) as they march and dance in long rows touches the very core of our hearts and makes us spellbound. One should see it to believe it.

December 31st Step FestivalWhen the old (Gregorian) year is rung out and the New Year sets in (ie at the stroke of midnight on December 31st each year), lakhs of devotees are present on the sacred Tanikai hill to have the darshan of their Lord. They come to Tiruttani to offer their heart-felt prayers to our Lord on that day and night to be blessed with peace and plenty during the New Year.

This festival came into vogue during the British Raj when the famous Vallimalai Swamigal persuaded his followers to offer their homage first to Lord Tanigesan, the giver of all good, and only then to their official bosses. On this day, numerous bhajana parties gather and ascend the hill, singing the melodious Tiruppugazh songs and burning camphor on each of the hill's 365 steps, one for each day of the New Year.

The entire atmosphere is filled with the music of these devotional songs, which is a feast to the eyes and ears. The sight of the Vel Kavadi taken to the shrine by some devotees on this day with the thin, sharp ends pricked and pierced all over the body above the hip (in spite of which they carry it with ease and grace) inspires and elevates our thoughts to adore our Lord for His mighty, marvellous and miraculous powers.

Devasthanam Amenities

The following amenities have been provided by Tiruttani Devasthanam for the benefit and convenience of the public:

Ghat Road for easy and speedy access to the temple with Devasthanam buses and vans plying the route;

Self-contained, well-furnished Devasthanam cottages and rooms within easy reach of the temple;

Kalyana Mandapams for performance of marriages; Kalyana Utsavam (wedding ceremony) may be performed for a nominal fee; A Golden Car (Thanga Ther) 18 feet in height guilded with nine kilos of gold and crafted with

exquisite craftmanship may be taken out and pulled in procession around the temple upon payment;

Pure cow's milk (for abhishekam) and other puja articles are sold at the Fair Price Shop; Publications, calendars, rosaries and souvenir momentos are availble for sale; Palliyarai Puja (to obtain His Grace in divine slumber) may be performed. On payment of a lump

sum, the puja will be performed in perpetuity for one day each year from the accrued interest. Orphanage and Karunai Illam for poor, parentless boys who are given free meals, lodging,

clothing, public education and other facilities; Śrī Subramanya Swami Government Arts College at Tiruttani supported by Devasthanam

donations; Siddha Vaidya Dispensary; and Dr. S. Radhakrishnan Library on the site of his birth in Tiruttani town.

Nattukotta Chetty Chattiram

Muruga bhaktars who wish to stay in a traditional chattiram (pilgrim's rest) may stay at Nattukotta Chetty Chattiram (just above the Tiru Kulam). Accommodations are basic however; bring your own bedding. Ask for Mr. Muniyappa -- and consider making a modest donation when you leave. Nattukotta Chetty Chattiram is closely associated with Valli Malai Tiruppukazh Asramam and the Vallimalai Satchidananda Swamigal Tiruppukazh Sabha.

Pazhamutircolai is situated 19 kilometres from the temple town of Madurai. The place is full of natural beauty and sylvan surroundings. This hill is also known as Vrishabhadri or Idabagiri. At the foot of the hill is situated Azhakar Kovil, which is one among the 108 divyadesams sanctified by the hymns of Azhwars sung in praise of the Vishnu enshrined in this temple. Atop the hill Lord Muruga stands majestically in the temple as the Lord of the Hills popularly known as Kurinji Nilakkizhavan in Tamil. The temple of Pazhamutircolai can be reached by a motorable road leading to the hill.

Pazhamutircōlai is mentioned as the sixth of Lord Murugan's Āru Patai Vīdukal, the six holiest Murugan shrines described by Cankam poet Nakkīrar in his poem Tirumurukārruppatai. Regarding the identity of the sixth major site, there is no consensus among scholars and many local temples are ascribed the distinction. Most scholars, priests and devotees identify Palamutircōlai with the shrine of Palamutircolai, twelve miles north of Madurai in the Alagar Hills, above the Alagarcoil Vishnu temple. While this temple is not as large or bustling as the other five recognized shrines, it is just as incredible to visit.

This shrine is located on the northern outskirts of Madurai in a pleasant wooded hill not far from Alagar Visnu Kovil, a fortified temple complex revered as one of the 108 abodes of Vishnu

glorified by the hymns of the Alwars. At the top of the hill, is Noopura Ganga, a perennial waterfall with a temple dedicated to Rākkayi Amman. The Nūpura Ganga atop the hill is said to originated from the anklet of Tirumal or Visnu and hence the name of the spring. It is said that sitting in the madavi mandapa near the spring Ilangovadigal wrote one of the five mahakavyas in Tamil, viz., Cilappatikaram. Even today the place is very fertile with many trees and different flora and fauna, a standing testimony to the vivid description of the place's natural beauty as found in Tirumurugattruppadai of Nakkeerar.

Though the sthala is of ancient origin, the temple as in existence today was constructed only recently. From days of yore Vel has been worshipped as the moolavar or main deity. The idol of Lord Muruga in a standing posture has a single face and four hands with Valli and Teyvayanai on both sides. The Vel made up of stone is of special significance and is worshipped with a great veneration by devotees.

The sthala vriksha is a rose apple tree. The fruits of this tree ripen during Skanda Sashti festival. The temple that was in existence during Sangam period no longer existed in Arunagirinatha's time. The recently constructed temple is considered as Pazhamutircolai and worshipped by the devotees. It is needless to say that it is one of the six abodes of Lord Muruga very extensively praised and described by Nakkeerar in Tirumurugatruppadai.

Arunagirināthar also reveres this shrine in his Tiruppukal. Arunagirinatha sang 16 Tiruppugzh psalms to Pazhamutircolai Muruga. Though one might be in possession of all types of wealth, if he wants to lead a healthy life bereft of any disease he should necessarily visit Pazhamutircolai. Arunagirinatha very emphatically says in the most unequivocal terms that Lord Muruga should come before him running to bless each and everyone with health and wealth as has been very clearly described in the Tiruppugazh psalm.

Not far from Palamutircōlai south of Madurai is another of the Āru Patai Vīdukal, Tirupparankunram.

Enterance of Alagar Vishnu Kovil, Madurai.

Entrance Madurai

Text courtesy of Vellayapettai Ra. Krishnan. See also Gallery of Āru Patai Vīdu paintings