WW 021512 S001 0TLL0 · Architect Bjarke Ingels, found-er of Bjarke Ingels Group (BIG), has really made Times Square the heart of New York City by installing a 10-foot-high heart

WWDCoterie

Manhattan MedleyFine-tuning at the Show

Visiting TMRW Land

Bundle Up!No such thing as too many layers when it comes to dressing fashionably for the cold. The fall collections showing at the

Fashion Coterie, Feb. 21 to 23 at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center, offer plenty of options to heat up the season.

Strenesse Blue’s cotton and polyester blend coat with fox fur collar; Tibi’s cotton shirtdress and wool blend sweater, and Paul & Joe Sister leather skirt. Roman Luxe necklace; Diesel handbag; CC Skye bracelet.

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Bloomingdale’s Soho SHOP-in-SHOP February 2012

Visit us at Coterie Booth #3601

SECTION II: WWD.COMCoterie

4 WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 15, 2012

ARTISIC ENDEAVORSEnticing as the major art shows can be, often the time it takes to buy the ticket, check the coat and navigate the crowd can eat up an afternoon. Time, like money, is a commodity, so some may want to opt for more man-ageable exhibitions.

With less than an hour to spare, hit the International Center of Photography at 1133 Sixth Avenue at West 43rd Street to check out “Magnum Contact Sheets” for a behind-the-scenes look at how those history-capturing photogra-phers got their best shots from the Thirties to the present. Then buzz through “Perspectives” to get a glimpse of up-and-coming young artists working in video and photography.

For those in need of a big name that will register with friends, The Frick Collection at 1 East 70th Street has “Renoir, Impressionism and Full-Length Painting.” Henry Clay Frick’s former mansion is elegant, easy to navigate, and there is a pay-as-you-wish policy for part of the day on Sundays. This Sunday, a Beethoven concert will be held in the music room, but tickets are required.

Friday nights at the Museum of Modern Art, 11 West 53rd Street, also doesn’t require opening the wallet. Forgo the Diego Rivera show for the sake of time and catch photographer Eugène Atget’s “Documents Pour Artistes,” material he hoped would one day help others. James Rosenquist’s 84-foot-long “F-111” is worth a look, and, as of Sunday, “Print/Out,” featuring the work of Martin Kippenberger, Lucy McKenzie, Thomas Schütte, Superflex and others, will be an-other quick-fix show.

Fashion-minded art fans can run through “Impact: 50 Years of the CFDA” at the Museum at FIT, 227 West 27th Street, or

head downtown to find Juergen Teller’s shots of Vivienne Westwood, Kristen McMenamy and others in his solo show at Lehmann Maupin’s gallery at 201 Chrystie Street. Heading that way on the Bowery, the Sperone Westwater gallery is worth a drive-by for the Norman Foster-designed elevator that doubles as a gallery, as well as the art.

SINCE THEY BUILT IT…Architect Bjarke Ingels, found-er of Bjarke Ingels Group (BIG), has really made Times Square the heart of New York City by installing a 10-foot-high heart sculpture with 400 pulsating LED lights. The acrylic tubes refract the lights of Times Square and sway in the wind. When passers-by touch a heart-shaped sensor, the heart will appear to beat faster as the heat from their hands is generated into more light. “BIG — we need a heart icon here — NYC” will be on display through Feb. 29.

Other big-name architec-tural finds can also be seen throughout the city. Thomas Mayne’s 42 Cooper Square and Herzog & de Meuron’s 40 Bond Street are two must-sees, and The High Line is a favor-ite for works by Frank Gehry, Jean Nouvel and Shigeru Ban. Theater tickets are needed to see what Gehry has done with the newly reopened Signature Theater. Anyone who missed New York Fashion Week might check out Lincoln Center to see how Diller Scofidio + Renfro and Tod Williams and Billie Tsien have trans-formed the space. Instead of racing through Grand Central Terminal, catch up with the Municipal Arts Society for its weekly 90-minute Wednesday afternoon tour of the Beaux-Arts landmark.

FOOD FOR THOUGHTFarm-to-table restaurants and communal dining establish-ments should ease any guilt about eating out. RedFarm, a rustic but modern eatery at 529 Hudson Street in the West Village, serves up green mar-ket Chinese food and super-charged dim sum from Joe Ng in a rustic but modern space.

Happy hours can be had at Pane Panelle at 305 Church Street in TriBeCa. Formerly known as Stuzzicheria, the space is a southern Italian focacceria, trattoria and bar. Another Italian newcomer is Don Antonio by Starita at 309 West 50th Street, where co-founder Antonio Starita’s fam-

ily’s pizzeria in Naples dates back to 1901.

Meanwhile, The Meatball Shop has opened its third loca-tion, a West Village outpost at 64 Greenwich Avenue. Sharing is big at The Sushi Shop, whether dining at the new 536 Madison Avenue location or or-dering out. Uptown, ABV Wine Bar is welcoming diners and drinkers to its wine bar, food bar and three communal tables at 1504 Lexington Avenue.

PICK YOUR POISONThose looking to take the edge off after hectic day might try a “Brave Man” — green toma-tillo, pulque, mezcal and lime — at Pulqueria, a Mexican eatery at 11 Doyers Street. The “Rooster’s Eye” — fresh jicama, pulque, tequila, agave and lime — is another drink of choice. Another new haunt,

The Wren, on the Bowery also has such specialty cocktails as “The North Country,” made with Laird’s applejack, Vermont boiled cider and hard cider.

If sugar is the preferred indulgence, Cake Shop sells Robicelli’s brownies and whoop-ie pies said to have been created during the Great Depression. As of Monday, Mardi Gras cup-cakes, pecan praline and French king cake will be available for a limited time. Yet another

cupcake maker, Georgetown Cupcakes, has opened its first New York shop at 11 Mercer Street. Should making the trek to the freshly minted One Girl Cookies store in Brooklyn be a step too far, there is Puddin’, a St. Mark’s sweet shop where banana cream dream and but-terscotch are usually the first to go.

For those looking for some cultural, dining and nighttime pursuits surrounding their busy schedules, here’s a potpourri of ideas. By Rosemary Feitelberg

Manhattan Medley

The Municipal Arts Society leads afternoon tours of Grand Central Terminal every Wednesday.

Forget about the ailing economy with a “Brave Man” at Pulqueria.

Bjarke Ingel’s heart sculpture is in Times Square all month.

A Renoir show is on

at The Frick.

The Meatball Shop has a new West Village restaurant.

A Juergen Teller photo of Kristen McMenamy at Lehmann Maupin’s gallery.

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Wrap It UpScarf prints and patterns have long been a staple in fashion and, for fall, they’re showing up everywhere from dresses to bags.

Hobo clutch.

Rachel Leigh ring.

Yoana Baraschi silk blouse.

Orla Kiely scarf.

Erickson Beamon necklace.

Botkier handbag.

San & Soni’s silk crepe dress.

Jocelyn’s fur scarf; Karla Deras for

Roman Luxe necklace; Cynthia

Vincent bag.

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Winter whites have an edge by way of enamel jewelry and fuzzy furs.

Dallin Chase’s viscose chiffon and sequin dress.

Report shoe.

Paul & Joe Sister’s acetate blend skirt.

Joy Cioci’s cashmere coat with fox and

rabbit fur trim.

Hobo handbag.

A.B.S. by Allen Schwartz’s faux

fur vest.

Frost Finds

Clothing and accessories will be metal-heavy for fall.

Shine On

Ali Ro’s metallic python jacket with leather sleeves; Graham & Spencer’s silk shirtdress; White + Warren’s cashmere sweater, and Sanctuary jeans.

Ainsley’s viscose and polyester sweater.

Ben-Amun brooch.

Ben-Amun bangle.

Miss Trish bootie.

Erickson Beamon necklace.

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Uptown Girl

Roman Luxe’s necklace.

Delman’s pump.

Yoana Baraschi’s polyester and viscose skirt.

Erin by Erin Fetherston’s maribou jacket; Pink Tartan’s cotton and patent leather shirt, and Raoul’s wool tweed skirt. Diesel belt.

George Gina & Lucy’s handbag.

Ted Baker’s viscose nylon and wool blend sweater.

Jean Michel Cazabat’s shoe.

Nicole Miller Artelier’s leather dress (worn as top), with Payne’s cotton and spandex

pants. Diesel bag; Tibi shoes; Roman Luxe necklace; Carol Marie bracelet.

Report’s shoe

Ladylike dressing with stylish pencil skirts and timeless accessories exudes chic.

No SweatRachel Leigh’s necklace.

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Yoana Baraschi’s viscose, acetate and nylon dress.

Sporty items are energized with graphic details and a utilitarian vibe.

shop at desigual.com

Visit us at Coterie New York

WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 15


12

NEW YORK — While the global economic environment continues to be volatile and challenges in the Euro zone are causing some headaches, exhibitors said they are heading into next week’s Fashion Coterie with a positive outlook that there is still plenty of business to be had.

Designers said they just have to be more nimble and work that much harder to make it happen.

ENK founder and president Elyse Kroll said the level of activity at recent shows is an encouraging sign for the up-coming edition of Coterie, set for Feb. 21 to 23 at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center here.

Many exhibitors said they are looking to Coterie for growth this season and most agreed that keeping a strong price-value ratio will be a key ingredient to success.

Gerd Strehle, chief executive offi-cer of Strenesse, which is showing its Strenesse Blue label, is anticipating a rise in sales orders this season, even in these uncertain times.

“Let’s face it, the previous seasons have been challenging for the U.S. mar-ket,” Strehle said. “However, the most dynamic stores have been able to keep their stocks selective and have been able to remain profitable. More than ever, it is crucial to offer good products at a good price and with an interesting story to keep the customers inspired.”

At times when retailers limit their investments, “it is important to make it worth their while,” Strehle said.

“Selling to wholesalers is half of the job, but making sure the collection sells out is crucial for the business,” he added. “Businesses want to be assured they are getting a strong product that will satisfy their customers.”

Designer Rachel Roy stressed that

value is key, now more than ever.“Customers are looking for value

and we’ve really challenged ourselves to deliver…design and detail in open-ing price point merchandise,” she said. “For fall, we are launching a dedicated dress capsule collection [in the] price range [of] $348 to $468 that really speaks to our woman’s modern life — classic silhouettes paired with feminine details and color to create a strong and sexy collection.”

Rebecca Minkoff ceo Uri Minkoff said a key challenge is to stand out among a sea of vendors.

“I think price is also an issue in this competitive landscape,” he noted. “We fight these by making sure we always maintain unique and innovative market-ing and communications platforms with the end consumer so that we can drive behavior and experience. Social media has always been our hallmark. On the other hand, we make sure that we have a great price-value ratio for our customer.”

As for trends, designer Rebecca Minkoff pointed to more versatile looks, noting, “Convertible bags are a big trend right now, especially bags that have compartments for tech products.”

Several companies have also made changes to their deliveries to better serve retailers with new-ness. Starting with this fall, White + Warren will be offering month-by-month capsule collections.

“Each capsule collection features more novelty in comparison to prior seasons, and has its own focus and color palette,” said Susan White, White + Warren president. “In ad-dition, we have increased the pre-sentation of offerings in the White + Warren cashmere essentials.”

Having the proper financial plan is also crucial, she noted.

“Many of the specialty stores are placing a larger portion of their buy with us, which can result in cash flow issues,” White said. “We have had to find more creative ways of fund-ing the business within this channel. Transparency is key. In order for the factor to be confident in granting credit, the retailers must have up-to-date finan-cials and be willing to share this informa-tion. We are working with each retailer to create a better flow of receipts for each category each month.”

She added, “An open start date will give small boutiques a longer selling period, which enables a better sell-through on our product.”

Slipper company Jacques Levine is showing at Coterie for the first time. President Sam Calvanio said, “Our ex-isting buyers are increasingly relying on this show for its mix of brands, and while we have a targeted approach for growing our distribution, this show still ensures that we meet with the right buyers.”

For fall, the company is expanding its offering to include drivers, skim-mers, flats and loafers.

“The biggest challenge facing our business right now is price sensitivity for slippers,” Calvanio said. “While we are at the high end of the slipper mar-ket, the construction and materials that we use are in line with shoes that sell for a much higher price. It’s a con-stant challenge to balance the quality that we want for our line with the con-sumer’s notion of how much they want to spend on a slipper. We are working to evolve that perception.”

Kroll is pleased with business. “While we approached Accessorie Circuit, Intermezzo and ENKNY with cautionary respect due to the tumultu-ous economy in Europe, we were sur-prised and happy with the results in terms of traffic and sales for our exhib-itors,” said Kroll, referring to recent trade shows under her auspices. “The right stores traveled to New York and good business was written. We have every reason to believe that Coterie will also be a strong, energetic show.”

Kroll cited several new introduc-tions this season as contributors to the ongoing energy surrounding the show. Coterie, for instance, is growing its TMRW section, which helps young and

emerging designers by subsidizing their exhibit space and showing them the ropes. For the first time, ENK will fea-ture TMRW Men’s, which is to take place at The Tunnel venue and showcase sev-eral up-and-coming men’s wear design-er labels, including Resurrection and Neuw. Kroll decided to include men’s collections because “Coterie attracts a lot of specialty stores and it could be the same store owner or buyer.”

ENK is also launching the White New York exhibit, importing the Milan men’s and women’s fashion ex-hibition. It will also make its debut at The Tunnel, with more than 60 Italian brands, including Ter et Bantine, Roberto Del Carlo, Norwegian Rain, London.Ink and Alessandra Marchi.

As Show Grows, Vendors Fine-TuneExpanded venues and offerings are on tap for the trade fair. By Marc Karimzadeh

Rachel Roy’s wool tweed and leather jacket and dress.

A Strenesse Blue Bag.

SECTION II: Coterie


Collections of ‘TMRW’From accessories to classic ready-to-wear and

casual sportswear, these four lines are looking to break out.

DAVID GALANWhen David Galan, who will be among those participating in Coterie’s TMRW section featuring young and emerging de-signers, was handling New York accounts for Gucci during the Tom Ford era, he got some invaluable lessons in design.

“I looked at the quality and I formed an idea of what women like in reference to luxury,” said the 34-year-old Galan, who was inspired to try his hand at design.

He moved back to his hometown of Los Angeles in 2004 and started design-

ing belts and accessories for stores such as Fred Segal, Ron Herman, Big Drop and Scoop. He has since expanded his business into handbags and jewelry.

“My customer is a little edgy, but chic,” Galan said. “She loves luxury, but wants something different than what everyone else has. She’s someone who embraces individuality.”

For his handbags, Galan likes to work with exotic skins, such as pony, anacon-da python and crocodile.

“For fall, I’m focusing on croc and snakeskin,” said Galan, who produces his line entirely in Los Angeles.

His handbags wholesale from $129 to $299. Some of his bags are structured, while others are contoured to the body. For fall, he will also include a group that is hand woven.

“Everything’s black, although we do offer some black on white, with black crocodile inlay — it’s a spectator bag,” he said.

Galan’s handbags are sold at Fred Segal, Ron Herman and Nordstrom, as well as some Japanese accounts. Although he has some celebrity ac-counts, he said what’s important to him is his relationship with his buyers and

the stores. He is inspired by art, architecture and nature, especially the greenery, beaches, running and hiking in California.

“I pull a lot from nature,” he added. “Here in Los Angeles, so much Art Deco is still alive, and Forties buildings.”

Galan also designs jewel-ry, wholesaling from $79 to $199, using chains, crys-tals and mixed media.

— LISA LOCKWOOD

GABRIELA MOYAReady-to-wear designer Gabriela Moya likes to work with a different art-ist each season. For her third collection for fall, she has collaborated with Korean sculptor Hyungsub Shin, who has incorporated his pieces into accessories for her designs.

“We started talking and it sort of hap-pened organically,” said Moya. “He makes sculptures out of wires.”

The detachable accessories, which in-clude broaches and necklaces, can be sold separately, or as part of the dress.

Moya likes to design simple, classic shapes and “it always has

a modern twist to it,” she said, incorporating lots of pleats, transparencies and peek-a-boos into her designs, while mixing textures.

Her collection is entitled “Rhizomes,” which are roots and stems that grow horizon-tally underground, creating

one large organic mass that then breaks off into pieces. For her collec-tion, she used a lot of gray and black, with dashes of cobalt blue and orange.

“They are made of twisted wires that are red, green, blue, yellow, silver, gold, black, gray…they give the clothes a vi-brant pop, but also an organic feel,” she added.

Moya noted that one of her favorite designs for fall is a knee-length pleated GA

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Jewelry from Alona.

A dress by Gabriela Moya.

A bag from David Galan.

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dress, with shaved lambskin straps and an inset of cobalt blue double organza, adding an element of transparency. She described her fall collection as a luxury contemporary line that can be worn to work and then worn out on the town. The line is currently sold at Modelista in New York, as well as to private cli-ents. Moya’s collection, which she pro-duces in New York, wholesales from $75 for a silk tank top to $300 for a wool jacket, and includes dresses, pants, leg-gings and coats.

Moya said she likes to design for a woman who’s fashion forward, but still classic and elegant “and cares about the way she dresses.” She also appeals to a working woman who’s active and into art.

“I studied art history and I love to merge these two worlds together,” said Moya. “My clothes have a very archi-tectural feel. They’re streamlined, with lots of cuts and are very linear.”

— L.L.

ALONALondon-based accessories designer Alona Shelemy is launching her Alona collection for fall.

After a few years of working for luxury brands such as Jimmy Choo and Linda Farrow, she decided to do some-thing more creative and enrolled in the Gemological Institute of America in

New York to study jewelry design. She then set out to create her signature ac-cessories. Wolf & Badger Dover Street was among the first to pick up the line, which is expected to be sold in 100 specialty stores within the next year. Earrings start at $49 wholesale and a statement necklace sells for about $157.

To try to get the word out about the brand, the designer hosts trunk shows, donates pieces to high-profile char-ity auctions and will collaborate with other designers. Shelemy said her fall collection is vintage-oriented, mixing vibrant crystals, hand-dyed silk and vel-vet, vintage coins and spiked charms. The pieces are inspired by her Middle Eastern heritage and an influence of bold British style.

“Alona fuses past decades and con-trasting elements, such as geometric shapes against vintage detail. Each piece evokes the feel of unearthed trea-sure with a story to tell,” she said, not-ing the collection is finished in a range of gold, rose gold and antique silver. “Being born and raised in London has allowed me to appreciate a mix of so-cieties and cultures. Having a mixed heritage myself, I am always interested when a fusion of different styles and themes come together to create some-thing of beauty. This is the core of my inspiration for every piece I design.”

— ROSEMARY FEITELBERG

JYUNEHaving parted ways with her business partner for 27-24 contemporary sports-wear, Jessie Yune is striking out on her own with a new label called Jyune.

This time around her offerings in-clude simple cashmere sweaters, silk

shirts and even a fox coat. For fall, the New York-based designer imagined mix-and-match Parisian street fashion that manages to encompass such ele-ments she said are “edgy and conserva-tive, masculine and feminine, luxury and vintage and soft and hard.” To that end, a luxury fur coat is paired with a flowy chiffon midlength skirt, a military jacket is shown with a knitted maxiskirt and a chunky cable-knit pullover is worn with satin trousers.

“My design atheistic involves mak-ing staple and versatile items…pieces that can be worn with an existing ward-robe such as a silk button-down shirt, a cable cardigan, a double-breasted blazer, simple cozy pullover and tu-nics,” Yune said.

She plans to parlay some of the retail relationships she made through 27-24 for her new venture. Yune said she will approach Kitson, Ron Herman, Knitwit, Style Etoile and Modelista among other specialty stores. Her aim is to focus on producing high-quality products with “reasonable” prices. Wholesale prices start at $85 and top off at $1,050.

The are a few surprises in the collec-tion, including versatile fur and cash-mere items like a detachable bolero sleeve that can also be worn as a fur scarf, and a detachable cashmere sleeve that can double as a neck warmer.

— R.F.

A look from Jyune.

WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 15, 2012 15

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Come see us at:

COTERIE BOOTH #3628 Vice President Merryl Centeno 1400 Broadway, 15th Floor New York, NY 10018 646-383-8241

President Liz Berlinger

Sue Goodman Showroom New Mart Building 127 E. 9th St. #1008 Los Angeles, CA 90015 213-629-2493

Come see us at:

COTERIE BOOTH #3628Vice President Merryl Centeno 1400 Broadway, 15th Floor New York, NY 10018 646-383-8241

President Liz Berlinger

Sue Goodman Showroom New Mart Building 127 E. 9th St. #1008 Los Angeles, CA 90015 213-629-2493