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The Samoggia Valley
The River Samoggia At 44 kilometres long, the Samoggia is the lon-gest tributary on the left of the Reno. Its sour-ce is near Zocca (Modena), but it enters almostat once into the Bolognese territory where itruns the rest of its course.In the hilly area, the valleys of the three majorrivers (Lavino, Samoggia and Ghiaia di Serra-valle) have interesting countryside, marked bythe jagged geometry of the gypsums. The areaalso produces the famous wine, the D.O.C.Pignoletto dei Colli Bolognesi, a sparklingwhite with a rare, particular bouquet.Passing Savigno, Monteveglio and Bazzano, atCalcara di Crespellano the Samoggia entersthe plains, where its course is contained byimposing banks. Along its course on the plains,it meets the two main transport arteries in thispart of the territory, the Via Emilia and Via Per-
sicetana, and then flows into the Reno nearSan Matteo della Decima. Historically, the basin of the Samoggia hasalways been considered a transition zone bet-ween the areas of Bologna and Modena, azone rich in over a thousand years of history. An imposing witness to the valley’s history isthe famous Abbey of Monteveglio, whosecastle, together with that of Serravalle, wascontrolled by Queen Matilde of Canossa. In1325, at Zappolino, on the River Ghiaia di Ser-ravalle, there was the famous battle betweenthe Bolognese and Modenese with the episo-de of “the stolen bucket”, still part of thelegendary rivalry between the two cities.
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River Samoggia
Photo by Comunità Montana Valle del Samoggia - Riccardo Solmi
Vineyards of the Samoggia Valley
Photo by Comunità Montana Valle del Samoggia
Riccardo Solmi
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Zola Predosa - Tourist OfficeVilla Garagnani - Via Masini, 1140069 - Zola Predosa (BO)Tel. 051.752472 - [email protected] - www.iatzola.it
Tourist Information
Tourist itineraryThe itinerary through the hilly stretch startsfrom the ancient Via Claudia, today theBazzanese highway (SS569), connectingBologna to Maranello, and then follows thetwo roads along the Samoggia and Lavinovalley-bottoms.
- Zola Predosa- Crespellano- Bazzano- Monteveglio- Castello di Serravalle- Savigno - Monte San Pietro
The noble villas between Zola and CrespellanoThe museum complex of Ca’ La GhirondaThe Rocca di BazzanoThe Abbey of Monteveglio and the Natural ParkThe medieval village of Castello di SerravalleThe Astronomical Observatory of Monte San Pietro The Nigelli private collection of motorbikes of Monte San PietroThe Golf Club in Crespellano and Monte San PietroThe DOC Wines dei Colli BolognesiThe white truffles of SavignoThe Wine and Flavours Route “Cities, Castles, and Cherries”
Not to be missed:
The Samoggia Valleythe Apennines
Zola Predosa
Bazzano
Monteveglio
Savigno
Monte
San Pietro
Castello
di Serravalle
Crespellano
History and Environment The Apennine part of the Samoggia Valleywinds through gentle hills to the west ofBologna, on the border with the territory ofModena. From the high plains around Crespel-lano, the valley rises to 817 metres a.s.l. atSavigno, crossed by the waters of the Samog-gia and Lavino, its major tributary. The Samog-gia valley will not disappoint any travellerinterested in discovering unusual historical orartistic itineraries, making it all the more inte-resting. An ancient borderland between Empi-re and Papacy, the valley is rich in castles andmedieval fortifications linked to the figure ofMatilde of Canossa, whose dominion markedthe history of the valley. Here you will find theRegional Park of the Abbey of Monteveglio, aprotected historical and environmental areaaimed at promoting the educational and tou-rist possibilities of the territory. In the centreof the Park, there are the ruins of one of Matil-de’s castles and the ancient Abbey of SantaMaria, in all their fascinating history. Then the-re is Castello di Serravalle, intact in its medie-val village mystery, complete with obligatoryghost, and Bazzano, a small artistic town,dominated by a fortress, the Rocca dei Benti-voglio. Between Zola Predosa and Crespel-lano, you can discover some of the most beau-tiful country-houses of the Bolognese nobili-ty: treasures of art and architecture whichhave since the 17th century enriched the coun-tryside between the Via Emilia and theBazzanese highway. Nature-lovers should re-member that the hills of the Samoggia Valleyare a genuine open-air geology manual, mar-ked by the spectacular morphology of the“calanchi” (gullies). There are numerous organi-sed visits, including “Itinerando” which everyyear presents a rich programme of excursionsand trekking through the valley in search of itstreasures, always accompanied by expert natu-re guides. The ancient pilgrims’ trail, the“Cassìola”, used to pass along the SamoggiaValley and then over the range between theSamoggia and Panaro, leading them to thehigh Apennine passes for Pistoia and thenLucca and the Tyrrhenian Sea.
The annual calendar is also packed with eventswhich enliven the territory in every seasonand offer the precious op-portunity of visitingplaces that are not always open to the public.
Buon appetito The extraordinary richness of its traditionalfood and wine specialities is undoubtedly theSamoggia Valley’s best calling card. A highlyvaried and appetising collection, it is basedon food and wine of the highest quality, rootein the ancient farming traditions of this land:Mortadella IGP from Bologna, Parmigiano-Reggiano DOP, Pignoletto DOC Colli Bolo-gnesi, balsamic vinegar, chestnuts and trufflesare only the tip of this diamond. Productswhich have remained faithful to the methodsof the past, with that attention to the requi-rements of quality and genuineness which ismore and more appreciated today. Biological,original and seasonal are more than justwords here. They are values that can be foundin the “Mercato delle cose buone” (Market ofFine Produce). Created to give this heritagethe value it deserves, La Strada dei Vini e deiSapori “Città Castelli e Ciliegi” (The Wine andFlavours Route “Cities, Castles and Cherries”)accompanies discerning tourists through thewine and gastronomic secrets of the valley inan itinerary which will remain impressed ontheir taste buds. The blossoming of the cher-ry trees in spring is worth a visit in itself.
How to get here - A1 Motorway Milan-Rome: from Florence,
exit at Casalecchio di Reno, then continuein the direction of Vignola-Maranello; from Modena, exit at Modena Sud, then continue for Vignola and Bazzano.
- Road: from Bologna, follow the State Highway, the Bazzanese, in the direction of Maranello; from Modena, the State Highway 623 of Passo Brasa.
- Railway: Bologna-Vignola: stations in Casa-lecchio di Reno, Zola Predosa, Crespellanoand Bazzano. Suburban trains every hour from the station Bologna Centrale.
- Buses ATC connect the towns to each other and Bologna. www.atc.bo.it
Courts, Churches and CourtyardsCorti, Chiese e Cortili (Courts, Churches andCourtyards) is a musical event which from Mayto September presents a rich programme ofclassical, sacred and traditional concerts,which ha-ve for years highlighted places ofgreat historical and architectural interest. Info: Tel. 051.836445, [email protected]
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The Mercato delle cose buone (Market of Fi-ne Produce) is an old-fashioned market, whe-re you can buy directly from the producers.The stalls are run by producers from the Sa-moggia Valley. The majority of the productsare local, biological foodstuffs, but there is al-so local craftwork and fair-trade produce.Every occasion of this travellingmarket is accompanied byshows in the local squares.
EventsGastronomy and Wine
The territory of Zola Predosa, just 12 kilome-tres from the centre of Bologna, lies betweenhigh plains and gentle hills, with grape cultiva-tion dominating. A land that has producedwine of value since the Middle Ages (it is evenmentioned in a parchment from 1033 kept inthe Abbey of Nonantola). In fact, it was speci-fically for the transportation of wine that aroad across the hills was built in 1250, whichtoday is the local stretch of the Wine andFlavours Route “Cities, Castles, and Cherries”.Zola is a member of the National Associationof “Wine Cities”.
Palazzo Stella is the ancient seat of theMunicipality of Zola. Outside a memorial pla-que recalls the local origins of the painter
Francesco Raibolini, known as Il Francia (1450-1517), an important figure of the BologneseRenaissance.
Recently restored, Villa Edwige Garagnanitoday houses the Tourist Office in charge ofall the Samoggia Valley. Built in the secondhalf of the 18th century, the villa is a beautifulexample of a bourgeois holiday residence.There are beautiful woodland frescoes attri-buted to the Basoli.
However, it is along the River Lavino, a tribu-tary of the Samoggia, that in the space of just4 kilometres there is a concentration of someof the most beautiful historical Bologneseresidences, many of which offer their atmo-spheric settings for all types of events, frommeetings to refined courses in traditionalcooking.
Palazzo Albergati is an elegant 17th centuryvilla, commissioned by Girolamo Albergati,Bolognese ambassador in Rome and doyen ofthe Bolognese Senate. The simplicity andcompactness of the façade is misleading,hiding the splendour of the interiors, whichmake it one of the best examples of Baroquearchitecture in Italy. The architect GianGiacomo Monti, already active at the courtsof Modena and Mantua, created the arch atthe beginning of the portico of San Luca inBologna. Particularly beautiful is the centralhall, with its 30-metre-high ceiling. The galle-ry of the hall was used in the 18th century byFrancesco Albergati as a theatre for perfor-mances of his own works, as well as works byVoltaire and Goldoni. The villa was visited bymany important figures of European politicsand culture, among whom Frederick IV ofDenmark, James III of England and Scotland,the Queen of Poland, Giacomo Casanova, aswell as both Goldoni himself and Alfieri. Acurious note: the staircases are notably bizar-re, being helicoidal, spiral, double-spiral, and
with asymmetrical steps. The gar-den-park around the villa reflectsthe ditches and canals of the sur-rounding plains and reveals thedouble function of the building - atone and the same time a holiday
home and the administrative centre for its
Zola Predosa
The Wine and Flavours Route “Cities,Castles and Cherries” which winds throughthe hills between Bologna and Modena, gui-des travellers through “one of the most suc-culent areas of Italy”. Spending time in thisarea means immerging yourself in the mostauthentic part of Emilia, where nature is stillthe boss, but above all, it means having theunique experience of tasting and discoveringthe secrets of one of the most noted andappreciated cookery styles in the world. Thevast selection of typical products which youcan try along this route includes cherries,plums, potatoes, mushrooms, truffles, che-stnuts and honey, as well as the undisputedexcellence of the regional cooking, such astortellini (always in broth!), Parmigiano Reg-giano (Parmesan), Mortadella di Bologna andthe Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena,accompanied by DOC dei Colli Bolognesiwines and Lambrusco of Modena. TheBolognese territories which are part of theroute are Zola Predosa, Crespellano, Bazza-no, Monteveglio, Monte San Pietro, Savignoand Castello di Serravalle, as well as Casalec-chio di Reno, Sasso Marconi and Vergato. Info: Via N. Tavoni 20/c41058 Vignola (MO)Tel. 059.776711 - Fax 059.7702930info@cittacastelliciliegi.itwww.cittacastelliciliegi.it
Gastronomy and Wine
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lands. Still in its original condition, the villa isused for conferences, exhibitions, and musicaland theatrical events. Open to the public onsuch occasions, the interior can only be visi-ted by appointment.
Palazzo Pepoli was commissioned in the 16th
century by Alessandro Bentivoglio, son ofGiovanni II, Lord of Bo-logna. After the fallof the Bentivoglio family, the building pas-sed into the hands of the Marescotti andthen the Pepoli family, who were responsi-ble for the 18th-century alterations in neo-Classical style, by the architect AngeloVenturoli. Inside there is a rich collection ofpainted wooden ceilings. The stables arenext to the main residence, on two floors(horse-stable and hayloft).
In the garden, remains of the numerous foun-tains and fish-ponds can still be seen, fedwith water from the River Lavino, which alsosupplies water for the small lake in the parkof the nearby Villa Magnani, designed bythe famous Piedmont landscapist Ernesto diSambuy, also responsible for the GiardiniMargherita in Bologna and the park of VillaDonini in Calderara di Reno.Villa Zanchini Garagnani, built from 1679onwards, is notable for its highly originalcovered driveway, which can also accommo-date coaches, which proceeds through a set-ting with spatial-multiplication effects tothe elegant double-fronted arrival loggia.
Palazzo Albergati
Photo by Regione Emilia Romagna
Mortadella di Bologna is a salami with thedesignation Protected Geographical Indica-tion (IGP). Loved the world over, mentionedin films, literature and in numerous writingsof all periods, mortadella is the most repre-sentative gastronomic product of Bologna,so much so that in some parts of Italy, mor-tadella and Bologna have become synonyms.It has ancient origins: there are two stonesfrom the Roman period, kept in the BolognaArchaeological Museum: one shows pig-rea-ring, introduced to the Bolognese area by theCelts, while the other shows a butcher usinga mortar (from which the sausage takes itsname) to crush together the meat and spicesused to prepare the sausage. The earliestwritten documents referring to mortadelladate back to the Middle Ages and attributethe invention to Bolognese monks. Typicallyit has a cylindrical shape and , when sliced, apink colour with scattered white cubes oflard (the so-called “lardelli”), mostly takenfrom throat fat, the most highly considered.The smell is unmistakable, lightly spiced,
while the taste is full and balanced, thanksspecifically to the “lardelli” which add atouch of sweetness. Mortadella di Bolognais produced using techniques that are uni-que in the world, starting with carefullyselected pork from IGP-designated farms,which is minced three different ways, eachone using a specific machine, the last ofwhich has a name that says it all: “stermi-nio”! The “lardelli” are then added to theresulting mixture, which is put into skins inthe quantities required (from 500g to100kg). Cooking is the following phase andalso the most delicate, in which the morta-della takes on its characteristic aroma. Theprocess requires dry-air heaters, with coo-king times from a few hours to whole daysaccording to the size. The higher the quali-ty of the meat (and in particular of the fat),the higher the temperature that the morta-della can stand, with the advantage of itbecoming more digestible. Over time thearea of production has spread as far asLombardy, but mortadella at its birthplacehas a whole different flavour.
Gastronomy and Wine
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Zola Jazz&Wine: end of May/June. Zola Fair: July. Sport Festival: second week end of SeptemberMortadella Please: October. Madonna dei Prati May Fair: first Sunday of MayPonte RoncaRonca Fair: second Saturday and Sunday of June
MARKET DAY: Monday
Events
Contemporary art is housed in Ca’ La Ghiron-da, a museum and exhibition complex in the
greenery of the hills behind Ponte Ronca.
The Museum of Ca’ La Ghironda is set in tenhectares of park with an enormous variety ofplants. Recently expanded, the centre hostsworks of contemporary art, and uses the exi-sting building, without in any way altering itsappearance. It contains works by over one hun-dred artists such as Capogrossi, De Chirico,Fontana, Depero, Morandi, Picasso and Chagall.It is also an ideal place for conventions, confe-rences and concerts. The environment andworks of art come together in the park sur-rounding the villa, with an original mixture ofmore than 200 sculptures by foreign and Italianartists (Manzù, Cascella, Mastronunzio, Gher-mandi, Yasuda, Mastroianni, Benetton, Monari,
Stahler). The workshop area, by contrast, is re-served for educational activities and exhibi-tions of works by young artists. Overnight staysare also possible. There are guided visits, confe-rences, conventions, courses, educational acti-vities and workshops for schools.
CA’ LA GHIRONDAVia Leonardo da Vinci, 1940069 Zola Predosa - Ponte Ronca (BO)Tel. 051.757419 - Fax [email protected] - www.ghironda.itOpening times: in winter Saturday and Sunday10-12 am and 3-6 pm; in summer 10-12 am and 3-7 pm; closed on Monday,other days by appoin-tment. Tickets: full price € 5, reductions € 3.
Museums
Cà la Ghironda, works of “Sculptures Park”
Photo by Provincia di Bologna - Guido Avoni
As well as wines and the classic tortellini,other specialities of the territory are Sughid’uva (grape must desserts), Saba (traditionalcooked must), the Torta zolese (cake of Zola),the Raviole di San Nicolò (sweet, filled pa-stries), the Torta di riso (rice cake), and salami,in particular mortadella. Zola is the place tofind the main producers of the most famouscured meat of Emilia: mortadella. Many com-panies are open for guided visits.
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Crespellano, ancient name Fundus Crispinia-num, was created on the land which a Romangeneral, named Crispino, received as a prize atthe end of his military career. The Romans arealso to thank for the two main roads of theterritory: the Via Emilia and Via Claudia (nowcalled the Bazzanese).
In the Middle Ages, control of Crespellanopassed from the Abbey of Nonantola toMatilde of Canossa, and it was then be invol-ved several times in the wars betweenBologna and Modena. But it was in a moremodern period, once peace was established,that the territory became rich in authentictreasures of architecture and landscape.
From the 17th century onwards, country resi-dences for the major noble Bolognese fami-lies began to appear. Still today these villaspunctuate and give order to the countrysidearound the town, offering the chance, per-haps by bicycle, to follow an itinerary aroundthe noble houses, starting from Zola Predosa.
The “Percorso delle 10 Ville” passes throughan extraordinary selection of architecturalstyles, from the 16th to the 19th century, mostof which can only be viewed from outside.Occasions not to be missed to discover thecharm of the villas are the events of “Corti,Chiese e Cortili” (Courts, Churches andCourtyards), often hosted by the villas.
Palazzo Grassi, now called Garagnani, is a16th-century building of austere beauty, with atower dominating the town: in the famousdrawing of “Crespolano” by Vanvitelli in 1569,conserved in the Vatican Museum, it is promi-nently placed opposite the parish church.Today it houses a library and cultural centre.Going into the heart of the Roman-style sub-
division of the land, we meet the beautifulcomplexes of Villa Stella (with a notable gar-den) and Villa Aldrovandi, belonging to thefamily of the famous botanist.
In Calcara, in Via G. Garibaldi, in the directionof Bazzano, there is Villa Bianconi, also calledthe “Casino dell’olmo”, after the nearbyOratory of the Madonna dell’Olmo. Builtfrom 1780 onwards, Villa Bianconi is a highlyinteresting neo-16th century building: inspiredby the Rotonda del Palladio, it is one of themost significant examples of Palladian archi-tecture in Italy. This is thanks to Carlo Bian-coni, the landlord’s brother, a multi-talentedartist, member of the Accademia Clementinaof Bologna and Permanent Secretary of theMilanese Academy of Brera. Under the stair-case leading to the ample veranda, there wasthe garage for carriages.
Still in Calcara, Villa Turrini Rossi is an ele-gant 17th-century building, with a long, cy-press-lined avenue and a large surroundingpark. Inside there is a copy of the portraitwhich Annibale Carracci made of its firstowner, a rich banker from Bologna, the origi-nal of which is in the British Museum inLondon. The villa is also famous for havinghosted the poet Ugo Foscolo in April 1799,escaping from the Austrian troops. Today it iscalled Villa Nicolaj and hosts events.
Another interesting building in Calcara isVilla Meriggiani, built from 1780 onwards toa design by the architect Angelo Venturoli. Inneo-Classical style, there is a large decoratedloggia and a magnificent staircase with largestatues. Works in tempera by Basoli are con-served in the drawing room overlooking thegarden.
Crespellano
View over the hills - Photo by Comune di Crespellano
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Along the provincial road we find Villa Banzi,later called Beccatelli Grimaldi, from the 16th
century. In the middle of a beautiful park, it isnotable for the surprising staircase whichleads to the loggia on the upper floor, createdaround the mid-18th century, perhaps by amember of the large Bibiena family. Despitethe limited space, the architect managed tocreate an extraordinarily monumental effect,which would seem to confirm the authorship.Today it hosts events.
Along the road which rises from the Bazzane-se highway to Oliveto, we reach Villa Puglie, a19th-century landowner’s villa with long, uniquesurrounding walls, today the site of receptionsand meetings. Further along the road, on thesummit stands the unmistakable profile ofVilla Stagni, in a splendid panoramic positionrevealing its original defensive function, builtin 1474 by Eliseo Cattanei. This villa-fort is oneof the oldest houses of Crespellano and stilltoday, despite changes, it remains one of themost atmospheric places in the territory.
About 1 kilometre from the town, there is theOratory and Convent of San Francesco. Thechurch, mentioned in writings from 1232 con-served in the Church of San Francesco in Bolo-gna, is considered to be one of the most an-cient dedicated to the saint from Assisi, much-honoured all over this territory. On the 2nd
August every year, there is the celebration ofthe “Perdono di Assisi”, when it is possible tovisit the Oratory.
The small, simple, austere church of San Savi-no is in fact the earliest parish church in Cre-spellano, dating back, according to some sour-ces, to the 10th century. The area in front of thechurch has a 300-year-old olive tree and mo-numental cypresses. The interior can be visitedin summer, on the Thursday and Sunday of thethird week of July, when there is the traditionalprocession for the festival of the patron saint, apractice that has continued since 1636.
In the village of Sant’Almaso, you can discoverone jewel of the Bolognese countryside: theConfortino with its dovecote tower. The Con-fortino is an ancient monks’ resting place da-ting back to the end of the 13th century, whilethe colombaia (dovecote) is a tower with twoorders of external loggias, built to keep dovesand collect the guano. It is perhaps the mostbeautiful in the whole province and is eviden-ce of the great importance of hemp cultiva-tion, for which the guano was used as a ferti-
lizer. This antique culture is alsorepresented by the six beautifulmills (maceri) along the road (Viadei maceri) to Castellaccio, asmall village built around a parti-cular oratory. From here you cancontinue to the large stables ofthe Scuderie degli Orsi Mangelli,in Madonna dei Prati.
The wine and food specialities ofCrespellano go from the DOC deiColli Bolognesi wines to tortelliniand lasagne, sughi d’uva (grape
must desserts, to which a festival is dedicated)and rice cake. The town’s pork products arealso famous, often combined with the classiccrescentine fritte (crumbly fried savourypastries) and tigelle (small savoury scones).
Mercato delle cose buone (Market of Fine Produce):on occasion of the Festa dei Sughi (Grape must desserts Festival)Crespellano Fair: end of SeptemberFesta dei Sughi: OctoberChocolate Festival: half of November. MARKET DAY: Wednesday in Crespellanoand Thursday in Calcara
Events
Villa Stagni
Photo by Comune di Crespellano
Colombaia of the Confortino
Photo by Comune di Crespellano
In spring, the countryside all around Bazzanoexplodes into spectacular cherry blossom,definitely worth a digression. From the pathalongside the Samoggia, for example, you cango for a walk or bike-ride in the country, withsplendid views, in particular at night, of thehill of the Rocca.
Nearby there is Ca’ del Vento, ex-property ofthe Casini family: among its members thefamous Dante scholar, historian and politicianTommaso and the ex-President of theChamber, Pierferdinando. Beyond that, tur-ning left at the pilaster, you reach the 17th cen-tury Villa Tanari, restored at the end of the18th century by Venturoli: of particular noteare the drawing room and the Oratory ofSanta Giustina with a canvas by Gandolfi sho-wing the Nativity of Mary.
Among the other villas in the territory, of greatinterest are Villa del Gandolfo, 17th century,
with the Oratory of the Madon-na della Neve from the 19th cen-
tury; Villa Pedrini, early 19th
century, built onto the wallof the Rocca; Villa Gessa, foryears the holiday residence
of the great Bolognese play-wright Alfredo Testoni and
Villa Giulia, which appa-rently hosted Guido Reniand his pupil Simone
Cantarini in 1637.
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Recognised as a “City of art”, Bazzano lies atthe foot of the hills between Modena andBologna, on the River Samoggia. The heart ofthe town is the 19th-century Piazza Garibaldi,on one side of which there is the Oratory ofSanta Maria del Suffragio, built by the homo-nymous brotherhood in 1673, with a sundial onits façade and inside, a single nave with twopaintings by Gandolfi. Also of note are thebuilding known as “La Repubblica”, decoratedwith strange horses’ heads, and the PalazzoComunale (Town Hall), which houses the com-munal art collection. The square is completedby “La Giuditta”, a beautiful fountain with astatue of a bather, the inspiration for the cakeof the same name, a speciality of the town.
The Rocca dominates the town from a hilltopabove the historical centre. Of medieval ori-gins, it was built by Matilde of Canossa, whileits present structure dates back to 1473, whenit became the property of the Bentivogliofamily, at the time Lords of Bologna. Here in1799, the poet Ugo Foscolo, whom we havealready encountered as a fugitive in VillaNicolaj in Crespellano, was held prisoner.Today the Rocca houses the “A. Crespellani”Archaeological Museum, an information pointfor The Wine and Flavours Route “Cities,Castles and Cherries” and the Musical Centreof the Union of the Samoggia Valley, whohold a workshop to study Baroque music,attended by musicians from all over Europe.Next to the Rocca, there is the Church of SanFrancesco, restored in the 18th century.
Bazzano
The “A. Crespellani” Archaeological MuseumHoused in the ancient Rocca, the Museumwas created at the end of the 19th centurythanks to the work and passion of the archa-eologist Arsenio Crespellani, the organiserof excavations in the territory of Bazzanoand in the surrounding hills. It has a sectionwith material from the Iron and Bronze Agesfrom the necropoli of Bazzano, a Roman andHigh Medieval section with two large col-lections of ceramics and a contemporarysection with Risorgimento arms and uni-forms. Guided visits, conferences, conven-tions, courses, educational activities and
workshops for schools, family activities, aconference hall, library, bookshop and amultimedia room.
CIVIL MUSEUM ARSENIO CRESPELLANIRocca Bentivoglio Via Contessa Matilde, 10 - 40053 Bazzano (BO)Tel. 051.836442 - Fax [email protected] times:Tuesday to Friday 3pm-7pm, Saturday 9am-12pm and 3am-7pm, Sunday 3pm-7pm, clo-sed on Monday. Tickets: € 2, guided visitswith prior booking.
Museums
Giuditta
Photo by Comune di Bazzano
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On the road to Castelfranco, you can see theSantuario della Sabbionara, dedicated tothe Beata Vergine delleGrazie, built in 1630 asthanks for having escapedthe plague. Inside, thereare illusionist frescoes.The road continues straightalong the direction of theMuzza, a small river ofgreat historical importan-ce. The bank on which theroad runs is in fact theremains of the vallo dellaMuzza, a defensive struc-ture built in the 14th centu-ry on the border betweenthe territories of Bolognaand Modena. Today thearea conserves a particularenvironmental integrity, worth visiting onfoot or by bicycle, using the track alongsidethe water.
Along the road to Montebudello, it is worthstopping at the Cemetery, with a central neo-Classical structure and elegant tombs of themost important families of the Bazzano area.From here, you can continue along a stupen-dous hill road, with enchanting views of theRocca and the Abbey of Monteveglio.
The gastronomical specialities of the territo-ry of Bazzano are the classic tortellini, thistlesoup and the above-mentioned “Torta dellaGiuditta”. Then there are the “Tagliatelle dellaDuchessa”, pasta with chicken livers inspiredby Maria Luigia, the Duchess of Parma. Visitingthe area, the Duchess stopped in an inn whereshe tried the appetising dish, liking it so muchshe wanted to give it her name.
One of Bazzano’s native sons was the legen-dary maker of racing cars and racing driverAmedeo Gordini, still famous thanks aboveall to the French who nicknamed him le sor-cier, the magician of motors. He was a perso-
nal friend and racing rival of EnzoFerrari, who remembers him asthe protagonist of an important“piece in the history of theFrench automobile improved bythe talents of one of the manyItalians to have worked in France”.In 1999, the Province of Bolognaand the Bazzano Town Councilpromoted a philatelic twinning ofItaly and France to celebrate thecentenary of his birth. The weekly market of Bazzano isone of the biggest in the provin-ce with roots going back to 1576.Since 2007 Bazzano has become“Slow Cities”.
The Anelloni di Bazzano are a variety ofcherry common in the foothills of the Sa-moggia Valley. Here the cherry becamevery important from the end of the 19th
century, gradually substituting the mulber-ry as the staple fruit and then becoming aspecialized cultivation. After a break dueto the war, cherry production grew con-stantly until it became the main elementof the local economy. The “anelloni diBazzano” can be found in the territories ofBazzano, Castello di Serravalle, Crespella-no, Monte San Pietro, Monteveglio, Savi-gno and Zola Predosa.
Gastronomy and Wine
Health Fair: JuneBazzano Autumn Festival:mid-SeptemberMercato delle cose buone (Market of Fine Produce):on occasion of the Autumn Festival
MARKET DAY: Saturday
Events
Clock Tower
Photo by Comune di Bazzano
Rocca
Photo by Comune di Bazzano
A 17th-century stone in the wall to the left ofthe altar speaks of a miraculous happening:on the night between the 24th and 25th March1527, the date of the annunciation of Mary,Monteveglio was besieged by the Lanziche-necchi, but was saved by a sudden snowstormwhich dispersed the fierce attackers.
The territory is also a precious natural andenvironmental zone: to take care of it, theRegional Park of the Abbey of Montevegliohas been created.
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The enchanting fortified village of Monteve-glio, once the most important and unconque-rable fortress of the reign of Queen Matilde,was built together with the ancient Abbey ofSanta Maria Assunta on the brow of a hilloverlooking the valley.
The origins of the Castle date back to the year1000: of the original fortifications, thereremain the arched gateway through whicheven today you must pass to enter the village(you can see the fulcrums of the drawbridge)and a massive tower, both crowned with swal-low-tail battlements, from which there is asplendid view of the surrounding hills. TheTower is open every Sunday and on publicholidays, from April to October, 3-7pm.
Proceeding along the cobbled streets past theancient stone houses, you reach the Abbey.Built in 1092 in Romanesque style, it has a 15th-century bell tower. Inside there are the 10th-century apse and crypt. Connected to thechurch are two cloisters: one 15th-century withdouble-loggia, the other older, of which onlyone wing remains, in a panoramic positionover the plains.
Monteveglio
This used to be the seat of the religiouscommunity founded by Don GiuseppeDossetti, “a religious and political figure ofgreat importance and intensity”. In 1956,Dossetti undertook a historical confronta-tion with the communist Giuseppe Dozzafor the seat of Mayor of Bologna. A guidingmember of the Second Vatican Council, hedied in 1996 and is buried in the smallcemetery of Casaglia in the Park of MonteSole, where his community is now based.
View of the borough of Monteveglio
Photo by Comune di Monteveglio - Gabriele Baldazzi
Culture and Famous Names
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Nature, but also small villages where timestands still. Among these, there is Oliveto, ona hill to the right of the Samoggia, in ancienttimes covered with olive trees. Donated in 776by the Lombard Dukes of Persiceta to theAbbey of Nonantola, Oliveto became a freeCouncil and survived as such for about a cen-tury, then passing of its own will under thecontrol of the Bologna City Council. Amongits notable monuments, there are the CasaGrande dell’Ebreo from 1410, seat of the localJewish community and of the first bank in thewhole area, the bell tower of the Church ofSan Paolo, in which a 17th-century altar pieceattributed to Elisabetta Sirani is conserved,
and the Bronzina, a late-Middle-Age buildingwhich was the hotel of the Grandi di Spagna inthe 16th century, then a leper hospital and final-ly a bronze foundry. Apparently the family ofindustrialists, the Olivetti, have their origins inOliveto.
Should you want beautiful views over thePadana Plains and the Tuscany-Emilia Apen-nines, then come to Montebudello, on a hillonly 2.5 kilometres from the county town. Thevillage is actually divided into two habitationsnearly a kilometre apart: the first is built aroundthe Church of Sant’Andrea in Corneliano, a namewhich recalls the ancient Roman colonization.
Matilde di Canossa, at only nine years ofage, inherited a huge feudal empire whichstretched from Tuscany to Mantua, with anetwork of castles and forts at its centre inthe hills of Emilia. The Bolognese territory,and particularly the Samoggia Valley, was onthe border between the lands of the Empireand the Papacy, and the web of fortificationswas particularly articulated. In the 11th centu-ry, when the battle exploded for the investi-ture between Church and Empire, the prota-gonists were Pope Gregory VII and EmperorEnrico IV, Matilde’s cousin. The Pope wasdeposed by the Emperor and the Emperorexcommunicated by the Pope. There was warin the air. Gregory VII was travelling toGermany for a definitive settlement, but thedescent into Italy by Enrico IV forced him totake refuge in the Castle of Canossa underthe protection of Matilde, his ally. After along negotiation, on 26th January 1077, Enrico,dressed as a pilgrim, obtained a pardon fromthe Pope. But shortly afterwards, the fight forpower began again. In 1081, Enrico proclai-
med Matilde guilty of lese-majesty. Matildebarricaded herself in Canossa, while Enrico IVtook over most of her lands. Only fourcastles remained loyal, among which Mon-teveglio. And it was specifically Monte-veglio that sent the Emperor’s plans up insmoke: for four months, it resisted victoriou-sly against the siege of the imperial army,which had descended to expunge the humi-liation of 1077. Enrico IV was forced to orderthe retreat. Saved from the threat, Matildededicated herself to reinforcing and expan-ding her feud. She supported the building ofchurches and cathedrals, created hospicesfor the poor and was instrumental in thecreation of the University of Bologna. In 1111,the new Emperor, Enrico V, the son of hergreat enemy, nominated her vice-Queen ofItaly. A cultured woman (she could write andspeak three languages), a strong characterand an important political figure in the inter-national affairs of her time, Matilde died onthe 24th July 1115 and was buried in 1632 in St.Peter’s in Rome, in the monumental sepul-chre by Bernini.
Culture and Famous Names
Abbey of Monteveglio
Photo by Comune di Monteveglio - Gabriele Baldazzi
The Regional Park of the Abbey ofMonteveglio covers a significant area of thehilly territory below the habitation ofMonteveglio. This protected area, borderedto the east and west by the River Ghiaia diSerravalle and River Marzatore, has alterna-ting farming land, which conserves the tradi-tional order of the Bolognese hills, largeareas of gypsum formations, of particulargeological interest, and the steep woodedslopes of small protected valleys of notablenaturalistic value. The historical Abbey issituated on the highest point of the prettymedieval village, set around one of the mainhills of the Park, an example of the ancientfortified and religious centres so typical ofthe Samoggia Valley, as well as the nearbyPanaro Valley. The Park can easily be reachedboth from Bologna and Modena along the“Bazzane-se” highway to Muffa, then turningsouth for Monteveglio.
Centro Parco San TeodoroVia Abbazia 28 - Monteveglio (BO)Site of the Park’s offices and the Educatio-nalWorkshop, open to the public Tuesday,Thursday and Friday 9-12 am.Info: Tel. 051.6701044 - Fax 051.3513872segreteria@parcoabbazia.itwww.parcoabbazia.itwww.regione.emilia-romagna.it/parchiVisitors’ Centre San Teodoro, next toCentro Parco. Exhibition of farm productsand information material available. Open onSunday and on public holidays from April toOctober 3pm-7pm
The Visitors’ Centre of the Castle is in theentrance tower of upper Monteveglio. Openevery Sunday and on public holidays fromMarch to November 3-7 pm.
Nature
Abbazia in festa, cultural and historicalrecreation of the medieval period; theperiod of Queen Matilde is recreatedaround the Abbey with food and drink,costumes, music and entertainment shows,while in the main square, there is a marketof local produce: second weekend of June.Autumn Festival, the traditional roast che-stnuts and the excellent wines from ourBolognese hills are at the centre of thisevent. There are also recreations of theancient crafts of the valley’s folk culture.Traditional popular music accompaniesand gives rhythm to the smiths, carpentersand all the other craft workers: secondweekend of October.Festival of the Saracca, a popular festivalin which the inhabitants of Oliveto go fromhouse to house with a sardine hanging froma branch. They sing, dance, drink and finallybury the sardine at the foot of a woodencross on a hillside. It derives from the festi-val of the “sardana”, inherited from theSpanish during their passage here in 1527:second Sunday of March.Delivery of the Votive Candle, at theChurch of the Abbey of Monteveglio, thereis the celebration of the offering of a votivecandle to the Madonna, delivered by theMayor to the Abbot: March.Mercato delle cose buone (Market of Fine Produce): on occasion of the Autumn Festival
MARKET DAY: Thursday
Events
dows. The Parish Church of Sant'Andrea hasa 17th-century appearance, but already exi-sted in the 11th century. Among the wine and gastronomic speciali-ties, there are the Pignoletto and Chasselaiswines, the Anellone variety of cherries,Parmigiano Reggiano (Parmesan) and thefresh cheeses produced by the local creame-ries, many of which sell directly to thepublic, and of course the crescentine (crum-bly fried savoury pastries).
Monteveglio is a member of the NationalAssociation of “Wine Cities”.
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Golf Club CampaninoPractice course with 18 shot positions, idealfor training and for perfecting before to facedemanding courses.Technical data: 9 holes, 4 par 3, 5 par 4, 130 mts a.s.l. Info: via Barlete, 52 - 40050 Monteveglio (BO)Tel. 051.6705387 - Fax [email protected]
Sport and Active Tourism
The second group of houses is known asCastellazzo: of the ancient castle, thereremain only the foundations (in the ground ofa private villa), the tower and the 14th-centu-ry Oratory of Sant'Ubaldo with ogive win-
The Hortus conclusus of Serravalle is asmall vegetable garden in the medievalstyle: following a short, well-labelled cour-se, you can see the flower beds (TheGarden of Delights), the aromatic plants(The Medicinal Herb-Garden) and thevegetables (The Cabbage Patch), whichwere cultivated in the 14th century, whenthe village and all the surrounding territo-ry were governed by the Capitano dellaMontagna (Mountain Ranger). The cultiva-tion techniques are those of medievaltimes (rain irrigation, organic fertilizer andnatural insecticides such as chrysanthe-mums and nettles), as traditional as thetools and methods employed in creatingthe beds and climbing frames for antiqueroses: chestnut-wood poles tied with wil-low twigs. The Medieval Garden can bevisited when the Ecological Museum ofthe Hills and Wine is open. At weekendsand for schools, there are educationalworkshops on aromatic, symbolic, magicaland forgotten plants, natural cultivationtechniques and the construction of raisedbeds. Visits to the Medieval Garden last 45minutes and can be combined with a visitto the Ecological Museum. Info and booking: Tel. [email protected] Library Tel. 051.6710728www.ortomedievale.it
Nature
The fortified village of Castello di Serravallehas ancient origins and even today preservesall its medieval charm. Built to defend theByzantine Empire of Ravenna against theBarbaric invasions and razed to the groundby the Lombards in the 8th century due to itsstrategic military position, the village wasrebuilt in the Middle Ages on the Romanfoundations. In the 9th century, it offered asy-lum to Charlemagne as he was going toRome. Until 1109, it was part of the feud ofQueen Matilde of Canossa, and was bitterly
Castello di Serravalle
The Battle of Zappolino and the “Stolen bucket”.The battle was fought on the 15th November1325, at a site now commemorated by aninscribed stone in the village of Bersagliera.It was an immense defeat for Bologna. TheBolognese were numerically superior, butnot as regards cavalry, which proved decisi-ve. On the side of Modena, there were alsothe Counts of Panico (page 63) and DaCuzzano. The Bolognese troops, mostlypeasants, were soon overcome and the factthat they were not all killed was only dueto the onset of night. On the 16th, the troopsof Modena took Crespellano and on the17th, they were at the gates of Bologna, butthey did not besiege it. The following year,through diplomatic channels, the Bolo-gnese managed to regain their castles andransom all the prisoners. The battle is narra-ted in the 19th century heroic-comic poemLa Secchia rapita (The Stolen Bucket) by theModena poet Alessandro Tassoni, whotook the title from an episode which hasbecome a legend of the rivalry between thetwo cities.The soldiers of Modena, on reaching thecity walls of Bologna, near Porta San Felice,stole a bucket from a well on the Via Emiliaas a joke, taking it back to Modena as a sortof trophy. It might well have happenedseven hundred years ago, but the bucket isstill there in Modena, kept in the Ghirlan-dina, and even today in Bologna, its theft isnot one of the favourite subjects of conver-sation…
History and Culture
House of the Mountain Ranger
Photo by Provincia di Bologna - Guido Avoni
contested between the Ghibellines of Mo-dena and the Guelphs of Bologna. The dispute ended at the Battle of Zappoli-no, in which the Bolognese were defeated,with over three thousand casualties and asmany prisoners.
Of the ancient fortification that gave the vil-lage its name, you can still admire themedieval gates and the tower, dating back to
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1523, while the Lord’s palace, built entirely inbrick below the tower, is in 18th-century style.The castle, adapted to be a noble familyresidence around 1500, was the property ofthe noble family of Boccadiferro until theend of the 19th century. In the evocativeentrance hall, a sandstone bas-relief depictsthe cavalier Iacopino da S. Lorenzo in Collina,famous Capitano della Montagna (MountainRanger).
At the castle there is no lack of mystery: thesouls of the wives of the cruel Boccadiferrostill move around the fortress. In the nights ofMay, their ghosts come out to seek revenge,spreading a mysterious perfume around thevillage, while in the castle tower, the moans ofBoccadiferro, himself killed by his thirteenthand most cunning wife, still echo around.
In the heart of the village, the 13th-centuryVillage Hall was the seat of the Magistracy ofthe Capitano della Montagna occidentale(Western Mountain Rangers). Today it consistsof a 16th-century bell tower and a beautifulloggia through which you enter the EcologicalMuseum of the Hills and Wine.
Not to be missed the itinerary of the tower-houses, rural nuclei in stone characterized bythe distinctive architectural element of theirtowers, whose role over time has changedfrom defensive to productive (dovecotes).
The imposing beauty and secrets of Castellodi Serravalle inspired the composer fromLucca Gateano Luporini (1865-1948), who in1921 wrote the music for the opera Amore emorte, set in the castle, with libretto byGiuseppe Lipparini.
Only 2 kilometres away, the Church ofSant’Apollinare is worth taking time to visit,with frescoes by Guardassoni and Samoggia,standing in the centre of an enchanting plain,surrounded by vineyards, a constant elementwhich characterises the territory of the valley.In fact, it is not by chance that Castello diSerravalle is a member of the National As-sociation of “Wine Cities”. Another favourite spot for walking or moun-tain-biking are the “calanchi” (gullies), in thearea amidst Castelletto, Bersagliera, Maiolaand Tiola.
Salt water and the River Marzatore. Alongthe road which follows the River Marzatore,there is a very special spring: its water isactually salty. It is fossil sea water, trapped inthe Pliocene clay when the sea withdrew,creating the plains. The spring has beenfamous since ancient times for its medicinalproperties and at the beginning of the 20th
century, became a thermal tourist attrac-tion. Today a visit to the fountain could be achance to discover the countryside of thenarrow valley of the River Marzatore, whosemost important naturalistic value lies in thepresence of protected flowers, such as Scillaand Dog’s Tooth Violet.
Nature
Inside the medieval village, the House of theMountain Rangers houses the Eco Museumof the Hills and Wine, an occasion not tobe missed to understand the territory andthe activities carried out by its inhabitants inthe past and present. The exhibition is divi-ded into nine themes. Each environment isconnected to a journey through the territo-ry, which is the real subject of the museum.The educational tour within the centralstructure ends in the tasting corner, whereyou can try wines from the territory. Forschools, the museum can be booked forsmall educational workshops. Visits to thecastle are possible for organized groups,with the prior agreement of the Council, orduring the village festival.ECO MUSEUM OF THE HILLS AND WINECasa del Capitano Via della Rocca 40050 Castello di Serravalle (BO)Tel. 051.6710728 (Library) 333.4124915info@ecomuseoserravalle.itwww.ecomuseoserravalle.itOpening times: Sunday and public holidays.In winter 2.30pm-5.30pm, in summer 3pm-6.30pm, other days with prior booking, clo-sed on Saturday. Free entrance.
Museums
View of Castello di Serravalle among the clouds
Photo by Promappenino - Riccardo Solmi
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Bonfire of Sant’Antonio: 16th JanuaryMaggiociondolo Fair, walks, parties, sport competitions, traditions, shows: all the month of May.Mercato delle cose buone (Market of Fine Produce):on occasion of the Maggiocondolo.Calici di Stelle (Goblets of stars), an evening of music and tasting: 10th August.Festival of the Fried Gnocco:first and second Sunday of October
MARKET DAY: Monday
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Of particular note for their history and beautyare the Case Rosse (15th and 16th century) andthe Case Bertù (16th century) in Zappolino, Ca-sa Moretti (16th century) in Ponzano and the vil-lages of Gavazzano, Tintoria and Cuzzano,along the Samoggia Valley.
The Palazzo di Cuzzano stands on the sitewhere there was once the castle of thepowerful Da Cuzzano family, who deserved
their reputation for bloody deeds. Banditsfrom Bologna, the Da Cuzzano took refuge intheir castle, oppressing the local population.Muzzarello da Cuzzano, a rebel against thecitizens’ government, became so powerful asto be nominated Lord of Monteveglio andSassuolo, obtaining as wife one of the dau-ghters of Taddeo Pepoli, Lord of Bologna. The ancient castle was destroyed in a fire in1365, with the exception of the tower which isall that remains of the original structure today.Rebuilding took place in the 16th century,taking on the appearance of a noble countryresidence.
Il gnocco fritto (not “lo gnocco” as theItalian language would suggest) is a typicalfood of Emilia, and in the Samoggia Valley,there is a high number of specializedrestaurants. In the rest of the Province ofBologna, it is called the crescentina (aname which, just to complicate things, isused in the mountains of Modena to indi-cate the tigella). Wheat flour, salt, lard andyeast are the ingredients: the resultingpastry is fried according to tradition inabundant boiling lard. It immediatelyexpands and is ready at once to be eatenwith the famous, but never celebratedenough, Bolognese salami. The Festival ofthe Fried Gnocco has over the years beco-me a great attraction. It is in the GuinnessBook of Records for the largest gnoccofritto ever prepared.
Gastronomy and WineTower of the castle - Photo by Provincia di Bologna
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Situated on the banks of the Samoggia,Savigno is an obligatory stop for lovers ofgood cooking.
Savigno is synonymous with truffles and moregenerally with excellent gastronomy basedon the quality of the local products. “Citiesof Truffles”, Savigno is considered “RegionalCapital of the Precious White Truffle of theBolognese Hills”. Just think that out of 2,500inhabitants a good 130 are recognised trufflehunters! Savigno is also a member of theNational Association “Cities of Flavours”,created by the Ministry of Cultural Heritage,which links typical products to the historyand culture of the territory.
The local truffle hunters, accompanied bytheir faithful dogs, spend whole days seekingout the precious product which then gracesthe tables of restaurants and delicatessens.There are numerous restaurants which serve itin its infinite culinary versions based on jea-lously-guarded ancient recipes. In the histori-cal town square, on occasion of the Tartu-festa festival, you can find numerous standswhere it is possible to taste and buy the pre-cious tuber.
There are many other points of interest, star-ting from the town centre.In the town square, there is the small but par-ticular Church of San Matteo, built on thesite where since the 18th century, there hasbeen the Oratory of San Matteo di Mercatodi Savigno, so called after the ancient nameof the town. In front of the church, a sandsto-ne obelisk commemorates the revolt of the15th August 1843, when hundreds of patrioticfollowers of Mazzini rose up for the freedomof Italy from Papal dominion.
Savigno
The Precious White Truffle of the Bolo-gnese Hills is a genuine product of excel-lence of the gastronomy of the Apennines.The territories of our mountains most sui-table for the growth of the precious tuberare Savigno in the Samoggia Valley andGrizzana Morandi, Camugnano, Castel diCasio, Gaggio Montano, Vergato and Por-retta in the Reno Valley. Savigno, Camu-gnano and Castel di Casio are members ofthe national association “Cities of Truffles”.In practically all the Apennines the morecommon summer variety, the Black Truffleor “Scorzone”, is widespread.
Gastronomy and Wine
Precious White Truffle of the Bolognese hills
Private archive
For nature lovers, there is the Percorso Set-te Chiese (The Seven-Church Trail), intotal 20 kilometres long, starting from thetown square. Crossing woods, fields andcherry orchards, the trail leads to the disco-very of a rich territory with evocative lan-dscape, returning finally to its startingpoint. Particularly suitable for mountain-bike excursions, it can also be followed onfoot or horseback. Info: Comune di SavignoTel. 051.6708004 - Fax [email protected]
Nature
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May Palio, the town divides into 3 “contrade”and 9 “frazioni”, and the streets and housesare decorated with the flags and drapes oftheir relative colours. On Sunday, all the par-ticipants take part in the final competition,the winner is named and the festivities con-tinue into the night: May.Mercato delle cose buone (Market of Fine Produce): every second Sunday of the month, from June to December.Antique Market and Exhibition:every second Sunday of the month, fromMarch to December.Market Fair of San Matteo: SeptemberTartufesta: in October and NovemberNational Festival of the Precious WhiteTruffle of the Bolognese Hills:first four Sundays in November
MARKET DAY: Tuesday
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Finally, it must not be forgotten that thewhole area was once full of forts: it is worthvisiting the tiny village of Vénola, with itsparticular tower-houses built between the16th and 17th centuries.
Mulino del Dottore (Water Mill)
Private archive
May Palio
Photo by Comune di Savigno
The territory of Savigno offers travellers aharmonious hilly landscape, rich in trails sui-table not only for trekking and cycling, butalso for cultural excursions. The territory ofthis valley is in fact one continuous surprise,with its parish churches, oratories andancient water mills. Among those still in perfect working order,in Rodiano, there is the 17th-century Mulinodel Dottore, open to the public on Sundayafternoon.
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A vast territory spread around the mid-upperbasin of the River Lavino, Monte San Pietro ischaracterized by ancient villages which, untilthe early years of the last century, were auto-nomous communities. Today, they are villagesthat gravitate around Calderino. The art andhistorical treasures of this area are thereforeto be searched for, touring around the territo-ry, following winding roads, lined by rows ofvines and cherry trees.
After crossing the River Lavino at PonteRivabella, we reach Amola, where there aretwo precious examples of Bolognese art: theVia Crucis by Mauro Gandolfi from 1792 and anorgan by Pietro Agati from 1757, both conser-ved in the 18th-century Parish Church of SantaMaria Assunta. It also contains three canvassesby Guardassoni, among which the MadonnaAssunta in fioriera, blessed by Pope Pious IX.
From Ponte Rivabella, it is also worth visitingthe Oratory of San Lorenzo in Collina, whereonce a year in September, you can admire theMadonna del Castello di Capramozza, a splen-did wooden sculpture, perhaps from the 13th
century. Nearby, in the church of Montemag-giore, there is a painting in tempera of thepatron saint dated 1395, attributed to Cristo-foro da Bologna.
Returning along the Lavino valley-bottomroad, 5 kilometres from Calderino, we reachMonte San Giovanni. In the church, there isone of the oldest and most important still-
working organs in the extremely rich Bolo-gnese heritage. Attributed to a member of theCipri family (16-18th century), it has been expan-ded and restored several times down the cen-turies. It can be found in the choir, above theentrance.
In the area of Oca, we leave the Via Lavino forS. Chierlo. Here, alongside Monte Bonsara (orBonzara), there is the massive form of VillaLambertini, a small fort with imposing ba-stions, crowned with a 16th-century tower.
At the junction which leads from Lavino toMongiorgio, a site of particular interest is theex-monastic complex of the Badia, whichstands in the homonymous village. In the lateMiddle Ages, the Badia was a strategic placeto spend the night for pilgrims going to Romealong the Via Nonantolana. It is an obligatorystop in an itinerary of Benedictine Abbeys inthe Bolognese territory. Of Romanesque ori-gins (12th and 13th centuries), but rebuilt in the15th century, it is a church with three naves andan evocative cloister. It is worth noting the re-use, typically medieval, of ornamental mate-rial from previous ancient periods. Inside thereare the remains of a 16th-century fresco in theapse and the Madonna tra Santi painted in thelunette above the main door, which can bedated to the 16th century. The complex belongsto the Town Council, which intends to make itthe site of the Wine and Chestnut Museum.
In Mongiorgio, there are the last traces of amedieval castle and the 17th-century Church ofthe Saints Sigismondo and Pietro.
The territory boasts a long winemaking tradi-tion and these hills produce the greatestquantity of the “Vini dei Colli Bolognesi”.Ottone I, in 776, was already praising thesehills as producers of “…good wine to be imbi-bed only on glorious days…”. From the tracts ofAbbot Calindri, it appears that it was specifi-cally Monte San Pietro that determined theprice of grapes at the market in the city ofBologna. Monte San Pietro is a member of theNational Association of “Wine Cities”.
Monte San Pietro
DOC Colli Bolognesi vineyards
Private archive
The sky for everybodyThe Felsina Astronomical Observatory inCa’ Antinori is situated in a strategic posi-tion, dominating the whole mid-Bolo-gnese Apennines: towards the east, youcan make out the dome of the Astro-nomical Observatory of Loiano, while tothe south, the ten enormous blades of theMonte Galletto Wind Power Park are visi-ble and even the peak of Corno alle Scale.Run by the Bolognese “Associazione Atro-fici”, it is open to the public twice a monthfrom April to October, following an annualcalendar. Info: Biblioteca di Monte San Pietro (BO)Tel. 051.6764437info@associazioneastrofilibolognesi.itwww.associazioneastrofilibolognesi.it
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In Monte San Pietro since 1968, wine hasbeen celebrated at the beginning ofSeptember with the historical festival, theSagra del Vino dei Colli Bolognesi in Piazzadella Pace in Calderino, organized by thelocal Pro Loco (Tourist Office). During thefestival, the local producers offer visitorsthe chance to try their wines and there arealso stands offering other comestible spe-cialities of the area: honey, cheese, conser-ved vegetables and salami. On the secondSunday of September, still in these hills inSan Martino in Casola, there is the Mostraassaggio dei vini dei Colli Bolognesi: severalevenings of wine-tasting with a range ofover a hundred labels made available toexperts and wine-lovers.
Events Science and Technique
Great importance is also given to the cultiva-tion of chestnuts, spread in the highest areas ofthe territory like the extensive chestnutorchards of Monte Pastore, ancient posses-sion of Matilde di Canossa (notable for thechurch and the medieval tower). The excellentfarming results in great quantities of the typical“marroni” of the area, famous for their excel-lent quality. Monte San Pietro is a member ofthe National Association of “Chestnut Cities”.
Calanchi (gullies)
Photo by Comune di Monte San Pietro
DOC Colli Bolognesi Wines The hilly territory between the Reno andSamoggia makes the wines of the mostvaried Denomination of Controlled Ori-gin (D.O.C.) in Italy, so much so that thereare indications of the various sub-zones:Colli Bolognesi, Monte San Pietro, CastelliMedioevali. In this area, you can findBarbera, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, PinotBianco, Riesling Italico and Sauvi-gnon. Butthe most famous variety is undoubtedlyPignoletto, an autochthonous vine resul-
ting in a wine with delicate bouquet, fruity,intense, with notes of hawthorn flowersand a dry flavour, the perfect accompani-ment to the traditional tortellini in brothand mortadella. Among the other wines,there are excellent Pinot Bianco andSauvignon wines among the whites, Bar-bera and Cabernet Sauvignon among thereds.CONSORZIO VINI COLLI BOLOGNESIVia Abbazia 30/c - 40050 Monteveglio (BO)Tel. 051.6707752 - [email protected]
Gastronomy and Wine
Around Venezia a Monte San Giovanni andPradalbino, on the borders of the Crespellanoarea, the countryside has a strange, atmosphe-ric element - the “calanchi”.
The “calanchi” are a particular morphologi-cal form of clay, very common in theApennines of Emilia-Romagna, so much sothat the term “calanco” is a corruption ofthe Bolognese dialect name. They are theresult of erosion processes of the clay lan-dscape, created by the action of rain andwind, favoured by the alternating rainy anddry periods. The “calanchi” create an extre-me environment in which arcs and crests ofvarious shapes alternate with gullies that areoften very deep; the vegetation is prevalen-tly herbaceous species, flowering in springor autumn. These areas, being open and fullof climbing air-currents, are ideal for theflight and hunting patrols of numerous birdsof prey, such as buzzards, easy to spot in thehottest parts of the day, and harriers.
Nature
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Herb Convention: first Sunday of JuneHerb and Antique Market: every Thursday in July and AugustCalderino Festival - Festival of San Cristoforo- Summer Black Truffle Festival: last Sunday of JulyCalici di Stelle (Goblets of stars): the night of San Lorenzo
MontepastoreRoast Chestnut Festival: third Sunday of October
MARKET DAY: Thursday
Events
Sabadoni. The pastry of sabadoni is madefrom flour, eggs, sugar, a drop of extra-vir-gin olive oil, brandy, yeast (in the past, bi-carbonate of soda was used), lemon zestand a pinch of salt. It is rolled out into she-ets and cut into rectangles. For the filling,chestnuts are boiled and then passedthrough a sieve, then this purée is mixedwith “mostarda Bolognese” (a fruit conser-ve). A spoonful is placed in the middle ofthe pastry rectangles and closed in by ano-ther rectangle. Having pressed down theedges, the sabadoni are fried in lard. Oncethe fat has been absorbed on kitchentowels, they are left to cool down, thenbrushed with “saba” (cooked must), dilutedwith a drop of the cooking water from thechestnuts used in the filling. Mostarda Bolognese is a delicious jam ofmixed fruit, usually cherries and plums,used, as well as in sabadoni, for filling thePinza (a typical Christmas sweet in theApennines and Bolognese countryside) andRaviole (the traditional sweets of San Giu-seppe).
Gastronomy and Wine
Land of Motors - The Nigelli CollectionThe passion for mechanics of BrunoNigelli has led to a private collection ofgreat value: over 300 motorbikes, withclassic, and in some cases unique exam-ples, tell the story of motorcycling inBologna, whose 85 constructors representa situation that is unique in the world. TheBolognese brilliance for motorbikes hasalso had a profound effect on the econo-my, leading to the creation of a series ofcompanies specializing in mechanical pre-cision components, among which NIFO,whose premises house the collection.Visits by appointment:THE NIGELLI COLLECTION NIFO S.r.l Via Giuseppe Venturi, 3San Martino in Casola, 40050 Monte San Pietro (BO) - Tel. [email protected] - www.nifo.it
Museums - Science and Technique
Bologna Golf ClubOne of the historical Italian courses, desi-gned by Cotton & Harris and created in1959, it is situated 12 kilometres fromBologna on lovely hilly landscape withbeautiful vistas of the surrounding hills andthe plains. Constantly updated, the coursehas hosted the Italian Amateur Champion-ships several times in the last few years, aswell as numerous professional competi-tions. The sober, elegant Club House is theideal place to try the menu of the PrivateRestaurant, which has been included seve-ral times in the 10 best Italian ClubRestaurants. The beautiful open-air swim-ming pool and a well-equipped kids’ cor-ner complete the Club’s offer. In 2000,there were some modifications to thecourse by Peter Alliss.Technical data: 18 holes, par 72, 5,949 mts,116 mts a.s.l. Info: via Sabattini, 69 - Monte San Pietro (BO)Tel. 051.969100 - Fax [email protected]
Sport and Active Tourism
MM Motorbikes
Photo by Nigelli Collection
There is no lack of opportunities to take partin the sporting reality of the area: as a specta-tor in a visit to the precious Nigelli collectionof motorbikes, or actively at the prestigiousGolf Club.
The wine and gastronomical specialities, apartfrom wine and chestnuts, also include cher-ries, plums, honey, mushrooms, salami and cre-scentine (crumbly fried savoury pastries).
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Tourist ItineraryThe itinerary to discover the“Terre d’Acqua” (Water Lands) ofthe Samoggia plain spreads outfrom the “Persicetana” highway,connecting Bologna to the statehighway for Verona.
The “Terre d’Acqua” (Water Lands)- Anzola dell’Emilia- Calderara di Reno- Sala Bolognese- San Giovanni in Persiceto- Sant’Agata Bolognese- Crevalcore
Lamborghini in Sant’Agata BologneseThe Romanesque Parish Church of Sala BologneseThe historical centres of San Giovanni in Persiceto and CrevalcoreThe “castles” of CrevalcoreThe World’s Smallest Puppet Museum in CrevalcoreThe Dosolo Basin and the Water-Pumping Plant of BagnettoVilla Caprara and the sites of Santa Clelia Barbieri at Le BudrieThe cycling routes between San Giovanni and CrevalcoreThe Memorial Stone of the Second Triumvirate and the Rotundaof SacernoThe Persiceto CarnivalThe traditional Melons and Watermelons of San Matteo della Decima
Not to be missed:
The Samoggia Valleythe plain
Crevalcore
Sant’Agata
Bolognese
San Giovanni
Sala Bolognese
in Persiceto
Anzola
dell’Emilia
Calderara di Reno
History and EnvironmentThe second part of the itinerary along theSamoggia Valley leads to the discovery of arich plain, already referred to as “highly opu-lent” in Roman times. These are the “WaterLands” of the Province of Bologna, a territorycrossed by the Samoggia, between twoimportant rivers, the Reno and Panaro. The vast flow of the water courses has alwaysbeen both the greatest resource and the mostfearful threat for these lands. The naturalparks and wet zones of the Dosolo and Bora,together with the majestic water-pumpingplant of Bagnetto, tell the story of the diffi-culties of living between earth and water, andare an extraordinary open-air museum whereyou can discover the flora and fauna in what is today a protected habitat.Historically disputed between Modena andBologna, controlled by the powerful Abbeyof Nonantola and an antique land of the agra-rian “Partecipanza”, the western Bologneseplain differs from other intensely cultivatedareas of the Padana (Northern) Valley, havingscattered ancient farmhouses, churches andoratories.Other distinctive features are the “castles” ofCrevalcore and San Giovanni in Persiceto,dating back to the golden age of Bolognesepatronage. A land of historical singers andpuppeteers, the best tradition of Carnivalcomes back to life every year, with the cha-racters Bertoldo and Bertoldino as protago-nists. Even among the signs of more recentindustrialisation, there are numerous occa-sions to make interesting discoveries. Lam-borghini, the legendary automobile producer,is based in Sant’Agata Bolognese and a visit toits Museum is obligatory in any ideal itineraryin the “Land of Motors”.
Buon appetito The territory’s cooking offers all the speciali-ties of the best Bolognese tradition while alsobeing influenced by the neighbouring Provin-ce of Modena. As evidence, besides the DOCWines of the Reno, Lambrusco is common, aswell as specialities such as Zampone (pig’strotter) and Cotechino (pork sausage). Amongthe sweets, you must try “Africanetti” and“Savoiardi di Persiceto”, egg traditionalbiscuits from San Giovanni in Persiceto. Thereare also two agricultural products worthnoting: the Traditional Melons and Water-melons of San Matteo della Decima, centralto a festival in July.
How to get there- A14 Motorway: exit Borgo Panigale- Roads: State highway SS 568 towards Verona
State Highway SS 9 “Via Emilia” towards Modena
- Railway line Bologna-Verona-Brennero:stations in Osteria Nuova, San Giovanniin Persiceto, Crevalcore.
- Railway line Bologna-Milano:stations in Lavino, Anzola dell’Emilia, Samoggia
- Buses ATC www.atc.bo.it
Anzola dell’Emilia - URP (Public Relations Office)Piazza Giovanni XXIII, 1 - 40011 Anzola dell’Emila(BO)Tel. 051.6502111 - [email protected]
Calderara di Reno - URP (Public Relations Office)P.zza G. Marconi, 7- 40012 Calderara di Reno (BO)Tel. [email protected]
Sala Bolognese - URP (Public Relations Office)P.zza G. Marconi, 1 - 40010 Sala Bolognese (BO)Tel. [email protected]
San Giovanni in Persiceto - URP (Public RelationsOffice)Corso Italia, 7840017 San Giovanni in Persiceto (BO)Tel. 800.069678 - [email protected]
Sant’Agata Bolognese - Cultural OfficeVia 2 Agosto 1980, 11840019 Sant’Agata Bolognese (BO)Tel. [email protected]
Crevalcore - URP (Public Relations Office)Via Matteotti, 213 - 40014 CrevalcoreTel. 051.988443 - [email protected]
Tourist Information
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Our first stop on the Samoggia plain is Anzo-la, where there is the Tower of Re Enzo, theonly remaining evidence of the ancient castleof the Lords of these lands.
In Anzola, there is also some of the mostancient parish churches of the Province. It isworth visiting the Abbey of Santa Maria inStrada in over a thousand years of history.While in the county town there is the Churchof Saints Peter and Paul, whose medievalorigins can be seen in the 13th-century font.Rebuilt from the 17th century onwards, it hou-ses works by Spisanelli and Guardassoni.
But the history of this territory goes back wellbefore the medieval wars and parish chur-ches. Anzola dell’Emilia has a surprise for us: a prehistoric border village.
Anzola dell’Emilia
Re Enzo and the Tower of Anzola“In Anzola, the 13th century torre di ReEnzo (Tower of King Enzo) recalls the warbetween the Communes and EmperorFrederick II. The Bolognese won a signifi-cant victory over the Imperial forces atFossalta (1249), in the outskirts of Modenaand were able to take the Emperor’s son,Prince Enzo, prisoner. He was entrusted tothe Lord of the castle of Anzola, countMichele degli Orsi. The tower where hewas held is named after him and is one ofthe few remains of the original castle.Subsequently Enzo was moved to theattractive palace in the centre of Bologna,which also how bears his name. It cannothave been a particularly hard imprison-ment since the Lord of Anzola became agood friends with the young monarch andtried to help him escape inside a pannier.”
Renzo Renzi
Anzola before Emilia: the “Terramare” villagesThe “Terramare” are ancient villages of pile -dwellings from the Bronze Age (16-13th centu-ry BC), typical of west-central Emilia. Theyare villages constructed following a well-defined plan: quadrangular, they are foundon dry land, but always near water, whichserved as protection for the settlements.The “Terramare” of Anzola stood on thewestern limit of the inhabited area: the exca-vations, still ongoing, suggest that Anzolawas in fact a border post, as confirmed bythe material remains of the culture that havebeen found, revealing a close relationshipwith the geographical areas to the south-east of Anzola, which in the same period sawthe flowering of a different type of settle-ment, more similar to Apennine models.
History and Culture
History and Culture
Spring Festival, horse show, vintage carand motorbike rally: MayAnzola Fair: JuneSanta Maria Street Festival: SeptemberAnzola Festival, as part of the series“Historical War games - Playing with history”: first Sunday of October
MARKET DAY: Saturday
Events
Tower of Re Enzo
Photo by Provincia di Bologna
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Calderara stretches along the left bank of theReno, at the centre of a territory alreadyoccupied by the Romans at the time of theRepublic. Archaeological remains from theRoman period, found during excavations ofancient farmhouses and wells in the area, arenow collected in the public library.
In 43BC, a momentous event in history hap-pened here. Sacerno is indicated as the sitewhere, after the death of Julius Caesar,Octavian, Mark Anthony and Lepidus dividedup the Roman world with the SecondTriumvirate. The site is today indicated by aBaroque-period column on the banks of theRiver Lavino. The importance of Sacerno,however, dates back to even more ancienttimes.Also known in the past as Mezzomondo, upto the 16th century the area was known as SanChierno, a name deriving from the CelticKernunnos, the horned god associated withrivers and the centre of the world. In theChristian era, in the 8th century, the nearbyproto-romantic rotunda of Sant’Elena was built to consecrate a site that had alreadybeen sacred to other cults. The remains of theancient Church are now part of the highly ori-ginal bell-tower of the successive Benedictineparish church.
Among the beautiful villas and country hou-ses in the territory, of particular note are VillaTanara (17th century) and Villa Donini, with apark created at the end of the 19th century bythe Count of Sambuy, responsible for VillaMagnani in Zola Predosa as well. Also worth visiting is the complex of theChurch of San Vitale in Longara, the summerresidence of Cardinal Lambertini, later to be-come Pope Benedict XIV.
In Tavernelle Emilia, it is impossible not tonote the large, and now precarious, mass ofVilla Paleotti Spalletti, the rear of whichfaces onto the Persicetana highway. Built inthe 17th century by the Paleotti family, in 1682it passed into the hands of the traders, theZagnoni, who obtained permission to use thelawn in front of the villa for an important fairin September.
Calderara di Reno
The Calderara Week: in May and in JuneDinner of the 14th AugustLippo Festival: SeptemberFestival of ancient flavours: October
MARKET DAY: Monday
Events
Memorial stone of the Second Triunvirate
Photo by Provincia di Bologna
In the“Golena di San Vitale”, near the fordon the Reno, you can visit a woody areaundergoing ecological restructuring.
Info and guided visits: Monday to Friday.Tel. 051.6871051
Nature
Calderara di Reno is a member of theNational Association of “Wine Cities”.
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The Romanesque Parish Churchof Santa MariaAnnunziata and San Biagio alone makes a visit toSala Bolognese worthwhile. The basilica datesback to 1096 and was restored to its originalform in 1920. Its Romanesque-Lombard architec-tural style is a unique example this side of theRiver Panaro, a natural border which for centu-ries separated the western part of the regionfrom the eastern with its Lombard influences.
By bicycle, it is possible to visit the numeroussmall villages, churches and villas spread aroundthe countryside, or reach the banks of the Renoand Samoggia Rivers. Among ruins surroundedby elms and white willows, if you keep youreyes open, perhaps with the help of a good pairof binoculars and some plant and animal han-dbooks, you can spot many interesting exam-ples of flora and fauna.
In the village of Bagno di Piano, there are manythings to visit. The 16th-century Church of SanMichele Arcangelo contains two importantpaintings attributed to Crespi and Francia,around which the mysteries of the rosary of theSchool of Carracci are arranged.
Palazzo Zambeccari (Il Conte) is a beautiful 16th-century building, with the traditional four angu-lar towers. A two-flight staircase leads inside,where traces of fresco decorations are still visi-ble. In Villa Minelli, it is worth noting the tower,courtyard and the small 18th-century chapel.
Sala Bolognese
A short guide for a visit to the Roma-nesque Parish Church of Sala Bolognese.The parish church has a beautiful façade,characterized by a mullioned window with acubic capital, embellished by Byzantine car-vings. At the sides of the entrance, there aretwo memorial stones: the olderrecalls the construction of theChurch in 1096 on the remainsof a PalaeoChristian temple, andthe other, more modern, therestoration carried out in 1920.At the back, the major apse isthe best preserved of the three and is embel-lished by a 12th-century blind gallery, the mostinteresting architectural element of the buil-ding. It is in fact the only such example in aRomanesque building in the Province ofBologna. On the right-hand side, there is thebell-tower, built in 1926, with a chapel dedi-cated to the Fallen of the two World Wars.
The interior of the church follows the layoutof a basilica, with three naves divided bycolumns with unadorned selenite capitals. Alarge central staircase leads to the presbyte-ry, where there is the high altar. On the surfa-ce of the altar, there is the carved head of apagan divinity with ram’s horns, perhaps a
representation of the Celtic godKernunnos. This pagan altar, whichbecame Christia with an exorcismof a cross carved into the stone,documents the end of the paganperiod and the passage to Chri-stianity of the ancient population
of the area. A notable element is the sealwith the eagle of the Svevi Empire on theparapet of the pulpit. The crypt below thepresbytery, mostly restored, is undoubtedlythe most atmospheric part of the basilica.Near the entrance, an ancient immersion-bath for baptisms in red marble from Veronais preserved.
History and Culture
Palazzo Zambeccari (Il Conte)
Photo by Comune di Sala Bolognese
Not to be missed is a visit to the water-pum-ping plant of Bagnetto, which together withthe nearby area of ecological restructuring inthe Dosolo Basin, is one of the major landreclamation works and hydraulic systems tohave permitted cultivation and settlement inthis area, once extremely swampy.
In Osteria Nuova, we come to Villa Terracini(18th century), a typical country house of theplains: in its extensive park, there is a lovelyexample of a “conserva”, a sort of natural lar-der-fridge in use until last century.
The Dosolo Flood-BasinBuilt in 1931 to hold the floodwater from theDosolo canal, the basin contains land thatwas until recently cultivated, despite theobvious limitations caused by the frequentflooding. Since 1991, the area has been given over togreater environmental aims. Various workshave created a wide-ranging variety of natu-ral environments, with alternating woods,meadows and wet zones, allowing develop-ment of typical swampland flora and fauna.The wet zones, covering 5.5 hectares, arenow under ecological restructuring.
The Water-Pumping Plant of BagnettoNear the confluence of the Samoggia andReno, there is the water-pumping plant ofBagnetto. This beautiful building houses theinstruments which control the majority ofthe surface water in the territory, allowingthe introduction of water from the “AcqueBasse” Canal manifold into the Reno. Theplant was built in 1925, with an architecturalstyle similar to a massive medieval fort andwas further developed in the eighties.THE WATER ECO-MUSEUMVia Zaccarelli 16 - Padulle 40010 Sala BologneseInfo and visits: Tel. 348.0119208 [email protected] times: Thursday and Sunday2.30pm-5pm. Free entrance.
Nature Science and Technique - Museums
The Sala Festival: JunePuppet-Theatres in parks and gardens,puppet Shows: in July and in AaugustVerso Ovest (Towards the West), musical events: JulyMedieval Evenings: end of August and SeptemberSummer of San Martino, events linked to rural culture: November
MARKET DAY: Friday in Padulle, Monday in Osteria Nuova
Events
Visit at the Dosolo Flood-Basin
Photo by Consorzio Bonifica Reno-Palata
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Water-Pumping of Bagnetto
Photo by Consorzio Bonifica Reno-Palata
the Bentivoglio family. Modified several times,it is still today used as a municipal residence.Next door, there is the Communal Theatre,inaugurated in 1790.
The town of San Giovanni in Persiceto, homeof the carnival and character of Bertoldo, isnotable for its large medieval historical centrewith its original concentric layout.
The particular form of the old town centre, cal-led Borgo Rotondo, perhaps dates back as faras the Lombard period. The Abbey of Nonan-tola used to hold power over the territory ofPersiceto, until the 9th century when some of itbecame part of the Bolognese territory. It wasin that period that the first concessions weregranted to the local population by the Abbotsof Nonantola and the Bolognese Bishops ofvast tracts of uncultivated and swampy land forreclamation. These lands became the basis ofthe future agrarian “Partecipanza” (page 190). Aswell as in the county town, the Consortium ofParticipants of San Giovanni in Persiceto has aseat in the village of San Matteo della Decima:the Ca’ Granda, a building that is available forcultural events.
In the central square, the Piazza del Popolo,there is the Collegiate Church of San Giovan-ni Battista, whose construction began in 1671,designed by Paolo Emilio Canali, with a 19th-century façade. In the Baroque interior, amongrich 18th-century stuccoes which have recentlybeen restored to their original splendour, the-re are paintings by the main exponents ofBolognese painting from the 16th to the 19th
century: Guercino, Albani, Gandolfi and Guar-dassoni.
Opposite the Collegiate Church, there is thePalazzo Comunale (Town Hall), of 15th-centu-ry origin, with its highly particular 18th-centurystaircase by the architect Giuseppe Tubertini.The construction of this vast building in thelate 15th century, was due to the dominion of
San Giovanni in Persiceto
Communal Theatre
Photo by Comune di San Giovanni in Persiceto
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The theatre was built in 1786 by the archi-tect Giuseppe Tubertini. The present atrium,decorated with two plaster statues of Alfieriand Goldoni, dates back to 1850. A few yearslater, the ceiling of the stalls was paintedwith chiaroscuro motifs by the famousdecorative artist Andrea Pesci (also respon-sible for decorating the buildings of PalazziMalvasia, Malvezzi, Paleotti and Simonetti inBologna) and his young student GaetanoLodi. In 1860, the renovated theatre wasinaugurated with a production of GiuseppeVerdi’s Rigoletto. The interior still has thecomplete 18th-century structure: particularlyeffective is the beautiful proscenium withtwo tall golden Corinthian columns crow-ned by an elegant trabeation. Used as a grainstore during the First World War, then tur-ned into a cinema and damaged in theSecond World War, it has now been resto-red to its complete original splendour.Today it hosts shows, concerts, conventionsand conferences.
The Politeama Communal Theatre
Giulio Cesare CroceGiulio Cesare Croce is the creator ofBertoldo, the coarse but quick-witted pea-sant central to the work “Le sottilissimeastuzie di Bertoldo”, telling of his adventuresas he uses his ingenuity to reach the courtof King Alboino, where he dies because hecannot eat “beans with onions and turnipscooked in ashes”. A historical singer-son-gwriter and author of well-known popularpoetry in Italian and Bolognese dialect, athis death he left a total of 478 books, ofwhich about 300 still exist. He was theauthor of burlesque compositions, trage-dies, poems, operettas, comedies and far-ces, many of which recall the Commediadell’Arte and the atmosphere of carnival.
Historical Carnival The carnival takes place on the last twoSundays before Lent and its traditional cha-racter is called Bertoldo. As well as boastinga centuries-old tradition, this carnival, likethe one in Decima, has a unique element:the “Spillo”, "Spél” in Bolognese dialect,meaning “transformation”.During the first Sunday of fancy dress pro-cessions, allegorical floats parade throughthe centre until they reach the town square,where the “spillo” happens: the multicolou-red architectural structures are spectacular-ly transformed, revealing the real allegoricalmeaning of the constructions. The floats areentirely created by local carnival societies,who spend the months leading up toCarnival working with tireless dedication intheir respective workshops, keeping thethemes and features of their creations abso-lutely secret. On the second Sunday, the flo-ats are judged by a jury which awards a clothshowing Bertoldo and Bertoldino with theirdonkey.
Culture and Famous Names Events
Piazza del Popolo
Photo by Comune di San Giovanni in Persiceto - Fabio Fantuzzi
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In Piazza Garibaldi, there is the Church of theMadonna della Cintura (1574-1603), designedby Alfonso Lombardi, with an Oratory attachedin 1712. The walnut-wood choir is magnificent.
Next door to the Church, the Palazzo SS.Salvatore, built in the 18th century by GiuseppeCivoli, was used as a hospital until last century.Now it houses the communal historical archiveand the “G. C. Croce” Communal Library, whichcontains important collections donated by thelocal citizens Alberto Bergamini, founder of the“Giornale d’Italia”, and the great religious histo-rian Raffaele Pettazzoni.
However, the oldest building in San Giovanniis the Palazzaccio or Casa dell’Abate (Abbot’sHouse) in Via Gramsci, with its particular highportico and oak columns. The building datesback to the 13th-14th centuries and was used tostore tithes for the Abbey of Nonantola.
Then, in Piazza Carducci, there is the medievalConvent Complex of San Francesco, withatmospheric cloisters and a room with aninteresting fresco showing the Last Supper(visits by appointment).
Near San Matteo della Decima, a few kilome-tres from Cento, it is worth visiting VillaGiovannina, built in 1504 on a design bySebastiano Serlio for Giovanni II Bentivoglio.The battlements of its towers are an intere-sting example of the passage from medievalcastle to noble residence. The land on whichthe villa-castle was built was given to theBentivoglio family by the people of Persicetoas thanks for the excavation of the “Cavamen-to”, a water manifold which made it possibleto farm and live in vast areas of the territorytowards Crevalcore. Inside the villa, there arefrescoe attributed to Guercino, carried outbetween 1617 and 1632. It was for this castlethat the Guercino also painted the famousAldrovandi Dog, commissioned by his friendFilippo Aldrovandi and today exhibited inmuseum in Pasadena, California.
In the village of Le Budrie, the Bolognese SaintClelia Barbieri lived and died. She was the foun-der of the religious order, the “Suore Minimedell’Addolorata”, and was canonized on the 9th
April 1989 by John Paul II. The reliquaries of theSaint are kept in the Oratory of San Giuseppe.Also in Le Budrie, it is worth visiting the impo-sing structure of Villa Caprara, built near thebanks of the Samoggia. A grand country resi-dence of the powerful noble family, today ithouses the stables of the Orsi Mangelli.
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The 17th-century sacristy of the CollegiateChurch houses over 40 Bolognese paintingfrom the 16th to the 19th century (the “SanGiovanni Battista” by Francia, works byTiarini, Randa, A. L. Crespi, the Gandolfi bro-thers, Creti and Passerotti) and a collectionof liturgical objects: silverware from the 16th
to the 19th century, works in coral from the14th century with splendid miniatures byNicolò Di Giacomo, and sacred ornaments.MUSEUM OF SACRED ARTPiazza del Popolo, 2240017 San Giovanni in Persiceto (BO)Tel. 051.821254 - Fax 051.824151 Opening times: Sunday 9-12 am; every dayon request.Tickets: full price € 2.50, reductions € 1.50for under-18s, over-60s, schoolchildren andorganized groups.Free entrance for under 10s.
Museums
Piazzetta BetlemmeNot to be missed isthe fantastic Piaz-zetta Betlemme, re-named “La piazzettadegli inganni” (TheLittle Square of Tri-cks) due to its multi-coloured trompes-l’oeil by the famousset designer GinoPellegrini. Having justreturned from Holly-
wood, where he worked on such great filmsas “2001, A Space Odyssey”, “West Side Story”,“Guess Who’s Co-ming To Dinner” and“Mutiny On TheBounty”, Pellegriniimagined turningthis small square in-to a homage to ci-nema, and over thecourse of the years,painted various sce-nes combining reali-ty and imagination.
History and Culture
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Tivoli-Manzolino Basins The area includes a series of wet zones thatextend to the border of the provinces ofBologna and Modena. The Modena area ismade up of three great basins that serve tocontain the flooding of San Giovanni Canal.The second complex in the Bologna areaconsists of a series of lakes once used forraising goldfish. Within basins there is richmarsh vegetation with reed-beds providinga place of refuge and nesting ground formany species. Just outside Manzolino, wetake as reference point the abandoned millof Formagliaro with its long portico; thereyou can leave your car or bicycle, and alongthe canal, is a few meters to the observationtower on the chest expansion.A little later, in Via Grignani, there is asecond parking with a lot of informationsignals. Leave the car, you can reach thethree points of observation on the basins ofTivoli.Info and guided visits Vasche di Tivoli: Tel. 051.6871051Cassa di Manzolino: Tel. [email protected]@wwf.it
Museum of the Sky and the EarthThe Museum is divided into five sections: - the Astronomical Section contains the third
largest Planetarium in Italy, the AstronomicalObservatory, a meteoro logical station and amuseum with an important collection of meteorites;
- the Natural History Section contains the Botanical Garden, with about 300 species of woodland flora and shrubs from the region;
- the Naturalistic Section contains "La Bora", a 22-hectare Area of Environmental Restructuring, aimed at guaranteeing the survival, care and study of the native flora and fauna species. Among the winterinspecies over the last few years, cormorants have appea red. Among the Birds of Prey, there are buz zards, marsh harriers, sparrow hawks and owls. The area is equipped with trails, screened observation points and a hide;
- the Physics Section consists of a Technoscientific Laboratory which provides educational activities for schools;
- the Entomological Section is the most recentand houses the Insect Laboratory, a genuine living museum dedicated to direct observ-ation of insect life.
MUSEUM OF THE SKY AND THE EARTHAstronomical and Natural History Sections,V.lo Baciadonne, 1; Naturalistic and Entomo-logical Sections, Via Marzocchi, 16; PhysicsSection, Piazza Carducci, 9 40017 San Giovan-ni in Persiceto (BO)Tel./Fax [email protected]
Planetarium: opening during the eventsFriday at 9pm, Sunday at 3.30pm;Astronomical Observatory: Tuesday andFriday 9pm-11pm;Botanical Garden and “La Bora”: freeentrance every day during daytime;Technoscientific Laboratory: opening byappointment only for schools;Insect Laboratory: every Sunday at 4pm;Every Saturday and Sunday the 5 sectionsprovide educational activities for familiesand children for a fee.Tickets:Observatory, Botanical Garden and “LaBora” free entrance.Planetarium and Insect Laboratory full price€ 4,50, reductions € 3.
The museum illustrates the history anddevelopment of the territory between theRoman Era and the 16th century with nume-rous Roman remains (the result of recentarchaeological digging), fragments of et-ched kitchen and tableware ceramics fromthe second half of the 16th century, andmaterial from the archaeological site of anentire fortified village from the middle cen-turies of the Medieval period.
THE ARCHAEOLOGICALENVIRONMENTAL MUSEUM Porta Garibaldi, 40017 San Giovanni in Persiceto (BO)Tel. 051.6871757, Fax [email protected] times: Saturday closed, Sunday10-12am and 5-7pm, closed in August.Tickets: full price € 2, reductions € 1.
Nature
Museums - Science and TechniqueNature
Museums
In the itinerary there are places of great natu-ralistic interest, such as the Manzolino oasis,the Museum of the Sky and the Earth, and theArchaeological-Environmental Museum.
The Traditional Melons and Waterme-lons of San Matteo della DecimaOn the fertile Samoggia plain, the TraditionalMelons and Watermelons of San Matteo dellaDecima are cultivated. The melons and water-melons here have a special flavour, tastier butalso sweeter, thanks to the high potassiumcontent of the terrain. As far back as 1303, PierDe’ Crescenzi, founder of Bolognese agrono-my among other things, spoke of them in histreatise Ruralium Commodorum Libri XII,giving not only guidelines for cultivation, butsuggestions for different ways of eating them.Various documents going back to the early 20th
century are kept in the historical archives ofthe Consortium of Participants of SanGiovanni in Persiceto. The production territo-ry extends over an area of about 5,000 hecta-res in the lands of San Giovanni in Persiceto.
Gastronomy and Wine
A visit to the territory would not be comple-te without a tour through the flavours of theplain. In various places you can try the winesand typical dishes of Bolognese cooking,such as tortellini, lasagne, bollito (boiledmeat) and salami, as well as some specialitiesspecific to the Persiceto area, such as “Africa-netti” and “Savoiardi di Persiceto”, deliciousbiscuits made with eggs and sugar, conside-red to be among the most traditional alimen-tary products of the Emilia-Romagna region.
Gastronomy and Wine
Historical Carnival of Persiceto: last twoSundays before Lent.Arte&City, a great programme of culturalevents. During the last week-end, hundredsof street artists from all over the worldbring the historical centre to life with theirshows: from the end of June to the end ofSeptember.Fira di ai (Garlic Festival): second half of June.Autumn Fair: second half of September.
San Matteo della DecimaVècia (Old Woman), on the eve of theEpiphany in the countryside, large dummies,8-10 metres high, are built, portraying “LaBefana” (a witchlike figure associated withthe Epiphany), which are burnt at sunset inthe presence of a numerous public shouting“A brusa la Vècia” (“Burn the old woman”).Meanwhile the “Fcén” (little old people),groups of young and not-so-young people,dressed as old men and women, go fromhouse to house offering gifts and reciting“zirudelle” (nursery rhymes in dialect); inexchange they receive a small tip or some-thing to eat or drink: evening of January 5th.Historical Carnival, with the stock charac-ter of the King, “Re Fagiolo di Castella”: lasttwo Sundays before Lent.“La cucombra” - Festival of the Melonand Watermelon: early July.Un paese all’opera, an open-air operashow: the evening of the 14th August.Festone (Thanksgiving Festival): the second weekend of October.
Le BudrieFesta delle Spighe (ears of wheat): early June. Festival in honour of Santa CleliaBarbieri: 13th July
MARKET DAY: Wednesday, Friday in San Matteo della Decima
Events
Buskers
Photo by Comune di San Giovanni in Persiceto - Fabio Fantuzzi
Watermelons and Melons of San Matteo della Decima
Photo by Comune di San Giovanni in Persiceto
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Land of Motors - The Lamborghini MuseumThe Museum, housed inside the Lambor-ghini premises, has an exhibition of auto-mobiles bearing witness to the variousperiods of the company from the sixtiesto the present day: from the 350 GT seriesof 1963, the Diablo, the Miura of 1966, theCountach of 1973 to Formula One vehiclesand much more. The company’s history isalso illustrated, thanks to numerous pho-tographs, panels and models from all overthe world. Guided visits.LAMBORGHINI MUSEUMVia Modena, 1240019 Sant’Agata Bolognese (BO)[email protected] times: Monday to Friday, 10-12:30am and 1:30-5 pm. Tickets: full price € 12,reductions € 9. Free entrance for under12s. Visits by appointment.
Lamborghini Museum
Photo by Provincia di Bologna - Guido Avoni
Museums - Science and Technique
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Sant’Agata Bolognese is a lovely plains village,6 kilometres from San Giovanni in Persiceto, Known the world over for the automobileproducers, Lamborghini.
In the historical centre, you should not miss avisit to some of the most significant monu-ments in the Bolognese territory.
The Parish Church, as well as housing a portraitof Sant’Agata attributed to Guido Reni, con-tains the detached frescoes of the Oratory ofthe Holy Ghost, masterpieces of 16th-centuryart. Created around 1520 by artists of refinedRaffaello-esque style (the names of Nicolòdell’Abate and Bagnacavallo have been sugge-sted), the frescoes consist of life-size figures ofthe Redeemer and the Apostles. Connectedto Porta Otesia, the Oratory of the HolyGhost was built in 1473 by the homonymousreligious order. The Oratory is in two parts: thefirst is a sort of entrance hall in which thereare two altars dedicated to the Blessed Virginof Carmine and to San Antonio of Padova,with statues by the Bolognese sculptor FilippoScandellari. The second part is the Oratoryitself, where there is a precious wooden Choirand an altar piece depicting the descent of theHoly Ghost at the Last Supper. In 1905, the Oratory was declared a nationalmonument, as was the village tower. It can bevisited with prior booking.
Sant’Agata Bolognese
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The Bibiena Theatre is also very interesting,one of the territory’s small jewels.The distance from here to Modena is short andit is worthwhile continuing the itinerary in the“Land of Motors”, with at least a stop at theFerrari Gallery in Maranello and at Maserati,whose trademark symbol, Nep-tune’s trident,recalls the company’s Bolo-gnese origins.
A few kilometres from Sant’Agata, there isalso Nonantola and its Abbey, visiting whichmeans crossing once more into the territoryof Modena.
The Abbey of Nonantola was a big centreof European civilization since early MiddleAges when the Benedectine monks copiedin their “scriptorium” what was made fromculture of previus centuries, saving it fromfires and devastations of that years. “TheAbbey archive is an incredible source ofinformation and has some illuminatedmanuscripts. The town itself is also of inte-rest.”
Renzo Renzi
Festival of Sant’Agata: FebruaryMay Fair: last Sunday of MaySonica Bassa Music Festival: July
MARKET DAY: Thursday and the firstSunday of each month
Events
The origins of the theatre, which is housedin the town hall, date back to the end ofthe 18th century, even though it has nothingto do with the theatre of Sant’ Agata plan-ned by Ferdinando Galli Bibiena in 1718. Theinauguration of the theatre in its presentform took place on the 27th October 1888,with a production of Pipelet. It is namedafter the Bibiena family, who tradition dic-tates used to have a residence in Sant’Agataopposite the Oratory of the Holy Ghost.The main feature of this theatre is howsmall and intimate it is (only one hundredseats in elegant stalls), a characteristicwhich has led to the choice of particularlycultured activities.
Bibiena Theatre - Photo by Comune di Sant’Agata Bolognese
The Ferdinando Bibiena Theatre
History and Culture
The Archaeological Environmental MuseumSection of Sant'Agata Bolognese (page 45)Via Terragli a Ponente, 2 40019 - Sant'Agata Bolognese (BO) Tel. 051 6871757 - Fax 051 823305
Museums [email protected] Opening times: Sunday 10am-12pm. Closedin August. Visits by appointment Monday-Friday 10am-1pm e 3pm-6pm. Free entrance.
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The historical centre of Crevalcore still main-tains almost all of the original layout createdbetween the 18th and 19th centuries, in particu-lar regarding the buildings facing onto themain street.The visual effect is undoubtedly fascinating,so much so as to have provoked the enthu-siasm of the great art historian Francesco Ar-cangeli.
In the central square, a bronze sculpturedated 1897 commemorates Crevalcore’s mostfamous son, the scientist Marcello Malpighi.
In the Palazzo Comunale (Town Hall) thereare still some traces of work by the famousdecorative artist Gaetano Lodi. Here you canalso find the historical archive, containing theimportant “Cabrei”, historical maps belongingto the Pepoli family.
Crevalcore
Marcello Malpighi Born in Crevalcore, Malpighi studied Me-dicine in Bologna, where in 1655, he thentaught Logic. Called to Pisa by Ferdinando IIto take over the chair of Theory of Medi-cine, his ideas started to be influenced bythe thoughts of Galileo. Recalled to Bolo-gna in 1659 as lecturer in Theory of Extraor-dinary Medicine, in 1660 he then passed toordinary medicine. Nominated pontificalphysician to Pope Innocence XII, he movedto Rome in 1691, where he died three yearslater.His scientific activities, aimed in particularat microscopic anatomy, led him to investi-gate the human body in a scientific manner.For his international fame, the Royal Societyin London made him an honorary memberin 1669. In 1686-1687, his Opera Omnia waspublished in London in 2 volumes with 122plates etched in copper.
Culture and Famous Names Piazza Malpighi
Photo by Provincia di Bologna
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THE LEO PRETI PUPPET MUSEUM Via della Rocca, 2 - 40014 Crevalcore (BO)Tel. 051.6800834 - Fax [email protected] “World’s Smallest Puppet Museum” con-tains over a hundred characters: devils, ani-mals, wizards, witches, fairies and ladies, crea-ted by the local puppeteer from Crevalcore,Leo Preti, as well as a rich collection of back-drops. It is open periodically and with priorbooking. Free entrance and guided visits.
Museums
Puppet Museum
Photo by Provincia di Bologna - Guido Avoni
Communal Theatre
Photo by Provincia di Bologna
Puppets are strongly linked to the traditions ofthese lands and to the commedia dell’arte, andCrevalcore has dedicated a museum to them.
As with San Giovanni and Sant’AgataBolognese, it is worth visiting the historicalCommunal Theatre, inaugurated in 1881.
The history of Crevalcore’s ancient theatre,planned by Giacomo Monari, a student ofFerdinando Galli Bibiena, is linked to theactivities of the “Accademia degli Indiffe-renti Risoluti” (1648). When the old theatrewas demolished in 1874, a new one wascreated. The decoration was entrusted tothe local Crevalcore artist, Gaetano Lodi,the talented decorative artist to the Courtof Savoia, who achieved international famefor his decorations in the foyer of the ParisOpera and in the Khedive’s Palace in Cairo.For the theatre’s interior, which still existstoday, Lodi created a flame-red floral com-position in oriental style, which spreadsthrough the whole theatre, achieving itsgreatest effect on the ceiling. The curtain,created to look like an ancient tapestry,shows Marcello Malpighi at the court of theGrand Duke Ferdinando II of Tuscany. Thetheatre was inaugurated on the 3rd Septem-ber 1881 with Verdi’s Il Trovatore. In 1906,with the arrival of socialists in charge oflocal government, the theatre began to hostpolitical and social events, provoking thewrath of the owners of the theatre’s boxes.During the Second World War, the Germansturned it into a field hospital. Today it has a rich theatrical calendar and isavailable for other events.
Communal Theatre
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corners, it was built by Count OnofrioBevilacqua in the second half of the 16th cen-tury. The Bolognina Church is notable for thepaintings of Simone Cantarini and ElisabettaSirani.
The complex of Villa Ronchi, in an area of thesame name, is composed of a 16th-centurynoble house and an elegant 18th-centurychurch with an elliptical layout. Restorationwork on the frescoes in the noble house haveconfirmed the presence of the hand of the 18-year-old Agostino Carracci. Today the villa isan exhibition and cultural centre belongingto the local council. A few kilometres awaystands the Oratory known as La Rotonda,commissioned by Maria Vittoria Caprara as anex voto and built between 1765 and 1768 bythe architect Fancelli, a student of Dotti.
Setting off from the centre of Crevalcore,by bicycle or on foot for serious walkers,visitors can reach the most relevant sitesfrom the point of view of the territory’shistory and environmental qualities, gui-ded by precise and detailed signs. Alongthe route, there are plaques describing thehistory of the sites (churches, castles,historic buildings), displays describing thenatural elements (Areas of EnvironmentalRestructuring, mills, ponds, hedges, etc.), aswell as informative signs about the territo-ry’s farms (many of them open for directsale of their biological and high-qualityproduce). The route is also equipped witha picnic area near the interesting area ofEnvironmental Restructuring, the “VascheEx Zuccherificio” (the ponds of an ex-sugar processing plant), complete withwooden benches and tables. The project isfinanced by Emilia-Romagna Region andthe Town Councils of Crevalcore.Info: Tel. 051.6871051
Nature
Carnival: February/MarchFlower Festival: end of MarchFiera del Carmine, agricultural, industrialand commercial fair: JulyL'800 ai Ronchi, The Resurgence: end of JulyIl Fierone, a public feast, along the town’smain street: September.Ronchi Festival, Hamlet Bolognina:SeptemberFestival of first cours: SeptemberAutumn Festival: OctoberMARKET DAY: Tuesday
Events
The Castle of Palata Pepoli was built undercommission from Count Filippo Pepoliaround 1540. It has a notable porticoedcourtyard. The building has elements ofsevere elegance which reveal its relationshipto contemporary buildings in Bologna andFerrara. All the property of the Pepoli family,including the Castle, were given over to theTorlonia princes in the mid-20th century. Ofthe original interior decoration, there remainonly the beautiful doors in soft wood, varni-shed with rococo motifs.
The Parish Church of Palata Pepoli containsa collection of paintings from the Bologneseschool from the 16th to 18th century, withworks by Francesco Gessi, Alessandro Tiarini,Giovan Battista Ramenghi, Ercole Grazianiand Bartolomeo Passerotti.
The Castle of Galeazza Pepoli has its ori-gins in an imposing 16th-century tower builtby Galeazzo Pepoli. Towards the end of thecentury, a villa was constructed around thetower. Then, around 1870, it was redevelo-ped in neo-medieval style.In the Galeazza Church, there are theremains of theBlessed Don Ferdinando MariaBaccilieri, founder of the adjoining conventwhich, since 1862, has housed the Congre-gation of the Servants of Maria. In the con-vent, there is also an interesting museumdedicated to its founder.
The Palazzo Bevilacqua Ariosti is a typicalBolognese noble house. A powerful buildingwith two tower-shaped avant-corps at the
Just as interesting as the historical centre ofCrevalcore is its vast territory, scattered withextraordinary country villas, here called“castles”: Ronchi, Palata Pepoli, GaleazzaPepoli and Bevilacqua.
THE GUIDO MATTIOLI PEACE MUSEUMVia XXV Aprile, 85 - 40014 Crevalcore (BO)Tel. 051.6800834 - Fax [email protected] museum houses a collection of relicsfrom the First World War, given to the towncouncil by the collector Guido Mattioli,who had painstakingly gathered them inthe area of Carso.It is open periodically and with prior boo-king. Free entrance and guided visits.
Museums
