Clothes made in the home, some homes even producing the raw
materials such as cotton. Custom-made-clothing fitted specifically
to the wearer
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1910 a blouse and skirt were sewn together to make the first
RTW dress Ready to wear clothing made in factories to standardize
measurements. 1910 a blouse and skirt were sewn together to make
the first RTW dress
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Pret-a-porter (pret-ah-portay) French term for ready to
wear.
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Garment District- Seventh Ave. (Fashion Ave.)
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It had a large pool of cheap, immigrant labor. It was located
near textile producers in New England and the South It was a port
city Garment District Seventh Ave (Fashion Avenue) WHY DID NYC
BECOME THE CENTER OF THE GARMENT INDUSTRY?
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Unionization 1900 ILGWU- International Ladies Garment Workers
Union 1909-1910 strikes paved the way for collective bargaining
1911 Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire -146 killed led to strict
building codes and protective labor laws
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FIRE AT THE TRIANGLE FACTORY The Triangle factory, at Greene
Street and Washington Place near the New York University law
school, made shirtwaists, or womans blouses. The blouse and skirt
was the uniform of the truly modern woman. Unlike corsets and
hoops, the shirtwaist was practical, and appropriate for the
factory.
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The fire occurred at the end of the day on March 25, 1911, as
workers were getting ready to leave. Some were primping for dates
that evening, others had stopped to chat with friends on their way
out. As was customary at Triangles closing time, some doors were
locked: Management wanted all the workers to leave by the same
exit, so their bags could be checked for stolen goods. Many workers
deaths were attributed to these locked doors. In all, 146 people
died. Some burned to death, while others jumped to their deaths to
escape the flames
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Today 35 hr 5 day work week, paid vacations, health, welfare
and pension programs LOOK FOR THE UNION LABEL
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CREATION OF WOMENS APPAREL Developing a line Collection
expensive line
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SEASONAL LINES Spring Summer Transitional (Fall I) Fall (Fall
II) Resort/ Holiday
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Kate Spade Spring/Summer 2015
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Tori Burch Pre-Fall 2015
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Marc Jacobs Fall/Winter 2014-2015
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Design Concept- Sketch developed on muslin Sample hand-
designers assistant, seamstress Design Concept- Sketch developed on
muslin Sample hand- designers assistant, seamstress
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Computer Aided Design (CAD) Computer image design
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Producing a line Production begins when a sample pattern is
created and presented to retail buyers at manufacturers seasonal
shows. Orders are placed or dropped.
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Cutting Graded or Sloped developed from the sample pattern,
adjusted to meet dimensional requirements of each size.
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Marker A long piece of paper upon which the pieces of the
pattern of a garment in all its sizes are outlined and which is
placed on top of many layers of material for cutting purposes.
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The layers of material are placed accurately by a spreader.
After pieces are cut, they are bundled Bundling pattern pieced tied
into bundles according to their sizes
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Sewing- Most American manufacturers are using off-shore
production- the manufacture of American goods in cheap labor
foreign countries
Slide 25
TYPES OF PRODUCERS Manufacturers Apparel Jobbers Contractors
https://youtu.be/k6-OhLNAEPY
Slide 26
Manufacturer performs all the operations required to produce
apparel, from buying the fabric to selling and shipping the
finished garment. Advantage close quality control can be
maintained.
Slide 27
Apparel Jobbers- handles the designing, the planning, the
purchasing, usually the cutting, the selling, and the shipping, but
not the sewing operation.
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Contractor is a producer whose sole function is to supply
sewing services to industry. It is sometimes called an outside
shop.
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MASS PRODUCTION Section work or piece work each sewer sews only
a certain section of the garment such as a sleeve or hem.
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QUICK RESPONSE A strategy used by manufacturers to shorten the
ordering cycle to compete with foreign imports
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TRADITIONAL BASIC CATEGORIES Outerwear coats, jackets Dresses
Sportswear and Separates After- five and evening Suits Bride &
Bridesmaid attire Blouses Uniforms & Aprons Maternity
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SIZE RANGES Womens Misses Juniors
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SPECIAL SIZES Petites Large Size Maternity
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PRICE ZONES Designer (highest prices) Bridge Better (medium-
high prices) Moderate (medium prices) Budget (lower prices)
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Tommy Hilfiger, Jones New York Designer Bridge Better
Levi-Strauss, Jessica Simpson, American Rag, Budget Moderate
Slide 38
Off-price apparel stores- the selling of brand name and
designer label merchandise at lower than normal retail prices. EX:
Marshalls, TJ Maxx
Slide 39
MARKETING OF WOMENS APPAREL Advertising Womens Wear Daily W
Vogue, Harpers Bazaar
Slide 40
Trunk Shows- A form of pre-testing that involves a producers
sending a representative to a store with samples and exhibiting
those to customers at announced showings.
Slide 41
Trunk Shows give the designer or manufacturer the opportunity
to meet customers in the store and obtain an on- site reaction to
the line and promote sales
Slide 42
Publicity Supply celebrities with cloths Fashion Shows and
Press Weeks.