TOH DIY Electrical Tips

7/29/2019 TOH DIY Electrical Tips

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This Old House

Do-It-Yourself

Electrical Tips

Is Old Wiring Safe?

10 Wiring Problems Solved

Electrical Upgrades

Installing a Floodlight

Adding Outlets To a Garage

Replacing an Outlet with a GFCI Circuit

Replacing Ungrounded Outlets


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Is Old Wiring Safe?

It's not just the nation's power grid that's antiquated. The wiring inside many houses is also out of date,straining to supply our ever-growing collection of electricity-hungry appliances, lighting, andelectronics. The circuits in many older homes weren't designed to power the many gadgets of modern

life. The signs of strain may be obvious a tangle of extension cords and power strips sprouting froma single outlet or lurking unseen behind walls, ceilings, and cover plates. Today's standardhousehold wiring is a plastic-sheathed, insulated three-wire cable, universally known by the trade nameRomex. But the vintage copper wiring in many older houses works just as well as the new stuff, as longas it's in good condition and hasn't been altered in a way that violates code. Here are some wiringsystems you'll find in older homes.

Knob and Tube

Knob and tube was the earliest residential wiring system has a

cloth-covered hot wire and a neutral wire, which run parallelabout a foot apart. Ceramic knobs anchor the wires to the houseframing; ceramic tubes are used where wires cross or penetrateframing.Danger: Knob and tube wiring may be covered with buildinginsulation, which causes overheating.Caveats: Cannot be grounded or spliced into a grounded circuit.Its soldered connections may melt if too much current flowsthrough them. Rewire or disconnect any circuits covered withbuilding insulation; it causes this wiring to overheat.

Armored Cable (Bx)

Armored cable is the successor to knob and tube. A flexiblesteel sheath covers hot and neutral wires, which are insulatedwith cloth-covered rubber. The sheath provides a ground, sogrounded receptacles are easy to retrofit.Danger: Armored cable insulation degrades over time, as shownabove, or if too much current is allowed to flow through thecircuit.

Caveats: Sheath must be anchored securely to a metal outlet box.Check condition of insulation every five years or so; it


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Two-wire plastic-sheathed cable

Two-wire plastic-sheathed cable was commonly used after

armor cable and before Romex became the standard.Danger: Grounded receptacles cannot be retrofitted to two-wireplastic-sheathed cables.Caveats: Plastic is easily damaged. Grounded receptaclescannot be retrofitted to this wire.

Protecting the Box

Fuse boxes are less common these days than circuit breaker panels, but they work just fine unlesssomeone installs fuses with a higher amperage than the wires can safely handle. That can cause thewires to overheat, damaging their protective insulation and increasing the risk of fire. Once theinsulation has been damaged, the danger remains even if the offending fuse is replaced with one that'sthe proper amperage. To fix it, the old circuit must be rewired.

Some wiring problems are just inconveniences. But others can pose serious fire or electrocutionhazards. If you're buying a house (especially one that's more than 50 years old), or if you've never hadyour wiring inspected, it's a good idea to hire a licensed electrician to give your home a thoroughgoing-over. "He'll look at the insulation on the wires to see if it's dried out and fraying, he'll look forcorrosion in the service panel, and he'll look to see if a previous owner did anything unsafe," Gallant

says. After that, he recommends getting a quick follow-up inspection every five years.

Don't be alarmed if the inspection turns up code violations. Each time the electrical code is revised, oldwiring is "grandfathered," on the assumption it was installed correctly. Code only requires you toupdate wiring in rooms being gut-renovated.

To help you assess the state of your own electrical system, we've asked Gallant to identify the 10 mostcommon wiring problems he sees, the dangers they pose, and his recommended solutions.

Remember: Anytime you work with wiring, be sure to turn off the circuit at the main breaker panel.


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How GFCI Receptacles Keep You Safe

A ground fault happens whenever electricity escapes the confines of the wiring in an appliance, lightfixture, or power tool and takes a shortcut to the ground. When that short cut is through a human, theresults can be deadly. About 200 people in the U.S. alone die of ground faults each year, accounting fortwo-thirds of all electrocutions occurring in homes.

To prevent such accidents, Charles Dalziel, a professor of electrical engineering at the University ofCalifornia, invented the ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI), in 1961. Most of the time, his inventiondoes nothing; it just monitors the difference in the current flowing into and out of a tool or appliance.But when that difference exceeds 5 milliamps, an indication that a ground fault may be occurring, theGFCI shuts off the flow in an instant as little as .025 second.

GFCIs are required by the National Electric Code in all new kitchens, bathrooms, crawl spaces,unfinished basements, and most outdoor receptacles. Owners of older houses can retrofit $10 GFCIreceptacles at those locations or have GFCI breaker switches (which run as much as $108 for 50-ampmodels) mounted in the main breaker panel. Portable GFCI adapters, which plug into regular wallreceptacles, are available for about $40.

The great thing about GFCIs is that they protect you whether or not your wiring is grounded. Becauselightning and other power surges can damage a GFCIs delicate circuitry at any time, perform thefollowing monthly test: Plug in a light fixture and turn it on. Then push the device's test button. If thelight stays on, the GFCI needs to be replaced.


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10 Wiring Problems Solved

PROBLEM #1

Overlamping is when a light fixture has a bulb with a higherwattage than the fixture is designed for

What it means: A light fixture has a bulb with a higher wattagethan the fixture is designed for.Code violation? Yes.Danger level: High. The bulb's intense heat can scorch or meltthe socket and insulation on the fixture's wires, which increasesthe risk of arcing sparks that jump through the air from onewire to another a chief cause of electrical fires. The damage tosocket and wires remains even after the bulb has been removed.Solution: Stay within the wattage limit listed on all light fixturesmade since 1985. For older, unmarked fixtures, use only 60-wattbulbs or smaller.

PROBLEM #2

Uncovered junction boxes increase the risk of wire damage andshockWhat it means: Because a junction box houses the splices wherewires are connected to one another, a person could inadvertentlydamage the wires or get a shock.Code violation? Yes.Danger level: Minimal, as long as wires aren't within reach.Solution: Spend a few cents to buy a new cover and install itwith the screws provided.

PROBLEM #3

Lights flicker when it's windy because frayed wiring causes ashort whenever the cables moveWhat it means: Frayed wiring in the weatherhead (the outdoorfitting where overhead cables from the power line come into thehouse) is causing a short whenever the cables move.Code violation? No.Danger level: High. Aside from the annoyance, the frayedwiring can arc and start a fire.

Solution: Contact the electric utility, which may replace theweatherhead at no charge.


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PROBLEM #4

Not enough outlets means you're likely to rely on extensioncords and power stripsWhat it means: Heavy reliance on extension cords and powerstrips.Code violation? No; grandfathered in. (Today's codes require

receptacles within 4 feet of a doorway and every 12 feetthereafter.)Danger level: Minimal, as long as you use heavy-duty extensioncords, 14-gauge or thicker. (The thicker the wire, the lower thegauge number.) Undersize extension cords (16-gauge or smaller)can overheat and ignite a fire if loads are too heavy.Solution: Add more outlets. Expect to pay an electrician about$100 per first-floor outlet and double that for second-floor work.(There will likely be a minimum charge.) This work requirescutting holes in walls and ceilings to snake the wires. Someelectricians will patch the holes; others leave the patching to you.

PROBLEM #5

GFCIs shut down circuits in 4 milliseconds to prevent fatalshockWhat it means: Increased risk of electrocution in wet areas,such as baths and kitchens. GFCIs (ground-fault circuitinterrupters) shut down circuits in 4 milliseconds, before currentcan cause a deadly shock.Code violation? No; grandfathered in. (Codes today requireGFCIs within 4 feet of any sink and on all garage, basement, andoutdoor outlets.)Danger level: High.Solution: Replace old receptacles with GFCIs (about $12 each).This is a simple job that many homeowners do themselves.Electricians charge about $20 per outlet. (There will likely be aminimum job charge.) Note: As an alternative, GFCI breakers($25) can be installed on the main panel. But then every time onetrips, you have to go down to the basement to reset it.


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PROBLEM #6

Overwired panels contain more circuits than they are rated tohandleWhat it means: The panel contains more circuits than it's ratedto handle, because too many single-pole breakers (one circuit)have been replaced with tandem breakers (two circuits) in one

slot. (Tandem breakers aren't the same as high-amp double-polebreakers, which take up two slots with one circuit.) A label oneach panel specifies how many circuits the panel canaccommodate.Code violation? Yes.Danger level: Minimal. It may become an issue when the houseis being sold and an inspector looks inside the panel.Solution: Add a subpanel with a few extra slots ($250), or, ifyou're planning major home improvements, replace the existingpanel with a larger model ($500 to $800).

PROBLEM #7

Popular in the 1960s and '70s, unsafe aluminum wiring is acheap substitue for copperWhat it means: You have a type of wiring, used in the 1960sand '70s as a cheap substitute for copper, that is no longerconsidered safe.Code violation? No; grandfathered in.Danger level: High. Aluminum corrodes when in contact withcopper, so connections loosen, which can lead to arcing andfires.

Solution: Retrofit a dielectric wire nut approved for aluminumwire (a pair sells for less than $1) onto each copper/aluminumconnection in light fixtures. These nuts have a special grease thatstops corrosion while maintaining conductivity. Make sure anyreplacement switches and receptacles are labeled AL-compatible.

PROBLEM #8

Backstabbed wires are more likely to come looseWhat it means: On newer switches and receptacles, wirespushed in the back are more likely to come loose than those

anchored around screw terminals.Code violation? No. The practice is allowed, even for newconstruction.Danger level: It depends. At a minimum, loose wires can causea receptacle or switch to stop working. In the worst case, theycan start a fire.Solution: Check for backstabbed connections by removing aswitch or receptacle from its outlet box. Release the wires andattach them to the appropriate screw terminals on the receptacle.


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PROBLEM #9

Undergrounded (2-pronged) receptacles means your homehas no way to safely conduct stray currentWhat it means: Your house's wiring has no way to safelyconduct any stray current that escapes the confines of the wires.Code violation? No; grandfathered in. (Today's code requires

grounded circuits and receptacles.)Danger level: Minimal, as long as you don't use an adapter tofit a three-prong plug into a two-prong receptacle. Doing socould destroy the device you're plugging in, and increase thechance of electrocution.Solution: Replace two-prong receptacles with properlygrounded three-prong ones, if wiring allows it (see . Also, testall existing three-prong receptacles with a GFCI circuit tester tomake sure they're grounded. Rewire any that aren't.

PROBLEM #10

Plugs fall out of their receptacles when contacts are wornWhat it means: Worn contacts in receptacle no longer grip theprongs firmly.Code violation? No.Danger level: High. Loose contacts can cause arcing, which canignite dry wood and dust.Solution:Replace the old receptacles as soon as possible. (Anew one costs about $2.) Many homeowners feel comfortabledoing this themselves. Electricians will charge about $8 or $10per outlet, although there's likely to be a minimum charge forsmall jobs.


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Electrical Upgrades

Many homeowners who think nothing of tackling painting, carpentry and plumbing projects turn timid.

When it comes to electrical work, a little fear isn't necessarily bad when dealing with electricity itcould keep you from making a serious mistake. But that doesn't mean there aren't electrical projectsyou can handle. All you need is an understanding of how the electrical code applies to your project andsome instruction on making proper wire connections.

To safely guide you through theseupgrades, we've included photographs that outline the basic steps andillustrations that show all the wiring connections. Consult with an electrician if your home is wireddifferently than the ways illustrated.

If you're still not feeling confident, here's an alternate approach: Run cables, install boxes, and wire inswitches and outlets, then hire an electrician to make the final power hookups and check for any codeviolations. (Most municipalities allow you to do your own electrical work, though you're never allowedto wire someone else's home.) Also, get the proper permits from your local building department beforestarting. It's the law, and you'll also get the benefit of having your work checked both at the rough-instage and when it's completed.

Before starting work, turn off the power at the main service panel. Plug

a lamp or circuit tester into the circuit you're working on to confirm the

power is off.

Finally, if you have any questions or concerns, always consult with a licensed electrician or buildinginspector before you proceed. Electrical work isn't difficult, but the consequences for not doing it rightcan be serious.


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Installing a Floodlight

One of the simplest, most effective ways to enhance the safety and security of your home is to add amotion-sensor floodlight to the garage. The dual-lamp model installed here comes on automatically ifsomethingor someonecrosses its field of vision.

If youre hesitant about working with electricity, dont worry. Weve greatly simplified the process bysafely tapping into an existing garage circuit and by running the wires through surface-mounted metaltubing, called conduit. This technique speeds the installation by eliminating the need to blindly pullwires through walls and ceilings.

All of the supplies required for this project are sold at hardware stores and home centers, including thethin-wall metal conduit, which is referred to as EMT for electrical metallic tubing.

Tools for This Project:

Side-cutting lineman's pliersWire stripperMagnetic torpedo level12-inch-long 7/8-inch spade bitTape measurePhillips-head screwdriverDrill/driverLadderFish tapeHacksaw

(to cut conduit)Round file or reamer

(to remove burrs on just-cut conduit)Utility knife

Supplies You Will Need

Floodlight:1. Round outlet box2. Lamp-holder cover3. Motion sensor4. Lamp holders (2)5. 90-Watt halogen bulbs (2)Wiring:6. 14-Gauge insulated stranded wires7. Twist-on wire connectors8. Electrical tape9. 14/2 Nonmetallic cable (aka romex)Hardware:10. 1/2-Inch emt conduit11. Conduit elbows12. Conduit hangers13. Straight conduit couplers14. Right-angle connectors with removable covers15. Cable connector16. Metal junction box17. Extension box with connectors18. Combination 15-amp GFCI receptacle andswitch19. 2-Inch galvanized decking screws

(for attaching electrical box to wall)20. Silicone caulk

(to seal hole)


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Overview

The floodlight shown here has two lamps and an infrared motion sensor, which automatically turns on

the lights if a person or vehicle approaches the garage (they go off after a few minutes). Homeelectrical projects like this typically require you to connect wires to the main electrical panel and thenfish them behind walls, under floors, and above ceilingsnot an easy job. However, the wiring for thisdriveway floodlight is confined to the garage, so you can tap in to an existing electrical outlet and thenuse easy-to-install surface-mounted metal conduit to run the wiring.

The 12-inch-diameter conduit, known as EMT (electrical metallic tubing), is sold at home centers andelectrical suppliers for about 20 cents a foot. You can also purchase right-angle conduit connectors ($4)and preformed curved elbows ($3) that allow you to turn corners with the rigid metal. Masterelectrician Allen Gallant suggests replacing the two-plug outlet with a combination GFCI receptacleand switch ($22) brought out from the wall with an extension box ($4.50). He prefers to assemble a

fixture from separate parts (about $60 total) instead of buying a single unit because that way hes ableto upgrade the quality of the motion sensor.

WARNING: Before starting this project, turn off the electricity to the garage at the main electricalpanel. Then test the garage receptacle by plugging in a radio or lamp to confirm that the power is off.


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Step by Step

1. Attach the extension box

After turning off the electricity to the garage,remove one of the existing wall receptacles. Screw the metal mounting plate that comes with theextension box to the electrical box in the wall. Use a screwdriver to pry the round knock-out plugfrom the top of the extension box. Attach a 1/2-inchmetal conduit connector to the top of the box. Fasten the extension box to the mounting plate withthe two long screws provided.

2. Connect the conduit

Measure from the top of the extension box to thegarage ceiling and then subtract 1 1/2 inches. Saw apiece of conduit to that dimension and file smoothany sharp burrs. Slide a right-angle connector onto one end of theconduit. Insert the other end into the connector on theextension box. Put a conduit hanger on the conduit. Check that theconduit is perfectly plumb, then mark the hanger'sposition. Move the conduit and screw the hanger to the wall.Slip the conduit back into place and secure it bytightening the screw on the hanger.TIP: Use a magnetic torpedo level, which sticks to theconduit.


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3. Install a preformed conduit elbow

Hold a conduit elbow against the wall corner andcut a piece of conduit to fit between the elbow and theright-angle connector. Insert the conduit into the right-angle connector; ifit's longer than 12 inches, install a conduit hanger. Join elbow to the conduit with a straight coupling. Continue installing conduit across the front wall,ending it over the center of the garage door. Usehangers every 12 inches.

4. Bore through the garage wall

Measure from the top of the doorway to the ceilingand subtract 1 inch. Then move outside and mark thesiding that dimension up from the center of the door. Bore a level hole through the garage wall with a 7/8-inch-diameter spade bit (see photo above). Inside, connect a junction box to the conduitrunning across the front wall. Then screw the box tothe ceiling. Run a length of 14/2 nonmetallic cable (Romex)from the junction box through the hole to theoutdoors.


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5. Attach the round outlet box

Fasten a cable connector to the hole in the base of

the round outlet box. Feed the nonmetallic cable through the connector,then tighten the connector screw. Fill the hole in the wall with silicone caulk or putty. Press the round outlet box flat against the siding andsecure it with two 2-inch-long galvanized deckingscrews.TIP: Use a connector wherever a cable or wire entersa box.

6. Pull the wires through the conduit

Remove the cover plate from the right-angle conduitconnector that's nearest the wall receptacle extensionbox. Feed an electrician's fish tape into this connectorand push it through the conduit until it comes out theextension box. Use electrician's tape to attach one each of black,white, and green 14-gauge stranded copper wires tothe fish tape. Pull the fish tape until the wires come out of theconnector, then undo the fish tape. At the junction box, push the tape into the conduit.Reconnect the three wires to it, then pull them intothe box.


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7. Assemble the floodlight

Carefully screw the motion sensor into the centerhole in the round lamp-holder cover. Thread the two lamp holders into the holes on eitherside of the motion sensor. Finger-tighten the motion sensor and lamp holders;don't use pliers. Final tightening and adjustment aren'tdone until after the floodlight is mounted on thegarage wall.TIP: If desired, spray-paint the floodlight to matchthe house. But not the sensor paint might impedeits performance.

8. Make the connections

Trim the cable coming from the round outlet box to6 inches and use a utility knife to cut away the plasticsheathing. Use wire strippers to remove 1/2 inch of the plasticinsulation from the black and white wires. Join the cable to the floodlight, as detailed in"Wiring Connections". Attach the floodlight with machine screws andinsert bulbs. Make the wire connections at the junction box andswitch. Then turn on the power and adjust the lamp

holders and motion sensor.


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Adding Outlets To a Garage

If you're tired of stringing an extension cord across the garage every time you want to vacuum out thecar or belt-sand a board, install a new wall outlet, or duplex receptacle.

In our garage, we tapped into a ceiling outlet to provide power to the new wall outlet. We ran -inch-diameter, thin-wall metal tubing, or conduit, across the ceiling and down the wall. (Conduit is sold invarious lengths for about 20 cents per linear foot; it's also referred to as EMT, for electrical metallictubing.) To bend conduit, electricians use a simple hand tool called a conduit bender. We took the easyway out and bought preformed 90-degree conduit elbows ($2 each).

Once the conduit is installed in your garage, push three 12-gauge, single-strand copper wires (25 centsper foot) through the tubing. There should be one white wire, one black wire, and one green groundingwire. At the end of the conduit, install a 4-inch-square metal box ($2.30) and two duplex outlets. As theillustration shows, one of the outlets is a GFCI, or ground-fault circuit interrupter outlet ($10), the othera standard grounded outlet ($2); they're wired so ground-fault protection is provided for both. Note thatone white wire goes from the top, left-side terminal screw on the standard outlet to the top, left-side"load" terminal on the GFCI. The black wire takes a similar route from the top, right-side terminalscrew on the standard outlet to the top, right-side "load" terminal on the GFCI. The long, continuousground wire runs from the metal box to the GFCI and then to the outlet.

According to the National Electrical Code, all garage-wall outlets must be GFCI outlets or standardoutlets protected by GFCI circuit breakers.

Code Reminders

Conduit connectors must be used to secure thin-wall conduit to metal boxes.

Garage-wall receptacle outlets must be protected by a GFCI at the outlet or by ground-faultcircuit interrupters in the main service panel. All metal boxes must be properly grounded.


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1.Turn off power to the section of the house

where you will be working. Then test ALLoutlets and switches with a tester to make sure thepower is off.

After removing the outlet from the garage ceiling,screw an extension ring to the existing box. Also,remove the knockout plug in the end of the ringfor attaching the conduit.

2. Use metal pipe hangers and toggle bolts to holdthe conduit to the drywall ceiling. Push the spring-loaded toggle up through a hole; tighten the screwto secure the hanger.


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3. Push the conduit up into the hangers, then slideit into the extension ring. Thread a machine screwinto each hanger and tighten it to hold the conduitfirmly in place.

4. Use a preformed conduit elbow to turn thecorner where the conduit runs parallel with thewall. Join the elbow to the two straight conduitpieces with slip-on connectors.


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5. To mount the metal receptacle box to theconcrete-block wall, drill three holes in the walland insert plastic anchors. Slide the box onto theconduit and screw it to the wall.

6. After the conduit is installed, push single-strandcopper wires into the extension ring and throughthe conduit until they appear at the receptacle boxmounted to the wall.


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7. Fasten the two outlets to the cover plate, thenscrew the plate to the box. The standard outlet onthe left is wired to the GFCI outlet on the right;both are ground-fault protected.


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Replacing an Outlet with a GFCI Circuit

Ground-fault circuit interrupter outlets prevent accidental electrocution, and code requires them inbaths, kitchens, laundry rooms, garages and outdoor locations. A GFCI has a built-in circuit breakerthat interrupts the flow of electricity the instant it senses a ground fault or current leak. But a GFCIwon't work unless it's properly connected. If your electrical system has not been upgraded for 20 yearsor more, you probably need to install GFCIs.

Code Reminders

All countertop receptacle outlets must be protected by a GFCI device installed at the outlet orby GFCI circuit breakers.

A kitchen must have two 20-amp circuits for countertop appliances. There should be countertop receptacles installed so that no point along the counter is morethan 2 ft. from an outlet.

Here's how:

1. Turn off the power to the outlet you will be replacing. Test to see the power is off.

2. Remove the old outlet. After turning off the electricity to thekitchen at the main service panel, remove the cover plate andunscrew the outlet from the box. Disconnect the wires andremove the old outlet.


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3. Wire the new outlet.At the back of the GFCI are screwterminals marked "load" and "line." The single screw at thebottom is the grounding screw. Attach both the black and whitewires to the screw terminals on the line side. Fasten the blackwire to the dark-colored screw and the white wire to the light-

colored screw. Again, make sure that both wires are on the"line" side. Wrap the bare copper wire around the groundingscrew and tighten it.

3. Install the outlet in the wall. Neatly tuck the wires into the box, screw the outlet in place and replacethe cover plate.

4. Check the GFCI. Press the "test" (power off) and "reset" (power on) buttons--the outlet should go

dead. Reset to resume current flow.Replacing Two-Prong Receptacles


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Replacing Ungrounded Outlets

Two-prong receptacle (undergrounded) Three-prong receptacle (undergrounded)

GFCI receptacle (undergrounded)

Old-fashioned two-prong receptacles connected to two-wire cables don't have the ground wires thatprotect people and electrical devices in case of a fault. Yet it is possible to retrofit a new three-prong orGFCI receptacle into the same outlet box without any rewiring, as long as the box itself is grounded.Luckily, metal boxes attached to armored, or BX, cablea type of wiring commonly found in oldhousesgenerally are grounded; the cable's flexible metal jacket serves the same purpose as adedicated ground wire.


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Tip

Even if an outlet box isn't grounded, installing a GFCI in it will still protect you (and your tools andappliances) from ground faults. But an ungrounded GFCI can't safeguard sensitive electronics, such asa computer or phone, from the interference caused by stray currents. The National Electrical Coderequires you to stick a label on the receptacle that reads, "No equipment ground." These labels come in

the box with a new GFCI.

To switch out your receptacles, just follow these steps:

1. Turn off the power to the outlet and test that power is off with tester.

2. Check for ground. Insert one prong of a circuit tester into the receptacle's hot slot (the shorter one),and touch the other to a screw that secures the cover plate. The tester should light up. If it does not, thebox is not grounded. You can install a GFCI (see tip at bottom), or call an electrician to fix the wiring.

3. Remove the old receptacle. Turn off the power at the breaker panel or fuse box. Unscrew the oldreceptacle from the box and detach the wires.

4. Connect the new receptacle. Attach the black (hot) wire to the brass terminal and the white (neutral)wire to the silver. On a GFCI, use the terminals in line with the "line" label on the back of thereceptacle. (If your box is not grounded, skip to Step 6.)

5. Fasten the ground screw. This green screw, sold in hardware stores, fits in a threaded hole in theback of the box. Hook one end of an 8-inch green grounding wire or pigtail (also available at hardwarestores) to the screw and tighten it.

6. Ground the receptacle. Secure the other end of the 8-inch grounding pigtail to the green groundingterminal on the three-prong or GFCI receptacle. Insert the new receptacle into the box.

7. Turn on the power. Use a circuit tester to make sure the circuit is working.

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TOH DIY Electrical Tips