Used Bike Inspection Doc

8/7/2019 Used Bike Inspection Doc

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QUALIFICATION PROTOCOL

PROTOCOL NO. IQ.OQ.PQ.001.00

INSTALLATION, OPERATIONAL AND

PERFORMANCE QUALIFICATION OFUSED BIKES


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IQ/OQ/PQ for Used Bikes

Protocol No.: IQ.OQ.PQ.001.00

TABLE OF CONTENTS

SECTION 1: Terms of agreement .......................................................................................................... 31.1 TERMS ................................................................................................................................................................... 3

SECTION 2: Helpful diagrams ............................................................................................................... 42.1 DIAGRAMS TO HELP YOU LOCATE COMPONENTS........................................................................................................ 4

SECTION 3:

INTRODUCTION ................................................................................................................. 8

3.1 PURPOSE ............................................................................................................................................................ 83.2 SCOPE ................................................................................................................................................................. 8

SECTION 4: General Specifications ...................................................................................................... 9SECTION 5: Overall Appearance ......................................................................................................... 10SECTION 6: Crash History ................................................................................................................... 11SECTION 7: Racing or Abusive Care .................................................................................................. 13SECTION 8: Brakes .............................................................................................................................. 15SECTION 9: Clutch ............................................................................................................................... 17SECTION 10: Gas Tank .......................................................................................................................... 18SECTION 11: Seating ............................................................................................................................. 18SECTION 12: Tires .................................................................................................................................. 19SECTION 13: Electrical and Battery ...................................................................................................... 20SECTION 14: Suspension ...................................................................................................................... 21SECTION 15: Wheels .............................................................................................................................. 23SECTION 16 Ch i /S k t 24


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SECTION 1: TERMS OF AGREEMENT

1.1 Terms

This document was prepared by Lambda Consulting based on information from various sources. The

majority of information was taken from the Used Motorcycle Evaluation Guide, by Adam Glass (1998-

2010). The author of this document does not take credit for any information but has organized and compiled

information into a usable media for consumers interested in purchasing a used motorcycle. This document

is not for sale and is free for distribution with due credit. If there are any suggestions please email the author

[email protected].

The author takes no responsibility for the decisions made by a consumer based on the inspections

performed in this document. This document is not a legal document, nor does it replace an inspection by a

certified mechanic; this document is merely used to provide more insight into the condition of a motorcycle

for an inexperienced motorcycle buyer. The buyer is responsible for researching the specific bike model to

learn of any manufacturing defects or short-comings. The intent of this document is not to help choose a

motorcycle, but to help gauge the condition of a previously owned bike for purchase.
mailto:[email protected]:[email protected]:[email protected]:[email protected]


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SECTION 2: HELPFUL DIAGRAMS

2.1 Diagrams to help you locate components


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SECTION 3: INTRODUCTION

3.1 PURPOSE

3.1.1 The purpose of this document is to help consumers who are purchasing a used motorcycle tobe able to conduct a low-level inspection to more accurately gauge the vehicles condition.

3.2 SCOPE

3.2.1 The following is a list of the contents included in this qualification:

i. General information: Record general motorcycle specifications

ii. Overall Appearance: Check for cleanliness and straightness.

iii. Crash history: Look for notifications or clues for crashes.

iv. Racing or abusive care: Look for notifications or clues that the motorcycle has beenraced or abused. Racing puts tremendous stress on the machinery and accelerateswear.

v. Brakes: Ensure condition of brakes and ancillary components are in good condition.

vi. Clutch: Ensure the clutch is operating as intended without excessive wear/damage.

vii. Gas Tank: Check for internal rusting and general condition.

viii. Seating: Cosmetic and functional condition.

ix. Tires: Check current condition of tires.

x. Electrical and Battery: Ensure electrical system powers instruments and lights.

xi. Suspension: Check for leaks, straightness and dampening.xii. Wheels: Inspect physical condition.

xiii. Chain/sprockets: Check for wear in case of required replacement.

xiv Exhaust: Equal exhaust pressure should be attained


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SECTION 4: GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS

Manufacturer: _________________ VIN: _________________

Model: _________________ Owner: _________________

Year: _________________ Mileage: _________________

Color: _________________ Asking price: _________________

Reason for selling:

______________________________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________________

Misc comments:

______________________________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________________


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NOT FOR SALE / FREE FOR DISTRIBUTION

Filename: IQ.OQ.PQ.001.00 Used Bikes.doc Page 10 of29

SECTION 5: OVERALL APPEARANCE

Procedure Description Pass / Fail CommentsCheck the overall appearance for largecracks or scratches.

Numerous cracks or scratches may indicatedropping or crashing of the bike.

Inspect any visible fasteners (metal andplastic) on the fairings and majorcomponents. Fittings should not be loose orhave substantial gaps.

Gouged or stripped fasteners indicate lack ofrepair and improper installations. Ill-fittingcomponents may produce rattle or additionalwear when riding.

Step back and sight down the centerline ofthe bike. Check for symmetry of the mirrors,plastic components, handlebars, etc.

If something is askew this may mean the bikeframe is twisted, something has beendamaged or installed improperly. Most likelythe bike has been crashed hard.

Scratched fairings Bent subframe


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SECTION 6: CRASH HISTORY

Procedure Description Pass / Fail CommentsLook for the following:

i) deep parallel scratches on the enginecases on plastic, particularlyabove foot-peg level

ii) non-standard/different paint spotsiii) ground handlebar ends or leversiv) dents in the gas tank from the

handlebars during a crashv) dents and deep parallel scratches on

the exhaust pipe(s)

vi) turn-signal stalks bent/ripped offvii) cracks in bodywork (covered by

stickers)

Any of these may indicate that the bike hasbeen in a substantial crash.

Check to see if the levers are of the samestyle/color/make or hammered back intoshape. Look for thin spiderweb hairlinecracks.

This may indicate the bike has been tippedover or crashed.

Check mirrors for bends, cracks or that themirrors are of different style/color/make.

This may indicate the bike has been down(crashed or tipped over).

Sit on the bike, sight down the forks andensure they are straight and parallel and not

twisted or bent.

Bent forks are expensive to fix. Either is a

warning sign to look for other damage.Check for non-parallel or shallowcuts/scratches and shallow chips.

Indicates the bike was tipped over and wouldonly comprise of cosmetic damage.

Check for horizontal scratches on lowerplastic and metal parts. Ask owner about thescratches.

Most likely they are the result of enthusiasticriders, turning hard, etc.


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Crashed brake lever Crashed gas tank

Cracked bodywork behind a sticker Broken mounting tab on frame


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SECTION 7: RACING OR ABUSIVE CARE

Procedure Description Pass / Fail CommentsLook for holes drilled through the head ofbolts in the following locations:

i) front brake caliper mounting boltsii) exhaust pipe boltsiii) engine case boltsiv) oil/water drain bolts

The holes should be about 1/16 and notconfused with castellated nuts.

Racers safety-wire bolts and if these holesare present the bike has been raced at onepoint during its use.

Check tires for roughed up edges, coveredwith ragged strips of balled-up rubber. Checkto see if the center of the tire is flat but thesides are new.

Rough edges and balled-up rubber is a signof racing. Flat/bald centers are a sign ofburnouts.

Look for heavy duty aftermarket enginecovers (NRC, Factory, Traksport,Yoshimura).

Indicator that the bike may have been raced.

Inspect the under-side of the rear fender for athick streak of balled-up and flung off rubber. This indicates burnouts have beenperformed.

Inspect the frame for cracks (especially alongthe weld lines) around the steering head,engine mounts, front fairing bucket and rearsubframe.

This means the bike has not been operatedwith little care and has not been maintained.


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Ragged edges Aftermarket engine cover

Ragged edges Safety-wired holes Safety-wired nut


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SECTION 8: BRAKES

Procedure Description Pass / Fail Comments

Squeeze the brake lever. There should beincreased resistance as the level reaches itsfinal position.

Level may need adjustment, air bubbles may bein the brake line, brake pads may need replacing,or something is wrong with the master cylinder(worst case). Bleeding air lines is about $5 and hour of labor.

Put the bike in neutral. Roll the bike forwardand gently apply the front brakes. Theyshould engage and move smoothly. Nowrelease the brakes and roll the bike. The bikeshould roll without any additional resistance.

If the bike experiences extra resistance rollingafter the brake is disengaged it means the brakesare dragging and it could mean the calipers willrequire work.

Stand in front of the bike and squeeze thebrake lever hard and try to drag the biketowards you with the handlebars. The bikeshould not budge.

If the bike moves there is something wrong withthe brakes.

Roll the bike forward and use the rear brake.It should engage smoothly. If the rear brakesare drum brakes, check the indicator needleto ensure the pad is inside its usable range.

There is a problem with the rear brake or the padrequires replacing.

Engage the front brake, and then the rear

brake, checking to see if the brake lightsilluminate for each one.

If the light doesnt come one, it could mean aburnt bulb or possibly a new switch ($25).

For disc brakes, there should be at least 1/8of the pad still remaining.

Pads are $25-30 a pair.

Inspect the rotors for cracks, grooves andwarpage.

Rotors will be $150-250 each.


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Check brake fluid color through the sightglass on the master cylinder or on the brakefluid reservoir. Sometimes rear brake fluid isvisible under the seat/tail section or through ahole cut into the tail section or side fairings. Itshould be a very light amber.

A darker than honey color or a low level meansits about time to change the fluid.

Inspect brake hoses for dry rot, cracks andleaks.

Brake lines are $80-150.

Front brake system Disc brake Drum brake


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SECTION 9: CLUTCH


Ask the owner how many kilometers sincethe clutch cable has been changed.

Most owners wont know but a good ownerwill. If the level can move about 5/8 beforethe cable goes taut the adjuster probably justneeds a turn or two.

Put the bike in first gear and squeeze theclutch all the way in and roll the bike forward.It should feel like neutral, with possibly a littlemore resistance. Slowly let the clutch out andfeel for the friction zone. Engagement shouldbe fairly smooth and not abrupt. Put the bike

back in neutral.

The clutch may be a bit sticky if the bike isntwarmed up.

(Optional) If the bike has a hydraulic clutch(for bigger bikes) check fluid color and levelthrough the master cylinders sight glass. Itshould be light amber and within theoperating limits.

Fluid may require change if the color is verydark or the level is too low.

If the bike has high mileage (over 48k+) ask ifthe clutch has been changed.

$100-300 and 1-2 hours of labor.

Cable slack and adjuster


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SECTION 10: GAS TANK

Procedure Description Pass / Fail CommentsLook for dents on the gas tank. Indicative of a drop or crash.Open the gas tank and use a flashlight tolook for rust and loose sediment (clogscarburetors).

Rust removal is about $150.

The gas inside the tank should be light amberand the metal should be bare. Milky paint-likecoatings mean it has had rust removed andbeen coated.

Recoated gas tanks are generally not asgood as the original. This only applies tometal gas tanks (few are plastic). Very dark-colored gas means it has been sitting insidefor a very long time which will require athorough fuel-system cleaning ($5 and 2-3

hours of labor).Ensure the lock on the gas cap works. $100-200 for an OEM cap with lock.

SECTION 11: SEATINGProcedure Description Pass / Fail Comments

Look for tears and cracks.This will make your pants wet after raining.$100-150 to get it reupholstered.

Ensure the locking release works with thekey.

$80 and hour of labor to fix.

Ensure the seat is stable and latches onsnugly.

A poorly situated seat is annoying and if thelatch does not work properly the electricalinside may be vulnerable.


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SECTION 12: TIRES

Procedure Description Pass / Fail CommentsAsk the owner how many years andkilometers are on the tires.

A good owner will know. 3-5 years and50,000 km is the maximum amount of time.

Inspect tire treads:i) at least 1/8 tread leftii) no squared-off tires, dry rot (fine

cracking), or baldness

Off-road tires - $100-200 / pairStreet/sport tires - $170-300 / pair

Record year of tire manufacture. Post-2000 date code is WWYY. For pre-2000, WWY (week, year number). Eg: 226 is22nd week of 1996, or 1986, etc.


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SECTION 13: ELECTRICAL AND BATTERY

Procedure Description Pass / Fail CommentsCheck to make sure lights work:

i) headlights (low/high) workii) turn signals workiii) brake lights workiv) oil pressure light comes on when the

ignition is on but turns off whenengine is started

v) horn worksvi) instrument cluster lights up

Light bulb replacement isnt expensive but ivis very important: if this doesnt happen therecould be something seriously wrong with themotorcycle.

Ensure that the key turns the ignition, but

also that an incorrect key does notturn theignition.

A stolen bike has the ignition hammered with

a flathead screwdriver, damaging the ignition.$200 and 1.5 hours of labor to replace.

If applicable, ensure that the kickstandengine cut-off works (ask the owner as itdiffers between bikes).

Riding with the kickstand engaged isextremely dangerous, so it is best to have anengine cut-off.

Start the engine and hit the kill switch. Theengine should turn off.

This is a safety hazard if it is inoperable.

Start the engine and listen for crankingissues.

If the bike starts without trouble theignition/battery is good.

Turn the headlights on and rev the engine.The headlights should not dim.

Battery is discharged or almost dead. $80-120 for a new battery.

Ignition switch and steering head


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SECTION 14: SUSPENSION


Ask the owner how long it has been since thefork seals were changed. They should bechanged every 24-32,000 kilometers.

Replacement is about $100 and 2-3 hours oflabor with the bushings.

Straddle the bike, grab the front brake andpush down vigorously on the forks. Theyshould go down and back up with resistance.

Squeaking noises or binding is very bad. Noresistance means the dampers may needreplacing.

Inspect the fork legs. They should be:i) smooth with absolutely no scratches,

nicks, gouges.ii) Totally free of oil droplets.

Replacing fork legs is very expensive.

Ask the owner when the last time suspensionfluid was changed.

Suspension fluid should be changed everyyear or two.

Get someone to stabilize the front of the bikeand push down on the bikes grab rail orpassenger seat hard. The bike should springback up.

If the bike does not show any resistance at allthen the shock absorbers requirereplacement. $350 and 3 hours of labor.


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SECTION 15: WHEELS

Procedure Description Pass / Fail CommentsLook carefully around the circumference ofboth sides of the wheels and look for dents.

$100 + labor for straightening.

(Optional) If the wheels are spoked, wiggleeach spoke to ensure it is not loose.

Loose spokes are a sign of neglect.

(Optional) Magnesium or carbon-fiber wheelsshould be inspected carefully for cracks.(Brands such as Technomagnesio orMarchesini.)

These wheels are light and are an indicationof racing. Cracks will propagate quicklyleading to catastrophic failure.


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SECTION 16: CHAIN/SPROCKETS

Procedure Description Pass / Fail CommentsGrab the chain at the rearmost point on therear sprocket and pull backwards (Warning,greasy!). If you can pull it off to expose half atooth or more it needs replacement. Rollersshould be smooth and clean.

New chain costs $100 + 1 hour of labor.

Sprocket teeth should be absolutelysymmetrical. Excessive wear will formhooked teeth.

$60 + 1 hour of labor for 2 new sprockets.

(Optional) If the chain uses a clip-typemasterlink (common in aftermarket chains)

make sure the closed end faces the directionthat the chain rotates.

If the required clip (if applicable) is missing or

installed improperly the chain may come off.

Have someone put their weight on the bike tocheck the chain. It should have at least 1 ofplay at the middle at the bottom of the loop.

Overly tightened chains result in excessivewear.


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SECTION 17: EXHAUST

Procedure Description Pass / Fail CommentsInspect the exhaust pipe for holes. These are bad, indicative of a crash oradvanced rust.

Start the engine and listen for chuggingnoises from the exhaust.

This indicates pulsing from escaping exhaustthrough holes.

(Optional) If the bike has multiple exhaustpipes, start the engine and hold a piece ofpaper close to each exhaust pipe to feel if thepressure is roughly equal. Be very cautious ofbackfiring as this will severely burn anythingbehind the exhaust.

If the pressure is obviously unequal this mayrequire modifications to the exhaust piping ormanifold, which is quite expensive.

SECTION 18: ENGINE/FLUIDS/CARBURETORSProcedure Description Pass / Fail Comments

Once the engine is cooled down, perform acold-start and rev the engine. There shouldbe no clacking sounds or hesitation withrevving.

Pre-warmed engines will mask cold-startproblems. Clacking sounds while idling iscause to abandon the bike. Hesitation andstumbling during revving means carburetorproblems.

Twist the throttle and let it snap back with thehandlebars straight and turned. If the enginekeeps revving or the throttle is resistant there

is a problem.

This could be a problem with the carburetoror the throttle cable:

i) Carburetor is gunked up ($200 or $5

+ 1-3 hours of labor)ii) Bent handlebars preventing the

throttling tube from sliding well:$75 but indicates a crash

iii) Throttle cables partially seized orrouted poorly. Cables are $20 + hour of labor


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Procedure Description Pass / Fail CommentsAsk the owner when the oil was last changed. The owner must know when this was

performed. It should be every 5,000 mi/8,000km, every 6 months, and before winterizing.

Check oil level. It should be in range. Notethe color. Oil level should be within range.

i) honey-colored: very recently changed(fades to black with time/use)

ii) black: old oil -- ask owner when it waslast changed

iii) white milky streaks: water is leakinginto the oil (see below)

iv) grey oil: lots of aluminum particles inoil (semi-OK on dirt bike, not OK onstreet bike)

v) shiny metal flecks: run away -- majorabnormal engine wear

(Optional) For liquid cooled bikes, check theoil coolant for white streaks. If the whitestreaks are present, run the bike for 20-30minutes. If they do not disappear, this meansmajor engine work to replace gaskets.

White streaks indicate water. It could becondensation from the air or a leak.Condensation will burn off in the 20-30minutes.

Check coolant level at the radiator overflowbottle.

Coolant levels should be within range. If thecoolant color is clear or pink then it indicatesthe bike has been raced. Green coolant is

normal. Brownish green coolant meansrusting is occurring within the system which isnot worth repairing.

Run the bike for 20-30 minutes and check toensure that the exhaust is invisible (do notconfuse white smoke with condensing air ona cold day).

White smoke is normal to be seen duringstart-up, but if it continues after 20-30minutes it indicates oil or coolant is beingburned (leak). Blue smoke indicates burningoil.


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SECTION 19: CENTERSTAND CHECKS (OPTIONAL)

Procedure Description Pass / Fail CommentsHave someone sit on the passenger seat sothe front wheel is lifted into the air. Turn thesteering through the entire range of motion.There should be no notching, binding orirregularities.

These can be the result of dents in thesteering bearings from wheelies or impropercable routing. Steering bearings are $60-80 +2 hours of labor.

Spin the front wheel and gently apply thebrakes. It should feel and sound smooth.

A pulsating feeling at the lever means newbrake rotors are needed and may be warped.$150-250 each rotor.

Grab the front axle and pull and push it (nottwist). It should not move.

The front axle should not move at all.

Put the front wheel down and grab the rearaxle and try to move it side to side (checkingswingarm movement). It should not moveindependent of the motorcycle chassis.

If it can move, the swingarm bearings arebadly worn. $150 + 3-4 hours of labor.

SECTION 20: SERVICEProcedure Description Pass / Fail CommentsAsk the owner for any service documentation. A good owner will keep tabs on his bike

maintenance.

SECTION 21: ACCESSORIESComponent Modified / upgraded? Comments

Exhaust Full systems purchasing worth: $100-300Slip-ons purchasing worth: $50-200


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Component Modified / upgraded? CommentsTank Bra $20

Centerstands $30-50

Suspension General: $200-300Fox shocks: $550Ohlins/Penske: $750Purchasing worth: $50-100

Extra Storage Tank bags: $30-60Soft luggage: $80-120Hard luggage: $200-600

Other modifications

SECTION 22: TITLES AND PAPERWORKProcedure Description Pass / Fail Comments

Ensure the VIN number on the title matches

the one on the bike.

Mismatch could mean a stolen vehicle.

Ensure the seller is the owner on the title,and that there are no liens (ask the seller toput it down in writing). Salvage or totalloss title means the bike was crashed. Verifythe bikes color.

Do not buy a bike with liens or unreleasedliens as the bike could be repossessed fromyou.

Ensure you obtain a bill of sale. Can be written down anywhere.


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SECTION 23: TEST RIDE (OPTIONAL)

Procedure Description Pass / Fail CommentsCheck revving, clutch feel, and brakes. Getup to highway speeds and slowly and firmlybrake using only the front or rear brake. Itshould be smooth.

Pulsing at the brake lever indicates warpedrotors ($150-250 each)

On a smooth road, feel for wobbling,thumping and unusual shaking that varieswith road speed (not engine speed).

Wobbling indicates crash damage, andshaking could be a problem with the wheelsor tires.

Check for popping out of gear during enginebraking and under hard acceleration.

This is a major problem and a very expensivething to repair.

Additional comments:

Documents

Used Bike Inspection Doc