KRAKÓW’S OLYMPIC
DREAM 2022
KRAKÓW AS A TOP IT AND OUTSOURCING HUB
KRAKÓW:FROM TOURISM TO TECHNOLOGY
MAKING WAVES:EIGHT YEARS OFLOCAL DIGITALSUCCESS
By Jens MarkussenBy Anja Wedberg
By Salvatore Carfora
Interview with Andrew Hallam
BIKINGAROUNDKRAKÓW
By Angel Lopez Peiro
By Michał J. Steckiw
FEATURE
FEATURE
TOURISM
BUSINESS
BUSINESS LIVING
DOWN IN ONE?THE DELIGHTS OF POLISH VODKA
INSIGHT FOR BUSINESS TOURISM AND LIVING
About Think Krakow
Insight for visitors, expats and the international business community in Kraków... Kraków’s cultural and historical heritage is world renowned, and the
city has been a major hot spot on the European travel map for decades.
Today Kraków is becoming an international hub for IT and business
services, with the second highest number of foreign investments and
companies in Poland. Kraków is also the 2014 European City of Sports
and a bidding candidate for the Winter Olympics 2022. In 2013
Kraków became the UNESCO City of Literature. In 2016 the city will
host World Youth Days. Not surprisingly, these developments attracts
an ever increasing number of foreigners who visit and settle in the city.
Think Kraków is the result of a collaboration between a mix of
international and Polish residents who bring insight into life in Kraków
beyond the obvious tourist attractions: living, working and doing
business in the city.
Learn about the latest developments, discover hidden treasures off the
beaten track and find out what the city can offer newcomers – from
recommended restaurants and bars to museums and gyms. Read
interviews with local expats and foreign business people or follow in
the footsteps of Pope John Paul II, Steven Spielberg, Celine Dion, Fidel
Castro, Roman Polanski, Lenny Kravitz and other famous visitors.
Kraków is riding on the crest of a wave – read this issue to get the most
out of your Kraków experience.
Michal Steckiw
Chief Editor. Think Kraków“Florianska Street by night , Kraków.” Photograph by Radoslaw Piekarz
3 www.thinkkrakow.com3 www.thinkkrakow.com
Click on a nametag of interest for related articles and reviews.
Małopolska Garden of ArtsKarma on Krupnicza Street
Blonia common
Choco Cafe Hotel Copernicus *****
Hotel Sheraton *****
Hotel Andels ****
Rynek - Main Market Square
Galeria Krakowska
The Royal Castle on The Wawel Hill Manggha
ICE Congress Centre
Unsound Festival at Forum
Kładka Footbridge
Stare Podgórze
Former Jewish Ghetto created by Nazi Gemany in WW II
MOCAK
Schindler’s Factory
ZabłocieKazimierz
Pod Wawelem restaurant
The Royal Route
Main Railway Station & Underground tramway
Nowa Huta
Browar Lubicz
Cracovia Business Centre
Wiślane Tarasy
Galeria Kazimierz
Dajwór Street
Krakow Arena
Valparaiso restaurant
Map | Menu | Editorial | Business | Tourism | Krakow Living | Highlights | We Recommend | Gallery
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Map | Menu | Editorial | Business | Tourism | Living | Highlights | We Recommend | GalleryOur contributors
Editorial contributionsElisabeth Wojcik
Christian Hamp
Anja Wedberg
Anna Cieśla
Angel Lopez Peiro
Jens Markussen
Hilde Merete Udnaes
Elena Gordeeva-Voot
Salvatore Carfora
Michał Steckiw
Vegard Tverberg
Katarzyna Morzewska
Grzegorz Kałucki
Russell Lack
Derk Zijp
Content quality managerAnja Wedberg
Chief editor & Project managerMichał Steckiw
Design & developmentKamila Jarosz
Monika Karcz
Salvatore Carefora
Thomas Stringe
Michał Steckiw
PhotographyMichał Steckiw
Radosław Piekarz
David Corral
iStock Photography
www.thinkkrakow.comMaking Wakes Polska
ul. Adama Asnyka 9
31-144 Kraków, Poland.
thinkkrakow.com
produced by:
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Map | Menu | Editorial | Business | Tourism | Living | Highlights | We Recommend | GalleryMeet some of our editors
Anja Wedberg
Anja is an expat Swede who moved to Kraków in January 2012, after spending some 12 years in the United Kingdom.
Her professional background is in translation, marketing and web publishing. Anja has an MA in Translation Studies from UCL in London (2010) as well as an MA in English literature from University of Sussex (2000).Anja’s favourite pastimes are karate and taekwondo, although she can also be seen sampling flavoured vodka or drinking Książęce in Kazimierz. She is relentlessly optimistic and refuses to give up on learning Polish.
Michal J. Steckiw
Digital Project Manager and web strategistwith an interest in digital technologies, onlinecommunication and travel photography.A native of Kraków, he lived for many years in Canada (Toronto, Montreal) and the United Kingdom (London) and returned to the city back in late 2012. His professional background includes an MA degree in International Relations, a certificate in project management, and over 7 years of experience in visual communication design and digital industry.In his free time Michal bikes along the Wisła boulevards, enjoys dining out in bohemianKazimierz or wanders around the city to capture charm of its old streets through photography.LinkedIN
Salvatore Carfora
Salvatore is an Italian who decided to move abroad several years ago, to broaden his horizons and get to know other cultures and languages. He attended school of arts in Italy and gained a university degree in advertisement and graphic design. At some point he decided to move to the language business, and started a career in localization and translation for the gaming industry. His next career move brought him to Poland. Kraków is his last destination to date, where he shares his house with his girlfriend, a dog and several bikes. In this edition of Think Krakow, Salvatore shared his insight and tips on biking around the city.LinkedIN
Angel Lopez Peiro
His professional and academic background is related to journalism, translation and teaching English as a foreign language. Originally from Barcelona, Spain, Angel moved to Kraków in April 2011 to work for a technology and design firm as a web content editor for a travel portal. He is interested in Eastern European affairs, from business development, politics, social and cultural life to travel. Since moving to Poland Angel is learning Polish and explores Kraków nightlife and cultural events.
6 www.thinkkrakow.com
Map | Menu | Editorial | Business | Tourism | Living | Highlights | We Recommend | GalleryMeet some of our editors
Jens Markussen
Having finished his education within International Relations in August 2009, Jens moved from Denmark to Kraków with the initial idea of moving on after a few years. On the first day of his new job, however, he met his then future wife. All plans were changed again the folloawing summer when there were two lines on the pregnancy test instead of one. Today, Jens uses his Danish nativity both at work – when editing for a large tourism portal, as well as at home – when raising his daughter. Kraków has become his home. Jens is one of many international residents in a city that keeps attracting a mix of Europeans for study, work or love.LinkedIN
Elisabeth Wójcik
Elisabeth was born and raised in southern Belgium. She decided to move to Kraków after finishing high school, to discover better her country of origin while studying at the university.The first professional experience she gained in communication and translation, was within transition projects in HR and learning administration that eventually lead her to web content and people management. Elisabeth enjoys very much the international environment of Kraków, where Art and Culture are often the reason of unexpected meetings. In her free time, if she is not watching a good movie or testing new vegan recipes, Elisabeth is probably out walking Negra, her dog.
Christian HampChris is a native Austrian from Vienna who, after travelling and living in quite a few countries, was caught by Kraków´s lively culture & nightlive in October 2011. His professional and academic background meanders along the subjects of media management, journalism and public relations. In his sparetime Chris tries to spend as mu ch as time possible on reading about tourism and destinations, planning trips and travelling around the world. Despite his interest in other countries and languages, there is still a lot of room for improvement when it comes to his Polish language skills (he knows that Think Kraków doesn´t count as an excuse). If Chris is not working or travelling, there is a fair chance to find him in some café or bar in Kazimierz.LinkedIN
Vegard TverbergVegard is a Norwegian whose holiday to Kraków seven years ago had a life-changing effect. Impressed by the city’s heritage he decided to move here permanently with his wife.
Vegard is a licensed Kraków city guide and runs the Sviatovid Guiding Tour firm. He has been working as an accountant for twelve years, but it is his role as a guide that brings out his true personality; a teacher, an entertainer and a polemic. In his free time he loves nature; running along the Wisła River, hiking in the Tatra Mountains or going cross-country skiing.
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From tourism to technology: Kraków is open for international business
Kraków ‘s Olympic dream 2022
Visitnorway - an international web project delivered by a multinational team based in Kraków
Making Waves: eight years of local digital success
Going global: Kraków as a top IT & outsourcing hub
Is it easy for a foreigner to open small business in Kraków?
Career opportunities in Kraków
Kraków’s royal route: Photogallery
Kraków & Warsaw: a tale of two capitals.
Down in one? Discover the delights of Polish vodka
Hidden treasures: off the beaten track
A day in communist Kraków: in the footsteps of Lenin and Fidel Castro
The seven wonders of Kraków
Gyms and fitness Shopping centres
Cafes: Indulge in a Kraków style coffee
Restaurants
Museums
Accommodation
Bars: Just a flavour from a never-ending list
Kids entertainment: Also for grown-ups
Events and festivals
Networking Events
Culture: Theatres, Music, CinemasPlac Nowy and the heart of Kazimierz
Dajwór street in Kazimierz
ARS: Kraków Artistic Cinema Centre
Karma coffee roaster
Schindler’s Factory museum
‘Pod Wawelem’: The Habsburg in a Polish beer tent
Cupcake Corner Bakery
Kraków’s lifeblood: the Wisła river
Choco Cafe
Kraków’s districts at glance
Kraków and 21st century architecture
10 ways to get around Kraków: from horses to underground tramway
Biking around Kraków
Fitness first: stay fit in Kraków
Cool apartments at the right price: Kraków is the buyer’s market. For now.
Frania Cafe and Laundrette
Editorial features We recommend
Tourism
Business
Krakow living
Highlights
From tourism to technology: Kraków is open for international businessby Michał Steckiw
Kraków 2022: The Olympic dreamby Jens Markussen
Case study: Visitnorway travel portal delivered by a multinational team based in Kraków.by Angel Lopez Peiro and Russell Lack
Editorial features
Map | Menu | Editorial | Business | Tourism | Krakow Living | Highlights | We Recommend | Gallery
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From tourism to technology:
Kraków is open for international business
Editorial Features
Modern office development along the Wisła River in Kraków’s city centre, with many international firms
After returning from London,
Michal explores how Kraków changed over
the years.
by Michal J. Steckiw
Kraków is internationally renowned for its heritage, culture and history. It was one of the first cities to be listed as the UNESCO World Heritage Site and has been the main tourist destination in Poland for decades. Since Poland joined the European
Union in 2004, Kraków has also become one of the country’s top destinations for Business Service Centres and IT industry, being listed in the top 10 global list.
In 2012 the city was listed among the
most attractive global cities in a joined
report from the Economist and CITI
Bank. International outsourcing, new
business parks and a candidature for
the Winter Olympics 2022 – Poland’s
second biggest city is emerging as one
of the fastest growing hot spots in
Europe. Today it is the city’s potential
for business that puts Kraków in the
international spotlight, and there
are clear signs that local authorities
and businesses have the vision
and ambition to support further
development.and a long lasting effect.
International Kraków?As the main tourist destination in
Poland, Kraków has seen millions of
visitors exploring the historic streets
around the Rynek square in the old
town and around the Wawel Castle.
In 2012 almost three million people
visited Kraków from abroad. Together
with Warsaw, Kraków has been the
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Kraków became a hub for IT,
business processes outsourcing and digital services. Poland’s Silicon
Valley?
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Cracovia Business Centre
one city in Poland where you hear
foreign languages mixed with Polish
on the streets.
In recent years, however, the city has
also started to attract a new kind of
visitor: business professionals. More
than 3000 foreigners are currently
working in Kraków’s outsourcing
sector.
These new residents have moved here
to work for international companies
like HSBC Bank, IBM, Motorola,
Shell, UPS, Capgemini, Google,
State Street and Hitachi. Kraków has
the second largest concentration of
foreign companies and A-class office
buildings in Poland, after Warsaw.
The office real estate market is
booming driven by growing demand
for A class office rental space.
With a number of strategic
developments underway, the city’s
business infrastructure is catching
up with that of the capital. There is
a number of modern business parks
around the city (Olsza, Zabłocie,
Zabierzów, Płaszów and Bronowice)
serving international companies
relocating to Kraków. The new
projects are under development and
the city council is considering new
locations for office towers along
Powstania Warszawskiego street.
Poland’s Silicon Valley?The explosion of mobile and web-
based technologies has meant that
Western technology companies need
to look further to fill their growing
demand for skilled IT specialists,
and Kraków has a great deal to offer.
There are over 8000 graduates from
IT related studies each year. Further
advantages are relatively low costs of
living and operating businesses plus
excellent flight connections to almost
every country in Europe.
Investors and entrepreneurs from
traditional tech hubs in American
Silicon Valley have shown interest
in Kraków, and many local software
development agencies now serve
a number of clients from the US
and Western Europe. There is also
significant growth in video game
design and development, web
design, mobile applications and
bioinformatics.
In addition there is a high
concentration of digital media
(Poland’s largest web news portals,
are based in Kraków) and an emerging
start-up community.
Consequently, it is not surprising
that a number of IT companies have
opened branches in Kraków in the
last decade, including Google, Cisco,
Nokia, Motorola, Delphi and Making
Waves.
Making Waves, a Norwegian design
and technology company, is an
interesting case in point. They opened
a small outsourcing office in 2005;
today, they are a large development
centre with access to a team of
experienced, qualified developers, IT
specialists and web content producers
serving clients in many European
languages.
One of their flagship projects, Noway’s
official travel portal www.visitnorway.
com, is delivered in nine languages
12 www.thinkkrakow.com
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from Kraków by a multinational team
of digital content specialists.
Last year FIFA chose to collaborate
with Making Waves from their Zurich
based head office. The success story of
Making Waves shows that Kraków has
become an attractive destination not
just for outsourcing, but for setting
up offices with complex international
operations.
Further developmentsApart from the growth in digital
technology related businesses,
several other exciting developments
are currently in process. The city is
building a congress centre to meet
the demand of the international
conference industry. With a central
location just across the river from
the Wawel castle, the centre has the
potential of hosting both business
and academic events from around the
world. The modern, sleek architecture
of the building stands in stark contrast
to the historic old town. On the other
side of the city centre there is a cluster
of cranes constructing a modern
sports arena for large sporting events
and exhibitions. Kraków has already
been named the 2014 European
City of Sports by the European
Commission.
Kraków of the futurePerhaps Kraków’s most exciting
prospect is that the city council and
the Małopolska region, together
with a Slovakian partner, have
applied to host the Winter Olympics
2022. Kraków will compete with
Barcelona, Nice and Oslo to win the
first Olympic event for Poland. The
city’s 10 year investment strategy
was drawn up with the Olympics in
mind and includes a number of bold
developments. The Małopolska region
is modernising the train station and
developing a brand new international
terminal at Kraków’s airport with a
capacity of serving up to eight million
passengers annually.
Now there are plans to construct the
city’s first underground line that will
connect the west and east parts of the
city, the old town and the modern
Kraków deservesto be a cosmopolitan
city recognised for itsbusiness and human
potential.
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business park around Olsza and the
Aquapark leisure centre. By the end
of 2013, the city also plans to launch
a metropolitan rail network that will
connect the Kraków city centre with
the suburbs and surrounding towns.
The Olympic village, high speed rail to
the Tatra mountains and new hotels
will follow. The investment strategy
will further strengthen the Kraków
brand internationally, and after the
success of UEFA 2012 championship,
Poland’s chance to win the Olympic
bid is more likely than ever. We keep
our fingers crossed. Kraków of 2022
deserves to be a real cosmopolitan
international city recognised not only
for its history and heritage but also for
business and human potential.
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Kraków has fewer than one million inhabitants, but it sure knows how to dream like one that has ten. The city’s wildest dream to date is the bid to host the 2022 Winter Olympics. Is this dream realistic? We have looked into the idea’s strengths and weaknesses, opportunities and threats. This project has a promising potential.
The success of the UEFA EURO 2012
proved to the world that Poland has
what it takes to organise a large-scale,
international sporting event. While
Kraków failed in its bid to become one
of the hosts during the EURO 2012,
the city is now determined instead to
become an Olympic city. During the
16 days of the Olympic Games, around
3,000 athletes would come here to
participate in almost 100 winter sport
competitions – from curling and ice
hockey to alpine and freestyle skiing –
their struggles reported to more than
230 television and radio broadcasters
in 220 countries.
But wait, I hear you say – there are
no mountains in Kraków! Well, there
were no mountains in Turin in 2006
either, and that didn’t stop the Italians
from submitting a successful Olympic
bid. The competitions that take place
in mountains would be organised
in Zakopane, Poland’s most famous
winter destination 100 kilometres to
the south of Kraków, and in Chopok,
across the border in Slovakia.
Editorial Features
Jens, a Danish resident of Kraków investigates the
pros and cons of Kraków’s Olympic dream. Is Poland
going to host its first Olympic games in the near
future?
Kraków 2022:
The Olympic dream
by Jens Markussen
14 www.thinkkrakow.com
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Kraków’s bid is officially supported
by the Polish and Slovakian
governments, the Marshall of the
Małopolskie region, and, not least,
by both the president of the Olympic
Committee of Poland and his
Slovakian counterpart. The event is
an opportunity to further strengthen
regional cooperation and development
and contribute to promoting winter
sports in the two countries. The
Olympic legacy is also likely to
have a positive impact on Kraków’s
international branding and a long-
lasting effect on international tourism,
the so-called Barcelona ‘92 effect.
So, what are the chances of Kraków’s
dream coming true?
The international broadcasting
centre and pressroom already has a
dedicated venue at the top modern
ICE conference centre that is due to
open in 2014. As for the opening and
closing ceremonies, initial speculation
suggests that Wisła Stadium, located
in Kraków and with a seating capacity
of 33,000, would be the most suitable
of existing venues.
Editorial Features
Winter Olympics on the horizon?The success of UEFAEURO 2012 provedto the world thatPoland has what
it takes to organisea large-scale,international
sportingevent
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istock Photo: Winter Olympic Games in Vancouver, Canada, 2010
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Kraków Arena under construction , east of city center. When completed in 2014 the modern venue will host both large sports and entertainment events, including World Valleyball Championship.
The figure skating and short track
events would unfold at the new ice
arena (scheduled for completion in
2014). The curling teams, meanwhile,
would slide their stones and sweep
their brooms at another ice rink under
construction.
Building a third ice rink for the ice
hockey games may be over the top
for a city of Kraków’s size. An option
would be perhaps to construct an
arena with 15,000 seats in the nearby
city of Katowice/Sosnowiec instead.
It is also likely that Slovakia, with
a considerably stronger ice hockey
tradition than Poland, would want a
piece of the action.
The cross-country events are to be
held in Zakopane, and the beautiful
Tatra Mountains would form the
spectacular backdrop for all biathlon
and ski jumping competitions.
Zakopane has already applied to
host the 2019 FIS Nordic World
Ski Championship, which would
require either the construction of new
facilities or reconstruction of existing
venues. The slopes of Jurgowie, 20
km away, will see snowboarders race,
jump and battle for medals.
The location for speed skating and
tracks for luge and bobsledding are
critical topics still to be addressed,
as there are no existing arenas – and
the building of appropriate venues
for these sports is traditionally the
highest cost of any Winter Olympic
budget. In particular, the highly
specialised construction of a bobsled
track is a logistical and financial
headache. According to recent
discussions, a possible location is
Myślenice, 30 km south of Kraków.
The major obstacle in terms of venues,
however, is the alpine and freestyle
disciplines. There is nowhere in
Poland that could meet the Olympic
requirements for either of these
competitions. Therefore, they would
have to be held in the Slovakian skiing
resort of Chopok, 150 kilometres
south of Zakopane, the stumbling
block being the fact that the IOC (the
International Olympic Committee)
prefers the events to be hosted by the
same country.
Add to this the need for up to three
Olympic Villages, and the dream
becomes somewhat more distant.
InvestmentsThe Winter Olympics would
most certainly generate similar
infrastructural improvements that
Warsaw and the other host cities of
EURO 2012 benefited from.
Several investments are already well
underway, for example an upgrade
of the airport in Balice, Poland, just
outside of Kraków. There are plans
to improve public transportation
including the city’s first underground
subway line.
Kraków will face fierce
competition with expected bids
coming from Almaty, Beijing, Oslo, and
Lviv.
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Another necessary investment is
an upgrade to the transportation
system between the three Olympic
host centres, most importantly a
motorway from Kraków to Zakopane
– the existing Zakopianka road
is notoriously dreaded by drivers
heading south – and further to
Slovakia, where the high Tatra
Mountains provide a natural obstacle
for the construction of decent,
fast roads between Poland and
Slovakia. In addition, the regional
and local governments are planning
to construct a high-speed train that
would connect the future Olympic
Park (the AWF Park) with Kraków’s
railway station and Old Town.
Identifying venues and infrastructure
improvements is one thing; financing
the event is a different matter. It is
expected that the IOC will reimburse
up to 40% of the costs and that 20%
of the remaining budget will be
paid by Slovakia, corresponding to
the percentage of events to be held
there. Sponsors would make further
contributions, and some costs would
probably be reimbursed through EU
funds. Still, the cities involved would
be left with a hefty bill, notably for
infrastructure development and the
building of new arenas. Preliminary
official estimates show expenses of
around EUR 1.5 billion, a figure that is
likely to grow as the event approaches.
Having said that, it is not necessary to
go on a spending spree like 2014 hosts
Sochi in Russia (Sochi has already
spent EUR 37 billion – considerably
more than the cost of the much larger
summer Olympics held in Beijing
2008 and London 2012). As we have
seen, many venues are already being
constructed and the development of
the infrastructure is in process.
EnvironmentAlthough Kraków faces fierce
competition from cities such
as Stockholm, Oslo, Beijing &
Zhangjiakou, Almaty and Lviv one of
the biggest challenges lies within the
city of Kraków itself: the thick layer
of smog that covers the city in the
winter. The organisers of the bid have
made it known, however, that they
will fight to improve the air quality in
the city. This is a positive legacy that
would be enjoyed after the Olympic
circus has left the region, and highly
appreciated by both citizens and
tourists.
Keep dreamingMountains, finances and smog aside
– a clear advantage of the bid is the
fact that the region has never hosted
the Olympics before. It would be the
first Olympics not only in the Tatra
Mountains, but the first in Poland.
This is something the IOC pays great
attention to, and, according to the
organisers of the bid, is Krakow’s
largest advantage.
All things considered, we find it
justified to keep dreaming about the
Olympic flag flying over Kraków’s
main square Rynek.
Editorial Features
A shortlist ofcandidate cities
will be presentedin the summer of2014, before the
IOC makes the finaldecision in July
2015
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The Tatra Mountains in southern Poland: A skiing paradise
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Visitnorway travel portal delivered by a multinational team in Kraków
One of the global travel industry´s most recognized and celebrated sites is Norway´s national tourism portal – Visitnorway.com. What is less well known is that many of the different language versions are delivered from Kraków. Specifically, from the newly renovated Ulica Asnyka
9, just around the corner from the Planty Park surrounding the UNESCO-protected Old Town.
In this elegant 19th century building
are the Polish offices of leading
Norwegian digital consultancy
Making Waves. Many of the 20 strong
Content Services team are based here,
and work daily with adaptation and
localization of web content into 11
different language versions.
This team of web editors are a truly
international group, hailing from
Austria, Spain, Denmark, Sweden,
Belgium, Russia, Italy and of course
Poland. VisitNorway is a good
example of how virtualization works
in practice, with a core team in Oslo,
Norway producing English and
Norwegian versions of the portal,
and then a complex web of digital
workflows managing daily tasks
across the whole team.
For local online campaigns in the
different national markets, each
Kraków-based editor also collaborates
closely with the Marketing manager
of Innovation Norway, located in
the respective country they are
responsible for.
Editorial Features
Can you actually learn about a country simply by
visiting an internet site and choosing one of its
many language versions? Angel explores how a
multinationam team from Kraków delivers content for a well known travel
portal.
by Angel Lopez Peiro
Visitnorway portal editorial team in Kraków.
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How did it all start?In 2011 Innovation Norway, the
Norwegian government’s official
trade and tourism body, and owner
of the Visitnorway portal, decided
to outsource the content production
activities that established early
versions of the portal.
Making Waves were the existing
supplier of design and technology
services to the portal and took
over the existing content team,
transferring their employment.
Whilst this covered English and
Norwegian languages, there was also
an agreement to establish the portal in
a number of other key languages, and
Kraków (where Making Waves already
had an office) was chosen as the
place to localize these services. Since
then, the team has expanded to cover
even more languages as well as some
other day to day support activities for
VisitNorway as well as a number of
regional tourist bodies in Norway.
Editorial Features
..a truly international
group, hailing fromAustria, Spain,
Denmark, Belgium,Sweden, Russia, Italy
and Poland.
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The Kraków team
In May 2011 four editors from Poland,
Spain, Italy and Russia joined Making
Waves and the Visitnorway project
in Kraków. The following month an
editor from Belgium came on board to
be responsible for the French version,
in October it was turn for an editor
from Austria in charge of the German
version, and in January and February
2012 two editors from Sweden and
Denmark arrived. Finally a Dutch
editor joined in September.
During the first months as the
multilingual team in Content Services
was being built, the translations and
text production that could not be yet
handled internally were ordered either
from a translation agency in Kraków
or received directly from Innovation
Norway in some cases. Today, all the
translations and text productions
needed for the 11 language editions
are handled internally at Making
Waves office in Kraków, including
from this July, Russian language
services.
The editors hired by Making Waves
to work in Kraków all have previous
experience and relevant backgrounds
as web editors, journalists, linguists,
PR and marketing management,
graphic design, web strategy,
international relations and tourism
in Poland, or, in most cases, their
country of origin. Some of the
editors were found using recruitment
services; others responded to online
job advertisements and applied
directly from their home countries, or
locally in Kraków.
Making Waves have managed to
establish a truly multinational team
with cultural and business experience
that covers every major European
market. Employing native editors
who are not only digitally skilled, but
passionate about travel, and sensitive
to the needs of travellers from their
own country has been a crucial part
of the project´s success over the
last three years. Innovation Norway
renewed their commitment to Making
Waves Content Services team for a
further 2 years from the start of this
year.
Work processes
Visitnorway editors in Kraków create
and update editorial content that
is localized from the international
version (Visitnorway.com). This
includes creating campaign content
for the local versions that promote
regions of Norway, activities. Editors
are also responsible for local versions
of the media and press pages of
the portal. The team of editors in
Kraków not only works with text
but also image selection, edition
and optimization, tagging of pages,
banners and video conversion and
encoding.
Every time a new page is created or
modified on the .com version the team
in Kraków is assigned a task to create
or change the content in the same way
on the local editions but localized to
the different markets for tourism to
Norway.
Editorial Features
Making Waves’ editors for Visitnorway are passionate about travel and digital communication
Visitnorway’s editorsin Kraków create
and update editorialcontent in manylanguages for the
Norwegian portal.
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When translating, the team in
Kraków uses Wordfast, a professional
translation software that helps ensure
quality and consistency throughout
the website, and across different
languages. The editors in Kraków play
a significant role in helping to evolve
content in the international version.
Making Waves’ editors in Kraków
work directly with Innovation Norway
regional offices located in London,
Moscow, New York, Paris, The
Hague, Madrid, Milan, Stockholm,
Copenhagen, Hamburg and Warsaw
to deliver effective campaigns
promoting various destinations
and tourism activities. Each local
Innovation Norway office is able to
create targeted campaigns to specific
audience segments. Campaigns can
be multimarket, and therefore multi-
language, or designed for single
markets. Campaigns are also seasonal.
Winter campaigns on Visitnorway
editions may focus on activities such
as visiting the northern lights, dog or
reindeer sledging, winter sports, or
promote special or unique places to
stay. Summer campaigns generally
promote summer activities such as
fjord cruising, sightseeing, kayaking,
hiking in Fjord Norway, Northern
Norway, Oslo and other regions of
Norway.
The editors for Visitnorway at Making
Waves Polska are also skilled in search
engine optimization, an increasingly
important part of managing content
on the web. Each web editor
periodically attends trainings,
seminars and prestigious courses on
translation, content management,
content strategy, SEO and web
analytics in Poland and abroad. Web
analytics reporting provides local
markets with an important feedback
on the performance of marketing
campaigns, as well as steering how
the site´s content should be tweaked
and adapted to better meet the
needs shown in users’ behaviour and
interaction with the site.
Editors are also responsible for the
lifecycle of content on the various
language editions of the portal. The
team of editors follow QA routines
designed to maintain content quality
and relevance at as high a level as
possible.
Visitnorway evolves in KrakówThe portal received a front page
facelift in October 2012, which allows
much more flexibility with new
embedded functionality such as full
screen slides, videos, maps. Since
September 2013, new page templates
make it easier for local language
editors to optimize campaigns for
their individual markets. The new
campaign template offers a richer
interface, gives campaign partners
better visibility and includes together
integration with the accommodation
booking engine that is a part of the
portal, so driving higher conversion
rates.
The editors have also been working
on a new template for reporting web
traffic trends, in order to provide more
detailed feedback on campaigns in the
various international markets.
Visitnorway can be accessed online in 12 different languages
Making Waves: Eight years of local digital successby Angel Lopez Peiro feat. Hans Olav
Going global: Kraków as a top IT andoutsourcing hubInterview with Andrew Hallam (ASPIRE)
Making money in Kraków - how friendly is the city to foreign entrepreneurs?by Angel Lopez Peiro
Business
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Career Opportunities in Kraków
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Making Waves:
Eight years of digital success from Kraków
Business
The Norwegian technology & design consultancy Making Waves has been operating in Kraków with great success since 2005. The Polish branch has undergone significant growth regarding the number of employees and international projects. Making Waves Polska’s history began at an old building on Zyblikiewicza Street, then transitioned to Wygoda Street, and later moved to the Kraków Business Park in Zabierzów, 10 km from the city centre. Since January 2013, the company has been located in its own fully renovated heritage building on Asnyka Street. As a result, approximately 80 employees
work just a stone’s throw from Kraków’s beautiful Old Town.
Making Waves showcases what the city can provide foreign companies. For insight on this matter, as well as understanding how the company was established and developed in Kraków, there is nothing better than talking to Hans Olav Hellem - Director of People & Processes at Making Waves Group. From 2008-2009, he held the position of managing director at Making Waves Polska in Kraków. He lived in the city for over a year and
keeps traveling to Kraków very often.
Think Krakow: Why Poland and why Kraków? What led a Norwegian digital consultancy like Making Waves to open an office in Kraków, Poland?
by Angel Lopez Peiro
We saw huge potential after
Poland joined the EU, as we expected
Poland and Kraków would develop a lot.
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Hans Olav Hellem
23 www.thinkkrakow.com
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HANS OLAV: Back in the early
2000s, Making Waves was a small
company in Norway with limited
funding. Our main concern was
hiring skilled people and experts. We
thought that it would be easier to find
customers in Norway than finding
skilled staff, especially developers.
Hiring skilled specialists in the IT
sector was difficult in Norway in the
period 2002-2005.
Why did we look at Poland? The
truth is that everything started when
we read a magazine article about
Poland. It indicated that Norwegian
companies coming to operate in
Poland would receive funding from
the Norwegian government. Poland
was to be a key country in receiving
contributions from the EU and
Norway. As a result, we decided to
arrange a meeting with the Norwegian
embassy in Warsaw, whereupon we
met with a trade attaché. Creating an outsourcing base for
Making Waves in Warsaw was our
first idea. In autumn 2004, Innovation
Norway, part of the Norwegian
Embassy, provided us with a three-
day tour of Warsaw. It was my first
time in a former Eastern Bloc country.
Warsaw was much bigger than we
expected, much more expensive than
what we initially thought (real estate
prices were too high for us), and
we learned that people in Warsaw
generally change jobs quite often.
The embassy then suggested we
consider Kraków, where their embassy
staff knew some real estate agents.
So we took the train from Warsaw to
Kraków. When we first arrived and
entered the Rynek (Market Square),
we felt this city seemed more suitable
for us. The Palace of Culture in
Warsaw did not feel friendly, whereas
the walk from the railway station to
the Rynek along Floriańska Street
was very appealing. We learned
about the city’s seemingly endless
supply of universities, the lower costs
as compared to Warsaw, and that
people do not change jobs as often as
in Warsaw. We agreed that Kraków
would be a better fit should we move
to Poland and set up an outsourcing
base. We spent some time looking at
buildings and office space.
We had several concerns in Kraków.
The buildings were in poor condition
outside of Rynek, and we wanted to
work in a building near Market Square
because we wanted to be part of the
development of the city. Another
key issue back then was the lack of
flight connections between Kraków
and Oslo: To fly between Oslo and
Kraków required a connecting flight
in Warsaw. Norwegian began offering
flights between Kraków and Oslo in
late 2005. That was great news for our
company.
We put an ad in Kraków’s local
newspapers, and we hired our first
three employees in Poland. My
Norwegian colleague Asbjørn Vølstad,
currently CTO at Making Waves,
interviewed the candidates. We took
the candidates to Norway, where they
lived for three months in order to help
get to know the Norwegian culture.
They then returned to Kraków.
We saw huge potential after Poland
joined the EU, as we expected Poland
would develop a lot. Not only was it
easier to hire exceptionally skilled
and well-educated IT developers in
Kraków than in Norway, they were
also less expensive to employ. Today,
Making Waves is one of the most
sought-after employers within our
We picked Krakówfor its appealingatmposphere, big
supply of universitiesand lower costs
compared to Warsaw.
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sector in Kraków. This is in a large
part due to our company’s culture, our
dedication to being “one company”
across borders, our terms of
employment, and our positive people
philosophy. T.K.: What was Kraków like when Making Waves settled here? How has the city changed since then?
H.O.: Back in 2005, Kraków was a different city: there were fewer cars, fewer flight connections, and it was visibly an Eastern European city. Now, however, it looks more like a Western city, if you take into account how people dress, the upscale Galeria Krakowska department stores, all the restaurants, the investment, the infrastructure and the business development going on.
People here are now more proud and confident of the development of the city and the country. In addition, Poles with experience from abroad or foreign markets began moving back to Poland and join the local work force, thanks to the fact that there are now many more foreign companies
established in Kraków. In addition, the city is far more foreign-friendly now than eight years ago; there is bilingual signage all around the city and many more people speak English.
T.K.: Would establishing a company in Kraków now be more expensive than back in 2005?
H.O.: Today we could never begin in Kraków like we did then, as we were a very small company and the operating costs are higher in Kraków now. Now it is harder to keep employees, as turnover rate in the sector is very high.
T.K.: What are the main challenges Making Waves has faced in Kraków since moving here?
H.O.: We did not succeed in our pursuit of the Polish market because our price rates were too high for local market. In many cases, price was the main factor for winning clients. We lost some money at the beginning, although we worked on
several interesting projects for Polish customers: Vattenfall Poland, Bank BZ WBK as well as Warsaw City Hall.We experienced many challenges with the renovation of our new office on Asnyka Street. First of all, we had to face the bureaucracy – it took a long time to get permits from the city’s authorities. Another challenge was the business culture with suppliers. Corporate integration also faced a challenge: At the beginning, the Kraków team felt like a B team and the fact that the A team was in Oslo did not help a one-company vision to develop in the Polish office. Fortunately, we successfully overcame this situation over time. Our teams in Oslo and Kraków are now more integrated than in the past.
In the past, some our Scandinavian clients requested that projects utilise project managers and consultants who spoke Norwegian. However, unlike many foreign companies in Kraków, the Making Waves team in Kraków is not simply an outsourcing resource.
Instead, we focus on the competence and availability of highly skilled staff
Business
Kraków is far moreforeign-friendlynow than eight
years ago; there isbilingual signage allaround the city andmany more people
speak English.
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who can build solutions and services to our clients from around the world. It is very common now that even teams based in Norway are comprised of non-Norwegians. Luckily for us, clients are now more accustomed to the international environment and multinational teams, so it is easier to explain to them that the project team is based both in Kraków and Oslo.
T.K.: What has Kraków offered to Making Waves throughout the last 8 years?
H.O.: Kraków has made us an international company. We are able to go with our offer to other countries now, we have an advantage over our Norwegian competitors, and we have more chances to gain international contracts. We now have a Content Services Department that delivers content in nine languages for the Visitnorway portal, which in Norway would have been quite difficult to achieve. As a result of our work in Kraków, we have learned many lessons.
In 2005 outsourcing was the main
idea before moving to Kraków. We developed a new strategy in 2010 that had the motto ‘A great place to work’. Now, at an operational level, both offices are important: the Choice Hotels, FIFA, Visitnorway and Visitoslo projects are run from Kraków.
In Kraków we can have access to highly skilled and specialized people. We can always choose the best people from among numerous candidates when we recruit employees. Another plus of working in Kraków is that we have become a more multicultural company. Our Polish office only has Polish employees but also has staff from Belgium, Austria, Italy, Spain, Sweden, Denmark, Norway, Netherlands, Israel and Russia.
We feel a sense of accomplishment with everything we have achieved in Kraków. Going to Kraków and seeing the office on Asnyka Street and the people working there makes me proud and happy. Norwegian employees are very happy about Kraków and our office here and of course they like the city and love to come here often.
T.K.: What are the plans for Making Waves operations in Kraków?
H.O.: Making Waves wants to expand to other markets. Kraków will be our hub for services to other markets around the world. The company will grow faster in Poland than in Norway, and our goal is to double the size of the company by the end of 2014. In principle, our priority for the Kraków office is hiring system developers, but we are also planning to hire strategy consultants and designers.
These are recruitment processes that
have already begun. See our job offers
on makingwaves.comWe are looking at companies in
Poland and the Polish market, and I
believe that in the near future we will
be more present on the Polish market
as the Polish economy is growing.
TK: What are the main differences between Oslo and Kraków in the business environment regarding public administration?
In Kraków we canhave access to highly
skilled people. We canalways choose the best
ones among manycandidates when werecruit employees.
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H.O.: Red tape is one of the biggest
differences between Norway and
Poland. In Poland there is a stamp
culture: stamps are required on
every document. The agreements are
more complex and need to be signed.
Because of this, all the business
processes are more bureaucratic.
In addition, bureaucrats in Kraków
are not as friendly as in Norway, they
don’t smile, and they still lack the
customer service approach which is
more common in Western Europe.
In comparing Norway and Poland in
this area, there is a lack of electronic
alternatives and e-services that would
make bureaucracy faster and easier.
Furthermore, there is no English
service at the administrative level for
foreign companies in Kraków.
In Norway there are different
criteria for choosing suppliers in
a competition or bidding process;
price is one of them, experience and
ability to deliver are others, whereas
in Poland price is usually the main
factor.
T.K.: Since you moved back to Oslo, what do you miss the most about living in Kraków?
H.O.: I miss the city life in Kraków;
walking on the charming old streets,
going to restaurants and eating in
their beautiful gardens, shopping
in small family-run independent
shops (there are not as many in
Oslo), biking around Kraków and
enjoying the cultural life in Old Town
and Kazimierz. I particularly miss
walking down the Wisła boulevards,
Old Podgórze and along the Kładka
Bernatka pedestrian bridge. I used to
cycle to Nowa Huta, a district I find
very interesting because of its very
distinctive architecture. I must say
that everywhere in Kraków I felt safe
and free to get around.
Red tape is oneof the biggest
differences betweenNorway and Poland.In Poland businessprocesses are more
bureaucratic.
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Going Global:
Kraków as top IT and outsourcing hub.
Angel Lopez Peiro interviews Andrew Hallam from ASPIRE
This year, Kraków entered the top 10 of Tholon’s Established Outsourcing Destinations in the world for the first time, confirming its place as a leading outsourcing centre not only in Europe but on a global scale.
The city’s IT and business process services industry accounts for 27,000 people
employed in 85 outsourcing companies in the city, and one of seven workers in the city’s private sector. 11% of the employees are foreigners, which gives an idea of the international scope of the business processes delivered from Kraków.
With the aim of analysing the current
situation and peeking into the future,
Think Kraków interviewed Andrew
Hallam, founder and general secretary
of ASPIRE (Association of IT &
Business Process Services Companies
in Poland). ASPIRE aims to promote
and develop opportunities within IT
and business process services.
How did Kraków make it to the top 10 destinations in the world for outsourcing?
ANDREW HALLAM: Good fortune
and momentum. There were a number
of fortuitous events, stretching back
many years, which helped to establish
Kraków globally. For example, BP
sold a major project to IBM, and
International Paper another one
to Capgemini, and this meant that
Kraków had two global outsourcing
projects by the year 2000.
In 2013 Kraków advanced to the
top 10 global business processing
outsourcing destinatinations.
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Simultaneously, and the city
authorities deserve to be credited for
this, the first special economic zone
was created here in 1999, allowing
Motorola to establish operations in
the city.
Big brands attract other brands.
Existing businesses became natural
ambassadors and functioned as a
testament that it is safe to locate
to Kraków. What I call Kraków’s
“clientability” is also connected to the
city’s legacy: universities with good
reputations, thousands of students,
the market square, the old town and
the tourism infrastructure.
There were also local IT companies here early on, before the arrival of large, foreign outsourcing companies. Comarch,
for example, a Polish IT company
founded in 1995, has developed
internationally by drawing talent from
AGH (the Academy of Science and
Technology).
Another thing that has benefited
Kraków is the location. With Poland’s
accession to the EU and the open
skies policies, a bunch of airlines
started to operate into Kraków Balice
Airport which made it easy to travel to
Kraków from the rest of Europe. The
migration of Poles in Western Europe
spread the message – Poles were
employed abroad and did a good job.
Companies are often reluctant to
relocate to a new place, but they have
to believe it is possible to maintain
quality. We are developing a new
paradigm in Kraków for the industry.
Once you have operated here for two
years and it works, and the quality of
the people you employ here is really
high, it becomes possible to think
of more complex processes that you
can move to Kraków. Transactional
processes were moved to India but
more complex processes relocated to
Kraków.
The city has many of the qualities
of a capital city without some of the
disadvantages of a capital city. We are
competing for talent in Kraków but
only within our sector, not with other
industries. We have a lower cost base
here, 30% lower than in Warsaw for
instance.
Dublin, as a contrast, has the
disadvantages of a capital city even
though Ireland is a small country.
Nevertheless, Dublin has many of Kraków’s features and a capacity to attract talent from abroad. In this sense, Kraków
has more in common with Dublin
than with Wrocław or Gdansk. Only
cities and locations have this ability
to attract – we cannot talk about
countries.
How can Kraków reach Dublin and enter the top 5?
A.H.: The difference with Dublin
was much bigger in the past than it is
now. Ireland suffered a lot from the
financial crisis in a way that Poland
escaped. Over the last few years,
Dublin has dropped from 4th to 9th
position, whereas Kraków has gone
from 17th to 10th – so the evolution
trends of Kraków and Dublin are
Kraków has more incommon with Dublinthan with Wrocław orGdańsk. This is why it is in the top 10 global
list.
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Cracovia Business Centre: one of the largest A class office space complex in Kraków centre.
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Olsza: a district of Kraków with many outsourcing firms and considerable office spacedevelopment
Kraków Business Park in Zabierzów, on the outskirts of the city
Treimorfa tower & office complex, to be completed in 2015. Source: Verity Development
opposite. I believe that Dublin will
recover at some point, but I am also
sure that Kraków can overtake Dublin
with time.
We need to move forward and reach
out to stakeholders. We need to
raise awareness of the industry and
present the opportunity as a common
vision. The advantage of Dublin is its
proximity to London and better flight
connections. Kraków needs more
effective connections with cities like
Istanbul, Paris, New York, London,
Prague and Dubai. There is no direct
connection with London Heathrow,
for example.
I think sustainability is how we can
overtake Dublin. We have a self-
regulating market where supply meets
demand. We are currently running
out of office spaces and this becomes
opportunity for real estate developers.
Kraków is very competitive compared to many cities in Europe. The momentum I
mentioned earlier makes a difference,
as does the fact that businesses are
taking the lead in Kraków. We are not
lobbying but have rather established
an association around self-help and
mutual support.
We present opportunities instead of
asking others to make them happen.
Promoting the industry and leading
the industry: this is unique. One
reason it works effectively in Kraków
is that the institutions are old and
well established. It would benefit the
industry to cooperate even more with
the city and local society.
What is the growth perspective in terms of job offers in Kraków?
A.H.: We expect an increase of 20-
25% in the number of employees per
year. Over the last couple of years,
companies in our industry have
experienced a growth of 25% new
staff.
We have an ecosystem that supports
complexity and this will enable us
to grow in terms of quality and key
selling.
How did you end up in Kraków? How long have you been in the industry?
A.H.: I first came here in 1988
around Christmas, while I was
working on TV news with Polish
people in London. In 1989 I came
back with Sky News to make a
documentary about a returning Polish
solider, for the 50th anniversary of the
start of World War II.
It was so different from UK; it
was very attractive and I was very
attracted by the people. At that time,
Kraków had hardly any public life
but there was a rich private life that
I found very appealing. I moved here
with my wife in 1995. We built a house
Kraków has many ofthe qualities of a capital
city without some ofthe disadvantages of a
capital city...
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and then I found my way; I started
working for the British Chamber
of Commerce and then I founded
ASPIRE, where I have been working
since 2006.
How has the international perception of Kraków changed over the last decade, in terms of business investments?
A.H.: “Clientability” is what the city
has developed. Kraków has become
more attractive and continental
whilst retaining its own character,
atmosphere and heritage. I think it is
a personal rather than an institutional
thing.
How have salaries, and salary expectations, changed within the industry in Kraków?A.H.: If you look for a trend, you
can see that salaries are rising in line
with inflation and expectations, but
obviously at certain times there is a lot
of demand, and the offered salary will
be higher.
People working in the industry expect
continuously higher rewards, but if
they went to other parts of Europe
they would understand that they
are lucky to be here. It could also be
worth noting that Kraków is not more
expensive than other Polish cities.
Some companies are trying to pull
out the most talented, highly qualified
people for management positions
in other locations in Europe, even
though it would be cheaper to keep
them here.
If you were elected mayor of Kraków what would you change in the city?
A.H.: Focusing on the business sector, the most important thing is that the industry is included in the vision for Kraków. We
are providing high quality jobs and
delivering value to the city, even
more than the tourism sector. 64%
of employees in our industry are
graduates from local universities. The
City Council needs to recognise our
role and fund certain initiatives.
If we translate this into actions:
There ought to be a master plan to build a central business district, which would facilitate
locating people.
Transport infrastructure – there is
a good public transport network in
Kraków, but it could be developed to
take into account the needs of people
who commute to work at the big
business centres.
We need to improve the airport. I
am aware that they are working on
it already with the construction of
the new terminal, but we also need
to improve the connections from the
airport.
The city administration should support Kraków in becoming a more international city. We
need more English in the paperwork
processes.
For too long, Kraków was fading away, and this is still
The city administrationshould support Kraków
in becoming a moreinternational city.
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The dragon: could Kraków’s landmark legend become a symbol of the city’s new economic performance?
reflected in the mentality of many people. Local people are not
necessarily aware of how Kraków is
getting an international image. We
need to recover a degree of confidence
in the potential of the city from
our mayor, and promote Kraków
positively but aggressively. I would
like to see more promotion of the
dragon as a symbol of Kraków, for
example. It is a powerful image and
we can draw out the symbolism to
build a future.
We also need to organize more
international festivals; most of the
festivals in Kraków are too provincial
and only of interest for Polish people.
Kraków could learn from Edinburg
how to promote what is happening
in the city. The organizers of festivals
here have a lot to learn. Many local
cultural institutions take their
audience for granted; they think it is
95% Catholic white Polish but it is in
fact much more diverse.
I love the potential of the city. Kraków is a work in progress
built on its legacy. However, the
City Council needs to understand
its role as one of many players in
Kraków, not the most important one.
What do you like the most about living in Kraków?
A.H.: I love the atmosphere and
the way the city is laid down, so
that everything radiates from the
market square. When I arrived here
for the first time very few people
had a telephone and instead the
market square Rynek functioned as
a communication centre. Kraków is a living museum with a living history. The statue of Adam Mickiewicz on
the market square, for example, is not
only a statue but a key meeting point
for people.
What do you think about Kraków bidding for Winter Olympics? Is it a worthy investment?
A.H.: I think sporting events like
this can benefit the city. Whether the
Winter Olympics is the right event
I don’t know, but everything that is
about building experience can benefit
the city and the industry. The 2012
UEFA EURO cup in Poland and
Ukraine was a great opportunity for
such an experience and it was a pity
that Kraków was not selected as a
venue. Still, Kraków’s role as team
base camp was very successful.
How do you see Poland’s economic future?
A.H.: I think Poland’s future is bright, mainly because of its location between Russia and Germany. Geopolitically it is great
to be on the border of the EU – also in
terms of trade with the United States.
However, this can also bring dangers
in the future as it happened in the
past.
If the rest of Poland can learn from Kraków in terms of international success, the country will thrive economically.
Kraków could learnfrom Edinburg, for
example, how topromote what is
happening in the city.
“
“
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Making money in Kraków – how friendly is the city to foreign entrepreneurs?
by Angel Lopez Peiro
One might think that a difficult foreign language, a different business culture, rents and bureaucratic procedures are reasons to prevent foreign entrepreneurs from developing their
business ideas in Kraków. Not everyone, however, is deterred by challenges and many have managed to start successful, local businesses. A good example is 34-year-old Alejo Torreblanca Leiva from Chile. He an experienced chef who opened the Spanish restaurant Valparaíso, named after his home region, in the trendy quarter of Kazimierz inAugust 2012.
How did you end up in Kraków?
I met my wife, who is Polish, when I
lived in Barcelona. I had been living in
Spain since 1998.
We moved to Kraków in March 2012,
when we were expecting a baby,
so that we would be closer to her
parents. I worked as a cook in the
Argentinian-Czech restaurant Diego i
Bohumil until I decided it was time to
invest our savings and start my own
business. In August 2012 one of my
dreams came true when Valparaíso
started serving Spanish food and
wine.
How would you describe the process of opening a business in Kraków, compared to Spain or Chile?
It is cheaper, and now it is also
easier, to start a business in Poland
compared to Spain. Everything
is expensive in Spain, even small
repairs and improvements for your
restaurant. However, in Spain it
takes less time to recover the initial
investment, if the restaurant is going
well – or at least this was the case
Valparaiso restaurant in Kazimierz quarter
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until recently.
In Chile running this kind of business
would involve more expenses because
you need to spend a lot of money
on safety systems (alarms, cameras,
security officers and insurance).
How did you overcome the language barrier?
Luckily my wife could help me
with the paperwork and other
administrative tasks.
Would you have managed to open your restaurant without your Polish wife?
It would have been much more
difficult without her. The language is
definitely one of the biggest obstacles
for foreign entrepreneurs in Kraków.
In order to handle the paperwork and
commercial activities, you need help
from people who speak Polish. Even
writing the menu on the blackboard
is a challenge without my Polish
assistants.
How friendly is Kraków for foreigners? How friendly is Kraków for running a small business?Kraków is very friendly, both for
foreigners and for running a small
business. I have never had any
problems here. I guess it depends on
the sector but at least in the hotel and
catering sector, Kraków is a great city.
Of course the success of your business
in Kraków will depend on your
philosophy and way of doing things.
Generally, in Poland things work fast,
much faster than in Spain and Chile.
People here are committed and work
hard.
I think one of the main challenges for
those who want to start a business in
the city is the high rents, especially
in the Old Town and in the trendiest
areas of Kazimierz such as Plac Nowy.
Those who own commercial property
in the touristic areas are making very
good business.
What is your worst experience in dealing with Polish authorities?
I don’t have many complaints about
the Polish authorities, although I
experienced a corruption case once.
A health inspector who came to my
restaurant for an inspection made up
a fault (related to one of my freezers
being open at a particular moment)
and forced me to pay her PLN 150 to
avoid an official fine.
What are the main cultural differences between Chile, Spain and Poland that forced you to adjust your living style and way of working?
As I said, things generally work
much faster here than in Spain and
Chile, and employees are committed,
responsible and honest. I would also
like to point out that people in Poland
do not complain as much as in Spain.
A problem I encounter when I serve
the lunch menu is that some of my
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customers are in a hurry and I want
my guests to enjoy their food and wine
calmly, without rushing.
How do you promote the restaurant in Kraków?
I promote the restaurant through
our website and above all, through
our Facebook page. But the best
promotion is to cook well and
offer a good service, so that your
customers say positive things about
the restaurant after eating here. Most
people come to my restaurant because
a friend recommended it to them.
I also had some unexpected and free
advertising when Wojciech Nowicki,
a renowned food critic, came to the
restaurant last September and wrote
a flattering review for Gazeta.pl. In
the following weeks, the restaurant
experienced a dramatic increase of
customers even if the effect was not
long-lasting.
Do you meet up with other foreigners, Spaniards or South Americans in Kraków?
I meet with other foreigners,
Spaniards and South Americans from
time to time, in the weekly language
exchange meeting called Café Madrid
and the Latin music club El Sol, but I
also have friends from other countries
like Italy, Portugal and Angola.
What do you enjoy the most about living in Kraków?
One of them is the tranquillity.
Kraków is a calm and peaceful city,
especially compared to Barcelona. I
also like that things work well here
and that Polish people are committed
to what they do.
I live in Wieliczka, which is a very
beautiful town. It is great to be able
to combine the beauty and calm of
Wieliczka with Kraków, where I spend
most of my time due to work.
If you were elected mayor of Kraków, what would you change in the city?
I would try to solve the air pollution
issue – sometimes when I walk
around Kraków there is a strong
smell of coal, and when I drive from
Wieliczka to Kraków in the winter I
can see a thick layer of pollution over
the city.
What do you think about Kraków bidding for Winter
Olympics and how do you think it would affect a small business like yours?
I think it is a great idea. Kraków would
definitely benefit from organising
such an important event as the Winter
Olympics.
Barcelona is a modern city and a
popular tourist destination thanks
to the promotion related to the 1992
Summer Olympics. Hosting the
Olympics would increase the number
of visitors to Kraków from around
the world and this would result in
increased revenue for hotels, bars,
clubs and, of course, restaurants like
Valparaíso.
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User experience & Graphic design Project Management
Web Technology Web Content Services
at: Making Waves
at: Making Waves
With a growing number of international companies operating from Kraków, there are plenty of work opportunities for both Polish residents and expats. The IT and business processing outsourcing sectors offer a wide range of positions for professionals speaking English or other languages. Many jobs do not require Polish language skills.
When looking for a job in Kraków, a good place to start is of course the internet and websites such as Linkedin.com, recruitment agencies like devonshire.pl, cpljobs.pl and HAYS, or the local site pracuj.pl (only in Polish but with ads and some information in English).
For opportunities within the IT industry, it is a good idea to monitor the job boards at companies like wirtualnemedia.pl, interaktywnie.com, ASPIRE jobs and makingwaves.pl.
Making Waves regularly employs web professionals from Poland and abroad. Their Kraków office currently has staff from the UK, Austria, Italy, Spain, Belgium, the Netherlands, Sweden, Norway, Denmark and Russia.
Business
Career opportunities in KrakówHere is a sample listing of typical positions available in Kraków for English speaking professionals in the digital industry.
Graphic Designer
Interaction Designer
at: Making Waves at: Making Waves
at: Making Waves at: Making Waves
at: Making Waves at: Making Waves
at: Making Waves at: Making Waves
at: Making Waves at: Making Waves
at: Making Waves
Sharepoint Developer English - GermanTranslator & Copywriter
Senior .NET Developer Native English WebCopywriter
Front-end Developer Dutch Web Editor
.NET Developer Senior Project Manager
Web Developer Swedish Native WebEditor - Freelace Contract
Junior Developer inExtended Support team
36 www.thinkkrakow.com
TourismKraków’s royal route: A photogallery
Kraków & Warsaw: A tale of two capitalsby Michał Steckiw
Down in one? Discover the delights of Polish vodkaby Anja Wedberg
Top 5 hidden treasures: Kraków off the beaten trackby Jens Markussen
A day in Communist Kraków: In the footstepsof Lenin and Fidel Castroby Angel Lopez Peiro
Vegard recommends: The seven wonders of Krakówby Vegard Tverberg
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by Michal J. Steckiw
From castles to skyscrapers, Poland’s two major cities offer an entirely different experience. Enjoy Kraków for its bars and restaurants located on magical old streets below the city’s gothic and renaissance heritage landmarks. Jump on a train
to Warsaw to explore Poland’s vibrant, colourful and cosmopolitan capital and to see how the country developed from the ashes of War World II to become one of the world’s new globalized economies.
In many countries, one can find two
major metropolitan cities competing
with each other in the In many
countries, one can find two major
metropolitan cities competing with
each other in the areas of economic
activity, human development, cultural
heritage, and internationalization:
Barcelona and Madrid (Spain),
Montreal and Toronto (Canada),
Melbourne and Sydney (Australia),
Berlin and Frankfurt (Germany), and
Moscow and St Petersburg (Russia).
Poland and its key cities have become
more globalized. According to the
latest Ernst & Young ranking (2012
Globalization Index), Poland is now
the 27th most globalized economy,
surpassing even Italy, South
Korea and Japan. So now a closer
examination of the branding and
development of Poland’s two major
cities becomes even more interesting:
Warsaw (capital and economic centre
of Poland) and Kraków (former
capital and seat of Polish royalty).
Kraków was the capital of Poland until
the mid-17th century, when King Jan
III Waza moved his seat to Warsaw.
Kraków, however, remained the main
royal residence, the place where all
monarchs were crowned and buried
in the royal cathedral on Wawel Hill.
Warsaw flourished in subsequent
centuries, whereas the role of Kraków,
still referred to as Royal Capital City
of Kraków, diminished. The political,
economic and cultural heart of the The National Stadium in Warsaw, built for the EUFA 2012 championship
Kraków and Warsaw:
A tale of two capitals
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The royal castle on the Wawel Hill in Kraków - Poland’s Acropolis
Rynek - the main market square in Kraków
nation shifted to the new capital.
After War World II, Kraków became
Poland’s second-largest city, the only
one that did not suffer destruction
following the invasions of Germany
and Soviet Union. Kraków’s Old Town was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The city
became the cultural and academic
heart of Poland, at the time when
Warsaw was rising to life from the
ashes of destruction.
Warsaw used to be a grey, soulless city similar to many in the former Soviet Union. It became the colourful, vibrant cosmopolitan capital.
When Poland embarked on its
transformation from communism
to a market economy, the capital
of Warsaw was still quite a grey,
soulless city, similar to many in
the former Soviet Union. Since the
fall of the communism, both cities
have experienced an enormous
transformation; ever since Poland
joined the EU, investment has
exploded even further. Both cities
took different development directions.
Kraków focused on renovating its historic districts and heritage landmarks, strengthening its academic centres, and developing strong IT and digital industries.
It was referred to as the tourist and
cultural heart of Poland, home of the
former Pope John Paul II and the
religious soul of the nation. In the
1990s, local authorities and elites
focused on the city’s existing strong
brand and its position rather than
visioning its future development.
At the same time, Warsaw became one of the fastest growing economies of any city in Europe. Its skyline was filled with a range of
modern skyscrapers, and the city was
flooded with international companies
and expats. Thus, the character of
Poland’s most globalized metropolis
has been transformed.
Kraków isintimate, charming
and bohemian.Warsaw becamecosmopolitan,
monumental andmodern.
“
“
Warsaw became one of the fastest growing
economies of any city in Europe.
“
“
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Left: Warsaw’s Old Town was rebuilt after World
War II. Warsaw’s city centre is the economic heart
of Poland and the financial centre of East and
Central Europe.
Right: Central Warsaw is dominated by the Palace of Culture and Science - a “gift” from Stalin to communist Poland
The biggest advantages Kraków holds are its compact size, beauty of its architecture, its reputation around the world.The city is known for its restaurants
and bar scene, its relatively low cost
of living and visiting, and the flood of
young people coming to study each
year.
Warsaw, however, remains the
financial heart both of Poland and the
Central and Eastern European region.
It offers the best opportunities for
virtually every industry, especially for
international companies operating
in the region. Warsaw became a
colourful, dynamic and cosmopolitan
city, whereas Kraków remained first
and foremost a traditional Polish city
with aspirations to be recognized
around the world for its advantages in
tourism, sports, IT and outsourcing.
Warsaw is the first region in
Warsaw is the political, economic and financial
heart of Poland.
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Kraków’s Old Town: A UNESCO World Heritage Site.that attracts over seven million tourists every year
Poland to have been excluded from EU development funds, as the region’s GDP per capita surpassed the 75% EU average. The construction of a second subway
line in Warsaw is leading to a rise
in the number of old and neglected
buildings being revitalized.
It is probably the most American
looking city in Europe, with wide
streets criss-crossing the city, a
typical downtown concentration of
skyscrapers, and a large suburban
area.
On the other hand, some of the
reasons why international investors
choose to come to Kraków include
the range of real estate opportunities,
an expanding business services and
IT sector, the emerging digital start-
up community, and its cutting edge
research facilities. In the digital/
IT area, most companies operating
in Kraków focus on international
customers, whereas the ones in
Warsaw operate mostly on the Polish
market.
Warsaw is associated with a fast-paced life, modern architecture, growth, economic development, progress and its increased cultural
impact on the country. Its cultural
output surpasses that of Kraków,
yet Kraków remains Poland’s main
destination for leisure and cultural
tourism.
Kraków remains Poland’s
main destination forleisure and cultural
tourism.
“
“
Key things to seeand explore in...
WarsawThe Warsaw Uprising Museum
The Old Town, the Royal Castle and Nowy Swiat Street
Lazienki Royal Park and Wilanów Palace
Downtown and the Palace of Culture
The National Stadium
Nightlife at Foksal Street
Museum of the history of Polish Jews
The royal route to Wawel Castle
Kazimierz, the Jewish medieval quarter
Schindler’s Factory Museum
Wieliczka Salt Mine
Kraków nightlife in the Old Town,Kazimierz and Old Podgórze
The ‘Kładka’ Bridge andthe banks of the Wisła River
Kraków
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Down in One? Discover the delights of Polish vodka.
by Anja Wedberg
Some of the finest vodka in the world is produced in Poland, and yet, whilst just about everyone has heard of Smirnoff, Finlandia and Absolut, many would probably struggle to name a Polish brand. For visitors, the variety
of the vodka menus you find in most bars can be perplexing. Let us help you find your feet in the vodka wilderness.
The origins of vodka may be obscure,
but it is clear that it has been
produced in Poland for over 500
years. Large-scale vodka production
began at the end of the 16th century,
initially at Kraków.
Today, Poland is one of the largest
vodka producers in the world (along
with Russia, Lithuania and Ukraine).
One of the main differences between
Russian and Polish vodka is that the
former is usually made from potato,
the latter most often from grains such
as rye. Polish vodkas can be further
divided into clear and flavoured
varieties.
You don’t have to spend many hours
in Poland to see that vodka is an
integral part of Polish culture, history
and society. It is the obvious choice
of drink at any social gathering, most
shops stock an astonishing variety of
brands and every self-respecting bar
has a separate vodka menu.
So where does one start? We went to
Kraków’s eminent Wódka bar and café
to learn from the experts.
My first choice at the Wódka bar is a
shot of Zubrówka Palona, a variety
of Poland’s biggest export brand.
While standard Zubrówka is distilled
with bison grass that gives it a pale
amber colour and a slightly sweet
flavour, the less known Zubrówka
Palona is a brown vodka with more
than a hint of cherry, almond and
caramel.
“Down in one, is that how to do it?”
I ask Maciej, bartender and vodka
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connoisseur. Maciej looks at me with
horror. “No! Not this one!” and goes
on to explain that the flavoured ones
are meant to be enjoyed by sipping -
only some types of vodka, notably the
clear ones, are best consumed in one.
I have to say this is quite a relief to
hear.
Zubrówka Palona is perfectly balanced
with a clear but not overpowering
scent of cherry. As for standard
Zubrówka, the most common way
to enjoy it is the cocktail Tatanka,
which is made with apple juice and
cinnamon – a match made in heaven.
Another classic vodka with a long
tradition is the extraordinary
Goldwasser, dating back to the 17th
century in Gdansk. Distilled with
aniseed, honey and herbs and – yes –
gold flakes. Real gold flakes, floating
around in the glass. I bet you have
never tasted anything like it – it has a
distinctive, almost perfume-like taste.
And whilst the gold flakes may not
add much in terms of flavour, they
certainly add to the feeling.
Goldwasser is far from the only
extraordinary experience in Polish
vodka bars. An interesting, to say
the least, drink is the well-known
Mad dog – a layered shot made with
raspberry syrup, clear vodka and
tabasco. By all means, please note that
the Mad dog is not something that
can be ”enjoyed by sipping”. Bottoms
up with this one – the soothing
raspberry juice will save you from the
initial shock of the tabasco. Another
exhilarating concoction is Krupnik
z kawe – honey vodka and coffee
beans set on fire, then drunk quickly
through a straw. Quite a sensation.
A mellow but flavoursome vodka,
and in my view one of the absolute
highlights of Polish vodka, is Soplica
orzech laskowy (hazelnut vodka – ask
for hazelnut vodka and milk for an
even softer, dreamy combination). An
equally nutty but less sweet option
is the delicious Nisskoscher gorzka
orzechowa (walnut vodka), which can
also serve as the base for a Polish style
pina colada. On chilly days, ask for a
hot vodka grogg made with krupnik
(honey vodka), cloves and lemon.
Among the fruity varieties on offer,
pear is particularly recommended.
Of course there is plenty to discover
in terms of clear vodka, too. The
connoisseur will not miss the
opportunity to indulge in Chopin
(one of few potato-based Polish
vodkas), the new “white whiskey”
Kozuba or Maciej’s personal favourite,
a shot of unfiltered Beldevere, served
ice cold in a frosty glass for a modest 9
złotys (3,5 cl).
Wódka bar and café facts
Established: 2004
Number of vodkas on offer: around 100
Most popular brand: Wyborowa
Most expensive brand: Graygoose
Vodka tasting sessions: Ten small shots for 35 złotys
Prices: Prices quoted were correct at the time of writing.
N.B. Overconsumption of alcohol can be lethal. Please drink responsibly and enjoy your vodka with typical Polish bar snacks such as pickled cucumber, herring, pierogi (filled pasta), kielbasa (sausage) and gołobki (stuffed cabbage). Na zdrowie, as they say here (“to health”).
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Top 5 hidden treasures:
Kraków off the beaten track
by Jens Markussen
Escape the tourist crowds of the Old Town, Kazimierz and the Wawel Castle.We have handpicked some of our favourite places in Kraków – places that visitors may not know about and that make us feel like locals. Check them out!
Plac Imbramowski
With the bustling atmosphere of a
traditional bazaar, Plac Imbramowski
is a refreshing alternative to modern
super- and hypermarkets. Small-scale
farmers from the villages outside of
Kraków have been coming to this
outdoor market to sell their locally
produced goods since the 1950s. At
the 2,100 m2 large square you will
find more than 100 covered market
shops, plus a number of traders
selling their goods from the boots of
their vans or from hastily arranged
spots around the entrances.
Fruit and vegetables straight from the
fields, locally produced Polish meat
and poultry, fresh fish, dairy products,
baked goods and sweets as well as
clothing and footwear, furniture and
electronic gadgets are some of the
things visitors come here to buy.
Everything is sold at the cheapest
prices, and yet there is usually a fair
amount of haggling going on.
There are plenty of seasonal goods on
offer: try the perfectly ripe raspberries
in the summer, handpicked only a few
hours earlier, or the delicious, mouth-
watering apples in the autumn. Of
course you can also expect heaps of
Christmas decorations, Easter eggs
and other seasonal items depending
on the time of year.
Plac Imbramowski is located in
Prądnik Biały in the northern part of
Kraków, close to the busy intersection
of the main road between Zakopane
and Warszawa and the northern east-
west bypass.
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ZakrzówekThe recreational area of Zakrzówek is
one of the most beloved green spots in
a city often covered in a layer of grey
smog. A short 20-minute walk from
the crowds at Wawel Castle will take
you to this hidden treasure – in fact so
hidden that some people believe it is
just a myth.
But Zakrzówek, and its 32 metre deep
blue lagoon, is indeed real. Just be
careful – the former limestone quarry
may appear perfect for a dive on a
hot summer day, the rocks forming
natural platforms from where to jump
– but it is not recommended (and
possibly illegal) to swim here. The
high cliffs make it notoriously difficult
to get dry land under the feet again.
Several deaths since the quarry was
flooded in 1990 sadly prove this.
Instead of taking part in any law-
breaking or life-risking activities, stick
to admiring the view and taking in the
sun at top of the cliffs.
Or go for a stroll in the beautiful
surrounding forest with cliffs of
limestone, a varied wildlife and good
walking and cycling paths. Make sure
you go sooner rather than later though
– the nearby residential area of Ruczaj
is currently under development,
threatening the future existence of
Zakrzówek. Zakrzówek is located in
the district of Debniki close to Ruczaj,
south of the river Wisła.
Cmentarz RakowickiCmentarz Rakowicki is one of
Poland’s best known cemeteries and
the biggest in Kraków.
Visiting a cemetery may not be the
funniest way to spend an afternoon,
but Cmentarz Rakowicki is of great
historical, architectural and artistic
value with grand chapels and
mausoleums, enormous family tombs,
impressive funerary statutes and
thousands of gravestones.
Since the cemetery was established
in 1803, it has been expanded several
times and now occupies an area over
400,000 m2. The architectural variety
and the numerous languages engraved
on the gravestones bear testament to
the turbulent history of Poland.
The most interesting day to pay a
visit is no doubt on All Saints Day (1
November). On this dark autumn day,
Poles all over the country head to the
cemeteries to tidy the graves and light
candles in memory of the dead and
departed. The candles light up the
gravesites, creating a spectacular sight
of flickering lights as the night falls.
Even though thousands of people
gather at Cmentarz Rakowicki this
day, it is in fact a peculiarly quiet
event with a respectful atmosphere.
Cmentarz Rakowicki is located just
north of the city centre, with the main
entrance at Ulica Rakowicka 26.
Kopiec KrakusaThe 15 metre high, man-made
Kopiec Krakusa mound was erected
in honour of prince Krakus, the
legendary founder of Kraków. It is
the oldest of the city’s four remaining
prehistoric mounds.
Zakrzówek is a 32metre deep blue
lagoon in a formerlimestone quarry.
“
“
Zakrzówek recreational area.
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From the top of the grass-covered
hill you have a wonderful 360 degree
panoramic view of Kraków. There
is also a perfect view of the now
abandoned Liban Quarry, which
was used as a cruel penal camp by
the Nazis during the Second World
War. It is possible to climb down to
the bottom of the quarry to explore
the ruins of old refinery equipment.
Just a word of caution: the structures
at the bottom of the quarry may be
unsafe, and be sure to watch out for
barbed wire. If you do venture down
there, you will find a curious mix of
genuine artefacts and movie props –
Steven Spielberg shot some scenes of
Schindler’s List here, and parts of the
movie set were left behind.
A good time to climb Kopiec Krakusa
is on the Tuesday immediately after
Easter, when Kraków celebrates
Święto Rękawki. This medieval
festival presents an opportunity to
experience what life was like in the
Middle Ages, complete with sword
fight demonstrations, authentic
costumes and craft displays. You can
also sample some tasty food, prepared
according to ancient recipes.
Kopiec Krakusa is located on Lasota
Hill in Stare Podgórze, south of the
river Wisła.
Fort Kleparski- Bastion IIIThere are a number of fortresses
built by the Austrians in the 18th
and 19th centuries scattered around
Kraków. One of the most interesting
is the Bastion III Kleparz, also known
as Fort Kleparski, which was built
between 1856-1866.
Fort Kleparski is the only fortress of
its kind still in its original location.
It has remained largely unscathed,
as other forts further away from the
city were the first points of contact
with the enemy. In fact, it was never
involved in any real fights or battles
and thus mainly used as a storage
facility.
Those who find this fortress – it is
easily overlooked as the walls are
partly hidden by the trees of the
surrounding Park Kleparski – can
enjoy a modern wine cellar and a
popular night club (Forty Kleparz,
highly recommended!). It is expected
to be further occupied by a hotel and
conference centre in the future.
There are a number of fortresses built by Austrians in the 18th
and 19th century around Kraków
“
“
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A tour with Crazy Guides is the main highlight of a perfect day in communist Kraków
by Angel Lopez Peiro
A day in communist Kraków:
In the footsteps of Lenin and Fidel CastroGet away from capitalism for one day and experience true communist
Kraków by following our itinerary. Discover Kraków’s communist heritage.
Just like Berlin, Kraków is a city with
many significant ties to communism.
Vladimir Lenin lived here between
1912 and 1914 and loved to hang out
with local Polish intellectuals. After
WWII following Stalin’s orders,
construction of a socialist-realist
steelworks city on the outskirts
of Kraków began in 1949. Cuba’s
revolutionary leader Fidel Castro
visited Kraków in 1972. Most Soviet
Union leaders visited the city, too.
Today, many places in Kraków
allow you to travel back in time to
experience the atmosphere of the
PRL (People’s Republic of Poland,
1945-1989) and give you insight into
communist society and its lifestyle.
We encourage you to discover all of
these places in a single day and hence
enjoy the ultimate Kraków communist
Experience. You just need to follow
this itinerary:
8.00 am Breakfast at the milk bar “Bar Mleczny” at Grodzka 43 street
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Fidel Castro was thrilled by Kraków’s socialist-
realist district during his visit in 1972
Eating in a milk bar is a must for any
visitor to Kraków and a great way to
start your intense communist day.
You should know that the first milk
bar in history opened in Kraków’s
Market Square in 1948 at the corner
with Sienna Street. Initially this
first milk bar did not serve warm
dishes, and you could only drink
milk there. Owned by the communist
government, this kind of bar aimed at
popularizing the consumption of milk
due to a surplus of dairy products in
Poland.
Since most traditional restaurants
were being taken over by the state and
were eventually closed down by PRL
authorities, milk bars mushroomed
across the country and began offering
cheap meals to the workers. In some
cases, meals at the local milk bar were
even included in a worker’s salary.
By the mid-1960s, milk bars were
already located throughout Poland.
Anecdotally, Poland’s economic
situation was so tough under the
communist regime that many milk
bars chained the cutlery to the table to
prevent the theft of forks, knives and
spoons!
When communism collapsed in
1990, most milk bars went bankrupt.
Luckily, though, enough remain
and now serve as exciting tourist
attractions for visitors. In addition,
milk bars provide locals and
tourists alike with a good choice for
homemade traditional Polish food
and serve a wide range of cheap, fast
dishes. The Bar Mleczny on Grodzka
is one of the best milk bars in Kraków
for those looking for good food and an
unmistakable communist atmosphere.
10.00 am Crazy Guides Communist Tour in Nowa Huta Visit and discover Kraków’s centrally
planned Socialist district of Nowa
Huta (Polish for “New Steelworks”)
with Crazy Guides. By taking this tour
in a genuine Trabant automobile, you
can admire the Renaissance style of
the Soviets, visit the front gate of the
Vladimir Lenin Steelworks, admire
the Avenue of Roses and experience
the wonders of this one-of-a-kind city.
Not only will you discover how the
average Pole lived, worked and played
under communism, but stories and
anecdotes from your laid-back local
guide will bring the “good old days”
back to life.
Your assigned Crazy Guide can pick
you up in Grodzka 43 in the Old
Town, or wherever you prefer, and
after the tour can drop you off at the
next stop in the itinerary in Nowa
Huta. Crazy Guide website.
1.00 pm Lunch and coffee at C-2 Południe, the communist café of Kraków at ós. Górali 5This is truly a communist café, located
in the middle of Nowa Huta. However,
you will notice their coffee does not
taste that communist and is actually
some of the best you can drink in
Kraków. The same applies to their
cakes and sandwiches.
The stylish glass tables not only
include photos of the construction
Nowa Huta is thecommunist icon of
Poland - an entire city built
according to Stalin’s vision...
“
“
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Learn interesting anecdotes about the Lenin Monument at the Avenue of Roses
of the city but also have pictures of
the communist leaders in Poland,
the Soviet Union and worldwide,
including images of Fidel Castro’s
visit to Nowa Huta in 1972. Here
you can wear a Polish communist-
era authentic militia outfit and have
pictures taken with you wearing the
outfit. Upon request from customers,
the staff of C-2 Południe can play
an interesting film that narrates the
history of Nowa Huta.
3.00 pm Branch in Nowa Huta of the
Museum of the History of the City at
os. Słoneczne 16
Nowa Huta - first a separate town
was created at the location of villages
in 1949. Stalin designed it to become
a great centre of heavy industry that
would supply the Soviet Union with
steel and to serve as a model for the
perfect socialist-realist city.
It was an ideal urban project for
communist propaganda, and it would
be populated mostly by industrial
workers with origins in rural Poland.
The permanent exhibition displays
dozens of pictures and texts in both
English and Polish that present the
most important events in the history
and development of the district. You
can also watch the documentary film
“Labyrinth of Memory“ with English
subtitles that features interviews
with some of the protagonists and
witnesses of events that took place in
Nowa Huta.
More information on the Musem of the History of Nowa Huta Quarter. Visit Website.
6.00 pm Dinner at the true communist restaurant of Kraków, Kogel Mogel Sienna 12The 15 metre high, man-made
restaurant, named after a homemade
egg-based dessert popular in Eastern
Europe, offers a great opportunity
to enjoy the best Galician traditional
cuisine in rooms that resemble a
grand banquet hall for the communist
elite. Kogel Mogel’s huge variety of
starters, main dishes and desserts
is unrivalled by similar Polish
restaurants in rest of Kraków.
One of the main highlights is the fact
that the menu is delivered to guests
in a Pravda-style newspaper. The
food and drink in a socialist-realist
literary style with constant references
to Stalin, Lenin and the worker’s right
behaviour and mind-set. This includes
so many good examples of communist
party propaganda that you might be
tempted to think it was written by
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members of the Politburo.
Kogel Mogel website.
08.00 pm Beer at Bania Luka at Plac Szczepański 6This extremely popular bar is a
similar concept to Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa, a franchise that has recently
opened many branches in Kraków
and throughout Poland. Their
successful idea consists in serving
beer at PLN 4 and Polish tapas at
PLN 8, including delicacies such as
herrings, mackerel, tartar, sausages
and bread with smalec (typical Polish
lard) and pickled cucumbers. Bania Luka, however, offers a much wider
range of food and drinks (including
spirit mixes for PLN 6), higher quality
beer, and a less intense aroma of beef
tartar.
Alternatively, you can also stop by the
cosy Pub Propaganda at Miodowa
20 in Kazimierz, a 15-minute walk
from Market Square. Here you will be
surrounded by hundreds of mementos
and tokens from communist Poland
while you enjoy cheap beer and vodka
shots. Propaganda website.
10.00 pm Communist style party at Klub Społem at Tomasza 4For the final communist catharsis,
no better option exists than going
on a communist-style party at the
so- called communist club of Klub Społem, next door to Bania Luka. It
is named after Społem (Polish word
for “jointly” or “together”), a retail
consumers’ cooperative that was
nationalized by the PRL government
in 1970. It still exists today. Drink the
best communist vodka and spirits in
town at a price arranged for workers.
Dance to the best PRL-era songs.
But please, do not dare to ask the
DJ, who’s working from an amazing
vintage van-shaped set, to play a
capitalist American song for you.
And who knows: you might be lucky
enough to meet the male or female
comrade of your dreams here.
www.pubspolem.pl
Discover Nowa Huta in one of the amazing communist-time Crazy Guides’ cars
The staff at Crazy Guides will lead you through the highlights of communist Kraków
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Vegard recommends: The seven wonders of Kraków
Tourism
by Vegard Tverberg
Kraków is a city full of adventure, with plenty of sights that demand to be visited. Vegard from Sviatovid Guiding has given us his personal choice of seven art pieces. They are from seven different centuries, represent seven different art forms, and are of different kinds and styles. The text below is meant as an inspiration to discover the city’s culture, history and religion in her corners.
15th century – The Mariacki church ALTAR- Wit Stwosz
The Mariacki Church altar is Kraków’s
greatest art piece. The sculptor
Wit Stwosz from Nürnberg was
invited to Kraków in 1477, to create
a representative altar for the town
burghers. The city raised a significant
amount (equivalent to one year’s
budget), to attract Stwosz and his
workers. It took them 12 years to
finish the piece. By the time Stwosz
left the city in 1496, he had enriched
the city both with several sculptural
masterpieces and a with a whole
school of artists continuing his style.
The altar is a culmination of Gothic
art, including expressive realism
and plenty of citations of Kraków
life, including Stwosz himself. Each
human posture is depicted with
anatomical precision. Each group
is full of dynamism, not the least
because Stwosz was a true master
in carving deep waving folds and
draperies.
The main scene shows the Dormition
of Mary surrounded by the 12
apostles. Above, Mary is lifted with
Jesus by angels on a vessel of rays. At
the top we see Mary crowned by the
Father and the Son as the Queen of
Heaven.
The open altar shows the
Good News of Christian theology,
such as the Birth of Christ or the
Resurrection, all depicted with depth,
gold and shimmering rays. The closed
altar shows in 12 reliefs the Passion of
Christ and scenes which are darker in
character. Therefore make sure you
visit the altar right after the opening
hours, as the wings are opened
daily at 11.50 am: you can enjoy the
complete art work only around that
time.
16th century – Paradise Bliss TAPESTRY, Wawel Castle
Is there a better representative of the
European Renaissance than an arras.
These portable frescos as they were
called, were for a time on the move.
The Mariacki church altar by Wit Stwosz
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Arrases could be rolled together,
transported, and make the rooms of
the next castle the king would visit as
representative as the previous. These
tapestries were created with exotic
materials at important ports including
Brussels, Bruges and Antwerp, and
in the content deeply inspired by
the goods brought home from other
worlds. King Sigismund August’s huge
tapestry collection shows the wealth
of the Polish king at the time and his
close relation to Europe.
“Paradise Bliss” has a cartoonish
narrative of seven scenes, from the
creation of Eve from Adams ribs, to
the moment when an angel chases
them out of Paradise. The vegetation
is a combination of European and
exotic plants; There are animals
everywhere, particularly birds. Most
visible is the peacock in the right
corner; it symbolizes the lost Paradise
in its relation to the expelled humans
behind it. Alas, between them, like if
the arras contains its own prophecy,
stands the now extinct raphinae
(Dodo bird).
The nudity depicted in the tapestry
was something completely new, and
must have given some additional spice
to feasts hosted by Sigismund August.
The fig leaves were added to the
tapestry at a later, more conservative
time. The central motif depicts God,
telling Adam not to eat from the tree
of knowledge. The workshop of Jan
de Kempeneer must have been deeply
moved by the theme, real knowledge
eaters as they were. And we are still
eating.
17th century – The Myszkowski Chapel, Dominican Church
Marshal Zygmunt Myszkowski was
a man of wild ideas, as his times, the
period of the late Renaissance, were a
time of wild ideas. The Polish nobility
were a nobility without titles, so in
names (though not in wealth and
might) they were all equal. Zygmunt
Myszkowski managed to distinguish
himself, by maintaining close contact
with the Italian Gonzaga family, into
which he was adopted and given the
title Graf, to the annoyance of the rest
of the Polish nobility.
In the years 1603-1614 Italian
late Renaissance artists built him the
Myszkowski Chapel. Its pattern was
the luxurious Zygmunt Chapel on
Wawel, a resting place for a queen and
two kings. But Myszkowski was a man
of wild Italian ideas, and he pretended
to be a humble man. He didn’t want
any boastful grave monuments in his
chapel. On the contrary, he gave his
blessing to a delicate and pure marble
altar for the worship of St Dominik,
and the surrounding covered with
clean marble walls and Ionic columns.
That’s all! Except for a complete
gallery of the Myszkowski family
around the dome. So at the chapel,
look up! In all modesty, let the world
belong to the mortals, as long as the
Myszkowskis dominate the heavenly
sphere!
17th and 18th century – The Skałka POND
Skałka, Kraków´s most peaceful
and magic spot. Skałka – a church,
a monastery, a national pilgrimage
The Myszkowski chapel in the Dominican church
The Skałka Pond
“ In the years 1603-1614 Italian late
Renaissance artists built the Myszkowski Chapel
masterpiece... “
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same spot in pagan times. It´s called
the stoup of Poland, and its water is
supposed to have healing qualities for
eye and skin deseases. At the centre
of the pond we see a baroque statue of
Stanislaw restoring Piotrowin to life,
a Krakowian variant of the Raising
of Lazarus. You don´t have to be a
believer to enjoy Skałka. If Stanislaw
will not restore you to life, the bird’s
song will.
19th century – Pantaleon Szyndler´s PAINTING Bathing Girl, National Museum in Kraków, Gallery of Polish 19th century Polish art in Sukiennice
At first glance, Pantaleon Szyndler´s
Bathing Girl might look like a nude
without any further drama. It´s the
paintings title and a closer look that
make the whole scenery visible in the
dark. The girl stands on the edge of a
harem bath. On the mosaic under her
we can see she has let fall a bracelet,
a foot chain and a necklace. Only her
last clothing remain, with which she
shyly covers her chest, suggesting a
spectator in the pool. She is on the
verge of stepping in. The fountain,
and its position, needs no further
Freudian explanation. The winged
statue on its side seems to be Ishtar,
and the spread jewellery and the
gesture of undressing seems to be a
reference to the Ishtar myth. It’s as
if, despite her innocence, the water
will petrify the girl. The mastery of
the picture is that it makes both views
visible – the picture is full of erotism
and the tempted male gaze, and
simultaneously a portrait of a poor
innocent slave girl.
One would expect the theme of
harems and human trade to be a
theme of lost actuality. Sadly the
opposite is true. Poland might not be,
due to its strong Catholic culture, the
greatest participator in this trade. So
the less the opposite is true for almost
all of her neighbouring countries.
and a pantheon. And in front of
everything, the pond.
In 1079 Stanislaw Bishop was
killed at the Altar in Skałka by King
Boleslaw the Bold. According to the
hagiography his body was brought
outside and cut into pieces. While the
ravens circled around the remains,
four white eagles protected the body.
Miraculously, Stanislaw´s body parts
then grew together. These eagles are
commemorated at each of the ponds
corner posts.
Stanislaw was canonized in 1253,
and has been the patron saint of
Poland ever since, and is a symbol
of the country´s destiny. He rests in
Wawel Cathedral´s most prominent
spot, but Skałka will always be it´s
counterpoint. Every Polish king
after 1320 had to make a pilgrimage
to Skałka on the day before his
coronation, as a penance for King
Boleslaw´s crime, and a guarantee
of the monarchy´s obedience to the
church.
The natural pond likely belonged to
a temple previously located on the
‘Bathing Girl”, Pantaleon Szyndler, National Museum in Kraków
“ The girl stands on the edge of a harem bath. On the mosaic under her we can see she has let fall a
bracelet, a foot chain and
a necklace. “
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20th century – Stanisław Wyspianski´s STAINED GLASS “God Creator”, Franciscan Church
It´s difficult to turn your head in
Kraków without seeing something
that is a reference to Stanislaw
Wyspianski. It might be anecdotes or
biographical references, citations from
his poetry or his dramas, motifs from
his paintings, some of his unrealized
megalomanic ideas, his art works or
sculptures in his honour. It’s as if the
city was in his blood, and his blood
still pumps in it’s streets.
His stained glass still has a central
position as an art form he reinvented
and modernized. Foremost among
them are the works in the Franciscan
Church, and most prominent of them
all is God Creator above its choir. It´s
so fresh and cartoonish that it looks
more like a work from the 1960s than
from the beginning of the century.
The motif is the second day of creation
– “And God said, Let there be a
firmament in the midst of the waters.”
The dynamism in the elements is
so violent, that some spectators
don´t see the creator at first sight.
It´s like the creator breaks through
from another dimension and can
hardly stand against the storm of the
elements.
But Wyspianski is always a
Krakowian. The Creator is also
a portrait of his uncle after his
return from Siberian exile. The
upper expressive, active, potent
left hand though, is a citation, from
the Michelangelo´s Sistine Chapel
– it’s a mirror image of Archangel
Michael´s right hand at the top of Last
Judgement. Pay attention to the right
hands in all of Wyspianski´s works.
And beware of right pale dead hand
in God Creator. One day this will rise,
and end what once begun.
21st century – MONUMENT on Plac Bohaterów Getta, Piotr Lewicki i Kazimierz Łatak, 2006
With the chairs on Plac Bohaterów
Getta (Ghetto Heroes Square) Krakow
has finally created a holocaust
monument that remember the
Jewish people that influenced and
contributed so much to the history of
the city, and who disappeared without
a trace in 1942 and 1943. Of a pre-war
population around 60,000, less than
thousand Krakowian Jews survived.
The monument is situated on the
former Nazi square for selections,
where those fit for work where further
exploited in the ghetto, while the
weakest where transported to the
gassing centre in Bełżec (only one
person survived this “camp”). This
place saw the most terrible scenes,
and it is supposed to have been the
mass shooting of the ghetto children
that disturbed and changed Otto
Schindler mind forever. (Schindler’s
factory is situated 300 m away from
the square.)
Our most important source of
Kraków ghetto history comes from
the memories of Tadeusz Pankiewicz,
a Polish pharmacist on the ghetto
‘God Creator ‘ by Stanisław Wyspiański
“The dynamism in the elements is so violent, that some
spectators don´t see the creator at first
sight. “
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square who courageously remained
in the ghetto throughout its whole
existence, and who witnessed all
horrors right outside his pharmacy
window. The direct historical link
to the chairs in the monument is a
reference depicted from Pankiewicz’
memories. During the first selection to
Bełżec 2-4 June 1942 the Nazis fooled
the Jews by making them pack all
their belongings to create an illusion
about “relocation” to better conditions
in the east. Then they were beaten,
kicked, shot and chased like animals
down to the Plaszow railway station.
All their belongings were ghostly left
behind on the square.
The new chairs have made the victims
ghostly present on the square again.
One part of the chairs, spread in a
grid all over the square, is lifted on
small pedestals, makes them both
impossible to sit on, and destroy all
other activity that can be conducted
on an open square. The second part
fulfils a practical function as chairs
for trams and bus station. This very
twist, this presence and absence, this
combination of prohibition and daily
life, makes the monument Jewish in
conception. These chairs are a giant
step towards a Holocaust memorial in
Kraków. Let’s hope the conception of
the monument can provoke a change
of the Stalinistic name of the place
as well. Whether or not there were
heroes, is irrelevant. First of all there
were victims.
“ New chairs have made the victims of Kraków Ghetto ghostly present on the square again... These chairs are a giant step towards
a Holocaust memorial in
Kraków.”Plac Bohaterów Getta in Old Podgórze
“ Schindler’s Factory museum is situated 300m
away from the square. “
Kraków livingKraków and 21st century architectureby Michał Steckiw
10 ways to get around Kraków: From horses tounderground tramwayby Angel Lopez Peiro
Biking around Krakówby Salvatore Carfora
Fitness first: Stay fit in Krakówby Michał Steckiw
Frania Cafe and Laundretteby Anja Wedberg
Cool flats at hot prices: An insight into the local realestate marketby Michał Steckiw
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Kraków districts at glance
From Stare Miasto to Nowa Huta
There are several major districts and a number of neighbourhoods in Kraków. Here is a brief introduction to the key areas that attract local expats and foreign visitors - from the UNESCO-protected Stare Miasto, through bohemian Kazimierz and the up-and-coming areas of Grzegórzki and Podgórze to the socrealistic Nowa Huta.
Stare Miasto: Kraków’s Old Town,
located in the heart of the city, is
a UNESCO World Heritage Site
which includes the picturesque
Rynek Square, the majestic royal
Wawel Castle, remains of medieval
fortifications, rich renaissance
and baroque residences and the
Jagiellonian University’s medieval
campus.
Kazimierz: The medieval Jewish
quarter boasts a number of
synagogues and historic Jewish
merchant houses as well as numerous
bohemian and arty restaurants, bars,
clubs and art galleries. Home to the
Jewish Cultural Festival each summer.
Stare Podgórze: Connected to
Kazimierz by the Kładka footbridge,
this historic district is where the Nazis
created a Jewish ghetto during World
War II.
Grzegórzki: 19th century industrial
settlement, today a developing area
with both heritage and modern
residential apartments and offices
plus the high end shopping mall
Galeria Kazimierz. In the near future
there will also be a new philharmonic
hall on the bank of the Wisła River,
and the new seat for Małopolska
regional assembly.
Zabłocie: Former industrial quarter
and home to both Schindler’s Factory
museum and MOCAK (Museum of
Contemporary Arts), this is another
up-and-coming area on the south
bank of the Wisła River.
AWF: Recreational area surrounding
the AWF Park and the new Krakow
Arena. Here you will find a large
public park, two shopping malls, a
cineplex and a new sports and events
arena. Suggested possible location for
the Olympic Village 2022.
Nowa Huta: Established by the
communist regime following World
War II as a model socialist labour
town, with typical 1950s socrealistic
architecture copied straight from the
Soviet Union. Highly recommended
if Poland is the first post-communist
country you are visiting. Located east
of Kraków’s centre.
Olsza & Prądnik Czerwony:Up-and-coming business and
entertainment area with high-rise
office buildings, shopping malls,
a cineplex, a water park and new
residential developments. Located
north-east of the city centre.
Wola Justowska: Cosy residential
area west of Stare Miasto on the way
to the zoo and the Las Wolski forest.
Includes the renaissance Decius
Palace and Park complex.
Kryspinów & Balice: Kraków’s
nearest beach is located by the
recreational lake of Kryspinów, not
far from Kraków Airport in Balice.
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Kraków and 21st Century architecture:
Can Kraków learn from London, Berlin, Vienna, Beijing or Montreal?
by Michal J. Steckiw
Kraków is famous for its outstanding heritage architecture: the castle, temples, merchant houses from the renaissance and baroque periods and cultural buildings. These are symbols of Poland’s rich history at a time when its borders spread
from the Baltic Sea to the Black Sea. Yet it is the city’s preservation of its historic Old Town that has limited development of outstanding modern architecture that could become landmarks of 21st century Kraków. While other major cities have
encouraged the development of new
landmark buildings, Kraków has
focused instead on preserving classic
buildings. Further, Kraków has
ensured that anything new falls in line
with existing structures and does not
overshadow its key heritage buildings.
By placing a ceiling on creativity and
the vision for the future, Kraków
has produced architecture in recent
decades that is at best average. With
some determination, however, on can
find in Kraków a few architectural
diamonds that are evidence of fresh
thinking on how the modern can
blend in with the historic. To whit:
don’t leave Kraków without visiting
the Małopolska Garden of Arts.
Looking at design metropolises: London, Vienna, Montreal, Berlin...London is the heart of European
creativity and architectural
development. Not only the home of
the world renowned Big Ben, St Paul’s
Cathedral, Tower castle and Tower
Bridge, the city also plays host to the
easily recognized Shard pyramid,
Gherkin skyscraper, Millennium
Bridge and the soon-to-be-completed
Pinnacle tower – all just footsteps
from historical landmarks.
Will Kraków find a balance between historic and modern architecture?
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Montreal, the UNESCO City of
Design, is well known not just for its
heritage French and British colonial
architecture, Notre Dame Cathedral
and the Vieux Port, but for 20th
century Canadian masterpieces such
as the Olympic Stadium, Habitat 67,
Palais des congrès, and 1000 de la
Gauchetière.
Vienna, Austria, found a balance
between its heritage of Austrian
empire palaces, churches and
mansions and the extravagant
buildings designed by Hundertwasser.
The famous landmark of historic
Valencia is, surprisingly, the modern
City of Arts and Sciences and the new
opera house designed by Santiago
Calatrava.
Since the fall of communism, Berlin
has undergone outstanding urban
redesign.Today, the city proudly
presents modern architecture
coexisting with historic landmarks
that survived or were rebuilt after
World War II.
What about Kraków?Kraków has yet to envision how the
21st century should be marked on the
city’s architectural landscape. Visitors
to the city need not have their cameras
at the ready when viewing recent
large municipal projects such as the
new Opera house, Wisła Stadium or
even commercial developments like
Sheraton Hotel or Galeria Krakowska.
There are some developments
worth mentioning, however. First
of all, the Małopolska Garden of Arts, internationally recognized by
ArchDaily as the best cultural building
in 2012; the “Kładka” pedestrian
bridge that spans the river between
Kazimierz and Old Podgórze (Stare
Podgórze); or revitalization projects
that have combined old and new
architecture: the Galeria Kazimierz
shopping mall, Pasaz 13 and the
Museum of Contemporary Arts (MOCAK).
The Małopolska Garden of Arts introduced new spatial order
to the old backyards and ruined
buildings found on Rajska and
Szujskiego streets in Kraków’s
lively neighborhood around
Karmelicka Street. The focus point
is a multifunctional hall that was
combined with a former 19th-century
horse riding arena.
The Małopolska Garden of Arts is a
collaborative project between two
institutions: the historic Juliusz
Słowacki Theatre and the Małopolska
Voivodeship Library. The wing found
on Szujskiego Street houses a modern
art and media library with multimedia
books and music, while the section
on Rajska Street was developed as a
theatre that includes a multifunctional
events hall. Its geometric and
transparent architecture has become a
landmark of 21st-century Kraków.
In the near future...Fortunately, there are several other
new public buildings currently under
development that have the potential to
become new architectural landmarks
of the city: the ICE Congress Centre
on the river bank opposite Wawel
hill; the new sports arena that upon
completion will resemble a spacecraft;
The Arts & Science Centre and the new opera inValencia, Spain
The Olympic Stadium in Montreal, Canada: UNESCO City of Design.
The Shard in London: The tallest skyscraper inthe European Union
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Małopolska Garden of Arts in Kraków
The Kładka’pedestrian bridge connects Kazimierz and Old Podgórze in Kraków
The Home Army Museum, Kraków
a new waste processing plant that
will blend in naturally with the
surrounding rural landscape on the
outskirts of Nowa Huta; the Kantor
Museum (Crikoteka); and the new
International Terminal at Balice
Airport. These are signs that the city
is finally creating modern architecture
equal to its aspirations.
Soon the Małopolska Region authority
will announce an international
architectural competition for the
design of a new philharmonic hall
and music center on the banks of
Wisła River. It will be located in the
redeveloping post-industrial area of
Grzegórzki. Is this an opportunity
to develop a modern landmark
building that will match those in
Beijing, Oslo, Valencia or Sydney?
It will be, presuming the selection
committee possesses the wisdom and
vision that Kraków deserves. After
all, the architecture found on Wawel
Hill comprises styles found over the
centuries: medieval, renaissance,
baroque and classical. Judging by the
results from the recent competition
for the new seat of Małopolska
Regional Assembly, also in Grzegórzki
quarter, there are positive signs that
local decision makers understand that
Kraków deserves new architectural
iconic buildings that will represent the
21st century city on the rise.
Old Kraków offers amazing
opportunities for both urban
design and the redevelopment of
areas outside the core Old Town
and Kazimierz. If it is to be a truly
international city with aspirations
to be more than a weekend getaway
destination, Kraków needs to survey
the best examples of what happens
when architects are unleashed
and allowed to create and envision
something new and (oftentimes)
controversial. The examples of
modern architecture listed below that
can be found in the heart of heritage
districts can serve to inspire Kraków
and its residents. The city houses
outstanding historic architecture. The
time has come to build something
for future generations by boosting
architectural creativity.
Kraków offers opportunities for both new
urban design and redevelopment
of areas outside the Old Town and
Kazimierz.
“
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Photo: National Centre for Performing Arts in Beijing, China. Architectural benchmark for modern public buildings architecture?
Architectural benchmark for modern public
buildings?
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On two and four wheels, by rail, on water, with grandeur or in a sporty way. Move around the jewel in the crown of Poland like a Polish king.
On footKraków is one of the best cities in
Europe to discover on foot. There are
many pedestrian streets, and the main
tourist attractions are fairly close to
each other. Walk along the Royal Way
from the Barbican, through Floriańska
Street, the splendorous Main Market
Square and Grodzka Street to the
magnificent Wawel Castle. Follow
the Planty Park ring around the Old
Town; mosey down the riverbank
boulevards that stretch out beside the
Wisła River.
By tram and busKraków’s well-developed public
transportation system network has
numerous on-time tram and bus lines
that cover the city’s districts.
A ticket valid for 20 minutes costs
PLN 2.80 while a 40-minute ticket
costs PLN 3.80. Student and senior
citizen tickets cost PLN 1.40 (valid for
20 minutes) and PLN 1.90 (valid for
40 minutes).
Many tram and bus stops also feature
these machines.) The machines are
always located on the first carriage
of a multi-car tram. If you get on a
tram on which you can’t find a ticket
machine, tickets can be bought from
the driver, though at a slightly higher
price. Drivers require exact change.
Tickets must be validated on the bus/
tram; this is done in clearly marked
devices located throughout the tram/
bus.
Be aware of the disguised plainclothes
ticket controllers. Your chances of
encountering them are much greater
than you may think. Prices for fines
range PLN 120-150. If you are caught
without a valid ticket, you must
pay the fine in cash directly to the
controller (unless you hold documents
proving your permanent address
Kraków Living
10 ways to get around Kraków: from horses to underground tramway
by Angel Lopez Peiro
Poland’s longest tram on Lubicz Street in Kraków
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Underground tramway in Kraków’s centre linked to the main railway station (Dworzec Główny)
in Kraków). Riders holding the
discounted student and senior citizen
tickets may be required to show a
proper student or pensioner ID.
Check MPK’s website for further
information about Kraków’s public
transportation. A good guide to plan
your trip through the city with public
transportation is jakdojade.pl.
By trainMany of Kraków’s suburbanites
commute from home by train.
Commuter rail connects the main
train station (Kraków Główny) with
the secondary station Kraków-Płaszów
and other train stops scattered around
the city. Check lines and schedules.
In addition, an express train connects
the main train station and Kraków’s
John Paul II Airport in 20 minutes.
Although the train station is 200 m
from the international terminal, you
can use a free shuttle bus service to
move between them. The price for
a regular one-way ticket is PLN 12.
More information and schedules.
By taxiThere are three low-cost taxi services
in Kraków: iCar (+48 12 653 55
55), Mega Taxi (+48 12 196 25) and
Car-o (+48 12 623 44 33). Due to city
regulations, these particular taxis
must be requested by phone.
By bicycleThe city boasts of many bike paths
that wend their way through
interesting urban and nature
landscapes. Many of them go around
Old Town, Kazimierz and along the
Wisła riverbanks. However, some of
the most beautiful bike routes follow
the Rudawa River from Błonia Park
and cover the trails through Wolski
Forest, near Kościuszko Mound. Be
aware that some of the climbs along
the way can be very steep, and that
not all trails are marked. The bike
path to Tyniec is also worth trying.
Bike rental outlets can be found
throughout Kraków’s Old Town. For
instance, you can rent a bike and
go on an organized bike tour with
Cruising Kraków, Cool Tour Company
and Bike Trip. Alternatively, many
self-service bike rental stands are
located throughout the city. While
these stands allow you to pick up a
By bicycle? Readour article on
recommendations forbikers in Kraków.
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bike for a small fee, be aware that you
must register online first at
kmkbike.pl.
Maybe you would like to move around
Poland’s former capital in more non-
conventional ways while having a bit
of fun at the same time. Here are our
suggestions:
By golf cartPrices range from PLN 200-250 (a
maximum of 5 fit in a golf cart) for
a ride that includes Old Town and
Kazimierz. It’s worth it to bargain
over the price with the driver. The
golf carts are also popular nightlife
entertainment: drinking alcoholic
beverages on the golf carts is
permitted and the driver can play your
music over the cart’s speaker system
if you bring an mp3 player. One of the
many companies in Kraków operating
sightseeing golf carts is See Kraków.
By horse-drawn carriageHorse-drawn carriages arrayed in
Kraków’s Market Square (Rynek) and
travelling through Old Town have
become a landmark of the city. You
can hire a carriage if you approach the
north side of Market Square. Prices
start at PLN 100 /carriage. Carriages
can carry up to 4 or 5 people. Prices
begin at PLN 100 for a ride around the
square; a trip from Rynek to Wawel
costs around PLN 170 /carriage (30
minutes); a 1-hour ride from Rynek
to Wawel and then to the Kazimierz
Jewish District costs PLN 350.
By boat/water tramKraków’s river trams connect different
points located on the Wisła riverbank
as well as many of the city’s tourist
attractions: Wawel Royal Castle,
Old Podgórze, the Ghetto Heroes
Square and Oscar Schindler’s factory,
the Balloon, Manggha Museum,
the Camaldolese Monastery in
Bielany, Kościuszko Mound, John
Paul II’s home on Tyniecka Street,
the Norbertine Monastery, and the
Pauline Church on the Rock. You can
also take a 10 km scenic boat trip from
Kraków to the Benedictine Abbey in
Tyniec by navigating up the river.
Find out more about Kraków’s water
tram system, its prices, schedules and
routes.
Tram Café Retro and Tramway PartyHop on the only café on rails in
Poland. Enjoy a coffee, tea or beer
while travelling by carriages and
a glamorous atmosphere without
losing sight of Kraków’s majestic
monuments. More info about Tram
Café Retro and booking.
TramWay Party is a very popular fun
activity among students in Kraków,
whether local or international.
This is ideal for anyone eager to have
a great time and experience a different
side of public transportation. You can
dance to a music mix from a DJ and
have some drinks while you travel
around Kraków with your friends.
More info and booking.
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By boat and water tram: enjoy Kraków from the Wisła River and meet the locals
A bird’s-eye view of Kraków from a hot-air balloon
Our final recommendation does
not correspond to a means of
transportation proper, but instead
involves leaving earth and observing
Kraków from 200 metres in the air!
It is located just across the Wisła
River from Wawel Castle. The hot-air
balloon in question is securely tied to
the ground. You can enjoy magnificent
views of Wawel Castle, Old Town, the
whole city and its surroundings, and
even (on a clear day) the stunning
Tatra Mountains.
We highly recommend hopping on
the balloon just before the sunset.
The ride accommodates up to 30
passengers, and a regular ticket costs
PLN 36 per person.
When travellingacross Kraków
centre by boat youcan enjoy a pint of
Polish lager...
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It’s a hard knock life for us (bikers)
Or, should you prefer, call us cyclists.
The truth is that life for bikers/
cyclists ain’t easy in big cities such as
Kraków. There are the ever-present
traffic jams, bike trails that resemble
Swiss cheese with many holes, and
bike trails that sometimes abruptly
end, thus forcing one to cross very
busy roads. The city itself is almost
entirely flat, so one can enjoy long
rides without pushing too hard on
the pedals. For people that find
flat roads boring, several artificial
mounds (hills) can be found scattered
around the city. The Polish term for
mound is Kopiec, and there are four
of them: Kopiec Kosciuszki, Kopiec
Wandy, Kopiec Krakusa, and Kopiec
Pilsudksiego. Kraków boasts of several
large green areas, the largest of which
is Błonia Park. Here you can enjoy
a pleasant and relaxing ride around
the park on a road/trail shared with
bike riders, roller skaters and jogging
aficionados (but no automobiles).
Sadly, all these nice places are not
very well connected with each other,
and sometimes you may end up
arguing with nasty drivers who keep
honking and cutting in front of you,
making you wish that you had one
of those weird armoured bikes from
WWI to teach them a lesson! Those
bikes, however, belong to the history
books and museums. If you really
want to have a pleasant life riding
your beloved two wheels, perhaps you
should follow these basic rules.
Keep your bike efficientAlways make sure your tires are
properly inflated and that the treads
are not to worn out. Keep the chain
lubricated and free of rust: you don’t
really want it to break while ascending
Kopiec Kościuszki. Make sure your
brakes work properly: you are going
to need them as you make your way
downhill back to Kraków.
Equip your bike with lights and a bell
Kraków Living
by Salvatore Carfora
Biking around Kraków
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Salvatore, originally from Italy, explores
biking around Kraków and shares
his tips for fun and safe biking
adventures.
It is crucial to be seen and heard when
you are on the road, especially when
it’s dark. Equip your bike with bright
lights on the front and back. Reliable
and inexpensive LED lights are
readily available these days. Mount a
bell on your bike if you don’t want to
keep shouting at pedestrians on the
riverbank trail to move along.
Drive safely, wear a helmetThe truth is, bike helmets look kind
of funny and lame, but one might
save your life one day. When you buy
a helmet, don’t underspend. Make
sure the model has been tested and
complies with international safety
standards.
Bring along a repair kitEspecially when you go for a leisure
ride at one of the many spots around
the city such as Ojców National Park,
Las Wolski, Tyniec, or the artificial
lagoon at Kryspinów. You backpack
can easily accommodate a small
pump, a repair kit for bicycle inner
tubes, and a multi-tool key.
Watch out for tram tracksA common problem for urban bikers
is tram tracks. If your ride is a
mountain bike, your tires won’t get
stuck in the tracks, but if you love
fast racing bikes or comfy Holland
bikes, then you have to be very careful
when you approach tram tracks. The
best way to cross them is diagonally,
of course, while making sure that no
car is approaching you from behind.
If you dare to ride during the winter,
don’t even think about crossing them:
tracks freeze very easily. As soon as
your front tire touches the tracks, no
matter what you are riding, you’ll find
yourself sitting on the asphalt. Unless,
of course, you’re riding in the middle
of a big field in the countryside: in
that case, all of the above doesn’t
apply.
Don’t listen to your mp3 player while ridingThis includes any other activity that
might distract you, such as smoking,
talking on the phone, eating, etc.
When you ride your bike, you need
to focus on everything happening
A Nun on a bike? Only in Kraków.
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Karmelicka Street leading toward Bagatela Biking down the Wisła river.
around you; otherwise, you could
injure yourself or cause an accident.
Don’t forget the cars, buses, and other
bikers around you – keep your eyes
and ears open.
Don’t listen to your mp3 player while
riding. Seriously!
Don’t drink alcoholic beverages before riding
We all love a cold beer on a sunny
summer day, don’t we? Regardless,
you have to make a decision: bike
or beer. First of all, it’s not safe for
you and for the people around you.
Secondly, if you get caught by the
police, they will give you a ticket
and possibly take away your driving
license. And you don’t really want
that, trust me.
Respect traffic lawsYou should always bear in mind that
you don’t own the road and others
have right to use it as well. To some
extent, riding a bike is like driving a
car: you are subject to the same traffic
laws and rules, so you must respect
them. Unless you don’t possess a driving license and you don’t know anything
about the topic. In that case read a book or choose to walk: the world will be
grateful.
That’s it. We hope we didn’t forget anything, and we wish you a nice ride in
the streets of Kraków… if you manage to avoid all the pedestrians that jam the
streets in Old Town Kraków, of course!
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Kraków provides plenty of opportunities for staying fit. The city was named the 2014 European City of Sports, hosts many international sporting events, and was the home base for Italian, English and Dutch national football teams during the 2012 EUFA Football tournament in Poland. What
about the local gym scene? Here’s a guide to Kraków’s gym
chains for both visitors and
newcomers.
With the recently developed
network of modern gyms located
around the city, you won’t miss
your workout while spending time
in this historic city.
Sport is everywhere in Kraków:
from the runners zipping along the
boulevards adjacent to the Wisła River
and Błonia Park, to the bikers finding
their way to the Kraków mounds, over
to the Las Wolski forest, up to the zoo
and Tyniec Abbey. With three football
clubs, two new stadiums, and Poland’s
largest indoor sports arena scheduled
to be completed in 2014 – Yes, its true
that Kraków is all about sports and
staying fit.
The local gym scene offers a variety of
places worth visiting. When spending
some time in Kraków, you will likely
stay either in the Old Town or near
one of many business parks outside
of the core city centre. According to
a recent survey by the local portal
krakow.naszemiasto.pl, Platinium Fitness (located on ul. Mogilska) and
Energym (located in Czyzyny) are
Kraków Living
Fitness first:
Stay fit in Kraków
by Michal J. Steckiw
Kraków has a growing network of modern gyms
“Here’s a guide to Kraków’s gym chains for both visitors and
newcomers.”
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the most popular and highest ranked
among Kraków’s new gyms.
Platinium offers a large space just
three tram stops from the railway
station in a refurbished factory
on the border of the city centre.
Expanded and furnished with modern
equipment, this club offers four large
workout rooms, space for fitness
classes, two saunas, healthy bar and
a chill-out lounge. The gym, which
is popular with young Krakowians,
foreign students and expats, accepts
both month-to-month membership,
daily passes and the Multisport
benefit card. Its value for the money
and its convenient location have made
it a top spot to get fit.
Much closer to the Old Town
are Pure Fitness gyms, with
two locations: one by the Galeria
Kazimierz shopping mall and the
other in the Angel City complex by
the railway station. The first one
has a swimming pool and offers
its members a number of classes.
It is located in a popular shopping
mall by the bohemian quarter of
Kazimierz, and close to the Wiślane
Tarasy apartment complex and office
buildings along the Wisła River.
The second location can get quite
crowded with local students from the
Politechnika campus. The pricing is
quite expensive for Polish standards.
Contract membership and daily
passes are available. These are still
the two closest gyms when staying
or living in the core Old Town. Daily
passes are PLN 75 compared to PLN
25-50 for other gyms mentioned here.
Three other gyms worth
recommending are located a little
further from the city centre, though
they can be considered when living in
the city. Park Wodny (Aquapark)
has a large gym above its swimming
pool complex. Located next to the
Quatro and Rondo business parks, the
gym is popular among local residents
and professionals who work in the
nearby office towers.
Energym in Czyżyny opened in 2011
and is a modern three-storey complex
with saunas as well as fitness, yoga,
boxing and martial arts classes. It was
ranked among the most popular gyms
in the city. Located in the residential
district of Czyżyny, Nowa Huta, it is
30 minutes from the city centre by
tram.
Recently Galeria Krakowska - the
shopping mall by the main railway
station opened a new exclusive gym
Ozone Fitness catering to the city
center guests and people working
nearby.
Given the variety of places where
you can stay fit, learn new work
out techniques or attend numerous
fitness classes, there is no way you
need to miss your workout routine
when visiting Kraków. If you have
just moved here, there is plenty to
choose from when selecting a local
gym where you can flex, sweat, relax,
mingle and get that endorphin boost.
Stay fit in Kraków. After all, Poland
is home to some of the world’s best-
known Strongmen.
Platinium Fitnessand Energym are
among top favoritegyms in Kraków
where you can flex,sweat, relax and
mingle...
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Park Wodny (Aquapark) complex with water slides, gym and restaurants
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Washing may be one of the dullest activities us humans have to endure on a regular basis. Turn your weekly chore into something rather pleasant at Frania Café and Laundrette, which offers a genius combination of washing machines, drinks and art.
During my first months of living in
Kraków, I found myself living in a
small apartment without a washing
machine, prompting regular visits to
the local laundrette.
Luckily for me, Frania proved to be
something out of the ordinary: a
combined laundrette, café, bar, art
gallery with local art works on display
and free Wi-Fi-spot. Plus a constant
Frania Cafe and Laundrette
by Anja Wedberg
supply of good music, including
regular live concerts.
One load of washing and drying costs
PLN 16 and the complete laundry
service which includes ironing
comes to PLN 26. The launderette is
centrally located at Starowisła 26. It
is open every day from 10:00 am to
midnight or longer.
Frania has a fun website (in English
and Polish) where you can check out
any upcoming events, sign up for their
newsletter, browse the photo gallery
and find useful information about
washing.
There is also a Frania Facebook page
(in Polish).
Anja, from Sweden,
discovered a rather special
laundrette right in the city centre: a genius
combination of washing
machines, drinks and art.
Frania’s website at www.franiacafe.pl is available n English and Polish
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Thinking of buying a flat withing walking distance to old Kraków? With prices in the city centre starting as low as PLN 7,400 per square metre, it is the buyer’s market.
Kraków Living
Panorama of old Kraków captured from Wiślane Tarasy apartment complex.
Cool apartments at the right price. Kraków is the buyer’s market.For now.
by Michal J. Steckiw
A city on the rise, a drop in property
prices and increased competition
among real estate developers, now
is the time to invest in modern
apartments around Kraków’s historic Old Town.
A view of the Old TownSome of the city’s new top-prestigious
developments worth exploring are
Novum Apartments opposite the
Academy of Economics campus,
Angel Wawel next to the Wawel
Castle hill and Nadwislanska 11 residence overlooking Kładka
footbridge, banks of Wisła river and
old Kazimierz. All of those within
walking distance to Kraków main
attractions within historic city center.
When completed, Angel Wawel will
be the home to the most luxurious
penthouse in Poland. With 700
square metres, the top penthouse will
include heritage polychromic windows
and interiors designed by Maciej
Zień - one of Poland’s biggest design
brands.
Kraków may not have the luxurious
high towers you find in Warsaw or
London, but there is one project on
the horizon that might be an exception
– the 24 floors high tower skeleton
by the roundabout Rondo Mogilskie.
This old structure, which has been
an eyesore of the Kraków skyline for
the last 30 years, is planned to be
restored as a Treimorfa tower with
the intention of offering both high-rise
residential apartments and modern
office space, with grand views over the
city and beyond – even as far as the
Tatra Mountains.
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Wiślane Tarasy modern apartments complex www.wislanetarasy.pl
Wiślane Tarasy courtyard at Grzegórzecka Street 67c
Lubicz Brewery lofts. Source: Balmoral
Properties www.browarlubicz.pl
The Old Town remains the best real estate investment in Kraków
Best for location, comfort and architecture
Do you prefer something more low-
key with a courtyard, fountains and
a cosy garden? Wiślane Tarasy
offers both a view of the city from its
large terraces and a large green space
for the residents. This development
was selected among the top most
prestigious residential addresses in
Kraków. It also has a great location
near Kazimierz quarter, the Wisła
river and the Cracovia Business
Centre tower.
For many years Wiślane Tarasy
has been the most desired modern
apartments complex in the city. The
estate is made up of four modern
buildings, with commercial space
on the ground floor for services of
interest to all residents.
Browar Lubicz (the old brewery
lofts) is another interesting project
that topped the chart of new
prestigious addressed in the city. A
large development near Kraków’s
main train station is currently the
one of its kind incorporating loft
design and heritage architecture from
historic Okocim Brewery complex.
When completed Browar Lubicz
will host modern luxurious and
middle class apartments, office and
commercial space within walking
distance from the old town and the
main railway station.
Wiślane Tarasy,Angel Wawel and
Browar Lubiczare the
most desirednew addresses in
Kraków.
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HighlightsPlac Nowy and the heart of Kazimierzby Angel Lopez Peiro
ARS: Kraków Artistic Cinema Centreby Jens Markussen
Karma Coffee Roastersby Elisabeth Wójcik
Schindler’s Factory Museumby Anja Wedberg
Pod Wawelem: The Habsburg in a Polish beer tentby Chris Hamp
Cupcake Corner Bakeryby Katarzyna Morzewska and Elena Gordeeva-Voot
Kraków’s lifeblood - the Wisła Riverby Anna Cieśla
Dajwór Street in Kazimierzby Michał Steckiw and Salvatore Carfora
Choco Cafe: chocolate heaven in Krakówby Grzegorz Kałucki and Hilde Merete Udnaes
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For over two centuries Plac Nowy
has been a market place with its
unmistakable rotunda “Okrąglak”,
used by the Jewish community as a
slaughterhouse from 1927 until the
Second World War.
Today it hosts several butchers and
up to a dozen hatches selling the best zapiekankas in the country.
Tucking into a zapiekanka – a
baked baguette with mushrooms,
cheese, meat or vegetables, topped
with your choice of fresh chives,
mayonnaise or ketchup – from Plac
Nowy is a must for any visitor. The square also features interesting coffee shops and pubs such as
the old-time evocative and candlelit
Alchemia, French-style Les Colours
and Mechanoff. For a more glam night
out, try the cocktails at Le Scandale or
Baroque, or go dancing at Taawa.
For the ultimate dancing experience
in Kasimierz, however, enter the
ENG ES
Si quieres escapar del agobio que
provoca la multitud de turistas
que abarrotan el casco Antiguo de
Cracovia, dirígete a Plac Nowy. La
“Plaza Nueva” se encuentra en el
corazón del antiguo barrio judío de
Kazimierz que se ha convertido en
la zona de moda de Cracovia; una
alternativa para el ocio nocturno y la
cultura urbana que atrae por igual a
polacos, expatriados y a los turistas
más curiosos.
Durante más de dos siglos Plac Nowy
ha sido un lugar de mercado con un
inconfundible edificio circular en el
centro conocido como “Okrąglak”,
que fue usado por la comunidad
judía como un matadero de aves
desde 1927 hasta la Segunda Guerra
Mundial. Hoy en día, el edificio
alberga varias carnicerías y hasta
una docena de casetas donde hacen
las mejores zapiekankas de Polonia.
Comer una zapiekanka – una baguette
Angel, a native of Barcelona, discovers the hidden corners of
Kazimierz and Plac Nowy. After years of
reinvention, Kazimierz is bursting with creative
energy and bohemian charm.
Plac Nowy and the heart of Kazimierz
by Angel Lopez Peiro
Kazimierz has a lively nightlife with hundreds of bars and restaurants
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sewing-machine-themed Singer after
02:00 am to find a crowd of people
dancing energetically to club, gypsy
and klezmer music – many of them
standing on the tabletops where only
hours earlier coffee was served.
In addition to food, drinks and dance,
Plac Nowy has a daily fruit and
vegetable market. At the weekends,
you can find a good selection of
antiques and crafts (on Saturdays)
and clothes (on Sundays) here.
Plac Nowy also hosts the unique
Soup Festival every year in May.
This competition encourages its
participants to cook the best soup
and allows visitors to enjoy a variety
of flavours, from traditional zurek to
innovative recipes like tomato and
banana. At night, an open air concert
and beer are the protagonists.
Highlights
horneada con.
Sin embargo, si lo que estás buscando
es una gran juerga acércate a Singer
a partir de las dos de la madrugada
y encontrarás una multitud de
gente bailando como locos música
electrónica, gitana y klezmer (judía)
– muchos de ellos moviendo el
esqueleto sobre las mesas en que
unas horas antes los clientes del bar
estaban tomando un café. Además
de por su comida, bares y ocio
nocturno, Plac Nowy destaca por su
mercado diario de frutas y verduras.
Los fines de semana este mercado
ofrece también una buena selección
de antigüedades y artesanía (sábados)
y prendas de ropa (domingos) Plac
Nowy acoge también cada año en
mayo el Festival de la Sopa, un evento
único. Se trata de un concurso que
anima a los participantes cocinar la
mejor sopa del certamen y permite a
los visitantes disfrutar de una amplia
variedad de sabores, desde sopas
tradicionales polacas como el zurek
hasta recetas innovadoras como La
sopa de tomate y plátano. Por la
noche, la cerveza y un concierto al aire
libre en medio de la plaza cogen todo
el protagonismo del festival.
ENG ES
A corner of Kazimierz that featured in Steven Spierlberg’s film Schindler’s List Kazimierz captured from a hot air baloon
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Kraków has many cinemas to boast about, but only one like this. ARS opened its doors first time in 1916 and is the oldest cinema in Kraków still to be operational. The cinema has kept the old style and is a truly different and more personal experience than all of the huge and anonymously mundane multiplexes otherwise scattered around the city.
There are five unique viewing halls of
varying sizes, seating from 20 to 170
individuals, each hall with a different
seating arrangement – some feature
traditional cinema chairs, others have
more comfortable armchairs. Even
if located in an old building with
wooden staircases and other “old
world grandness”, ARS was actually
one of the first cinemas in Poland to
Krakow har mange biografer, men kun én som denne. ARS slog første gang dørene op i 1916 og er den ældste biograf i Krakow stadig i brug. Biografen har beholdt den oprindelige stil, og er i sandhed en anderledes og mere personlig oplevelse end de enorme, men anonyme multiplex-biografer, der ellers er spredt gavmildt over hele byen.
Der er fem sale af varierende
størrelse, med pladser til mellem 20
og 170 biografgængere; hver sal med
hver sin sædeindretning – nogle har
almindelige biografsæder og andre
har komfortable lænestole. Selvom
biografen er beliggende i en gammel
bygning, der har beholdt meget af sin
oprindelige storhed, var ARS faktisk
en af de allerførste biografer i Polen til
Kraków has many cinemas to boast
about, but only one like this. Discover why Jens, originally from
Denmark, was captured by the unique ambience
of this hidden jewel of the city’s cultural
scene.
ARS - Kraków Artistic Cinema Centre
by Jens Markussen
ENG DK
ARS Cinema is located in the heart of the Old Town
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install Dolby Digital Surround.
Sadly, ARS was on the verge of closing
down in spring time 2012, as the
private owners of the building on ul.
św. Jana planned to increase the rent
with 100 % - something the cinema
could not cope with. Fans of the
cinema were angered and local media
roared, recalling with horror how the
art nouveau cinema of Kino Wanda a
few hundred meters away had been
turned into a supermarket a few years
Highlights
at installere Dolby Digital Surround.
ARS var beklageligvis tæt på at lukke
i foråret 2012, da de private ejere af
bygningen på ul. św. Jana pludseligt
planlagde at øge huslejen med 100
% - noget biografen ikke var gearet
til kunne håndtere. Biografens
tilhængere var rasende og de lokale
medier buldrede mod planerne,
genkaldende med rædsel for sig
hvordan en gammel art nouveau
biograf i nærheden, Kino Wanda, var
blevet forvandlet til et supermarked
blot få år tidligere.
ARS så ud til at lide samme skæbne,
da et kompromis mellem parterne
pludseligt blev indgået. Selvom det
kompromis indebar, at biografen
mistede sin største sal og dermed 240
pladser, betyder det også, at du stadig
har muligheden for at se en film her.
Gør endeligt det – før det er for sent.
ENG DK
earlier.
It seemed like the ARS complex were
facing the same fate when suddenly a
compromise between the owners and
the tenants was reached. Even if that
deal meant taking away the biggest
viewing hall and thus 240 seats, you
still have the chance to go and enjoy a
film here - but go before it turns into a
Carrefour grocery store.
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This is a tiny, modern place where
activists from local NGOs like to meet
over a cup of high-quality organic and
fair-trade coffee that has been selected
and roasted by the owner. The coffee
was even presented at the Nordic
Roaster Competition in Oslo for the
first time in 2013, an idea supported
by the coffee shop’s Norwegian
customers in Kraków.
On weekdays, anyone can meet at
Karma between 9:00 am and 7:00 pm
(11:00 am-7:00 pm on weekends). The
atmosphere is very home-like, where
the natural wood and pastel colours
let the light in, but with a messy
touch... A few small tables provide
seating for around 30 customers. A
bigger table, which can fit up to 8
popping individuals, is very popular at
lunchtime.
Karma not only serves delicious
Karma Coffee Roasters, une goutte de café dans l’océan du développement durable.
Sur la rue Krupnicza, qui compte le plus de commerces bio qu’aucune autre de Kraków; Karma est sans doute la première cafétéria de la ville à indiquer clairement au menu ses repas végétaliens et sans gluten.
Les activistes des ONG locales
aiment venir dans ce petit bistro
moderne, pour y discuter leurs plans
de changer le monde autour d’une
tasse d’excellent café bio et équitable,
torréfié par le propriétaire. Ce café a
même participé à la Nordic Roaster
Competition 2013 à Oslo, une idée
soutenue par les clients norvégiens
habitués de cette cafétéria de
Cracovie.
Located on Krupnicza Street, which hosts the
largest concentration of eco facilities in Kraków, Karma is probably the first lunch bar in town with vegan and gluten-
free meals clearly indicated on its menu.
Karma Coffee Roasters: A little drop
of coffee in the ocean of sustainable change
by Elisabeth Wójcik
ENG FR
Interiors of Karma lunch bar. Source: Karma
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organic food around noon, but is
also famous for its breakfasts in
the morning and delicious snacks
throughout the day. The friendly
staff provides good service, though
you might wait a little for your order,
especially if you are with a group of
more than four people. To enjoy Slow
Food during a quick lunch break, a
better option might be to order soup
and a salad. The restaurant’s price
range is affordable.
You might also enjoy the relaxed
mood of the place and stay a little
longer, reading the local newspapers
or (not necessarily the most current)
magazines, which are available
for guests. Even children will find
a couple of toys in the small kid’s
corner.
It is definitely a must try for all eco-
food lovers, at least on their way to
one of the neighbouring ecological
shops and restaurants.
For more information, check the
Karma’s Facebook page.
Highlights
En semaine, chacun peut passer à
Karma entre 09h00 et 19h00 (11h00-
19h00 les samedis et dimanches) et
s’y sentir comme chez-soi. L’intérieur
lumineux est décoré de bois naturel
et de couleurs pastel, avec un léger
laisser-aller… Les quelques tables
couvrent environ 30 couverts. La table
d’hôte de huit personnes est souvent
partagée par des inconnus pendant
l’heure de pointe.
À Karma, on sert des repas bio
végétariens à midi, mais le café
est tout aussi réputé pour son
petit-déjeuner du matin et les en-
cas légers disponibles toute la
journée. Le personnel est aimable
et le service convenable, bien qu’il
arrive d’attendre un peu pour sa
commande, surtout pour les groupes
de plus de quatre personnes. Pour
manger du Slow Food vite fait à votre
pause-déjeuner, préférez une soupe
accompagnée d’une salade. Les prix
du restaurant sont raisonnables.
Pour apprécier l’ambiance relaxante
de l’endroit, restez-y un peu
plus longtemps : des journaux et
magazines (pas toujours les plus
récents) sont à votre disposition.
Les enfants aussi trouveront de quoi
s’amuser dans le coin de jeux.
Karma est certainement un
incontournable pour tous les amateurs
d’alimentation bio, ne serait-ce
qu’en chemin vers les boutiques et
restaurants écologiques du voisinage.
Pour en savoir plus, consultez le profil
sur Facebook de Karma.
ENG FR
“ It is definitely a must try for all eco-food
lovers...”
“ Un incontournable pour tous les amateurs d’alimentation bio...”
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The Schindler’s Factory museum houses a vast collection of artefacts and memorabilia from the German Nazi occupation of Kraków during World War II, effectively evoking the atmosphere of Poland’s troubled past.
One should set aside plenty of time.
On my first visit, I spent four hours
taking in the history of wartime
Kraków showcased through sounds,
images, genuine artefacts and
endless recorded and written
testimonies by local residents. Still,
I left with the feeling that I had not
even seen half of all the things on
display.
One of many lingering impressions
is the street sign of Plac Rynek (the
main square in the Old Town) that
Museet Schindler’s Factory fokuserar på tiden runt nazisternas ockupation av Kraków under andra världskriget. Här finns en enorm samling föremål som effektivt frammanar denna synnerligen mörka tid i Polens historia.
Det är en bra idé att ha gott om tid.
Första gången jag var här tillbringade
jag fyra timmar bland ljud, bilder,
filmer och prylar som ger liv till
Kraków under kriget, inklusive otaliga
inspelade och nedskrivna vittnesmål
från lokalbefolkningen. Trots det
långa besöket kändes det som om jag
knappt hunnit med hälften av allt som
visas upp härinne.
Ett av många intryck som etsat sig
fast är torget Ryneks gatuskylt,
som nazisterna först ändrade till
Schindler’s Factory Museum
by Anja Wedberg
ENG SE
Anja, originally from Sweden, spent
hours taking in thehistory of wartime
Kraków, showcasedthrough sounds,
images, artefacts andendless recorded andwritten testimonies.
Schindler’s Factory Museum in Kraków
The museum is located in Oscar Schindler’s
old enamel factory in Podgórze.
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the Nazis changed first to Alter Markt
and then – shudder – to Adolf Hitler
Platz. Another lasting image is a
handwritten note from a seven-year-
old Roman Polanski, Polish directory
who survived Jewish Ghetto in
German Nazi occupied Kraków.
The museum is located in Oscar
Schindler’s old enamel factory in
Podgórze, just south of the Wisła
River (and next to the brilliant
contemporary art museum MOCAK).
It is open Tuesdays-Sundays from
10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. and on
Mondays from 10:00 a.m. to 2:00
p.m., apart from the first Monday of
every month when it is closed.
Entrance is PLN 15 ( concessions PLN
13, family ticket PLN 40). Entrance
is free on Mondays – however, the
number of visitors is restricted due to
safety reasons, so be sure to get there
early or book your ticket in advance.
Highlights
Alter Markt och sedan – jag ryser
– till Adolf Hitler Platz. En annan
bestående minnesbild är den
handskrivna dagboksanteckningen
från en sju år gammal Roman
Polanski.
Museet ligger i Oscar Schindlers
gamla fabrikslokaler i Podgórze, strax
söder om ån Wisła (och vägg i vägg
med ett annat utmärkt museum,
MOCAK – stadens största samling
samtida konst). Schindler’s Factory
har öppet från kl. 10.00 till kl. 18.00
tisdag-söndag och från 10.00 till
14.00 på måndagar, förutom första
måndagen varje månad då det är
stängt.
Inträde PLN 15 (halv biljett PLN 13,
familjebiljett PLN 40). På måndagar
kan du faktiskt gå in helt gratis,
förutsatt att du är kommer i tid:
antalet besökare är begränsat av
säkerhetsskäl. För att vara på säkra
sidan kan du boka biljett i förväg.
ENG SE
A map of Kraków during World War II. Source: Schindler’s Factory Museum
The exhibition Kraków during World War II. Source: Schindler’s Factory Museum
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Kraków´s restaurant scene ranges from simple Polish cooking to gourmet restaurants of various national cuisines. For sure, the ever-present Pizza-Kebab-Chinese-delight is not missed out. The offer for epicureans is clearly defined, though not outstanding. One of Kraków’s mavericks operates by the Wawel Castle. The restaurant Pod Wawelem leaves gastronomic classifications in its wake.
Classical string music is on display in
the high-ceilinged and 150-year-old
main hall. Costumed waiters swarm
out with ultralarge plates and heavy
jugs of beer to rows of tables fully
occupied by guests from around the
world. In spite of the struggle to find a
balance between kitsch and nostalgia,
between beer tent vibe and tradition,
Pod Wawelem – der Habsburger im polnischen Bierzelt
Krakaus Restaurantszene reicht von
einfacher, polnischer Küche bis zu
Gourmetrestaurants verschiedener
Landesküchen. Natürlich darf auch
die allgegenwärtige Pizza-Kebab-
Chinesisch-Beglückung nicht fehlen.
Das lukullische Angebot ist klar
definiert, jedoch wenig originell.
Einer der seltenen gastronomischen
Eigenbrötler Krakaus bewirtet im
Süden der Altstadt. Das Restaurant
Pod Wawelem – wie der Name schon
verrät, liegt das Lokal gleich neben
dem Wawel – schert sich nicht um
gastronomische Klassifizierungen.
Im hohen Hauptraum des 150
Jahre alten Lokals wird klassische
Streichmusik gespielt. Kellner in
Trachten flitzen mit übergroßen
Platten und schweren Bierkrügen
beladen durch die vollbesetzten
Tischreihen. Trotz des Spagats
Pod Wawelem - The Habsburg in a Polish beer tent
by Christian Hamp
ENG DE
... the size of the dishes vary between challenging
and impossible. The opulent meat skewer
hardly fits into a wide-angel lense and can only be conquered
through collective effort, reports Chris from ‘Pod
Wawelem.’
“
“
‘Pod Wawelem’ located next to Hotel Royal
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the restaurant creates an atmosphere
of sociality for locals and tourists
alike.
Not only is the ambience piled on. The
dishes on the menu are predominantly
Polish, though Austrian and Bavarian
classics are on offer as well – among
them the perhaps best Wiener
schnitzel and crispiest pork knuckle
in town. Besides litre-sized steins of
beer, Austrian wines are also served.
One thing the menu does not reveal is
the true dimensions of the dishes.
While prices are surprisingly low
and the quality meanders around
good middle-class, the size of the
dishes vary between challenging and
impossible. In particular, the opulent
meat skewer hardly fits into a wide-
angle lens and can only be conquered
through collective effort. For the
extra-motivated guests who prefer to
play a lone hand, Pod Wawelem offers
one more fact: the sanitary facilities
include a designated stainless steel
vomit basin. It was not handed down,
if it had been used by the Habsburgs.
Highlights
zwischen Kitsch und Nostalgie,
zwischen Bierzelt-Stimmung und
Tradition, schafft das Lokal eine
Atmosphäre der Geselligkeit bei
Einheimischen wie Touristen.
Dick aufgetragen wird nicht nur
beim Ambiente. Die Speisekarte gibt
sich durchaus polnisch, bietet aber
auch österreichische und bayrische
Klassiker – darunter das vielleicht
beste Wiener Schnitzel und die
knusprigste Schweinshaxe der Stadt.
Neben Bier im Maßkrug werden auch
österreichische Weine serviert. Was
die Speisekarte jedoch nicht verrät, ist
das wahre Dimension der Speisen.
Während die Preise überraschend
niedrig sind und die Qualität
gutbürgerlichen Durschnitts
entspricht, variiert die Größe der
Gerichte zwischen herausfordernd
und unmöglich. Vor allem der
opulente Grillspieß passt kaum in
das Weitwinkelobjektiv der Kameras,
und ist nur in Gruppenarbeit zu
bewältigen. Sollten besonders
motivierte Gäste dennoch einen
Alleingang wagen, bietet das Pod
Wawelem eine weitere Skurrilität: Zu
den sanitären Einrichtungen gehört
ein designiertes Brechbecken aus
Edelstahl. Ob dieses schon von den
Habsburgern genutzt wurde, ist nicht
überliefert.
ENG DE
Dining out at Pod Wawelem
“ Not only is the ambience piled on. The dishes on the menu are predominantly Polish, though Austrian and Bavarian classics are
on offer as well.”
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Enjoy your leisure time and explore Kraków from an uncharacteristic vantage point: the banks – or even atop the waves – of the Wisła River.
Being the longest and the most
important river in Poland, the Wisła
River (English: The Vistula) used to
be the main trade route in Poland.
Today it serves as an important hub
for entertainment and cultural events.
For many years, the river’s banks have
been home to an important festival
in Kraków: Wianki, an annual
celebration of the summer solstice.
This festival is accompanied by live
music and street fairs and crowned
with a 15-minute firework show.
The Wisła River has played an
important role in Kraków’s many
legends. While it used to be an idyllic
Geniet van je vrije tijd en verken Kraków vanuit een ongebruikelijke invalshoek: de oevers en het kabbelende water van de Wisła.
De langste en meest belangrijkste rivier in Polen, de Vistula (Pools: Wisła) was de voornaamste handelsroute in Polen. Vandaag de dag dient het als een belangrijke hub voor entertainment en culturele evenementen. Al vele jaren zijn de oevers van de rivier de thuisbasis geweest voor een belangrijk festival in Krakau: Wianki, een jaarlijkse viering van de zomerzonnewende. Dit festival wordt vergezeld met live muziek en braderieën en wordt bekroond met een 15-minuten vuurwerkshow.
De Wisła speelt een belangrijke rol in vele legendes van Krakau. Terwijl het vroeger een idyllische plek voor zwemmers was is het vandaag de dag
Kraków’s lifeblood - The Wisła River
by Anna Cieśla and Derk Zjip
ENG NL
A city’s charm is more than just the
sheen of its facades - Anna and Derk take you down the city’s
main avenue- its river.
The Wisła River is lined with restaurant and bar boats
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place for swimmers, nowadays
swimming in the Wisła River is
prohibited. You can, however, enjoy a
kayak or canoe trip along its banks.
In recent years, cruises on the Wisła
River have not only become one of the
city’s main tourist attractions, but a
great alternative for business parties
and family reunions as well. Recently,
offering marina accommodations
as well. A comfortable boat, cosily
floating in a scenic setting combined
with snacks and a beer, makes it a
unique and unforgettable experience.
Highlights
verboden om in de Wisła te zwemmen. Je kunt echter wel genieten van eenkajak- of kanotocht langs de oevers. In de afgelopen jaren zijn cruises op de Wisła niet alleen uitgegroeid tot een van de belangrijkste toeristische attracties van de stad, maar is het ook een geweldig alternatief voor bedrijfsfeesten en familiebijeenkomsten. Sinds kort bieden ze eveneens accommodaties aan op de jachthaven. Een comfortabele boot, gezellig varende in een schilderachtige omgeving in combinatie met lekkere hapjes en een biertje, maakt het een unieke en
onvergetelijke ervaring.
Een trip over het water biedt ook een mooie gelegenheid om een aantal van de historische plekjes van de stad te verkennen, zoals het middeleeuwse kasteel de Wawel, de benedictijner abdij in Tyniec en de twee oudste wijken, Podgórze en Kazimierz. Daarnaast kan je ook dineren en feesten op het water, of gewoon genieten op het bovendek en de koele bries op je gezicht voelen. Je kunt kiezen uit korte cruises tot tours die meer dan een paar uur duren. Er zijn genoeg opties. De keuze is aan jou.
ENG NL
A water trip also provides a great
opportunity to explore some of
the city’s historical spots, such as
the medieval Wawel Castle, the
Benedictine abbey in Tyniec, and
two oldest districts, Podgórze and
Kazimierz. In addition, a tourist may
also have dinner there, go to a party
on the water, or just find a seat on the
upper deck and feel the cool breeze
on your face. You can choose from
short cruises to tours that last several
hours. Options are many. The choice
is yours.
The Royal Castle on Wawel Hill by the Wisła river. Footbridge leading to old Podgórze quarter.
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Cupcake Corner Bakery
If you’re looking for a lovely place to catch your breath while sightseeing, Cupcake Corner is the café you should visit. The white-blue-brown striped walls, combined with wooden tables and Jack Johnson-like music in the air, invite you to stay, read a magazine and enjoy your coffee break.
Placed in the heart of Kraków, the three locations of this adorable bakery
are easy to find and hard to forget: ul. Bracka 4, ul. Grodzka 60, and ul.
Michałowskiego 14. These venues are worth circling on your map.
In the bakery you will find fantastic cupcakes baked every day. They look
amazing: colourful frosting, small cherries on top or sprinkles all over. You
can have cupcakes that taste of real red velvet, banana split, and cookie dough
– you name it. The insides of cupcakes often hide some sweet surprise like
strawberries or chocolate. For muffin lovers, the bakery has sweet and savoury
muffins.
In the summer, this destination spot has introduced homemade ice cream. All
this tasty food is surrounded by the smell of freshly roasted organic coffee. The
staff is always kind and helpful, making your experience even better.
Устали от прогулок по городу? Отдохните! Переведите дыхание в уютном кафе «Cupcake Corner», полистайте журналы и просто расслабьтесь за чашечкой кофе. Насладитесь временем, проведенном в стильной обстановке: стены в полоску, деревянные столики и музыка в стиле Джека Джонсона.
Расположенные в самом сердце Кракова аж три кафе – их легко найти и невозможно забыть. Брацка (Bracka)4, Гродзка (Grodzka) 60 и Михаловскего (Michałowskiego) 14 – отметьте их на своей карте.
by Katarzyna Morzewska and Elena Gordeeva - Voot
ENG RUS
Visit Cupcake corner just off Karmelicka street.
87 www.thinkkrakow.com
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Simplicity, fresh products and the
final touch – decorations of those little
pieces of art – make your visit truly
enjoyable.
Bakeries are quite small, so it’s good
to come with one or two friends and
truly benefit from this charming place
together. You can eat in or get a take-
away to share with your friends or
family on the Planty or by the Wisła
River on a sunny day.
Highlights
Здесь вам предложат свежие и невероятно вкусные капкейки. Выглядят они изумительно: цветная глазурь, вишенка сверху или полностью обсыпанные конфетти. А внутри капкейка не раз скрыт какой-то сладкий сюрприз – клубника, к примеру, или шоколадка. Любители кекса могут выбрать сладкий кекс или со пряным вкусом. Летом кондитерская предлагает своим посетителям мороженое домашнего приготовления. И все эти вкусные сладости в сочетании с парящим в воздухе ароматом свежеобжаренного органического кофе – что может быть совершеннее?! Приветливый и любезный персонал сделают ваше пребывание еще более приятным и комфортным.
Впечатляет простота во всем, свежесть продуктов и все то, как украшены эти крошечные шедевры. Кондитерские довольно маленькие, поэтому сюда хорошо прийти в небольшой компании и по настоящему насладиться вместе этим очаровательным местом. Вы можете остаться на месте, а в солнечный день лучше забрать еду и напитки с собой и пойти с близкими в знаменитый краковский парк Планты или на набережную Вислы.
http://cupcakecorner.pl
ENG RUS
“Simplicity, fresh products and
the final touch – decorations of those little pieces of art –
make your visit truly enjoyable. “
88 www.thinkkrakow.com
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Dajwór Street in Kazimierz:
Unexpected and worth exploring
by Michał Steckiw and Salvatore Carfora
Unexpected, charming and on the rise. When visiting Kazimierz, make sure you do not miss Dajwór Street, just behind the old synagogue and the remains of the medieval city walls that used to surround Kraków’s Jewish district.
At first sight, the street may not strike
you as anything special – but do not
let the aged facades of the buildings
fool you. Wander down the road
to discover the Galicyan Jewish Museum, the famous bagel shop Bagelmama (the only of its kind in
Kraków), the Cosa Nostra Italian restaurant and an innovative
burger place in the corner of Dajwór
Street and Wawrzyńca Street. The
old tramway line will lead you to the
Kraków Engineering Museum on
Warzynca Street. Few meters left off
Dajwór, on Wawrzyńca street there is
the best Syrian Kebab in town I AM SAMI.
At the weekend, check out Kitsch in
the old printing house at 16 Dajwór
Street – a recently re-opened club
and bar attracting all kinds of young
people, made of several chambers and
inner beer garden. What’s more? This
is one of very few streets in the old
city where you can easily find parking
space, and the bustling Plac Nowy
and Szeroka Street are within walking
distance.
Sorprendente, incantevole e in continua crescita. Quando vi trovate a Kazimierz, non dimenticate di fare un giro su Ulica Dajwór, alle spalle dell’antica sinagoga nei pressi dei resti delle mura medievali che anticamente circondavano il ghetto di Cracovia.
Ad una prima occhiata questa strada
può sembrare come tutte le altre, ma
non lasciatevi ingannare dalle facciate
dei suoi vecchi edifici. Percorrendola
scoprirete il Museo Ebreo della
Galizia, il famoso negozio di bagel
Bagelmama (l’unico nel suo genere a
Cracovia), il ristorante italiano Cosa
Nostra e un innovativo fast-food
dedicato agli hamburger all’angolo
tra Ulica Dajwór e Ulica Wawrzyńca.
I vecchi binari del tram vi porteranno
Museo dell’Ingegneria su Ulica
Warzynca. Nel fine settimana fate
un salto al Kitsch situato nell’antica
tipografia al numero 16 di Ulica
Dajwór: una discoteca amata dai
giovani recentemente riaperta. Non vi
basta? Questa è una delle poche strade
del centro storico dove troverete
facilmente parcheggio (sia custodito
che pubblico), e le movimentate Plac
Nowy e Ulica Szeroka si trovano a
pochi passi da qui.
ENG ITA
89 www.thinkkrakow.com
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Hundreds of pubs and restaurants dot the landscape in old Kraków, but there are only a few high-quality cafes and chocolatiers. A secret has to be answered: Where are these sought-after locations? Chocolate lovers, of course, will search high and low. Finally, you will find chocolate heaven at 8 Wiślna Street. It is called Choco café.
I found it by accident and was
immediately amazed by its design
and ambience. The tempting aroma
of chocolate and coffee could be
experienced in the café’s every nook
and corner. Chill out music switched
on my lazy-ego and allowed me
to relax as I tasted deep original
hot chocolate with raspberries.
The amazing mix of tastes – sweet
Hundrevis av puber og restauranter preger landskapet i Krakows gamle bydel, men det finnes også et fåtall cafeer og chocolaterier av ypperste kvalitet. Hvor de finnes er imidlertid en godt bevart hemmelighet. Hvis du er sjokoladeelsker finner du din sjokoladehimmel i 8 Wiślna gate. Stedet heter Choco café. Jeg fant stedet ved en tilfeldighet
og ble umiddelbart sjarmert av dets
atmosfære. Den fristende aromaen
av sjokolade og kaffe kunne kjennes
i enhver krik og krok. Avslappende
musikk tiltalte mitt late alter-ego og
tillot meg å virkelig slappe av mens jeg
nøt smaken av en original kakao med
bringebær. Den utrolige blandingen
av smaker – søtt og sur, varmt og
Choco café:
chocolate heaven in Kraków
by Grzegorz Kałucki and Hilde Merete Udnaes
ENG NOR
90 www.thinkkrakow.com
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and sour, hot and cold, fruits and
chocolate – was an ideal combination
for me!
Having already visited Choco Cafe
several times, I know that I prefer to
sit in the darker, cosy corners, where
shadowy light sustains romantic
moments and lets the time fly by…
You can taste soft but deep espresso
(as my Italian coffee fans used to
say), order a huge cappuccino, and
consume a variety of deserts or
fresh juice. The place was recently
rebranded. Slight renovations have
enhanced the space and highlighted
the attractive interior design.
Simply put, Choco café is a must visit for chocolate lovers who visit Kraków’s Old Town.
Highlights
kaldt, frukt og sjokolade – var den
ideelle kombinasjonen for meg.
Etter den tid har jeg har besøkt Choco
Café en rekke ganger. Jeg foretrekker
å sitte i en av de mørke, hyggelige
krokene, hvor et skyggefullt lys skaper
en romantisk atmosfære og lar tiden
fly forbi… Du kan kjenne den myke,
men dype espressosmaken (som
mine italienske kaffeelskere pleier
å si), bestille en stor cappuccino
eller nyte det store utvalget av
desserter eller friske juicer. Stedet
fikk nylig nytt navn og gjennomgikk
en mindre ombygging som utvidet
arealet og fikk fremhevet den flotte
interiørarkitekturen. Choco café er
rett og slett et sted du må besøke i
gamlebyen i Krakow.
ENG NOR
Try a soft but deep espresso,
order a hugecappuccino or
consume a variety of deserts and fresh juice.
“
“
91 www.thinkkrakow.com
We Recommend
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92 www.thinkkrakow.com
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Fitness PlatiniumRecently refurbished, large gym in an
industrial area. Recommended for the
great equipment and location close to
the centre.
mogilska.fitnessplatinium.pl
Park Wodny/ Aquapark GymSpacious gym above the aqua park
leisure centre with saunas, swimming
pools, water slides and restaurants.
parkwodny.pl/en
Pure GymsA chain gym with two locations in the
city centre by Galeria Kazimierz and
by Angel City complex. Quite pricey by
Kraków standards.
purepoland.com
Galeria KazimierzAn array of clothing stores, luxury
boutiques, cinemas, a branch of the
eminent Alma supermarket, gym
& swiming pool, restaurants and
more; located next to the river bank
in Kazimierz on Podgórska street.
Probably the most prestigious of the
shopping centres in Kraków.
galeriakazimierz.pl
Futura Park OutletFutura Park lies on the western
outskirts of the city, but it may be
worth the trip if you want to save a
złoty or two on last season’s designer
clothes. Here is also a large Alma
supermarket with specialities from
your home country.
futurapark.pl/?lang=en
M180 shops of all kinds – international
brands and local retailers – under one
roof and 42,000 square metres. Here
is also a big Real hypermarket and
an enormous Praktiker for the do-it-
yourself types out there.
krakow.m1-centrum.pl
Jama Michalika (Old Town)Voted as one of the 15 best
historic cafés in Europe by Global
Grasshopper in 2012, Jama Michalika
has been the most popular café with
local artists for almost one hundred
years.
jamamichalika.pl
Cafe Foyer (Old Town)The café in the basement of the
Juliusz Słowacki Theatre has a fancy
interior that refers to famous Polish
actors and the repertoire in the
theatre’s event calendar. The café also
hosts regular jazz concerts.
cafefoyer.pl
Café Camelot (Old Town)One of the most beautiful cafes in
Poland, Camelot offers a relaxed old-
fashioned candlelit atmosphere and
excellent coffee and food.
Cafe Kalashnikov (Kazimierz)A café, bar and club for visitors
seeking something new and original.
Gyms
Malls
Cafes
Fitness AcademyModern gym with a swimming pool.
Recommended for the spacious
premises and the interior design.
www.fitnessacademy.pl
Bonarka City CenterBonarka is the biggest shopping
centre in Kraków with around 270
shops, including a huge Auchan
hypermarket, clothes and fashion
shops to keep everyone happy,
cinemas for the movie fans and lots of
restaurants and cafés. Five kilometres
south of the city centre.
bonarkacitycenter.pl
Galeria KrakowskaA shopping centre next to main
railway station, with fashion
boutiques, a Carrefour supermarket,
gym, cafés and fast food. Great
location next to the main train station
and only five minutes on foot from the
main market square.
galeria-krakowska.pl
Galeria Krakowska Shopping Centre.
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Eastern European communism
flavour décor and great energy.
Bożego Ciała 7 street, Kazimierz.
Kraina Szeptów Café (Kazimierz) Arty café and pub with bohemian
interior – check out the bell in the
ceiling that announces the next round
of beer! In wintertime, the fireplace
keeps guests warm and cosy. During
summer the small front patio allows
the guests to breathe fresh air and
feel the beat of Plac Nowy. Popular
with visitors and locals alike. Located
on the corner of Plac Nowy on Izaaka
street. Facebook Page.
FarinaLocated in a historic palace tenement
building in the heart of Kraków’s
Old Town, this is one of the best
restaurants in Kraków for homemade
pasta, fresh fish and seafood.
farina.com.pl
Yellow Dog The only true Asian cuisine restaurant
we know in Kraków. Located on
charming Krupnicza street.
facebook.com/restauracja.Yellow.Dog
Jarema Typical cuisine from Kresy, the former
territory of the Eastern provinces
of Poland. The old-time evocative
decoration and live music create a
cosy atmosphere.
jarema.pl
Zielona KuchniaIf you want fresh food from an
innovative, contemporary menu,
this restaurant is just what you have
been looking for. It is usually among
the top restaurants in Kraków on
TripAdvisor.
zielonakuchnia.eu
Warsztat Restaurant & CaféCharming restaurant with two
locations in trendy Kazimierz:
on Izaaka 3 and Bozego Ciala 1.
Recommended for pasta, pizza, sweets
and coffee. restauracjawarsztat.pl
ValparaísoThe best Spanish restaurant in
Poland and the best outside of Spain,
according to our Spanish Editor.
The owner serves an authentic, arty
selection of dishes from Spain and
his native Chile, and wines imported
directly from Spanish vineyards.
Located in Kazimierz, a five-minute
walk from Wawel, this restaurant is a
must for all lovers of Spanish cuisine.
Five stars from the Think Kraków
editorial team.
Read More...
WierzynekWierzynek Restaurant is famous for
its Polish cuisine, unique atmosphere
and the longest tradition of feasting in
Poland. It is inspired by the splendid
feast hosted by Mikolai Wierzynek
in 1364, which many great European
monarchs attended. This is a magical
place - impossible to miss when
visiting the main market square
Rynek.
wierzynek.com.pl
Restaurants
Starka A little treasure in Kazimierz, not far
from the lively Plac Nowy. Modern
Polish food, great wines and a relaxed
atmosphere.
starka-restauracja.pl
Kraina Szeptów Cafe, next to Plac Nowy.
94 www.thinkkrakow.com
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Home Army MuseumThe Home Army Museum is the only
institution in Poland devoted to the
Polish underground movement and
its armed forces during World War II.
Learn about the tragic history of Poland and the struggle against Nazi Germany and the Soviet Union. Fantastic building made of
heritage army barracks and modern
interior courtyard. One of the best
new museums in Kraków. muzeum-
ak.pl/english/index.php
Schindler’s Factory MuseumIt was Steven Spielberg who made
Oscar Schindler’s story well known
worldwide. His Oscar winning epic Schindler’s List from 1993 was filmed in Kraków, in the buildings of the old Schindler’s factory amongst other places. The buildings now house a museum
showcasing the life in the city during
the Nazi occupation from 1939-1945.
Read More...
naturally lit, straight-lined rooms. The
building was designed by the Italian
architect Claudio Nardi and has a total
floor area of almost 10,000 square
metres. www.mocak.pl
Museums
Historic Rynek Underground MuseumThis underground museum in the
very heart of Kraków opened in 2010,
and showcases the history of the city
from the first settlements to present
day. The museum features modern
touchscreens and holograms as well
as original artefacts such as old coins
and a horse’s skull. The queues in
front of the entrance at the Cloth Hall
on the main square can be quite long,
as only 300 visitors are allowed at a
time. Visit Website for more info.
MangghaThis centre, the only one of its kind
in Europe, has two main functions
– it is a traditional museum and a
cultural centre under one roof. As is
implied in the name, it is dedicated to Japanese objects and lectures on Japanese culture and life. The
location on the river bank opposite the
Wawel Castle could not be better.
manggha.pl/en/o-nas
Museum of Contemporary ArtAs one of the most recent additions
to the long list of museums in
Kraków, MOCAK will not disappoint
you. You will be amazed at the
latest international art presented in
Top: Historic Museum underneath the Rynek square. Left: Home Army Museum.
MOCAK Musem in Zabłocie quarter. Check our interactive map on page 3 for location details.
95 www.thinkkrakow.com
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Hotel StaryHome of the English national
football team during the UEFA 2012
championship, this is a heritage
building redesigned to impress even
the most sophisticated visitors. It won first prize in the renowned Paris contest Prix Villégiature as ”the most beautiful hotel interior design in Europe”.stary.hotel.com.pl
Bonerowski Palace HotelThe Bonerowski Palace is located in
a meticulously restored and richly
refurbished UNESCO building dating
back to the Middle Ages. The palace
also prides itself on Europé’s longest,
22-meter long chandelier. Situated
on the corner of Św. Jana Street and
the old market square (Rynek), the
palace windows overlook St. Mary
Basilica, Drapers Hall (Sukiennice),
St. Wojciech’s Church and the statue
of Adam Mickiewicz.
palacbonerowski.com
Sheraton HotelHome of the Dutch national football
team during the UEFA 2012
championship. Situated underneath
the Wawel Royal Castle hill, this is
one of Kraków’s largest hotels with
conference facilities.
sheraton.pl/krakow
Hotel Copernicus Hotel Copernicus is located
on Kanonicza Street, Kraków’s
oldest street that winds its way
toward Wawel Castle. Amidst
the neighbouring Renaissance
townhouses, Copernicus stands out
with its distinct Gothic façade. It is the
only hotel in Poland affiliated to the
exclusive French hotel alliance Relais
et Châteaux. Sleep under original
renaissance frescoes or dive in the
underground medieval swimming
pool. Copernicus has hosted many
celebrities and is one of the most
prestigious places to stay while in
Kraków.
copernicus.hotel.com.pl
Radisson SASStay at the elegant Radisson next to
the old Philharmonic hall, within
walking distance of both Wawel Castle
and the main square Rynek. A hotel
for leisure and business travellers
alike.
radissonblu.com/hotel-krakow
Andels Hotel This modern hotel is part of the
Vienna International Hotels group
and brings interesting design
and functionality to the city’s old
world charm. Located next to
the main railway station and the
Galeria Krakowska shopping mall.
andelskrakow.com
Goodbye Lenin Hostel Communism retro style hostel offers
budget accommodation with a great
bar and lots of interesting features.
Popular among young foreign visitors
who want to get a taste of Polish
socialism. Original and good quality
hostel, well recommended.
goodbyelenin.pl
Accommodation
Greg & Tom Party HostelMeals, concerts and parties, every
day of the week in a great location.
Recommended by international travel
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guides for those who want to have fun
and socialise with fellow travellers.
gregtomhostel.com
Airbnb websiteThis popular website with short term
apartment rentals also has a good
selection of private apartments and
budget accommodation in Kraków’s
old town.
airbnb.com
Singer (Kazimierz)Singer was one of the first bars in
Kazimierz, and it set the standard high
for those that followed. Here a mix of
locals and tourists are found dancing
to a mix of gypsy, klezmer and swing
music. If you wonder why this bar
shares its name with a manufacturer
of sewing machines, well – you need
to go there to find out.
Re (Old Town)Re is renowned for its wonderful beer
garden, which is lined with trees – be
sure to make a reservation in advance.
This bar also excels in attracting
interesting and upcoming bands to
perform on the small stage in the
basement..
Spokój (Old Town)Difficult to find, but definitely worth
the trouble. Spokój means “peace”,
but expect anything apart from that.
Colourful and slightly worn-out
interior, funky music, happy people –
what’s not to like?
La HabanaA taste of Cuba in Kraków, this Cuban
bar serves some of the best mojitos
in town to the sounds of Cuban and
Latin American music. After a few
shots of Havana Club, you will feel like
you are in a bar on a Cuban island.
Park JordanaWhile you will find playgrounds at
most of Kraków’s parks and green
recreational areas, few are as well-
equipped as the ones at Park Jordana.
Slides, sandpits, swings, you name
it – it is all here in abundance. The
park is also good for practising the
first, wobbly moves on a bicycle or
roller-skates, and for sledding come
wintertime.
Read More...
Park Wodny/GibbonAs one of the most advanced water
parks in Europe, with almost 800
metres of slides, a climbing wall and
lots of other fun features, Park Wodny
is a paradise for kids and adults who
like playing around in the water.
Downstairs is a big play area called
Gibbon, where you can leave the kids
under supervision, if you prefer to
do your 1,000 metre swim without
having to worry about the little ones.
parkwodny.pl/en
Drukarnia (Podgorze)Drukarnia was originally located on
the main market square, before it
moved to Kazimierz. When the crowds
discovered Kazimierz, it moved again
– this time to Podgórze, the area
south of the river that is now gaining
popularity on the club scene. Located
by the magical Kładka foodbridge.
Drukarnia is surely ahead of its time
but once inside, you are moved back
in time.
drukarniaclub.pl
Bars
For kids
Park Wodny with almost 800 metres of slides
The La Habana bar in Kazimierz offers a taste of Cuba with the best mojitos in town
97 www.thinkkrakow.com
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Garden of ExperimentsThe Stanislaw Lem Garden of
Experiments is an open-air
educational garden full of fun for the
whole family. Covering six hectares of
the gigantic Park Lotnikow Polskich
between the city centre and Nowa
Huta, the garden has something for
all your senses. Afterwards you can
visit the slide paradise further into the
park area.
ogroddoswiadczen.pl/en.php
Kraków ZooKraków Zoological Garden has
welcomed visitors in the huge forest
area Las Wolski west of the city
centre since 1929. Enjoy the peaceful
greenery in the company of zebras,
elephants, sea lions and rare antelopes
– to name but a few of the almost
300 species you find here. Kids will
especially like the mini zoo and the
chimpanzees.
zoo-krakow.pl/index_en.php
Rogate RanczoA few kilometres outside of Kraków, in
Zabierzów close to the airport, there
is a ranch complete with cowboys
and Indians. The mini zoo with cows,
donkeys, sheep and other animals
can be enjoyed for free, while other
activities are usually subject to a fee.
rogateranczo.eu
Kraków Coke Live FestivalLarge annual outdoor music festival
with various international and Polish
artists. Usually held in August.
livefestival.pl
OFF Plus Camera is an independent film festival
held annually in April. It has
been organised since 2008 with
up to 400 screenings, seminars,
international stars, guests and a jury.
offpluscamera.com
WiankiWianki is one of the biggest Polish
outdoor events relating to ancient
pagan rituals. Recently it changed
character with a new formula that
combines the tradition of midsummer
is entirely dedicated to modern art,
design and architecture. The festival,
that has taken place every year in June
since 2009, turns the city’s public
space into a massive art manifestation
with installations, new media, murals,
paintings and sculptures.
artboomfestival.pl/en
Unsound FestivalUnsound was established in 2003 in
Kraków as a festival for innovative
and experimental music. First an
underground event, the festival has
Festivals
night with world, folk and classical
music. Artists like Jamiroquai (2008)
and Lenny Kravitz (2009), as well
as top representatives of the Polish
music scene have already performed
on the outdoor stage at the foot of
the Wawel Castle. The festivities end
with a huge firework display. It is
no surprise that the festival attracts
crowds from all over the country.
wianki.eu
Art Boom FestivalThe Art Boom Festival of visual arts
Wianki Festival in Kraków. Fireworks show by the Wawel Castle.
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allowed itself to expand in recent
years, to great acclaim.
www.unsound.pl
Sacrum ProfanumSacrum Profanum Festival is
an international project that
has earned the status of one of
the most interesting European
music events. The festival aims to
blur the line between ambitious,
contemporary music and more
accessible entertainment within the
experimental scene.
sacrumprofanum.com/
WOW NightWOW! Night is an unusual ending
to the year – on 31 December, the
main market square in Kraków
transforms into an enormous night
club with a dance floor of an area of
almost 10,000 square metres. On
stage, top DJs from the world of club
and electronic music perform. At
midnight, the new year is greeted in
style with a unique pyrotechnical and
confetti show.
sylwester.krakow.pl
Photography MonthKraków is a picturesque city that also
happens to host one of the major
photography events in Europe –
Kraków Photomonth runs from May
until June each year. .
photomonth.com
Jewish Culture Festival Celebrate Kraków’s Jewish heritage
and history with concerts, exhibitions,
presentations and outdoor events.
This international festival is held in
Kazimierz every summer.
jewishfestival.pl
Jewish Cultural Festival in Kazimierz WOW Night, New Years Eve Celebration.
Kraków OId Town: home to the city many festivities.
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New in Kraków and looking for networking opportunities with other expats or professionals? Here is a short selection of regular networking events in Kraków:
Making SoftwareA reccuring networking event and a
seminar for IT developers and digital
professionals in Kraków. Organized by
Making Waves in collaboration with
its local partners. Check Facebook and
Making Software website for details.
www.makingsoftware.pl
Spaniards in KrakówJoin the fast growing community of
Spanish speaking Kraków residents.
facebook.com/groups/69985602206
Sweds in KrakówA networking group for local Swedes:
facebook.com/groups/364852543611708
Kraków Hiking Meetup GroupThis group is for anyone with a
passion for mountain views, fresh air
and endorphins... and whatever your
heart discovers on the trail.
meetup.com/Krakow-Hiking-Meetup-Group
Kraków Fooding In & OutThis group meets to discover and
create new flavours, be it by meeting
up in restaurants or by hosting
cooking events in their private
kitchens. This group welcomes anyone
for whom food is fun, rather than a
necessity.
meetup.com/Krakow-Fooding
Smartup Meetup Are you interested in the everyday
challenges behind recruiting
software? Are you fascinated by new
technologies, how software can help
in fighting unemployment, handling
scale problems of large systems, how
big data solves big problems, how to
grow your start-up in a smart way,
how to build systems that are loved
by their users and how to optimize
recruiting with software gripping?
Well then, this meetup is for you.
meetup.com/SmartUpMeetup
Domain Driven Design This is a group for people interested
in Domain Driven Design. They want
to promote DDD in Kraków and share
knowledge, ideas and experience. Join
NetworkingDDD to discuss the benefits and trade-
offs that DDD can offer.
meetup.com/DDD-KRK
English clubEnglish language meetup club in
Kraków.
facebook.com/groups/232852183397495
There are plenty of professional networking events in Kraków
100www.thinkkrakow.com
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Kraków Culinary Icons
Zapiekanka Do not leave Kraków without trying a
zapiekanka, Poland’s contribution to
fast food culture: a fresh baguette with
cheese and your choice of toppings
- meat, vegetables, tuna, pineapple
or mushrooms, fresh herbs and
mayonnaise or ketchup. The finest in
town are served in the rotunda in the
middle of Plac Nowy in Kazimierz.
Best ice cream in Kraków? Head to Starowiślna Street 83 in
Kazimierz for home-made traditional
ice cream to take away. By far best ice
cream in town – expect long queues
on sunny days. In the winter, they
serve fresh, home-made doughnuts.
Try also the Sicilian gelato served at
Katané on Slakowska, where many
fans line up even when it rains!
Pierogi Polish ‘dumplings’ with various
fillings: meat, cheese & potatoes,
cabbage & mushrooms or fruit. You
find them in almost every restaurant
serving Polish food. We recommend
‘Pod Wawelem’ (by Wawel Castle),
Wierzynek restaurant (by the
main square Rynek), ‘Przystanek
Pierogarnia’ (at Bonerowska Street
14), or Zapiecek restaurant (at
Sławkowska 32).
Kebab Our favourite kebab place in town is
Sami Oriental Food at Wawrzynca
Street 27 in Kazimierz. It is run by
Syrian residents who serve both
Syrian and Lebanese delights.
Pierogi (top picture) and a zapiekanka (bottom picture)
101 www.thinkkrakow.com
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Culture
Theaters There are many great theatres
in Kraków, of which the Juliusz
Slowacki Theatre is arguably the most
beautiful. Teatr Groteska favours
colour and imagery over spoken
language, so foreigners can also
follow the stage action, while Stary on
Plac Szczepanski is legendary. For a
different experience, check out Teatr
Ludowy in Nowa Huta.
Classical musicThe Kraków Opera, dating back to the
17th century, finally got its own home
in 2008. Although the building itself,
at the Rondo Mogilskie roundabout,
is nothing special, the performances
are world class. If you enjoy a
symphony rather than opera arias,
do not hesitate to visit the Kraków
Philharmonic – the first of its kind in
Poland and quite spectacular.
Galleries The city centre is practically
overflowing with art galleries –
outdoor, indoor, commercial,
independent – you name it. At
Bunkier Sztuki , with its distinct
modernistic façade towards the
Planty, you can spend hours taking
in renowned international and
Polish art exhibitions. For a unique
art experience, head to Pauza
on Florianska, where a cosy bar
doubles as a gallery with interesting
photographs.
Non-classical music venuesKraków has a few large indoor venues
for Polish and international acts not
quite in the super league. Garbage
played at Klub Kwadrat close to Nowa
Huta recently, and Klub Studio next to
AGH has been host for Morrissey and
The National, among others. Forty
Kleparz and Lizard King are other
venues with regular live music of all
genres.
Cinemas – There are a number of big
screen multiplexes, historical cinemas
and film festivals in Kraków. If you
are looking for a cosy, romantic movie
night, we particularly recommend
ARS and Pod Baranami, both located
in the city centre. Most of the large
shopping malls have modern cinemas
with huge screens - try Cinema City in
Galeria Kazimierz, Bonarka or Plaza.
Contact
Think [email protected]
www.thinkkrakow.comul. Adama Asnyka 9
31-144 Kraków, Poland.
PhotographyMichał Steckiw
Radosław Piekarz
David Corral
iStock Photography
Kraków is riding on the crest of a wave...
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