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Darwin Wiggett & Samantha Chrysanthou
National Park
All 4SeasonsYoho
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Yoho National ParkEvery guidebook on the Canadian Rockies reminds us that “yoho” is the Cree word for “awe”, and indeed awesome is an apt adjective for describing Yoho National Park. Yoho, although one of the smallest national parks in the Canadian Rockies, is easily one of the most scenic. But this beautiful area does not give up her scenery easily! The 46-kilometre stretch of the Trans-Canada Highway that runs through Yoho is heavy with fast moving traffic. The highway has few pull offs, and the shoulders of the highway are often dangerously narrow. In short, leisure sightseeing and photography along this highway is a frustrating and risky proposition.
There are three roads in Yoho that feature less traffic and more scenic possibilities for the photographer. These include the Yoho Valley, Emerald Lake, and Wapta Falls roads. But to really see the best of Yoho, photographers need to get away from the roads and onto the hiking trails because, of all the parks in the Rockies, Yoho has the greatest concentration of outstanding hiking trails. So buff up your boots, grab some granola bars, shoulder your pack, and get ready to walk a little farther for those stunning shots we all crave.
This eBook will guide you to the best places at the right time in the prime hiking and driving months of May
through October. We’ll cover great stops along the three scenic roads in Yoho as well as along some of the best trails in
the region. Let’s get started!
Wiwaxy Peaks and Cathedral Mountain from the Opabin Plateau (Canon EOS-1N, Canon 20mm lens, f22, Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer,
Singh-Ray 2-stop soft-edge grad, Fujichrome Velvia 50 slide film)
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Getting StartedYoho National Park is located along the spine of the Great Divide in the Canadian Rockies which separates Alberta and British Columbia (BC). Yoho is on the BC side of the divide and is adjacent to Banff National Park in Alberta. The nearest international airport is in Calgary, Alberta, a 221-kilometre drive (3 hours). The Trans-Canada Highway (Highway 1) runs through Yoho National Park and is the direct connector from Calgary. The town of Field, BC lies in the heart of Yoho National Park and provides basic tourist services including lodging, food, gas and information. The town of Lake Louise in Banff National Park is 27 kilometres east while Golden, BC is 55 kilometres west.
This guide is divided into sections based on the three access roads plus a couple of stops along the Trans Canada Highway and the two main hiking areas in Yoho National Park. Simply look up the road or hiking area you are interested in, follow along using the distances and GPS coordinates given and you’ll find the best photographic potential that Yoho has to offer. The maps on the previous page are a good starting point to give you a general orientation of the area and the location of the roads and hiking areas described in this eBook.
Please note that the GPS coordinates are not of any specific locale or where you should set up your tripod for particular photos but are instead the location of overlooks or trail-head parking spots where you should start exploring for compositions of your own.
Mileage and GPS coordinates are approximate (as odometer and GPS accuracy varies) and so we highly recommend you purchase good topographic/road maps of the area to keep yourself properly orientated.
We use Gem Trek Maps (www.gemtrek.com). These maps have the roads, trails, stops of interest, names of mountains, and topographic information which will supplement the information presented in this eBook. We claim no responsibility for the accuracy of mileage markers or the GPS coordinates.
The Kicking Horse River above the Natural Bridge (Nikon D200, Nikon 17-55mm lens at 22mm, 0.7s at f16,
Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer)
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When to GoThis eBook covers spring, summer and fall in Yoho National Park. Below we have summarized the highlights of each season so that you can decide which month is best for your visit. Please note that the seasons in the Rockies do not follow the traditional temperate calendar of seasons. The winter is long (very long!) and the spring, summer and fall are relatively short (sometimes all three seem to happen in one week!). Pick when you plan to go carefully and expect snow almost any month. Below we have summarized the highlights of each season. Good luck with the weather.
MayMay is the season of transition from winter to spring in Yoho National Park. The low elevation lakes (e.g. Emerald Lake) are ice-free in early to mid-May while higher elevation lakes (e.g. Lake O’Hara) do not completely melt until mid-June.
During the last two weeks of May the aspen trees and willows in low valleys leaf out contrasting fresh lime greens with snow-capped peaks.
Bears are active in valley bottoms and along highways and roads where they are seen dining on ‘ditch salad’ (new vegetation) or they can be
Mount Vaux as seen from the Wapta Road Marsh in mid-May (Canon EOS-1ds, Canon 20mm lens, 0.5s at f22, Singh-Ray
Gold-N-Blue Polarizer, Singh-Ray 3-stop soft-edge grad)
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seen hoovering up spilled grain along the railway tracks. Although deer, elk and sheep are numerous and easily photographed during May, they look like grunge rock stars with shaggy unkempt fur that is shedding off in huge clumps. Also be aware that wood ticks are abundant during the spring and you should check yourself after a day’s outing for these pesky critters. To learn more about the Rocky Mountain Wood Tick and how to protect yourself from and remove ticks please consult; http://www.agf.gov.bc.ca/cropprot/ticksbc.htm.
May is a good season for accommodations because almost all facilities offer low season or early season rates. Hiking in May is restricted to lower elevation and south-facing trails. Not all roads or campgrounds will be open in May so access to some locations in this eBook
will be limited. For example, the Yoho Valley Road often does not open until mid-June. The Emerald Lake Road is open all year and the Wapta Falls Road opens in mid-May most years. In May only the Monarch Campground is open, it is located
3 kilometres east of Field at the beginning of the Yoho Valley Road. Check with the Yoho Park office for information on restrictions or seasonal road and campground closures (250-343-6783).
JuneWith fresh green throughout the valleys, and the high peaks still sugar-frosted with snow, June is a splendid month for photography in Yoho National Park.
By mid to late June all campgrounds and roads are open. In June a myriad of low elevation flowers begin to carpet valley meadows. June also has the longest days of the year; photographers interested in capturing the dawning and waning light of a clear day will be up by 5:00 a.m. and to bed after 11:00 p.m. As well, the sun rises and sets the furthest north at this time of year and some locations with north-east and north-west facing mountain ranges need to be shot in June to look their best.
Dwarf Canadian Primrose along the shores of Emerald Lake in May
(Canon EOS-1ds, Canon 100mm macro lens, 1/60s at f2.8) Dwarf Canadian Primrose along the
shores of Emerald Lake in May (Canon EOS-1ds, Canon 100mm
macro lens, 1/60s at f2.8)
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Although June is grand for both landscape and wildlife photography do be forewarned that clear skies are rare because June is the rainiest month in Yoho National Park. And rain is more common in Yoho than in adjacent Banff National Park. Be prepared and expect stretches of grey, soggy conditions for several days. Don’t pack in your camera on overcast days though: for us June is a great month for intimate landscapes, waterfalls, canyons, and detail shots.
Unnamed stream through the forest near Emerald Lake (Canon EOS-1ds Mark III, Canon TSE 24mm lens, 8.0s at
f16, Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer).
Lake Victoria, Lake Oesa Trail in July (Nikon D200, Nikon 17-55mm lens at 20mm, 1/20s at f14,
Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer)
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These are the summer months in the Canadian Rockies. By mid-July, even the high alpine trails are snow-free, and the back-country hiking season begins in earnest. Wonderful hiking is available throughout Yoho especially in the Lake O’Hara and Yoho Valley areas. Summer is the time for sighting baby animals and for photographing vast alpine meadows coloured with delicate wildflowers. Prime time for alpine flowers is the last week in July and the first week in August.
The summer season sees the return of larger crowds, busier highways and expensive accommodations. If you plan to camp in one of the five front country campgrounds in Yoho get to your chosen spot early (before 2 p.m.). Yoho National Park campgrounds do not take reservations (except for Lake O’Hara campground; campsites are first come, first serve only.
July and August are less rainy than June but be prepared for some wet days. Fall colours begin at the end of August in the high alpine (summer is short here!).
July & August
Mount Huber reflected in Lake O’Hara (Canon EOS-1ds Mark III, Canon 17-40mm lens at 17mm, 1.3s at f16, Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer, Singh-Ray 2-stop hard-edge grad)
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September is our favorite month in Yoho National Park. The crowds, although still large, are beginning to thin (well a tiny bit anyway). All the trails and roads and most campgrounds are open (although Hoodoo Creek Campround and the Wapta Falls Road often close in mid-September) and the scenery and the wildlife look top-notch.
The elk are in rut, and fog and mist are common in the mornings to add atmosphere to the landscape.September is one of the driest months of the year usually offering weeks of superb weather for hiking
September
and photography. As well, the alpine larch trees are stunning in mid- to late September, and it is worth all the effort it takes to get up into the Opabin Plateau above Lake O’Hara. For photography, hiking and travelling it simply does not get much better than this! Occasionally an early-season snow-storm coats the fall colours with a frosting of snow that looks absolutely stunning.
If we only had two weeks of the year to visit the Canadian Rockies, we would pick the last two weeks of September when the fall colours are prime.
Larch in September colours, Hungabee Lake, Opabin Plateau (Nikon D300, Nikon 17-55mm lens at 26mm, 1/6s at f14,
Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer)
September colours along the Emerald Lake shoreline (Canon G11, 25mm, 1/20s at f4.5, Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer)
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October is one of the quietest months of the year in Yoho National Park. It’s too early for skiing, too cold for hiking and camping (for most people), and the park is all but empty. Late season fall colours still abound in early October but early snow falls, plenty of road-side wildlife, and the crystalline edging of lakes icing over are the subtle rewards to nature photographers who venture onto the parkway later in October. As well, the rivers are flowing low and access to some canyons and interesting river shorelines are best at this time of the year. The low angled light and short days make photography almost civilized!
October
Fall colours in October along the shore of Emerald Lake (Canon Rebel T2I, Sigma 17-50mm lens at 34mm, 2.5s at
f14, Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer)
Water sculptured shoreline along the Kicking Horse River at low water levels in October
(Canon EOS-1ds, Canon 70-200mm lens at 200mm, 1.4s at f16)
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This eBook is not meant to be an accommodation guide. The internet has loads of information on places to stay in Yoho (and adjacent Banff National Park) so we recommend checking there for deals on hotels and lodges. We use www.canadianrockies.net and www.field.ca/accommodations/ to find our accommodations.
For those planning to camp in Yoho National Park the link below will take you to the Parks Canada campground listings - http://www.pc.gc.ca/pn-np/bc/yoho/visit/camping/avantpays-frontcountry.aspx.
Remember that campgrounds fill fast during July and August so get your spot by early afternoon. For those interested in backcountry camping you will need to make reservations and get a Wilderness Pass (telephone 250 343-6783). Visit this site for more information on backcountry sites - http://www.pc.gc.ca/pn-np/bc/yoho/activ/activ14.aspx
Where to Stay
Lake O’Hara boat dock (Mamiya 645 Pro TL, Mamiya 35mm lens, f22, Singh-Ray LB Warming
Polarizer, Singh-Ray 2-stop hard-edge grad, Fujichrome Velvia 50 slide film)
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This guide to the photographic hot spots in Yoho National Park is simple to use. Pick the section of the park (based on access roads or hiking area) you wish to explore and then within each section we situate the basic location with mileage markers, GPS coordinates, and trail descriptions (these are approximate only). For each location we suggest what time of day and which month or months are best for a visit to that spot. Finally, we give you a description of what there is to photograph at that spot along with a hint or two on the best way to approach the location.
Because the time of sunrise and sunset varies widely over the seasons, we highly recommend you obtain information on these times during your visit. We use The Photographer’s Ephemeris (TPE- http://photoephemeris.com) as our tool of choice not only for determining time of sunrise or sunset but also to calculate the precise location of each event.
How to Use this Guide
Emerald Lake and Mount Burgess from the northwest end of the lake (Canon EOS-1ds, Canon 20mm lens, 0.8s at f16, Singh-Ray Gold-N-Blue polarizer, Singh-Ray 3-stop soft-edge grad filter)
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If you are new to photography or have never photographed in the mountains before and need some tips on making better images, then we suggest you study and practice your craft before embarking on a trip to the Canadian Rockies.
Check out: www.oopoomoo.com for tips, techniques, eBooks and links for learning photography.
Scattered throughout this eBook are some photographic tips and techniques that can be used at specific locations in Yoho National Park. Now, on to the locations!
A Word on Photographic Techniques
Forest detail at the Meeting-of-the-Waters (Nikon D300s, Nikon 17-55mm lens at 55mm, 5.0s at f14, Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer)
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The Yoho Valley Road turns off the Trans Canada highway 12.6 kilometres west of the Alberta/BC border or 3.7 kilometres east of the Field, BC border (GPS 51 25' 01.0"N 116 26' 31.8"W).
This 13.7-kilometre road runs up the Yoho Valley passing through a deeply carved valley
with impressive peaks, plunging waterfalls, roaring rivers and hanging glaciers. The road is open late June through late September (weather dependant) and is a must-do drive in the Canadian Rockies.
But be warned: driving this road is not for the faint of heart, especially if you have a RV or motorhome (where the famous switchbacks cause drivers of larger vehicles consternation -- more on that later). The Yoho Valley Road is good anytime of the day but is especially wonderful from sunrise to mid-morning and then again in the evening to sunset. Overcast days are also productive. Below we outline specific locations along the road. Take your time, soak it all in and happy shooting!
Yoho Valley Road
Where: Just 0.8 kilometres up the Yoho Valley Road is a parking lot to drop off trailers (right side) and the entrance to the Monarch Campground (left side). Trailers are not allowed on the Yoho Valley Road so if you’re pulling your accommodations then drop it off here before proceeding. This is also the point where if the Yoho Valley Road is closed for the season it will be blocked off at this location.
GPS 51 25' 08.4"N 116 26' 31.8"W
When: This location is really about camping or dropping off your trailer but we have made some nice intimate landscape images here while walking through the campground. Best in overcast light or sunrise to mid-morning and then again in late afternoon to sunset.
How: Take a break and walk through the campground especially under overcast light to make intimate scenes of the mixed deciduous and coniferous forest here. Also local wildlife like Grey Jays, Red Squirrels, Columbian Ground Squirrels and Elk frequent the campground so be prepared with the right lens and a sharp eye. For us, this is
Monarch Campground & Trailer Drop-off
Take your time, soak it all in and happy shooting!
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the least desirable campground in Yoho because of the proximity to the Trans Canada Highway at the bottom of a steep hill. Avoid camping here unless hearing engine retarder brakes all night long is music to your ears.
Where: 1.3 kilometres along the Yoho Valley Road you’ll come to the first bridge crossing the Yoho Valley Road with views to Mount Ogden at sunset. Cathedral Mountain Chalets is to the right, and the Kicking Horse Campground is to the left across the bridge.
GPS 51 25' 22.1"N 116 26' 10.9"W
When: Sunset or overcast light, any month.
How: Show up in the evening or at sunset and grab shots of the Kicking Horse River leading to Mount Ogden. Or seek out intricate, abstract detail shots of the Kicking Horse River under overcast light. We like to use our solid neutral density filters to make exposure times longer capturing a silky river flowing over the boulders.
Cathedral Mountain Chalets & the Kicking Horse River Bridge
Intimate forest scene in the Monarch Campground (Nikon D300s, Nikon 17-55mm lens at 24mm, 10.0s at f14,
Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer)
Detail of the Kicking Horse River from the First Bridge on the Yoho Valley
Road (Canon EOS-1ds Mark III, Canon 24-70mm lens at 65mm, 10.0s at f16,
Singh-Ray Vari-N-Trio ND filter)
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Where: A second bridge crosses the Kicking Horse River at kilometre 2.1. There is a pull-off for parking across the bridge on the left side of the road.
GPS 51 25' 33.9"N 116 25' 36.9"W
When: There are nice views here looking back to Mount Stephen at sunrise and Mount Ogden at sunset. Overcast days are also good for detail shots of the river and shoreline.
How: To capture the low angled warm light of sunrise and sunset kissing the peaks while the river is deep in shadow is difficult for digital cameras. You will need to use filters to reduce the contrast range of the scene; we always use a polarizer and a grad filter to help even out the exposure. The dark part of grad filter goes over the sky and the mountain while the clear part of the grad filter lets light come through the foreground. If you have no idea what a grad filter is or how to use one, then head over to www.oopoomoo.com for more information on this topic. Another alternative is to make several different exposures and then blend these together in photo software using layers or High Dynamic Range (HDR) software (see oopoomoo.com for links on these subjects as well).
The Second Bridge
Mount Stephen at sunrise from the Second Bridge on the Yoho Valley Road (Canon EOS-1ds Mark III, Canon 24mm TSE lens, 0.8s at f16, Singh-Ray LB
Warming Polarizer, Singh-Ray 2-stop hard-edge grad filter over mountain and sky)
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Where: A parking lot on the right side of the road at kilometre 3.0 that has interpretive information about the famous Spiral Tunnels (a solution to get trains up and down the steep grade of the pass between Yoho and Banff National Parks).
GPS 51 25' 58.2"N 116 25' 19.6"W
When: A great spot for sunrise views down the Yoho Valley Road to Mount Stephen.
How: Get here for first light to capture Mount Stephen looming over the Yoho Valley Road. We like to make images with roads leading to mountains because these kinds of shots sell well for commercial purposes.
Spiral Tunnel Viewpoint
View down the Yoho Valley Road to Mount Stephen at sunrise from the Spiral Tunnels parking lot (Canon EOS-1ds Mark III, Canon 24mm TSE lens, 1.0s at f11, Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer)
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Where: A parking lot on the right side of the road at kilometre 3.1 overlooks the confluence of the Yoho and Kicking Horse Rivers.
GPS 51 26' 10.1"N 116 25' 15.2"W
When: Anytime, but for detail shots of the confluence and flowing waters overcast is best. At sunset there are great views to Cathedral Crags. Most of the summer (June through August) both rivers are torrents. If you want shoreline photography you’ll need to come during low water flows (May, September and October).
How: We like this spot not only to play with fast moving water in our photos but also for the beautiful forest scenes here. If you want the big grand landscape come back at sunset to get last light on the Cathedral Crags with the frothing river waters in the foreground. We often come here when the water levels are low to do shoreline work with water flowing over logs and rocks.
Meeting-of-the-Waters Viewpoint
Cathedral Crags above the Meeting-of-the-Waters (Canon EOS-1ds Mark III, Canon 24mm TSE lens, 1/5s at f10, Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer)
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Where: Look for a long pull-off on the right side of the road parallel to the Yoho River at kilometre 4.1.
GPS 51 25' 21.9"N 116 26' 15.0"W
When: Good in overcast light for river details; try sunrise for first light on Mount Stephen.
How: Park your car in the long pull-off (on the right) and make your way to the shore of the Yoho River (be extremely careful though; the river is a deadly torrent! Stay well away from the river’s edge). If you’re aiming to get a sunrise shot be sure to use a wide angle zoom lens to get everything in from foreground to background. A solid neutral density filter is useful if you want to show the river as a milky blur (use a shutter speed longer than 1/8s).
If you want to show the water the way the human eye sees it, then try a shutter speed of 1/125s.
You may need to boost your ISO in the dim light of sunrise for your camera to use faster shutter speeds.
Yoho River Viewpoint
The Yoho River and Mount Stephen at sunrise (Canon EOS-1ds Mark III, Canon 24mm TSE, 1/5s at f11, Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer)
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Where: From kilometre 6.1 to 6.5 is a series of switchbacks in the road that are one of the highlights of driving up the Yoho Valley.
GPS 51 27' 10.4"N 116 26' 23.6"W
for the start of the switchbacks
GPS 51 27' 19.4"N 116 26' 23.6"W
for the upper parking lot above the switchbacks
When: For photography of the switchbacks overcast light or shade is best; for pure fun watching stressed drivers any time of day is good!
How: The three-tiered S-curve in the road is comprised of two very tight switchbacks that cause much stress and panic among drivers. Regular-sized vehicles don’t have much problem negotiating the two 180-degree hairpin turns. But if you drive a motor home, you’ll need to be skilled at driving in reverse to negotiate through the switchbacks. At the first turn, you inch your front bumper to the guardrail and then back up the road (in the appropriate lane!) to the next turn. There, you inch your back bumper to the guardrail and proceed forward up the rest of the hill. The process is repeated in reverse on the way down. Very fun, especially when two motor homes or tourist buses
Yoho Valley Switchbacks
are working the switchbacks in opposite directions at the same time! This is a prime spot for making some really funny home movies of the stresses of driving mountain roads in over-sized behemoths. Needless to say, trailers are not allowed on the Yoho Valley Road.
The famous switchbacks along the Yoho Valley Road (Canon EOS-1ds Mark III, Canon 24mm TSE lens, 0.8s at f11,
Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer)
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Where: Look for the large avalanche slope on the side of Wapta Mountain (left side of the road) at kilometre 8.2.
GPS 51 28' 09.5"N 116 27' 45.7"W
When: Anytime.
How: We almost always stop here to scan the slopes for wildlife such as bears and marmots that frequent the avalanche slope. We also like the flowers here in the summer and the road shot to Cathedral Crags at sunrise and sunset.
Avalanche Slopes
Yoho Valley Road in late afternoon looking towards Cathedral Crags from the Avalanche Slope (Canon EOS-1ds Mark III, Canon 45mm TSE lens, 0.3s at f11, Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer)
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Where: Look for a pull-off on the right side of the road at kilometre 10.6 for views back down the valley towards Cathedral Crags.
GPS 51 28' 49.4"N 116 28' 00.1"W
When: Best sunrise to mid-morning and late afternoon to sunset.
How: This is a good stop to make peak portraits of Cathedral Crags on Cathedral Mountain or to switch to a telephoto lens and makes images of the Yoho River far below in the steep-sided canyon just off the road.
Yoho Valley Viewpoint
Where: Look for a view of Takakkaw Falls that lines up with the Yoho Valley Road at kilometre 12.1.
GPS 51 29' 08.9"N 116 28' 40.2"W
When: Best late afternoon to sunset light. Highest volume of water coming off the falls is mid-June to mid-August.
How: Find a safe place to pull off the road (100 meters further up the road is a safer place to park). Walk back to photograph the road and the falls together. A 70-200mm lens is perfect for a nice tight shot of both together. Don’t forget to add a polarizer and rotate it to remove any reflective glare on the road and surrounding vegetation.
Takakkaw Falls & the Yoho Valley Road
Cathedral Crags portrait (Canon EOS-1ds Mark III, Sigma 120-400mm lens at
183mm, 1/20s at f11, Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer)
Takakkaw Falls from the Yoho Valley Road (Canon EOS-1ds Mark III, Sigma 120-
400mm lens at 120mm, 1/15s at f14, Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer).
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Where: At kilometre 12.6 there is a small pull-off on the side of the road that gives nice views across an opening in the forest.
GPS 51 29' 15.4"N 116 28' 28.1"W
When: Best on overcast days or from late afternoon to sunset. Highest water levels are in June and July.
How: At the pull off, try a telephoto zoom for tighter compositions which eliminate the sky. In good light, try a wider view to portray the contextual landscape surrounding the falls. Craning upwards, you begin to understand why the Cree named this high waterfall “Takkakaw” which translates to ‘it is magnificent’. The falls originate from the waters of the Waputik Icefield and drop 380 metres to garner the accolade of one of the tallest waterfalls in North America.
Long Views of Takkakaw Falls
A wider view of Takkakaw Falls (Canon EOS-1ds Mark II, Canon 24-85mm lens at
54mm, 1/50s at f16, Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer)
Takkakaw Falls (Canon EOS-1ds, Canon 70-200mm lens, 1/10s
at f20, Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer)
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Where: The parking area for the falls is at the end of the Yoho Valley Road at kilometre 13.7.
GPS 51 29' 48.1"N 116 28' 57.9"W
When: Overcast days or mid-day to sunset.
How: At the main parking lot, a trail runs south along the Yoho River with many views to the falls. A bridge crosses the river and follows Takakkaw Creek to the foot of the falls. Although Takakkaw Falls is a busy place, it doesn’t feel crowded like Athabasca Falls in Jasper, thanks to the many good spots to shoot from. The falls face west so they are well lit from mid-day to sunset. My favorite time to shoot them is in the evening when the setting sun colours the spray at the foot of the falls with rainbows. Bring lots of lens tissue, a waterproof windbreaker, and as much patience as you can muster if you plan to chase rainbows at the base of this towering spray of water.
Takakkaw FallsTakkakaw Falls from Takkakaw Creek
(Canon EOS-1ds, Canon 24-85mm lens at 38mm, 1/60s at f11, Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer)
From the base of Takkakaw Falls shot at sunset (Canon EOS-1ds, Canon 24-85mm lens at 30mm,
1/50s at f13, Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer)
Photo Tip Hiking with Camera Gear
We’ve seen photographers hiking the trails of Yoho with all manner of gear, from oversized single-strap shoulder bags, to aluminum studio cases. And these same folks are dressed in jeans, leather jackets, and wearing loafers or high heels. Wilderness photography demands wilderness gear, not clothing and equipment that is more suited for the mall or studio. Mountain weather and mountain terrain is unpredictable and unforgiving. It is best to be prepared especially if you plan to venture out for a day hike into the amazing alpine environs of the Canadian Rockies. Here are a few guidelines to help the uninitiated.
Less is more. Take the minimum amount of camera gear necessary. On day hikes a single all-purpose zoom lens (e.g. 24-105mm for a full frame or a 17-85mm for a small sensor camera) is all we need. If we know that wildlife is a good bet on a hike we will also throw in a lightweight 70-300mm lens. We also bring a few digital media cards, a polarizer, a cable release, and a lightweight tripod (we like carbon fibre tripods because they are light and strong – we have more information on oopoomoo.com about tripods). There have been times when we wished we had a certain piece of equipment along (a different lens, or a flash for example), but
generally we can cover everything we want with this small arsenal of gear. In the past, we have carried big packs with much more gear on long day hikes. In the end, all we succeeded in doing was sapping ourselves of energy. We had little left over to do good photography or enjoy the experience of the hike.
Use a proper backpack. Most camera packs are designed only to haul camera gear; few have space or compartments for food, water, and clothes. Because of this, we use a hiker’s daypack, which has plenty of room for everything including our tripod. Our camera gear is most often carried in a small chest pouch which lets us have our cameras quickly accessible without having to take off the daypack. Many shooters hike with a shouldered tripod and camera – this is fine for short jaunts but for longer hikes or on steep sections, we want our camera and tripod inside our pack or in a chest pouch so our hands are free to scramble up the trail, or so we can use hiking poles.
Consider using hiking poles. Because we are always trying to cut down on weight when hiking, many people are surprised that we recommend hiking poles. But on long hikes where there are
Don’t be like Darwin and hike in jeans and have too much camera gear!
step sections (and there are lots in Yoho), nothing will save your knees and help you hike more safely (especially at stream crossings) than a pair of strong but lightweight hiking poles. If you plan to
do lots of hiking be sure to purchase poles with shock absorbing tips as this feature is definitely worth the extra expense. When shooting or walking on flat stretches we just strap the poles to the side of our packs.
Plan for rain and wind, especially when hiking in Yoho! Even if the day dawns gloriously sunny, there is a good chance that by afternoon it will be raining. And if it doesn’t rain once you reach the alpine, it is often cool and windy up there. We can’t tell you how many times we’ve seen
hikers in shorts and t-shirts shivering away on a high mountain ridge. It is hard to be creative and make fine images if you are freezing.
Wear appropriate clothing. Cotton and denim are killers. If it is cold and you get wet, you can quickly develop dangerous hypothermia. Wool, fleece, or modern polypropylene fabrics are the best bets in the mountains because these fabrics wick moisture away from your body, they insulate while wet, and best of all they dry quickly. When we hike we always wear a polypro shirt and pants
and have a lightweight fleece, extra shirt, and waterproof jacket in our packs. Proper hiking boots are also important. Do not hike in running shoes or street shoes. You need boots with proper ankle support and rugged soles. And don’t forget a hat, sunglasses and sunscreen.
Pack for an emergency. We always have a small stuff bag in our pack that contains emergency gear. A whistle, small mirror, space blanket, waterproof matches, compass/GPS, penlight, and basic first aid kit should be in everyone’s daypacks. We also highly recommend an emergency GPS beacon and that you tell someone about your hiking plans before you leave. Should you trip and fall, get lost, or injured on the trail you’ll need a few supplies to help you make it through the night or until help comes.
Bring snacks and water. Even if you only plan to be gone a couple of hours, a few snacks and some water for the trail will be welcome. It doesn’t take long to work up a huge appetite while hiking, especially in the mountains. The greatest joy in hiking for us is the reward of food at the top. Nothing beats sitting in the sun on a mountain pass, feasting on well-deserved goodies. What could be more important than food?
Be bear aware. Chances are good you’ll never even see a bear while hiking. You are more likely to have an accident driving to the trailhead than
Hiking poles will keep you smiling and happy with the extra energy
they give you!
you are being attacked by a bear once on the trail. But, in our years of hiking we have had enough close encounters that we are extremely vigilant about bears and lately cougars as well. People have been killed in these parks by both animals, so a dangerous encounter is not out of the realm of possibilities. Your best bet is to never hike alone. Both animals generally avoid groups of two or more humans, so this is your best line of defense. In enclosed bush make plenty of noise to announce your presence. Keep children and pets between adults on the trail and have your pets leashed. Always stay away from any animal remains you encounter on the trail. An aggressive grizzly defending its kill is not a scenario you want to experience! We also always carry bear spray, which has proven effective in the unlikely event of an attack—carry it on your hip so it is readily accessible, not in your pack! Should you see a bear, do not threaten it, yell at it, or run from it. Just calmly announce your presence in a conversational and friendly voice and slowly back away. This strategy has worked for us. With cougars, things are different; if one attacks - an extremely rare event - you must fight it off because it considers you dinner. We carry both bear spray and a knife handy on our hip belts, just in case. Don’t let the very remote possibility of a deadly encounter sway you from hiking in the Rockies. With a little common sense and vigilance, you’ll have no worries. Happy shooting (pictures that is, not bear spray!)
Samantha on a photo backpacking trip. Her tripod is on the right side of the pack, the camera gear is in the chest pouch and her bear spray is hanging off the hip belt on the left.
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Our favorite hike in the Yoho Valley is the Iceline hike which undulates over a glacial moraine, delivers aerial views of Takakkaw Falls, takes you
to high alpine lakes and leaves you speechless with a rush of spectacular scenery. This hike is great any time of day but make sure to leave plenty of time to complete the hike to the Iceline highpoint and return (12.8 km total) or to do
the entire Iceline/Yoho Valley loop (21.1 km total). We recommend doing this hike with the promise of good weather; the Iceline Trail is exposed with little cover. Being on the shoulder of the President Range in nasty weather is not a fun experience!
To access the Iceline Trail, park at the Takakkaw Falls parking lot at the end of the road and follow the main trail to Takakkaw Falls but, instead of turning left to cross the footbridge to the falls, keep going straight and follow this trail back to the Whiskey Jack Hostel where the Iceline Trail begins its ascent through a zig-jag of switchbacks up a steeply forested slope. You’ll come to three trail junctions over the next 2 kilometres but just bare right at all junctions to stay on the Iceline Trail. Soon you’ll be in nosebleed country below the
The Iceline Trail
Emerald Icefield and looking down across the Yoho Valley to the Daly Galcier above Takakkaw Falls.
Continue on the Iceline Trail making images until you get to a couple of small alpine lakes and the Celeste Lake Connector Trail. Many people linger here and then return the way they came to complete a 12.8 kilometre hike. Often this hike—snapping photos along the way—takes about 5 to 6 hours so make sure you have plenty of snacks!If you started early in the day, and have plenty of snacks and a good level of fitness, you can complete the Iceline Trail to the Little Yoho Valley
The Most Scenic Day Hike in the
Yoho Valley!
Views along the Iceline Trail and the President Range (Canon EOS-1n, Canon 20mm lens, f16, Singh-Ray LB
Warming Polarizer, Fujichrome Velvia 50 slide film).
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Trail where you will descend down the Little Yoho River to the Yoho River and be greeted by Laughing Falls. As you continue down the Yoho River you’ll pass by Duchesnay Lake and Point Lace Falls. All along the way there are wonderful opportunities for photography, and we find this trip takes us a good 12 hours to complete because of all our stops for making images!
The Emerald Lake RoadThe Emerald Lake Road is 1.6 kilometres west of Field (GPS 51 23' 07.2"N 116 30' 12.7"W). This 9.0 kilometre road offers several stunning stops for roadside photography including the Natural Bridge over the Kicking Horse River, an easy 2.3 kilometre hike along an old road to a stunning picnic area amid the confluences of the Emerald, Amiskwi, and Kicking Horse Rivers, and finally at the terminus of the road where striking, blue-green Emerald Lake laps the toes of the President’s Range. The Emerald Lake Road is a must-do drive anytime of the year.
The Natural BridgeWhere: The Natural Bridge is on the right hand side of the Emerald Lake Road at kilometre 2.4.
GPS 51 22' 55.1"N 116 31' 50.4"W
When: Sunrise, overcast light, and afternoon to sunset.
How: The eroded limestone funnel that makes up the Natural Bridge is most easily photographed under overcast skies, but if you visit here on sunny days mid-afternoon to early evening, the overhead sun will evenly light the canyon too. For the
Cairn along the Iceline Trail (Canon EOS-1n, Canon 20mm lens, 1/30s at f16,
Fujichrome Velvia 50 slide film)
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technically adept, photography at sunrise or sunset can be a worthwhile challenge as underlit clouds or alpenglow on the distant peaks adds drama to imagery. You may need to use grad filters or digital merging of highlight and shadow exposures to make these sunrise/sunset photos recordable by your camera.
Do note that the Natural Bridge is a popular spot especially for tourist buses so, unless you arrive early or late in the day, you will be sharing the area with plenty of other folks, most of who seem to converse in 100-decibel voices. The footbridge provides one of the best viewpoints for
photography, but vibrations from visitors walking on the bridge will make sharp photos (even with a tripod) impossible. Shoot between the waves of tourists trampling across the bridge.
If you want a little solitude, just cross the footbridge and head downstream a few hundred metres to a lovely spot we call the ‘rock garden’. Here a jumble of rocks, eroded channels, and chiseled pools make abstract photography easy. This spot is best visited when water levels are low (May, September and October) and more of these interesting features are exposed. In June through August the water levels of the Kicking Horse River may actually be too high for a safe visit along the shoreline of the river. Remember
View of the Kicking Horse River from the footbridge at the Natural Bridge. (Canon G11, 1.13s at f6.3)
The Kicking Horse River just above the Natural Bridge at sunset. (Nikon D300s, Nikon 17-55mm lens at 20mm, 6s at f14, Singh-Ray 5-stop ND filter)
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that anywhere the rocks are wet along the shoreline is a danger zone. The glacial silt in the water coats the rocks to a slippery slime that can easily turn solid footing to a plunge of death into the roiling river. Do not stray too close to the river’s edge, including the seemingly dry rocky shoreline as a rogue rapid can whisk you way in a flash.
We like standing back from the shoreline with a moderate telephoto lens and a solid ND filter to slow the shutter speed of our camera and rendering a smooth, soft effect on the flowing water. If you want to portray the rushing water as it looks to your eye, then a shutter speed of 1/60s to 1/125s will give realistic looking results.
Details of the ‘rock garden’ below the Natural Bridge in May (Canon EOS-1ds, Canon 20mm lens, 1/6s at f22, Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer)
The Natural Bridge with Mount Stephen (Mamiya 645 Pro TL, 45mm lens, f16, Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer, Singh-Ray 3-stop hard-edge grad filter, Fujichrome Velvia 50 slide film)
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Amiskwi River Picnic AreaWhere: At the Natural Bridge Parking area you’ll see an old road with a barricade beginning at the west end of the parking lot. This is the road you will hike down to get to the meeting of three rivers: the Emerald, Kicking Horse and Amiskwi rivers. At the end of the road is an old picnic area that still has an outhouse and a few picnic tables.
GPS 51 22' 57.2"N 116 31' 52.9"W
When: Anytime.
How: Until recently this road used to be open to vehicle traffic but now it is only available to hikers and mountain bikers—and that is a good thing! We find that even on the busiest day few people wander down this road so if it’s isolation from the summer crowds you want then this might be the spot for you. The scenery down this road is worth the 1.6-kilometre hike to the picnic area. Below are a few highlights of the hike.
Kicking Horse River Canyon View
GPS 51 22' 51.4"N 116 32' 00.1"W
Just a short distance down the road (175 metres) on the left side is an overlook down the Kicking Horse River. We like using a wide angle lens here to get the whole canyon in. We prefer shooting this spot (or any canyon for that matter) in overcast light to get detail throughout the scene. The little overlook here is particularly dangerous so make sure you have good footing and are extremely careful. We recommend not trying to photograph here if the ground is wet or if it is raining. As you can see from the photo, the drop-off is straight down!
We recommend not trying to photograph here if the ground is wet or if it is raining.
The Kicking Horse River Canyon (Canon EOS-1ds Mark III, Canon TS-E 17mm lens, 1/15s f11)
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Pick-Up-Stix Forest
GPS 51 23' 01.6"N 116 32' 12.5"W
About 600 metres down the Amiskwi Picnic Area Road is a section of forest we have dubbed the Pick-Up-Stix Forest. All the deadfall here reminds us of the old childhood game of pick-up-sticks. We like this section of forest on overcast days where we try to make ‘order out of chaos’ compositions. It’s a tough thing to do but when successful the photos are rewarding. Remember to use a polarizer especially if the vegetation is wet to remove reflective glare and increase colour saturation.
Mineral Lick
GPS 51 23' 02.5"N 116 32' 17.2"W
From 650 metres to about 850 metres along the road on the left side is a wet, sedge-filled meadow that is a natural mineral lick. Watch for moose, deer or elk along this section of road. Pick-Up-Stix Forest
(Nikon D300s, Nikon 17-55mm lens at 30mm, Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer)
Bull moose at mineral lick (Canon EOS-1ds, Canon 300mm lens
0.3s at f4)
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The Emerald River Bridge
GPS 51 22' 56.4"N 116 32' 42.4"W
At kilometre 1.3 you’ll come to the Emerald River Bridge which gives a nice view up the river into the forest (good for overcast light). Be sure to use your polarizer to reduce reflective glare off of rocks and leaves so that you get more saturated looking images. We also like to use the Singh-Ray Gold-N-Blue Polarizer to add a splash of blue or gold to the reflective highlights in the scene.
Ottertail Range & Mount Stephen View
GPS 51 22' 54.3"N 116
32' 48.3"W
At kilometre 1.4 there is a spot along the Kicking Horse River that is as good at sunrise as it is at sunset, with views looking upstream to Mt. Stephen and Mt. Dennis and downstream to the
The Emerald River from the Emerald River Bridge (Canon EOS-1ds Mark III, Canon TS-E 45mm lens, 13s at f11,
Singh-Ray Gold-N-Blue Polarizer and Lee 4-stop ND filter)
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Ottertail Range. Lenses in the normal to medium telephoto range are good here to pull in these distant peaks over the river. When the river is in shade and the peaks are lit by the sun, you may need to use grad filters or exposure blending to get the full range of contrast in the final image.
The Amiskwi River Bridge
GPS 51 22' 53.6"N 116 32' 49.5"W
The bridge across the Amiskwi River (kilometre 1.5) gives views looking northwest to Tocher Ridge. This spot is good at sunrise or sunset. In summer the river lines up perfectly with sunset and will be dramatic especially if there are a few clouds to under light with a warm glow at the end of the day. The picnic area is across the bridge another 100 metres.
Mount Stephen and the Kicking Horse River (Mamiya 645 Pro TL, Mamiya 80mm lens, f22, Singh-Ray 2-stop
hard-edge grad filter, Fujichrome Velvia 50 slide film)
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Emerald LakeWhere: The Emerald Lake Road ends at a parking lot on the southwest shore of Emerald Lake at kilometre 9.0.
GPS 51 26' 21.6"N 116 32' 29.0"W
When: Sunrise to mid-morning and late afternoon to sunset, any month.
How: The main attraction on the Emerald Lake Road is of course the lake. This lovely spot reminds us of what Lake Louise used to be like before the huge crowds. The southwest end of the lake is best in evening light as the low angle of the sun lights triangular-shaped Mt. Burgess, and rectangular-shaped Wapta Mountain.
One of our favorite spots at Emerald Lake is the alluvial fan at the north end of the lake (a two-kilometre hike from the parking lot). Here braided streams, stunted snags, pockets of flowers, and numerous reflecting pools bring to life a myriad of foreground possibilities. If you get here for sunrise, the reward will often be alpenglow on Emerald and Michael Peak. Even by mid-morning the light at the north end of the lake is often sublime.
Emerald Lake looking towards Mount Burgess at sunset (Canon EOS-1ds Mark II, Canon 24mm TS-E lens, 0.8s
at f16, Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer)
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We love the hike along the lake especially the path along the west side of the lake from the parking lot to the Emerald Basin trail. All along this path are wonderful views of the forest and lake edge that can entertain photographers for hours especially on overcast days when you can get rich detail in forest and macro scenes. If you are looking for a magical day hike continue up into the Emerald Lake basin for wonderful alpine flowers and views Emerald and Michael Peaks.
While you’re at Emerald Lake be sure to visit Hamilton Falls, a 0.7-kilometre hike from the south end of the Emerald Lake parking lot. This long, thin waterfall is best shot in overcast light. If you are more ambitious and want an all day, eye-popping, thigh-pumping trek, be sure to do the 20.0 kilometre Emerald Triangle (Yoho Pass, Burgess Highline, and Burgess Pass trails). You must be in decent shape to do this trek but it is worth it!
Emerald Lake, Mount Burgess and the Emerald Lake Lodge (Canon EOS-1ds, Canon 20mm lens, 0.4s at f16, Singh-Ray LB
Warming Polarizer, Singh-Ray 3-stop soft-edge grad filter)
Fireweed slope along the Emerald Lake Trail (Nikon D300s, Nikon 17-55mm lens at 20mm, 0.4s at f16,
Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer)
The Emerald Lake Trail in fall (Nikon D300s, Nikon 17-55mm lens at 22mm, 0.3s at f14,
Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer)
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Faeder Lake Picnic AreaWhere: Faeder Lake Picnic area is located off the Trans Canada Highway 21.2 kilometres west of Field.
GPS 51 14' 20.5"N 116 34' 50.3"W
When: Best in afternoon to sunset.
How: This little sinkhole lake by the highway provides nice views to west facing Mount Vaux and Chancellor Peak that look best in late afternoon or sunset light. Your challenge here is to make photos of the lakes and mountains without views of the highway. One way to do this is to just concentrate on abstract reflections in the lake and forget the bigger scene. If you want larger views without the road another option is to follow the trails from the lake to the banks of the Kicking Horse River for views looking west.
Faeder Lake and Chancellor Peak (Canon EOS-1ds Mark III, Canon 24mm TS-E lens,
1/40s at f8, Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer).
Abstract reflection photo of Faeder Lake and Mount Vaux
(Canon EOS-1ds Mark III, Sigma 120-400mm lens)
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Leanchoil Hoodoos & DeerlodgeWhere: Located 22.6 Kilometres west of Field on the Trans Canada Highway. The trailhead for both the hoodoos and Deerlodge begins from the Hoodoo Creek Campground.
GPS 51 13' 34.6"N 116 34' 28.3"W
When: Late afternoon to sunset.
How: Like most everything in Yoho, the best stuff is on the hiking trail; these two spots are no exception. The trailheads are located within the Hoodoo Creek Campground (open late June to September). Much of the campground has been decommissioned and so the trailheads are a bit harder to find than when the campground was open.
To get to the Hoodoo Trail you’ll find a gate blocking off an old campground loop road. Park here (GPS 51 13' 21.3"N 116 34' 13.7"W) and follow the campground road for about one kilometre until you see the sign for the Hoodoo Trail on the left side of the road. The hoodoos are another 3 kilometres up a steep grunt of a hike. This used to be a popular trail when the campground was bigger but it is nearly abandoned and you’ll likely have the trail to yourself.
The Hoodoos (Canon EOS-1ds Mark III, Canon TS-E 24mm lens, 1/25s
at f11, Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer)
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The trail goes through a lovely forest burn which gives you the perfect excuse to catch your breath and take some photos.
The Leanchoil Hoodoos look like giant gravel sentinels with limestone helmets, or maybe long-necked reptilian-skinned aliens with tiny heads. Wherever your imagination takes you, these fascinating forms make for interesting photography.
Near the hoodoos, the trail splits in two with the lower trail taking you to views below the hoodoos and the upper trail taking in views at eye level and above the hoodoos. We prefer the upper trail, but if you have the energy we’d suggest trying both trails for more variety of angles on these amazing landforms. The hoodoos are best photographed in late afternoon to sunset. Take plenty of water on this hike because it is often dry and hot!
Deerlodge is a historic site; it is the first warden cabin in the park (1904) and is located beside a large marshy area which opens up to 360 degrees views of the surrounding peaks. For quick access to the lodge just park at the end of the Hoodoo
Forest burn along the Hoodoo Trail (Canon EOS-1ds Mark III, Canon TS-E 24mm lens, 1/15s
at f11, Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer)
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Creek Campground Road (1.0 kilometre off the highway - GPS 51 13' 12.2"N 116 33' 57.1"W) and you’ll see the old cabin. Pick your way through the meadow and fallen trees to the old cabin. Sometimes the cabin is open and you can get interior shots (please don’t move any of the artifacts). Beyond the cabin the marsh provides great opportunities for reflection shots of Mt. Vaux and Chancellor Peak, and we have had good luck photographing waterfowl here. Waterproof footwear will ensure dry feet as you explore for foregrounds or birds along the soggy shore.
Deerlodge (Canon EOS-1ds Mark III, Canon TS-E 24mm lens,
1/15s at f11, Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer)
Interior of Deerlodge (Canon EOS-1ds Mark III, Canon TS-E 24mm lens, 1.6s at
f8, Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer)
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Wapta Falls RoadWhere: 24.5 kilometres west of Field is the Wapta Falls Road. About 500 metres along this road on the left side is Wapta Marsh (watch for a dip in the road and park on the left), and at kilometre 1.8 (road’s end) is the trailhead for Wapta Falls (a 2.4 kilometre hike).
GPS 51 13' 04.0"N 116 35' 33.1"W
(beginning of the Wapta Falls Road)
GPS 51 12' 47.7"N 116 35' 36.6"W
(Wapta Marsh)
GPS 51 12' 14.3"N 116 35' 06.0"W
(Wapta Falls Trailhead)
When: Both the falls and the marsh are best photographed from late afternoon to sunset (high water levels in June and July).
How: A polarizer is a must for both spots as the setting sun sidelights Mt. Vaux and Chancellor Peak. For Wapta Marsh waterproof footwear is handy unless you enjoy soggy feet. Watch for open pools of water to make reflection photos of the grand scene. We also like to include the dead snags at the edge of the marsh for context.
Wapta Falls in May (Canon EOS-1ds, Canon 24-70mm lens at 37mm, 1s at f20, Singh-Ray LB
Warming Polarizer, Singh-Ray 2-stop hard-edge grad filter).
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For Wapta Falls bring plenty of lens tissue as the amount of spray lofting off the falls is tremendous. As well, if you plan to shoot at sunset, remember the hike back to the parking lot takes about 30 to 45 minutes through fading twilight, so a flashlight and bear spray is wise insurance. In May and September, water levels are low enough that you can wander over to the treed island for head-on views of the falls. In summer there will be less variety of shoreline to explore because the riverbed is full of water, but the falls will be bigger, louder, and more impressive.
Wapta Falls in July (Mamiya 645 Pro TL, Mamiya 45mm lens, f22, Singh-Ray LB Warming
Polarizer, Singh-Ray 2-stop hard-edge grad filter).
The dead snags at Wapta Marsh (Canon EOS-1ds Mark III, Canon TS-E 24mm lens, 1.6s at f11,
Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer)
Wapta Marsh (Canon EOS-1ds Mark III, Canon TS-E 17mm lens, 0.5s at f11)
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Lake O’HaraWhere: Eleven kilometres west of Lake Louise or 15 kilometres east of Field is the Lake O’Hara parking lot where a shuttle bus runs from mid-June to October to take hikers into the Lake O’Hara area.
GPS 51 13' 04.0"N 116 35' 33.1"W
(get proper GPS reading!)
When: Anytime of the day in June through September with prime time being late July and early August for alpine flowers, and mid-September for the forests of subalpine larch trees in their autumn finery. Do note that snow levels might still be high in the alpine routes until mid-July.
How: In this guidebook, we have generally restricted coverage to areas accessible by road or by day hikes. The Lake O’Hara area, although road accessible via a shuttle bus, is really considered a backcountry destination. Getting to Lake O’Hara is a big deal and requires detailed planning (see side-bar), but once there the scenery is absolutely the best that the Canadian Rockies has to offer.
This area is not for the faint of heart. Not only will the scenery set your heart a-pounding, the trails
Lake O’ Hara Boat Dock (Canon EOS-1ds Mark III, Canon
TS-E 17mm lens, 3.2s at f16)
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will too! Almost every trail with the exception of the Lake O’Hara Circuit is a knee busting, lung bursting, heart-banging affair that takes you to dizzying scenery amongst alpine meadows, sparkling lakes, and towering peaks.
If you go, plan at least three full days (stay in the Lake O’Hara campground or at the Lake-O’Hara Lodge – 250-343-6418) and make sure you do at least these three hikes: Opabin Plateau to Opabin Lake, the Lake MacArthur Trail, and the Lake Oesa Trail. If you can only manage a single day hike, we would opt for the Opabin Plateau.
Lake O’Hara itself is best in afternoon or sunset light; the other trails are good all day long. Indeed, it would be easy to do a whole eBook on specific times and places for photography on the trails in this area. But once you are there, photo opportunities just jump out all over the place, so just follow your instincts. This is truly one of those ‘f8 and be there’ locations.
The best tip we can give you is to reduce your photography gear to the bare essentials. Packing around a heavy camera pack will soon sap you of creative energy. We usually opt for a camera, lightweight tripod, and a single wide-angle zoom (e.g. 24-105mm equivalent) for hiking excursions in the Lake O’Hara area. You’ll also want to be able (Nikon D200, Sigma 10-20mm lens at 20mm, 0.3s at f14,
Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer)
to carry your tripod in your pack so you have free hands to scramble over the trails especially if you attempt the Huber Ledges, All Soul’s Prospect, or Yukness Ledge Alpine routes (all three highly recommended!)
We also recommend extra batteries and lots digital media. It is easy to burn through the imagery here. Dead cameras and full media cards are a common ailment attacking photographers to the area! We have seen a media card bartered for a full meal of pasta, a bottle of wine, and the promise of doing camp dishes for the remainder of the trip! You can’t imagine what fresh batteries will cost you!
Photo Tip Getting to Lake O’HaraAccess to Lake O’Hara is well controlled in order to protect the fragile alpine area from overuse. The road to Lake O’Hara is a restricted access road open only to the shuttle buses and hikers in summer and cross-country skiers in winter. So you either have to walk, or ski there (11 kilometres on the road) or make arrangements to catch the bus.
To catch the bus please note:
The bus usually only runs from mid-June to early October and has two morning departure times (8:30am and 10:30am) and two evening return times (4:30pm and 6:30pm). These times may vary from year to year so be sure to check on the Yoho Park website (www.pc.gc.ca/pn-np/bc/yoho) or check for current information at the Field Visitor Centre. Also note that you are restricted to
Cascade Lakes, Opabin Plateau
(Canon EOS-1ds Mark III, Canon 45mm
TS-E lens, 1/15s at f13,
Singh-Ray LB Warming
Polarizer)
Mary Lake and Lake O’Hara from the West Opabin Trail
(Canon EOS-1ds Mark II, Canon 17-40mm lens at 28mm, 0.5s at f13, Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer)
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two bags or packs per person as ‘luggage’ on the bus (25 kilograms
Reservations are recommended and can be made three months in advance by phoning 250-343-6433. Be prepared to redial that number often before getting through! The reservation desk opens at 8:00am MST.
Six bus seats and three to five campsites are set aside for people without advance reservations. Phone the reservation number above the day before you plan to visit if you want to try and get one of these spots (good luck!)
You can show up at the Lake O’Hara parking lot before the bus leaves to see if there are any last minute cancellations.
Lake O’Hara & Mount Huber (Nikon D200,
Sigma 10-20mm lens,
1/25s at f14, Singh-Ray
LB Warming Polarizer)
Lake O’Hara Lodge cabin (Nikon D200, Nikon17-55mm lens at 55mm, 39s at f11)
Failing all that, your last option is to carb up and make the long slow slog up the road because there are no restrictions on how many people can hike into Lake O’Hara.
Lake Oesa (Canon EOS-1ds Mark III, Canon 17mm TS-E, 1/4s at f11)
Reflecting pool along the Opabin Prospect Trail (Mamiya 645 Pro TL, Mamiya 35mm lens, Singh-Ray LB
Warming Polarizer, Fujichrome Velvia 50 slide film)
Emerald Lake canoe dock (Nikon D200, Sigma10-20mm lens at 12mm, 10s at f22, Singh-Ray Gold-N-Blue Polarizer)
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ConclusionYoho National Park is small but concentrated. With a little planning, no matter what the light, Yoho will give you rewards. There is wonderful roadside photography here but to really get the best the park has to offer, get onto the trails and start exploring. Have a great trip and happy shooting!
About UsThe two of us (Samantha Chrysanthou and Darwin Wiggett) are photographers who love to share and teach and do so though our website
www.oopoomoo.com
What is oopoomoo? Well, the name actually doesn’t mean a thing. Darwin made it up; one day while lounging on the couch (there was probably wine involved). We just like the name and it stuck; it makes us laugh.
But the concept behind oopoomoo relates more to our attitude towards life. Life is short: why not just do the things you love and live a balanced healthy lifestyle? Why not give back a little instead of always taking? Why not live a little softer on the planet? Why not have fun and smile a lot? Well, oopoomoo is our attempt to live that kind of life. We are photographers and photography instructors and we love our work. But we also love nature, hiking, eating, drinking, art, music and, in short, life. We want oopoomoo to reflect our passion about these things, and we want to share our passion for living well with the world. We hope you’ll join us over at oopoomoo for the fun.
Darwin on Vision Quest overlooking Abraham Lake in the Bighorn Wildlands
