What’s New in Peptide Technologies

PRESENTED BY SOPHIE ASHWORTH DipNurs., Cert IV BTh., Cert.DermTh (AACDS)

Speaker’s declaration of interest Potential Conflicts Yes/No

Air Fares or accommodation supplied by organisation or company related to presentation

NO

Shareholder or director in company associated with presentation

NO

Direct or indirect payment received from company or organisation associated with presentation

NO

Direct or indirect payment received from outside organisation or entity to perform investigation being presented

NO

Past payment for services by company or organisation associated with presentation

NO

Any other conflict of interest relevant to the presentation. YES

Introduction to peptides • Peptides encapsulate a vast array

of new active ingredients

• Tens of millions available

• Advances in:

• Science

• Technology

• Laboratory techniques

Protein

Peptide

Peptides: the ‘pearl necklace’ analogy

• Explaining peptides to clients

• Amino acids are the building blocks of protein

• 1 amino acid = 1 pearl

• Peptide = a few pearls

• Protein = the entire pearl necklace

Peptide

The ‘peptide library’ approach to laboratory peptides

E.g. create a 6aa peptide (using 21 natural aa’s from library)

Brief: to stimulate Collagen type IV

• 64 million combinations of peptides tested

• Only one chosen as active cosmeceutical

Peptide facts and myths FACTS

• Peptides: buzz word = consumer confusion

• Penetration: To reach target cell, peptide < 1000 Daltons weight (approx. 15 amino acids in length). This equates to a few pearls of the necklace

MYTHS

• The addition of collagen to skincare products

• Collagen (including collagen extracts) in skincare has a molecular weight of 15,000 to 50,000 Daltons

Growth factor controversy Topical growth factors: impact on skin • Growth factors do not distinguish between viable and

malignant cells • Using topical growth factors found in cosmeceutical

products is highly controversial* • Phycosaccharide alternative: stimulates the skin’s

own growth factors from within: highly specific and safe in their action

* Scientific American : ‘In the Flesh: The Embedded Dangers of Untested Stem Cell Cosmetics: Unapproved procedures and skin care products endanger consumers and clinical research’ Dec 17, 2012

Current peptides categories 1. Signal Peptides

2. Neuropeptides

3. Enzyme Inhibitor Peptides 4. Carrier Peptides

Collagen Cycle Control Tripeptide-10, tripeptide-1 → Stimulation, protection and regulation

Triple action peptide: acts on all stages of the collagen life-cycle

1. Stimulating the synthesis of collagen I, II and IV

2. Controlling dimensions of fibers

3. Inhibiting enzymatic degradation

Melanocyte control: Oligopeptide-34

In vivo efficacy study

Aged pigment and lesion was significantly decreased after 8 weeks

Multifunctional 3 way activity

Melanosome transfer inhibitor

No toxicity

versus HQ

Tyrosinase enzyme inhibitor

Acetyl tetrapeptide-33: In vivo efficacy ROSACEA AND GENERALISED REDNESS IMPROVEMENT 20 volunteers with mild rosacea applied 2% Acetyl tetrapeptide-33 solution x2 daily for 28 days

DAY 0 DAY 28

Infraorbital oedema: Acetyl tetrapeptide-5

• Reduces puffiness and dark circles

• Decongesting effect

• Fights against oedema due to poor lymphatic circulation

• Reduces capillary permeability

• Inhibits glycation

• Increases skin elasticity (+33% in one month)

Acetyl tetrapeptide-5: In vivo efficacy

1. Significant decrease in only 14 days

2. Eye bags reduced in 70% of the volunteers after 28 days

3. Skin elasticity had a 30% increase after 30 days

4. Double action: reduction of puffy eye bags and dark circles

5. Improvement of skin elasticity

Peptides and genome protection Juve-11 ™ aka Juvefoxo / Acetyl Hexapeptide 51

Hydra genus ‘the immortal jellyfish’

• Able to mimic activity of FOXO3a in human skin

• DNA protected • Prevent cell senescence • Delay the visible signs of ageing

55 YO fibroblasts untreated

55 YO fibroblasts treated with Juvefoxo™ 24hr incubation

Acetyl Hexapeptide 51 In vitro efficacy: senescence reverted

Test protocol: 55 year old woman • HDF activity with ß-gal positive marker • Fibroblasts recovered with 64.5% ↓ ß-gal activity → structure and function of cells 10 years younger in cell morphology

In vivo results ᵝ-Gal activity

67 yo HDFa 37 yo HDFa 55 yo HDFa 55 yo HDFa +Juvefoxo™ (0.01 mg/mL)

ᵝ-ga

l pos

itive

HDF

a (%

)

64.5% redn

A combined approach

The Three C’s to optimum results

1. Cosmeceuticals

2. Compliance

3. Combination therapies: IPL, Laser, LED, PDT, CIT, Cosmetic injectables

Future of cosmetic science Peptides play a significant role in the future of cosmetic science

The implications for the future of formulating chemistry with the wide variety of peptides possible from utilising the peptide library approach

Thank you!

PRESENTED BY SOPHIE ASHWORTH DipNurs., Voc.Grad.Cert.DermTh (AACDS), Cert IV BTh.