1965-66 E2 Body Kit Installation Instructionsheadlight doors, housings, headlight buckets, grill panel, and stone deflector. The hood latch and support bracket should be removed for

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1965-66 E2 Body Kit Installation Instructions

Thank you for purchasing the 1965-66 E2 Body Kit! Identify that you have everything you ordered. The kit itself contains Your choice of hood (six styles), headlight buckets, upper nose (new version one piece, one piece upper nose), lower nose, front fender flares, side exhaust skirts, rear fender flares, lower side scoops, upper side scoops (fastback only), and a spoiler trunk w/end caps. Billet grills can be purchased separately or in one of the convenient kits we’ve put together. Minor scratches and even small cracks from transportation can easily be remedied when the finishing work begins.

#1 Begin by removing the entire front of the car back to the fenders. The valance, bumper, guards and brackets, headlight doors, housings, headlight buckets, grill panel, and stone deflector. The hood latch and support bracket should be removed for ease of installation. The vertical hood latch support bracket is eliminated in this process. The hood latch plate will regain support when the billet grills are installed upon completion of the install. Remove the hood and trunk lid including end caps. Remove interior quarter panels. If you intend to gain tire clearance, it’s important to roll the fender lips before you begin the installation. There are several methods for doing this so consult a body man if you’re doing this yourself. On the rear fender lips, if you detach the wheelhouse from the quarter panel, you must weld this back to the wheelhouse as this is a structural part of the unibody. Extra room for more tire on the inside of the rear can be accomplished by using our inner wheelhouse notching explained here.

#3 Install the lower nose. Hold the apron in place and mark and drill the holes on the rear to mount in the stock locations. You can use your existing hardware for this portion of the install. Adjust the bodylines and continue.

#4 The upper nose requires a bit more attention. It’s important to note, you can save time on the install by cutting and re-using your stock buckets. Since most are broken or damaged, we offer pre-cut metal ones to replace the existing.

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#5 After installation of the buckets.

#6 Continue by a pre-fitment check of the 1pc upper nose. Some flexing is necessary to align with fenders.Drill out holes around headlights, mount with stock hardware.

#7 With the nose in place, that mean grin appears.

Cool Trick! We made the hole next to the headlight to accept a 2.5” diameter light. If you are concerned about using blinkers, we have devised a cool trick. Take the stock parking lamps from the stock lower valance. From the front, drill out the small rivets to remove the bulb socket from the chrome bezel. Take the bulb socket, add an amber bulb, back-up lamp lens and gasket, trim bezel and screw into the headlamp bezel next to the headlights. Plug back into the headlight harness and Bingo! You have cool aftermarket looking functional blinkers…

#8 Install the hood and make any necessary adjustments for fitment. It’s necessary to remove the stock springs and use either a light duty spring or a prop rod. When you get to the point of sanding for the finish, it’s important to not sand through the gel coat. Use the “skin coat” technique with putty so the finish remains smooth and the structural integrity of the hood will be retained.

#9 Installation of the lower side scoops can be done in several ways. First, just mark and drill the holes, and bolt them on. The next method is the way we recommend. It requires a bit more work but the scoop will literally become part of the car.



#10 Test fit the side scoop. We decided to bond on the side scoops using Norton Speed Grip. NSG is a urethane-bonding adhesive that remains flexible, can be sanded, feathered and painted. So the use of traditional fillers that can crack can be avoided. Apply wax paper to the car surface area where the scoop contacts the car.

#11 If you plan to use kit # MR-380 and make the side scoops functional and plan to use our side scoop grills # TZ-2307-FFPP , it’s important to mark the area “not to cut” on the top and bottom of the scoop opening with the grill in place so you have a surface to rivet the grill onto. Please note, when making these functional on a coupe or convertible, it will render the rear quarter window inoperable.

#12 Add short strand fiberglass filler to the inside perimeter of the scoop and press fit to the car to create a bonding surface.

#13 Sand the bonding surface just created with 80 grit. Speed Grip needs a good tooth for maximum bonding efficiency. You can apply scotch tape to the body at this point to catch the excess filler if you’re going for the attached look.

#14 Apply adhesive to both surfaces.

#15 Press the scoop to fit. Smooth any excess into the contact point to create a smooth look.

http://www.mustangdepot.com/OnLineCatalog/Fiberglass/e2ls.htm

http://www.mustangdepot.com/OnLineCatalog/Fiberglass/e2ls.htm



#16 Sand and feather the scoop for paint. This bonding method can be used also on the flares, side skirts, or where ever you decide to bond the fiberglass to the metal.

#17 Install the side skirts using jack stands, mark for drilling. If you’re going for functional exhaust, we recommend marking and cutting the outer rocker to make room for the exhaust tip. It’s recommended that you fill in the area exposing the inside rocker to minimize environmental affects. We find it best to rivet the skirt on the underside of the rockers. Also cut a “U” shape in the bottom of the skirt so the tip can pass through once installed.

#18 Installing the flares can be done by the bond-on method just explained in the side scoops, or by using bolts. Consideration should be given for tire clearance. If you’re going to be running a large diameter rim and tire combination, and intend on lowering the car, we recommend the bond on method. We are showing the bolt on method here to show you the different options.

#19 Pre check the fitment of the flare and find the best place to run the bolt through the quarter panel and wheelhouse. Using a carriage bolt and flat washer sand the surface of the flare where the adhesive will be applied and the head of the bolt. Apply the adhesive and secure while drying.



#20 Mark and drill the flare for attaching. The same method can be applied to the four corners of the car using this bolt on method, or the previously mentioned bond on method.

#21 The trunk lid should be installed using the stock hinges and latch. The tension rod should be removed so there is no distortion of the fiberglass lid when closed. Leave the trunk lid loose on the hinges for the end cap installation. Keep in mind fiberglass trunks are thicker and may require movement of the hinges to get the proper fitment. If you’re not familiar with the hinge adjustments, contact a profession body man for assistance. Install the end caps by marking and trimming them to fit. This contact surface between the end cap and the quarter panel is the edge that is cut out of the mold. So by the simple nature of the manufacturing process, these will always require trimming to fit! For a more extensive look at end cap installation click here.

#22 Trim to fit with a rotary sander and gusset the holes on the quarter panel as needed. In some extreme cases, you may have to remove and re-mount the end cap bolts for proper fitment.

#23 Align the body panels and snug bolts to secure.

#24 Fiberglass rear bumpers can be installed without any bolts visible using the same bonding technique discussed here with Norton Speed Grip. Start by mounting and grinding the stock bumper brackets.

http://www.mustangdepot.com/graphics/endcaps.pdf



#25 Fit the bumper and pre-drill holes.

#26 Apply bonding adhesive to both surfaces. Don’t forget to sand the backside of the bumper with 80 grit before applying the adhesive.

#27 Use sheet metal screws to hold in place.

#28 After the adhesive dries, remove the bumper from mounts inside the trunk. Grind off the alignment screws and prep for filler.

#29 After the filler is applied the smoothed bumper can now be primed and remounted for paint.

#30 Here’s the view from the rear. If you’re interested in going with the 1968 cal special lights part #68-STLK in the rear, click here for detailed installation directions.

http://www.mustangdepot.com/OnLineCatalog/images/Electrical/68-stlk.jpg

http://www.mustangdepot.com/graphics/68stlk-inst.pdf



#31 Lower fog light installation. Here’s the view from the rear. If you glass in a small flat bracket, you can bolt the

lights onto that bracket, wire and you’re done!

We appreciate your support and hope you enjoy all the new looks going down the road! Some tips and

tricks follow on the next page! Special thanks to Kevin Tetz from Paintucation for the install

pictures. Thanks to Marc Schillero and Eric Grigley for sending in pictures of their cars.



Tips and tricks for your installation and finishing the look!

Q. What lights can I use on the lower middle apron for my E2 Kit? A. We have both the small lights next to the lower center grill, and the center driving lights here fog lights. Also consider Tri-Bar headlights. Q. Can I use the E2 front apron without using the upper nose and fender flares. A. Yes, the E2 apron is similar to the racing aprons in that they can be used with the stock upper nose area. However there will be slight contouring of the spoiler where it meets the wheel well. Click here for a picture of one installed without the flares Q. I have a 1966 Mustang Coupe, can I use your # MR656 GT Hood w/ the Sinister Front End (Upper and Lower Assembly)? If so, can you confirm the part numbers I would need. A. Yes you can use any stock dimension hood with our kit. Either the FS-ELN2-UN3 or FS-ELN2-UN5. You can save $200 by cutting out your buckets from the stock headlight housings. Then the FS-ELN2-LN (lower nose)... This will need slight trimming and contouring for use without flares. Pretty straight forward! Q. Does the Sinister Stang have the same size wheels and tires in the front and rear? A. No. The fronts are 17x8 with a 4.5 inch backspace, The rear is 17x9 with a custom 5" backspace. Click here for more info on our set-up. Q. Do the E2 flares work with rolled fender lips? A. Yes if you're bonding or bolting them on! Q. Does the Sinister Stang have the fender lips rolled? A. Yes. They're rolled on the front, and it's modified heavily in the rear on the inside wheelhouses and outer fender lips. Click here for more info on the wheelhouse mod Q. I know the E2 rear flares are 1.75", but do they give you 1.75" of extra tire clearance, assuming, of course, that your rear leaf springs don't squat too much? A. The flare measurement is directly horizontal. The amount of flare you use will depend on how you install the flares. If you bolt them on or bond them without cutting the fenders/quarters, you will not gain anything. If you mold them in and eliminate the fender/quarter behind, you can make full use of the flare. If you end up cutting behind, make sure it's done professionally due to the nature of the unibody. Especially in the rear! Q. What rearend are you running with your 5" backspaced wheels that does not come into contact with the leaf springs? (Versailles?) A. This is a stock 1965-66 9" overall rear end width of 57.25"". The Versailles rear is wider 58.50". They are close to the springs but if you run the recommended Pan Hard Bar, and modify the lips and wheelhouses, you'll be fine. Here's a link to the wheelhouse mod documented. Q. Couldn't you run a wider rear tire considering the fact that you're running 1/2" more backspacing than I am and you have flares? A. Assuming you have a stock rear end width, the backspacing is only half the battle. The width of the rim in relation to the backspace is how much it will go out toward the fender. We're running a 9" rim. The 5" backspace would make the tire rub on the outside if wheel lips were not modified extensively. There was also a significant amount of massaging that was required to the inner wheelhouses so the 275 tire did not rub on the inside. Naturally, without modifications, the tire would sit about 1/4" from the front of the inner wheelhouse. Q. What are the widest 17" wheels and tires you could use in the rear with the E2 flares in your opinion? A. Basically what we are running 17x9 with a custom 5" backspace with a 275x40x17 tire. The 5" backspace would make the tire rub on the outside if wheel lips were not modified extensively. There was also a significant amount of massaging that was required to the inner wheelhouses so they did not rub on the inside. A Pan Hard Bar is highly recommended! Q. Same question as No. 8 with respect to the front? A. 17x8 with a 4.5" backspace. 225x45x17 or a 215x45x17, 1 degree negative camber and about 1 degree positive caster. A 4.75 BS is more favorable on the front. Q. What tires fit that do not require modification to the lips and/or wheel houses? A. The 17x8's fit all the way around with either a 4.5" or a 4.75 inch backspace. Here is a wheel chart that other people have tried and succeeded in running larger diameter tires on 1965-66 Mustangs. Wheel Chart Q. Can the light housings that the little lights next to the headlights mount to, be purchased separately? A. Unfortunately the light buckets are part of the Upper Nose Assembly. These parts are designed to be molded together to become a one piece upper nose. You can save money if you cutout and use the buckets from your original housings to mount the headlight adjusting

http://www.mustangdepot.com/OnLineCatalog/Electrical/fog-lights.htm

http://www.mustangdepot.com/OnLineCatalog/Electrical/headlamps.htm

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http://www.dodgestang.com/Tire Fitment Guide 65-6.pdf



assembly to. Q. Can I eliminate certain parts of the body kit if I already have a fiberglass hood, and spoiler trunk? A. The kit prices cannot be broken apart. The items would have to be purchased separately.

Q. Do you recommend bonding them at all and if so what bonding agent do you recommend? A. We do not recommend the smoothed out look with the exception of the side skirts. On Sinister, we left the flares and side scoops looking attached. Sinister Side shot Q. Do you just bolt or rivet the pieces on and leave it that way or do you add some type of body filler to blend the fiberglass to the metal? A. It's not recommended to go the mold in look but if you insist on this method, you should use Norton Speed Grip. Q. If you do add some type of body filler, what do you recommend?

A. Again Norton Speed Grip is a urethane bonding adhesive that remains flexible but you can still sand and feather it. It is a paintable material and we haven't found a dual function bonding agent/body filler that can compete. Q. I am also curious about what you do about the difference in thermal coefficient of expansion between the metal and fiberglass after the car is painted? A. This is why we recommend the bond on method still looking attached. You will never have the problem of cracks with our suggestion with the exception of the side skirt. Q. Do you have any templates for areas such as the tail light installation, exhaust tip cut out on the rocker panel, side scoop bolt holes, etc?

A1. Unfortunately we have not have templates. Many people just do things their own way. Especially body shop guys. As for the tail lights, the bezel is the template. If you follow our instructions for the tail light install, you're good to go. Tail Light Kit Install A2. It's a good idea to rivet the bottom of the skirts on while bonding. If you plan on running functional side exhaust, you want to cut the outer rocker area prior to attaching the skirts.

The cut should be a little larger than the hole opening of the skirt. You will want to trim the pinch weld down there as well for the extra clearance. Having the tips in hand will help with the fitment issues. Last, it's a good idea to weld the fender to the rocker right below the front of the door jam to limit the fender flex and help to prevent cracking of the skirt to the body. This is a shot of the a custom run exhaust since the TCP center section will not allow our Dr Gas kits to work properly. It's required that you cut out the bottom of the skirt to allow the tip to pass through as shown in this picture. You can see the bottom has been removed as seen through the hole opening. It's also required, when using the E tips with the Dr Gas side exhaust kit, that you modify either the tip or the exhaust exit tube coming from the muffler, to work with the Dr Gas kit. This is because they are not designed in conjunction with one another and the only tip available, the E tip, fits the opening of the skirt perfectly. A3 The bolts on the back of the scoops are pretty easy to line up. You can use them in the bonding process or just get a fast cure Speed Grip and hold them in place.

Q. How do you attach the 2.5 in. fog lights in the racing apron? A. The driving lights have a small bracket screwed to the light housing. You basically fiberglass the bracket to the backside of the tube still leaving the light screwed to the bracket. This will allow you to unscrew the light and remove if needed in the future. Another method is to fiberglass some adjustable stereo brackets to the back side of the apron to mount the light brackets to!

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Documents

1965-66 E2 Body Kit Installation Instructionsheadlight doors, housings, headlight buckets, grill panel, and stone deflector. The hood latch and support bracket should be removed for