tlm - the travel & leisure magazine winter 2012

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  • tlm

    the travel & leisure m


    tlmthe travel & leisure magazine

    winter 2012 3.50

    wina luxury spa stay inSpain, a South Westfoodie break,Champagne balloonflights &

    GO WESTGO WESTLiving the high life in Western CanadaLiving the high life in Western Canada

    FIESTA TIMETop carnivals and festivals

    DESERT ROSEBlossoming Gulf state Oman

    CHAPTER AND VERSEGoing by the book in Dublin

    ANIMAL MAGICThe lure of farm stays

    LOVE IS ALL AROUNDValentines cities

    FIESTA TIMETop carnivals and festivals

    DESERT ROSEBlossoming Gulf state Oman

    CHAPTER AND VERSEGoing by the book in Dublin

    ANIMAL MAGICThe lure of farm stays

    LOVE IS ALL AROUNDValentines cities

    PLUSLuxury Indian OceanSouth DevonRenting vs taking your own car

    PLUSLuxury Indian OceanSouth DevonRenting vs taking your own car


    issue ever



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    02TLMwinter-Sandals 16/1/12 09:58 Page 1

  • 4 in the frame picture perfect WIN two Polaroid instant cameras worth 310 in our new photo competition

    6 getting to knowWestern Canada15 escape to Dublin 20 uk uncovered Britains World Heritage Sites28 hit the road taking your car away versus renting34 resort report seven days in Turkeys Antayla39 competitions

    WIN a 800 Champagne balloon flight for four and a 350 South West foodie break40 seasonal focus valentines cities47 on your doorstep South Devon53 competitions

    WIN a 2,000 luxury five-night wine spa break in rural Spain55 travel fare Valencias iconic dish, paella56 a touch of class luxury Indian Ocean60 10 of the best carnivals and fiestas around the world67 in your flightbag what to take on the flight

    WIN a QuickSmart Backpack Stroller worth 12068 in your suitcase what to pack for your holiday

    WIN a 150 James Lakeland summer dress, three pairs of Butterfly Twists boots worth45 a pair, and a pair of Bootights worth up to 27

    70 off the beaten track Oman77 travel update travel news80 pack your clubs play where the stars play + golf news

    WIN a Garmin Approach S1 golf GPS watch worth 17986 lets try farm stays92 travel tech gizmos and gadgets to take away

    WIN a pair of Digital Silence in-ear headphones worth 7094 checking out focus on budget hotels, self catering, news + reviews102 london life Londons movie trail + London news

    WIN one of two pairs of Brit Movie Tours tickets, worth 50 per pair106 out & about whats on outside London110 coming next whats in store in the next issue

    subscribe to tlm and get an Insight Step by Step guide FREE

    tlmc o n t e n t s

    EDITORIAL: Editor Peter Ellegard Editorial assistant Julie Thompson Writers Peter Ellegard, Julie Thompson, Dave Richardson, John Law, JaneAnderson, Mike Swindell and Carlton Reid Design Nick Blaxill Production June Barnard PublisherTerry Stafford Advertising sales Elaine SmithDigital Publisher Peter Lewsey Published quarterly byTLM Media Limited, Langdale House, 11 Marshalsea Road, London SE1 1EN

    Tel: 020 3176 2570 Fax: 020 3176 2572 Email: Printed by BGP TLM Media LimitedFront cover photo: Sightseeing at Peyto Lake, Banff, Alberta, Canada Banff Lake Louise Tourism/Paul Zizka

    Awinter chill might be inthe air but we areaiming to inject morethan a little warmth with ourbumper 116-page winter issue,our biggest one to date.We have much to brighten

    those winter nights and, thinkingahead to hot, summer days, ournew Resort Report featurefocuses on the gateway to theTurkish Riviera, Antalya. We alsohelp you decide whether takingyour own car abroad or flyingand renting is best in anothernew feature, Hit the Road.For anyone with love on their

    mind, in the first of ourseasonal-focused features, welook at places to take yourloved one for a romanticValentines Day break or specialtreat, while we also look athoneymoon favourite, the IndianOcean, in our Touch of Classfeature.This issue takes you to

    extremes, from the deserts ofOman to the forested RockyMountains of Western Canada,while closer to home we look atthe UKs World Heritage Sites,take a trip to South Devon andfollow in the footsteps of thestars in our capital city.We have nearly 4,000 worth

    of prizes to win, too, including aluxury, five-night Spanish winespa break and a Champagneballoon flight for four.So pull that duvet up a bit

    further, snuggle down and getready for a good read...

    tlm the travel & leisure magazine

    from theeditor

    the travel and leisure magazine

    Peter Ellegard

    Over-water luxury at the AnantaraKihavah Villas. See page 56

    Anantara Hotels & Resorts

  • Digital photography might meaninstant images but it doesn'tnecessarily mean instant printedphotographs. Two new camerasfrom Polaroid provide thesolution, and you could win onein our brand new photocompetition.The theme

    this time is water and whatform it takes is down to you. Itcould be a scenic waterfall, or apristine lake, cleverly-capturedrain droplets or ocean-crashingwaves, and even clouds. Send usup to two water-themed shotsand you could win one of two

    instant digital Polaroidcameras; one for

    adults and onefor under-16s.

    the prizes

    Adult prize (16 and over):Polaroid Z340 camera: RRP229.99The Polaroid Z340 combines theconvenience of a digital camerawith instant printing and this 14megapixel camera features a 4xdigital zoom, 3x4 full colourimages printed in under a minuteas well as onboard editing andviewing options.

    Junior prize (under-16s):Polaroid 300 camera: RRP79.99This retro camera is perfect forthose looking for an instant photochoice in a fun way and is availablein red, blue or black. With fourscene settings and automatic flash,you can capture the perfect shotin any light and print it instantly.

    how to enter

    For details of how to enter thecompetition, go to andclick on Competitions. Entries willconsist of a portfolio of a maximumof two photographs. You must be aUK resident. Only one entry isallowed per person and professionalphotographers are excluded.Closing date is midnight on March4, 2012 whereupon the final 12 willbe selected for a vote on the tlmwebsite. See the tlm website formore terms and conditions.

    For more information on therange of Polaroid cameras go

    tlm the travel & leisure magazine

    in the frame competition


    Instant karma

    Acascade through aleafy forest inAmericas PacificNorthwest. In the depthsof winter, it is an imageto lift the spirit in antici-pation of spring.

    Water can have awonderfully calmingeffect, in all its forms.Which is why we havechosen it as the theme forour next photo competi-tion. See below.

    Take to the water and WIN one of twoinstant Polaroid cameras in our newphotography competition

    Waterfall and stream inOregons Columbia Gorge

    The Polaroid Z340

    Polaroids retro 300

    Peter Ellega




  • 005TLMwinter 16/1/12 10:02 Page 1

  • tlm the travel & leisure magazine

    getting to know Western Canada

    Iremember seeing the 1988 Calgary Winter Olympicson TV at home and laughing, like everyone elsewatching around the world, at the antics of Britainsclown prince of ski-jumping, Eddie the Eagle, as hehurtled down the ramp, only to plunge like a stoneinstead of soaring like his namesake.

    Fast forward some 20 years and I am standing on thevery spot where hapless Eddie launched himself intohistory at the top of the 90-metre ski-jump tower at

    Encompassing everything fromrugged Pacific coastline and verdantrainforests to vast lakes and glacier-cloaked mountains, the outdoorsdoesnt come any greater than inBritish Columbia and Alberta. PeterEllegard explores WesternCanadas natural wonders and takesin some adventure on the way

    The great ou td oor s

  • getting to know Western Canada

    tlm the travel & leisure magazine

    Calgarys Olympic Park, looking down that same slope.And I am anything but laughing now.

    A sit-in harness is being put on a safety helmet-cladcolleague a few steps down from me and hooked to agrab handle slung on wheels from a suspended cable thatruns from the top of the tower and all the way down thelength of the ramp to another tower 550 metres away and100 metres below us. On the other side of the track, afellow Brit is undergoing the same procedureand Iwould be following suit moments later.

    We are about to take on Skyline at the Park( North Americasfastest zipline, which emulates the speeds and sensationsof the 90-metre ski jumpers. So fast do you travel, reach-ing speeds of between 120kph and 140kph, that theharness incorporates a parachute, which is deployed asyou leap to help slow your descent.

    For me, climbing the tower was ordeal enough. I amnot merely scared of heights, not even petrified; I have amorbid dread of them, probably not helped by a well-meaning PR friend in New Zealand who thought shecould help me overcome it by tricking me into doing abungy jump off a bridge when I thought I was onlygetting a behind-the-scenes tour.

    adventureYet here I am, about to throw myself into nothingnessagain, and I can feel the panic levels rising. All toosoon, the moment arrives and I am hurtling down to ayell of Geronimo!, the force of the wind trying to pullthe skin off my face and the fear replaced by pureadrenalin. With a thump, my miniature cablecar hits thebuffers, sending arms and legs flailing. As I dismount,

    Forest in Queen CharlotteIslands National Park

    Ready to fly:Calgary's Skyline

    Peter Ellega


    Tourism British Columbia

    GettingtoknowTLMwinter12v1pp06-12_T&L 18/01/2012 22:17 Page 7

  • tlm the travel & leisure magazine

    getting to know Western Canada

    ready to be hooked up to the final, gentler section, Ilook back up to where I had beenand my stomachchurns.

    In a land where adventure of every kind beckons, thezipline is just a taste of whats in store.

    Calgary is the biggest city in Alberta and is one of themain gateways to explore the province and neighbouringBritish Columbia, which together are known as WesternCanada. A favourite way of combining both is to drive,go on a coach tour or take a sightseeing train betweenCalgary and Vancouver, on British Columbias Pacificcoast.

    It traverses the Rockies, several other mountainranges, even a desert, while also passing by forests,lakes, orchards and wineries as well as charming townsand all-season mountain resorts.

    I have done the journey several times myself, and it isone I wouldnt hesitate to recommend. If you lovenature, adventure, excitement or tranquillity, there reallyisnt anywhere that beats these two natural and spectacu-lar neighbours. They truly sum up the Great Outdoors.

    Calgary is just 90 minutes from the Rockies. You cansee its peaks in the distance on clear days. Before leavingthe city, step back in time at historic Fort Calgary andCalgarys fascinating Heritage Park(

    Then perhaps head south for a couple of days, to visitthe wonderfully-named Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump(, a UNESCO WorldHeritage Site over which buffalo were driven by nativeAmericans to their deaths below, and beautiful Waterton

    animal encountersBritish Columbia and Alberta have awealth of wildlife you can see. Here aresome of the opportunities to see wildcreatures up close: Go grizzly bear viewing at Knight

    Inlet Lodge(,50miles north of Campbell River, inBritish Columbia. Peak season isautumn, when the salmon return tothe rivers.

    Bears are commonly seenthroughout Banff National Parkwhile elk often graze by theroadside, creating the unusualphenomenon of elk and bear jams.

    The communities of Tofino andUcluelet on Vancouver Island holdan annual Pacific Rim Whale Festival( March to celebrate themigrating grey whales.

    Venture below the waters of PugetSound between Vancouver Islandand the mainland and you mightcatch a glimpse of the fearsomewolf eel or the giant octopus.

    Up to 4,000 bald eagles congregateeach year around Brackendale, nearSquamish, in British Columbia. Theybegin arriving in November and stayuntil mid-February.

    Whale-watching cruises head outfrom Victoria to see the residentkiller whales off Vancouver Islandssouthern coast. Prime viewing is latespring to early autumn.

    Mountain vistas from Lake Agnes Teahouse, Alberta

    Bears can often be seen

    Banff L

    ake Lo

    uise To






    GettingtoknowTLMwinter12v1pp06-12_T&L 18/01/2012 22:17 Page 8

  • Winter 2011/12 tlm the travel & leisure magazine 9 00

    From Calgary, Alberta, with its famous Stampede, and the awesome Rocky Mountains to the delights ofVancouver, Western Canada excites, inspires and surprises. Offering dozens of fly-drive itineraries, escorted

    tours and Rocky Mountaineer rail trips, Frontier Canada are the experts in tailor-made holidays.

    FrontierCanadathe finest tailor-made Canadian holidays

    Western Canada Rocks

    Whether you are looking for a bear viewing trip, a motor-home holiday or back-country adventures call Frontier Canada on 020 8776 8709 or visit

    009TLMwinter 16/1/12 13:18 Page 1

  • Lakes National Park, where you can cruise on a historicsteamer into US state Montana and get a commemora-tive but unofficial stamp in your passport when youmake a brief landing to stretch your legs.

    tumbling glaciersVisit Albertas Badlands to see Dinosaur Provincial Parkand visit the Royal Tyrrell Museum of Paleontology(, of the worlds largestdisplays of complete dinosaur skeletons.

    Banff National Park is Canadas oldest, most visitedand most famous national park and came about thanks tothe chance discovery of hot springs in a mountain ca...