_spring/summer 2012
Kristen HendyParsons The New School for DesignFashion Industry: MarketingFall 2011
Table of contents:Day 1…………………………………………………………………… 3 BCBG Max Azria ……………………………………………………………………………………………… 6 Nicholas K ……………………………………………………………………………………………………... 7 Richard Chai Love ……………………………………………………………………………………………... 8
Day 2…………………………………………………………………….9 Alexander Wang ………………………………………………………………………………………………12 Cynthia Rowley………………………………………………………………………………………………... 13 The Row …………………………………………………………………………………………………….... 14
Day 3………………………………………………………………...…..15 Carolina Herrera …………………………………………………………………………………………….... 18 Donna Karan …………………………………………………………………………………………………. 19 Zac Posen …………………………………………....………………………………………………………... 20
Day 4…………………………………………………………………... .21 Theyskens’ Theory …………………………………………………………………………………………..... 24 Rodarte ……………………………………………………………………………………………………… 25 Vera Wang …………………………………………....………………………………………………………. 26
Day 5…………………………………………………………………... 27 Michael Kors ……………………………………………………………………………………………….... ..30 Narciso Rodriguez …………………………………………………………………………………………..... 31 Proenza Schouler………………………………………....………………………………………………….... 32
Trends…………………………………………………………………. .33 Utility sportswear …………………………………………………………………………………………..... 34 Geometric tribal …………………………………………………………………………………………….. 35 Tonal color block …………………………………………....……………………………………………….. 36 Twenties …………………………………………………………………………………………………….. 37 New florals …………………………………………………………………………………………………, 38
Editor Chart…………………………………………………………….39
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Day 1:Friday September 9, 2011
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Day 1_lead article
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Focus of the day_beauty
Sections:
Beauty
Legal
Policy
Retail
Fashion
Media
People
FNO
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Day 1_BCBG Max Azria
Style.com:• Carried on last season’s color blocking theme• Added dose of athletic chic• Tribal numbers had too much going on
WWD:• Amalgamation of recent trends• Channeling active glamour• Dresses needlessly complicated with patterns and details
Kristen Hendy:• Sporty-cool yet still elegant• Flattering and sexy silhouettes• Collection lacks continuity at times
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Day 1_Nicholas K
Kristen Hendy:• Silhouettes drape well with lots of movement• Muted color palette• Well-styled with headscarves
WWD:• Explored lighter side for spring• Stayed true to aesthetic• Utilitarian & multilayere
Style.com• Layers add lightness• Smooth flow from tonal whites into black• Men’s collection showcased her strength but nothing new
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Day 1_Richard Chai Love
Style.com:• Eye candy• Downtown serious stance best served with a dose of happy• Still showcased signature long & layered looks
WWD:• Identity of collection turning more towards streetwear• Played with mismatching patterns and layers• Playful energy to show
Kristen Hendy:• Florals unique and refreshing• Great combination of separates in styling• Youthful image to collection
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Day 2:Monday September 12, 2011
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Day 2_lead article
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Focus of the day_innerwear, legwear __________& accessories
Sections:
Fashion
Retail
Financial
Accessories
Media
People
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Style.com:• Athletic chic trend comes naturally to Wang• Contemporary prices but distinct designer finesse• Lots of great wearable merchandise
WWD:• Wang has been setting the bar for street wear• BMX references gave sporty surreal effect• Laser-cut leathers and bodysuits precision made
Day 2_Alexander Wang
Kristen Hendy:• Breathtaking stage• Loved the stadium-inspired patterns• Incorporated major trends while using original inspiration of stadium
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Day 2_Cynthia Rowley
Style.com:• Brought in elements fro recent video lookbook• Metallic details came to life on mirrored runway• Best looks combines athletic elements with feminine silhouettes
WWD:• Collection at its best when kept flirty• Sporty pieces still had girly touch• Stiff bonded pieces were unflattering
Kristen Hendy:• Reflective runway complimented collection• Great prints on both separates and dresses• Geometric piping on pants interesting
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Day 2_The Row
Style.com:• Collection more restrained than Fall 2011• Elegant & mature• Exceptional workmanship and attention to detail
WWD:• Fusion of ethereal calm and clinical strength• Detailed tailoring against gentle lines•Statement of chic comfort and adult elegance
Kristen Hendy:• Impeccable tailoring and detailing• Soft color palette balanced with strong construction• Serene feel to collection
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Day 3:Tuesday September 13, 2011
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Day 3_lead article
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Focus of the day_rtw & textiles
Sections:
Accessories
Financial
Legal
Trade Shows
Fashion
Beauty
Textiles
Media
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Day 3_Carolina Herrera
Style.com:• Freshness to collection• Even when sporty there is luxury• Ambitions can sometimes get the better of her (e.g. yellow dress)
Kristen Hendy:• Classic feminine feel• Several vintage references with strong construction• Loved the color palette
WWD:• Equal focus on line and embellishment• Herrera at her most chic and au courant• Lone bag in collection was a winner
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Day 3_Donna Karan
Style.com:• Collection may have roots elsewhere but still completely urban• Full skirts with faces came off as costumey• Rest of collection had famous Karan ease
WWD:• Passion for Haiti trumped poetic judgment• Prints were dizzying• Color palette was drab
Kristen Hendy:• Beautiful tonal color blocking• Several prints resembled arts and crafts project• Knows how to flatter a woman’s body
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Day 3_Zac Posen
Style.com:• Well executed gowns reminiscent of glory days• Focus on precise cut and fit• Insouciance could be growth market for Posen
Kristen Hendy:• Collection somewhat dated• Evening gowns too dramatic and structured• Styling was off
WWD:• Focus on eveningwear rather than sporty• Construction and architectural detail somewhat severe• Was able to tone down drama with certain pieces _20
Day 4:Wednesday September 14, 2011
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Day 4_lead article
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Focus of the day_sportswear
Sections:
Fragrance
Financial
Denim
Fashion
People
Media
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Day 4_Theyskens’ Theory
Style.com:• Managed to recreate cool downtown look on runway• Innovation in new pant style• Lower price point has made his clothes more popular
WWD:• Brought sense of Gothic whimsy to collection• Had fun with typical elitist look• Full of strong streetwear that could go day or night
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Kristen Hendy:• Casual cool without trying• Stunning metallic pants• Select eveningwear kept the Theyskens aesthetic
Day 4_Rodarte
WWD:• Challenge of merging artistic and creative endeavors• Mesmerizing concoction of color, construction and fantastical gowns• Precise fit and structure on inside
Style.com:• Unexpected reference• Effect of dresses often hypnotic• Prom dress silhouette has been pitched before and failed
Kristen Hendy:• Interesting inspiration• Some dresses were taken too far and too prom-like• Gorgeous embroidery on skirts
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Day 4_Vera Wang
WWD:• Focused on bodice construction and layering• Odd twinges of Nina Ricci and Theyskens in collection• Denoted appreciation of beauty and wonder
Kristen Hendy:• Love the mix of colors and patterns• Construction of bodices are impeccable• Sheer layers add femininity
Style.com:• Sprites came to mind• Prints especially trippy• Collection is antithetical to Wang’s usual bridal business customers
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Day 5:Thursday September 15, 2011
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Day 5_lead article
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Focus of the day_menswear & denim
Sections:
Luxury
Retail
Fashion
Media
Internet
Men’s Fashion
Men’s Retail
Men’s Footwear
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Day 5_Michael Kors
Style.com:• Inspiration described as “Afriluxe”• Synthesized theme with easy American sportswear Kors is known for• Holey sweaters were a miss
WWD:• After 30th anniversary show, new collection is “on the road again”• Deep connection to nature mixed with comfort and modernity• Prevailing color palette looked drab
Kristen Hendy:• Strong cohesiveness to collection• Flowing fabrics reflect African inspiration• Certain pieces too rugged to be wearable
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Day 5_Narciso Rodriguez
Style.com:• Broke away from usual minimalist tendencies• Inspired by work of artist Kim Joon• Elegant use of patchworking and asymmetry
WWD:• Invoked tattoos of Joon in oblique fashion• Different-drummer vitality in print-heavy season• Gentle show-closing dresses floated down the runway _31
Kristen Hendy:• Minimalist aesthetic was cleansing after week filled with prints• Reds and oranges well-used• Etherealism portrayed in final dresses
Day 5_Proenza Schouler
Style.com:• Inspirational starting point was Googie architecture• Explored craft through weaving & geometric designs• Color & print handled in moodily sophisticated way
WWD:• Brown rec room rug inspired by 50s car interior• Ironic tackiness of décor did not reflect collection• Throwback references done with precision, originality & expert craftsmanship _32
Kristen Hendy:• 70s anathematic color palette used in tasteful manner• Innovative combinations of prints and textures
Trends
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Trends_Utility sportswear
Victoria BeckhamBCBG Max Azria
Key features:• Simple sporty shapes in luxe fabrics• Functional detailing – exposed plastic zips, buckles• Bellow pockets, drawstrings and hoods
Rag & Bone Helmut Lang Lacoste
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Trends_Geometric tribal
Donna Karan Alexander Wang BCBG Max Azria
Key features:• Bold chevrons• Ndbele-inspired color blocking• Engineered placement emphasize cut of silhouettes
Carolina HerreraProenza Schouler
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Trends_Tonal color block
Jill Stuart Donna Karan Michael Kors
Key features:• Harmonious shades• One color family rather than harsh contrasts• Mostly seen in oranges and blues
Lacoste Diane von Furstenberg
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Trends_Twenties
Key features:• Dropped-waist dresses• Neat-fit knits• Louche wide-legged pants
Carolina Herrera Ralph Lauren Rag & Bone Tory Burch Marchesa
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Trends_New florals
Alexander Wang Richard Chai Love Cynthia Rowley
Key features:• Combining different print motifs together• One motif on contrasting color background• Monochrome palettes with hand-painted qualities
Zac Posen Proenza Schouler
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Editor chart(in order of appearance)
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!
Monday
Miles Socha Fashion
Luiza Zargani Retail
David Moin Retail
Vicki M. Young Retail
Kristi Ellis Financial
Arthur Friedman Financial
Marc Karimzadeh Fashion Media
Lisa Lockwood Fashion
Rachel Strugatz Accessories
Alexandra Steigrad Accessories
Marc Karimzadeh Media
Amy Wicks Media
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Tuesday
Alexandra Steigrad Accessories
Legal
Miles Socha Accessories
Fashion
Evan Clark Financial
David Moin Fashion Beauty
Julie Naughton Beauty
Pete Born Beauty Media
Jean E. Palmieri Beauty
Katya Foreman Trade Shows
Textiles
Marc Karimzadeh Fashion Coterie
Khan T.L. Tran Fashion Coterie
Joelle Diderich Textiles
Arthur Friedman Textiles
Amy Wicks Media
David Lipke Media
Alessandra Codinha Media
Rosemary Feitelberg Media !!
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Wednesday
David Moin Financial
Arnold J. Karr Retail
Sharon Edelson Retail
Karyn Monget Innerwear
Khan T.L. Tran Denim
David Lipke Denim
Luiza Zargani Milan Preview
Alessandra Turra Milan Preview
Kristi Ellis People
Katya Foreman People
John Koblin Media
Alessandra Codinha Media
Matthew Lynch Media
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Thursday
Miles Socha Luxury
David Moin Retail
Internet
David Lipke Fashion
Marcy Mendina Internet
Samantha Conti Fashion
Jean E. Palmieri Men’s Retail
Alex Badia Men’s Fashion
Alessandra Turra Men’s Footwear
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Friday
Julie Naughton Beauty
Joelle Diderich Legal
Lisa Lockwood Retail
Kristi Ellis Policy
Beth Wilson Retail
Luiza Zargani Retail
People
Marc Karimzadeh Media
Pete Born Beauty
Lisa Lockwood Fashion
Evan Clark Retail
!
!
Friday September 9, 2011 – Thursday September 15, 2011
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