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SOUTH AFRICAN JEWELLERY NEWS
The industry's only trade journal
NO
VEM
BER
201
5
R36,00 (incl VAT)
Colourful styling in Hong Kong The world of pink diamonds
De Beers: overall consumer demand as strong as last year
The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, its members, the publisher or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, the editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. SA Jewellery News© 2015. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publishers. ISSN 1817-5333.
Official Journal of the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa. Website: www.jewellery.org.za
Banking Details: Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC Bank: Standard Bank, Sandton, South Africa Branch Code: 01-92-05 Current Account Number: 4209 6822 9
SA Jewellery News is published by:
Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC
PO Box 651793, Benmore 2010
Johannesburg, South Africa
27 Panners Lane, Riverclub, Sandton, South Africa
Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627
Fax: +27(0)11 783-2677
Website: www.isikhova.co.za
Editor: Adri Viviers
E-mail: sajewellerynews@isikhova.co.za
Watch Editor: Alice Weil
E-mail: aweil@mweb.co.za
Advertising Sales: Linda Stock
E-mail: adsales@isikhova.co.za
Designer: Joanne Brook
E-mail: joanne.studio@isikhova.co.za
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E-mail: subscriptions@isikhova.co.za
Chief Executive Officer: Andrew Meyer
Chief Financial Officer: Imraan Mahomed
Printing: Colors
Titan, the world’s fifth
largest watch manufacturer,
is proud to announce the
launch of the Automatic
2015 collection. The 90034
design has an automatic
movement with 21 jewels,
unidirectional auto winding
and manual winding. It features a stainless steel
case, genuine leather strap, butterfly clasp and
domed sapphire-coated mineral glass. It is water-
resistant to 5 ATM. Contact Luxco Importers on
tel: (011) 448-2210 or visit www.luxco.co.za for
more information.
On the coverSOUTH AFRICAN JEWELLERY NEWS
The industry's only trade journal
NO
VEM
BER
201
5
R36,00 (incl VAT)
Colourful styling in Hong Kong The world of pink diamonds
De Beers: overall consumer demand as strong as last year
De Beers: overall consumer demand as strong as last yearas strong as last year
c ntents
21. BRAND MANAGEMENT• Watch nominations for prestigious event
• Wrist candy from Rado
• A grand collection
• Cartier re-invents the crown
• Rare vintage pocket watch auctioned
• New Classic Moonphase created
• Inspired by the love of music
7. NEWS• Red carpet Forevermark jewellery at Jewellex Africa
• CIBJO releases first Blue Book devoted to coral
• Fancy vivid pink diamond to list at Christie’s for US$23-28 million
• De Beers: overall consumer demand as strong as last year
• Trollbeads announces 2015 People’s Bead winner
14. INTERNATIONAL FAIRColourful styling in Hong Kong
16. BRAND HISTORYFrench watchmakers – an innovative spirit
18. GEMMOLOGYThe world of pink diamonds
28. LITTLE GEMSA gem of a town
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2015
RED-CARPET FOREVERMARK JEWELLERY AT JEWELLEX AFRICA
The De Beers Group of Companies, sponsor
of the Diamond Pavilion at Jewellex Africa
2015, showcased a select array of Forever-
mark red-carpet jewellery at the event on
27 October.
The array of exceptional Forevermark
diamonds have graced red carpets and
high-profile events around the world, ap-
pearing on women praised for their beau-
ty, talent and poise. These include Kate
Winslet, Kate Hudson, Sienna Miller, Kristen Stewart, Dakota Johnson,
Jennifer Garner and Margot Robbie.
As a licensed distributor of Forevermark in southern Africa, Caratco
also created a Forevermark red-carpet collection named “La Dolce Vita”
in order to build brand awareness. South African celebrities such as Bo-
nang Matheba, Terry Pheto and Tanya van Graan have worn exquisite
pieces from this collection, which was also part of the Forevermark red-
carpet jewellery at Jewellex.
Every Forevermark diamond undergoes rigorous selection, as less
than 1% of the world’s diamonds are worthy of the unique Forever-
mark inscription, which is an assurance that the stone meets exceptional
standards of both beauty and rarity, and is responsibly sourced.
Also on display at the show was a selection of Forevermark com-
mercial jewellery, including the Forevermark global design collections,
the Forevermark Setting, Encordia and Cornerstones, as well as a bridal
collection created by Caratco for the local market.
BHARAT DIAMOND BOURSE “WITHIN ITS RIGHTS” TO BAN TRADING IN SYNTHETIC DIAMONDS Responding to the decision of the Bharat Diamond Bourse (BDB) to ban
the trading of synthetic/laboratory-created diamonds, World Federation of
Diamond Bourses (WFDB) President Ernie Blom says each WFDB-affiliated
exchange is within its rights to decide on its policy on the issue.
“Each of our member bourses has full decision-making powers re-
garding which types of diamonds can be bought and sold within its
premises, as long as the decisions are made in line with the WFDB’s
regulations,” says Blom. “We’re not opposed to trading in synthetic/
laboratory-created diamonds and accept that there could be a market
for them. We only insist that such stones are fully disclosed so that the
trade and consumers know exactly what they’re being offered. This is
critical in ensuring consumer confidence.
“The BDB’s decision aims to ensure the growth of the natural diamond
trade, strengthen consumer confidence and promote faith in diamonds.
These are aims the WFDB fully supports.”
In a statement regarding its ban, the BDB said that at its 31st annual
general meeting on 28 September 2015, “a resolution was proposed to
declare that no person or organisation shall promote, trade in or carry
synthetic, laboratory-grown or man-made diamonds within the premises
of the BDB. Only ‘natural diamonds’ may be traded there. The resolu-
tion was approved by an overwhelming majority of the members and was
passed in its entirety.”
Last year, the Israel Diamond Exchange announced that it was banning
trading in synthetic diamonds on its trading floor.
To advertise in our jewellery publications, contact Linda Stock on tel: 011 883 4627 or e-mail: adsales@isikhova.co.za
NEWS
CIBJO RELEASES FIRST BLUE BOOK DEVOTED TO CORALCIBJO, the World Jewellery Confederation, has
released online its latest Blue Book, delineating
acceptable trade practices and nomenclature
for the coral industry and trade. The document
was compiled by the CIBJO Coral Commission,
headed by Commission President Enzo Liverino,
under the auspices of CIBJO’s Sector A, which
has jurisdiction over gem materials.
The new Blue Book is comprehensive, clas-
sifying both non-treated and treated corals, as
well as artificial products that imitate and/or
include coral elements. Normative terms which
should be used to describe coral and disclose
treatments are listed, as is the terminology
that should be applied to define associated ar-
tificial products. Methods of maintaining the
quality of coral jewellery are provided and the
various types of different precious coral spe-
cies are itemised.
Because of the unique nature of coral,
which is an organism grown in nature without
human intervention, the Coral Book includes
references to the Washington Convention on
International Trade in Endangered Species,
which entered into force in 1975 to address
concerns that many living species were becom-
ing endangered because of commerce between
countries. The document also outlines national
and regional regulations promoting the sustain-
able harvesting of coral.
The Coral Book is the sixth in the Blue Book
series and joins the definitive sets of grading
standards and nomenclature for diamonds,
gemstones, pearls, precious metals and gem-
mological laboratories. Each is compiled and
updated by relevant CIBJO Commissions,
whose members include representatives of
trade organisations and laboratories active in
the industry.
The Blue Books represent a consensus de-
rived from the broad expertise on the subject
within each commission, as well as from out-
side individuals who have expressed an inter-
est in participating in the development of the
guidelines. In the almost complete absence of
jewellery industry standards endorsed by the
International Standards Organisation (ISO), the
CIBJO Blue Books are the most widely accepted
set of globally accepted standards.
“The Coral Blue Book is an additional tool
developed by CIBJO to ensure ethical business
practices and transparency in the jewellery busi-
ness,” says Gaetano Cavalieri, CIBJO President.
“It focuses on a sector that operates in a very
fragile eco-environment, where proper stand-
ards and methods of operation are absolutely
essential. I congratulate Enzo Liverino and his
colleagues on the Coral Commission not only
on their vision and efforts, but on the contribu-
tion they’ve made to our industry.”
“Although coral’s been featured in jewel-
lery for millennia, it remains a product that’s
not widely understood,” says Liverino. “Apart
from creating common sets of standards, prac-
tices and nomenclature, our goals in producing
the Coral Book included addressing important
issues of environmental responsibility and sus-
tainability which are specific to coral.”
“This is an important document that’s pro-
vided a proper framework and set of references
for the coral sector, corresponding to those
that have been established for other sectors in
our industry,” says Roland Naftule, CIBJO Vice-
president and President of Sector A. “However,
its release is just the first stage in an ongoing
journey. Each Blue Book is a living document
that’s reviewed and updated constantly.”
In addition to the Coral Book, CIBJO’s
Sector A recently released online the updated
editions of the Diamond Book, the Gemstone
Book and the Pearl Book.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2015
TROLLBEADS ANNOUNCES 2015 PEOPLE’S BEAD WINNERFor the seventh consecutive year, Danish jew-
ellery brand Trollbeads asked its fans to help
design a new bead for the ever-growing col-
lection of beads that fit the original beads-on-
bracelet concept. The company received sev-
eral thousand unique designs from which 100
finalists were chosen. The fans then voted for
one winning design.
The designer behind the 2015 People’s
Bead is Amanda White, born in Bucking-
hamshire, UK, in 1976 – the same year the
Trollbeads story began. The winning design,
Tropical Travels, combines three tropical flow-
ers symbolising the joy of travelling.
“My love of nature and exploring new
destinations inspired me to design this bead,”
explains White. “Whenever I travel, I discover
something new. On one vacation, I found my-
self walking through a tropical garden. The ar-
ray of flowers and foliage fascinated me. I was
particularly drawn to the plumeria [frangipani]
and the hibiscus flowers, which were in full
bloom. Their vibrant colours and delicate pet-
als left a lasting memory.”
DIAMOND INDUSTRY HAS REASON FOR OPTIMISM ABOUT HOLIDAY SEASON World Federation of Diamond Bourses Presi-
dent Ernie Blom believes the global diamond
trade can be positive ahead of the upcoming
holiday sales season due to recent events.
He notes that initial indications from the
September Hong Kong Gems & Jewellery Fair
are that it is solid. Meanwhile, price cuts by De
Beers and Alrosa are bringing prices of rough
diamonds down to more realistic levels. In ad-
dition, much-needed reductions in polished
production have been carried out, particularly
by the Indian manufacturing sector.
“There’s reason to be optimistic, even
though conditions do, of course, remain chal-
lenging overall,” says Blom. “Due to the global
nature of its exhibitors, buyers and visitors,
the Hong Kong show is a useful barometer of
industry sentiment, so it’s very promising that
demand at the event was stable.
“On the rough supply side, we’ve seen
the world’s two main producers – De Beers
and Alrosa – take meaningful steps to reduce
prices. Alrosa said it would cut prices by up
to 10% at its September sale. That followed
De Beers’ decision to reduce prices by simi-
lar levels at its August Sight. The producers
have accepted our arguments that diamond
manufacturers simply can’t be expected to
pay such high prices for rough at a time of
falling polished prices. I believe we need to
see a further reduction in rough prices, but
these moves are encouraging and we expect
to see the trend repeated at other diamond
sales and tenders.”
Blom adds that the decision by many dia-
mantaires to hold off on manufacturing will
help put a firm floor under prices. “We had a
situation where there were simply too many
polished goods on offer. Now that some ma-
jor players have cut production, there’ll be
lower levels of polished inventories and possi-
bly shortages in some items. I believe this will
lead to a rise in business transactions.”
Regarding the all-important consumer de-
mand for diamonds and diamond jewellery,
Blom says: “The World Diamond Mark contin-
ues creating alliances with leading companies
to help build generic marketing of diamonds.
While the situation remains far from easy,
these developments give us reason for opti-
mism in the coming months.”
SOTHEBY’S TO OFFER THE US$35 MILLION BLUE MOON DIAMONDSotheby’s will present the extraordinary Blue
Moon Diamond, one of the largest known fan-
cy vivid blue diamonds, as the centrepiece of
the auction of Magnificent Jewels and Noble
Jewels in Geneva on 11 November this year.
This exquisite diamond weighs 12,03ct and
has been graded fancy vivid blue – the highest
possible colour grading for blue diamonds – by
the Gemological Institute of America (GIA).
The cushion brilliant-cut stone also boasts ex-
ceptional clarity, having been declared inter-
nally flawless by the GIA. This stunningly rare
stone comes to the market at an estimated
price of US$35-US$55 million.
David Bennett, worldwide Chairman of So-
theby’s International Jewellery Division, says:
“The Blue Moon diamond is a sensational stone
of perfect colour and purity, combined with a
superb cushion shape. Blue, for me, is the most
magical of all the colours of diamonds and the
Blue Moon will now take its place among the
most famous gems in the world.”
13SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2015
NEWS
DE BEERS: OVERALL CONSUMER DEMAND AS STRONG AS LAST YEARIn its recently-released Diamond Insight Report,
De Beers announced that India represents a
growth opportunity for the global diamond
production pipeline. Indian diamond industry
stakeholders do not share this outlook, how-
ever, pointing to a lack of promotion in their
country (and around the world) that has led to
a significant drop in consumer demand.
With the Chinese economy now also in
difficulties and a slump in oil prices having
taken the pith out of Middle East and Russian
demand, the diamond production pipeline is
faced with the prospect of having to make it to
the end of this fiscal year with only the Ameri-
can market to support it.
However, De Beers Group CEO Philippe
Mellier says: “Indigestion in the midstream
and downstream has impacted rough dia-
mond demand this year, despite consumer de-
mand for diamond jewellery being stable on
the levels seen last year.”
On the other hand, one prominent Indian
diamantaire notes: “Production’s been down
by up to 40% over the past six months and
we’re still struggling to sell our goods. Unless
there’s something to promote and push sales,
there won’t be any growth.”
De Beers, meanwhile, has highlighted the
fact that diamond demand grew 3% in 2014
to exceed US$80 billion for the first time. It
notes that these figures represent “the fifth
consecutive year of growth since the global
recession”, adding that rough diamond pro-
duction rose 6% to US$19 billion in 2014.
The mining major also remains optimistic
about this year, saying that despite last year’s
strong performance, the continued strength
of the US dollar and lower demand growth in
China, global growth in US dollar terms will
remain stable on 2014 levels.
De Beers’ optimism about India as a
growth market is based on general economic
indicators. Writing about the country’s out-
look for diamond demand, it notes:
• Driven by a widening consumer base,
economic development and increasing vol-
umes, India’s diamond consumer market has
achieved almost uninterrupted growth over
the past 20 years. It is now one of the world’s
largest consumer markets.
• The retail landscape is changing. Chains are
set to grow in significance and lead the way
in online development, both as a sales chan-
nel and as a means of researching future pur-
chases. Brands are also becoming increasingly
important for Indian consumers as assurances
of quality and authenticity.
• As affluence continues to grow, more
Indian women will be able to purchase dia-
monds. Seventy-five million new Indian house-
holds are expected to see income rise above
US$5 000-US$6 000 in the decade, contribut-
ing to growing diamond demand. Meanwhile,
the number of elite households is expected to
triple over the next decade to 12 million, while
the super-elites are expected to quadruple in
size and reach over three million households
by 2024, presenting the industry with a fur-
ther growth opportunity.
However, other industry stakeholders note
that no matter how much affluence grows in
the country, the problem is the lack of initia-
tive to interest consumers in diamonds.
“The challenges faced by the sector in 2015
are expected to be short-term and the indus-
try has excellent prospects,” says Mellier. “The
long-term trend for demand has been positive,
with consistent growth in demand for diamond
jewellery since the 2008/9 financial crisis. There
are also further exciting growth opportuni-
ties in the main consumer markets and India’s
a great example of this. Already one of the
world’s largest markets for diamond jewellery,
the growth of the middle class in India over the
next decade is set to make a major contribu-
tion to growing diamond demand.”
FANCY VIVID PINK DIAMOND TO LIST AT CHRISTIE’S Christie’s is to put up for sale what it describes
as “the largest cushion-shaped fancy vivid pink
diamond ever to be offered at auction”, valued
at US$23-28 million.
The 16,08ct diamond is set in a ring and
surrounded by a double row of pavé white
diamonds, with a third row of small pink dia-
monds underneath. The band comprises small,
circular-cut white diamonds set in platinum.
The stone shows no trace of secondary colour.
It will be presented for auction from 10
November at the inaugural Magnificent Jewels
auction in Geneva and is expected to break re-
cords for diamond sale prices.
In 2009 Christie’s Hong Kong sold the
Vivid Pink, a cushion-shaped fancy vivid pink
diamond of 5ct, for US$2,16 million per carat,
which is still the world auction record price
per carat for any pink diamond.
Rahul Kadakia, International Head of Jewel-
lery at Christie’s, says the diamond has come
to market “at a time when great gems are mir-
roring prices achieved for masterpieces in the
world of fine art. Collectors are looking to jew-
els as savvy investments that are both beautiful
and can appreciate considerably in value over a
relatively short period.” – Rapaport
14 SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2015
INTERNATIONAL FAIR
There was bling, flash, dazzle and glitz a-plenty – but
also plenty of class and high quality at the Hong Kong
Watch & Clock Fair (HKW&CF), the world’s largest
timepiece fair which opened on 8 September in the
Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre looking out
directly onto beautiful Victoria Harbour. Martin Foster
reviews industry movements at this year’s event.
THE 34TH HONG KONG WATCH & CLOCK
Fair featured 780 exhibitors from China, Hong
Kong and 23 countries and regions includ-
ing Bermuda, Denmark, Lebanon, Russia and
Spain, making it the largest trade fair of its
kind in the world. Overall, the number of Swiss
Colourful styling in Hong Kong
brands at the event was double
that of 2014, with more than 40
brand exhibitors demonstrating
that the Swiss now want to sell
more aggressively into China.
Prince Jewellery & Watch Co
exhibited major brands includ-
ing Audemars Piguet, Blancpain,
Breguet, Chopard, Franck Muller,
IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Omega, Pan-
erai, Piaget, Vacheron Constantin and A Lange
& Söhne from Glashütte.
In addition, Switzerland’s watchmaking ex-
pertise was promoted at two new pavilions:
Swiss Eminence, featuring brands such as Cyma,
Enicar, DOXA and Sultana, and Swiss Independ-
ent Watchmaking, featuring timepieces by Char-
riol, Pilo & Co, Rebellion, Traser and WATCHe.
Every year, Chinese watch producers show
a growing understanding of how to compete
against the finest European luxury
makers in terms of quality and fin-
ish. “China Made” continues to
grow and we should never un-
derestimate Chinese skill with
decorative bevelling, polishing
and finishing, which are now
part of the established pattern
of high-end manufacture. At the
2015 Hong Kong fair, we espe-
cially noted the speed of change
and advances in sophistication
and artistic subtlety.
Although the Chinese don’t have the heritage claims of the Swiss, their history is nevertheless developing its own gravitas.
15SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2015
INTERNATIONAL FAIR
Colourful styling in Hong KongThis accelerated change was
reflected in a speech by China’s
President Xi Jinping to Ameri-
can business leaders: “I believe
that from a long-term perspective,
China’s economic fundamentals are
good. We’re working to create a new
open economic system, push forward
reform of foreign investment manage-
ment and greatly reduce the restric-
tions on foreign investment. China
will greatly strengthen the pro-
tection of intellectual property.”
For the sanity of the luxury
watch industry, all brands hope
this fight against fakes and cop-
ies will come sooner, rather than
later. Then again, given the new
Swiss policies on parts restriction
and monopolistic avarice, some have
argued that at least one can have a fake
repaired in a reasonable time and at a reason-
able price.
Although the Chinese don’t have the herit-
age claims of the Swiss (very few of whom can
actually withstand close scrutiny), their history
is nevertheless developing its own gravitas.
For example, today Beijing Watch is producing
tourbillons, double tourbillons, minute repeater
tourbillons and double 90° tourbillons – very
fancy stuff indeed which demands closer
attention by serious buyers. Rest as-
sured, current prices will not withstand
the upward pressure exerted by Swiss
luxury brands – which, in turn, will
open up wonderful market op-
portunities for these very fine
Chinese pieces.
Note, in particular, that the
average export price of watches
out of China (all categories) is only
US$3, which contrasts starkly with the
average export price of US$791 out of
Switzerland. A market adjustment of this
enormous discrepancy is inevitable.
Hong Kong brands are highly re-
garded on the mainland, despite
the fact that they are all manu-
factured in southern (mainland)
China and after an export/im-
port/export round-robin through
Hong Kong, watches return to
China labelled "Made in Hong
Kong". Today, however, there is no
watch manufacturer in Hong Kong.
The major tool manufacturers were
at the fair, such as Bergeon, Witschi and, of
course, Chinese makers, but these exhibitors
only have real relevance at the event for Asian,
Hong Kong and mainland Chinese buyers.
Plan a visit to the colourful HKW&CF for
yourself, provided you’re a trade visitor. The
staff are courteous and friendly, the range is
enormous and the ingenuity and excellence of
the timepieces are breathtaking.
(Above, from top): The Swiss Independent Watchmaking Pavilion provided economical exposure for contemporary mid-dle-of-the-range Swiss watch producers; the Swiss Eminence Pavilion provided economical exposure for established brands from middle-of-the-range Swiss watch producers
(Left, from top): Memorigin Ref MO 1223, 28 800 v/ hr, with 155 parts, 18 jewels, 12 diamonds on the dial and exquisite dragon embossment, a co-axial tourbillon at 6 o’clock rotation of 60s, a 40-hour power reserve; Kairos produces the world’s first hybrid mechanical smartwatch. Time functions are pro-vided by a self-winding mechanical calibre and the watch func-tions come via the accompanying Kairos app on iOS, Android or Windows Phone, Kairos hybrid mechanical smartwatch and Kairos T-Band. Connected with a health app and partnered with the integrated movement sensors, the watch becomes a robust activity tracker powered by Misfit®, tracking steps, calories, sleep, heart rate and sweat levels.
(Far left, from left): Garmin’s “Vivoactive” is a lightweight GPS smartwatch which comes with built-in running, biking, golfing, swimming and activity tracking apps. It can be used alone or paired with a smartphone for incoming call and mes-sage notifications. The design is American; Elegantsis exhib-ited its JT61 Cockpit Chronograph. The arresting colour of the dial, coupled with the metallic feel of the inner rim and finely designed markers, combine with the amazing electroplated black of the casing to enhance the watch’s overall appeal
16 SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2015
BRAND HISTORY
an innovative spirit French watchmakers: THE FIRST CLOCKS WERE PLACED
in the high towers and belfries of
large French and European cities,
as the system of weights and pul-
leys used for their functioning required a long
drop. Miniaturisation of this system was the
precursor of things to come. It was manifested
in the work of Dutchman Christian Huygens,
who lived part of his life in Paris and in 1657
produced the pendulum clock.
This was followed by the first balance
spring mechanism in 1675 and Huygens’ in-
ventions gave a tremendous boost to Parisian
watchmaking. Paris and Rouen were impor-
tant centres of watch production in the 17th
century. However, the Edict of Nantes – which
outlawed Protestantism – was a serious blow
to the well-educated French and many of the
watch profession chose exile in England, Hol-
land, Germany and Switzerland to continue
their work. This factor eventually created stiff
competition for the French.
Nevertheless, sumptuous decoration of
French clocks and watches remained superior
throughout the second half of the 17th and
the early 18th centuries through renowned
watchmakers who found solutions for techni-
cal problems. These innovators included Jan-
vier and Abraham-Louis Breguet, the latter
best known for his predecessor of the modern
luxury watch.
During the middle of the 19th century,
the French sold great quantities of watch
movements to the Swiss. A French watchmaker
named Japy was the first to build modern
factories for mass production.
France rapidly adapted to the preference
for wristwatches, rather than pocket watches,
after World War I and produced very fine
movements before and after World War II.
The 1980s heralded the so-called quartz
revolution, but France adapted to this new
wave of technology by making the necessary
adjustments to its production process and
filling in less competitive gaps in the market
through the sale of high-quality components.
Its watches were distinctive and had unusual
features in their design – for example, brands
like Beuchat and Pierre Lanvier. There was
also renewed production of mechanical
movements from Pequinet, Christian Bernard,
Saint Honoré and Michel Herbelin.
The latter brand found a ready market in
South Africa when it was introduced in the
late 1980s and early ’90s. The company was
founded in 1947 by the watchmaker of that
name in the French Jura mountain village of
Charquemont, near the border of Switzerland.
Following Herbelin Senior’s innovative spirit
in 1972 were his sons Jean-Claude and Pierre-
Michel. The company’s headquarters and fac-
tory in a quiet, tree-lined street are in the shape
of a long, sleek vessel, emphasising the brand’s
association with the ocean. It was the sea which
inspired Michel Herbelin: his love of sailing was
well-known and his private yacht was moored
on the French Riviera.
The French have had a long list of achievements in watchmaking since the early years of the industry. New time-keeping methods in the 13th century were numerous and improved accuracy, using inventions which succeeded the former unscientific methods. The development of the escape mechanism was a predecessor to the modern watch.
France rapidly adapted to the preference for wrist-watches, rather than pocket watches, after World War I.
It was also he who instituted the brand’s
iconic range, Newport, named after the New
England town in the USA which is a Mecca
for sailors, famous for yachting races and the
home of the international America’s Cup. It is
reported to symbolise the American Dream – a
concept brought to the product line. The design
was also inspired by a ship’s porthole, while the
cable motif provides the finishing touch.
The brand maintains fine watch traditions
and is one of the leaders in its market segment
in France, with an international market sold in
50 countries worldwide.
18 SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2015
GEMMOLOGY
The October 2015 issue of SAJN looked at the impact of auction sales, the geology of the Argyle mine and Argyle pink diamonds’ testing and value. In this issue, Branko Deljanin, Dr Adolf Peretti and Matthias Alessandri look at the historical review and characteristics of non-Argyle pinks and the screening for natural and synthetic diamond types.
Historical review and characteristics
of non-Argyle pinks
After India’s major production of diamonds be-
gan in the 17th century (including rare, large
Golconda colourless and pink diamonds), Bra-
zil was the next primary source for colourless
and coloured diamonds, including rare pink
stones originating from the panning of gravel
in Brazilian rivers in the 17th century and until
the present. It was in one such small river that a
boy found a red 13,90ct diamond crystal while
swimming. In 1990, the crystal was subsequent-
ly purchased by William Goldberg Diamond Corp
and cut to produce a 5,11ct fancy red, the largest
of its kind. In 2001, it was purchased by Mous-
saieff Jewellers for $1,8 million per carat and re-
named the “Moussaieff Red”. Originating from
approximately one gram of carbon that turned
red as the result of the right combination of
pressure and temperature, the stone is currently
valued at over $20 million. One of the authors
(Branko Deljanin) had a chance to see this rare
stone while working in New York.
Many other pinks have been mined in the
past 100 years from special carrot-shaped mag-
matic rock called kimberlite (central and South
Africa, Russia and Canada). The following are
known sources of pink and purple non-Argyle
diamonds and their claim to fame regarding im-
portant stones, in historical order:
• Indonesia (Borneo-Kalimantan): More pink-
ish-brown, oldest diamond mining from riv-
ers, starting in the 16th century.
• India (Golconda): 186ct, light pink, the “Dar-
ya-I-Nur”; Golconda – the 34,65ct “Princie”
Fancy Intense pink diamond sold in 2013 for
$39 323 750; the 28,15ct “Agra” pink dia-
mond – from kimberlite in the 17th century.
The world of pink diamonds
tern” under cross-polarised filters (CPF), without
showing any fluorescence or only a faint reac-
tion under UV lamp. Natural type lla diamonds
may be extremely large and of high clarity, but
normally contain some graining. Pink diamonds
from Central Africa, Canada and Siberia tested
at GRS labs also do not show fluorescence under
the LW UV lamp and have very different “fin-
gerprints” in spectra (impurity positions) when
tested with advanced instruments (UV-VIS, FTIR
and PL spectrometers), so it is possible to distin-
guish them from Argyle pinks.
In 2014/15, GRS and CGL_GRS labs compiled
an impressive database of all current major pink
diamond-producing countries using standard
and advanced instruments. Production from new
sources will be tested as they become available.
Screening for natural and synthetic
diamond types
Approximately 97% of all natural diamonds
are considered type la, with the presence of
nitrogen (N). These can occur in all colours,
including purple and pink. One percent of all
diamonds are orangey-yellow to brown type lb,
while less than 25% are type lla colourless, pink
or light brown. Type lla and llb diamonds are
the rarest of diamonds due to the absence of
nitrogen impurities, but type llb stones contain
boron and are therefore blue.
Synthetic diamonds are created using either
high pressure, high temperature (HPHT) or carbon
vapour deposition (CVD). Nowadays, sizes from
0,50-1,50ct are common. These processes can
produce near-colourless type lla, yellow type lb,
pink type lb or lla (after annealing and irradiation),
and blue type lla (new GRS research – see http//
www.gemresearch.ch/news/2013-11-07_Blue-
Diamond/CVD-BlueDiamond.pdf), as well as type
llb. As such, knowing the approximate diamond
type is a great help in the initial screening of dia-
monds. Some instruments, like the type lla dia-
mond spotter developed by SSEF, are not enough
to identify possible synthetic or treated origins of
diamonds. It can only screen if a diamond is trans-
parent to UV and if it is low in nitrogen, indicating
a type lla, llb or a rare type laB.
Visually, natural and synthetic diamonds
can look very similar when comparing size,
cut, colour and clarity. Their commercial values
differ significantly, however, which highlights
the importance of detection and disclosure.
For example, coloured synthetics can easily cost
50-60% less than their natural counterparts.
In the case of colourless lab-growns, the price
difference is around 30-40%.
The CPF method is relatively simple and in-
expensive to set up, and only requires a set of
two linear polarisation filters (or a portable po-
• Brazil (Minas Gerais): The 5,11ct “Mous
saieff Red” in 1990 – from rivers in the 18th
century until now.
• SA (56,90ct, the Fancy Vivid Pink “Pink
Star”) – from kimberlite in the late 19th cen-
tury until now (the lace mine in SA in 2015).
• Venezuela (Santa Elena) – pink diamonds
found in rivers in the 1920s until now.
• Tanzania (the 23,60ct “Williamson Pink”,
flawless) – in 1947 from kimberlite.
• Congo (Katanga Province – Kasai, a mixture
of brown and pink) – from rivers in the mid-
20th century.
• Russia (Siberia – Mir, mostly purple dia-
monds) – from kimberlites in 1950s until now.
• Canada (north-west territories – Diavik
mine in 2003, pinkish-purple diamonds, and
Northern Ontario – Victor mine in 2006,
light pink) – from kimberlite, for the past
10 years.
• Lesotho (23,82ct pink rough diamond from
the Kao mine) – in 2014 from kimberlite.
It is interesting to note that some diamonds
from different countries (like Russia and Can-
ada) have very similar characteristics regarding
colour (more purple than pink) and gemmologi-
cal characteristics (no fluorescence, type la), in-
dicative of the similar geological environments
in which they were formed.
“Pink-coloured diamonds are rare, especially
in Canada. I’m thrilled, on behalf of the Ontario
government, to present this 2,74ct pink diamond
as the first pink diamond from the De Beers Victor
mine, cut and polished in Ontario,” says Michael
Gravelle, Canadian Minister of Natural Resources.
Pink diamonds of type lla (like the 59,60ct
Pink Star) could be much larger than Argyle pink
diamonds and have a characteristic “tatami pat-
19SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2015
GEMMOLOGY
fluorescence under UV light.
Gerald McGuire, President and CEO of the
Scio Diamond Technology Corporation, says:
“SDT routinely makes rough gems in the 3-5ct
range and along with our joint development
partner, Renaissance Diamonds Inc, we are de-
livering 1-2ct finished gems. Scio Diamonds an-
nounced a joint venture with partners in China
to produce CVD-grown diamonds at a much
lower cost. Scio Diamonds is currently produc-
ing high-quality lab-grown pink diamonds that
are priced reasonably and within the reach of
many customers who favour pinks.”
A rosy future
These days, consumers are very conscious of
product origin. In addition to demanding Fair
Trade coffee, there has been a growing inter-
est in knowing where coloured diamonds are
coming from. Dealers and jewellers should both
be ready to provide the answer. It is reported
by Partnership Africa Canada, an active mem-
ber of the Kimberley Process, that diamonds
(including pink diamonds) from Venezuela
(Santa Elena, on the Brazilian border) are ille-
gally transported to Brazil and Guyana, and ex-
ported further through the Kimberley Process
chain. These authorities are asking to exclude
Brazil and Venezuela from the Kimberley Pro-
cess if they cannot halt the illegal transport of
diamonds from their territories. Rio Tinto Dia-
monds in Australia and Canada is following all
the rules implemented by governments regard-
ing tracking its diamonds, and it is believed that
consumers are willing to pay an extra premium
in order to know that their diamonds are com-
ing from those conflict-free countries. Many
labs, including GRS Lab (Hong Kong) Ltd, have
joined the Kimberley Process.
Gemmology is evolving and more advanced
instruments are being used in gem labs for rou-
tine testing of diamonds and coloured gems.
The most widely used methods for separation of
natural, treated and synthetic diamonds are opti-
cal methods (absorption and photoluminescence)
that are used in gem labs to identify these stones.
Representatives from GRS and CGL-GRS labs and
other researchers on coloured and synthetic gems
and diamonds will present their findings at the
second Mediterranean Gemmological & Jewel-
lery Conference in Valencia, Spain, next year.
Finally, it is possible to separate natural pink
diamonds from all categories of treated and/or
laboratory-grown diamonds, loose or mounted,
of any size, by using a combination of standard
and advanced gemmological instruments.
– Reprinted with permission from InColor,
Spring 2015, Issue 28
grown diamonds were made in Russia by New
Diamond Technologies in February 2015.
Twenty years ago, when these lab-grown
diamonds entered the market, they were small
and included (Sl1-l2) and it was easy to sepa-
rate them from natural stones based on trian-
gular metallic incisions. But growing technol-
ogy improved and over 70% of HPHT-grown
diamonds are VS or better clarity. Luckily, due
to irradiation treatment, HPHT-grown pink dia-
monds have a characteristic, strong orangey-
red reaction under both LW and SW UV light
and this is a good screening technique to pick
up these stones, even from parcels of melee
pink diamonds or mounted stones. These dia-
monds are grown in a relatively short time in
very stable, controlled environments and will
not show any pattern (stress) under CPF.
Characteristics of CVD-grown diamonds
In 2014, GRS and CGL-GRS reported on a new
generation of Orion PDC Hong Kong pink
CVD-grown diamonds of much more “natural-
looking” fancy colours of all sizes (orangey-pink
and purplish-pink) and higher clarity (VVS-VS)
that are in the market. They are harder to
identify than HPHT-grown pink diamonds using
standard gemmological instruments. In this
clarity range, it is not possible to distinguish
them from pink natural diamonds by simply
using a loupe or microscope. In some CVD
stones, black inclusions (assumed to be non-
diamond carbon) are visible and when located
in one plane perpendicular to the direction
of growth, they are a reliable indicator of
the diamonds’ CVD origin. Blackish, irregular
clouds that are found in this CVD-grown pink
diamond from PDC are also a reliable indicator.
All new pink-coloured CVD samples are type
lla, very low-nitrogen diamonds. Observed be-
tween CPF, they produce two general patterns: a
natural-looking pattern similar to the “tatami pat-
tern” of type lla natural diamonds and a “colum-
nar pattern” typical of CVD-grown diamonds.
A quick screening of loose and mounted
pink diamonds is possible by using UV illumina-
tion in a dark room. A strong pinkish-orange
(LW=SW) reaction is observed in type lla pink
CVD-grown diamonds.
In cases where the diamond is determined
to be a type lla based on the “tatami pattern”,
it is important to refer it to an advanced lab
to determine whether the colour is natural,
treated or the stone is CVD-grown. After an
initial screening with standard instruments,
most pink diamonds should be tested with ad-
ditional spectroscopic analysis to confirm their
synthetic origin, because multi-step treated
natural diamonds can also show strong orange
lariscope) that are attached to any microscope
or portable light source. To use the CPF meth-
od, position the suspected diamond between
the CP filters and rotate it in transmitted light
to observe birefringence patterns (“strain”). In
combination with the simple CPF method, the
fluorescence technique can be used to screen
for diamond types and help identify a possible
synthetic origin of a coloured diamond.
The procedures explained here are rela-
tively simple, easy to learn and inexpensive.
A CPF set and UV lamp costs about $500. In
the light of several occurrences of salted par-
cels of undisclosed diamonds reported in the
past few years, vigilance and an understanding
of gemmological tools are critical to ensuring
confidence in the supply line. CGL-GRS offers
workshops on the use of standard instruments
in screening for natural, treated and synthetic
diamonds. The next one will be held at the sec-
ond Mediterranean Gemmological & Jewellery
Conference in Valencia, Spain, from 5-7 May
2016 (visit: www.gemconference.com).
Synthetic diamond producers such as AOTC
Canada (HPHT-grown) and Scio Diamonds
USA (CVD-grown) increased their production
of pink diamonds by 5-10% over the past five
years to meet higher consumer demand for
more affordable, but still colour-stable pink lab-
grown diamonds.
GRS and CGL-GRS labs acquired pink CVD-
grown diamonds from a new producer – Orion
(PDC), Hong Kong – and compared them with
pink diamonds of different origin from our re-
search collection that includes natural pink dia-
monds from Argyle, natural pink non-Argyle dia-
monds from six different locations, CVD-grown
plus irradiated and annealed pink diamonds by
Scio Diamonds USA, HPHT-enhanced, irradi-
ated and annealed natural pink diamonds, HPHT-
grown and irradiated pink diamonds by Chatham
USA, HPHT-grown and irradiated diamonds by a
Russian producer, HPHT-grown and HPHT-grown
and irradiated diamonds by AOTC, Canada.
Characteristics of HPHT-grown diamonds
AOTC, Chatham and Gemesis employ a
traditional temperature gradient method
to grow their stones. The capsule contains
“seeds” and metal-based material that will
act as a solvent for the graphite and a catalyst
to enable crystal growth. Nitrogen enters the
growth capsule, making most of the synthetic
diamond yellow, but it could be irradiated to
produce a pink colour or nitrogen could be
“removed” to produce colourless stones. The
majority of synthetic crystals are 1-4ct, or 0,50-
2,0ct once they are polished. Even diamonds
as big as 5ct polished, near-colourless, HPHT-
21SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2015
BRAND MANAGEMENT
Cartier re-invents the crownIt may have seemed straightforward to cre-
ate a form based on a perfect circle, but for
the concept of Clé de Cartier timepieces, this
proved a challenge.
However, subtlety and restraint –
shapes are pared down and reduced to
their essence – as well as precision,
balance and proportion were
the solution. The Swiss watch-
maker has a history of creating
inventive crowns and its new-
est collection, Clé de Cartier,
upholds that heritage. This is
the watch’s most distinctive
feature, as is the inspiration for
its name.
“Clé” is the French word for “key”
and the crown’s resemblance to a key
is unmistakable.
Based on the early traditional
turning of a key to wind a clock, the
size and dimensions of the crown make it
easy to activate and it is an object in its own
right. Elongated and pure, it is adorned with
a sapphire ingeniously inserted to remain flush
with the metal surrounding it. This new winding
mechanism has been especially developed to
be user-friendly. It incorporates a system that
makes setting the time remarkably simple. After
making the necessary adjustment, the crown
can be pushed back with ease, returning
it to its vertical position without moving
the hands. The act of turning the
crown and pushing it back creates
a gentle clicking sound.
The shape of the case is
unconventional, based on
a simple circle. It appears
ovoid at first glance, rather
like a pebble and somewhat
similar to a few watches from
the 1960s and ’70s. However,
the details of the architecture are
remarkable. Its elegant contours along
the curved, horn-shaped lugs and
case-back hug the wrist comfortably.
The design is available in case sizes of
40, 35 and 31 mm.
The movement is powered by a new Cartier
automatic calibre which has a power reserve
of 42 hours. The cutting-edge technology was
developed, manufactured and assembled in
Switzerland, drawing on the brand’s expertise
in watchmaking. Originally launched earlier
this year at SIHH as a unisex model, it is now
available in both men’s and women’s versions
in a choice of white, yellow and rose gold.
This new approach to timekeeping joins
the ranks of the brand’s Santos, Tank and Bal-
lon Bleu.
Inspired by the love of musicMusic has proved to be a long-standing source
of inspiration for a Geneva watch brand. This
is no doubt linked to its founder, Raymond
Weil, who was a passionate music-lover. The
brand has created new collections, each linked
to some form of music-making.
Weil’s grandson, Elie Bernheim, shares this
love of music, particularly the cello, which in-
spired the brand’s newest model, the Nabucco
Cello Tourbillon. This incorporates many of its
core values through the model’s haute horlo-
gerie finishes.
The watch has fine, clean-cut lines, creating
a striking contrast with the gentleness of the
musical instrument that inspired it. It embodies
a clever intertwining of components which
evoke the theme of the cello and enlivening
the mechanical hand-wound movement.
Both sides of the watch case are fitted with
sapphire crystals, ensuring transparency and
precision. For example, the movement bridge
supporting the tourbillon escapement and
mainspring barrel take the form of the instru-
ment’s distinctive F-holes, while the slender
hands are shaped like a cello bow and the five
lines of a musical stave are represented in the
grooved bezel.
The model’s most striking features, however,
are the four tiny strings which are stretched
taut across the dial of the watch between the 9
o’clock and 3 o’clock positions, combined with
the F-hole shaped bridges to create the illusion
of a miniature instrument. These musical
elements of the mechanism were created in-
house by the brand’s Research & Development
Department, which was established in 1999.
The tourbillon cage makes major adjustments
through a compensatory element.
The lightness of the rotating cage of a tour-
billon skeleton watch echoes the steel and alu-
minium 46 mm diameter case, to whose black
PVD-coated sides carbon fibre adds the finish-
ing touch. The timepiece is set on a genuine
crocodile leather strap.
Each watch will be presented in a specially
designed box reflecting its musical elements
on a larger scale, echoing the quality and
craftsmanship of a traditional hand-made cello.
The luxury Swiss watchmaker has announced
yet another new product in collaboration with
Gibson brands, the fastest-growing ones in
the music industry. The forces combined to
create a special watch in a steel and titanium
case of 46 mm. The self-tuning Gibson SG
Standard provided additional inspiration and
this design re-invents them on the black dial.
The six grooves symbolise the six strings of
the SG Standard and display the Gibson logo
and iconic emblem at 12 o’clock. The case is
finished with a refined grey ceramic tachymeter
bezel. This self-winding chronograph has a 46-
hour power reserve and features 27 jewels.
The Nabucco range now spearheads the
Raymond Weil collections and showcases
the brand’s expertise in creating horological
masterpieces.
22 SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2015
BRAND MANAGEMENT
Watch nominations for prestigious event
New classic moonphase
Nominations for the prestigious annual Europe-
an Watch of the Year 2015 are well in progress,
with a large number of watch houses already
having named their entrants. The event is or-
ganised by the world’s leading luxury watch
magazine – the UK’s 0024 WatchWorld
– which this year is named “the Stock-
holm Edition”.
Each year, watchmakers, jewel-
lers and lovers of watches look
forward to this competition,
which is judged by a jury, as-
sisted by the magazine’s read-
ers and visitors to its website.
Of particular interest this
year is Hublot’s tribute to iconic
South African statesman and
human rights activist Nelson
Mandela and the legacy he left
to his family. The brand has unveiled
the Hublot classic Fusion House of
Mandela. The company and the de-
signer consider this an honour. Cre-
ated in 18ct gold, this timepiece is available
in a gents’ model in a 42 mm diameter case,
as well as a ladies’ version, its bezel set with
35 diamonds on a black alligator strap. This
special edition is limited to 95 pieces, symbol-
ising the number of years Madiba lived. The
dial features the token of the Mandela family,
a bee with outstretched branch, symbolising
the various branches of the clan.
Bell & Ross BR 01 Skull Bronze Tourbillon
brings to life a metal from pre-history fea-
turing a 46 mm square case in aged bronze,
the skull engraved, which has a hand-wound
A new Classic Moonphase timepiece of in-
house manufacture has been released by
Swiss manufacturer Frédérique Constant.
Since 2004, the company has been based in
ultra-modern premises of 2 973 m2 in Plan-
les-Ouates, Geneva, where it has created its
own timepieces. Each watch is hand-assem-
bled, checked and controlled at length by both
human hands and high-frequency machines to
ensure reliability.
This year the brand developed and intro-
duced its 19th calibre, the new FC715, for
which its designer has created a moonphase
complication. Visible on the outside is the
beautiful, classic and elegant timepiece and on
the inside is the highly technical and refined,
precision-made movement.
movement with four complications. These are
tourbillon, regulator, accuracy indicator and
power reserve. It is mounted on a distressed
brown alligator leather strap and combines
the sophistication of an exceptional mechani-
cal movement, a case reminiscent of
the past and the provocative symbolic
resonance of the skull. It will be pre-
sented in a box made of precious
wood which has at its centre a
glass dome, allowing admirers
to gaze on the legend and mar-
vel at this unique watch. The
timepiece was unveiled at
the Monaco Yacht Show in
September.
A watch made of 797 com-
ponents is the Zenith Academy
Georges Favre-Jacot, 575 of which
are required to make the fusée train
transmission of the highly complicated
movement. This is an anniversary, not
merely a birthday piece.
Parmigliani Fleurier unveiled
a new creation earlier this year
which was inspired by music.
Named the Tonda Tourbillon
Solo de Jazz, which refers to
the renowned Montreux Jazz
Festival, this timepiece proudly
bears the banner of this music
genre and has universal appeal.
Each piece of the marquetry on the
dial has to be adjusted with great precision
and there is no glue, joints or clearance between
them. It uses marquetry, a highly precise craft
and day dials with baton-shaped, dauphine
hands – single or double – and a night sky with
the moon and stars, adding a cosmic touch.
It has a 42-hour power reserve which drives
the moonphase, date, hours, minutes and sec-
onds, all adjusted by a single crown.
The sapphire crystal case-back reveals
the performance of the movement, which is
decorated with Côtes de Genève and has blue
screws and a gold-plated rotor. The watch is
set on a choice of black or brown alligator skin
and has a pin buckle with the Frédérique Con-
stant crest engraved on it.
This family-owned company is innovative in
all stages of the watch’s production process,
from the initial design to final assembly and
quality control.
which – unlike jazz – has no room for improvi-
sation and requires heightened sensitivity. The
artist must use each grain of wood to create the
harmonious background of the dial in muted
shades. The musician’s face is made from pear-
tree wood to represent the skin, walnut for the
natural effects of the folds of his shirt
and birch for the jacket. The trum-
pet is made of Ceylon lemon-
tree wood and boxwood. This
wealth of detail is mounted on
a strap of Havana brown alli-
gator with a rose gold buckle.
Other contenders for the
prestigious title of “Watch
of the Year” include Audemars
Piguet’s lap-timer with a mechani-
cal memory, a version of IWC’s Portuguese
design, Chopard, Jaeger LeCoultre and many
more. Watch this space!
In the tradition of the finest watchmaking,
the classic manufacture moonphase is pre-
sented in a 42,5 mm case in two versions –
stainless steel or rose gold-plated finish. The
silvered disc of the moonphase features night
25SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2015
BRAND MANAGEMENT
Wrist candy from RadoTimepieces in sumptuous chocolate brown high
ceramic constitute the new collection from
Rado, which it describes as “wrist candy”.
These models from the HyperChrome fam-
ily are one-of-a-kind from the brand, which
is known for its everyday elegance. It has
added three chocolate-coloured models: the
HyperChrome Automatic, the Hyper Chrome
Automatic Chronograph Tachymeter and
the Limited Edition HyperChrome Diamonds.
They come in three sizes and are coated in a
luminous earthen hue with chic rose gold-col-
oured accents.
They will remain objects of everlasting
beauty due to the brand’s high-tech ceramic
properties. The rich brown colour will never
fade, claims Rado. The range is scratch-resistant
and lightweight; while the innovative material
also adapts to the wearer’s body temperature
and is a new addition to the brand’s high-tech
metallic range.
The company – based in Lengnau, Switzer-
land – pioneered the inaugural black theme
decades ago, followed by pristine white and
then elegant grey, all with a metallic plasma.
It created consistent colours in its ceramic pro-
cesses – a factor which is notoriously difficult,
but it has mastered the art. Its latest innovation,
like the collection’s predecessor, is available in
both polished and matte finishes.
Rado is recognised globally for its imagina-
tive designs, which use revolutionary materials
in creating some of the world’s most durable
watches. These three cocoa-coloured models
are indicative of the brand’s pioneering spirit
and imagination.
Rare vintage pocket watch auctioned A rare vintage pocket watch that will forever
be a part of English history went under the
hammer at Sotheby’s auction sale in London
during September. More than an exquisite
masterpiece, it has an illustrious provenance.
One of only four individual pieces pro-
duced for Allied leaders of World War II, this
particular timepiece was made specifically for
one of Britain’s greatest statesmen, Sir Win-
ston Churchill. Its design was the result of col-
laboration between leading watchmaker Louis
Cottier and manufacturer Agassiz & Co, who
invented the World Time mechanism of this
vintage piece and creates designs for Vacher-
on Constantin and Patek Philippe. These were
commissioned by a group of prominent Swiss
dignitaries, this one honouring Sir Winston’s
wartime and post-war contributions. The oth-
er three were presented to France’s General
de Gaulle, Russia’s Josef Stalin and American
President Harry Truman.
It is an exceptional victory watch designed
as a symbol of courage and leadership, in-
scribed “1943”. This year marks exactly seven
decades since the end of World War II and 50
years since the death of Churchill.
The watch has a distinctive enamel dial
which shows England’s patron, St George,
slaying the dragon, the hour hand a trident
– a symbol of good triumphing over evil and
brightness triumphing over darkness. These
were emblematic of Churchill’s strength and
courageousness during the war. Engraved on
the case-back is: “V” for “victory”, together
with a personalised dedication: “1939 – Prime
Minister Sir Winston Curchill – 1945”. It is as
if Sir Winston has been re-imagined as a mod-
ern-day hero. He received the gift in 1946 and
treasured it greatly.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2015
MARKETPLACE
Contact Adri Viviers on 084-261-1805 or sajewellerynews@isikhova.co.za
THE DISCOVERY OF PRECIOUS
stones provided the incentive
to create an impressive gem-
producing industry – gem-
stones have been worked in
the area since the 16th century. The town in-
directly experienced a renewed boom with the
discovery of agate deposits in Brazil by Ger-
man immigrants
The basis for the development of its manu-
facture at Idar-Oberstein lay in the resources of
the concentrates and finds of agate, as well as
good local sandstone for the cutting and pol-
ishing wheel, with major available water power
from the River Nahe to work them. The first
recorded documents of these operations recov-
ered are dated 1548.
In the 17th and 18th centuries, some 30
workshops for cutting agate were established
using the river for electricity. By the 19th cen-
tury, this number had grown to 153 cutting
shops. In more recent times, with the use of
steam power and the advent of electrical en-
ergy, manufacturers produced anything from
goblets to beads and production has been
somewhat decentralised to workshops around
the district. Nevertheless, Idar-Oberstein has
established its own gemstone industries, spe-
cialising almost exclusively in producing agate.
By the early 20th century, the town had
become a powerhouse in the field of chemistry
and this knowledge was applied to the gem
industry. It continued innovating and created
superior technologies in the chemical process,
which included a secret dyeing procedure.
Agate was also used for cameos, its layers ideal
for carving the images featured thereon. While
Idar-Oberstein focused on producing objects,
the art of cameo-caving moved to Torre del
Greco in Italy, where it is centred today. Some
years ago, en route to Capri, I watched
the callused hands of the artisans reveal
wondrous miniature works of art made
possible by the different layers of colours
which their carvings exposed.
After World War II, Idar-Oberstein need-
ed to find a new niche for itself. To do so,
it built on its previous tradition. Gem traders
moved away from agate and invested heavily
in mines in Brazil and Africa which produced
rough of many different types of gemstones.
Idar-Oberstein became a trading centre of
rough and cut stones. With the large supplies
of agate and gemstone rough, artists were
able to choose the perfect material for their
designs. A new generation of them was born
in the 20th century, including some of the best
gem-cutters of the era, such as Bernd Mun-
steiner, known to aficionados as the “Picasso
28
The town of Idar-Oberstein in Germany’s Rhineland is known as the gem centre of Europe and has a 500-year history of working with gemstones. Alice Weil explains how the first major activities began when miners found agate and amethyst in the area.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2015
LITTLE GEMS
Agate was used extensively in ancient times, particularly in the Bronze Age and the Minoan culture.
A gem of a town
of gems”. He created fantasy gems from large
stones using his keen instincts and the depth of
the rough to unveil the best possible attributes
of a given mineral through strategically placed
facet shapes, a technique known as the “con-
text cut”. He left a family legacy to be contin-
ued by his son, Tom.
Agate is historically one of the most com-
mon materials used in the art of hard stone
carving. It was used extensively in ancient
times, particularly in the Bronze Age and the
Minoan culture. It is a variety of silica, particu-
larly chalcedony, a banded, shell-like material
of which quartz fibres are orientated vertical-
ly. Some agate is formed from silicrified fossil
shells, specifically spiral freshwater gastropods
which have elongated. Greek agate is the name
given to white to tan-coloured agate which has
been found in Sicily dating back to 400BC. The
Greeks used it for making jewellery and beads.
The Sumerians and Egyptians utilised it for dec-
oration and in religious ceremonies.
The present-day Brazilian quality is interlaced
with white and grey, which creates a startling
specimen when cut opposite the successive
bands, but is often dyed for ornamental pur-
poses. Other forms include the Lake Superior va-
riety, cornelian agate (which has a reddish hue),
Botswana agate, blue lace agate and others.
The material used to be recovered from
large and heavy blocks split with hammer and
chisel along fissures. Today, almost without
exception, it is sawed with a diamond-studded
circular saw, but some machines have been
developed which cut flat stones automatically.
The agate is shaped roughly on a wheel coated
with water and the final shaping is done
on a sandstone wheel. The stone is given
its lustre in the final polishing, which is
done slowly on a rotating cylinder of
beechwood, which shows up the fine
structural lines.
Types of jewellery for which agate
is used include pins and brooches. It
is also used for making mortars and
pestles due to its hardness and ability to
resist acids. It is a unique industry created
in and around Idar-Oberstein, with its highly
favourable natural resources.
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