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Check out iStylista's definitive guide to Spring Summer 2012 trends. What a year it's going to be for fashion.
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fit to print | print |verbmark (a surface, typically a textile or garment) with a coloured design or pattern• transfer (a digital image) to a surface: patterns of flowers, aquatic scenes, abstract shapes printed on to fabrics.{ }
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bod•y•map | ‘bädē | map |nouna three-dimensional representation of the physical structure of a person including the skin and bones: showing all the physical features through diaphanous or transparent coverings. [as verb. ] to map the body’s shape.
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ir•i•des•cent | ,iri’desənt | adjectiveshowing luminous colors that seem to change when seen from different angles.
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{ }peplum•tas•tic | pepləm’tastik | adjectivea short flared, gathered, or pleated strip of fabric attached at the waist of a woman’s jacket, dress, skirt or blouse to create a hanging frill or flounce.• of extraordinary size or degree• usually a couture detail• (in ancient Greece) a woman’s loose outer tunic or shaw [ORIGIN: via Latin from Greek peplos.]
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lace up | lās əp | nouna fine open fabric, typically one of cotton or silk, made by looping, twisting, or knitting thread in patterns and used esp. for trimming garments.verb [ trans. ]entwine or tangle (things, esp. fingers) together: he laced his fingers together and sat back.
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{ }new hor•i•zon•tals | n(y)oō ’hôrə’zän(t)ls | adjectivenot existing before; made, introduced, or discovered recently or for the first time.parallel to the plane of the horizon; at right angles to the vertical: a horizontal line.
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or•ange | ‘ôrənj;‘är- | adjectivereddish yellow, like a ripe orange in colour: an orange glow in the hearth of a fire.{ }
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fresh as a daisy | fre SH as a däzē | pHraSe( as) fresh as a daisy; healthy and full of energy, not tainted.ORIGIN Old english dæges ōage [day’s eye] (because the flower opens in the morning and closes at night).{
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night•time | ‘nīt,tīm | nounthe time between evening and morning; the time of darkness: slipping away over the river in the nighttime | [as adj. ] the government imposed a nighttime curfew.{ }G
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trib•al | ‘trībəl | adjectiveof or characteristic of a tribe or tribes: tribal designs of rock and earth from africa.• members of tribal communities, esp. in the Indian subcontinent.derIVatIVeStribally adverb.{ }
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de•tail | ‘dētāl | nouna decorative feature of a garment or work of art.• the style or treatment of such features : the classical french detail of the necklace.ORIGIN early 17th cent. from french détail (noun), détailler (verb), from dé- (expressing separation) + tailler ‘to cut’ (based on Latin { }
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text | tekst | nouna piece of written or printed material regarded as conveying the contents of a particular work.{ }
––– Overview –––
The Spring/Summer 2012 collections feel like spring collections should: bright and romantic, refreshed and colourful, bountiful and energetic, light and uplifting. Scrubbed, clean models bounced down runways with a spring in their step revealing their flesh in an unabashed and exuberant manner. This dance of light, airy, joyful clothing provides a canvas on which to showcase new high-performance fabrics that not only look good but feel good as well. New finishing techniques too, provide dry, slick or crisp touches where prints add an obvious array of seasonal imagery and are immensely popular.
––– influencers –––
New influences to shape the season have been the premature death of Amy Winehouse, the Royal wedding and Catherine’s huge reach on fashion. People are now not only making clothes that mimic her style but they are desperately trying to make clothes that she might choose to buy in the hope of sky rocketing their sales. The horrendous floods in China, Pakistan and Australia have wiped out crops forcing retailers to look for inexpensive alternatives and practically removing 100% cotton garments from the high street.
Recurring factors that shape the tone and mood of this season are as ever the economy and the predicted double dip recession we are all so dreading. The ability for digital prints to provide endless inexpensive possibilities for creative imagery on clothing and the core ideal of any brand: to create aspiration.
––– fashiOn thOughts –––
“The abstract art of Rodarte’s collections makes the Mulleavy sisters fashion catnip.” said Luke Leitch The Telegraph.
‘I find this spring/summer season to be much lighter and uplifting than the others.’ said Linda Fargo of Bergdorf Goodman.
“They’ve been sweating the small stuff in Paris. When the world at large lurches from one extreme to another, you focus on what you can control. On the catwalks, designers displayed an obsession
with classic couture detailing, be it fluted sleeves, peplums, the curving back of a sac shape or the generous tent of the trapeze. Off the catwalks, however, this took another form: surface technique. Which is not the same thing as superficial.” Vanessa Friedman, Financial Times.
––– 10 trends –––
1/OrangeFire colours burnt down the runways with clean precision. While it might not be the mainstay colour of every collection, it causes a ‘diamond in the rough’ sensation as it gleams at you from the catwalk and begs to be noticed. The key to getting this trend right is to throw flame colours onto your body with unerring confidence and set a room alight.
2/ fit tO PrintThe digital revolution keeps on coming. This season we swim in pixels as more and more designers use this medium to express themselves. Largely applied to highlight digital artwork (the abstract world of computer generated graphics), we now see digital techniques rendering lifelike and historic prints in obfuscation previously not possible. The potential for print combinations is colossal and while we have not reached maximum velocity we are very much in the rapid experimental growth phase. These prints range from fauvist florals to aquatic mammals, the conjoining element being the 3D nature of the images, not in anyway appliquéd, but intrinsically realistic. There are enormous, bold and colorful, tropical, romantic, elongated, abstract and ethnic prints as well as paisleys and skins.
3/ iridescent Giorgio Armani called his collection “Nacre at nighttime,” referring to the French word for mother of pearl, the gleaming natural underwater treasure that could be used to describe all of this iridescent trend. The link here is a shimmery almost unbelievable surface that marks these garments out as a collective group and allows them to slink through a crowd and grab your attention. Sometimes created using sequins, in other instances a metallic tread or a lacquered surface.
4/ BOdymaPDiaphanous, transparent and see-through fabrics reveal the body in all its glory. These garments, sometimes layered for more discretion, show the form of the models while also highlighting the skilful construction of the garment. There is an ethereal quality to this trend, an otherworldly confidence and a yet a vulnerability of the ultra lightweight fabrics. A delicately dazzling statement.
5/ PePlumtasticOn the catwalks, designers displayed an obsession with this classic couture detail, be it traditional peplums, flirty peplums, peplums that kick from the blouse or burst from the bottom, these functionless details
fawned over garments with profusion. Adding hips, curves and details to both bodies and garments, they also have the added advantage of accessorising a garment allowing the wearer to be free from belts or bands. The peplum’s return is both refreshing and yet contrived, like a forgotten friend making a planned reappearance. There is an air of superior contentment to this embellishment that makes the clothes feel expensive and other garments feel anxious that they don’t have a peplum – that is peplumtastic.
6/ fresh as a daisyThese fresh clothes are like a deep inhale of breath, not trying to be anything, just existing as a pause or a moment. They represent, through simple colours, lines and faultless tailoring, the quiet skill of an artist rather than the forward thrust of creativity. Garments that exemplify generations of talent in a simplistic rendering of fit and form. Not boring but precise, not printed but plain and not complex but content. Think fresh, clean and pure thoughts.
7/ new hOrizOntalsAngular geometry and graphic lines appear season in and season out, this is not a new concept or a new technique but it is sufficiently prevalent to get a mention. These horizontal lines are wearable, cube like and often un-uniform in their thickness. The most interesting and ‘new’ of these old lines are the horizontal stripes that include black boxes within them, giving a trippy almost ‘magic-eye’ effect to the garment.
8/ triBalThe character of this clothing is distinctly un-tribal but the prints, colouring and overall feel of them oozes African tribal references. Sharp cuts, swinging skirts, neat jackets and even evening gowns have gone native under a swathe of brown and ochre patterns. The printing looks like ribs or bones and has a distinctly aboriginal quality to it. To achieve this look you need a simple and uncomplicated garment that is covered in the natural colours of the African Sahara and looks a bit like a prehistoric cave painting.
9/ night timeOpulently rich and plumy this deep dark trend is intended for late night misadventure. There is no hint of Spring’s joyful rebirth but instead a sinister and sexy nighttime vibe that gives a home to the deeper garments of the season. Punching aggressively above the gentle notes of Spring the aesthetic qualities of this trend are satin fabrics, lace and sequin meshes, rubberised finishes, overly saturated midnight colours, and slices of gazar that follow the body perfectly.
10/ detailsThere are three details of note: the flatform (a flat platform) lives to see another seasonandy coloured hair too makes a novel appearance and clutch bags that cling to you are all the arm-candy you need.