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Apparel Manufacturing in the U.S.A: Cultural and Technological Journey
John Martynec Curt Clark
SVP Mfg Director Mfg
Southwick Apparel
Our Operations
• 150,000 square feet
• 500 employees, 130,000 suits per year
• Mass customization business on a lean journey
Our Mass Customization Environment
• Hundreds of operations
• Complex routings with simultaneous flow
• Diverse work force
• Even more diverse product variations
• Multiple product constructions each week
• Order sizes from 1 to 1000 units
• 260+ standard minutes Labor
Content
• 230+ operations Operations
• Cycle times 0.2 to 7 min
• 100’s of constructions Variability
High Labor Product
Our Objectives
• Less than two week order completion time
• 95% labor efficiency
• 90% utilization of materials
• 20:1 direct to indirect labor ratio
Our Approach
• Technology for accurate data and measurement
• Improved flow and controls
• Incentivize flexible behavior
• Continuous on the floor coaching
• Norm-setting to the customer and cleanliness
• VSM for identifying improvement opportunities
Technology
• Software for engineered standards
• Shop system for tracking performance and flow
• RFID for visibility and component pairing
• Web based order entry for custom products
• Body scanning technology direct to consumer
Accurate Standard Data
• Use of video and MTM software
Provides Value Add Ratio
42% Value Add 58% Non Value Add
Standard Data in Shop Floor System and Product Routing
Operation Description SAM/Unit
06260100 SEW SHLD AH TAPE 1.0860
06300700 PRSGRE&PNLW/CUTF 1.2688
06601600 SET BRST WLT PKT 1.1120
06700400 MIC.WELT PKT 1.0830
06760100 PRS BRST WELT PK 0.7336
06800200 MARK LWR POCKET 0.3162
06850400 SET POCKETS 1.2134
06860100 TURN/TCK PK BESM 1.4824
06880300 PKT FIN PIPINPKT 2.6056
06950900 PRESS POCKETS 1.4811
07000100 PAIR CANVAS 0.2017
07030100 PR CANVAS-TRACK 0.0000
07050100 BST 1/2CANVS FRT 2.2790
Detailed Measurement of Performance and Waste
Excess Costs Paid is Pure Labor Waste
Every $100 labor dollars paid, not more than $12 waste
Body Scanning
MTM Product
Reduction in Error
Direct to Consumer Potential
Improved Flow and Controls
• Linear visual production flow
• Trays that prevent over stacking
• Limited tray racks per department
• Kan Ban calculations
Flow in Old Building C
UTT
ING
PR
ESSING
AN
D
FINISH
ING
FRONTS
FACINGS
ASSEMBLY
BACKS AND
COLLARS SLEEVES
TROUSER FRONTS &
BACKS
TROUSER ASSEMBLY
FRONTS
FACINGS
ASSEMBLY
BACKS AND
COLLARS SLEEVES
TROUSER FRONTS &
BACKS
TROUSER ASSEMBLY
Flow in Old Building
Improved Flow and Controls
FRONTS
FACINGS
SLEEVES
BACKS AND COLLARS
COAT ASSEMBLY
PR
ESSI
NG
AN
D
FIN
ISH
ING
C
UTTIN
G
TROUSER FRONTS
TROUSER BACKS
TROUSER ASSEMBLY
Improved Flow and Controls
Improved Flow and Controls
Improved Flow and Controls
Calculated KAN BAN
• With safety factors from operation cycle ratios
• K = ((RT * AC)/CONT) * (SF + C)
Ratio Base Table
Ratio PCT OCT
0.10 1 10
0.20 1 5
0.25 1 4
0.33 1 3
0.50 1 2
1.00 1 1
2.00 2 1
3.00 3 1
4.00 4 1
5.00 5 1
Incentivize Flexible Behavior
• Guarantee earnings for secondary skills
• Bonus for working multiple skills each week
Continuous Coaching and Norm-
Setting • Constraint management and work balancing
• Audit and inspect product and equipment
• Reinforce right behaviors
• Correct wrong behaviors
VSM for Improvements
• Use engineered and actual data
• Combine operations to reduce handling
• Relocate batch operations to in line stations
VSM for Improvements
3↓ FTE 75% ↓ in lead-time
Thank You!
Please complete the session survey at:
www.ame.org/survey
Session WP/27
John Martynec
Golden Fleece Manufacturing
