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_spring/summer 2012 Kristen Hendy Parsons The New School for Design Fashion Industry: Marketing Fall 2011

WWD SS12 Fashion Week Review

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Page 1: WWD SS12 Fashion Week Review

_spring/summer 2012

Kristen HendyParsons The New School for DesignFashion Industry: MarketingFall 2011

Page 2: WWD SS12 Fashion Week Review

Table of contents:Day 1…………………………………………………………………… 3 BCBG Max Azria ……………………………………………………………………………………………… 6 Nicholas K ……………………………………………………………………………………………………... 7 Richard Chai Love ……………………………………………………………………………………………... 8

Day 2…………………………………………………………………….9 Alexander Wang ………………………………………………………………………………………………12 Cynthia Rowley………………………………………………………………………………………………... 13 The Row …………………………………………………………………………………………………….... 14

Day 3………………………………………………………………...…..15 Carolina Herrera …………………………………………………………………………………………….... 18 Donna Karan …………………………………………………………………………………………………. 19 Zac Posen …………………………………………....………………………………………………………... 20

Day 4…………………………………………………………………... .21 Theyskens’ Theory …………………………………………………………………………………………..... 24 Rodarte ……………………………………………………………………………………………………… 25 Vera Wang …………………………………………....………………………………………………………. 26

Day 5…………………………………………………………………... 27 Michael Kors ……………………………………………………………………………………………….... ..30 Narciso Rodriguez …………………………………………………………………………………………..... 31 Proenza Schouler………………………………………....………………………………………………….... 32

Trends…………………………………………………………………. .33 Utility sportswear …………………………………………………………………………………………..... 34 Geometric tribal …………………………………………………………………………………………….. 35 Tonal color block …………………………………………....……………………………………………….. 36 Twenties …………………………………………………………………………………………………….. 37 New florals …………………………………………………………………………………………………, 38

Editor Chart…………………………………………………………….39

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Page 3: WWD SS12 Fashion Week Review

Day 1:Friday September 9, 2011

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Page 4: WWD SS12 Fashion Week Review

Day 1_lead article

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Page 5: WWD SS12 Fashion Week Review

Focus of the day_beauty

Sections:

Beauty

Legal

Policy

Retail

Fashion

Media

People

FNO

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Page 6: WWD SS12 Fashion Week Review

Day 1_BCBG Max Azria

Style.com:• Carried on last season’s color blocking theme• Added dose of athletic chic• Tribal numbers had too much going on

WWD:• Amalgamation of recent trends• Channeling active glamour• Dresses needlessly complicated with patterns and details

Kristen Hendy:• Sporty-cool yet still elegant• Flattering and sexy silhouettes• Collection lacks continuity at times

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Page 7: WWD SS12 Fashion Week Review

Day 1_Nicholas K

Kristen Hendy:• Silhouettes drape well with lots of movement• Muted color palette• Well-styled with headscarves

WWD:• Explored lighter side for spring• Stayed true to aesthetic• Utilitarian & multilayere

Style.com• Layers add lightness• Smooth flow from tonal whites into black• Men’s collection showcased her strength but nothing new

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Page 8: WWD SS12 Fashion Week Review

Day 1_Richard Chai Love

Style.com:• Eye candy• Downtown serious stance best served with a dose of happy• Still showcased signature long & layered looks

WWD:• Identity of collection turning more towards streetwear• Played with mismatching patterns and layers• Playful energy to show

Kristen Hendy:• Florals unique and refreshing• Great combination of separates in styling• Youthful image to collection

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Page 9: WWD SS12 Fashion Week Review

Day 2:Monday September 12, 2011

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Page 10: WWD SS12 Fashion Week Review

Day 2_lead article

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Page 11: WWD SS12 Fashion Week Review

Focus of the day_innerwear, legwear __________& accessories

Sections:

Fashion

Retail

Financial

Accessories

Media

People

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Page 12: WWD SS12 Fashion Week Review

Style.com:• Athletic chic trend comes naturally to Wang• Contemporary prices but distinct designer finesse• Lots of great wearable merchandise

WWD:• Wang has been setting the bar for street wear• BMX references gave sporty surreal effect• Laser-cut leathers and bodysuits precision made

Day 2_Alexander Wang

Kristen Hendy:• Breathtaking stage• Loved the stadium-inspired patterns• Incorporated major trends while using original inspiration of stadium

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Page 13: WWD SS12 Fashion Week Review

Day 2_Cynthia Rowley

Style.com:• Brought in elements fro recent video lookbook• Metallic details came to life on mirrored runway• Best looks combines athletic elements with feminine silhouettes

WWD:• Collection at its best when kept flirty• Sporty pieces still had girly touch• Stiff bonded pieces were unflattering

Kristen Hendy:• Reflective runway complimented collection• Great prints on both separates and dresses• Geometric piping on pants interesting

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Page 14: WWD SS12 Fashion Week Review

Day 2_The Row

Style.com:• Collection more restrained than Fall 2011• Elegant & mature• Exceptional workmanship and attention to detail

WWD:• Fusion of ethereal calm and clinical strength• Detailed tailoring against gentle lines•Statement of chic comfort and adult elegance

Kristen Hendy:• Impeccable tailoring and detailing• Soft color palette balanced with strong construction• Serene feel to collection

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Page 15: WWD SS12 Fashion Week Review

Day 3:Tuesday September 13, 2011

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Page 16: WWD SS12 Fashion Week Review

Day 3_lead article

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Page 17: WWD SS12 Fashion Week Review

Focus of the day_rtw & textiles

Sections:

Accessories

Financial

Legal

Trade Shows

Fashion

Beauty

Textiles

Media

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Page 18: WWD SS12 Fashion Week Review

Day 3_Carolina Herrera

Style.com:• Freshness to collection• Even when sporty there is luxury• Ambitions can sometimes get the better of her (e.g. yellow dress)

Kristen Hendy:• Classic feminine feel• Several vintage references with strong construction• Loved the color palette

WWD:• Equal focus on line and embellishment• Herrera at her most chic and au courant• Lone bag in collection was a winner

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Page 19: WWD SS12 Fashion Week Review

Day 3_Donna Karan

Style.com:• Collection may have roots elsewhere but still completely urban• Full skirts with faces came off as costumey• Rest of collection had famous Karan ease

WWD:• Passion for Haiti trumped poetic judgment• Prints were dizzying• Color palette was drab

Kristen Hendy:• Beautiful tonal color blocking• Several prints resembled arts and crafts project• Knows how to flatter a woman’s body

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Page 20: WWD SS12 Fashion Week Review

Day 3_Zac Posen

Style.com:• Well executed gowns reminiscent of glory days• Focus on precise cut and fit• Insouciance could be growth market for Posen

Kristen Hendy:• Collection somewhat dated• Evening gowns too dramatic and structured• Styling was off

WWD:• Focus on eveningwear rather than sporty• Construction and architectural detail somewhat severe• Was able to tone down drama with certain pieces _20

Page 21: WWD SS12 Fashion Week Review

Day 4:Wednesday September 14, 2011

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Page 22: WWD SS12 Fashion Week Review

Day 4_lead article

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Page 23: WWD SS12 Fashion Week Review

Focus of the day_sportswear

Sections:

Fragrance

Financial

Denim

Fashion

People

Media

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Page 24: WWD SS12 Fashion Week Review

Day 4_Theyskens’ Theory

Style.com:• Managed to recreate cool downtown look on runway• Innovation in new pant style• Lower price point has made his clothes more popular

WWD:• Brought sense of Gothic whimsy to collection• Had fun with typical elitist look• Full of strong streetwear that could go day or night

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Kristen Hendy:• Casual cool without trying• Stunning metallic pants• Select eveningwear kept the Theyskens aesthetic

Page 25: WWD SS12 Fashion Week Review

Day 4_Rodarte

WWD:• Challenge of merging artistic and creative endeavors• Mesmerizing concoction of color, construction and fantastical gowns• Precise fit and structure on inside

Style.com:• Unexpected reference• Effect of dresses often hypnotic• Prom dress silhouette has been pitched before and failed

Kristen Hendy:• Interesting inspiration• Some dresses were taken too far and too prom-like• Gorgeous embroidery on skirts

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Page 26: WWD SS12 Fashion Week Review

Day 4_Vera Wang

WWD:• Focused on bodice construction and layering• Odd twinges of Nina Ricci and Theyskens in collection• Denoted appreciation of beauty and wonder

Kristen Hendy:• Love the mix of colors and patterns• Construction of bodices are impeccable• Sheer layers add femininity

Style.com:• Sprites came to mind• Prints especially trippy• Collection is antithetical to Wang’s usual bridal business customers

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Page 27: WWD SS12 Fashion Week Review

Day 5:Thursday September 15, 2011

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Page 28: WWD SS12 Fashion Week Review

Day 5_lead article

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Page 29: WWD SS12 Fashion Week Review

Focus of the day_menswear & denim

Sections:

Luxury

Retail

Fashion

Media

Internet

Men’s Fashion

Men’s Retail

Men’s Footwear

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Page 30: WWD SS12 Fashion Week Review

Day 5_Michael Kors

Style.com:• Inspiration described as “Afriluxe”• Synthesized theme with easy American sportswear Kors is known for• Holey sweaters were a miss

WWD:• After 30th anniversary show, new collection is “on the road again”• Deep connection to nature mixed with comfort and modernity• Prevailing color palette looked drab

Kristen Hendy:• Strong cohesiveness to collection• Flowing fabrics reflect African inspiration• Certain pieces too rugged to be wearable

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Page 31: WWD SS12 Fashion Week Review

Day 5_Narciso Rodriguez

Style.com:• Broke away from usual minimalist tendencies• Inspired by work of artist Kim Joon• Elegant use of patchworking and asymmetry

WWD:• Invoked tattoos of Joon in oblique fashion• Different-drummer vitality in print-heavy season• Gentle show-closing dresses floated down the runway _31

Kristen Hendy:• Minimalist aesthetic was cleansing after week filled with prints• Reds and oranges well-used• Etherealism portrayed in final dresses

Page 32: WWD SS12 Fashion Week Review

Day 5_Proenza Schouler

Style.com:• Inspirational starting point was Googie architecture• Explored craft through weaving & geometric designs• Color & print handled in moodily sophisticated way

WWD:• Brown rec room rug inspired by 50s car interior• Ironic tackiness of décor did not reflect collection• Throwback references done with precision, originality & expert craftsmanship _32

Kristen Hendy:• 70s anathematic color palette used in tasteful manner• Innovative combinations of prints and textures

Page 33: WWD SS12 Fashion Week Review

Trends

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Page 34: WWD SS12 Fashion Week Review

Trends_Utility sportswear

Victoria BeckhamBCBG Max Azria

Key features:• Simple sporty shapes in luxe fabrics• Functional detailing – exposed plastic zips, buckles• Bellow pockets, drawstrings and hoods

Rag & Bone Helmut Lang Lacoste

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Page 35: WWD SS12 Fashion Week Review

Trends_Geometric tribal

Donna Karan Alexander Wang BCBG Max Azria

Key features:• Bold chevrons• Ndbele-inspired color blocking• Engineered placement emphasize cut of silhouettes

Carolina HerreraProenza Schouler

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Page 36: WWD SS12 Fashion Week Review

Trends_Tonal color block

Jill Stuart Donna Karan Michael Kors

Key features:• Harmonious shades• One color family rather than harsh contrasts• Mostly seen in oranges and blues

Lacoste Diane von Furstenberg

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Page 37: WWD SS12 Fashion Week Review

Trends_Twenties

Key features:• Dropped-waist dresses• Neat-fit knits• Louche wide-legged pants

Carolina Herrera Ralph Lauren Rag & Bone Tory Burch Marchesa

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Page 38: WWD SS12 Fashion Week Review

Trends_New florals

Alexander Wang Richard Chai Love Cynthia Rowley

Key features:• Combining different print motifs together• One motif on contrasting color background• Monochrome palettes with hand-painted qualities

Zac Posen Proenza Schouler

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Page 39: WWD SS12 Fashion Week Review

Editor chart(in order of appearance)

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Page 40: WWD SS12 Fashion Week Review

!

Monday

Miles Socha Fashion

Luiza Zargani Retail

David Moin Retail

Vicki M. Young Retail

Kristi Ellis Financial

Arthur Friedman Financial

Marc Karimzadeh Fashion Media

Lisa Lockwood Fashion

Rachel Strugatz Accessories

Alexandra Steigrad Accessories

Marc Karimzadeh Media

Amy Wicks Media

!

!

Tuesday

Alexandra Steigrad Accessories

Legal

Miles Socha Accessories

Fashion

Evan Clark Financial

David Moin Fashion Beauty

Julie Naughton Beauty

Pete Born Beauty Media

Jean E. Palmieri Beauty

Katya Foreman Trade Shows

Textiles

Marc Karimzadeh Fashion Coterie

Khan T.L. Tran Fashion Coterie

Joelle Diderich Textiles

Arthur Friedman Textiles

Amy Wicks Media

David Lipke Media

Alessandra Codinha Media

Rosemary Feitelberg Media !!

!

Wednesday

David Moin Financial

Arnold J. Karr Retail

Sharon Edelson Retail

Karyn Monget Innerwear

Khan T.L. Tran Denim

David Lipke Denim

Luiza Zargani Milan Preview

Alessandra Turra Milan Preview

Kristi Ellis People

Katya Foreman People

John Koblin Media

Alessandra Codinha Media

Matthew Lynch Media

!

!

Thursday

Miles Socha Luxury

David Moin Retail

Internet

David Lipke Fashion

Marcy Mendina Internet

Samantha Conti Fashion

Jean E. Palmieri Men’s Retail

Alex Badia Men’s Fashion

Alessandra Turra Men’s Footwear

!

!

Friday

Julie Naughton Beauty

Joelle Diderich Legal

Lisa Lockwood Retail

Kristi Ellis Policy

Beth Wilson Retail

Luiza Zargani Retail

People

Marc Karimzadeh Media

Pete Born Beauty

Lisa Lockwood Fashion

Evan Clark Retail

!

!

Friday September 9, 2011 – Thursday September 15, 2011

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