Travel Leisure India 2012-10

Taj Forever seductive, forever trusted, forever enchanting. In the midst of a city famed for cutting edge technolog y stands the 125-year-old Taj West End. Born of an era that favoured bungalows and one-storey intimacy, it is situated across 20 acres of landscaped gardens. Remade entirely with contemporar y appointments, The Taj West End offers superlative service, the distinctive style of Taj Club and other facilit ies. In its salubrious surroundings are Blue Ginger, the speciality restaurant which introduced exquisite Vietnamese cuisine to India, Blue Bar- the city’s hottest night-spot, and Masala Klub.

For re ser v at ion s a nd c elebr ator y of fer s, plea se v i sit t ajhotel s .c om, ema i l we stend.ba nga lore @ t ajhotel s .c om, c a l l 1.8 0 0.111.825 tol l f re e, or c ont ac t t he hotel d i re c t l y, 91.8 0.6 6 6 0. 56 6 0.

Enchanting. Exhilarating.THE TAJ WEST END, BANGALORE

I n d i a N e w Yo r k B o s t o n S a n F r a n c i s c o L o n d o n C a p e To w n Z a m b i a D u b a i

M a l d i v e s S r i L a n k a L a n g k a w i B h u t a n S y d n e y O p e n i n g S h o r t l y : M a r r a k e c h

RNI No.DELENG/2006/23893

+TORONTOGURGAON

MALDIVESYORKSHIRE

VIETNAMCOSTA RICA

Kuala Lumpur Asia’s Melting Pot Why Flanders is Europe’s Best Kept SecretWhere to Eat, Play, Shop in Sydney

OUR LIST OF 40+ ADVENTURE TRAVEL OUTFITTERS

& SOUTH ASIAINDIA OCTOBER 2012 / 150

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October 2012Volume 7 / Issue 74

Features

54 Blue Lagoons Set a course for the Maldives, where a wave of sybaritic resorts is cresting on even the most far-fl ung atolls. This stunning archipelago of 1,192 islands scattered in the Indian Ocean is located just north of the equator. T+L charts eight new retreats. BY SHANE MITCHELL

56 KeralaThe unexplored north of the Kerala coast is now welcoming visitors with a seductive smorgasbord of

inducements—virgin beaches and backwaters, a little-known local cuisine, and two new resorts that are the last word in luxury. BY ROOPA PAI. PHOTOGRAPHED BY YASHAS CHANDRA

68 Toronto Lights UpThanks to an infusion of fashion-forward shops and nightlife, inventive restaurants and top-tier design. Canada’s largest city has gained a newfound swagger and an edgy style all its own. BY JONATHAN

DURBIN. PHOTOGRAPHED BY ROB FIOCCA

74 Costa RicaOn a journey down the Pacifi c coast and into the rain forest, RICHARD ALLEMAN uncovers eight amazing jungle lodges and oceanfront hotels. PHOTOGRAPHED BY BETH GARRABRANT

80 New MastersCould Flanders be Europe’s best-kept design secret? In Belgium’s northernmost region, HEATHER SMITH

MACISAAC discovers three small cities where contemporary style is steeped in centuries-old artistic tradition. PHOTOGRAPHED BY MARTHA CAMARILLO

88 Passport to the WorldWith infl uence from Australia to Iran and most stops in between, today’s Kuala Lumpur has never been at more of an international crossroads. JOHN KRICH sets off to fi nd out what makes it tick. PHOTOGRAPHED BY AUSTIN BUSH

A view at dusk over the Leie River in Ghent, in Belgium.

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6 O C TO B E R 2012 TR AV E L+LE ISU RE

hotels* $ Less than $200 $$ $200 to $350 $$$ $350 to $500 $$$$ $500 to $1,000 $$$$$ More than $1,000restaurants† $ Less than $25 $$ $25 to $75 $$$ $75 to $150 $$$$ More than $150

*Starting price for a standard double in September; for resorts, rates indicate the starting price in high season. †Price for a three-course dinner for two, excluding drinks.

COUNTRIES US �$1� AUS �$1� POUND �£1� EURO �€1�INDIA � � 54 56 87 69

SRI LANKA �SLR� 131 138 213 170

NEPAL �NPR� 86 90 139 111

MALDIVES �MVR� 15 16 25 20

PAKISTAN �PKR� 95 99 154 123

BHUTAN �BTN� 54 56 87 69

BANGLADESH �TAKA� 82 86 133 106

CURRENCY CONVERTER

—www.xe.com (Exchange rates as at press time).

Contents

Radar

15 Design-led properties; Ilaria Venturini Fendi’s Italian agriturismo; the hottest cultural events; and more.

22 Quiz See if you can pair these cabs with their hometowns? BY NINA FEDRIZZI

24 Style The classic Oxford is the women’s shoe of the moment—chic and timeless.

26 Street Style What’s happening in Austin? Just ask the locals. BY JESSIE BANDY

28 Travel Uniform Bergdorf Goodman’s Linda Fargo shares her on-the-road routine.

30 Eat Chennai’s favourite south Indian eatery is back for an encore. BY ROOPA PAI

32 T+L Picks Art and design share the spotlight at these

Deals 48 Looking to get away from it

all this October? From adventurous pursuits, romantic weekends to luxe escapes—we’ve shortlisted the best VFM deals. BY K H USHI K H A N NA

additions to the culture map.

34 Spas Two heavyweight Asian spa brands have recently unveiled their rejuvenating outposts in the Delhi-NCR region. T+L investigates. BY SAMAI SINGH

36 Drive On a four-day road expedition in an ultra-luxurious car RISHAD SAAM MEHTA explores the verdant Yorkshire countryside.

Trip Doctor 47 When it comes to easy-

to-use tech amenities, hotels have lagged behind. Thankfully, some hotels are stepping up their game.

Point of View 50 Fashion eccentric and

vintage clothing afi cionado LYNN YAEGER reveals the

tricks and travails of high maintenance travel.

T+L Decoder 98 A thriving contemporary

art scene. Game-changing restaurants. One -of-a-kind shops. The stylish harbour city, Sydney has it all. MARK ELLWOOD gets the scoop.

Strategies 105 Choosing the next great trip

into the outdoors means knowing what adventure you’re after—and fi nding the right outfi tter to match. We’ve created a directory of standout specialists. But fi rst, what traveller type are you? Answer the questions and follow you path to a T+L exclusive trip.

112 Last Look

DepartmentsE D I T O R ’S N O T E 8 … C O N T R I B U T O R S 12

L E T T E R S 14

On the Cover A secluded gazebo at the Vivanta by Taj - Bekal in Kerala. Photographed by Yashas Chandra.

The superb views on the drive from the Yorkshire Moors to the Yorkshire Dales, in England.

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Editor’s Note

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where to find [email protected]

In all the years that I spent in Europe, the three cities that I visited the most feature in our magazine this month. The fab three in Flanders—Bruges, Ghent and Antwerp—formed my comfort zone when I lived in Brussels as they were short drives or train rides away, and charmingly individual cities to take visiting friends to and to explore myself. On page 80, you will discover these hidden jewels for yourselves. In keeping with Belgium’s understated persona, as opposed to sometimes fl amboyant France and friendly Holland to the north,

all three cities are somewhat reluctant to be placed in the big league, though they most defi nitely belong there. Discover Europes’s best kept secret.

For me, my trips to Kerala have always been about a thousand shades of green and about the amazingly distinctive cuisine, my allergy to some forms of coconut notwithstanding. So, when we asked T+L contributor Roopa Pai to explore a brand new outpost in North Kerala, Bekal, that is now the focus of the Tourism Department’s development plans and also catching the eye of both Indian and international hotel chains, I knew that there would be talk of food and of nature, both synonymous with the state, apart from the two resorts that have been doing brisk business lately. Find out about this hitherto under-the-radar and charming part of God’s Own Country on page 56.

As travelling styles and temperaments evolve, so does the customization of trips and since so much of an itinerary is tailored for individual preferences, you can almost fi nd a trip that works just perfectly for you. In this issue, we fi ne tune the personality of an adventure seeker and get the top travel outfi tters in the fi eld to send in their top recommendations for the glam-trotter, the thrill seeker, the culture buff or even the weekend zoologist. Find a trip that’s right for you on page 105.

Our issue this month traverses most of the continents, from Costa Rica where we visit some jungle lodges to Toronto where the city has a new buzz. We island-hop in the Maldives; drive through the picture-postcard terrain of Yorkshire; take in the myriad international infl uences in Kuala Lumpur and also pamper ourselves at two new international spas in the NCR in India. Plus, there’s a special T+L Decoder on Sydney for all you people planning travels to the Southern hemisphere this winter/summer! —PAYA L KOH L I

October Issue

Travel + Leisure editors, writers, and photographers are the industry’s most reliable sources. While on assignment, they travel incognito whenever possible and do not take press trips or accept free travel of any kind. Write to T+L India & South Asia at [email protected] or Travel + Leisure India & South Asia, 323 Udyog Vihar, Phase-IV, Gurgaon-122 016, Hary ana, India.

Voting is in progress for the 2nd edition of the India’s Best Reader’s Choice Awards so make sure you write in and let us know what your top picks for the best in our business are.

Go to page 45 to pick your winners or vote online at www.travelandleisureindia.com.

CALLING FOR YOUR VOTES...

INDIA’SINDIA’SINDIA & SOUTH ASIA

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This is my Address

DOWNTOWN DUBAI | DUBAI MALL | DUBAI MARINA | MONTGOMERIE DUBAI | THE PALACE - THE OLD TOWNCALL +971 4 423 8888 | [email protected] | VISIT WWW.THEADDRESS.COM

This is where memories are made. Our family time is precious, so we need to

make it count. At The Address Hotels + Resorts we’re never far apart.

This is where an evening stroll becomes an adventure. Where we can leave work

behind and just be together. With five hotels in Dubai’s most prestigious locations,

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EDITOR�IN�CHIEF

Payal Kohli associate editor creative director Samai Singh Ragini Singh art director Ghanshyam Singh senior designer Jitesh Gandhi

contributing editor-mumbai Shilpi Madan

editorial assistant Sudhalika Verma

junior features writer (advertorials)Khushi Khanna

junior designer (advertorials)Varun Arora

PRODUCTION dgm production Sunil Dubey senior production manager Ritesh Roy production manager Devender Pandey assistant pre-press manager Kuldeep Dabral pre-press operator Brijesh K. Juyal chairman J.S. Uberoi president Xavier Collaco publishing director Rasina Uberoi-Bajaj director Amrita Shahra ceo & publisher Piyush Sharma chief financial officer Gaurav Kumar financial controller Puneet Nanda manager (hr) Sonya Caroline Shah

international advertising Sanjiv Bisaria books & guides Vishwajit Sen Gupta

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PRODUCT SALES & CONSUMER SERVICES national head product sales & consumer marketing Sunil Gujral head (retail) Vipul Jain assistant manager (corporate sales) Chandni Wadera manager (subscriptions) Ashish Sawhney regional managers Sathya Narayana T. S. (South) Somnath Pramanik (East) Subash Mishra (West)

CEO’S OFFICE exec. asst. to ceo & publisher Neeraj Rawat

AMERICAN EXPRESS PUBLISHING CORPORATION president/chief executive officer Ed Kelly chief marketing officer/president, digital media Mark V. Stanich senior vice president/chief financial officer Paul B. Francis senior vice president/editorial director Nancy Novogrod vice president/publisher, travel + leisure u.s. Jean-Paul Kyrillos executive editor, international Mark Orwoll publishing director, international Thomas D. Storms

TRAVEL+LEISURE INDIA & SOUTH ASIAvol. 7, issue 74

Published and distributed monthly by Media Transasia India Ltd., under sub licence from Media Transasia Ltd. Hong Kong by permission of American Express Publishing Corporation, 1120 Avenue of the Americas, New York, NY 10036, United States of America.

Registered offi ces: Media Transasia India Ltd., Plot No. 323, Udyog Vihar, HSIIDC, Phase-4, Gurgaon-122016; Media Transasia Ltd. #1205-6, Hollywood Centre, 233 Hollywood Road, Central Hong Kong, Hong Kong. Tel: (852) 28153111; Fax: (852) 28511933. Editorial offi ce:

Media Transasia India Ltd., Plot No. 323, Udyog Vihar, HSIIDC, Phase-4, Gurgaon-122016, Hary ana; Tel: +91-124-4759500, fax: +91-124-4759550. Copyright Media Transasia India Ltd. All rights reserved throughout

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Media Transasia India Ltd., Plot No. 323, Udyog Vihar, HSIIDC, Phase-4, Gurgaon-122016. Editor: Payal Kohli. Travel+Leisure does not take the responsibility for returning unsolicited publication material. All disputes are subject to the exclusive jurisdiction of competent courts and forums in

Hary ana only. Opinions expressed in the articles are of the authors and do not necessarily refl ect those of the editors or publishers. While the editors do their utmost to verify information

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TAKESYOUTHERE

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FOOD&WINE AWARDS

For instant subscription, e-mail: [email protected]: 0124-4759616/+91-98994144369.Subscribe online at www.mediatransasiaindia.com.

CELEBRATING6 SUCCESSFUL YEARSIN INDIA & SOUTH ASIA

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‘Howler monkeys and toucans are all around you, but photographing

wildlife can be tricky without knowing where to look.’

—Beth Garrabrant

RichardAllemanWriter“Costa Rica (Dive In)”

hotel you’d return to El Silencio Lodge & Spa is another world, but still less than a two hours’ drive from San José’s international airport. It could be an idyllic long-weekend getaway from the U.S. you weren’t prepared for... The roads! Especially those on the north and central Pacific coast—potholes, dust, occasional flooded patches. Four-wheel-drive vehicles are a must. favourite hotel interior? My living room at Florblanca was totally open to the terrace and jungle beyond, blurring the distinction between indoors and outdoors. don’t leave costa rica without... Ziplining through and over the rain forest, if you dare.

BethGarrabrantPhotographer“Costa Rica (Dive In).” (page 74).

you’ll never forget... Standing on the Whale’s Tale sandbar while watching giant waves crash onto the shores of Playa Uvita. There wasn’t another soul in sight. It was like being on the edge of a deserted island. worth a taste The fish tacos at Rancho Pacifico are savoury perfection. Try to get a corner table for the best view of the Whale’s Tale. costa rica requirement? You must relax! where the wild things are Howler monkeys and toucans are all around you, but photographing wildlife can be tricky without knowing where to look. Hotel staff members will likely know where and when they’re most visible.

Martha Camarillo Photographer“New Masters” (page 80).

while in flanders, you were most moved by... Ghent, Belgium. The people there are effortlessly dressed and full of life, and art and history lie around every corner. I ate at Belga Queen, where waitstaff wore Viktor & Rolf–style aprons—even that was inspiring! great new find Ra, a concept store in Antwerp, showcases Belgian fashion designers and has a terrific café with a genius chef. unforgettable trip moment? Breakfast by candlelight in the beautiful dining room at Chambres d’Hôtes Hôtel Verhaegen, in Ghent. I felt like I had time-travelled to another century. dream euro trip Helsinki, Finland, flies under the radar as far as design goes. I want to see its fashion scene.

Contributorswe inspire you make it happen

Inspiring everything you wantto be

A MEDIA TRANSASIA PUBLICATION

To subscribe call 91-9899414369/91-124-4759616-17E-mail: [email protected]. For online subscriptions Log on to www.mediatransasiaindia.com

Better Homes and Gardens has been a comprehensive guide for the smart & stylish Indian woman. Now your favourite magazine comes packed with more information than ever before on entertaining ideas, health, living, fashion, beauty, parenting and much more.

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The Wild Heart of BELIZE

Set within the vast rain forest between the Maya Mountains and the Caribbean Sea,

a 12-suite lodge is taking agritourism to a thrilling new level. Farm-to-table, meet

jungle-to-table. By Shane MitchellPhotographed by Tara Donne

Mail

Exotic Locales

Shuteye SolutionsI was so happy to come across the unusual piece on jet lag [“ The Cure for Jet Lag’] in the pages of your September issue amid all the lovely destination pieces. I am a seasoned long-haul traveller and so I read the piece with keen interest. My strategy is to sleep on the fl ight no matter what time of day or night I board. I never leave unfi nished work for a long fl ight and look upon that time as movie or snooze time. So no matter what time I arrive at my fi nal destination, I have some sleep under my belt. From reading the article, I realized that everyone has their own way of dealing with jet lag, so I thought I’d share mine with T+L’s readers as well.

—DIGA M BE R SI NGH, C H A N DIGA R H

fancy dress” pictures that I am tired of seeing. Nagas are much more than that and I can proudly say that you have shown a slice of real life from Nagaland. Thanks.

—AY E N L A AO, KOL K ATA

Bon AppetitThe Food Issue was a real treat for a foodie like me and I thoroughly enjoyed all the varied theme articles throughout your September issue. So engrossed was I in the content that I almost didn’t notice that you had redesigned the magazine. It was when I saw the T+L Decoder story “Our Defi nitive Guide to Buenos Aires” that I realized something was diff erent. The look-feel is crisp and the content, as usual is A-class. I specially enjoyed “The Traveller’s Guide to Tea” and the shopping tips in “Jewels of Rajasthan”. I also liked the way The Eat List has been packaged as you can easily pull it out and carry it with you when you travel.

—GAYAT R I H U DA, M UM BA I

best pubs across the country as well, as many of us like to discover new watering holes, specially, on our travels.

—G.R . N I NA N, BA NGA L OR E

Poised Pictures I was pleasantly surprised to come across a fabulous showcase of Naga life [“ The Land of the Nagas’] in the pages of Travel + Leisure India & South Asia last month. The photographer seems to have captured beautifully both the old and the new that coexist in my home state. It is refreshing to see such a realistic portrayal rather than the “tribals in

Keepsake Congratulations on turning six Travel + Leisure India & South Asia! I loved the cover of your anniversary issue as it was unusual and refreshingly diff erent on the newsstand. As usual, the issue was packed with a lot of information that I have only managed to skim through, but I have kept the issue to read over the next few months, specially the Eat List, which will be extremely helpful for me as I travel domestically a lot for work and am always looking for new places to check out. I have one grouse though. I wish you would cover the

Thanks to the pages of Travel + Leisure India & South Asia I have been introduced to the most amazing destinations and properties. A case in point was your feature on Belize [“The Wild Heart of Belize”] in the sixth anniversary issue.

Tell T+LSend your letters to [email protected] and let us know your thoughts on recent stories. Letters chosen for publication may be edited for clarity and space.

SUBSCRIPTIONS To subscribe call Gurgaon: 0124-4759616-17, 09899414369, Fax: 0124-4759550; Mumbai: 022-42467777, Fax: 022-26053710; Bangalore: 080-22219578, Fax: 080-22243428; Chennai: Call or Fax: 044-28141816; Kolkata: Call or Fax: 033-22874298; E-mail: [email protected]; Web: www.mediatransasiaindia.com.

—ROH I N I J H A , GU RGAON

Corrigendum: In the article “Mauritius on a Plate” the name Contance Le Prince Maurice appeared incorrectly. The error is regretted.

Readying the terrace for dinner at Belcampo Lodge, in Belize. Opposite: Local produce sold at the farmers’ market in nearby Punta Gorda.

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TR AV E L+LE ISU RE S E P T E M B E R 2012 00

RadarNews. Finds. Opinions. Obsessions.

On Our

Ilaria Venturini Fendi feels right

at home on her organic farm

near Rome.

Ilaria Venturini Fendi may be a scion of the Roman fashion dynasty known for its leather handbags and furs. But for her, luxury is I Casali del Pino, the organic farm she owns 30 minutes from Rome, where she’s opening an agriturismo this fall. The cosy inn’s 19 rustic-chic rooms are furnished with wrought-iron beds, salvaged tiles, and under-fl oor geothermal heating. The eco ethic is nothing new for Fendi: her accessories company, Carmina Campus —which is also run from the farm—creates totes out of “upcycled” materials (venetian blinds; mosquito nets). There’s a restaurant serving dishes such as lemon-ricotta ravioli with pine-nut pesto. And the pecorino cheese on the menu? That’s courtesy of Fendi’s own fl ock of Sardinian sheep. 39-06/3089-5688. $$ —valerie waterhouse

GREEN ACRES

debut

Photographed by Monika Höfl er

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Come October, and the cultural calendar ignites across India. We bring you a round-up of the best dance performances, photography exhibitions and festivals to catch this season.

Fabulous Festivals

PhotographyIn a unique sponsorship, Italian luxury brand Tod’s and photography gallery Tasveer present Maimouna Guerresi’s “Inner Space” (October 18-28; Italian Cultural Centre, 50-E, Chandragupta Marg, Delhi; tods.com; tasveerarts.com). Guerresi’s India-inspired works are marvels of craftsmanship. The exhibit will later travel to Bangalore, Kolkata, and Mumbai. � Tasveer, this time in partnership with Swiss horologerie brand Vacheron Constantin celebrates “Divine Moments” by Raghu Rai (Mumbai, October 20-29; Bangalore, December 7-28; Ahmedabad, March 1-10, 2013; vacheron-constantin.com). Rai’s images document historical events, reveal the variety of the landscape and freeze private encounters. DanceScotland’s principal contemporary dance company Scottish Dance Theatre (October 18-November 4; scottishdancetheatre.com) will be touring through Chennai, Bangalore, Delhi and Kolkata to undertake performances and deliver workshops. The repertoire will feature DOG choreographed by Hofesh Shechter; Luxuria choreographed by Liv Lorent; and Drift choreographed by James Wilton—highlighting a range of diff erent approaches to dance.

TheatreThe Old World Theatre Festival (October 12-21; Stein Auditorium, India Habitat Centre; Delhi; 91-11/2468-2001; habitatworld.com; tickets available on bookmyshow.com) is back for the 11th year. The stellar line-up opens with Mahesh Dattani’s Where Did I Leave My Purdah, directed by Lilette Dubey. The highlights: The Bureaucrat—a comedy by Anubav Pal, directed by Rahul da Cunha; Nothing Like Lear, directed by Rajat Kapoor; and Nandita Das’ directorial stage debut—Between the Lines.Multi-discipline The 6th edition of the Delhi International Arts Festival (October 27-November 10; diaf.in) showcases dance, theatre, fi lms, cuisine, art, literature, poetry, folk music, western music, and more. With acts from across the world performing across 45 venues—from theatres like Kamani Auditorium and Siri Fort to Select Citywalk mall and Blue Frog—the extravaganza will unite Delhi’s art and culture afi cionados. MusicAlso back for the sixth consecutive year the Jodhpur RIFF (October 26-30; jodhpurfolkfestival.org) celebrates folk music. Mehrangarh Fort makes the setting for performances from Australia, Colombia, Sri Lanka, Turkey and India of course. —by samai singh


McLeod Ganj is gearing up to host the fi rst Dharamshala International Film Festival (November 1-4; diff .co.in; tickets available on bookmyshow.com). Conceptualized by acclaimed fi lmmakers Ritu Sarin and Tenzing Sonam and presented through their trust White Crane Arts & Media, the festival will showcase around 20 contemporary independent fi lms from across the

globe comprising documentaries, shorts and feature fi lms. Look out for: Egyptian/Danish fi lmmakers Karim el-Hakim and Omar Shargawi’s 1/2 Revolution, a personal account from the frontlines of the Arab Spring in Tahrir Square; Guy Davidi’s Five Broken Cameras; and the world premiere of When Hari Got Married, a feature fi lm directed by Sarin and Sonam.

MOVIES IN THE MOUNTAINS

f ilm

Clockwise from top: A Scottish Dance Theatre perfomance; works from Maimouna Guerresi’s “Inner Space” exhibit; at Jodhpur RIFF; Subodh Maskara and Nandita Das perform at The Old World Theatre Festival; at Delhi International Arts Festival.

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q&a

Made in the MedT+L U.S.’s Laura Begley Bloom surveys new design-

statement properties from Marseille to Majorca.

Wherever Aman goes, the style tribe slavishly follows. And just when you thought there were no more variations on the word aman, the trailblazing hotel company has opened Amanzoe (amanresorts.com; $$$$) , in a remote area of Greece’s Peloponnese peninsula . With refl ecting pools, soaring marble walls, and panoramic views, architect Ed Tuttle’s pared-down sanctuary strikes a balance between serenity and drama. + Another disciple of minimalism, Jean-François Bodin—who created Paris’s Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine—brings his trademark restraint to Porto-Vecchio, the St.-Tropez of Corsica. At the waterfront La Plage Casadelmar (designhotels.com; $$$$), he has crafted 15 rooms out of volcanic rock and 300-year-old oaks. + On the Spanish island of Majorca, the Jumeirah Port Soller Hotel & Spa (jumeirah.com; $$$) is intended to stimulate the senses, from the approach through orange groves and the hand massages at check-in to the 120 rooms with fl oor-to-ceiling windows, most overlooking the sea. + Contrast that with the latest eff ort from Philippe Starck: Mama Shelter Marseille (mamashelter.com; $) . Smack in the centre of the newly buzzy city , the hotel is loaded with in-your-face Starck whimsy—graffi tied chalkboard ceilings; pool toys over the bar . Love it? Hate it? Up to you, but we do like the rates, starting at USD 166. + Hitting a diff erent note is the Monastero Santa Rosa (monasterosantarosa.com; $$$$) , on Italy’s Amalfi Coast. It’s the passion project of Bianca Sharma, who took over a converted 17th-century cliff -top monastery, fi lling the 20 rooms with antiques collected during her travels. The result is more handmade than designer-polished, but if it was good enough for the fi rst guests, Prince Albert II and Princess Charlene of Monaco, then it’s good enough for us. �

BRENDON ELLIOT

Brendon Elliot, V.P. sales & resort marketing, Venetian Macau Ltd. shares with T+L the details on Macau’s most ambitious development, Sands Cotai Central—an integrated resort development that is poised to change the hospitality business in Macau. Plus, his penchant for travelling to o� eat destinations.

Integrated Appeal Sands Cotai Central, an integrated resort on Macau’s Cotai Strip is a hospitality project that encompasses the luxurious Conrad Macao, the fi ve-star Sheraton Macao and the accessible Holiday Inn Macao. Sands Cotai Central has put within reach a new level of entertainment, dining and shopping at various price points so more people can discover the Cotai Strip.

Come December a bridge will connect the Venetian, the Four Seasons and Sands Cotai Central making it the world’s largest integrated city enabling guests from fi ve hotels to interact seamlessly—bringing together 9,000 rooms, 600 luxury duty-free stores, 70 food and beverage outlets, four casinos and endless entertainment.Hot Spots Over the last 20 years I have discovered and experienced over a 100 destinations for both business and leisure but my favourites are:

Scandinavia, in particular the west coast archipelago islands for their laid-back nature; North West Coast of Western Australia for its outback appeal; Hoi An, Vietnam for its intimacy and unspoilt charm; the secluded Reunion Island located in the Indian Ocean between Mauritius and Madagascar; and Namibia for its desert safaris. But I also love world-class cities like New York and Sydney for their energy.Favourite Airline As a former employee, I’m partial to Virgin Atlantic. It represents innovation, empowerment and the fl exibility to use your creativity and personality. I also fi nd that Singapore Airlines is the most consistent airline.Top Business Lounge Virgin Atlantic’s Clubhouse in London Heathrow is funky and fresh and boasts of a trendy bar, world-class dining and a Cowshed Spa.

The bar at Mama Shelter Marseille comes complete with foosball.

The pool at La Plage

Casadelmar, in Corsica.

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NConsidering butter chicken is the most popular dish on British Airways (ba.com) fl ights, it makes sense that Indian customer preference should dictate their in-fl ight menu. British Airways in collaboration with Oberoi Flight Services has refreshed their in-fl ight menu on routes from India making it more refl ective of Indian tastes and seasonal off erings. The revamped on-board menu features mouth-watering delights like salmon and crab meat parcel, pan seared prawns, kareli roganjosh and honey glazed ham.

THIS JUST INshop

JODHPURI FLAVOUR

culture

With so many options on this season’s arts calendar, how’s a traveller to choose? Here are four standouts.

The Know ListOpera Milan’s fabled Teatro alla Scala devotes most of this season to titans Giuseppe Verdi and Richard Wagner, both of whom celebrate their bicentennials in 2013. Wagner’s Lohengrin kicks off the party in a new production starring tenor Jonas Kaufmann, who looks and sounds like a Wagnerian god. Dec. 7–27; teatroallascala.org. + Theatre Jessica Chastain, known for her Oscar-nominated turn in The Help, comes to Broadway in the title role of The Heiress, adapted from Henry

James’s Washington Square. David Strathairn, Downton Abbey’s Dan Stevens, and director Moisés Kaufman (I Am My Own Wife) round out the pedigreed production. Opens Nov. 1; theheiress onbroadway.com. + Art “Impressionism and Fashion,” a groundbreaking exhibition at the Musée d’Orsay, in Paris, will consider the relationship between Manet, Degas, Caillebotte, and other painters and the then-emerging fashion industry, pairing Impressionist masterpieces with rarely exhibited fi nery of 19th-

century Parisians. Through Jan. 20; musee-orsay.fr. + Dance American Ballet Theatre star David Hallberg is also a premier danseur at Moscow’s Bolshoi Ballet. It’s an intriguing partnership: the Russian company is legendary for its bravura style, while Hallberg is a paragon of classical restraint. See the results of the cross-pollination this season, when Hallberg dances signature roles in Swan Lake and Jewels. Through Dec.; bolshoi.ru. —LESLIE CA MHI, BILL ROSENFIELD, A ND PE TER W EBSTER

twist. Using inspirations from Jodhpur’s royal legacy, the Umaid Bhawan Palace, the arts and crafts and of course the indigo, azure, cobalt and lapis houses that give the city its name, they have created a range of funky tees for men, women and children, along with home products like coasters and coffee mugs. The signature

products will also be retailed at Umaid Bhawan Palace and the Mehrangarh Museum Shop in Jodhpur.

With Royal Jodhpur Play Clan (Shop No. 4, Libra Towers, Hill Rd.; Bandra (West), Mumbai; 91-22/2640-1675; theplayclan.com; Rs 345 upwards) pays an ode to the Rajasthani city this season. The design-oriented brand has collaborated with the Mehrangarh Museum Trust to give the Blue City Play Clans’s quirky, signature


tionsal hawan crafts digo,pis

ave unky

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MUST GOBANYAN TREE

LANG CÔ

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A. Mumbai B. Havana C. New York City D. Tokyo E. Bangkok F. London G. Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia H. Delhi I. Vancouver

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Hands off! Here, taxi doors open and shut automatically.

By law, these drivers must know every street in town.

Night owls take note: cabs tack on a 50 percent surcharge from midnight to 6 a.m.

The definition of onomatopoeia? Tuk-tuk.

The line, “I’m walkin’ here!” brought this town’s cabs to a halt in 1969’s Midnight Cowboy.

If you’ve ridden in this motorcycle-powered two-seater,

don’t tell Uncle Sam.

A move toward hybrid taxis is increasing this city’s odds of becoming the greenest in the world by 2020. Travelling a short distance? You can share a taxi here.

...to the city

ling a short distance? You can share a taxi here.

55

By law,e

Match the

taxi...

Heart-stopping cab rides are universal, but the cars themselves? Not so much. See if you can pair these hacks

with their hometowns. By Nina Fedrizzi

Run on CNG this three-wheeler is the quickest way to weave through traffic.

with their hometowns. By Nina Fedr

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9

s must known town.

Night owls take note: cabs tacsurcharge from midnigh

The line, “I’m walkin’ here!” brought this town’scabs to a halt in 1969’s Midnight Cowboy.

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1 Tricolour wing tip, USD 750, Robert Clergerie.

2 Patent-leather brogue with rubber sole, USD 435, AGL.

3 Leather and calf-hair wing tip, USD 660, Fratelli Rossetti.

4 Two-tone goat-leather oxford, USD 560, Strenesse Gabriele Strehle.

5 Polished-leather shoe, USD 790, Derek Lam.

6 Monochrome leather oxford, USD 405, Longchamp.

The classic oxford is the women’s shoe of the moment—chic, timeless, and sturdy enough for the long haul.

Going Brogue

Photographed by Levi Brown Fashion Director: Mimi Lombardo

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Photographed by Buff Strickland 26 O C TO B E R 2012 TRAVEL+LE ISURE

street st yle

What’s happening in the Lone Star State’s capital of cool? Just ask the locals. By Jessie Bandy

Austin, Texas

1 Callie HernandezAssistant manager, Maya Star boutique“The Woodland restaurant (1716 S. Congress Ave.; woodlandaustin.com; $$) is like my second home. I always get the stuff ed tomato with Asiago cream sauce.”

4 Joshua BingamanFounder, Progress Coff ee“I’m a sucker for the new Easy Tiger (709 E. Sixth St.; easytigeraustin.com), a bakery and beer garden tucked away in downtown. The pretzels are awesome!”

2 Nils Juul-HansenProducer-director“On hot evenings, take a dip in Barton Springs (2201 Barton Springs Rd.), a natural limestone pool that holds steady at a cool 20 degrees Celsius. Free swim, from 9 to 10 p.m., is particularly fun.”

5 Ed Hughey and Kerri Keaton HugheyFounders, Wellgro Co.“Catch a movie at Violet Crown (434 W. Second St.; violetcrowncinema.com), an art-house theatre with reserved seats and a full- service café.”

3Kiah DensonArtist“Shop at Schatzelein (1713 S. Fir st St.; schatzeleinaustin.com) for vintage trinkets and pieces from regional artisans. There’s something for every one, at every price point.”

6 Shannon HollisCo-owner, Method Hair salon“The mango-habanero margarita at Takoba (1411 E. Seventh St.; takobarestaurant.com; $$) is a must—sweet, sour, and spicy. Perfection.” ✚

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28 O C TO B E R 2012 TRAVEL+LE ISURERAVEL+LE ISURE

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The woman who gives luxury goods department store Bergdorf Goodman its distinctive flair shares her on-the-road routine.

Linda Fargo

“If I don’t look right, then I just don’t feel right,” says Linda Fargo, senior vice president of women’s fashion, store design, and presentation at New York City’s iconic department store. Which is why she packs more than she needs for her jaunts to European runway shows and vacations on the Italian Riviera. One tip: she packs clothes on hangers in plastic dry-cleaning bags inside her large T. Anthony case. “Almost nothing gets wrinkled,” she swears. Her go-to ensemble includes J Brand Maverick skinny jeans (USD 268), a black stretch-wool blazer from the Row (USD 1,150), and an extra-roomy purse—the one she’s holding is by VBH (USD 3,750). And contrary to what you might expect, Fargo rarely comes home with personal acquisitions. As she puts it, “I’m so shopped out, I don’t really buy a lot.” —RACHEL FELDER

“I love leopard. It’s a bit of a

uniform for me. This Chloé coat

is great,” she says.

Fargo skips heels, opting for Roger Vivier

booties (USD 995), which she “can get in and out

of quickly.”

Inside this Goyard tote (designed for Bergdorf’s 111th

anniversary ) Fargo carries her essentials: red lipstick from YSL, Natura Bissé eye

cream, and a bar from La Maison du

Chocolat.

Fargo packs T. Anthony

luggage (from USD 695), checking

one bag and carry ing the other

on board.

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food

Chennai’s favourite south Indian restaurant, Southern Spice is back for an encore. A treasure trove of traditional recipes are served up in a lavish setting. By Roopa Pai

Flavours of the Royal South

While tales of the orgiastic gastronomic

excesses of the nawabs of Awadh and the maharanas of Rajputana are legion, and much is made of the refi ned tastes and fl avours of the Mughal kitchen, little is known of the food habits of the more austere kings and queens of the southern Indian peninsula. In its newest avatar, unveiled less than six months ago, the iconic Southern Spice restaurant at Chennai’s Taj Coromandel attempts to change all that. Not quite by bringing you historically

authentic royal food, but by making you feel like a royal when you dine with them.

Consider the setting. Silverleaf-clad pillars rise out of grey granite pedestals around the perimeter of the main restaurant space, creating a parikrama (circumambulation) path reminiscent of those in every south Indian temple. Highly carved wooden panels blanket the ceiling and the walls, punctuated by vivid murals depicting royal scenes, recreated from their originals in various palaces across the south. Tables are set with specially

designed silver- and gold-plated tableware. In place of chandeliers, real fi res burn in bronze wall sconces. It’s all a bit over-the-top—a glorious, extravagant palace-temple mash-up, but there is no denying that it succeeds in transporting you back to a more decadent—and more honest time, when Indian design sense was not dictated or judged by western thought and opinion.

The food is another revelation. Again, it is honest food—the recipes sourced originally from the homes of local people across the four southern states, and then painstakingly worked on to polish them into gourmet shape, both in terms of execution and presentation. While old Southern Spice favourites like Allepey fi sh curry and kori gassi still make the cut, there is a fair bit of experimentation going on, with dishes like asparagus

paruppu usli (asparagus with lentils), scallop pepper stew, and chocolate puranam mousse (chocolate mousse fi lled with a coconut, lentil and jaggery mix) also featuring on the menu. In deference to Chennai’s coastal location, specialty seafood—lobster, soft-shelled crabs, calamari—make bravura appearances, and there is even a seafood thali on off er.

Other notables—a rasam menu (fi ve diff erent rasams, two of them non-vegetarian), food-wine pairings, and the many-course sadhya—a traditional pure vegetarian Brahmin meal—served ritualistically on banana leaves, only in one of the three private dining rooms.Southern Spice, Taj Coromandel, 37, Mahatma Gandhi Rd., Nungambakkam, Chennai; 91-44/6600-2827; tajhotels.com; meal for two Rs 4,000. ✚ C

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Kayar katti yerachi kola urnudai (fennel fl avoured lamb meat dumplings wrapped with banana fi bre)—a speciality from Thanjavur is a must-try .

The vegetarian thali at Southern Spice at Taj Coromandel, in Chennai. Le� : The restaurant's plush interiors.

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PROMOTION

An Executive Haven

Another world-class property by the MAYFAIR group, the MAYFAIR Convention in Bhubaneswar is the epitome of comfort and class. The perfect

corporate solution, this high-end property offers you a wide range of state-of-the-art facilities to meet your every need.

Whether it is a board meeting or a corporate get-together, a conference or a social function—MAYFAIR Convention is the ideal venue for you to play the amiable host. Your guests will reside in one of the 20 elegantly designed rooms for a luxurious experience. The spacious rooms come with a stylish work desk, mini-bar, DVD player and Wi-Fi connectivity among other standard amenities.

Dazzling with chandeliers and LED lighting, the Crystal Room, adds glamour to any function. Flexible stage arrangements, a seating capacity of over 600 people and drop down screens make this chic banquet perfect for any kind of meeting.

Located on the fi rst fl oor of the hotel, the Central Hall, with its contemporary décor and a capacity of around 1100 guests, is the largest banquet in eastern India. This elaborate venue with an ornate high ceiling, LED lighting arrangement, well decorated walls interspersed with modern paintings, carvings and artefacts is idyllic for formal corporate meetings, functions in the MICE segment, large professional assemblies or social gatherings.

Another important feature is the Board Room, which fi ts perfectly with those brainstorming sessions. The Board

Room provides its 30 guests with audio-visual equipment, individual table mounted microphones, plug and play electronic platforms for laptops and other gadgets along with Wi-Fi broadband.

The third fl oor of the hotel has the Meeting Room which can accommodate 18 members. The business centre is on the lobby level and is equipped with all the necessary facilities to support your meetings. From preparations for your corporate presentations to sending out bouquet to your guests, the Business Centre will ensure that you remain stress-free.

It’s not just these world-class amenities that make MAYFAIR Convention a hotel you would like to come back to again and again. The property also has a large base kitchen and two pantries to cater to in-house business executives as well as the banquet requirements.

A 24-hour restaurant-cum-bar on the third fl oor keeps guests satiated. A scrumptious breakfast is served between 7.30 a.m. to 10 a.m. The delectable lunch keeps you going through the day, while the lavish dinner buffet is the perfect way to end a long day.

Just a 15 minute drive from the Biju Patnaik domestic airport, the property is easily accessible. Situated in the heart of the city, the Bhubaneswar railway station is a mere eight kilometres away making MAYFAIR Convention incredibly easy to reach.

Each of these factors along with MAYFAIR’s warm and effi cient team ensures your stay becomes a cherished memory.

MAYFAIR Convention, 8-B, Jaydev Vihar, Bhubaneswar, Odisha - 751 013, India.Phone: +91 674 2360214/15

Fax: +91 674 2360 136 www.mayfairhotels.com. Email: [email protected]

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Spectacular art and design share the spotlight at these new additions to the culture map.

Opening Statements

amsterdam

Stedelijk MuseumA thorough renovation and expansion, unveiled this September, shows off the Stedelijk’s singular modern and postwar art as well as its renowned design collection. A highlight: Gerrit Rietveld’s 1926 Harrenstein Bedroom, as perfectly balanced as a Mondrian painting. stedelijk.nl.

cleveland

Museum of Contemporary ArtThis month, the 44-year-old MOCA Cleveland moves from a converted Sears store to a striking black-steel hexagon designed by Anglo-Persian architect Farshid Moussavi. It opens with a show by a roster of 16 international artists. mocacleveland.org.

oslo

Astrup Fearnley MuseetBy night, the sail-shaped glass roof of this new complex, designed by Renzo Piano, glows like a magic lantern. By day, it illuminates a private collection of contemporary art, with works by Cai Guo-Qiang, Cindy Sherman, and Olafur Eliasson. afmuseet.no.

philadelphia

Barnes FoundationWith its stunning new campus downtown, the Barnes—known for shaking up the way art is understood with its provocative arrangements of Renoirs and Matisses next to metal hinges and hooks—is helping visitors see Philly’s impressive arts scene in a new light. barnesfoundation.org .

rio de janeiro

Museu de Arte do Rio de JaneiroA centrepiece in the renewal of the once rundown historic port, MAR will occupy a Neoclassical palazzo, housing galleries showing Brazilian and international art. It opens this fall. museudeartedorio.org.br.–raul barreneche and leslie camhi

The Barnes Foundation, in Philadelphia, designed by Tod Williams Billie Tsien Architects.


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Radar

Clockwise from left: A treatment room at Six Senses Spa at Jaypee Golf & Spa Resort, Greater NOIDA; signature Six Senses amenities; the dedicated ladies lap pool.

The superb views on the drive from the Yorkshire moors to the Yorkshire Dales. Below: The stunning setting of the Harddraw Falls.

treatments rooms; lap pools, specialist rooms for Ayurveda, Thai, Colonic Hydrotherapy, Watsu; and a retail section that stocks Six Senses’ Signature skincare range; Amala-organic skincare range from Germany; and Subtle Energies-aromatherapy range from Australia, while the fi rst fl oor includes male and female hammams; a meditation cave; more treatment rooms; golfers treatment areas and a salon. “The Indian spa industry is slowly coming of age and we felt this was the right time to make our fi rst foray. The Jaypee Greens Golf & Spa Resort was an obvious choice for multiple reasons—the facility, the enormous space, the architecture, and the

The spa industry in Delhi-NCR has received a major boost with the debut of two of Asia’s leading spa proponents—Thailand-

based Six Senses Spa and Bali-based Mandara Spa. Though vastly diff erent in scale these pampering zones off er their guests the best of Asian and world therapies and are revolutionizing the city’s wellness landscape.

SIX SENSES SPAThe massive Six Senses Spa at Jaypee Greens Golf & Spa Resort, Greater NOIDA is spread over 90,000 square feet. I’m greeted with a warm namaste from the staff as I enter. The spa’s Ayurvedic

expert, Dr. Avinash R. Tiwari graciously off ers to show me around. Dr. Tiwari who recently returned to India after a stint in the Maldives informs me that the spa is built on the principles of an ancient Indian house with a courtyard and multiple water bodies (four of which can be used). The building is a testament to Six Senses’ legendary philosophy of sustainability—from the materials used, the distinctly local design features, to the organic garden that is the source of herbs, fruits and fl owers. Exploring the spa I discover the basement (active fl oor) is dedicated to the fi tness centre; yoga studio and an aerobics pool. The ground fl oor is home to the reception; consultation and

spas

Havens of Tranquillity

Two heavyweight Asian spa brands have recently unveiled their

rejuvenating outposts in the Delhi-NCR region. T+L investigates.

By Samai Singh

proximity to Delhi,” says Tracey Poole, spa director. “Our aim is to create a wellness destination oasis for city dwellers,” she adds. In keeping with their holistic mantra, the spa will soon unveil a Raw Food Restaurant. Raw food doesn’t literally mean uncooked—instead food is cooked at its optimum temperature of 42-46 degrees Celsius to obtain maximum benefi ts. “The hotel’s restaurant menus will also feature spa cuisine which will be indicated by the Six Senses logo, the calorifi c and nutrient value,” says Poole.

The extensive spa menu has over 140 treatments in 15 categories ranging from Locally Inspired therapies like Indian Secrets (Rs 5,900/80 minutes) to Massage Therapies like Six Senses Signature Massage (Rs 4,320/50 minutes) and Ayurveda for which Dr. Tiwari recommends a minimum seven-day retreat. Unable to decide, I turn to Poole who suggests I try the Sensory Spa Journey (Rs 5,900/80 minutes) that is performed by two therapists. My fi rst therapist, Mary escorts me to a cavernous treatment area where my second therapist Lisa is waiting. The room is aglow with fl ickering candles and my ritual begins with a foot-bath. Lisa and Mary use a body brush to stimulate my skin before commencing the non-traditional aromatherapy massage that uses long strokes and signature blends. I quickly become accustomed to their synchronized movements and fi nd myself drifting off . A cleansing facial ritual and a stress-relieving scalp massage are also part of the session—since I have a dull headache, this suits me. And before I know it my 80 minutes of bliss are up. Surajpur Kasna Rd., Greater NOIDA; 91-20/674-3440;jaypeehotels.com.

MANDARA SPAPullman Gurgaon Central Park is home to the city’s fi rst Mandara Spa. The wellness chain that originated in Bali, boasts of a presence that spans the globe—from the Bahamas to Fiji—they also operate spas aboard cruise liners. The brand honours the diversity of the culture it is immersed in but stays true to its Balinese traditions. “The USP of

From top: Signature spa ingredients at Mandara Spa at Pullman Gurgaon Central Park; preparing for a therapy at Six Senses Spa.

TR AV E L+LE ISU RE O C TO B E R 2012 35

the Mandara brand is our training, our authentic techniques and our traditions,” says Gunjan Chawla, spa manager. The spa has fi ve treatment areas including a double spa suite and a manicure and pedicure room. Each room is named after a fl ower—jasmine, rose, lotus, orchid and lily—the name is also translated in Sanskrit on the door’s nameplate.

As I enter the spa two stone elephants welcome me to the relaxation area. Currently the spa off ers the Mandara menu, a combination of unique packages like Ultimate Indulgence (155 minutes/ Rs 11,000) and body and face treatments with signature Mandara products.

“We use our in-house aromatherapy massage oil blends for our treatments and we even prepare natural ingredients like the coconut scrub, and items for the Pure Nature Facial in our spa kitchen,” adds Chawla. Towards the end of the year, the spa will feature award-winning therapies from the leading luxury British spa and skincare brand, Elmis.

The spa is renowned for their signature Mandara Massage (Rs 5,600/50 minutes) where two therapists working in sync combine fi ve massage styles—Japanese shiatsu, Thai, Hawaiian Lomi Lomi, Swedish and Balinese and the traditional Balinese Massage

The Mandara Spa brand honours the diversity of the culture it is immersed in but stays true to its Balinese traditions

(Rs 3,500/50 minutes), instead I decide to opt for the Warm Stone Massage (Rs 3,800/50 minutes) where the healing power of touch combines with the energy of the earth. After sipping on ginger tea, my therapist, Tenzen, whisks me away to a treatment room. Post a fl oral foot-bath where I choose to go with lavender oil, I’m ready to begin. The fi rst touch of the rocks on my skin feels unusual. Smooth, fl at basalt rocks are heated and used to glide over my body in long fl owing strokes and then placed on energy points to encourage healing. As Tenzen gets going I ease into the rhythm and the warmth courses through my body. My soothing experience ends with a steam followed by a shower using the invigorating Roger & Gallet Bois d’ Orange bath amenities. M.G. Rd., Sector 26, Delhi-Gurgaon Border, Gurgaon; 91-124/499-2049; pullmangurgaon.in ✚C

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10-Radar-SPA.indd 2-3 21/09/12 6:03 PM


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Radar

Clockwise from left: A treatment room at Six Senses Spa at Jaypee Golf & Spa Resort, Greater NOIDA; signature Six Senses amenities; the dedicated ladies lap pool.

The superb views on the drive from the Yorkshire moors to the Yorkshire Dales. Below: The stunning setting of the Harddraw Falls.

treatments rooms; lap pools, specialist rooms for Ayurveda, Thai, Colonic Hydrotherapy, Watsu; and a retail section that stocks Six Senses’ Signature skincare range; Amala-organic skincare range from Germany; and Subtle Energies-aromatherapy range from Australia, while the fi rst fl oor includes male and female hammams; a meditation cave; more treatment rooms; golfers treatment areas and a salon. “The Indian spa industry is slowly coming of age and we felt this was the right time to make our fi rst foray. The Jaypee Greens Golf & Spa Resort was an obvious choice for multiple reasons—the facility, the enormous space, the architecture, and the

The spa industry in Delhi-NCR has received a major boost with the debut of two of Asia’s leading spa proponents—Thailand-

based Six Senses Spa and Bali-based Mandara Spa. Though vastly diff erent in scale these pampering zones off er their guests the best of Asian and world therapies and are revolutionizing the city’s wellness landscape.

SIX SENSES SPAThe massive Six Senses Spa at Jaypee Greens Golf & Spa Resort, Greater NOIDA is spread over 90,000 square feet. I’m greeted with a warm namaste from the staff as I enter. The spa’s Ayurvedic

expert, Dr. Avinash R. Tiwari graciously off ers to show me around. Dr. Tiwari who recently returned to India after a stint in the Maldives informs me that the spa is built on the principles of an ancient Indian house with a courtyard and multiple water bodies (four of which can be used). The building is a testament to Six Senses’ legendary philosophy of sustainability—from the materials used, the distinctly local design features, to the organic garden that is the source of herbs, fruits and fl owers. Exploring the spa I discover the basement (active fl oor) is dedicated to the fi tness centre; yoga studio and an aerobics pool. The ground fl oor is home to the reception; consultation and

spas

Havens of Tranquillity

Two heavyweight Asian spa brands have recently unveiled their

rejuvenating outposts in the Delhi-NCR region. T+L investigates.

By Samai Singh

proximity to Delhi,” says Tracey Poole, spa director. “Our aim is to create a wellness destination oasis for city dwellers,” she adds. In keeping with their holistic mantra, the spa will soon unveil a Raw Food Restaurant. Raw food doesn’t literally mean uncooked—instead food is cooked at its optimum temperature of 42-46 degrees Celsius to obtain maximum benefi ts. “The hotel’s restaurant menus will also feature spa cuisine which will be indicated by the Six Senses logo, the calorifi c and nutrient value,” says Poole.

The extensive spa menu has over 140 treatments in 15 categories ranging from Locally Inspired therapies like Indian Secrets (Rs 5,900/80 minutes) to Massage Therapies like Six Senses Signature Massage (Rs 4,320/50 minutes) and Ayurveda for which Dr. Tiwari recommends a minimum seven-day retreat. Unable to decide, I turn to Poole who suggests I try the Sensory Spa Journey (Rs 5,900/80 minutes) that is performed by two therapists. My fi rst therapist, Mary escorts me to a cavernous treatment area where my second therapist Lisa is waiting. The room is aglow with fl ickering candles and my ritual begins with a foot-bath. Lisa and Mary use a body brush to stimulate my skin before commencing the non-traditional aromatherapy massage that uses long strokes and signature blends. I quickly become accustomed to their synchronized movements and fi nd myself drifting off . A cleansing facial ritual and a stress-relieving scalp massage are also part of the session—since I have a dull headache, this suits me. And before I know it my 80 minutes of bliss are up. Surajpur Kasna Rd., Greater NOIDA; 91-20/674-3440;jaypeehotels.com.

MANDARA SPAPullman Gurgaon Central Park is home to the city’s fi rst Mandara Spa. The wellness chain that originated in Bali, boasts of a presence that spans the globe—from the Bahamas to Fiji—they also operate spas aboard cruise liners. The brand honours the diversity of the culture it is immersed in but stays true to its Balinese traditions. “The USP of

From top: Signature spa ingredients at Mandara Spa at Pullman Gurgaon Central Park; preparing for a therapy at Six Senses Spa.


the Mandara brand is our training, our authentic techniques and our traditions,” says Gunjan Chawla, spa manager. The spa has fi ve treatment areas including a double spa suite and a manicure and pedicure room. Each room is named after a fl ower—jasmine, rose, lotus, orchid and lily—the name is also translated in Sanskrit on the door’s nameplate.

As I enter the spa two stone elephants welcome me to the relaxation area. Currently the spa off ers the Mandara menu, a combination of unique packages like Ultimate Indulgence (155 minutes/ Rs 11,000) and body and face treatments with signature Mandara products.

“We use our in-house aromatherapy massage oil blends for our treatments and we even prepare natural ingredients like the coconut scrub, and items for the Pure Nature Facial in our spa kitchen,” adds Chawla. Towards the end of the year, the spa will feature award-winning therapies from the leading luxury British spa and skincare brand, Elmis.

The spa is renowned for their signature Mandara Massage (Rs 5,600/50 minutes) where two therapists working in sync combine fi ve massage styles—Japanese shiatsu, Thai, Hawaiian Lomi Lomi, Swedish and Balinese and the traditional Balinese Massage

The Mandara Spa brand honours the diversity of the culture it is immersed in but stays true to its Balinese traditions

(Rs 3,500/50 minutes), instead I decide to opt for the Warm Stone Massage (Rs 3,800/50 minutes) where the healing power of touch combines with the energy of the earth. After sipping on ginger tea, my therapist, Tenzen, whisks me away to a treatment room. Post a fl oral foot-bath where I choose to go with lavender oil, I’m ready to begin. The fi rst touch of the rocks on my skin feels unusual. Smooth, fl at basalt rocks are heated and used to glide over my body in long fl owing strokes and then placed on energy points to encourage healing. As Tenzen gets going I ease into the rhythm and the warmth courses through my body. My soothing experience ends with a steam followed by a shower using the invigorating Roger & Gallet Bois d’ Orange bath amenities. M.G. Rd., Sector 26, Delhi-Gurgaon Border, Gurgaon; 91-124/499-2049; pullmangurgaon.in ✚C

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10-Radar-SPA.indd 2-3 21/09/12 6:03 PM


WorldMags.net



36 O C TO B E R 2012 TR AV E L+LE ISU RE Photographed by Rishad Saam Mehta

The Boeing 777s that British Airways fl ies on their Mumbai-London route are very silent aircrafts. The engine noise is so low that a few hours into

the fl ight, when the cabin lighting is at its dimmest and the passengers are comfortably asleep, even the subtlest of snores waft through the cabin. So all conversations are conducted in whispers. It was at this time, that one of the cabin attendants with whom I had struck up a conversation when I had gone to grab a snack in the galley, had whispered to me, that if I wanted to see story-book England, I just had to head towards Yorkshire. Since I had a

Maserati GranTurismo at my disposal for four days, it was the perfect reason to heed her advice.

London to Ampleforth, Yorkshire Moors (370 kilometres)I head north from London on a six-hour drive that starts off the four-lane M1-motorway and ends on roads that are barely four metres wide. The Carr House Farm, in the village of Ampleforth in the Yorkshire Moors—my fi rst bed and breakfast—sits pretty on rolling farmland with fi ne views. Anna Lupton, the lady of the house bustles out to meet me followed by her solitary cat who is perpetually wary of the 23 hunting

Radar

dr ive

dogs Jack, Anna’s husband, has. She serves me a hot cup of Yorkshire tea—a blend of Assam and Ceylon leaves—and some Yorkshire brack—a very yummy traditional tea loaf. Run your eyes over the recipe and amidst fl our, sugar and eggs you’ll come across a large cup of concentrated tea and half a cup of whisky or rum. Little doubt then, the brack fortifi ed me to set off exploring the surroundings. A kilometre down the road by the village of Wass is the sprawling ruin of the Byland Abbey. Walking amongst the remnants still gives a sense of the grandeur of its heyday.

Pickering to Goathland (50 minutes by rail)The next morning I drive the 29 kilometres from Ampleforth to Pickering to board an old-fashioned train and am soon chugging through some stunning scenery. The vintage steam engines on this line are operated by the North Yorkshire Moors Railway. They stop at quaint villages like Levisham, Goathland and Grosmont from where there are pretty walks across the Moors. I hop off at Goathland —the station that played Hogsmeade Station in the Harry Potter movies—and set off on the three kilometre walk to Beck Hole, a quaint village with a tiny pub called Birch Hall Inn where time has stood still but the food is freshly cooked and the Black Sheep ale is drawn straight from the cask.

Driving back I have the famous afternoon tea at the Black Swan’s Tearoom in Helmsley en route to Ampleforth. For the British, afternoon tea isn’t just a beverage—it’s an indulgent spread of fl uff y sandwiches, creamy pastries, and freshly baked scones, clotted cream and homemade jam.

Ampleforth to Hawes (129 kilometres along B roads)The next morning I bid the Lupton farm and the Moors goodbye and head west to the Yorkshire Dales. The GPS

From top: Afternoon cream tea at the

Black Swan in Helmsley; little

villages en route like Ramsgill are stone-

house and green-lawn affairs; Goathland

Station that played Hogsmeade Station

in the Harry Potter movies.

The superb views on the drive from the Yorkshire Moors to the

Yorkshire Dales, in England. Below: The stunning setting of

the Harddraw Falls.

Exploring YorkshireOn a leisurely four-day road expedition in an ultra-luxurious car Rishad Saam Mehta explores the verdant Yorkshire countryside,

samples some traditional fare and comes away charmed. STAY

Carr House FarmAmpleforth, York, North Yorkshire; 44-1347/868-526; carrhousefarm.co.uk; from USD 64 per person for bed and breakfast.Thorney Mire Barn Hawes, Wensleydale; 44-1969/666-122; thorneymirebarn.co.uk; from USD 88 per person for bed and breakfast.

EATWhite Swan PubYou should defi nitely eat a meal here while in Ampleforth. East End, Ampleforth; 44-1439/788-239; thewhiteswan-ampleforth.co.uk. The Black Swan HotelThe a� ernoon tea at Black Swan in Helmsley is an absolute must. Market Place, Helmsley; 44-1439/ 770-466; blackswan-helmsley.co.uk.Old Hill InnWhile at Hawes visit this Ingelton inn for a meal. Chapel-le-Dale, Ingleton; 44-1524/241256; oldhillinn.co.uk.

For more accommodation options and to see what all you can do and experience in Yorkshire visit yorkshire.com.

T+L Guide

Yorkshire,England

ALPMEFORTH

MASHAM

HAWES

GRASSINGTONMAP NOT IN SCALE

YORKSHIRE DALES

NATIONAL PARK

A61

A1�M�

A19

A170

A172

A66

A1

A19

NORTH YORK MOORS NATIONAL

PARK

GETTING THEREBritish Airways off ers two fl ights a day from both Delhi and Mumbai to London Heathrow. Visas are mandatory to visit the U.K. and the process can take up to a month. You can hire a car from London or take the train from Kings Cross Station to York.


10-Radar-Driving.indd 2-3 21/09/12 2:13 PM


WorldMags.net



36 O C TO B E R 2012 TR AV E L+LE ISU RE Photographed by Rishad Saam Mehta

The Boeing 777s that British Airways fl ies on their Mumbai-London route are very silent aircrafts. The engine noise is so low that a few hours into

the fl ight, when the cabin lighting is at its dimmest and the passengers are comfortably asleep, even the subtlest of snores waft through the cabin. So all conversations are conducted in whispers. It was at this time, that one of the cabin attendants with whom I had struck up a conversation when I had gone to grab a snack in the galley, had whispered to me, that if I wanted to see story-book England, I just had to head towards Yorkshire. Since I had a

Maserati GranTurismo at my disposal for four days, it was the perfect reason to heed her advice.

London to Ampleforth, Yorkshire Moors (370 kilometres)I head north from London on a six-hour drive that starts off the four-lane M1-motorway and ends on roads that are barely four metres wide. The Carr House Farm, in the village of Ampleforth in the Yorkshire Moors—my fi rst bed and breakfast—sits pretty on rolling farmland with fi ne views. Anna Lupton, the lady of the house bustles out to meet me followed by her solitary cat who is perpetually wary of the 23 hunting

Radar

dr ive

dogs Jack, Anna’s husband, has. She serves me a hot cup of Yorkshire tea—a blend of Assam and Ceylon leaves—and some Yorkshire brack—a very yummy traditional tea loaf. Run your eyes over the recipe and amidst fl our, sugar and eggs you’ll come across a large cup of concentrated tea and half a cup of whisky or rum. Little doubt then, the brack fortifi ed me to set off exploring the surroundings. A kilometre down the road by the village of Wass is the sprawling ruin of the Byland Abbey. Walking amongst the remnants still gives a sense of the grandeur of its heyday.

Pickering to Goathland (50 minutes by rail)The next morning I drive the 29 kilometres from Ampleforth to Pickering to board an old-fashioned train and am soon chugging through some stunning scenery. The vintage steam engines on this line are operated by the North Yorkshire Moors Railway. They stop at quaint villages like Levisham, Goathland and Grosmont from where there are pretty walks across the Moors. I hop off at Goathland —the station that played Hogsmeade Station in the Harry Potter movies—and set off on the three kilometre walk to Beck Hole, a quaint village with a tiny pub called Birch Hall Inn where time has stood still but the food is freshly cooked and the Black Sheep ale is drawn straight from the cask.

Driving back I have the famous afternoon tea at the Black Swan’s Tearoom in Helmsley en route to Ampleforth. For the British, afternoon tea isn’t just a beverage—it’s an indulgent spread of fl uff y sandwiches, creamy pastries, and freshly baked scones, clotted cream and homemade jam.

Ampleforth to Hawes (129 kilometres along B roads)The next morning I bid the Lupton farm and the Moors goodbye and head west to the Yorkshire Dales. The GPS

From top: Afternoon cream tea at the

Black Swan in Helmsley; little

villages en route like Ramsgill are stone-

house and green-lawn affairs; Goathland

Station that played Hogsmeade Station

in the Harry Potter movies.

The superb views on the drive from the Yorkshire Moors to the

Yorkshire Dales, in England. Below: The stunning setting of

the Harddraw Falls.

Exploring YorkshireOn a leisurely four-day road expedition in an ultra-luxurious car Rishad Saam Mehta explores the verdant Yorkshire countryside,

samples some traditional fare and comes away charmed. STAY

Carr House FarmAmpleforth, York, North Yorkshire; 44-1347/868-526; carrhousefarm.co.uk; from USD 64 per person for bed and breakfast.Thorney Mire Barn Hawes, Wensleydale; 44-1969/666-122; thorneymirebarn.co.uk; from USD 88 per person for bed and breakfast.

EATWhite Swan PubYou should defi nitely eat a meal here while in Ampleforth. East End, Ampleforth; 44-1439/788-239; thewhiteswan-ampleforth.co.uk. The Black Swan HotelThe a� ernoon tea at Black Swan in Helmsley is an absolute must. Market Place, Helmsley; 44-1439/ 770-466; blackswan-helmsley.co.uk.Old Hill InnWhile at Hawes visit this Ingelton inn for a meal. Chapel-le-Dale, Ingleton; 44-1524/241256; oldhillinn.co.uk.

For more accommodation options and to see what all you can do and experience in Yorkshire visit yorkshire.com.

T+L Guide

Yorkshire,England

ALPMEFORTH

MASHAM

HAWES

GRASSINGTONMAP NOT IN SCALE

YORKSHIRE DALES

NATIONAL PARK

A61

A1�M�

A19

A170

A172

A66

A1

A19

NORTH YORK MOORS NATIONAL

PARK

GETTING THEREBritish Airways off ers two fl ights a day from both Delhi and Mumbai to London Heathrow. Visas are mandatory to visit the U.K. and the process can take up to a month. You can hire a car from London or take the train from Kings Cross Station to York.


10-Radar-Driving.indd 2-3 21/09/12 2:13 PM


WorldMags.net



Radar


suggests I drive on the A170, A1 and A684—all wide highways.

The previous evening I had met Cuthbert Riddleton, a local farmer, who had parked his muddied old Land Rover next to my Maserati in the parking lot of the White Swan pub and had pronounced, with enough solemnity to make the local vicar sound frivolous, “Thus meet beauty and the beast,” before planting himself on his favourite stool at the bar. It was he who suggested that I ignore the GPS and wrote down a route for me on a paper napkin. “Laddie” he said between slow and savoury sips of his Theakston Grouse Beater ale, “drive your beast along this route to Hawes and you will bless me to kingdom come.” I cursed him a little then for implying that his battered Land Rover was the “beauty” of the parking lot but I am also every grateful to him. The drive through the villages of Masham, Lofthouse, Ramsgill, Pateley Bridge, Hebdon, Grassington and Kettlewell has me beaming with delight. I drive along classic British B roads hemmed by craggy stonewalls and curvaceous country lanes and through some of the most striking scenery in England. To top it all it’s a lovely sunny day.

My fi rst stop in the Yorkshire Dales is at the Aysgarth Falls where the famous stick fi ght in the popular movie Robin Hood: Prince of Thieves was fi lmed. Later that day I trek to the Harddraw Falls, which have a very dramatic setting. It’s here that Maid Marian coyly looks on as Robin Hood frolics in the pool, at the base of the falls. North of the Falls is the Buttertubs Pass, again fantastic to drive through with soul-satisfying views at every turn. The name comes from the fact that natural, narrow and deep pits are a geographical feature here and in the past (before refrigeration) farmers’ wives would store butter tubs in the deep and cool pits. I spend the next day exploring Hawes which had a street market, visiting the Wensleydale cheese factory and going on a splendid walk across the Dales from Hawes to the Appersett Viaduct.

As I was driving back to London after my all-too-short trip to Yorkshire. I realised that the BA fl ight attendant had been right; this indeed was the England of the story books because often during those four days my mind went back to the pages of the Enid Blyton books that kept me steadfast company during my childhood. ✚

From top: Traffic on an English B road; blackcurrant jam for sale at the Hawes Farmer’s Market, held every Tuesday.

10-Radar-Driving.indd 6 21/09/12 2:14 PM


WorldMags.net



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An amalgamation of the rich culture and tradition of Gujarat, the Rann Utsav (December 15th, 2012 to January 31st, 2013) celebrates the vibrant colours of Kutch.

This ecologically and ethnically diverse land comes to life each winter with the breathtaking salt desert in the background. This annual month-long carnival organized at various locations within

Kutch takes you on a tour of the natural grandeur of the state.

The festival provides one with a chance to experience Kutch at it best with a plethora of activities. You can be enchanted by the folk dance performances or sit back and enjoy the music, go for a camel safari or shop to your heart’s content at the handicraft market. An

entire tented village is set up with both a/c and non-a/c tents to choose from.

A COLOURFUL MIXOne of India’s largest districts, Kutch, surrounded by the Arabian Sea is a Pandora’s box of crafts and traditions. Its rich history dating from the Harappan civilization that thrived at Dholavira to the Jadeja Rajputs whose rule

endowed the state with forts, palaces, temples and other beautiful monuments, make Kutch a historian’s delight. Its diverse history and culture can be visited during the carnival that takes you around the grand desert.

The arid grasslands of the Banni host the majestic display of the traditional architecture of Kutch. A visit to this area will provide you with the authentic taste of Kutchi cuisine. Along with a magnifi cent display of talent on this platform, breathtaking folk dance performances are also organized under the silver moonlight. The fairs held on the banks of the lakes bring out the zeal and uniqueness of the people celebrating the festival. A blend of craftsmanship, enthusiasm, and hospitality defi ne the Rann Utsav to the fullest.

HANDICRAFTS—A WANDERER’S DELIGHTThe land of excellent craftsmanship and intricate handicrafts, Kutch is full of beautiful surprises. Best described as the “cradle of craftsmanship,” various styles of weaving, block-printing, bandhini tie and dye, Rogan-painting, embroidery, pottery, wood-carving, metal-crafts, and shell-work can be found here. The craft has been carried down from generation to generation and this traditional way of creating masterpieces makes each item stand out. Embroidered items, patchwork, terracotta, pen knives and nut crackers form some of the main handicrafts of the district.

The women of this region create some of the most beautiful items with their mirrored embroidery. Traditionally created by the women for themselves and their families during festivals, these are now a craze all over. Hand-printed textiles are also famous here. The Ajrakh prints, Batik prints and Rogan painting are among the most sought-after prints.

Another very important feature from this district is wood-carving. The Harijan people living in Dumaro and Ludia carve various utensils out of wood. Teak wood and the locally available bahuv wood are usually used to prepare these artefacts.

The endless talent of the people of Kutch is again showcased through their beautiful paintings. Rabari and Harijan women create wonderful pieces in their homes. The mud walls of their houses are adorned with designs using a clay mixture. Mor (peacock) popat (parrot) anghadi (fi ngers) vinjno (fan) are some of the common designs.

Known for its superior silverwork, you can take home intricately carved jewellery as a memento of this picturesque place and its warm people. Penknives and nutcrackers are other loved souvenirs. The artisans that once made the swords for the royals now produce these penknives making them all the more special. The cowherds of Kutch used bells to call their fl ocks from far. These bells had a unique sound due to the individual tuning of each bell. These bells with a wooden tongue are a big rage among collectors.

PROMOTION

RANN UTSAVTHE MAGICAL DESERT EXTRAVAGANZA

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gujrat-promo.indd 2-3 25/09/12 3:56 PM


WorldMags.net



An amalgamation of the rich culture and tradition of Gujarat, the Rann Utsav (December 15th, 2012 to January 31st, 2013) celebrates the vibrant colours of Kutch.

This ecologically and ethnically diverse land comes to life each winter with the breathtaking salt desert in the background. This annual month-long carnival organized at various locations within

Kutch takes you on a tour of the natural grandeur of the state.

The festival provides one with a chance to experience Kutch at it best with a plethora of activities. You can be enchanted by the folk dance performances or sit back and enjoy the music, go for a camel safari or shop to your heart’s content at the handicraft market. An

entire tented village is set up with both a/c and non-a/c tents to choose from.

A COLOURFUL MIXOne of India’s largest districts, Kutch, surrounded by the Arabian Sea is a Pandora’s box of crafts and traditions. Its rich history dating from the Harappan civilization that thrived at Dholavira to the Jadeja Rajputs whose rule

endowed the state with forts, palaces, temples and other beautiful monuments, make Kutch a historian’s delight. Its diverse history and culture can be visited during the carnival that takes you around the grand desert.

The arid grasslands of the Banni host the majestic display of the traditional architecture of Kutch. A visit to this area will provide you with the authentic taste of Kutchi cuisine. Along with a magnifi cent display of talent on this platform, breathtaking folk dance performances are also organized under the silver moonlight. The fairs held on the banks of the lakes bring out the zeal and uniqueness of the people celebrating the festival. A blend of craftsmanship, enthusiasm, and hospitality defi ne the Rann Utsav to the fullest.

HANDICRAFTS—A WANDERER’S DELIGHTThe land of excellent craftsmanship and intricate handicrafts, Kutch is full of beautiful surprises. Best described as the “cradle of craftsmanship,” various styles of weaving, block-printing, bandhini tie and dye, Rogan-painting, embroidery, pottery, wood-carving, metal-crafts, and shell-work can be found here. The craft has been carried down from generation to generation and this traditional way of creating masterpieces makes each item stand out. Embroidered items, patchwork, terracotta, pen knives and nut crackers form some of the main handicrafts of the district.

The women of this region create some of the most beautiful items with their mirrored embroidery. Traditionally created by the women for themselves and their families during festivals, these are now a craze all over. Hand-printed textiles are also famous here. The Ajrakh prints, Batik prints and Rogan painting are among the most sought-after prints.

Another very important feature from this district is wood-carving. The Harijan people living in Dumaro and Ludia carve various utensils out of wood. Teak wood and the locally available bahuv wood are usually used to prepare these artefacts.

The endless talent of the people of Kutch is again showcased through their beautiful paintings. Rabari and Harijan women create wonderful pieces in their homes. The mud walls of their houses are adorned with designs using a clay mixture. Mor (peacock) popat (parrot) anghadi (fi ngers) vinjno (fan) are some of the common designs.

Known for its superior silverwork, you can take home intricately carved jewellery as a memento of this picturesque place and its warm people. Penknives and nutcrackers are other loved souvenirs. The artisans that once made the swords for the royals now produce these penknives making them all the more special. The cowherds of Kutch used bells to call their fl ocks from far. These bells had a unique sound due to the individual tuning of each bell. These bells with a wooden tongue are a big rage among collectors.

PROMOTION

RANN UTSAVTHE MAGICAL DESERT EXTRAVAGANZA

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Another incredible art form is that of making dolls and idols from seashells. The shells are collected and joined together to form fi gures of birds and animals, agarbati stands and idols of Gods and Goddesses.

KUTCH’S MYRIAD ATTRACTIONS—PLACES TO VISITA land of so many vast offerings, Kutch offers you a chance to experience diverse surroundings. A visit to Kalo Dungar often referred to as the Black Hill is a must while you’re in Kutch. The highest point in the district, the top of the Black Hill offers you a bird’s-eye view of the entire desert. The incredible vistas are sure to leave you awestruck. As you look over the horizon, the desert and sky merge and become indistinguishable. The hill is the site of the 400-year-old temple of Dattatreya.

The Narayan Sarovar, one of the fi ve holy lakes of Hinduism, is another must-visit site. At almost the westernmost point of land in India, it is sure to leave you mesmerized with its spiritual signifi cance.

The Vijay Vilas Palace in the seaside city of Mandvi, enchants with its acres of green forest and beautiful architecture. The summer palace of maharao Vijay Singhji, though small in size is tastefully done with its own wooden elevator. The beach at Mandvi has a number of activities such as parasailing, jet-skiing and speedboats to keep you busy. You can also fi nd various food outlets, sheds and seating facilities on slightly higher ground.

The Aina Mahal or the Palace of Mirrors in the Bhuj Fort built by Rao Lakhpatji in the 18th century is a sight to behold. Now a museum, it houses the Lunar Clock, an ivory door and important ancient documents.

Locally known as Kotada (meaning large fort), Dholavira, spread over 100 hectares of semi-arid land, is one of the two remarkable excavations of the Indus Valley Civilization. Home to probably the world’s earliest signboards—10 large stone inscriptions, carved in Indus Valley script, were found here, along with other artefacts including gold and copper ornaments, animal fi gurines, seals, beads, terracotta urns, fi sh hooks, and vessels that tell tales of trade with places as far away as Mesopotamia. It also has one of the world’s earliest water conservation systems ever excavated. Once here you can even spot the chinkara, nilgai (blue bull, the largest antelope in Asia), fl amingos and other birds.

Other places to visit are the Chhari Dhandh and Kutch Bustard Sanctuary. Chhari Dhandh, a paradise for bird-lovers and ornithologists, has over 370 species of birds being famous for its raports, water fl y, waders and larks.

The Kutch Bustard Sanctuary, stretching over an area of two square kilometres in the Abdusa Taluka near Nalia in Kutch is home to the Great Indian Bustard bird among various other species.

Kutch’s varied offerings is what makes this white desert so mesmerizing and unique.

For a complete experience of the salt desert, Gujarat Tourism organizes the Rann Utsav each year to welcome visitors into a land that is a kaleidoscope of centuries-old traditions, picturesque landscapes and ancient monuments. Visit Kutch at its exotic best between December 15th, 2012 and January 31st, 2013. Go for camel safaris and interact with the locals, visit rural India or dance to the folk songs; Rann Utsav gives you the chance to experience life in the middle of a salt desert.

PROMOTION

Toll Free No: 1-800/233-7951Website: www.gujarattourism.com

E-mail: [email protected]

RANN UTSAV 2012-13 PACKAGE DATES AND RATES

Sr. Package Dates AC Tent Non AC Tent Per Person Rs. Per Person Rs.

1. 3 Nights Package 12,500/- 10,500/- 15th Dec to 18th Dec, 2012 & 29th Dec, 2012 To 1st Jan 2013

2. 2 Nights Package 9500/- 7500/- In Dec. 2012: 19th, 22nd & 25th in Jan. 2013: 2nd, 5th,8th,11th, 17th, 20th, 23rd, 26th, 29th

3. One Night Package 4900/- 3900/-

4. Extra Person 2000/- 1500/- (With Extra Mattress) Per Day

1. Package is ex-Bhuj, inclusive of breakfast, tea, lunch and dinner and one optional tour for two nights/three nights package only.

2. Submit two passport size photos with name written behind it and copy of photo ID of all members at the time of booking with full payment.

THREE NIGHTS PACKAGEDay Time Particulars

Day 01 Till 12.00 hrs Arrival at Bhuj by Air/Rail & Road and transfer to Dhordo

15.30 hrs Arrival at Dhordo, Check-in at Tent Village & lunch

Visit Hodko village for handicraft and witness sunset at White Rann

Dinner and night halt at Tent Village

Day 02 08.30 hrs After breakfast departure for Indo-Pak Border Tour

Lunch and evening tea on route Dinner and night halt at Tent Village

Day 03 08.30 hrs After breakfast departure for one of the optional tours

1. Mandvi Beach Tour 2. Narayan Sarovar Tour Lunch and evening tea on route Dinner and night halt at Tent Village

Day 04 08.30 hrs After breakfast check out and departure for Bhuj via visit of Khavda, Black Hills, Ludiya village

14.00 hrs Arrival at Bhuj

TWO NIGHTS PACKAGE

Day Time Particulars





Day 02 08.30 hrs After breakfast departure for Indo-Pak Border Tour or Mandvi Beach Tour


Day 04 08.30 hrs After breakfast check-out and departure for Bhuj via visit of Khavda, Black Hills,

Ludiya village 14.00 Arrival at Bhuj

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Another incredible art form is that of making dolls and idols from seashells. The shells are collected and joined together to form fi gures of birds and animals, agarbati stands and idols of Gods and Goddesses.

KUTCH’S MYRIAD ATTRACTIONS—PLACES TO VISITA land of so many vast offerings, Kutch offers you a chance to experience diverse surroundings. A visit to Kalo Dungar often referred to as the Black Hill is a must while you’re in Kutch. The highest point in the district, the top of the Black Hill offers you a bird’s-eye view of the entire desert. The incredible vistas are sure to leave you awestruck. As you look over the horizon, the desert and sky merge and become indistinguishable. The hill is the site of the 400-year-old temple of Dattatreya.

The Narayan Sarovar, one of the fi ve holy lakes of Hinduism, is another must-visit site. At almost the westernmost point of land in India, it is sure to leave you mesmerized with its spiritual signifi cance.

The Vijay Vilas Palace in the seaside city of Mandvi, enchants with its acres of green forest and beautiful architecture. The summer palace of maharao Vijay Singhji, though small in size is tastefully done with its own wooden elevator. The beach at Mandvi has a number of activities such as parasailing, jet-skiing and speedboats to keep you busy. You can also fi nd various food outlets, sheds and seating facilities on slightly higher ground.

The Aina Mahal or the Palace of Mirrors in the Bhuj Fort built by Rao Lakhpatji in the 18th century is a sight to behold. Now a museum, it houses the Lunar Clock, an ivory door and important ancient documents.

Locally known as Kotada (meaning large fort), Dholavira, spread over 100 hectares of semi-arid land, is one of the two remarkable excavations of the Indus Valley Civilization. Home to probably the world’s earliest signboards—10 large stone inscriptions, carved in Indus Valley script, were found here, along with other artefacts including gold and copper ornaments, animal fi gurines, seals, beads, terracotta urns, fi sh hooks, and vessels that tell tales of trade with places as far away as Mesopotamia. It also has one of the world’s earliest water conservation systems ever excavated. Once here you can even spot the chinkara, nilgai (blue bull, the largest antelope in Asia), fl amingos and other birds.

Other places to visit are the Chhari Dhandh and Kutch Bustard Sanctuary. Chhari Dhandh, a paradise for bird-lovers and ornithologists, has over 370 species of birds being famous for its raports, water fl y, waders and larks.

The Kutch Bustard Sanctuary, stretching over an area of two square kilometres in the Abdusa Taluka near Nalia in Kutch is home to the Great Indian Bustard bird among various other species.

Kutch’s varied offerings is what makes this white desert so mesmerizing and unique.

For a complete experience of the salt desert, Gujarat Tourism organizes the Rann Utsav each year to welcome visitors into a land that is a kaleidoscope of centuries-old traditions, picturesque landscapes and ancient monuments. Visit Kutch at its exotic best between December 15th, 2012 and January 31st, 2013. Go for camel safaris and interact with the locals, visit rural India or dance to the folk songs; Rann Utsav gives you the chance to experience life in the middle of a salt desert.

PROMOTION

Toll Free No: 1-800/233-7951Website: www.gujarattourism.com

E-mail: [email protected]

RANN UTSAV 2012-13 PACKAGE DATES AND RATES

Sr. Package Dates AC Tent Non AC Tent Per Person Rs. Per Person Rs.

1. 3 Nights Package 12,500/- 10,500/- 15th Dec to 18th Dec, 2012 & 29th Dec, 2012 To 1st Jan 2013

2. 2 Nights Package 9500/- 7500/- In Dec. 2012: 19th, 22nd & 25th in Jan. 2013: 2nd, 5th,8th,11th, 17th, 20th, 23rd, 26th, 29th

3. One Night Package 4900/- 3900/-

4. Extra Person 2000/- 1500/- (With Extra Mattress) Per Day

1. Package is ex-Bhuj, inclusive of breakfast, tea, lunch and dinner and one optional tour for two nights/three nights package only.

2. Submit two passport size photos with name written behind it and copy of photo ID of all members at the time of booking with full payment.

THREE NIGHTS PACKAGEDay Time Particulars





Day 02 08.30 hrs After breakfast departure for Indo-Pak Border Tour


Day 03 08.30 hrs After breakfast departure for one of the optional tours

1. Mandvi Beach Tour 2. Narayan Sarovar Tour Lunch and evening tea on route Dinner and night halt at Tent Village

Day 04 08.30 hrs After breakfast check out and departure for Bhuj via visit of Khavda, Black Hills, Ludiya village

14.00 hrs Arrival at Bhuj

TWO NIGHTS PACKAGE

Day Time Particulars





Day 02 08.30 hrs After breakfast departure for Indo-Pak Border Tour or Mandvi Beach Tour


Day 04 08.30 hrs After breakfast check-out and departure for Bhuj via visit of Khavda, Black Hills,

Ludiya village 14.00 Arrival at Bhuj

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After the resounding success of our fi rst-edition of the India’s Best Awards last year, Travel + Leisure India & South Asia’s asks you, our discerning readers, to cast your votes for the top hotels, resorts, spas, destinations, airlines, cruise lines, and travel companies. Send in entries for this year’s favourites by 30th November 2012, and you could win free airline tickets!

AWARDS 2012● Best Country ........................................................................................................................................................

● Best City WORLD ............................................................... INDIA ......................................................................● Best Emerging Destination WORLD ............................................................... INDIA ......................................................................● Best Indian State .................................................................................................................................................

● Best Heritage Destination

WORLD ............................................................... INDIA ......................................................................● Best Leisure Destination

WORLD ............................................................... INDIA ......................................................................● Best Party Destination

WORLD ............................................................... INDIA ......................................................................● Best Cultural Destination

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● Best Cruise ............................................................................................................................................................● Best New Hotel

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● Best Hotel Restaurant INDIA ...............................................................................................................................● Best Hotel Nightclub WORLD ................................................................. INDIA .......................................................................● Best Hotel Loyalty Programme ..............................................................................................................................................

Continued…

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07 Awards 12.indd 2 21/09/12 3:00 PM


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● Best Airports

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WORLD ............................................................... INDIA .........................................................................● Best Wedding Destination WORLD ............................................................... INDIA .........................................................................● Best Family Destination

WORLD ............................................................... INDIA .........................................................................● Best Food Destination

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● Best Spiritual Destination INDIA ...........................................................................................................................

*TERMS & CONDITIONS 1. Entry is open for readers of 18 years of age or older. Employees and immediate families of Media Transasia and any agencies associated with the competition are not eligible to enter. 2. T+L reserves the right, at any time, to verify the validity of the entries and entrants (including an entrant’s identity, age and place of residence) and to disqualify any entrant who submits an entry that is not in accordance with these Terms and Conditions or who tampers with the entry process. Failure by T+L to enforce any of its rights at any stage does not constitute a waiver of those rights. 3. Instructions on ‘How to Enter’ form part of these conditions. To enter, fill in the Readers’ Choice Voting form, including your contact details, in Travel + Leisure India & South Asia magazine or vote online at http://www.travelandleisureindia.com. 4. Only one entry is permitted per person and each entry must be submitted in accordance with the entry requirements. 5. T+L accepts no responsibility for late, incomplete or illegible entries, which will be deemed invalid. 6. The competition commences on 1 July 2012 and closes on 30 November 2012. 7. As it’s a Readers’ Choice Award, the judgment is purely based on the number of votes cast in favour of each category. T+L’s editorial board will declare the winner based on votes cast. The winners will be notified via e-mail or telephone and the winner’s details will be published in the magazine. 8. The competition for the prizes is based on a lucky draw. The judge’s decision is final and no correspondence will be entered into. 9. The prize is not transferable or exchangeable and cannot be taken as cash. Any change in value of the prize occurring between the competition date and the date the prize is claimed is not the responsibility of the promoters. 10. T+L shall not be liable for any loss or damage whatsoever which is suffered (including, but not limited to, indirect or consequential loss) or for personal injury suffered or sustained as a result of accepting a prize. 11. T+L has the right to alter the terms of the competition at its discretion, throughout the duration of the competition. 12. Privacy: certain personal information is requested upon registering your entry, including your name and e-mail address. Some of this information (including sensitive information) is essential for us to be able to accurately identify who is eligible for entry and as such is mandatory. Other types of information are collected to help us profile who is using these services and what their interests are. Information of this type is optional and need only be filled in if you wish to do so. We value your trust in Travel + Leisure India & South Asia magazine. Your information will be held in the strictest confidence.

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VOTE AND WIN!*Win four free tickets to the country of your choice, courtesy Turkish Airlines. Please fi ll in

your details and return the completed questionnaire in the enclosed envelope. You can also vote online at www.travelandleisureindia.com. Entries close 30th November 2012.

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Comfortable seats and best on-board catering are only award winning details. Turkish Airlines was named the Best Airline Europe at the 2011 World Airline Awards. The airline is a prestigious

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07 Awards 12.indd 3 21/09/12 3:01 PM


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Trip Doctoryour travel dilemmas solved � D E A L S 48

by Tom SamiljanTech Correspondent

T+L PICKS

The Sportiiiis (from USD 149; 4iiii.com) attaches to glasses and employs LED’s to help you track your heart rate, running pace, and cadence.

Transform your iPhone 4/4S into an underwater camera with the Aqua Solar Tek case (USD 129.99; snowlizardproducts.com), which keeps the phone charged with a solar-powered battery .

The Tumi Smart Key Fob (USD 145; tumi.com) uses ZOMM to virtually tether to your phone and alerts you if they become separated; it can also be used as a Bluetooth speaker and to make emergency calls.

Three for the Road

When it comes to reliable, easy-to-use tech amenities, hotels have lagged confoundingly behind what most travellers have at home or on their smart phones or tablets. Even at many so-called state-of-the-art properties guests wrestle with inscrutable room controls, ornery A/V setups, and awkward communications systems. Thankfully, some hotels are now stepping up their tech game—for real.

TECH

Your Next-Gen Hotel Room

What’s Here Now� These days, any property worth its room rate offers free Wi-Fi. But too often it’s exceedingly sloooow. Solution: many hotels (including the Radisson in San Diego and the Mandarin Oriental, Tokyo) are rolling out 100 Mbps Internet service, which is fast enough to download an album in three seconds. � The Four Seasons Los Angeles and Shangri-La Toronto are two of nearly 50 hotels providing in-room iPads powered by Intelity’s pioneering ICE Touch technology. The intuitive interface lets you order room service, schedule wake-up calls, and book spa appointments. Best of all? It works. � OpenWays has created an app—currently being tested at select Holiday Inn and Choice Hotels properties—that allows guests’ own smart phones to be used as room keys .

What’s NextIn a recently issued industry report , futurist Ian Pearson predicted the following hotel-room innovations:� Your bathroom mirror will also function as an interactive display showing news, weather, and messages.� Wall surfaces could serve as voice- and gesture-controlled monitors that double as video-conferencing panels or even play slideshows of guests’ own photos.� Electro-responsive fibres in sleepwear and soft electronics in pillows will monitor your blood pressure, sleep patterns, and even your stress levels; music or lighting will be adjusted accordingly to help you relax. In extreme cases, the system could even summon a doctor. But in less urgent situations, perhaps it could just book you an appointment at the hotel spa? �IL

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The interiors of a villa at Lakshman Sagar, in Rajasthan.

ROMANCE

RAJASTHANWhat Special Honeymoon Getaway at Lakshman Sagar (Via Raipur, Dist. of Pali, Raipur, Rajasthan; 91-11/2649-4531; sevara.com) The Deal Two-night accommodation including all meals. Highlights Traditional welcome; complimentary bottle of sparkling wine and fruit basket; private splash pools with Jacuzzi; customized private dining with live barbecue; candle light dinner accompanied with bonfi re and live music performances; village trips; nature walk and breakfast in the fi elds; jeep safari to Todgarh-Rawali wildlife sanctuary ; culinary classes; trek and picnic at Fatehgarh. Cost Doubles from Rs 31,999.

DUBAIWhat Honeymoon Package at Avari Dubai Hotel (971-4/295-6666; avari.com). The Deal Three-night stay in a luxurious apartment

with breakfast. Highlights A bottle of wine and a cake for two; upgrade to a suite if available, upon check-in; aromatherapy full-body massage for two, once during stay; pick up and drop services to select beaches and malls; exclusive off ers at the Olive Tree and Cinnamon Lounge. Cost Doubles from Rs 22,500.

BANGKOKWhat Honeymoon Package at Tower Club at Lebua Bangkok (1055/42 Silom Rd., Bangrak; 66-2/624-9555; lebua.com). The Deal Two-night accommodation in a One-Bedroom Suite with breakfast. Highlights Two complimentary signature drink vouchers at Ocean 52/Sky Bar; in-suite spa therapy for two (Lebua Signature Oil Massage/60 minutes). Cost Doubles from USD 855; through March 31.

VIETNAMWhat Honeymoon Package at The Nam Hai (Hamlet 1 Dien Duong Village, Dien Ban

Dist., Quang Nam Province; 84-510/394-0000; ghmhotels.com). The Deal Two-night stay in a One-Bedroom Villa with breakfast. Highlights Airport transfers; private barbecue dinner with a bottle of Dom Perignon and cake; one 60-minute Vietnamese massage for two; one love bath ceremony either at the spa or in the villa. Cost Doubles from USD 650; through December 20.

CULTURE

JODHPURWhat RIFF Package at Ranbanka Palace, Jodhpur (Circuit House Road; 91-291/251-280; ranbankahotels.com). The Deal Two-night accommodation with buff et breakfast Highlights Traditional welcome with aarti, tikka; buff et/fi xed menu dinner; half-day sightseeing by car to Mehrangarh Fort, Museum and Jaswant Thada; cultural performance in

the evening; 15 percent discount in the restaurant/bar; complimentary stay for two children below fi ve years. Cost Doubles from Rs 16,000; through October 31.

JAISALMERWhat Navratra Special Package at Sury agarh, Jaisalmer (Kahala Phata, Sam Road; 91-2992/269-269; sury agarh.com). The Deal One-night stay in a Palace Room with breakfast. Highlights Evening puja at the hotel; special vrat ki thalli; transfers from Jodhpur Airport or Jaisalmer station. Cost Doubles from Rs 9,999; through October 30.

KOLKATAWhat Puja Package at The Park, Kolkata (17 Park St.; 91-33/2249-9000; theparkhotels.com) The Deal One-night accommodation in Deluxe Room with breakfast Highlights Airport/station transfers; half-day puja excursion/local sightseeing; 15 percent discount on food

Best Deals by Khushi Khanna

Special Honeymoon Package in Rajasthan

and beverage; 20 percent discount at the spa; entry to all clubs. Cost Doubles from Rs 5,750; October 20 to October 28.

SPA

MUMBAIWhat Weekend Spa Off er at Trident, Bandra Kurla, Mumbai (C-56, G Block, Bandra Kurla Complex; 91-22/6672-7777; tridenthotels.com) The Deal One-night accommodation in a Premier Room with breakfast. Highlights One 60-minute Trident/Balinese massage; access to swimming pool and fi tness centre; complimentary Internet usage. Cost Doubles from Rs 12,000; through March 31.

RISHIKESHWhat Essentially Ananda at Ananda in the Himalayas (The Palace Estate, Narendra Nagar, Tehri–Garhwal; 91-1378/227-500; anandaspa.com) The Deal Two-night accommodation; complimentary one-night

stay with breakfast. Highlights Daily breakfast and dinner; one spa treatment per night. Cost Doubles from Rs 43,200; through October 31.

CITY

JAIPURWhat Seeing is Believing package by Fairmont Jaipur (2 Riico Kukas; 91-142/642-0000; fairmont.com). The Deal One-night accommodation; stay two nights, get one night free. Highlights Complimentary room for two children; breakfast for two adults; airport or railway transfers; exclusive kid’s activities. Cost Rs 9,999, through October 31.

GURGAONWhat Long Term Stay package at Courtyard by Marriott, Gurgaon (Plot No. 27-B, B Block, Sector 27, Sector Road, Sushant Lok 1; 91-124/472-4000; marriott.com). The Deal Stay for fi ve nights or

more and avail special benefi ts. Highlights Airport transfers; complimentary in-room high speed Internet; buff et breakfast for two and children below 12 years; 30 percent discount on food and beverages; 30 percent discount on business centre facilities; late check-out till 4 p.m.

LUXURY

BALIWhat Weekend Escape at Alila Villas (alilahotels.com). The Deal One-night accommodation in a One-Bedroom Pool Villa at Alila Villas Uluwatu or Mountain Pool Villa at Alila Villas Soori Highlights Complimentary private airport transfers; daily breakfast for two; 30 minutes refl exology at Spa Alila; host (butler) service; complimentary use of 24-hour gym and daily yoga sessions Cost Doubles from USD 572 for Alila Villas Uluwatu; doubles from USD 459 for Alila Villas Soori; through March 31.

ADVENTURES OF THE MONTH

DUBAI what Learn to Dive with Dolphins at Atlantis, The Palm (The Palm Jumeirah; 971-4/426-0000; atlantisthepalm.com) the deal Interactive dolphin conservation session and diving. highlights Become a certifi ed PADI scuba diver; certifi cation in a saltwater pool; dolphin feeding. cost from USD 543; through October 30. BARCELONA what New Helicopter Package by Mandarin Oriental, Barcelona (Passeig de Gràcia; 34-93/151-8744; mandarinoriental.com) the deal Pick from tours ranging from 10 minutes to three hours fl ights. highlights Barcelona Sky Tour takes off from the sea and fl ies over the city’s main attractions

before heading off to Montserrat; the Montserrat Tour fl ies over the mountains of Catalonia; the Wine Cellar Getaway takes guests to renowned wine cellars; stops for tasting and a vineyard tour. cost From USD 124. THAILAND what Golf Holiday Package in Thailand by Golf Boutique (91/98111-29258)The Three-night stay in Bay View room at Hilton Hua Hin including breakfast. highlights Three rounds of golf, including green fee, caddy fee and transfers to Palm Hills, Springtiled and Black Mountain; in Bangkok stay in a Superior Room at The Davis Bangkok with breakfast and airport transfers. cost USD 680 per person; through October. ✚

Getaways for October

In the mood for some adrenaline-inducing activity ? We bring you the three picks that guarantee an unforgettable experience.

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HM

AN

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IS,

TH

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AL

M

PROMOTION

Peace. Serenity. Solitude. And add to that luxury, elegance, natural surroundings and genuine friendly service is what defi nes Pimalai.

Be it a honeymoon, a wedding, a diving experience, a break from it all or even a business meeting in Krabi, Thailand—Pimalai, nestled in a lush tropical forest, is the Andaman luxury destination to set your sights on. This exclusive beach resort combines subtle fi ve-star comforts, natural beauty, environmental friendliness and lots of space. Located at a distance from crowded beaches and close to Lanta Marine National Park, the only sound is that of the waves rolling in and out.

Built within the rainforest as it meets the silver ocean strand, you would hardly know Pimalai was there. This boutique beach resort occupies 100 acres of tropical vegetation with direct access to 900 metres of a pristine beach and offers 121 elegantly appointed accommodation units.

An hour by the resort boat from Krabi mainland, the beauty of the resort makes the wait worthwhile. A unique lost boutique paradise in tourist Thailand, Pimalai is a rare gem. Visit once and you will return again and again.

Discover Nature Discover Yourself

Koh Lanta ● Krabi ● Thailandemail: [email protected]: +66(2)320-5500, Fax: +66(2)320-5503www.pimalai.com

10-Deals 12.indd 2-3 21/09/12 7:21 PM


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The interiors of a villa at Lakshman Sagar, in Rajasthan.

ROMANCE

RAJASTHANWhat Special Honeymoon Getaway at Lakshman Sagar (Via Raipur, Dist. of Pali, Raipur, Rajasthan; 91-11/2649-4531; sevara.com) The Deal Two-night accommodation including all meals. Highlights Traditional welcome; complimentary bottle of sparkling wine and fruit basket; private splash pools with Jacuzzi; customized private dining with live barbecue; candle light dinner accompanied with bonfi re and live music performances; village trips; nature walk and breakfast in the fi elds; jeep safari to Todgarh-Rawali wildlife sanctuary ; culinary classes; trek and picnic at Fatehgarh. Cost Doubles from Rs 31,999.

DUBAIWhat Honeymoon Package at Avari Dubai Hotel (971-4/295-6666; avari.com). The Deal Three-night stay in a luxurious apartment

with breakfast. Highlights A bottle of wine and a cake for two; upgrade to a suite if available, upon check-in; aromatherapy full-body massage for two, once during stay; pick up and drop services to select beaches and malls; exclusive off ers at the Olive Tree and Cinnamon Lounge. Cost Doubles from Rs 22,500.

BANGKOKWhat Honeymoon Package at Tower Club at Lebua Bangkok (1055/42 Silom Rd., Bangrak; 66-2/624-9555; lebua.com). The Deal Two-night accommodation in a One-Bedroom Suite with breakfast. Highlights Two complimentary signature drink vouchers at Ocean 52/Sky Bar; in-suite spa therapy for two (Lebua Signature Oil Massage/60 minutes). Cost Doubles from USD 855; through March 31.

VIETNAMWhat Honeymoon Package at The Nam Hai (Hamlet 1 Dien Duong Village, Dien Ban

Dist., Quang Nam Province; 84-510/394-0000; ghmhotels.com). The Deal Two-night stay in a One-Bedroom Villa with breakfast. Highlights Airport transfers; private barbecue dinner with a bottle of Dom Perignon and cake; one 60-minute Vietnamese massage for two; one love bath ceremony either at the spa or in the villa. Cost Doubles from USD 650; through December 20.

CULTURE

JODHPURWhat RIFF Package at Ranbanka Palace, Jodhpur (Circuit House Road; 91-291/251-280; ranbankahotels.com). The Deal Two-night accommodation with buff et breakfast Highlights Traditional welcome with aarti, tikka; buff et/fi xed menu dinner; half-day sightseeing by car to Mehrangarh Fort, Museum and Jaswant Thada; cultural performance in

the evening; 15 percent discount in the restaurant/bar; complimentary stay for two children below fi ve years. Cost Doubles from Rs 16,000; through October 31.

JAISALMERWhat Navratra Special Package at Sury agarh, Jaisalmer (Kahala Phata, Sam Road; 91-2992/269-269; sury agarh.com). The Deal One-night stay in a Palace Room with breakfast. Highlights Evening puja at the hotel; special vrat ki thalli; transfers from Jodhpur Airport or Jaisalmer station. Cost Doubles from Rs 9,999; through October 30.

KOLKATAWhat Puja Package at The Park, Kolkata (17 Park St.; 91-33/2249-9000; theparkhotels.com) The Deal One-night accommodation in Deluxe Room with breakfast Highlights Airport/station transfers; half-day puja excursion/local sightseeing; 15 percent discount on food

Best Deals by Khushi Khanna

Special Honeymoon Package in Rajasthan

and beverage; 20 percent discount at the spa; entry to all clubs. Cost Doubles from Rs 5,750; October 20 to October 28.

SPA

MUMBAIWhat Weekend Spa Off er at Trident, Bandra Kurla, Mumbai (C-56, G Block, Bandra Kurla Complex; 91-22/6672-7777; tridenthotels.com) The Deal One-night accommodation in a Premier Room with breakfast. Highlights One 60-minute Trident/Balinese massage; access to swimming pool and fi tness centre; complimentary Internet usage. Cost Doubles from Rs 12,000; through March 31.

RISHIKESHWhat Essentially Ananda at Ananda in the Himalayas (The Palace Estate, Narendra Nagar, Tehri–Garhwal; 91-1378/227-500; anandaspa.com) The Deal Two-night accommodation; complimentary one-night

stay with breakfast. Highlights Daily breakfast and dinner; one spa treatment per night. Cost Doubles from Rs 43,200; through October 31.

CITY

JAIPURWhat Seeing is Believing package by Fairmont Jaipur (2 Riico Kukas; 91-142/642-0000; fairmont.com). The Deal One-night accommodation; stay two nights, get one night free. Highlights Complimentary room for two children; breakfast for two adults; airport or railway transfers; exclusive kid’s activities. Cost Rs 9,999, through October 31.

GURGAONWhat Long Term Stay package at Courtyard by Marriott, Gurgaon (Plot No. 27-B, B Block, Sector 27, Sector Road, Sushant Lok 1; 91-124/472-4000; marriott.com). The Deal Stay for fi ve nights or

more and avail special benefi ts. Highlights Airport transfers; complimentary in-room high speed Internet; buff et breakfast for two and children below 12 years; 30 percent discount on food and beverages; 30 percent discount on business centre facilities; late check-out till 4 p.m.

LUXURY

BALIWhat Weekend Escape at Alila Villas (alilahotels.com). The Deal One-night accommodation in a One-Bedroom Pool Villa at Alila Villas Uluwatu or Mountain Pool Villa at Alila Villas Soori Highlights Complimentary private airport transfers; daily breakfast for two; 30 minutes refl exology at Spa Alila; host (butler) service; complimentary use of 24-hour gym and daily yoga sessions Cost Doubles from USD 572 for Alila Villas Uluwatu; doubles from USD 459 for Alila Villas Soori; through March 31.

ADVENTURES OF THE MONTH

DUBAI what Learn to Dive with Dolphins at Atlantis, The Palm (The Palm Jumeirah; 971-4/426-0000; atlantisthepalm.com) the deal Interactive dolphin conservation session and diving. highlights Become a certifi ed PADI scuba diver; certifi cation in a saltwater pool; dolphin feeding. cost from USD 543; through October 30. BARCELONA what New Helicopter Package by Mandarin Oriental, Barcelona (Passeig de Gràcia; 34-93/151-8744; mandarinoriental.com) the deal Pick from tours ranging from 10 minutes to three hours fl ights. highlights Barcelona Sky Tour takes off from the sea and fl ies over the city’s main attractions

before heading off to Montserrat; the Montserrat Tour fl ies over the mountains of Catalonia; the Wine Cellar Getaway takes guests to renowned wine cellars; stops for tasting and a vineyard tour. cost From USD 124. THAILAND what Golf Holiday Package in Thailand by Golf Boutique (91/98111-29258)The Three-night stay in Bay View room at Hilton Hua Hin including breakfast. highlights Three rounds of golf, including green fee, caddy fee and transfers to Palm Hills, Springtiled and Black Mountain; in Bangkok stay in a Superior Room at The Davis Bangkok with breakfast and airport transfers. cost USD 680 per person; through October. ✚

Getaways for October

In the mood for some adrenaline-inducing activity ? We bring you the three picks that guarantee an unforgettable experience.

CO

UR

TE

SY

OF

LA

KS

HM

AN

SA

GA

R

CO

UR

TE

SY

OF

AT

LA

NT

IS,

TH

E P

AL

MPROMOTION

Peace. Serenity. Solitude. And add to that luxury, elegance, natural surroundings and genuine friendly service is what defi nes Pimalai.

Be it a honeymoon, a wedding, a diving experience, a break from it all or even a business meeting in Krabi, Thailand—Pimalai, nestled in a lush tropical forest, is the Andaman luxury destination to set your sights on. This exclusive beach resort combines subtle fi ve-star comforts, natural beauty, environmental friendliness and lots of space. Located at a distance from crowded beaches and close to Lanta Marine National Park, the only sound is that of the waves rolling in and out.

Built within the rainforest as it meets the silver ocean strand, you would hardly know Pimalai was there. This boutique beach resort occupies 100 acres of tropical vegetation with direct access to 900 metres of a pristine beach and offers 121 elegantly appointed accommodation units.

An hour by the resort boat from Krabi mainland, the beauty of the resort makes the wait worthwhile. A unique lost boutique paradise in tourist Thailand, Pimalai is a rare gem. Visit once and you will return again and again.

Discover Nature Discover Yourself

Koh Lanta ● Krabi ● Thailandemail: [email protected]: +66(2)320-5500, Fax: +66(2)320-5503www.pimalai.com

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There’s a reason Mrs. Cardeza needed all that stuff: fashionable women of her day were forever changing outfits—putting on and taking off different ensembles for dining, dancing, and shopping, even donning elaborate tea gowns, which never actually saw sunlight but were worn just for sitting around the parlour.

As fate would have it, I too have complicated wardrobe requirements when I hit the road. And it’s not only because I frequently travel to Europe to cover the biannual fashion shows, where my colleagues appear to switch garments as often as an Edwardian matron (How do they manage it? Do they FedEx Goyard steamer trunks to the Hôtel de Crillon? Sneak off to Le Bon Marché to replenish hotel armoires daily?) but also because my personal style could hardly be called minimalist—and, in fact, depends heavily on puffy frocks and layered petticoats. My taste is fiercely nonconformist (well, as fierce as you can be when you are prancing around in a pink sequined dirndl and a scarlet velvet cloak).

I am sure that Mrs. Cardeza had a packing system, and I also have a carefully plotted routine, honed over decades of trial and error. First, rest assured that I do not have anything in common with those braggarts who spend six months in 12 capitals with two pairs of black pants and one T-shirt, insisting that they can do magic tricks with scarves. In fact, my situation is quite the opposite: I frequently don’t have the right things with me no matter how much I bring, whether I’m going to the flea market in Tangiers or a nightclub in Moscow.

My predicament is exacerbated by the fact that whenever I check a bag, I am convinced it will not appear unmolested on the other side of the world, so am reluctant to fill it with anything more valuable than shampoo and skivvies. Let me be clear: I

Point of View

Confessions of a Packing MaximalistFashion eccentric and vintage clothing afi cionado Lynn Yaeger reveals the tricks and travails of high-maintenance travel.

trunks, four suitcases, and three crates of baggage containing, among other items, 70 dresses, 38 feather boas, 10 fur coats, and 91 pairs of gloves. We know this because Mrs. Cardeza, who survived on Lifeboat 3 , filed a staggering 18-page, single-spaced insurance claim against the White Star Line, seeking recompense for that lost ermine-trimmed coat and those vanished veils and parasols .

hen Mrs. Charlotte Drake Martinez Cardeza of Philadelphia settled into suite B 51-55 on the Titanic, she had with her 14 E

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consider my wardrobe more a collection of irreplaceable artworks than a bunch of things to wear. That my luggage has never failed to arrive in no way allays this fear—in fact, it only reinforces my conviction that the odds are against me, that the next trip will be the one with the baggage disaster.

Since my carry-on must do the heavy lifting, I have been forced to employ strategies that can be more than a little embarrassing. Summer or winter, you will see me in my heaviest clothes, waddling up to the security gate in something like, say, a Dries Van Noten smock over two skirts and a vintage petticoat, in an attempt to smuggle a few more garments onto the plane. This explosion of fabric inevitably results in my being forced to submit to a series of humiliating and invasive security-related procedures, since, let’s face it, there could be an entire arsenal stashed under my ensemble.

Can there be a less elegant way to begin a journey than planting your Fogal-clad feet on two filthy yellow rubber footprints, waiting for a total stranger to stick her hands up your dress and dust you down with a powdery substance? No matter! I just smile when the words “Female alert!” ring out from the TSA agent at the X-ray machine as I approach. To forestall this body search, I have been known to visit the ladies’ room, peel off a few layers of clothing, stuff them into the largest conveyance that could possibly pass as a piece of “hand luggage,” and hope that this now-diminished costume will get me waved through. Alas, this only works half the time. “Thank you for keeping us safe!” I cry when the guard realizes there is nothing under my dress—except maybe another dress.

At least now I am rushing to the ladies’ pain-free. For years I insisted on toting a battered Louis Vuitton duffel, convinced that this bag made me look like Sara Murphy circa 1920, heading off to the Riviera, even when I nearly dislocated my shoulder carrying it. So I moved on to what

seems in retrospect to be an insane solution, though it made perfect sense to me at the time—I bought the duffel its own collapsible metal cart, secured it under a crosshatch of bungee cords, and dragged the whole monstrosity through the airport. Of course, I had to collapse the contraption at the door of the plane and tug both it and the 100-pound duffel down the aisle, rolling over people’s toes as I fought my way to the depths of coach.

“Get wheels!” my mom pleaded for years. “Look how cute the flight attendants look with their little rolling suitcases!” But every time I considered this solution, I heard the words of a stylish photographer friend echoing in my brain. “You can’t have wheels,” he said in a low, disgusted whisper. “It’s a terrible gesture when you are pulling it!” Terrible gesture or not, I did eventually concede, and the result has

been life-changing. I am now the poster child for the rabid cult of Rimowa, an ingenious brand that relies on some kind of advanced technology (or maybe just four wheels?) that enables me to glide through the airport as if I am walking a shiny, cherry-red g reyhound. And it’s not just the ease of motion—these things also have flat tops where you can stack expandable Longchamp totes (another remarkable baggage innovation) that allow you to

transport all those fashion items you found so irresistible when you tried them on in foreign fitting rooms and now will never wear again. But that’s another story.

If I had more time, I could travel by boat, which would solve my problem. You can bring an almost endless number of cases on board, making you look like you just stepped out of a Fred Astaire movie as you fidget on the buffet line. In fact, Cunard offers a White Star shipping service that will fly your luggage from home to the ship—as many pieces as you like!—so long as they will fit in your stateroom. Appealing as this notion may be, it is alas of limited usefulness: I usually have to be somewhere in eight hours, not eight days. And anyway, wouldn’t I be consumed with worry that my cases, torn from my hands and flying on their own to some distant dock, would lose their way?

Annoyed friends and colleagues, stuck waiting for me on the other side of security, have gently suggested I modify my personal style just a little. But despite the inconvenience, I stick to my guns (perhaps not the most felicitous turn of phrase when it comes to air travel). And just when I think I am the only lonely pilgrim dolled up in layers of tulle while my fellow travellers cavort happily in Juicy Couture, another underappreciated, overdressed stalwart will sail into view. En route to the Life Ball, in Vienna, one year, I spied the fabulously louche New York nightlife legend Amanda Lepore, poured into a curvaceous satin frock and teetering on vertiginous stilettos while twirling an enormous hatbox. And what a delightful sight she was! Though she was channelling Jayne Mansfield and my costume was closer to Minnie Mouse, we shared a complicit glance—sisters under the skin. If you listened closely over the din of the loudspeakers, you could almost hear the spirit of Mrs. Cardeza, resplendent in a lace-trimmed tea gown, cheering us on. ✚

Lynn Yaeger is a contributing writerfor Vogue.

My personal style could hardly be called minimalist—and, in fact, depends heavily on puff y frocks and layered petticoats

Point of View

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In This Issue

54 Maldives 56 Kerala 68 Toronto 74 Costa Rica 80 Flanders 88 Kuala Lumpur

October 2012Y

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Rooms overlooking the manmade lagoon at The Lalit Resort & Spa Bekal, in Kerala.

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10 Maldives12.indd 2-3 21/09/12 2:23 PM


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10 Maldives12.indd 2-3 21/09/12 2:23 PM


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BEKAL A TASTE OF

TRAVEL+LE ISURE O C TO B E R 2012 00

Photographed by Martha Camarillo

Could Flanders be Europe’s best-kept design secret? In Belgium’s northernmost region,

Heather Smith MacIsaac discovers three small cities where contemporary style is

steeped in centuries-old artistic tradition.

The unexplored north of the Kerala coast is now welcoming visitors with a seductive smorgasbord of inducements—virgin beaches and backwaters, a little-known local cuisine, and two new resorts that are the last word in luxury. By Roopa PaiPhotographed by Yashas Chandra

BEKAL A TASTE OF

And quiet fl ows the Kappil, one of several riverside gazebos that

dot the landscape of The Lalit Resort & Spa Bekal, in Kerala.

10 KERALA 12.indd 2-3 21/09/12 4:37 PM


WorldMags.net



BEKAL A TASTE OF


Photographed by Martha Camarillo




The unexplored north of the Kerala coast is now welcoming visitors with a seductive smorgasbord of inducements—virgin beaches and backwaters, a little-known local cuisine, and two new resorts that are the last word in luxury. By Roopa PaiPhotographed by Yashas Chandra

BEKAL A TASTE OF

And quiet fl ows the Kappil, one of several riverside gazebos that

dot the landscape of The Lalit Resort & Spa Bekal, in Kerala.

10 KERALA 12.indd 2-3 21/09/12 4:37 PM


WorldMags.net




tucked away like a secret in the southern reaches of the Malabar coast, that season is the monsoon. As we take in the uninterrupted, rain-washed panorama of sea, beach and emerald coconut groves from the ramparts of the sprawling 17th century Bekal Fort (the very same one that turned in such a brilliant cameo as the rain-drenched, moss-covered backdrop to the cult tune “Tu Hi Re” in the Mani Ratnam classic Bombay), it is easy to see why.

Bekal Fort has been smartened up since its rough-edged Bombay days. A few years ago, the well-meaning Archaeological Survey of India made the restoration and maintenance of Kerala’s best-preserved fort its business—laying out lawns, putting in an entry ticket booth, and installing dustbins around the popcorn and soft drink stalls inside. The move is not only bringing the tourists in—despite the steady drizzle, several gaggles of visitors, most of them local, were exploring the fort that afternoon—but is also exactly in keeping with Kerala Tourism’s ambitious plans for the hitherto under-promoted north.

In the past two years, two well-known hotel chains have responded to the tourism department’s invitation, and planted their fl ags seven kilometres north of the Bekal Fort, one on each side of the picturesque Kappil Beach backwaters. The fi rst one on our itinerary is the nine-month-old Vivanta by Taj - Bekal, now gearing up for its fi rst international season.

It is raining hard as we sweep into the driveway of the Vivanta, past lovely but slightly incongruous stone

Clockwise from le� : A common sight along the still-undiscovered Kappil Beach adjoining the Vivanta by Taj - Bekal; curry leaf coated jumbo prawns is a signature dish on the menu; stone fi gurines from Indonesia segue seamlessly into the coconut palms at this Bali-inspired resort; woven kettuvallam roofs are a recurring design motif at the Vivanta by Taj - Bekal.

EEvery place in the world has a “season”—a time of year when it truly comes into its own. In the small fishing town of Bekal,

10 KERALA 12.indd 4-5 21/09/12 4:37 PM


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tucked away like a secret in the southern reaches of the Malabar coast, that season is the monsoon. As we take in the uninterrupted, rain-washed panorama of sea, beach and emerald coconut groves from the ramparts of the sprawling 17th century Bekal Fort (the very same one that turned in such a brilliant cameo as the rain-drenched, moss-covered backdrop to the cult tune “Tu Hi Re” in the Mani Ratnam classic Bombay), it is easy to see why.

Bekal Fort has been smartened up since its rough-edged Bombay days. A few years ago, the well-meaning Archaeological Survey of India made the restoration and maintenance of Kerala’s best-preserved fort its business—laying out lawns, putting in an entry ticket booth, and installing dustbins around the popcorn and soft drink stalls inside. The move is not only bringing the tourists in—despite the steady drizzle, several gaggles of visitors, most of them local, were exploring the fort that afternoon—but is also exactly in keeping with Kerala Tourism’s ambitious plans for the hitherto under-promoted north.

In the past two years, two well-known hotel chains have responded to the tourism department’s invitation, and planted their fl ags seven kilometres north of the Bekal Fort, one on each side of the picturesque Kappil Beach backwaters. The fi rst one on our itinerary is the nine-month-old Vivanta by Taj - Bekal, now gearing up for its fi rst international season.

It is raining hard as we sweep into the driveway of the Vivanta, past lovely but slightly incongruous stone

Clockwise from le� : A common sight along the still-undiscovered Kappil Beach adjoining the Vivanta by Taj - Bekal; curry leaf coated jumbo prawns is a signature dish on the menu; stone fi gurines from Indonesia segue seamlessly into the coconut palms at this Bali-inspired resort; woven kettuvallam roofs are a recurring design motif at the Vivanta by Taj - Bekal.

EEvery place in the world has a “season”—a time of year when it truly comes into its own. In the small fishing town of Bekal,

10 KERALA 12.indd 4-5 21/09/12 4:37 PM


WorldMags.net



60 O C TO B E R 2012 TRAVEL+LE ISURE TRAVEL+LE ISURE O C TO B E R 2012 61

Garudas over whom the moss is already growing thick, and a giant, rather emaciated Ganesha. Both have been brought in from Bali—in fact, the architecture of the whole resort is Bali-inspired—but stylish doses of local fl avour also abound, none more ubiquitous and larger-than-life than the resort’s signature design motif, the kettuvallam (Kerala rice-boat) roof, whose sinuous curves top rooms, covered walkways, and the entrance porch.

At 26 acres, the Vivanta by Taj - Bekal is huge, so even its full complement of 71 rooms doesn’t take away from the feeling of endless space. The fact that one edge of the property skirts the backwaters all the way until they enter the Arabian Sea and continues to curve along Kappil Beach doesn’t hurt either. But given that Bekal is neither the most accessible destination in the world—you have to first fly into Mangalore airport, and then take a two-hour car ride from there—nor the best-known, you wonder if 71 rooms may not be a bit ambitious. Apparently not, though, for the Vivanta was absolutely buzzing with large family groups the weekend we were there. None of them seemed to have taken advantage of the hotel’s pet-friendly policies yet, but there were plenty of children.

Aggressive marketing has certainly fi lled the Vivanta with enthusiastic guests, but it has forced the resort to compromise, in a sense, on one important aspect—food. In an attempt to satisfy the largest number of guests, the

TWO WELL-KNOWN HOTEL CHAINS HAVE PLANTED THEIR FLAGS SEVEN KILOMETRES NORTH OF BEKAL FORT

buff ets at the all-day restaurant, Latitude, the only one open so far—feature only a couple of token Malayalee dishes. (Hot tip: executive chef Gopal Jayaraman will gladly toss up a karimeen pollichathu or a kozhi adachitathu for you if you ask nicely). In the Vivanta’s defence, it must be said that most people from outside the state are suspicious of Kerala’s cuisine, particularly because of the preponderance of coconut—and coconut oil— in it, and none but the most adventurous will willingly submit themselves to three days of local cuisine.

It is still something of a missed opportunity, though, both for the guests and for the hotel, because north Malabar cuisine, especially the meat-based cuisine of the Muslim Mappilas, is an entity into itself—rich, fragrant, meat-based dishes low on heat and high on fl avour, a unique marriage of local ingredients and the culinary traditions of Arab traders who returned to this coast over thousands of years, lured by the scent of Malabar pepper and the more exotic spices from further east. Funnily enough, pepper itself is almost absent in Mappila cuisine— the story goes that the canny Mappilas (themselves descended from mixed Arab-Malayalee marriages) were too busy selling the precious “black gold” to waste it in their own kitchens.

Since the buff et wasn’t cutting it for us, we settled for several delicious alternatives from the à la carte menu – fl aky Kerala parottas and lacy-edged appams with Kozhi

Clockwise from le� : Designer tropical islands punctuate the many water bodies at the Vivanta; a waiter dressed up to serve a traditional banana-leaf meal; seashells on the Kappil Beach; lobster features prominently on The Lalit Resort & Spa Bekal’s on-request-only signature seafood platter. Opposite: A Kerala fi sherman’s hands-free method of taking home the day’s catch.

10 KERALA 12.indd 6-7 21/09/12 4:38 PM


WorldMags.net




Garudas over whom the moss is already growing thick, and a giant, rather emaciated Ganesha. Both have been brought in from Bali—in fact, the architecture of the whole resort is Bali-inspired—but stylish doses of local fl avour also abound, none more ubiquitous and larger-than-life than the resort’s signature design motif, the kettuvallam (Kerala rice-boat) roof, whose sinuous curves top rooms, covered walkways, and the entrance porch.

At 26 acres, the Vivanta by Taj - Bekal is huge, so even its full complement of 71 rooms doesn’t take away from the feeling of endless space. The fact that one edge of the property skirts the backwaters all the way until they enter the Arabian Sea and continues to curve along Kappil Beach doesn’t hurt either. But given that Bekal is neither the most accessible destination in the world—you have to first fly into Mangalore airport, and then take a two-hour car ride from there—nor the best-known, you wonder if 71 rooms may not be a bit ambitious. Apparently not, though, for the Vivanta was absolutely buzzing with large family groups the weekend we were there. None of them seemed to have taken advantage of the hotel’s pet-friendly policies yet, but there were plenty of children.

Aggressive marketing has certainly fi lled the Vivanta with enthusiastic guests, but it has forced the resort to compromise, in a sense, on one important aspect—food. In an attempt to satisfy the largest number of guests, the

TWO WELL-KNOWN HOTEL CHAINS HAVE PLANTED THEIR FLAGS SEVEN KILOMETRES NORTH OF BEKAL FORT

buff ets at the all-day restaurant, Latitude, the only one open so far—feature only a couple of token Malayalee dishes. (Hot tip: executive chef Gopal Jayaraman will gladly toss up a karimeen pollichathu or a kozhi adachitathu for you if you ask nicely). In the Vivanta’s defence, it must be said that most people from outside the state are suspicious of Kerala’s cuisine, particularly because of the preponderance of coconut—and coconut oil— in it, and none but the most adventurous will willingly submit themselves to three days of local cuisine.

It is still something of a missed opportunity, though, both for the guests and for the hotel, because north Malabar cuisine, especially the meat-based cuisine of the Muslim Mappilas, is an entity into itself—rich, fragrant, meat-based dishes low on heat and high on fl avour, a unique marriage of local ingredients and the culinary traditions of Arab traders who returned to this coast over thousands of years, lured by the scent of Malabar pepper and the more exotic spices from further east. Funnily enough, pepper itself is almost absent in Mappila cuisine— the story goes that the canny Mappilas (themselves descended from mixed Arab-Malayalee marriages) were too busy selling the precious “black gold” to waste it in their own kitchens.

Since the buff et wasn’t cutting it for us, we settled for several delicious alternatives from the à la carte menu – fl aky Kerala parottas and lacy-edged appams with Kozhi

Clockwise from le� : Designer tropical islands punctuate the many water bodies at the Vivanta; a waiter dressed up to serve a traditional banana-leaf meal; seashells on the Kappil Beach; lobster features prominently on The Lalit Resort & Spa Bekal’s on-request-only signature seafood platter. Opposite: A Kerala fi sherman’s hands-free method of taking home the day’s catch.

10 KERALA 12.indd 6-7 21/09/12 4:38 PM


WorldMags.net




Clockwise from le� : A benevolent Ganesha greets visitors to the Vivanta by Taj - Bekal; baby idlis with a twist at The Lalit Resort & Spa Bekal; pookkalam—fl ower petal rangoli—on Onam morning at the Vivanta; chefs take time off to pose. Opposite: Room service goes out against the backdrop of the hotel’s domed, elephant-themed Ivory Bar.

10 KERALA 12.indd 8-9 21/09/12 4:38 PM


WorldMags.net




Clockwise from le� : A benevolent Ganesha greets visitors to the Vivanta by Taj - Bekal; baby idlis with a twist at The Lalit Resort & Spa Bekal; pookkalam—fl ower petal rangoli—on Onam morning at the Vivanta; chefs take time off to pose. Opposite: Room service goes out against the backdrop of the hotel’s domed, elephant-themed Ivory Bar.

10 KERALA 12.indd 8-9 21/09/12 4:38 PM


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Mappas—chicken in a mild, fl avourful coconut milk gravy with a strong wallop of coriander seed, and a ridiculously good Chemmeen Kariveppila—grilled juicy j-u-m-b-o prawns rubbed with spices and coconut oil and rolled in coarsely-powdered sun-dried curry leaf. Now that we had discovered where the fun was, we spent the next couple of mealtimes cutting a swathe through a bunch of other dishes, including a few Mappila-specifi c ones—several kinds of pathiri (a rice-based bread that evolved in this region to satisfy both the Arab craving for bread at every meal and the Malayalee love of rice ), excellent atterachi varutharacha curry (lamb in a roasted coconut gravy), and a true-blue Mappila biryani, which gets its distinctive taste from the Malabar kaima rice and the addition of a hint of fennel, a spice much favoured by the Mappilas.

We also request a full-course sadya (banana-leaf meal featuring over 25 items) for lunch on our second day. It is served in the old-fashioned way—out of steel four-compartment utensils—by waiters dressed in real mundus. In fact, the only thing not quite authentic about the sadya is that while a traditional one is completely vegetarian, this one includes fi sh and meat, to appease guests who need their daily fi x.

But it is the rooms at the Vivanta by Taj -Bekal that are easily its most delightful and luxurious aspect. Apart from the basic rooms—which are nice enough, with their own balconies, a daybed swing, and backwater views, every other room has its own private courtyard with a daybed swing in lovely curtained alcove. The courtyards get bigger as the rooms slide up the price scale, and go on to include alfresco bathtubs and lap-of-nature showers, sea-facing deck loungers, and private plunge pools. The beautiful—and vast—Jiva Spa, located in its own nook of the property, helps bump up the hedonistic quotient.

The second Bekal resort on our checklist is the older one—The Lalit Resort & Spa Bekal opened as far back as December 2010. The two resorts make for an interesting study in contrasts—for

one thing, within the same area of 26 acres, The Lalit accommodates just 37 rooms, including a spectacular Presidential Villa. And while the resort’s architecture is also Bali-inspired in parts, there is enough authentic Kerala in it to never let you lose sight of where have travelled to.

Here, the accent is entirely on exclusivity—very few guests, extremely personalized service. In fact, you even get your own Holiday Host from the word go, whose fulltime responsibility you become for the duration of your stay. The Lalit’s rooms don’t have courtyards, but they are luxurious too—staples include in-room Jacuzzis and, given that all rooms are set along the backwaters or around man-made lagoons, great views. Scattered across the property are gazebos inspired by Kerala homes, where you can choose to sit around, have a private meal served to you, or take a private yoga class. The exclusivity even extends to banquets—never more than 120 guests in all.

The Lalit Resort & Spa Bekal, which takes its spa status very seriously, is also big on “local”. Where the


THE TWO RESORTS MAKE FOR AN INTERESTING STUDY IN CONTRASTS—FOR ONE THING, WITHIN THE SAME AREA OF 26 ACRES THE LALIT RESORT & SPA BEKAL ACCOMMODATES JUST 37 ROOMS

From top: An inside look at a Spa Room at the Lalit Resort & Spa Bekal; seafood occupies a big part of the menu at both resorts. Opposite: As if the pool, the backwaters, the sea, and the rain weren’t enough, there is also a manmade lagoon at The Lalit.


10 KERALA 12.indd 10-11 21/09/12 4:39 PM


WorldMags.net



Mappas—chicken in a mild, fl avourful coconut milk gravy with a strong wallop of coriander seed, and a ridiculously good Chemmeen Kariveppila—grilled juicy j-u-m-b-o prawns rubbed with spices and coconut oil and rolled in coarsely-powdered sun-dried curry leaf. Now that we had discovered where the fun was, we spent the next couple of mealtimes cutting a swathe through a bunch of other dishes, including a few Mappila-specifi c ones—several kinds of pathiri (a rice-based bread that evolved in this region to satisfy both the Arab craving for bread at every meal and the Malayalee love of rice ), excellent atterachi varutharacha curry (lamb in a roasted coconut gravy), and a true-blue Mappila biryani, which gets its distinctive taste from the Malabar kaima rice and the addition of a hint of fennel, a spice much favoured by the Mappilas.

We also request a full-course sadya (banana-leaf meal featuring over 25 items) for lunch on our second day. It is served in the old-fashioned way—out of steel four-compartment utensils—by waiters dressed in real mundus. In fact, the only thing not quite authentic about the sadya is that while a traditional one is completely vegetarian, this one includes fi sh and meat, to appease guests who need their daily fi x.

But it is the rooms at the Vivanta by Taj -Bekal that are easily its most delightful and luxurious aspect. Apart from the basic rooms—which are nice enough, with their own balconies, a daybed swing, and backwater views, every other room has its own private courtyard with a daybed swing in lovely curtained alcove. The courtyards get bigger as the rooms slide up the price scale, and go on to include alfresco bathtubs and lap-of-nature showers, sea-facing deck loungers, and private plunge pools. The beautiful—and vast—Jiva Spa, located in its own nook of the property, helps bump up the hedonistic quotient.

The second Bekal resort on our checklist is the older one—The Lalit Resort & Spa Bekal opened as far back as December 2010. The two resorts make for an interesting study in contrasts—for

one thing, within the same area of 26 acres, The Lalit accommodates just 37 rooms, including a spectacular Presidential Villa. And while the resort’s architecture is also Bali-inspired in parts, there is enough authentic Kerala in it to never let you lose sight of where have travelled to.

Here, the accent is entirely on exclusivity—very few guests, extremely personalized service. In fact, you even get your own Holiday Host from the word go, whose fulltime responsibility you become for the duration of your stay. The Lalit’s rooms don’t have courtyards, but they are luxurious too—staples include in-room Jacuzzis and, given that all rooms are set along the backwaters or around man-made lagoons, great views. Scattered across the property are gazebos inspired by Kerala homes, where you can choose to sit around, have a private meal served to you, or take a private yoga class. The exclusivity even extends to banquets—never more than 120 guests in all.

The Lalit Resort & Spa Bekal, which takes its spa status very seriously, is also big on “local”. Where the


THE TWO RESORTS MAKE FOR AN INTERESTING STUDY IN CONTRASTS—FOR ONE THING, WITHIN THE SAME AREA OF 26 ACRES THE LALIT RESORT & SPA BEKAL ACCOMMODATES JUST 37 ROOMS

From top: An inside look at a Spa Room at the Lalit Resort & Spa Bekal; seafood occupies a big part of the menu at both resorts. Opposite: As if the pool, the backwaters, the sea, and the rain weren’t enough, there is also a manmade lagoon at The Lalit.


10 KERALA 12.indd 10-11 21/09/12 4:39 PM


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TR AV E L+LE ISU RE O C TO B E R 2012 6766 O C TO B E R 2012 TR AV E L+LE ISU RE

alongside a tower of papad slivers on which half a peeled banana—of the tiniest variety—perched precariously. It seemed a strange combination, but we went ahead and did what we were told—pour the payasam over the papad tower, mash the banana into it, and eat it with your fi ngers. I would travel back to Bekal just to eat it again.

Granted, some of the items don’t work as well as the others, and yes, this menu could be intimidating to some, so there is also a full Indian menu—where gosht roganjosh rubs shoulders with ajwaini paneer tikka.

“After three-four days, everyone needs their comfort food,” shrugs Krishnan. “But I must tell you a secret—my brief is to ensure that every guest tries Kerala food at least once during his stay. The way we cook it here will dismiss all their preconceived notions about our food and hopefully lead them to experiment with it even after they go back home.” Which isn’t that diffi cult an agenda for him to push, given that he personally sits down with every guest who checks in to fi gure out his food preferences, before he gets down to preparing a customized menu for him.

One good way in which the Vivanta and The Lalit are similar, though, is in the choices they provide to guests to spare them the tedium of eating in the same restaurant throughout their stay. Between the two, you can take your pick from a private lunch or dinner at a riverside or lagoon-side tent or gazebo, on a fl oating pontoon in the middle of the river, on a traditional Kerala houseboat, in a machan by the sea, or in your own courtyard.

Even as this article goes to press, other hotel chains are making their moves on beautiful Bekal, but you don’t have to sit around waiting for that to happen. With these two fabulous, and quite distinctive, resorts already in place, all that’s left for you to do now is to pick one—or both—and go.�

BEST TIME TO VISITOctober to February

STAYVivanta by Taj - Bekal From morning yoga sessions, kayaking and canoeing, croquet, archery there’s plenty to do. They also have a well-equipped reading room-cum- library and the signature Taj store, Khazana. The hotel can organise excursions to nearby temples, the Bekal Fort, and a kettuvallam ride/ lunch on the Nileshwaram river, 26 kilometres away. Kappil Beach,

Kasaragod; 91-467/661-6612; vivantabytaj.com; doubles from Rs 13,500.

The Lalit Resort & Spa Bekal Yoga with an instructor, canoeing and kayaking and excursions to surrounding attractions can all be organized.Bevoori Uduma Kasargod; 91-467/223-7777; thelalit.com; doubles from Rs 20,000. You can also spend a night on the kettuvallam on the backwaters bordering the hotel for Rs 25,000 per person.

Getting ThereBekal is a seaside town in Kerala’s northernmost district, Kasargod, about 75 kilometres from Mangalore in Karnataka. The best way is to fl y into Mangalore and take a cab from there, or have the hotel pick you up.

T+L Guide

Taj’s Jiva Spa is international and cosmopolitan in terms of its palette of offerings, the Lalit’s Rejuve is rooted in traditional Ayurveda—a flourishing medicinal herb garden is an important part of the landscape, and authentic Ayurvedic treatments are administered in beautiful treatment rooms cleverly designed to bring the outside in, without any loss of privacy.

But where the two resorts depart most from each other is in relation to the food they off er their guests. Simply put, there are no buff ets at The Lalit’s all day dining restaurant, Nombili. Instead, there is an eclectic á la carte menu in which local-traditional and international-contemporary fuse deliciously and with great panache. These are dishes imagined into existence by executive chef Biju Krishnan, who is not only passionate about his craft but is fanatic about the food philosophy of the resort—fresh, healthy, light, beautifully-presented spa cuisine that is far from boring, fashioned out of mostly local ingredients, some of which come right off the resort’s “edible landscape”.

Sample these menu picks for inventiveness—curried polenta with baby onion theeyal and salsa fresca, rasam redefi ned with braised onion and fi sh ravioli, pesto soaked string hoppers with gruyère cheese bites, tender coconut pannacotta... The raw food section features such lovelies as fresh avocado guacamole on sweet pepper, vegetable lasagne with tangy chutney and fresh yoghurt, and discs of apple and fi g with rock salt.

We opted to put aside the menu and watch the chef cook up a dinner for us instead—carrot and cumin soup with ragi (black millet) ravioli, tricolour puttu, vegetable mappas with njavara rice, and an absolutely sensational Malabar fi sh curry. We rounded it off with a stylishly presented dessert—parippu (lentil) payasam served

Clockwise from top le� : Potted plants around the in-room Jacuzzi heighten the sense of being one with nature at the Lalit Resort & Spa Bekal; The Lalit’s activity room; a good way to while the a� ernoon away at the Lalit; lounging room at the Rejuve Spa; chef Biju Krishnan demonstrates the correct way to make a Malabar fi sh curry .

At The Lalit Resort & Spa Bekal

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alongside a tower of papad slivers on which half a peeled banana—of the tiniest variety—perched precariously. It seemed a strange combination, but we went ahead and did what we were told—pour the payasam over the papad tower, mash the banana into it, and eat it with your fi ngers. I would travel back to Bekal just to eat it again.

Granted, some of the items don’t work as well as the others, and yes, this menu could be intimidating to some, so there is also a full Indian menu—where gosht roganjosh rubs shoulders with ajwaini paneer tikka.

“After three-four days, everyone needs their comfort food,” shrugs Krishnan. “But I must tell you a secret—my brief is to ensure that every guest tries Kerala food at least once during his stay. The way we cook it here will dismiss all their preconceived notions about our food and hopefully lead them to experiment with it even after they go back home.” Which isn’t that diffi cult an agenda for him to push, given that he personally sits down with every guest who checks in to fi gure out his food preferences, before he gets down to preparing a customized menu for him.

One good way in which the Vivanta and The Lalit are similar, though, is in the choices they provide to guests to spare them the tedium of eating in the same restaurant throughout their stay. Between the two, you can take your pick from a private lunch or dinner at a riverside or lagoon-side tent or gazebo, on a fl oating pontoon in the middle of the river, on a traditional Kerala houseboat, in a machan by the sea, or in your own courtyard.

Even as this article goes to press, other hotel chains are making their moves on beautiful Bekal, but you don’t have to sit around waiting for that to happen. With these two fabulous, and quite distinctive, resorts already in place, all that’s left for you to do now is to pick one—or both—and go.�

BEST TIME TO VISITOctober to February

STAYVivanta by Taj - Bekal From morning yoga sessions, kayaking and canoeing, croquet, archery there’s plenty to do. They also have a well-equipped reading room-cum- library and the signature Taj store, Khazana. The hotel can organise excursions to nearby temples, the Bekal Fort, and a kettuvallam ride/ lunch on the Nileshwaram river, 26 kilometres away. Kappil Beach,

Kasaragod; 91-467/661-6612; vivantabytaj.com; doubles from Rs 13,500.

The Lalit Resort & Spa Bekal Yoga with an instructor, canoeing and kayaking and excursions to surrounding attractions can all be organized.Bevoori Uduma Kasargod; 91-467/223-7777; thelalit.com; doubles from Rs 20,000. You can also spend a night on the kettuvallam on the backwaters bordering the hotel for Rs 25,000 per person.

Getting ThereBekal is a seaside town in Kerala’s northernmost district, Kasargod, about 75 kilometres from Mangalore in Karnataka. The best way is to fl y into Mangalore and take a cab from there, or have the hotel pick you up.

T+L Guide

Taj’s Jiva Spa is international and cosmopolitan in terms of its palette of offerings, the Lalit’s Rejuve is rooted in traditional Ayurveda—a flourishing medicinal herb garden is an important part of the landscape, and authentic Ayurvedic treatments are administered in beautiful treatment rooms cleverly designed to bring the outside in, without any loss of privacy.

But where the two resorts depart most from each other is in relation to the food they off er their guests. Simply put, there are no buff ets at The Lalit’s all day dining restaurant, Nombili. Instead, there is an eclectic á la carte menu in which local-traditional and international-contemporary fuse deliciously and with great panache. These are dishes imagined into existence by executive chef Biju Krishnan, who is not only passionate about his craft but is fanatic about the food philosophy of the resort—fresh, healthy, light, beautifully-presented spa cuisine that is far from boring, fashioned out of mostly local ingredients, some of which come right off the resort’s “edible landscape”.

Sample these menu picks for inventiveness—curried polenta with baby onion theeyal and salsa fresca, rasam redefi ned with braised onion and fi sh ravioli, pesto soaked string hoppers with gruyère cheese bites, tender coconut pannacotta... The raw food section features such lovelies as fresh avocado guacamole on sweet pepper, vegetable lasagne with tangy chutney and fresh yoghurt, and discs of apple and fi g with rock salt.

We opted to put aside the menu and watch the chef cook up a dinner for us instead—carrot and cumin soup with ragi (black millet) ravioli, tricolour puttu, vegetable mappas with njavara rice, and an absolutely sensational Malabar fi sh curry. We rounded it off with a stylishly presented dessert—parippu (lentil) payasam served

Clockwise from top le� : Potted plants around the in-room Jacuzzi heighten the sense of being one with nature at the Lalit Resort & Spa Bekal; The Lalit’s activity room; a good way to while the a� ernoon away at the Lalit; lounging room at the Rejuve Spa; chef Biju Krishnan demonstrates the correct way to make a Malabar fi sh curry .

At The Lalit Resort & Spa Bekal

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GUIDE + MAP > PAGE 00

Ullate provit, aut ut of the dolor eheni ditiam ut pra cum nimus daerum susant. Lorem ipsum quunt que.

Thanks to an infusion of fashion-forward

shops and nightlife, inventive restaurants,

and top-tier design, Canada’s largest city

has gained a newfound swagger and an

edgy style all its own. BY JONAT H A N DU R BI N

Toronto Lights Up

PHO T O GR APH E D BY ROB F IO CCA

The Royal Ontario Museum, in downtown Toronto, with Daniel Libeskind’s Michael Lee-Chin Crystal addition at right.

10-TORONTO LIGHTS-12.indd 2-3 21/09/12 3:21 PM


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GUIDE + MAP > PAGE 00

Ullate provit, aut ut of the dolor eheni ditiam ut pra cum nimus daerum susant. Lorem ipsum quunt que.

Thanks to an infusion of fashion-forward

shops and nightlife, inventive restaurants,

and top-tier design, Canada’s largest city

has gained a newfound swagger and an

edgy style all its own. BY JONAT H A N DU R BI N

Toronto Lights Up

PHO T O GR APH E D BY ROB F IO CCA

The Royal Ontario Museum, in downtown Toronto, with Daniel Libeskind’s Michael Lee-Chin Crystal addition at right.



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On a recent Saturday evening in downtown Toronto, underground superstar the Weeknd made a rare hometown appearance. The 22-year-old musician (real name: Abel Tesfaye)—known for grinding, clothing-optional hip-hop, R&B, and electronic jams—was DJ-ing a set at one of his local hangouts, a speakeasy-style cocktail lounge called Goodnight. It was too packed to dance, but that didn’t stop people from trying; the multi-ethnic crush of twenty- and thirtysomethings jostled roughly in time to the beat. From the unmarked alley-side entrance to the retro drinks menu (featuring such concoctions as the Monkey Gland and Satan’s Whiskers), the scene had the hallmarks of the kind of nightlife people like to later claim they’d been a part of—the sort of party that, once the hangover subsides, inspires screenplays and fashion shoots and commemorative coffee-table books. Goodnight was impossibly stylish and photogenic. It felt slightly dangerous, out of control, and loaded with possibility.

It was not the Toronto I remembered. Safe, clean, bland: until quite recently, these were the

adjectives traditionally applied to Canada’s financial and media capital. Toronto was known primarily for its livability, and for its admirably welcoming attitude towards immigrants. Yet despite a steady influx of new cultures, the city lacked verve, vitality, a sense of pride or of real identity. What Toronto was missing in character, it made up for in its rigorous pursuit of sensible liberal values. For cultural cues, Toronto looked to both New York and London, while keeping a disdainful eye on its more effortlessly hip older sibling, Montreal. It exported

some of its talent to the United States, but—as is generally true of Canadian artists—those who stayed behind found that their fame stayed behind, too. (The Tragically Hip, indeed.)

Lately, however, Toronto has undergone a remarkable sea change, one that’s redefining the city as stylish, sophisticated, cosmopolitan—cool, even—yet still utterly local. Goodnight is emblematic of this new spirit, as is Matt George, the guy behind the bar, who happens to be the owner. A former snowboarder turned entrepreneur who moved to Toronto from England when he was 21 , George is street-smart, business-minded, and totally committed to his adopted hometown. In addition to Goodnight—a favourite haunt of Toronto-based musicians such as Drake and Metric—he owns an upscale-casual men’s clothing store, Nomad, that features a selection of up-and-coming labels (Robert Geller; Gitman Bros. Vintage; S.N.S. Herning) and understated Canadian brands such as the easily wearable (despite the name) Wings & Horns. With footholds in fashion, music, and nightlife, George is undeniably wired into Toronto society and beyond. (At press time, he was one of only five people whom Kanye West followed on Twitter.) And his burgeoning empire—which stretches from Toronto’s increasingly polished, high-rise-filled downtown to the Queen West enclave, full of trendsetting shops, restaurants, and bars—mirrors the evolution of the city itself.

T oronto’s transformation can be traced, in part, through its changing skyline. The uninspiring, 36-year-old CN Tower, the tallest freestanding structure in North America , is no longer the city’s

defining landmark. In the past decade, starchitects have been reimagining downtown Toronto: there’s Will Alsop’s Sharp Centre for Design at the Ontario College of Art & Design, a black-and-white domino held aloft by brightly coloured struts that resemble pick-up sticks. There’s Daniel Libeskind’s alternately lauded and reviled Michael Lee-Chin Crystal, an addition to the Royal Ontario Museum—all steel, glass, and hard angles that sever the stately lines of an otherwise lovely building. Most successful is Frank Gehry’s expansion of the Art Gallery of Ontario, with its graceful, curvilinear glasswork melded to the

Clockwise from top le� : A guest suite at the Drake Hotel, Toronto; men’s shoes at Sydney’s, on Queen Street West; inside the Art Gallery of Ontario; happy hour at the Drake Hotel’s Sky Yard; the Sharp Centre for Design. Opposite: The Distillery District, on Toronto’s east side.

exterior of the building. And at the heart of downtown—just west of the Financial District—is the monolithic TIFF Bell Lightbox, the USD 191 million headquarters of the Toronto International Film Festival, held each September.

Plenty of cities can lay claim to high-profile architecture. Paralleling this, however, is an insatiable boom in residential and hotel development . According to research company Emporis, Toronto has more high-rises under construction than any other city on the continent. The view from the roof of my hotel, the recently opened Thompson, recalls Shanghai or Dubai; I lost count of all the cranes. Among the current builds are the new flagship Four Seasons Hotel, opening this October and featuring Daniel Boulud’s first restaurant in the city; and the massive Shangri-La Hotel, that is debuting soon with another New York restaurant import, an outpost of David

Chang’s Momofuku chain. Both properties arrive hard on the heels of the Ritz-Carlton and Trump hotels that opened in February 2011 and January 2012, respectively.

The real estate market, meanwhile, has been humming along unabated by the financial crisis, a fact that can be partly attributed to immigration: greater Toronto is growing by 100,000 people each year , with the biggest percentage arriving from urban centres in South Asia and China. (It’s a good town for dumplings.) Indeed, the population is large enough to support two Chinatowns in the city centre alone, one downtown and one just east . Still other neighbourhoods are dominated by émigrés from Italy, Portugal, Greece, and the Philippines. When I was growing up there in the 1970’s and 80’s, multiculturalism was the ethos of Toronto’s immigration policy—in contrast to the “melting pot” drive for homogeneity



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On a recent Saturday evening in downtown Toronto, underground superstar the Weeknd made a rare hometown appearance. The 22-year-old musician (real name: Abel Tesfaye)—known for grinding, clothing-optional hip-hop, R&B, and electronic jams—was DJ-ing a set at one of his local hangouts, a speakeasy-style cocktail lounge called Goodnight. It was too packed to dance, but that didn’t stop people from trying; the multi-ethnic crush of twenty- and thirtysomethings jostled roughly in time to the beat. From the unmarked alley-side entrance to the retro drinks menu (featuring such concoctions as the Monkey Gland and Satan’s Whiskers), the scene had the hallmarks of the kind of nightlife people like to later claim they’d been a part of—the sort of party that, once the hangover subsides, inspires screenplays and fashion shoots and commemorative coffee-table books. Goodnight was impossibly stylish and photogenic. It felt slightly dangerous, out of control, and loaded with possibility.

It was not the Toronto I remembered. Safe, clean, bland: until quite recently, these were the

adjectives traditionally applied to Canada’s financial and media capital. Toronto was known primarily for its livability, and for its admirably welcoming attitude towards immigrants. Yet despite a steady influx of new cultures, the city lacked verve, vitality, a sense of pride or of real identity. What Toronto was missing in character, it made up for in its rigorous pursuit of sensible liberal values. For cultural cues, Toronto looked to both New York and London, while keeping a disdainful eye on its more effortlessly hip older sibling, Montreal. It exported

some of its talent to the United States, but—as is generally true of Canadian artists—those who stayed behind found that their fame stayed behind, too. (The Tragically Hip, indeed.)

Lately, however, Toronto has undergone a remarkable sea change, one that’s redefining the city as stylish, sophisticated, cosmopolitan—cool, even—yet still utterly local. Goodnight is emblematic of this new spirit, as is Matt George, the guy behind the bar, who happens to be the owner. A former snowboarder turned entrepreneur who moved to Toronto from England when he was 21 , George is street-smart, business-minded, and totally committed to his adopted hometown. In addition to Goodnight—a favourite haunt of Toronto-based musicians such as Drake and Metric—he owns an upscale-casual men’s clothing store, Nomad, that features a selection of up-and-coming labels (Robert Geller; Gitman Bros. Vintage; S.N.S. Herning) and understated Canadian brands such as the easily wearable (despite the name) Wings & Horns. With footholds in fashion, music, and nightlife, George is undeniably wired into Toronto society and beyond. (At press time, he was one of only five people whom Kanye West followed on Twitter.) And his burgeoning empire—which stretches from Toronto’s increasingly polished, high-rise-filled downtown to the Queen West enclave, full of trendsetting shops, restaurants, and bars—mirrors the evolution of the city itself.

T oronto’s transformation can be traced, in part, through its changing skyline. The uninspiring, 36-year-old CN Tower, the tallest freestanding structure in North America , is no longer the city’s

defining landmark. In the past decade, starchitects have been reimagining downtown Toronto: there’s Will Alsop’s Sharp Centre for Design at the Ontario College of Art & Design, a black-and-white domino held aloft by brightly coloured struts that resemble pick-up sticks. There’s Daniel Libeskind’s alternately lauded and reviled Michael Lee-Chin Crystal, an addition to the Royal Ontario Museum—all steel, glass, and hard angles that sever the stately lines of an otherwise lovely building. Most successful is Frank Gehry’s expansion of the Art Gallery of Ontario, with its graceful, curvilinear glasswork melded to the

Clockwise from top le� : A guest suite at the Drake Hotel, Toronto; men’s shoes at Sydney’s, on Queen Street West; inside the Art Gallery of Ontario; happy hour at the Drake Hotel’s Sky Yard; the Sharp Centre for Design. Opposite: The Distillery District, on Toronto’s east side.

exterior of the building. And at the heart of downtown—just west of the Financial District—is the monolithic TIFF Bell Lightbox, the USD 191 million headquarters of the Toronto International Film Festival, held each September.

Plenty of cities can lay claim to high-profile architecture. Paralleling this, however, is an insatiable boom in residential and hotel development . According to research company Emporis, Toronto has more high-rises under construction than any other city on the continent. The view from the roof of my hotel, the recently opened Thompson, recalls Shanghai or Dubai; I lost count of all the cranes. Among the current builds are the new flagship Four Seasons Hotel, opening this October and featuring Daniel Boulud’s first restaurant in the city; and the massive Shangri-La Hotel, that is debuting soon with another New York restaurant import, an outpost of David

Chang’s Momofuku chain. Both properties arrive hard on the heels of the Ritz-Carlton and Trump hotels that opened in February 2011 and January 2012, respectively.

The real estate market, meanwhile, has been humming along unabated by the financial crisis, a fact that can be partly attributed to immigration: greater Toronto is growing by 100,000 people each year , with the biggest percentage arriving from urban centres in South Asia and China. (It’s a good town for dumplings.) Indeed, the population is large enough to support two Chinatowns in the city centre alone, one downtown and one just east . Still other neighbourhoods are dominated by émigrés from Italy, Portugal, Greece, and the Philippines. When I was growing up there in the 1970’s and 80’s, multiculturalism was the ethos of Toronto’s immigration policy—in contrast to the “melting pot” drive for homogeneity



WorldMags.net




embraced in the United States—and remains very much a point of local pride. The range and variety of national heritages here is never more evident than during the FIFA World Cup , when the entire city develops a raging case of fútbol fever.

What makes all this especially exciting for travellers is that while downtown Toronto grows ever denser and more international, the city’s creative classes have established stylish outposts all their own. Look at Queen West (one of the city’s thriving art and design districts, anchored along a five-kilometre stretch of Queen Street); at the Distillery District (a complex of shops, restaurants, and arts organizations located on the 14-acre grounds of a former whiskey distillery, on Toronto’s east side); and at Little Italy (a charming district of bars and eateries along College Street, to the north). In any of the above, you can’t get too far without running into a table crafted out of a reclaimed barn door. There’s a bountiful supply of Edison-bulb-lit restaurants emphasizing seasonal organic ingredients; stores stocking both international and homegrown designers; galleries, theatres, and music venues; and clubs and lounges you might actually want to spend an evening in. And

despite the increasingly urbane and worldly vibe, the city still pays tribute to the big-sky country surrounding it. (Drive north from downtown and you reach real Canadian wilderness in almost no time.) In its way, Toronto feels like a frontier town—one that’s in the midst of a cultural gold rush.

Q ueen West is the apotheosis of the city’s new energy, a swathe of row houses and former factories reminiscent of London’s East End or parts of Brooklyn. This is where you’d want to move if you were young and in a band. “My joke

was always that you couldn’t find a roll of toilet paper, and now you can get an ironic Sonic Youth onesie for your baby,” said singer Emily Haines, of Metric and Broken Social Scene , a longtime Queen West resident.

On weekends the neighbourhood feels like a playground for street-style photographers—not surprising given the ever expanding collection of fashion boutiques. Besides Matt George’s Nomad, there’s Sydney’s, which carries men’s wear from Dries Van Noten, Jil Sander, and Japanese brand the Viridi-anne; and the local label Klaxon Howl, which, in addition to vintage military gear, sells its own men’s clothing: stiff selvage denim and chinos; flannel scarves; ultra-structured shirts. It’s the chic, woodsy look: wear it the next time you’re hiking to a model casting.

For all the global brands, there’s a distinctly local flavour to Queen West—this isn’t Hipsterville, Anywhere. The neighbourhood’s two standout hotels, the Gladstone and the Drake, both feature Canadian artworks; at the former, a different Ontario artist decorated each of the 37 guestrooms, while the Drake employs a full-time curator and rotates its

collection throughout the hotel every month. Both properties were 19th-century Trunk Railway lodgings that had fallen on hard times before being renovated. Jeff Stober, who bought the Drake in 2001 and reopened it three years later , sees the hotel as a cultural space for Torontonians. “As the downtown core becomes more dense, you can only do so much entertaining in your personal living spaces,” he said. “What happens by default is that the city becomes your living room. From store owners to restaurateurs, everyone recognizes that this is a really good place to pitch a tent.”

Or to build a brand. Stober also owns three shops—one of them attached to the hotel—called Drake General Store. Their stock capitalizes on a groundswell of hometown pride, running the gamut from genuinely desirable stuff (Hudson’s Bay Company blankets) to Canadiana kitsch—maple syrup, red-cedar incense (which, full disclosure, I bought and love), and a decorative ceramic dish that reads I MISS THE OLD BLUE JAYS, a reference to the 1990’s glory days of Toronto’s baseball team.

This sense of affectionate irreverence is pervasive in the city. My favourite instance: a quote from the late journalist Pierre Berton, emblazoned in a hallway at the Thompson : “A Canadian is someone who knows how to make love in a canoe.” At the splendid Frank’s Kitchen, a small, chef-owned spot in Little Italy, half the menu reads like a caricature of what you’d think Canadians might eat: rare elk loin; rarer venison tartare. Both are fantastic.

Torontonians are effusive in promoting one another. After a tour through his Nomad boutique, George took me to a new boutique hotel in the Entertainment District designed by a friend of his named Del Terrelonge. Called the Templar Hotel—“as in Simon, not the Knights,” Terrelonge qualified—the hotel has 27 smartly decorated suites and lofts, a spa, and a chef’s-table restaurant called Monk Kitchen; deploys a Porsche Panamera as an airport shuttle; and features a lap pool with a transparent floor that’s positioned over the lobby’s lounge area .

When I asked for dinner recommendations, George steered me to Woodlot: bakery by day, restaurant by night, in a warm, inviting, bi-level space with Native Canadian artwork on the walls and a casually stylish waitstaff. Chef-owner David Haman’s style of cooking has been dubbed “urban lumberjack” by the Toronto press; though I was sceptical, his food turned out to be the finest of my trip. The bipartite menu offers both “Regular” and “Without Meat” options: whey-fed pork chop and steak on one side, caramelized Jerusalem artichokes and roast Japanese sweet potato on the other. Almost everything comes out of the restaurant’s wood-burning oven.

There wasn’t any place like Woodlot when I lived in Toronto. But the restaurant and its small-scale, artisanal approach seem to represent the future: a well-designed, thoroughly confident experience that respects Toronto’s heritage and simultaneously breaks new ground. There was no sense that the place was a knockoff or that it owed its menu and genial vibe to some other restaurant, in some other city. And thanks to the wood-burning oven, I left smelling like I’d been at a campfire. How Canadian is that? �

Jonathan Durbin is a New York City–based writer whose work has appeared in Esquire, Paper, and Interview.

T+L GuideGetting There Air France and Jet Airways fl y to Toronto Pearson International Airport. Visas are mandatory and can be obtained at the High Commission of Canada (7/8 Shantipath, Chanakyapuri, Delhi; 91-11/4178-2000; canadainternational.gc.ca/india) and cost Rs 3,975.

Getting AroundToronto’s bus and subway system is effi cient and costs USD 3 a ride—better than negotiating the city’s traffi c. ttc.ca.

M

Clockwise from far le� : At Goodnight bar; Templar Hotel; a view from the roof of the Thompson hotel; The Woodlot, a restaurant and bakery in Toronto’s Little Italy.

Toronto

0.5 MI �0.8 KM�0

N

DUNDAS ST. W.

QUEEN ST. W.

KING ST. W.

F. G. GARDINER EXPWY.

EAST CHINATOWN

QUEEN WEST

OSSINGTON

LITTLE ITALYCOLLEGE ST.

QUEEN’S PARK

UN

IVE

RS

ITY

AV

E.

ROYAL ONTARIO MUSEUM

BLOOR ST. W.

CHINATOWN

ART GALLERY OF ONTARIOSHARP CENTRE

FOR DESIGN

ENTERTAINMENTDISTRICT

FINANCIALDISTRICT

CN TOWER

TIFF BELL LIGHTBOX

DISTILLERY DISTRICT

hotels $ Less than $200 $$ $200 to $350 $$$ $350 to $500 $$$$ $500 to $1,000 $$$$$ More than $1,000restaurants $ Less than $25 $$ $25 to $75 $$$ $75 to $150 $$$$ More than $150

STAYDrake Hotel 1150 Queen St. W.; thedrakehotel.ca. $Four Seasons Hotel 60 Yorkville Ave.; fourseasons.com. $$$Gladstone Hotel 1214 Queen St. W.; gladstonehotel.com. $Ritz-Carlton 181 Wellington St. W.; ritzcarlton.com. $$$$ Shangri-La Hotel 188 University Ave.; shangri-la.com; rates not available at press time. Templar Hotel 348 Adelaide St. W.; designhotels.com. $$$Thompson 550 Wellington St. W.; thompsonhotels.com. $$Trump International Hotel & Tower 325 Bay St.; trumphotelcollection.com. $$$$

EATCafé Boulud 60 Yorkville Ave.; danielnyc.com . $$$Feasting Room Nose-to-tail pop-up (open through Nov.) from an alum of London’s St. John restaurant. 580A College St.;

thefeastingroom.com . $$$ Frank’s Kitchen 588 College St.; 416/516-5861. $$$ Goodnight 431 Richmond St. W.; goodnightbar.com. Keriwa Café Seasonal, indigenous cuisine made by a Canadian Siksika tribe descendant . 1690 Queen St. W.; keriwacafe.ca. $$$ Luma Inside the TIFF Bell Lightbox and run by Oliver & Bonacini, the duo behind local hot spots Bannock, Jump, and Canoe. 350 King St. W.; oliverbonacini.com. $$$ Monk Kitchen 348 Adelaide St. W.; 416/479-4080. $$$$Origin Go early for creative cocktails on the patio, and stay for favourites like the Bangkok beef salad with mango. 107-109 King St. E.; origintoronto.com. $$$ Woodlot 293 Palmerston Ave.; woodlotrestaurant.com. $$$

DOArt Gallery of Ontario 317 Dundas St. W.; ago.net.Distillery District 55 Mill St.; distillery district.com.Royal Ontario Museum 100 Bloor St. W.; rom.on.ca.Sharp Centre for Design At Ontario College of Art & Design, 100 McCaul St.; ocadu.ca.TIFF Bell Lightbox 350 King St. W.; tiff .net.

SHOP Drake General Store Queen 1144 Queen St. W. ; drakegeneralstore.ca. Klaxon Howl 706 Queen St. W.; klaxonhowl.com.Nomad 819 Queen St. W.; nomadshop.net.Sydney’s 682 Queen St. W.; shopsydneys.com.



WorldMags.net




embraced in the United States—and remains very much a point of local pride. The range and variety of national heritages here is never more evident than during the FIFA World Cup , when the entire city develops a raging case of fútbol fever.

What makes all this especially exciting for travellers is that while downtown Toronto grows ever denser and more international, the city’s creative classes have established stylish outposts all their own. Look at Queen West (one of the city’s thriving art and design districts, anchored along a five-kilometre stretch of Queen Street); at the Distillery District (a complex of shops, restaurants, and arts organizations located on the 14-acre grounds of a former whiskey distillery, on Toronto’s east side); and at Little Italy (a charming district of bars and eateries along College Street, to the north). In any of the above, you can’t get too far without running into a table crafted out of a reclaimed barn door. There’s a bountiful supply of Edison-bulb-lit restaurants emphasizing seasonal organic ingredients; stores stocking both international and homegrown designers; galleries, theatres, and music venues; and clubs and lounges you might actually want to spend an evening in. And

despite the increasingly urbane and worldly vibe, the city still pays tribute to the big-sky country surrounding it. (Drive north from downtown and you reach real Canadian wilderness in almost no time.) In its way, Toronto feels like a frontier town—one that’s in the midst of a cultural gold rush.

Q ueen West is the apotheosis of the city’s new energy, a swathe of row houses and former factories reminiscent of London’s East End or parts of Brooklyn. This is where you’d want to move if you were young and in a band. “My joke

was always that you couldn’t find a roll of toilet paper, and now you can get an ironic Sonic Youth onesie for your baby,” said singer Emily Haines, of Metric and Broken Social Scene , a longtime Queen West resident.

On weekends the neighbourhood feels like a playground for street-style photographers—not surprising given the ever expanding collection of fashion boutiques. Besides Matt George’s Nomad, there’s Sydney’s, which carries men’s wear from Dries Van Noten, Jil Sander, and Japanese brand the Viridi-anne; and the local label Klaxon Howl, which, in addition to vintage military gear, sells its own men’s clothing: stiff selvage denim and chinos; flannel scarves; ultra-structured shirts. It’s the chic, woodsy look: wear it the next time you’re hiking to a model casting.

For all the global brands, there’s a distinctly local flavour to Queen West—this isn’t Hipsterville, Anywhere. The neighbourhood’s two standout hotels, the Gladstone and the Drake, both feature Canadian artworks; at the former, a different Ontario artist decorated each of the 37 guestrooms, while the Drake employs a full-time curator and rotates its

collection throughout the hotel every month. Both properties were 19th-century Trunk Railway lodgings that had fallen on hard times before being renovated. Jeff Stober, who bought the Drake in 2001 and reopened it three years later , sees the hotel as a cultural space for Torontonians. “As the downtown core becomes more dense, you can only do so much entertaining in your personal living spaces,” he said. “What happens by default is that the city becomes your living room. From store owners to restaurateurs, everyone recognizes that this is a really good place to pitch a tent.”

Or to build a brand. Stober also owns three shops—one of them attached to the hotel—called Drake General Store. Their stock capitalizes on a groundswell of hometown pride, running the gamut from genuinely desirable stuff (Hudson’s Bay Company blankets) to Canadiana kitsch—maple syrup, red-cedar incense (which, full disclosure, I bought and love), and a decorative ceramic dish that reads I MISS THE OLD BLUE JAYS, a reference to the 1990’s glory days of Toronto’s baseball team.

This sense of affectionate irreverence is pervasive in the city. My favourite instance: a quote from the late journalist Pierre Berton, emblazoned in a hallway at the Thompson : “A Canadian is someone who knows how to make love in a canoe.” At the splendid Frank’s Kitchen, a small, chef-owned spot in Little Italy, half the menu reads like a caricature of what you’d think Canadians might eat: rare elk loin; rarer venison tartare. Both are fantastic.

Torontonians are effusive in promoting one another. After a tour through his Nomad boutique, George took me to a new boutique hotel in the Entertainment District designed by a friend of his named Del Terrelonge. Called the Templar Hotel—“as in Simon, not the Knights,” Terrelonge qualified—the hotel has 27 smartly decorated suites and lofts, a spa, and a chef’s-table restaurant called Monk Kitchen; deploys a Porsche Panamera as an airport shuttle; and features a lap pool with a transparent floor that’s positioned over the lobby’s lounge area .

When I asked for dinner recommendations, George steered me to Woodlot: bakery by day, restaurant by night, in a warm, inviting, bi-level space with Native Canadian artwork on the walls and a casually stylish waitstaff. Chef-owner David Haman’s style of cooking has been dubbed “urban lumberjack” by the Toronto press; though I was sceptical, his food turned out to be the finest of my trip. The bipartite menu offers both “Regular” and “Without Meat” options: whey-fed pork chop and steak on one side, caramelized Jerusalem artichokes and roast Japanese sweet potato on the other. Almost everything comes out of the restaurant’s wood-burning oven.

There wasn’t any place like Woodlot when I lived in Toronto. But the restaurant and its small-scale, artisanal approach seem to represent the future: a well-designed, thoroughly confident experience that respects Toronto’s heritage and simultaneously breaks new ground. There was no sense that the place was a knockoff or that it owed its menu and genial vibe to some other restaurant, in some other city. And thanks to the wood-burning oven, I left smelling like I’d been at a campfire. How Canadian is that? �

Jonathan Durbin is a New York City–based writer whose work has appeared in Esquire, Paper, and Interview.

T+L GuideGetting There Air France and Jet Airways fl y to Toronto Pearson International Airport. Visas are mandatory and can be obtained at the High Commission of Canada (7/8 Shantipath, Chanakyapuri, Delhi; 91-11/4178-2000; canadainternational.gc.ca/india) and cost Rs 3,975.

Getting AroundToronto’s bus and subway system is effi cient and costs USD 3 a ride—better than negotiating the city’s traffi c. ttc.ca.

M

Clockwise from far le� : At Goodnight bar; Templar Hotel; a view from the roof of the Thompson hotel; The Woodlot, a restaurant and bakery in Toronto’s Little Italy.

Toronto

0.5 MI �0.8 KM�0

N

DUNDAS ST. W.

QUEEN ST. W.

KING ST. W.

F. G. GARDINER EXPWY.

EAST CHINATOWN

QUEEN WEST

OSSINGTON

LITTLE ITALYCOLLEGE ST.

QUEEN’S PARK

UN

IVE

RS

ITY

AV

E.

ROYAL ONTARIO MUSEUM

BLOOR ST. W.

CHINATOWN

ART GALLERY OF ONTARIOSHARP CENTRE

FOR DESIGN

ENTERTAINMENTDISTRICT

FINANCIALDISTRICT

CN TOWER

TIFF BELL LIGHTBOX

DISTILLERY DISTRICT


STAYDrake Hotel 1150 Queen St. W.; thedrakehotel.ca. $Four Seasons Hotel 60 Yorkville Ave.; fourseasons.com. $$$Gladstone Hotel 1214 Queen St. W.; gladstonehotel.com. $Ritz-Carlton 181 Wellington St. W.; ritzcarlton.com. $$$$ Shangri-La Hotel 188 University Ave.; shangri-la.com; rates not available at press time. Templar Hotel 348 Adelaide St. W.; designhotels.com. $$$Thompson 550 Wellington St. W.; thompsonhotels.com. $$Trump International Hotel & Tower 325 Bay St.; trumphotelcollection.com. $$$$

EATCafé Boulud 60 Yorkville Ave.; danielnyc.com . $$$Feasting Room Nose-to-tail pop-up (open through Nov.) from an alum of London’s St. John restaurant. 580A College St.;

thefeastingroom.com . $$$ Frank’s Kitchen 588 College St.; 416/516-5861. $$$ Goodnight 431 Richmond St. W.; goodnightbar.com. Keriwa Café Seasonal, indigenous cuisine made by a Canadian Siksika tribe descendant . 1690 Queen St. W.; keriwacafe.ca. $$$ Luma Inside the TIFF Bell Lightbox and run by Oliver & Bonacini, the duo behind local hot spots Bannock, Jump, and Canoe. 350 King St. W.; oliverbonacini.com. $$$ Monk Kitchen 348 Adelaide St. W.; 416/479-4080. $$$$Origin Go early for creative cocktails on the patio, and stay for favourites like the Bangkok beef salad with mango. 107-109 King St. E.; origintoronto.com. $$$ Woodlot 293 Palmerston Ave.; woodlotrestaurant.com. $$$

DOArt Gallery of Ontario 317 Dundas St. W.; ago.net.Distillery District 55 Mill St.; distillery district.com.Royal Ontario Museum 100 Bloor St. W.; rom.on.ca.Sharp Centre for Design At Ontario College of Art & Design, 100 McCaul St.; ocadu.ca.TIFF Bell Lightbox 350 King St. W.; tiff .net.

SHOP Drake General Store Queen 1144 Queen St. W. ; drakegeneralstore.ca. Klaxon Howl 706 Queen St. W.; klaxonhowl.com.Nomad 819 Queen St. W.; nomadshop.net.Sydney’s 682 Queen St. W.; shopsydneys.com.



WorldMags.net



00 O C TO B E R 2012 TR AV E L+LE ISU RE TR AV E L+LE ISU RE O C TO B E R 2012 00

Poolside at Oxygen Jungle Villas, near Uvita de Osa, in Costa Rica.

On a journey down the Pacifi c coast and into the rain forest, RICHARD ALLEMAN uncovers

eight amazing jungle lodges and oceanfront hotels. PHOTOGR APHED BY BETH GARR ABR ANT

COSTA RICA �DIVE IN�

10 COSTA RICA 12.indd 2-3 21/09/12 3:24 PM


WorldMags.net




Poolside at Oxygen Jungle Villas, near Uvita de Osa, in Costa Rica.

On a journey down the Pacifi c coast and into the rain forest, RICHARD ALLEMAN uncovers

eight amazing jungle lodges and oceanfront hotels. PHOTOGR APHED BY BETH GARR ABR ANT

COSTA RICA �DIVE IN�



WorldMags.net




D eserted sand. Wildlife refuges. A laid-back pura vida lifestyle. What’s not to love about Costa Rica? Sure, it’s been on our radar for a while, but with a host of small, stylish hotels

hidden in the jungle and along the shore, the tiny Central American country is now more appealing than ever. Here, the eight places that top our list. OXYGEN JUNGLE VILLAS Uvita de OsaAs you drive up the steep gravel road that leads to this remote retreat above the southern town of Uvita, you may start to lose faith. Did you miss a turn? Could it be up this high? A few minutes later, you spot the pool, edged with Moroccan lanterns and seeming to spill out over green hills to the Pacific. Lounge music plays at just the right volume; guests lie under Balinese umbrellas reading their Kindles and listening to their

iPods. Marco, the young concierge, escorts you to your bungalow, one of just 12 on the property. The rooms are all glass, except for the teak peaked roofs, and furnished with big poster beds, stacks of baskets that serve as dressers, and large white sofas on the front porches. There’s something disconcerting about staying in such futuristic digs in the middle of the jungle, but you’ll adjust quickly. Soon you’re off trekking to Oxygen’s waterfall, visiting nearby beaches, or venturing a 40-minute drive south to Corcovado National Park, one of the most biodiverse landscapes in the world. oxygenjunglevillas.com. $

RANCHO PACIFICO Uvita de OsaSeeking a mountain to call your own? Set on a 250-acre preserve, this hilltop eco-lodge draws an A-list clientele (Anderson Cooper, Sheryl Crow, and Al Gore, to name a few) who come for the privacy: check in to one of two new “Treehauses,” which are set back from the main building. Rooms have neo-Modernist

and shoji screens. Each of Florblanca’s 11 villas is accented with organic fabrics and native hardwoods, and all have terraces outfitted with hammocks. (Book the Surf House, steps from the ocean.) After an evening yoga class on the beach, kick back with a tamarind mojito—or two—from the open-air Nectar bar. florblanca.com. $$$

LATITUDE 10 Playa Santa TeresaIf Florblanca feels like a luxe Asian retreat, Latitude 10 , its neighbour to the north, is somewhat of a no-frills—but fashionable—safari hideaway in Africa. Don’t expect Frette linens or flat-screen TV’s: the five simple, open-sided wooden casitas were built with shades instead of windows, so guests can “sleep and reside completely in harmony with nature,” as the sign reads in the lobby. Come dinnertime, you’ll be rewarded for your fortitude, thanks to affable French chef Sebastian Regier, who creates daily seafood-centric dishes—guests can pre-order before noon for the freshest catch from local

furnishings and sweeping vistas of the ocean—almost unheard of for a hotel in the rain forest. Adventurers can go wildlife spotting or visit indigenous villages, while those in need of downtime can opt for a hot-stone massage or relax at one of the property’s five pools. There is little reason to leave the lodge, except perhaps to spend the day at Ballena Beach Club, where hotel guests have free access to the umbrella-covered chaises and pristine white sand of Playa La Colonia. ranchopacifico.com. $$

FLORBLANCA Playa Santa TeresaIt’s not often that you come across an Asian-inspired resort in Costa Rica—especially one located on Playa Santa Teresa’s best surf break. Here, it’s more about blissing out than riding the waves. There are only a few dozen guests at any time, and everything is designed to soothe—from the boulder-studded pool, where you’ll feel like you’re swimming in an aqueous Zen garden, to the bamboo spa bungalow, with its ponds

Playa Uvita, on Costa Rica’s southern Pacifi c coast. Clockwise from

below: Playing chess in the library at Rancho Pacifi co, in Uvita de Osa; a

breakfast bite at El Silencio Lodge & Spa, in Bajos del Toro; the Treehaus

Hideaway at Rancho Pacifi co.

T+L Tip

At Oxygen Jungle Villas,

ask the concierge to organize a

zipline excursion with Osa Canopy Tours (osacanopy

tours.com).

T+L Tip

Arrange for a seafood dinner for two—or 10—

beside the infinity pool at Rancho

Pacifico. PIN

K J

EA

NS

: F

OR

EN

ZA

. IL

LU

ST

RA

TIO

NS

BY

ME

GH

AN

N S

TE

PH

EN

SO

N

T+L Tip

Don’t miss the tide pools

surrounded by limestone formations,

just steps from Florblanca.

T+L Tip

Unwind with a sunset holistic

massage by Sebastian

Campanile or Dolores Aviani,

two of the top practitioners in

the area, at Latitude 10⁰.

T+L Tip

Sign up for Nayara Hotel’s guided fi ve-mile

hike through Tenorio Volcano

National Park that ends at the robin’s-egg-blue waters of

Río Celeste. NE

ON

BA

G:

EC

HO

DE

SIG

N.

ILL

US

TR

AT

ION

S B

Y M

EG

HA

NN

ST

EP

HE

NS

ON

A pool at Rancho Pacifi co.



WorldMags.net




D eserted sand. Wildlife refuges. A laid-back pura vida lifestyle. What’s not to love about Costa Rica? Sure, it’s been on our radar for a while, but with a host of small, stylish hotels

hidden in the jungle and along the shore, the tiny Central American country is now more appealing than ever. Here, the eight places that top our list. OXYGEN JUNGLE VILLAS Uvita de OsaAs you drive up the steep gravel road that leads to this remote retreat above the southern town of Uvita, you may start to lose faith. Did you miss a turn? Could it be up this high? A few minutes later, you spot the pool, edged with Moroccan lanterns and seeming to spill out over green hills to the Pacific. Lounge music plays at just the right volume; guests lie under Balinese umbrellas reading their Kindles and listening to their

iPods. Marco, the young concierge, escorts you to your bungalow, one of just 12 on the property. The rooms are all glass, except for the teak peaked roofs, and furnished with big poster beds, stacks of baskets that serve as dressers, and large white sofas on the front porches. There’s something disconcerting about staying in such futuristic digs in the middle of the jungle, but you’ll adjust quickly. Soon you’re off trekking to Oxygen’s waterfall, visiting nearby beaches, or venturing a 40-minute drive south to Corcovado National Park, one of the most biodiverse landscapes in the world. oxygenjunglevillas.com. $

RANCHO PACIFICO Uvita de OsaSeeking a mountain to call your own? Set on a 250-acre preserve, this hilltop eco-lodge draws an A-list clientele (Anderson Cooper, Sheryl Crow, and Al Gore, to name a few) who come for the privacy: check in to one of two new “Treehauses,” which are set back from the main building. Rooms have neo-Modernist

and shoji screens. Each of Florblanca’s 11 villas is accented with organic fabrics and native hardwoods, and all have terraces outfitted with hammocks. (Book the Surf House, steps from the ocean.) After an evening yoga class on the beach, kick back with a tamarind mojito—or two—from the open-air Nectar bar. florblanca.com. $$$

LATITUDE 10 Playa Santa TeresaIf Florblanca feels like a luxe Asian retreat, Latitude 10 , its neighbour to the north, is somewhat of a no-frills—but fashionable—safari hideaway in Africa. Don’t expect Frette linens or flat-screen TV’s: the five simple, open-sided wooden casitas were built with shades instead of windows, so guests can “sleep and reside completely in harmony with nature,” as the sign reads in the lobby. Come dinnertime, you’ll be rewarded for your fortitude, thanks to affable French chef Sebastian Regier, who creates daily seafood-centric dishes—guests can pre-order before noon for the freshest catch from local

furnishings and sweeping vistas of the ocean—almost unheard of for a hotel in the rain forest. Adventurers can go wildlife spotting or visit indigenous villages, while those in need of downtime can opt for a hot-stone massage or relax at one of the property’s five pools. There is little reason to leave the lodge, except perhaps to spend the day at Ballena Beach Club, where hotel guests have free access to the umbrella-covered chaises and pristine white sand of Playa La Colonia. ranchopacifico.com. $$

FLORBLANCA Playa Santa TeresaIt’s not often that you come across an Asian-inspired resort in Costa Rica—especially one located on Playa Santa Teresa’s best surf break. Here, it’s more about blissing out than riding the waves. There are only a few dozen guests at any time, and everything is designed to soothe—from the boulder-studded pool, where you’ll feel like you’re swimming in an aqueous Zen garden, to the bamboo spa bungalow, with its ponds

Playa Uvita, on Costa Rica’s southern Pacifi c coast. Clockwise from

below: Playing chess in the library at Rancho Pacifi co, in Uvita de Osa; a

breakfast bite at El Silencio Lodge & Spa, in Bajos del Toro; the Treehaus

Hideaway at Rancho Pacifi co.

T+L Tip

At Oxygen Jungle Villas,

ask the concierge to organize a

zipline excursion with Osa Canopy Tours (osacanopy

tours.com).

T+L Tip

Arrange for a seafood dinner for two—or 10—

beside the infinity pool at Rancho

Pacifico. PIN

K J

EA

NS

: F

OR

EN

ZA

. IL

LU

ST

RA

TIO

NS

BY

ME

GH

AN

N S

TE

PH

EN

SO

N

T+L Tip

Don’t miss the tide pools

surrounded by limestone formations,

just steps from Florblanca.

T+L Tip

Unwind with a sunset holistic

massage by Sebastian

Campanile or Dolores Aviani,

two of the top practitioners in

the area, at Latitude 10⁰.

T+L Tip

Sign up for Nayara Hotel’s guided fi ve-mile

hike through Tenorio Volcano

National Park that ends at the robin’s-egg-blue waters of

Río Celeste. NE

ON

BA

G:

EC

HO

DE

SIG

N.

ILL

US

TR

AT

ION

S B

Y M

EG

HA

NN

ST

EP

HE

NS

ON

A pool at Rancho Pacifi co.



WorldMags.net




and Dukszta are on hand to give you the scoop on where to eat and what to do, from a candlelit dinner at nearby La Vela Latina to a picnic at the remote Playa Carrillo, a half-hour walk away. thelogansamara.com. $

CALA LUNA Playa Langosta, TamarindoA decade ago, the town of Tamarindo was a quiet surfers’ haven on Costa Rica’s northern Pacific coast. These days it is, for better or worse, one of the country’s most well-trodden beach resorts, filled with low-rise hotels and lively waterside restaurants. For those who’d prefer to dip in and out of the scene, there’s Cala Luna, three kilometres south on the almost empty Playa Langosta. Built in 1994 by a Belgian couple, the property closed for two years and just reopened after a top-to-bottom makeover. Rooms and villas are as sensitive to the environment as they are easy on the eyes, using only natural and recycled materials and done up in cool beiges, locally made furniture, and polished concrete walls and mosaic-tiled tubs in the large bathrooms. Next to the shaded pool, a waitstaff dressed in plaid shirts and cowboy hats serve ceviche at the buzzy restaurant. Besides the usual array of watersports (Jet Skiing; snorkelling), there’s horseback riding at the owners’ nearby finca and whale watching aboard the hotel’s 26-foot powerboat. Just get back in time for sunset at the property’s little beach. calaluna.com. $$ �

depths of a tropical cloud forest. Indeed, the place feels so far off the map that it’s hard to believe the lodge is only a 90-minute drive north of the capital, San José. From a narrow road, you’ll enter what resembles a remote Japanese mountain village: 16 wooden bungalows built on pillars rise above gargantuan leaves and exotic ferns. The rustic-chic interiors are the work of renowned Costa Rican architect Ronald Zurcher, who incorporated lacquered wood floors, bamboo ceilings, and, best of all, decks overlooking the cloud-ringed mountains. At night, head to the glass-walled restaurant to feast on such Central American specialties as spicy chicken chalupas, with ingredients sourced from El Silencio’s organic farm. silenciolodge.com. $$

THE LOGAN SámaraOn a palm-studded crescent of white sand, Playa Sámara is a funky settlement of some 1,500 expats and Costa Ricans, a 90-minute drive south of Tamarindo. This is laid-back Costa Rica at its best: barefoot cafés, beachside surf schools, and a coral reef with unbeatable snorkelling. The area’s most buzzed-about newcomer is the Logan, a stylishly spare four-suite property opened by Canadians Quinn Vorster and his wife, Monika Dukszta. Custom-made dark-wood furniture and cement floors make up the light-filled interiors, and the saltwater pool is the perfect place for whiling the day away. Vorster

fishermen—served in the breezy dining room or, if you prefer, at a secluded beachside spot. latitude10.com. $$

NAYARA HOTEL, SPA & GARDENS Arenal Volcano (La Fortuna)In a country known for its natural wonders, the 5,643-foot Arenal Volcano is arguably the star attraction. Though the volcano is now dormant, travellers still flock to this lush region for its wildlife spotting, white-water rafting, and kayaking on Lake Arenal. Among the dozens of hotels in the area, we love the newly revamped Nayara Hotel, Spa & Gardens (the No. 1 resort in Central and South America in T+L U.S.’ World’s Best Awards). Dynamic owner Leo Ghitis has outfitted the 50 villas with spacious decks (some have hot tubs), plantation furniture, and, alas, jarring avocado-coloured walls. But the jaw-dropping views of the volcano more than make up for the painting faux pas. And the just-opened wine bar serves up some of Latin America’s best vintages by the glass. arenalnayara.com. $$

EL SILENCIO LODGE & SPA Bajos del Toro Tangaras, quetzals, smiling sloths—you’ll find them all on this 500-acre hideaway in the


T+L Guide

Costa Rica

N32 MI �52 KM�0

PACIFICOCEAN

LAKE ARENAL

PLAYASANTA

TERESA

PLAYACARRILLO

PLAYASÁMARA

PLAYATAMARINDO

PLAYALANGOSTA

SAN JOSÉ

LA FORTUNA

ARENAL VOLCANONATIONAL PARK

NUEVO ARENAL

LIBERIA

TENORIO VOLCANO NATIONAL PARK

UVITA DE OSA

CORCOVADONATIONAL PARK

NICARAGUA

PANAMA

�

�

BAJOS DEL TORO

Getting There and Around American Airlines, United, and Continental off er fl ights to Costa Rica’s San José International (SJO) airport. Once there, consider renting a car with four-wheel drive. Or take a puddle jumper with Nature Air (natureair.com) or Sansa (sansa.com) to your fi nal destination. Visas are mandatory and can be obtained from the Embassy of Costa Rica (C-25, 3rd Floor, Anand Niketan, Delhi; 91-11/4108-0810) and cost Rs 1,675. Valid U.S. visa holders do not require separate visas.

From le� : Inside a bedroom at Oxygen Jungle Villas; a footbridge near El Silencio Lodge.

T+L Tip

Spend the afternoon at the

Catarata del Toro, a 300-foot

waterfall that cascades into the

crater of an extinct volcano near El Silencio

Lodge & Spa.

T+L Tip

For a low-key lunch near

the Logan, swing by Pablito’s, on the

edge of town. Try a chicken, beef,

or seafood stew with an ice-cold

Imperial beer.

ILL

US

TR

AT

ION

S B

Y M

EG

HA

NN

ST

EP

HE

NS

ON

ILL

US

TR

AT

ION

BY

ME

GH

AN

N S

TE

PH

EN

SO

N

T+L Tip

Take a surfing lesson at Witch’s

Rock Surf Camp on Playa Tama rindo, a

stone’s throw away from Cala Luna (witchsrocksurf

camp.com).

The terrace of a two-bedroom villa at Rancho Pacifi co.



WorldMags.net




and Dukszta are on hand to give you the scoop on where to eat and what to do, from a candlelit dinner at nearby La Vela Latina to a picnic at the remote Playa Carrillo, a half-hour walk away. thelogansamara.com. $

CALA LUNA Playa Langosta, TamarindoA decade ago, the town of Tamarindo was a quiet surfers’ haven on Costa Rica’s northern Pacific coast. These days it is, for better or worse, one of the country’s most well-trodden beach resorts, filled with low-rise hotels and lively waterside restaurants. For those who’d prefer to dip in and out of the scene, there’s Cala Luna, three kilometres south on the almost empty Playa Langosta. Built in 1994 by a Belgian couple, the property closed for two years and just reopened after a top-to-bottom makeover. Rooms and villas are as sensitive to the environment as they are easy on the eyes, using only natural and recycled materials and done up in cool beiges, locally made furniture, and polished concrete walls and mosaic-tiled tubs in the large bathrooms. Next to the shaded pool, a waitstaff dressed in plaid shirts and cowboy hats serve ceviche at the buzzy restaurant. Besides the usual array of watersports (Jet Skiing; snorkelling), there’s horseback riding at the owners’ nearby finca and whale watching aboard the hotel’s 26-foot powerboat. Just get back in time for sunset at the property’s little beach. calaluna.com. $$ �

depths of a tropical cloud forest. Indeed, the place feels so far off the map that it’s hard to believe the lodge is only a 90-minute drive north of the capital, San José. From a narrow road, you’ll enter what resembles a remote Japanese mountain village: 16 wooden bungalows built on pillars rise above gargantuan leaves and exotic ferns. The rustic-chic interiors are the work of renowned Costa Rican architect Ronald Zurcher, who incorporated lacquered wood floors, bamboo ceilings, and, best of all, decks overlooking the cloud-ringed mountains. At night, head to the glass-walled restaurant to feast on such Central American specialties as spicy chicken chalupas, with ingredients sourced from El Silencio’s organic farm. silenciolodge.com. $$

THE LOGAN SámaraOn a palm-studded crescent of white sand, Playa Sámara is a funky settlement of some 1,500 expats and Costa Ricans, a 90-minute drive south of Tamarindo. This is laid-back Costa Rica at its best: barefoot cafés, beachside surf schools, and a coral reef with unbeatable snorkelling. The area’s most buzzed-about newcomer is the Logan, a stylishly spare four-suite property opened by Canadians Quinn Vorster and his wife, Monika Dukszta. Custom-made dark-wood furniture and cement floors make up the light-filled interiors, and the saltwater pool is the perfect place for whiling the day away. Vorster

fishermen—served in the breezy dining room or, if you prefer, at a secluded beachside spot. latitude10.com. $$

NAYARA HOTEL, SPA & GARDENS Arenal Volcano (La Fortuna)In a country known for its natural wonders, the 5,643-foot Arenal Volcano is arguably the star attraction. Though the volcano is now dormant, travellers still flock to this lush region for its wildlife spotting, white-water rafting, and kayaking on Lake Arenal. Among the dozens of hotels in the area, we love the newly revamped Nayara Hotel, Spa & Gardens (the No. 1 resort in Central and South America in T+L U.S.’ World’s Best Awards). Dynamic owner Leo Ghitis has outfitted the 50 villas with spacious decks (some have hot tubs), plantation furniture, and, alas, jarring avocado-coloured walls. But the jaw-dropping views of the volcano more than make up for the painting faux pas. And the just-opened wine bar serves up some of Latin America’s best vintages by the glass. arenalnayara.com. $$

EL SILENCIO LODGE & SPA Bajos del Toro Tangaras, quetzals, smiling sloths—you’ll find them all on this 500-acre hideaway in the


T+L Guide

Costa Rica

N32 MI �52 KM�0

PACIFICOCEAN

LAKE ARENAL

PLAYASANTA

TERESA

PLAYACARRILLO

PLAYASÁMARA

PLAYATAMARINDO

PLAYALANGOSTA

SAN JOSÉ

LA FORTUNA

ARENAL VOLCANONATIONAL PARK

NUEVO ARENAL

LIBERIA

TENORIO VOLCANO NATIONAL PARK

UVITA DE OSA

CORCOVADONATIONAL PARK

NICARAGUA

PANAMA

�

�BAJOS DEL TORO

Getting There and Around American Airlines, United, and Continental off er fl ights to Costa Rica’s San José International (SJO) airport. Once there, consider renting a car with four-wheel drive. Or take a puddle jumper with Nature Air (natureair.com) or Sansa (sansa.com) to your fi nal destination. Visas are mandatory and can be obtained from the Embassy of Costa Rica (C-25, 3rd Floor, Anand Niketan, Delhi; 91-11/4108-0810) and cost Rs 1,675. Valid U.S. visa holders do not require separate visas.

From le� : Inside a bedroom at Oxygen Jungle Villas; a footbridge near El Silencio Lodge.

T+L Tip

Spend the afternoon at the

Catarata del Toro, a 300-foot

waterfall that cascades into the

crater of an extinct volcano near El Silencio

Lodge & Spa.

T+L Tip

For a low-key lunch near

the Logan, swing by Pablito’s, on the

edge of town. Try a chicken, beef,

or seafood stew with an ice-cold

Imperial beer.

ILL

US

TR

AT

ION

S B

Y M

EG

HA

NN

ST

EP

HE

NS

ON

ILL

US

TR

AT

ION

BY

ME

GH

AN

N S

TE

PH

EN

SO

N

T+L Tip

Take a surfing lesson at Witch’s

Rock Surf Camp on Playa Tama rindo, a

stone’s throw away from Cala Luna (witchsrocksurf

camp.com).

The terrace of a two-bedroom villa at Rancho Pacifi co.



WorldMags.net




NEWMAST E RS Photographed by Martha Camarillo





10 NEW MASTERS 12.indd 2-3 21/09/12 3:26 PM


WorldMags.net




NEWMAST E RS Photographed by Martha Camarillo







WorldMags.net




nless you are a diamond dealer on business fl ying from New York, you are likely to arrive in Antwerp, as I did, by rail. Likely too you will be travelling via a larger city, because Antwerp—as opposed to Paris or Amsterdam or London, from which it’s an easy train hop—is considered a second-string destination on the European hit list. Antwerp Central is step one in setting you straight.

From the high-speed-train tracks, escalators lifted me past a bold new gridded superstructure by architect Jacques Voncke into the glorious cathedral of the original turn-of-the-20th-century station. The contrast was revelatory. Here in a palatial nutshell was the palette and soft light, the practicality and brio, the deep tradition and smart modernity that I would see again and again over the next few days as I made my own accelerated loop through the trinity of cities—Antwerp, Ghent, and Bruges —that anchor the northern region of Belgium known as Flanders.

On trips to Paris, I know what I’ll fi nd: elegance, beauty, a certain feminine delicacy. Belgium, on the other hand, is a mongrel stimulant. I had sampled its wonderful oddness in Brussels four years ago , my fi rst dig into Belgian design and decoration. But Brussels, the seat of the European Union, is a peculiar hybrid of international bland and haute guildhall, its avant-garde stylishness tucked into corners. Could it be that I would discover a purer form of Belgian interior style in an area half the size of Maryland—the golden triangle of Flanders?

What I was seeing out the taxi window was not promising. Bland post-war buildings, in-fi ll for wide swathes of Antwerp that had been levelled by bombs during World War II, supplanted the spectacle of the train station. My surly driver did not help, screaming down narrow streets that were relentless tunnels of grey. I caught sight of the sign for Hotel Julien up ahead, and a dialogue of doubt began to spin. The hotel had looked so stylish on its website; could this really be the street? How hard would it be to rebook?

But the hotel itself was all-redeeming. Only good things could lie behind double doors of such chic taupe and perfect

From top: Antwerp Central Station; the fi replace at Antwerp’s Restaurant Roji. Opposite: The breakfast room at

Antwerp’s Hotel Julien.

U



WorldMags.net




nless you are a diamond dealer on business fl ying from New York, you are likely to arrive in Antwerp, as I did, by rail. Likely too you will be travelling via a larger city, because Antwerp—as opposed to Paris or Amsterdam or London, from which it’s an easy train hop—is considered a second-string destination on the European hit list. Antwerp Central is step one in setting you straight.

From the high-speed-train tracks, escalators lifted me past a bold new gridded superstructure by architect Jacques Voncke into the glorious cathedral of the original turn-of-the-20th-century station. The contrast was revelatory. Here in a palatial nutshell was the palette and soft light, the practicality and brio, the deep tradition and smart modernity that I would see again and again over the next few days as I made my own accelerated loop through the trinity of cities—Antwerp, Ghent, and Bruges —that anchor the northern region of Belgium known as Flanders.

On trips to Paris, I know what I’ll fi nd: elegance, beauty, a certain feminine delicacy. Belgium, on the other hand, is a mongrel stimulant. I had sampled its wonderful oddness in Brussels four years ago , my fi rst dig into Belgian design and decoration. But Brussels, the seat of the European Union, is a peculiar hybrid of international bland and haute guildhall, its avant-garde stylishness tucked into corners. Could it be that I would discover a purer form of Belgian interior style in an area half the size of Maryland—the golden triangle of Flanders?

What I was seeing out the taxi window was not promising. Bland post-war buildings, in-fi ll for wide swathes of Antwerp that had been levelled by bombs during World War II, supplanted the spectacle of the train station. My surly driver did not help, screaming down narrow streets that were relentless tunnels of grey. I caught sight of the sign for Hotel Julien up ahead, and a dialogue of doubt began to spin. The hotel had looked so stylish on its website; could this really be the street? How hard would it be to rebook?

But the hotel itself was all-redeeming. Only good things could lie behind double doors of such chic taupe and perfect

From top: Antwerp Central Station; the fi replace at Antwerp’s Restaurant Roji. Opposite: The breakfast room at

Antwerp’s Hotel Julien.

U



WorldMags.net



gloss. In the white foyer, an antique settee upholstered in natural linen and a simple domed light fi xture were the only adornments. Modern sectionals in pale grey wool cosied up to the twin black-marble fi replaces of the parlour. A sleek bar at the back bridged the two 19th-century buildings. Even on this dim afternoon, natural light penetrated deep into the interior.

The Flemish have a gift for taking a space not much larger than an air shaft and transforming it into a sanctuary. At Hotel Julien, the public rooms had no views to speak of, but sitting in them was a pleasure thanks to walls of gridded glass opening onto small courtyards . At breakfast one morning, it was not the passing trolleys outside that drew my attention but the scene opposite: a tiny courtyard, white-walled and gravel-fl oored, with the elegant skeleton of a single bare tree emerging from asymmetrical waves of evergreen hedges. Such a painterly hand with plant material could only be credited to the infl uence of landscape designer (and hometown boy) Jacques Wirtz.

What Wirtz is to landscape design—a game changer with far-reaching infl uence—another Flanders native son, Axel Vervoordt, is to interiors, only tenfold. For 30 years, Vervoordt has defi ned Belgian style. Fourteen years ago, he bought a former distillery a short drive from Antwerp’s centre, which he turned into showrooms, offi ces, and exhibition spaces and renamed Kanaal. The large, spare rooms of the brick warehouses and concrete silos, where contemporary art and unusual antiques mix with farm tables and oversize slipcovered sofas, encapsulate his vision in its most elevated form .

Vervoordt’s work can also be experienced right in the centre of town at a trio of places tucked into and under Vlaeykensgang, a narrow, easily missed alley just off the pedestrian Oude Koornmarkt. At his namesake gallery, the cool black stone fl oors and whitewashed walls form a monastic setting for works by the likes of Anish Kapoor. Serene in a softer way was Sir Anthony Van Dijck, a restaurant designed by Vervoordt in the 1980’s. That the look—roughly plastered walls; worn stone fl oors; scrubbed pine tables — still seemed current was testament to the designer’s trust in simplicity and natural materials.

Beautiful as Van Dijck was, I opted instead to dine at the French-Japanese Restaurant Roji around the corner. Secreted in a vaulted stone cellar, Roji represents Vervoordt’s evolution to a more seamless environment aligned with the principles of wabi-sabi. Roji is the Japanese term for a path leading to a tea garden, a symbolic moving away from the outside world into a contemplative place. On this damp and cold night, the restaurant was a transformative ticket to warmth on every level. Stone, ceramics, soft-shell crab, and sake were united in a family of subtle hues and distinct textures. The fi re in the hearth felt almost medieval. Well after leaving , the fragrance of woodsmoke lingered on my clothes and hair.

Even though Vervoordt has moved ahead , not all of his countrymen are with him. Belgian style as represented by his earlier Van Dijck restaurant suits the Flemish, whose interiors refl ect a fundamentally conservative and private nature—stylish but never fl amboyant. It’s a sensibility

Owners Jan Rosseel and Marc Vergauwe in the salon at Chambres

d’Hôtes Hôtel Verhaegen, Ghent.




WorldMags.net



gloss. In the white foyer, an antique settee upholstered in natural linen and a simple domed light fi xture were the only adornments. Modern sectionals in pale grey wool cosied up to the twin black-marble fi replaces of the parlour. A sleek bar at the back bridged the two 19th-century buildings. Even on this dim afternoon, natural light penetrated deep into the interior.

The Flemish have a gift for taking a space not much larger than an air shaft and transforming it into a sanctuary. At Hotel Julien, the public rooms had no views to speak of, but sitting in them was a pleasure thanks to walls of gridded glass opening onto small courtyards . At breakfast one morning, it was not the passing trolleys outside that drew my attention but the scene opposite: a tiny courtyard, white-walled and gravel-fl oored, with the elegant skeleton of a single bare tree emerging from asymmetrical waves of evergreen hedges. Such a painterly hand with plant material could only be credited to the infl uence of landscape designer (and hometown boy) Jacques Wirtz.

What Wirtz is to landscape design—a game changer with far-reaching infl uence—another Flanders native son, Axel Vervoordt, is to interiors, only tenfold. For 30 years, Vervoordt has defi ned Belgian style. Fourteen years ago, he bought a former distillery a short drive from Antwerp’s centre, which he turned into showrooms, offi ces, and exhibition spaces and renamed Kanaal. The large, spare rooms of the brick warehouses and concrete silos, where contemporary art and unusual antiques mix with farm tables and oversize slipcovered sofas, encapsulate his vision in its most elevated form .

Vervoordt’s work can also be experienced right in the centre of town at a trio of places tucked into and under Vlaeykensgang, a narrow, easily missed alley just off the pedestrian Oude Koornmarkt. At his namesake gallery, the cool black stone fl oors and whitewashed walls form a monastic setting for works by the likes of Anish Kapoor. Serene in a softer way was Sir Anthony Van Dijck, a restaurant designed by Vervoordt in the 1980’s. That the look—roughly plastered walls; worn stone fl oors; scrubbed pine tables — still seemed current was testament to the designer’s trust in simplicity and natural materials.

Beautiful as Van Dijck was, I opted instead to dine at the French-Japanese Restaurant Roji around the corner. Secreted in a vaulted stone cellar, Roji represents Vervoordt’s evolution to a more seamless environment aligned with the principles of wabi-sabi. Roji is the Japanese term for a path leading to a tea garden, a symbolic moving away from the outside world into a contemplative place. On this damp and cold night, the restaurant was a transformative ticket to warmth on every level. Stone, ceramics, soft-shell crab, and sake were united in a family of subtle hues and distinct textures. The fi re in the hearth felt almost medieval. Well after leaving , the fragrance of woodsmoke lingered on my clothes and hair.

Even though Vervoordt has moved ahead , not all of his countrymen are with him. Belgian style as represented by his earlier Van Dijck restaurant suits the Flemish, whose interiors refl ect a fundamentally conservative and private nature—stylish but never fl amboyant. It’s a sensibility

Owners Jan Rosseel and Marc Vergauwe in the salon at Chambres

d’Hôtes Hôtel Verhaegen, Ghent.




WorldMags.net




From top: Peter and Cristina Van Steenbergen-di Resta, owners

of Antwerp’s International 14; the façade of mustard shop Yves

Tierenteyn-Verlent, in Ghent.

embodied by Flamant, the Flemish equivalent of Restoration Hardware. The Flamant brothers, sons of an antiques dealer, opened their fi rst shop in Antwerp 30 years ago, bringing well-made, well-priced, modern interpretations of antique pieces to the bourgeoisie. I bought candles in a soft taupe that recalled the shades of beige and grey dominating contemporary Flemish interiors. An echo of the pallid light captured by painters, or an extension of the linen Flanders was famous for producing, the palette is calm and elegant—though to some it’s simply dull.

“I’m so tired of the Flanders style. I feel like I’m looking at rooms through panty hose.” This comment was made to Cristina Van Steenbergen-di Resta by a friend, but it could have been the decorator’s own lament. Her shop, International 14, was a bright star among the emporiums I explored along Kloosterstraat, the spine of Antwerp’s antiques district. A rare straw hat, circa 1820, was treated as sculpture; brilliantly coloured taxidermy parrots were sprinkled amid handsome Swedish cupboards and a sofa of di Resta’s own design . “In 16th- and 17th-century Flanders, it was all the rage to collect odd items from around the world and display them in ornate verzamel cabinets,” Van Steenbergen-di Resta said. “I think of the room as a cabinet, and the decoration and people who live there as the collections that bring the story to life.”

Arrayed on a wood table were contemporary samples of traditional Flemish leather wall coverings , much like what I had just seen at the nearby Plantin-Moretus Museum. Although the holdings of what was once the most signifi cant printer and publisher in 16th-century Europe were exceptional , it was the museum’s deeply atmospheric rooms, side-lit through stacked leaded glass windows shielded by dark shutters, that I had come to see. I wanted to know if it was possible to occupy a Jan van Eyck painting in real life . The answer is yes; caught in the light by a window, the lone museum guard seemed poised for a session with the master.

Knowing what to enhance and when to leave well enough alone is a hallmark of Flemish style, as I discovered anew at the four-room Chambres d’Hôtes

Hôtel Verhaegen, a 50-minute train ride away in Ghent. To their listed 18th-century hôtel particulier, Jan Rosseel and Marc Vergauwe (who met in design school in Ghent) brought their own high intelligence, treating the architectural shell as the treasure it is while adding wit, comfort, and appropriately invisible technology. Shapely modern lamps off set boiserie and paintings by 18th-century Flemish artist Pierre Norbert van Reysschoot . Striped carpets on the stairs and in the bedrooms complement the original herringbone-wood and black-and-white marble fl oors. If it is possible to be both taut and lush in decoration, then Rosseell and Vergauwe are masters. Rare are the places where one can experience the art in l’art de vivre. Rarer still are the times that I arrive at a hotel and want to abandon the rest of my itinerary. So I stepped away from Hôtel Verhaegen only long enough to gather excitement about my return.

Once the most important centre for wool and cloth in medieval Europe, Ghent wears its historical signifi cance

lightly. A few blocks from the guesthouse, I came across a contemporary design store, Surplus Interieur; Ghent’s best art and architecture bookshop, Copyright; and Dille & Kamille, a Belgian-Dutch chain of orderly, open-shelf, tin-bin bazaars of kitchen and bathwares . At the Design Museum Ghent, I took in Belgian masterpieces such as an 18th-century wooden chandelier by J. F. Allaert and the 1930’s tubular furniture of Gaston Eysselinck. I stood in rapture before the panels of the van Eyck brothers’ Ghent Altarpiece in St. Bavo Cathedral, and in dismay at the ugly (if necessary) climate-controlled glass box that encases it. I stopped in at Yves Tierenteyn-Verlent—not so much for the tangy traditional mustard made fresh several times a week , but for the original 1860 interior. At Pakhuis, tucking in to oven-roasted Bresse chicken beneath industrial trusses felt like picnicking in the machine room of the Eiff el Tower.

Half an hour away by train and less than half the size, Bruges felt more packed than Ghent and far more touristy, the streets leading off the Markt choked with lace and chocolate shops. To meet the need of so many visitors, Bruges has exploded with small guesthouses where you can dial into any period look. I chose to stay at St. Jacob, a 19th-century building transformed into a contemporary B&B with four smart white rooms and a spectacular kitchen . Emmanuel Vanhaecke and his sister, Lyne, second-generation hoteliers, run two charming others that step further back in time:


Ghent; hotel verhaegen.be . $$Hotel Julien 24 Korte Nieuwstraat , Antwerp; hotel-julien.com. $$ Maison Le Dragon 5 Eekhoutstraat, Bruges; maisonledragon.be. $$St. Jacobs B&B 20 Oude Zak, Bruges; stjacobs.be. $

EATPakhuis 4 Schuurkenstraat, Ghent; pakhuis.be. $$$Restaurant Roji 26 Oude Koornmarkt, Antwerp; roji.be. $$$Rock-fort 15 Langstraat, Bruges; rock-fort.be. $$$

Sir Anthony Van Dijck Restaurant 16 Vlaeykensgang, Oude Koornmarkt, Antwerp; siranthonyvan dijck.be. $$$

DOAxel Vervoordt Gallery Vlaeykensgang, 16 Oude Koornmarkt, Antwerp; axelvervoordtgallery .com.Design Museum Gent5 Jan Breydelstraat, Ghent; design museumgent.be.Groeninge Museum 12 Dijver, Bruges; musea brugge.be.Kanaal 15-19 Stokerijstraat, Wijnegem; kanaal.be.Plantin-Moretus Museum 22–23 Vrijdagmarkt, Antwerp; museumplantinmoretus.be.St. Bavo Cathedral Sint-Baafsplein,

Ghent; sintbaafskathedraal .be.

SHOP Copyright 8B Jakobijnenstraat, Ghent; copyright bookshop.be. Dille & Kamille 15 Hoornstraat, Ghent; dille-kamille.be . Flamant 12/14 Lange Gasthuisstraat , Antwerp; fl amant.com.Frederiek van Pamel 3 Eiermarkt, Bruges; frederiek vanpamel.be .International 14 14 Kloosterstraat, Antwerp; international14.com.Surplus Interieur 9 Zwartezustersstraat , Ghent; surplus interieur.be. Yves Tierenteyn-Verlent 3 Groentenmarkt, Ghent; 32-9/225-8336.

Inside Flamant in Antwerp.

Getting ThereJet Airways off ers direct fl ights to Brussels. Schengen visas are mandatory and can be obtained from the Embassy of the Kingdom of Belgium (50-N, Shantipath, Chanakyapuri, Delhi; 91-11/4242-8000; diplomatic.be/newdelhi) and cost Rs 4,140. Antwerp is also an easy high-speed train trip from Amsterdam (1¼ hours), Paris (2 hours), and London (3 hours, connecting through Brussels). Travelling between Antwerp, Ghent, and Bruges takes between half an hour to an hour on local trains.

T+L Guide

NORTH SEA

BELGIUM

FRANCE

NETHERLANDSN

25 MI �40 KM�0

BRUSSELS

ANTWERPBRUGES

GHENT

Flanders

STAYBonifacius Private Guesthouse 4 Groeninge, Bruges; bonifacius.be. $$Chambres d’Hôtes Hôtel Verhaegen 110 Oude Houtlei,

Maison Le Dragon and Bonifacius Private Guesthouse. Stay at the latter and you are practically on the Groeninge Museum’s campus; the high-breasted hearth and leaded-glass bay windows of Bonifacius’s breakfast room, overlooking the canal, are just a courtyard away.

The schizophrenia of Bruges was what held my interest. One moment I could be immersed in the shadows of low-ceilinged rooms and the rich textures of brick walls and cobblestoned courts. The next I would be admiring Frederiek van Pamel’s way with mixing Asian artefacts, blooming branches, leather, and zinc in his interiors and fl oral shop .

At tiny, rocking Rock-fort I nabbed a counter stool and watched the chefs turn out young Anjou pigeon and fried liver with jam. My head was fi lled with images of the trip, so many of them beautiful, unexpected, even contradictory. Sifting and sorting, I came to an understanding rather than a conclusion. What made Flanders such a satisfying place to visit was not the ease of train travel (though that helped) or the accommodations, which were some of the chicest I have ever encountered, but its identity. Flemish style is stealth style, Flanders the land of under-promise and over-delivery. Flanders is only small if you’re not looking. ✚

Heather Smith MacIsaac is a regular T+L contributor who writes frequently about design.



WorldMags.net




From top: Peter and Cristina Van Steenbergen-di Resta, owners

of Antwerp’s International 14; the façade of mustard shop Yves

Tierenteyn-Verlent, in Ghent.

embodied by Flamant, the Flemish equivalent of Restoration Hardware. The Flamant brothers, sons of an antiques dealer, opened their fi rst shop in Antwerp 30 years ago, bringing well-made, well-priced, modern interpretations of antique pieces to the bourgeoisie. I bought candles in a soft taupe that recalled the shades of beige and grey dominating contemporary Flemish interiors. An echo of the pallid light captured by painters, or an extension of the linen Flanders was famous for producing, the palette is calm and elegant—though to some it’s simply dull.

“I’m so tired of the Flanders style. I feel like I’m looking at rooms through panty hose.” This comment was made to Cristina Van Steenbergen-di Resta by a friend, but it could have been the decorator’s own lament. Her shop, International 14, was a bright star among the emporiums I explored along Kloosterstraat, the spine of Antwerp’s antiques district. A rare straw hat, circa 1820, was treated as sculpture; brilliantly coloured taxidermy parrots were sprinkled amid handsome Swedish cupboards and a sofa of di Resta’s own design . “In 16th- and 17th-century Flanders, it was all the rage to collect odd items from around the world and display them in ornate verzamel cabinets,” Van Steenbergen-di Resta said. “I think of the room as a cabinet, and the decoration and people who live there as the collections that bring the story to life.”

Arrayed on a wood table were contemporary samples of traditional Flemish leather wall coverings , much like what I had just seen at the nearby Plantin-Moretus Museum. Although the holdings of what was once the most signifi cant printer and publisher in 16th-century Europe were exceptional , it was the museum’s deeply atmospheric rooms, side-lit through stacked leaded glass windows shielded by dark shutters, that I had come to see. I wanted to know if it was possible to occupy a Jan van Eyck painting in real life . The answer is yes; caught in the light by a window, the lone museum guard seemed poised for a session with the master.

Knowing what to enhance and when to leave well enough alone is a hallmark of Flemish style, as I discovered anew at the four-room Chambres d’Hôtes

Hôtel Verhaegen, a 50-minute train ride away in Ghent. To their listed 18th-century hôtel particulier, Jan Rosseel and Marc Vergauwe (who met in design school in Ghent) brought their own high intelligence, treating the architectural shell as the treasure it is while adding wit, comfort, and appropriately invisible technology. Shapely modern lamps off set boiserie and paintings by 18th-century Flemish artist Pierre Norbert van Reysschoot . Striped carpets on the stairs and in the bedrooms complement the original herringbone-wood and black-and-white marble fl oors. If it is possible to be both taut and lush in decoration, then Rosseell and Vergauwe are masters. Rare are the places where one can experience the art in l’art de vivre. Rarer still are the times that I arrive at a hotel and want to abandon the rest of my itinerary. So I stepped away from Hôtel Verhaegen only long enough to gather excitement about my return.

Once the most important centre for wool and cloth in medieval Europe, Ghent wears its historical signifi cance

lightly. A few blocks from the guesthouse, I came across a contemporary design store, Surplus Interieur; Ghent’s best art and architecture bookshop, Copyright; and Dille & Kamille, a Belgian-Dutch chain of orderly, open-shelf, tin-bin bazaars of kitchen and bathwares . At the Design Museum Ghent, I took in Belgian masterpieces such as an 18th-century wooden chandelier by J. F. Allaert and the 1930’s tubular furniture of Gaston Eysselinck. I stood in rapture before the panels of the van Eyck brothers’ Ghent Altarpiece in St. Bavo Cathedral, and in dismay at the ugly (if necessary) climate-controlled glass box that encases it. I stopped in at Yves Tierenteyn-Verlent—not so much for the tangy traditional mustard made fresh several times a week , but for the original 1860 interior. At Pakhuis, tucking in to oven-roasted Bresse chicken beneath industrial trusses felt like picnicking in the machine room of the Eiff el Tower.

Half an hour away by train and less than half the size, Bruges felt more packed than Ghent and far more touristy, the streets leading off the Markt choked with lace and chocolate shops. To meet the need of so many visitors, Bruges has exploded with small guesthouses where you can dial into any period look. I chose to stay at St. Jacob, a 19th-century building transformed into a contemporary B&B with four smart white rooms and a spectacular kitchen . Emmanuel Vanhaecke and his sister, Lyne, second-generation hoteliers, run two charming others that step further back in time:


Ghent; hotel verhaegen.be . $$Hotel Julien 24 Korte Nieuwstraat , Antwerp; hotel-julien.com. $$ Maison Le Dragon 5 Eekhoutstraat, Bruges; maisonledragon.be. $$St. Jacobs B&B 20 Oude Zak, Bruges; stjacobs.be. $

EATPakhuis 4 Schuurkenstraat, Ghent; pakhuis.be. $$$Restaurant Roji 26 Oude Koornmarkt, Antwerp; roji.be. $$$Rock-fort 15 Langstraat, Bruges; rock-fort.be. $$$

Sir Anthony Van Dijck Restaurant 16 Vlaeykensgang, Oude Koornmarkt, Antwerp; siranthonyvan dijck.be. $$$

DOAxel Vervoordt Gallery Vlaeykensgang, 16 Oude Koornmarkt, Antwerp; axelvervoordtgallery .com.Design Museum Gent5 Jan Breydelstraat, Ghent; design museumgent.be.Groeninge Museum 12 Dijver, Bruges; musea brugge.be.Kanaal 15-19 Stokerijstraat, Wijnegem; kanaal.be.Plantin-Moretus Museum 22–23 Vrijdagmarkt, Antwerp; museumplantinmoretus.be.St. Bavo Cathedral Sint-Baafsplein,

Ghent; sintbaafskathedraal .be.

SHOP Copyright 8B Jakobijnenstraat, Ghent; copyright bookshop.be. Dille & Kamille 15 Hoornstraat, Ghent; dille-kamille.be . Flamant 12/14 Lange Gasthuisstraat , Antwerp; fl amant.com.Frederiek van Pamel 3 Eiermarkt, Bruges; frederiek vanpamel.be .International 14 14 Kloosterstraat, Antwerp; international14.com.Surplus Interieur 9 Zwartezustersstraat , Ghent; surplus interieur.be. Yves Tierenteyn-Verlent 3 Groentenmarkt, Ghent; 32-9/225-8336.

Inside Flamant in Antwerp.

Getting ThereJet Airways off ers direct fl ights to Brussels. Schengen visas are mandatory and can be obtained from the Embassy of the Kingdom of Belgium (50-N, Shantipath, Chanakyapuri, Delhi; 91-11/4242-8000; diplomatic.be/newdelhi) and cost Rs 4,140. Antwerp is also an easy high-speed train trip from Amsterdam (1¼ hours), Paris (2 hours), and London (3 hours, connecting through Brussels). Travelling between Antwerp, Ghent, and Bruges takes between half an hour to an hour on local trains.

T+L Guide

NORTH SEA

BELGIUM

FRANCE

NETHERLANDSN

25 MI �40 KM�0

BRUSSELS

ANTWERPBRUGES

GHENT

Flanders

STAYBonifacius Private Guesthouse 4 Groeninge, Bruges; bonifacius.be. $$Chambres d’Hôtes Hôtel Verhaegen 110 Oude Houtlei,

Maison Le Dragon and Bonifacius Private Guesthouse. Stay at the latter and you are practically on the Groeninge Museum’s campus; the high-breasted hearth and leaded-glass bay windows of Bonifacius’s breakfast room, overlooking the canal, are just a courtyard away.

The schizophrenia of Bruges was what held my interest. One moment I could be immersed in the shadows of low-ceilinged rooms and the rich textures of brick walls and cobblestoned courts. The next I would be admiring Frederiek van Pamel’s way with mixing Asian artefacts, blooming branches, leather, and zinc in his interiors and fl oral shop .

At tiny, rocking Rock-fort I nabbed a counter stool and watched the chefs turn out young Anjou pigeon and fried liver with jam. My head was fi lled with images of the trip, so many of them beautiful, unexpected, even contradictory. Sifting and sorting, I came to an understanding rather than a conclusion. What made Flanders such a satisfying place to visit was not the ease of train travel (though that helped) or the accommodations, which were some of the chicest I have ever encountered, but its identity. Flemish style is stealth style, Flanders the land of under-promise and over-delivery. Flanders is only small if you’re not looking. ✚

Heather Smith MacIsaac is a regular T+L contributor who writes frequently about design.



WorldMags.net



PASSPORT TO THE WORLD

With infl uences from Australia to Iran and most stops in between, today’s Kuala Lumpur has never been more of an international crossroads. John Krich sets off to fi nd

out what makes it tick. Photographed by Austin Bush

Iranian plates at Naab, in Kuala Lumpur,

Malaysia. Opposite: At Journal by Plan B, in

Publika mall.

10 KUALA LUMPUR-SEA12.indd 2-3 21/09/12 5:12 PM


WorldMags.net



PASSPORT TO THE WORLD

With infl uences from Australia to Iran and most stops in between, today’s Kuala Lumpur has never been more of an international crossroads. John Krich sets off to fi nd

out what makes it tick. Photographed by Austin Bush

Iranian plates at Naab, in Kuala Lumpur,

Malaysia. Opposite: At Journal by Plan B, in

Publika mall.



WorldMags.net



Every night along the sidewalks and shop blocks of Kuala Lumpur, groups of restless youth, mostly ethnic Chinese in body-hugging black, puff away determinedly on Arabic-style shisha water pipes. Is this the latest statement of cultural confusion run amok, to use the Malay word? Or is the capital of a crossroads nation taking its bubbling ethnic hot pot to a hotter, hipper boil?

In far-fl ung neighbourhoods and mixed-use developments, tatty “pulled tea” cafeterias are giving way to leafy pan-Asian cafés. One new mall comes with a sculpture garden, punk bands and toilet stalls covered in protest art murals. At every turn, it’s easy to fi nd Korean barbecues, Iranian kebabs, artisan beer, African espresso, even dancing girls seductively swaying to a remarkable variety of world beats. Along the concrete banks of the “muddy estuary” that gave Kuala Lumpur its name, east now meets not only west but Middle East, South Asia melds with North Africa, North Asia goes tropical—making the old tourist landmarks and itineraries increasingly irrelevant.

Six years back, I gladly left a posting in sleepy old K.L., a town where local action meant ring-tailed monkeys climbing from primary rainforest onto my apartment balcony, and where the only traffi c jams were the result of Friday prayers at the mosque, a golf tournament or a sale at

Asia’s largest Ikea. In the shadow of a few incongruously huge skyscrapers, lost Europeans in fl ip-fl ops staggered amidst mobs of Malay secretaries resplendent in fl oral dresses that guaranteed social modesty and also provided most of the town’s colour. Crisscrossed by brand-new freeways, the last vestiges of colonial England had melded in the heat with one vast Los Angeles-style suburb.

These days, Kuala Lumpur has fi nally taken its place as another of the region’s bona fi de mega-cities—not merely more dense, more intense and overbuilt with a glut of luxury shopping malls, but a truly globalized metropolis. Breaking from its Chinese-Malay-Indian—really Hokkien-Bugis-Tamil—roots, drawing on its links to the Islamic world, energized by a host of new migrant communities and spurred on by its young people, many of whom are educated abroad, the new Kuala Lumpur is a place where worlds don’t just collide but collaborate.

On a night tour of the new K.L., my steadfast guide Alex Yong, a tall and taciturn reporter turned art-space manager, has plenty of unusual options up his sleeve. He barely has to climb one level of stores from MAP, whose ample White Box and Black Box galleries are packed with year-round programmes of alternative dance, comedy, paintings, local fashion design and avant-garde installations, to fi nd the


Clockwise from right: Inside the aptly named Sahara Tent; belly dancing at De Kebab; a

skateboarding competition at KUL Sign 2012, KL’s festival of

urban art; in the heart of Koreatown; a taste of Africa;

the fare at The Magnifi cent Fish and Chips Bar. Opposite:

At Wat Tha Chetawan.

It’s a sight like no other on the planet.



WorldMags.net



Every night along the sidewalks and shop blocks of Kuala Lumpur, groups of restless youth, mostly ethnic Chinese in body-hugging black, puff away determinedly on Arabic-style shisha water pipes. Is this the latest statement of cultural confusion run amok, to use the Malay word? Or is the capital of a crossroads nation taking its bubbling ethnic hot pot to a hotter, hipper boil?

In far-fl ung neighbourhoods and mixed-use developments, tatty “pulled tea” cafeterias are giving way to leafy pan-Asian cafés. One new mall comes with a sculpture garden, punk bands and toilet stalls covered in protest art murals. At every turn, it’s easy to fi nd Korean barbecues, Iranian kebabs, artisan beer, African espresso, even dancing girls seductively swaying to a remarkable variety of world beats. Along the concrete banks of the “muddy estuary” that gave Kuala Lumpur its name, east now meets not only west but Middle East, South Asia melds with North Africa, North Asia goes tropical—making the old tourist landmarks and itineraries increasingly irrelevant.

Six years back, I gladly left a posting in sleepy old K.L., a town where local action meant ring-tailed monkeys climbing from primary rainforest onto my apartment balcony, and where the only traffi c jams were the result of Friday prayers at the mosque, a golf tournament or a sale at

Asia’s largest Ikea. In the shadow of a few incongruously huge skyscrapers, lost Europeans in fl ip-fl ops staggered amidst mobs of Malay secretaries resplendent in fl oral dresses that guaranteed social modesty and also provided most of the town’s colour. Crisscrossed by brand-new freeways, the last vestiges of colonial England had melded in the heat with one vast Los Angeles-style suburb.

These days, Kuala Lumpur has fi nally taken its place as another of the region’s bona fi de mega-cities—not merely more dense, more intense and overbuilt with a glut of luxury shopping malls, but a truly globalized metropolis. Breaking from its Chinese-Malay-Indian—really Hokkien-Bugis-Tamil—roots, drawing on its links to the Islamic world, energized by a host of new migrant communities and spurred on by its young people, many of whom are educated abroad, the new Kuala Lumpur is a place where worlds don’t just collide but collaborate.

On a night tour of the new K.L., my steadfast guide Alex Yong, a tall and taciturn reporter turned art-space manager, has plenty of unusual options up his sleeve. He barely has to climb one level of stores from MAP, whose ample White Box and Black Box galleries are packed with year-round programmes of alternative dance, comedy, paintings, local fashion design and avant-garde installations, to fi nd the


Clockwise from right: Inside the aptly named Sahara Tent; belly dancing at De Kebab; a

skateboarding competition at KUL Sign 2012, KL’s festival of

urban art; in the heart of Koreatown; a taste of Africa;

the fare at The Magnifi cent Fish and Chips Bar. Opposite:

At Wat Tha Chetawan.

It’s a sight like no other on the planet.



WorldMags.net



city’s newest venue for belly-dancing. On an open-air balcony where the lit minarets of the massive city mosque provide an atmospheric backdrop, our one-in-a-thousand night begins with some decidedly non-Arabic if scantily clad entertainers drawn from a nearby dance studio. Never mind. If the sources of sin in this town remain rather tame, that’s part of the charm. But Alex now whizzes his tiny Proton at urgent speeds to a club hidden discreetly within the modern new CAPS Square district.

Within the dark confi nes of the Mehfi l Bollywood Lounge, young beauties from India sit listlessly in a row of on-stage chairs, taking turns in pairs thrusting hips and wildly swinging bangled arms to a superb house singer’s plaintive versions of the latest Indo-pop hits. Women, too, are entirely welcome at this one-of-a-kind, only-in-K.L. venue that seems less sinful than simply sinuous.

But Alex insists he knows another fl oor show that’s far more surreal. Drawn by the politics of dancing, we’re joined on the next outing by Hishamuddin Rais. He’s one of Malaysia’s leading dissidents, underground fi lmmakers and blog commentators, usually happy to hang out amidst the reliable multiculturalism of roti parlours and durian sellers in Brickfi eld’s, K.L.’s oldest and most hard-core Indian quarter. Years of exile have hardly dampened his curiosity—and we’re soon sharing a table in the one massive, chandeliered ballroom that comprises the Pyongyang restaurant—run by and for the nearby North Korean embassy. Befi tting a nation in semi-permanent famine, the


food here is nothing to write home about, slightly cruder executions of the usual Korean specialties like short ribs and seafood pancakes. Maybe the restaurant has something to do with Malaysia’s easygoing welcome of every and any nationality and infl uence, though the service staff in fl owing hanbok gowns, clearly hand-picked to put a pretty face on their country, have all been trained to give the pre-rehearsed reply, “Malaysia too hot. I miss my homeland.”

To prove the point, these servers change into Cinderella drag and then belt out paeans to North Korea’s Mount Paektu displayed on videoscreens around the restaurant, heightening the crowd’s baffl ement, if not spirits. The karaoke draws Hisham’s cackles. Malaysia is a land fated to serve as merry mix-up.

The most obvious sign of Kuala Lumpur’s international aspirations can be seen in the city skyline; in the iconic, 88-storey Petronas Twin Towers. Yet the nation’s big global shift really began with what happened to New York’s twin towers on 9/11. Ostracized from the west by new suspicions and security procedures, free-spending Middle Eastern tourists looked towards welcoming Muslim realms for holidaying, setting off a summertime invasion that came to be known in Malaysia as “the Arab season.” By now, it’s turned into a year-round encampment. Never mind that the city’s “Ain Arabia,” a Middle Eastern bazaar championed by Ala Salih, the hard-charging Iraqi owner of the popular Sahara Tent restaurant, consists solely of a ceremonial gate

Clockwise from far le� : A Nepalese meal at Khukri; Michael Wilson, Australian owner of Artisan Roaster, a suburban KL coff ee bar; inside Wat Tha Chetawan, a Buddhist temple in suburban KL; a graffi ti artist near the Klang River at KUL Sign 2012, a festival of urban art. Opposite: Tokyo Street, a Japanese-themed area in the Pavilion mall.



WorldMags.net



city’s newest venue for belly-dancing. On an open-air balcony where the lit minarets of the massive city mosque provide an atmospheric backdrop, our one-in-a-thousand night begins with some decidedly non-Arabic if scantily clad entertainers drawn from a nearby dance studio. Never mind. If the sources of sin in this town remain rather tame, that’s part of the charm. But Alex now whizzes his tiny Proton at urgent speeds to a club hidden discreetly within the modern new CAPS Square district.

Within the dark confi nes of the Mehfi l Bollywood Lounge, young beauties from India sit listlessly in a row of on-stage chairs, taking turns in pairs thrusting hips and wildly swinging bangled arms to a superb house singer’s plaintive versions of the latest Indo-pop hits. Women, too, are entirely welcome at this one-of-a-kind, only-in-K.L. venue that seems less sinful than simply sinuous.

But Alex insists he knows another fl oor show that’s far more surreal. Drawn by the politics of dancing, we’re joined on the next outing by Hishamuddin Rais. He’s one of Malaysia’s leading dissidents, underground fi lmmakers and blog commentators, usually happy to hang out amidst the reliable multiculturalism of roti parlours and durian sellers in Brickfi eld’s, K.L.’s oldest and most hard-core Indian quarter. Years of exile have hardly dampened his curiosity—and we’re soon sharing a table in the one massive, chandeliered ballroom that comprises the Pyongyang restaurant—run by and for the nearby North Korean embassy. Befi tting a nation in semi-permanent famine, the


food here is nothing to write home about, slightly cruder executions of the usual Korean specialties like short ribs and seafood pancakes. Maybe the restaurant has something to do with Malaysia’s easygoing welcome of every and any nationality and infl uence, though the service staff in fl owing hanbok gowns, clearly hand-picked to put a pretty face on their country, have all been trained to give the pre-rehearsed reply, “Malaysia too hot. I miss my homeland.”

To prove the point, these servers change into Cinderella drag and then belt out paeans to North Korea’s Mount Paektu displayed on videoscreens around the restaurant, heightening the crowd’s baffl ement, if not spirits. The karaoke draws Hisham’s cackles. Malaysia is a land fated to serve as merry mix-up.

The most obvious sign of Kuala Lumpur’s international aspirations can be seen in the city skyline; in the iconic, 88-storey Petronas Twin Towers. Yet the nation’s big global shift really began with what happened to New York’s twin towers on 9/11. Ostracized from the west by new suspicions and security procedures, free-spending Middle Eastern tourists looked towards welcoming Muslim realms for holidaying, setting off a summertime invasion that came to be known in Malaysia as “the Arab season.” By now, it’s turned into a year-round encampment. Never mind that the city’s “Ain Arabia,” a Middle Eastern bazaar championed by Ala Salih, the hard-charging Iraqi owner of the popular Sahara Tent restaurant, consists solely of a ceremonial gate

Clockwise from far le� : A Nepalese meal at Khukri; Michael Wilson, Australian owner of Artisan Roaster, a suburban KL coff ee bar; inside Wat Tha Chetawan, a Buddhist temple in suburban KL; a graffi ti artist near the Klang River at KUL Sign 2012, a festival of urban art. Opposite: Tokyo Street, a Japanese-themed area in the Pavilion mall.



WorldMags.net



TRAVEL+LE ISURE O C TO B E R 2012 9594 O C TO B E R 2012 TRAVEL+LE ISURE

restaurant on the top fl oor of the high-end Pavillion Mall, which attempts to recreate Topkapi Palace favourites like imam bayeldi (“the Sultan fainted”), a meze of roasted eggplant fi lled with onion, garlic and tomato. Several eateries emblazoned as Hadrawmat, while hardly authentic, represent the fl avours of that area of Yemen which fi rst sent Islam to this region via its roaming traders.

The latest outpost to bring distant Muslim worlds to the Malaysian capital is Hammam, which somehow replicates the heated stone lairs of Morocco, along with various women’s beauty treatments, all inside a mall in Bangsar, the enclave west of downtown that has long housed K.L.’s latest galleries, dance clubs and trends. And with Malaysia as the main Southeast Asian country to maintain great relations with the renegade republic of Iran, a decidedly Persian presence continues to grow. Non-aligned as ever, the country has become a good place to obtain both Cuban cigars and Persian carpets. Nearly a quarter-million Iranians, from students to retirees, have now found refuge here. Both their active agitation against the regime of mullahs back home, and drug smuggling exposed in highly publicized busts, continue to cause tension. Yet during Persian New Year in March, visitors can catch all-star concerts of Iran’s top musical divas. Aside from visiting Iran itself, Kuala Lumpur may be the best place to sample Iran’s famed almonds, yogurt, dates or caviar. Here, the most traditional Iranian dishes like mirza ghasemi, a lusciously charred eggplant dip topped by a poached egg, and sekanjabin, a sort of cucumber and mint smoothie, have become veritable Malaysian staples. Despite dozens of imitators, the best place to try these may still be Naab, with its comfortable interior in mud colours evoking the Persian desert, a restaurant opened out of nostalgia by a wealthy Iranian doctor.

In comparison, Koreans are a much smaller community, though their number is expanding rapidly and they may be the most visible, with their own school. If you can’t follow Korean executive wives to Malaysia’s many inexpensive golf links, there’s always the four square–block Koreatown across from the Ampang Point Mall. It’s hardly a scenic area, but it is crammed with grocers, beauty parlours and cafés, even authentic bulgogi barbecues and enough varieties of kimchi in one stroll to make for an easy, virtual trip to Seoul. The Japanese community, centred largely in high-income Mont Kiara, has produced no similar meeting point. A fabricated “Little Tokyo” on the sixth-fl oor of the shining Pavilion Mall attempts to give some fl avour of Malaysia’s former occupiers with arcades of tea and ramen shops.

For a more pleasant evocation of Asian neighbours, Alex brakes for the one Thai temple, Wat Chetawan, set on a green compound in distant Petaling Jaya and off ering the usual glimpses of glittering gold-leaf images of the Buddha accompanied by, if you so choose, a traditional Thai massage.

The Burmese, Nepalese and Bangladeshis who now do much of the nation’s dirty work are slowly adding their culture—and blaring music—to the blocks around Chinatown and the Puduraya Bus Station. For a steadfastly bland town where much of the old architecture has been blasted away, the enclave around Jalan Tun Tan Siew Sin

to a nondescript side street. The ambience of downtown’s Bukit Bintang—K.L.’s combination of tacky Times Square aspiring to palm-fringed Champs-Élysées—has gone from one big Chinese foot massage parlour into a far-fl ung adjunct to Abu Dhabi. And just as the city has become the “in” spot for visiting Arabs to loosen their burnooses and experience an Islamic society with far fewer personal constraints, so its sidewalk cafés off er a chance for foreigners to engage in casual conversations that cross café tables and cultural boundaries. I had a debate with a Saudi man over gay rights as I watched his wife struggle to eat gelato through her veil.

It’s cuisine, as much as any interpretations of the Koran, that has tilted the city towards a decidedly more halal identity. Six years back, it was remarkable to see the fi rst Lebanese restaurant, Tarbush, and the Iranian Naab—now both successful chains. Nowadays, such places aren’t just for group tours from the Persian Gulf. Malays, Indians and Chinese have united around basic purveyors of kebabs, and dips have become de rigueur in every district. The Iraqi-infl uenced Sahara Tent, still satisfying with its hearty lamb stews, has opened a Shah Alam suburban outlet that off ers private parties staged within an indoor, fully carpeted tent. Al-Awan has won awards for its higher quality menu served on white tablecloths. Today, culinary reference points to the Middle Eastern world include Bosphorus, the Turkish

Kuala Lumpur has become the “in” spot. Its sidewalk cafes off er a chance for foreigners to engage in casual conversations that cross cafe tables and cultural boundaries

A gallery in the suburban Publika mall. Opposite: Jalan Sultan

Ismail replicates a taste of the Middle East in Kuala Lumpur.



WorldMags.net



TRAVEL+LE ISURE O C TO B E R 2012 9594 O C TO B E R 2012 TRAVEL+LE ISURE

restaurant on the top fl oor of the high-end Pavillion Mall, which attempts to recreate Topkapi Palace favourites like imam bayeldi (“the Sultan fainted”), a meze of roasted eggplant fi lled with onion, garlic and tomato. Several eateries emblazoned as Hadrawmat, while hardly authentic, represent the fl avours of that area of Yemen which fi rst sent Islam to this region via its roaming traders.

The latest outpost to bring distant Muslim worlds to the Malaysian capital is Hammam, which somehow replicates the heated stone lairs of Morocco, along with various women’s beauty treatments, all inside a mall in Bangsar, the enclave west of downtown that has long housed K.L.’s latest galleries, dance clubs and trends. And with Malaysia as the main Southeast Asian country to maintain great relations with the renegade republic of Iran, a decidedly Persian presence continues to grow. Non-aligned as ever, the country has become a good place to obtain both Cuban cigars and Persian carpets. Nearly a quarter-million Iranians, from students to retirees, have now found refuge here. Both their active agitation against the regime of mullahs back home, and drug smuggling exposed in highly publicized busts, continue to cause tension. Yet during Persian New Year in March, visitors can catch all-star concerts of Iran’s top musical divas. Aside from visiting Iran itself, Kuala Lumpur may be the best place to sample Iran’s famed almonds, yogurt, dates or caviar. Here, the most traditional Iranian dishes like mirza ghasemi, a lusciously charred eggplant dip topped by a poached egg, and sekanjabin, a sort of cucumber and mint smoothie, have become veritable Malaysian staples. Despite dozens of imitators, the best place to try these may still be Naab, with its comfortable interior in mud colours evoking the Persian desert, a restaurant opened out of nostalgia by a wealthy Iranian doctor.

In comparison, Koreans are a much smaller community, though their number is expanding rapidly and they may be the most visible, with their own school. If you can’t follow Korean executive wives to Malaysia’s many inexpensive golf links, there’s always the four square–block Koreatown across from the Ampang Point Mall. It’s hardly a scenic area, but it is crammed with grocers, beauty parlours and cafés, even authentic bulgogi barbecues and enough varieties of kimchi in one stroll to make for an easy, virtual trip to Seoul. The Japanese community, centred largely in high-income Mont Kiara, has produced no similar meeting point. A fabricated “Little Tokyo” on the sixth-fl oor of the shining Pavilion Mall attempts to give some fl avour of Malaysia’s former occupiers with arcades of tea and ramen shops.

For a more pleasant evocation of Asian neighbours, Alex brakes for the one Thai temple, Wat Chetawan, set on a green compound in distant Petaling Jaya and off ering the usual glimpses of glittering gold-leaf images of the Buddha accompanied by, if you so choose, a traditional Thai massage.

The Burmese, Nepalese and Bangladeshis who now do much of the nation’s dirty work are slowly adding their culture—and blaring music—to the blocks around Chinatown and the Puduraya Bus Station. For a steadfastly bland town where much of the old architecture has been blasted away, the enclave around Jalan Tun Tan Siew Sin

to a nondescript side street. The ambience of downtown’s Bukit Bintang—K.L.’s combination of tacky Times Square aspiring to palm-fringed Champs-Élysées—has gone from one big Chinese foot massage parlour into a far-fl ung adjunct to Abu Dhabi. And just as the city has become the “in” spot for visiting Arabs to loosen their burnooses and experience an Islamic society with far fewer personal constraints, so its sidewalk cafés off er a chance for foreigners to engage in casual conversations that cross café tables and cultural boundaries. I had a debate with a Saudi man over gay rights as I watched his wife struggle to eat gelato through her veil.

It’s cuisine, as much as any interpretations of the Koran, that has tilted the city towards a decidedly more halal identity. Six years back, it was remarkable to see the fi rst Lebanese restaurant, Tarbush, and the Iranian Naab—now both successful chains. Nowadays, such places aren’t just for group tours from the Persian Gulf. Malays, Indians and Chinese have united around basic purveyors of kebabs, and dips have become de rigueur in every district. The Iraqi-infl uenced Sahara Tent, still satisfying with its hearty lamb stews, has opened a Shah Alam suburban outlet that off ers private parties staged within an indoor, fully carpeted tent. Al-Awan has won awards for its higher quality menu served on white tablecloths. Today, culinary reference points to the Middle Eastern world include Bosphorus, the Turkish

Kuala Lumpur has become the “in” spot. Its sidewalk cafes off er a chance for foreigners to engage in casual conversations that cross cafe tables and cultural boundaries

A gallery in the suburban Publika mall. Opposite: Jalan Sultan

Ismail replicates a taste of the Middle East in Kuala Lumpur.



WorldMags.net




STAYBerjaya 1 Jln. Imbi; 60-3/2141-0088; berjayahotel.com; doubles from RM268.Prince Hotel & Residence 4 Jln. Conlay; 60-3/2170-8888; princehotelkl.com; doubles from RM315.Ritz-Carlton 168 Jln. Imbi; 60-3/2142-8000; ritzcarlton.com; doubles from RM510.Saujana Jln. Lapangan Terbang Saas; 60-3/7843-1234; thesaujana-kualalumpur.com; doubles from RM357.Sheraton Imperial Jln. Sultan Ismail; 60-3/2717-9900; starwoodhotels.com; doubles from RM355.

EAT Artisan Roast 4 Lorong Rahim Kajai, 14 Taman Tun Dr. Ismail; no phone; coff ee for two RM10.Bosphorus Level 6, KL Pavillion, Jln. Bukit Bintang; 60-3/2142-4000; bosphorus.com.my; dinner for two RM85.De Kebab D5-G4-06, Solaris Dutamas,

Jln. Dutamas 1; 60-3/6205-3580; lunch/dinner for two RM90.Journal by Plan B 1 Jln. Dutamas; Publika; 60-3/6205-5318; thebiggroup.co/planb; dinner for two RM140. Khukri Nepali Restaurant No. 26 First Floor Jln. Tun Tan Siew Sin; 60-3/2072-0663; khukri.com; lunch/dinner for two RM40.The Magnifi cent Fish and Chips Bar 28 Changkat Bukit; 60-3/2142-7021; dinner for two RM75. Mehfi l Bollywood Lounge CAPS Square E Centre, Ground Floor, No. 8 Persiaran Capsquare; 60-1/9222-8287; drinks for two RM60.Naab Restaurant 130 Jln. Bukit Bintang; 60-3/ 2143-3949; naabrestaurant.com; dinner for two RM80.No Black Tie Jazz Club 17 Jln. Mesui off Jln. Nagasari; 60-3/2142-3737; noblacktie.com.my; cover charge for two RM80.

Pyonyang North Korean Restaurant 290A Lorong Palas, off Jln. Ampang; 60-3/4257-9986; dinner for two RM80.QBA Latin Dance Bar Westin Hotel, 199 Jln. Bukit Bintang; 60-3/2731-8333; drinks for two RM60.Sahara Tent 41 & 43 Jln. Sultan Ismail (in Bukit Bintang); 60-3/2144-8310; saharatent.com; dinner for two RM100.TAPS Beer Bar One Residency, 1 Jln. Nagasari; 60-3/ 2110-1560; tapsbeerbar.cmy; drinks for two RM60.

DOHammam Top fl oor, Bangsar Village II Mall, Bangsar; 60-3/2282-2180; treatments from RM85.MAP Solaris Dutamas, Jln. Dutamas 1; mapkl.org; 60-3/6207-9732.Wat Chetawan No. 24 Jln. Pantai off Jln. Gasing, Petaling Jaya; 60-3/7957-2255.

Getting ThereMalaysian Airlines operates regular fl ights from Delhi and Mumbai to Kuala Lumpur while Air Asia off ers connections from Bangalore, Kolkata, Kochi, and Chennai. Visas are mandatory and can be obtained from the High Commission of Malaysia (50-M, Satya Marg, Chanakyapuri, Delhi; 91-11/2611-1291) and cost Rs 1,000.

T+L Guide

seems more wildly alive, prime territory for gawking, than the shrunken remains of nearby Little India. In the heat and crowds around cheap goods and remittance agencies, moneychangers and sari salesmen, it’s not always easy to decipher the many scripts of signboards hovering above. Up a narrow walk-up, the top gathering point for Nepalese is The Khukri, a basic, yellow-painted concrete chamber that also hosts music performances. The menu is unapologetic, though somewhat of an acquired taste.

But to earn global laurels, a city can’t just be a refuge from world horrors; it must be a touchstone of world advancement. To that end, K.L. boasts a whole new brace of consciously cutting-edge outposts. Only in this city could one cruise through the distant bedroom community of T.T.D.I. (Tam Tun Dr. Ismail) and fi nd a just-opened temple of caff eine to rival any in Italy. Forget about kopi o, the over-sweetened Arabica sludge that has been the only option for local java for decades. Amidst brick and concrete at Artisan Roast, where Aussie Michael Wilson—a two-metre-tall presence in black sarong and necklace of ivory beads—and his Malaysian wife have selected some of the fi nest single-origin organic beans on earth: on hand this day are Musasa from Rwanda that Wilson describes as “a journey through an exotic orchard” and Guatemala’s

INDIAN OEAN

ANDAMAN SEA

SOUTH CHINA SEA

400 MI �644 KM�0

SINGAPORE

MALAYSIA

INDONESIA�SUMATRA�

N

KUALA LUMPUR

THAILAND

VIETNAM

CAMBODIA

KualaLumpur

Finca Santa Clara, with notes of “plum and ripe guava.” With loving care, they are not just roasted in Kuala Lumpur but brewed in cylindrical beakers, with test-tube accuracy to the whir of timers and thermometers, producing non-acidic cups best savoured straight and black. This is not only the most astounding caff eine in the city, but perhaps in all Asia.

Similarly new and international in ambience, TAPS aspires to be K.L.’s fi rst true brew pub, and has carefully selected an amazing range of mostly Australian craft ales and Pilseners for leisurely sampling in special draught fi ve-packs. One long row of taps take centrestage—strange brews like Old Engine Oil, IPA Punk and Kooinda Valhalla—in this no-frills drinking spot that also off ers sports on large screens, sans the usual rowdiness. Then there’s Publika, a most internationalized sort of mall, a steel-encased arcade that bills itself as an arts and culture centre and urges its patrons to “RIOT NOT RETAIL!” A circular stage in its piazza has become a centre for new theatre, music and subtle forms of rebellion, right across from Malaysia’s new court for enforcing Islamic family law. Don’t

miss—well, you can’t if you look for chairs on the ceiling—the indoor-outdoor restaurant Journal by Plan B, where New York deli intersects with Melbourne coff ee house.

A mainstay of international culture, the cosy and acoustically perfect No Black Tie, run with aplomb by Sarawak-bred classical pianist Evelyn Hii, is the place to hear experimental musical talent. “I tried to make a club where any musician, of any style, instantly feels at home,” she says. More international still, if more corporate, the Westin Hotel’s QBA presents the city’s only live Cuban dance bands, mostly Colombian these days, thumping out distant beats from a surprising setting of baroque Spanish colonial balconies.

Around the corner, amidst the night spots of Changkat Bukit Bintang, The Magnifi cent Fish and Chips Bar seems more like the latest in the exotic than a holdout of Malaysia’s former British masters, with its battered barramundi and Guinness pies, run by a potty chef who fi rst came to Asia to feed rescued chimpanzees. Perhaps this is the last reminder of Malaysia’s loyalty to a foreign land. Now the whole world is here. Welcome to Southeast Asia’s global showcase. ✚

Clockwise from le� : Alvin Lim, owner of TAPS brewpub; a jazz musician performs at No Black Tie; inside The Magnifi cent Fish and Chips.



WorldMags.net




STAYBerjaya 1 Jln. Imbi; 60-3/2141-0088; berjayahotel.com; doubles from RM268.Prince Hotel & Residence 4 Jln. Conlay; 60-3/2170-8888; princehotelkl.com; doubles from RM315.Ritz-Carlton 168 Jln. Imbi; 60-3/2142-8000; ritzcarlton.com; doubles from RM510.Saujana Jln. Lapangan Terbang Saas; 60-3/7843-1234; thesaujana-kualalumpur.com; doubles from RM357.Sheraton Imperial Jln. Sultan Ismail; 60-3/2717-9900; starwoodhotels.com; doubles from RM355.

EAT Artisan Roast 4 Lorong Rahim Kajai, 14 Taman Tun Dr. Ismail; no phone; coff ee for two RM10.Bosphorus Level 6, KL Pavillion, Jln. Bukit Bintang; 60-3/2142-4000; bosphorus.com.my; dinner for two RM85.De Kebab D5-G4-06, Solaris Dutamas,

Jln. Dutamas 1; 60-3/6205-3580; lunch/dinner for two RM90.Journal by Plan B 1 Jln. Dutamas; Publika; 60-3/6205-5318; thebiggroup.co/planb; dinner for two RM140. Khukri Nepali Restaurant No. 26 First Floor Jln. Tun Tan Siew Sin; 60-3/2072-0663; khukri.com; lunch/dinner for two RM40.The Magnifi cent Fish and Chips Bar 28 Changkat Bukit; 60-3/2142-7021; dinner for two RM75. Mehfi l Bollywood Lounge CAPS Square E Centre, Ground Floor, No. 8 Persiaran Capsquare; 60-1/9222-8287; drinks for two RM60.Naab Restaurant 130 Jln. Bukit Bintang; 60-3/ 2143-3949; naabrestaurant.com; dinner for two RM80.No Black Tie Jazz Club 17 Jln. Mesui off Jln. Nagasari; 60-3/2142-3737; noblacktie.com.my; cover charge for two RM80.

Pyonyang North Korean Restaurant 290A Lorong Palas, off Jln. Ampang; 60-3/4257-9986; dinner for two RM80.QBA Latin Dance Bar Westin Hotel, 199 Jln. Bukit Bintang; 60-3/2731-8333; drinks for two RM60.Sahara Tent 41 & 43 Jln. Sultan Ismail (in Bukit Bintang); 60-3/2144-8310; saharatent.com; dinner for two RM100.TAPS Beer Bar One Residency, 1 Jln. Nagasari; 60-3/ 2110-1560; tapsbeerbar.cmy; drinks for two RM60.

DOHammam Top fl oor, Bangsar Village II Mall, Bangsar; 60-3/2282-2180; treatments from RM85.MAP Solaris Dutamas, Jln. Dutamas 1; mapkl.org; 60-3/6207-9732.Wat Chetawan No. 24 Jln. Pantai off Jln. Gasing, Petaling Jaya; 60-3/7957-2255.

Getting ThereMalaysian Airlines operates regular fl ights from Delhi and Mumbai to Kuala Lumpur while Air Asia off ers connections from Bangalore, Kolkata, Kochi, and Chennai. Visas are mandatory and can be obtained from the High Commission of Malaysia (50-M, Satya Marg, Chanakyapuri, Delhi; 91-11/2611-1291) and cost Rs 1,000.

T+L Guide

seems more wildly alive, prime territory for gawking, than the shrunken remains of nearby Little India. In the heat and crowds around cheap goods and remittance agencies, moneychangers and sari salesmen, it’s not always easy to decipher the many scripts of signboards hovering above. Up a narrow walk-up, the top gathering point for Nepalese is The Khukri, a basic, yellow-painted concrete chamber that also hosts music performances. The menu is unapologetic, though somewhat of an acquired taste.

But to earn global laurels, a city can’t just be a refuge from world horrors; it must be a touchstone of world advancement. To that end, K.L. boasts a whole new brace of consciously cutting-edge outposts. Only in this city could one cruise through the distant bedroom community of T.T.D.I. (Tam Tun Dr. Ismail) and fi nd a just-opened temple of caff eine to rival any in Italy. Forget about kopi o, the over-sweetened Arabica sludge that has been the only option for local java for decades. Amidst brick and concrete at Artisan Roast, where Aussie Michael Wilson—a two-metre-tall presence in black sarong and necklace of ivory beads—and his Malaysian wife have selected some of the fi nest single-origin organic beans on earth: on hand this day are Musasa from Rwanda that Wilson describes as “a journey through an exotic orchard” and Guatemala’s

INDIAN OEAN

ANDAMAN SEA

SOUTH CHINA SEA

400 MI �644 KM�0

SINGAPORE

MALAYSIA

INDONESIA�SUMATRA�

N

KUALA LUMPUR

THAILAND

VIETNAM

CAMBODIA

KualaLumpur

Finca Santa Clara, with notes of “plum and ripe guava.” With loving care, they are not just roasted in Kuala Lumpur but brewed in cylindrical beakers, with test-tube accuracy to the whir of timers and thermometers, producing non-acidic cups best savoured straight and black. This is not only the most astounding caff eine in the city, but perhaps in all Asia.

Similarly new and international in ambience, TAPS aspires to be K.L.’s fi rst true brew pub, and has carefully selected an amazing range of mostly Australian craft ales and Pilseners for leisurely sampling in special draught fi ve-packs. One long row of taps take centrestage—strange brews like Old Engine Oil, IPA Punk and Kooinda Valhalla—in this no-frills drinking spot that also off ers sports on large screens, sans the usual rowdiness. Then there’s Publika, a most internationalized sort of mall, a steel-encased arcade that bills itself as an arts and culture centre and urges its patrons to “RIOT NOT RETAIL!” A circular stage in its piazza has become a centre for new theatre, music and subtle forms of rebellion, right across from Malaysia’s new court for enforcing Islamic family law. Don’t

miss—well, you can’t if you look for chairs on the ceiling—the indoor-outdoor restaurant Journal by Plan B, where New York deli intersects with Melbourne coff ee house.

A mainstay of international culture, the cosy and acoustically perfect No Black Tie, run with aplomb by Sarawak-bred classical pianist Evelyn Hii, is the place to hear experimental musical talent. “I tried to make a club where any musician, of any style, instantly feels at home,” she says. More international still, if more corporate, the Westin Hotel’s QBA presents the city’s only live Cuban dance bands, mostly Colombian these days, thumping out distant beats from a surprising setting of baroque Spanish colonial balconies.

Around the corner, amidst the night spots of Changkat Bukit Bintang, The Magnifi cent Fish and Chips Bar seems more like the latest in the exotic than a holdout of Malaysia’s former British masters, with its battered barramundi and Guinness pies, run by a potty chef who fi rst came to Asia to feed rescued chimpanzees. Perhaps this is the last reminder of Malaysia’s loyalty to a foreign land. Now the whole world is here. Welcome to Southeast Asia’s global showcase. ✚

Clockwise from le� : Alvin Lim, owner of TAPS brewpub; a jazz musician performs at No Black Tie; inside The Magnifi cent Fish and Chips.



WorldMags.net




A thriving contemporary art scene. Game-changing restaurants. One-of-a-kind shops. The stylish harbour city has it all—and more. Mark Ellwood gets the scoop. Photographed by Petrina Tinslay

Our Defi nitive Guide to

The Door Was Open . . . , a chandelier by Nicholas Folland, at the Museum of Contemporary Art Australia, in the Rocks district , in Sydney, Australia. Opposite: Icebergs Dining Room & Bar, overlooking Bondi Beach.

10 Decoder-Sydney12.indd 2-3 21/09/12 5:24 PM


WorldMags.net




A thriving contemporary art scene. Game-changing restaurants. One-of-a-kind shops. The stylish harbour city has it all—and more. Mark Ellwood gets the scoop. Photographed by Petrina Tinslay

Our Defi nitive Guide to

The Door Was Open . . . , a chandelier by Nicholas Folland, at the Museum of Contemporary Art Australia, in the Rocks district , in Sydney, Australia. Opposite: Icebergs Dining Room & Bar, overlooking Bondi Beach.



WorldMags.net




SYDNEY

Lay of the LandFive need-to-know neighbourhoods.

CBD The Central Business District is home to the Sydney Opera House, Harbour Bridge, and top hotels.

THE ROCKS Centuries-old cobblestoned streets are fi lled with outdoor cafés and boutiques.

DARLINGHURSTBustling and chic Oxford Street is the main artery —and essentially the SoHo of Sydney.

SURRY HILLS The onetime garment district is now a bohemian enclave with funky shops and some of the city’s most creative restaurants.

BONDI This world-famous surfi ng beach is just a 20-minute drive east of downtown.

GETTING AROUNDThe best way to navigate the city is on foot, so pack a pair of walking shoes. Tired? Cabs are also handy (USD 15 for 10 minutes) and can be hailed on the street.

The city’s latest cultural spots (beyond the Opera House).

BREENSPACE Owner Sally Breen’s gallery may be tucked away on the third fl oor of a non descript building near Chinatown, but don’t let that fool you: inside are works by Australia’s top talent, including Mitch Cairns and Simry n Gill. 17-19 Alberta St., level 3; breenspace.com.

CARRIAGEWORKS

In a converted 1880 rail yard in Eveleigh, this multi-venue per formance space has been painstakingly preserved. The original cavernous brick-walled interiors house Syd ney’s most progressive the atre and contemporary art. A highlight: “Playwriting Australia,” a series of plays by local writers. 245 Wilson St.; carriageworks.com.au.

MCA AUSTRALIACarve out an a� ernoon to explore the new wing of Sydney’s Museum of Contemporary Art. On view: “Volume One: MCA Collection” where you can discover the works of more than 170 Australian artists refl ecting the breadth of the last 20 years. 140 George St.; mca.com.au.

WHITE RABBIT GALLERYThe well-curated collection of modern Chinese art at this spacious gallery was assembled by longtime collector Judith Neilson, one of Australia’s richest women. Fortunately, her taste level more than matches her deep pockets. We love artist Cang Xin’s 2007 sculptural series. 30 Balfour St.; white rabbitcollection.org.

See+Do

N

1 MI �1.6 KM�0

THE ROCKS

CBD

SURRYHILLS

DARLING HARBOR

From le� : Marking Time, a group installation at the Museum of

Contemporary Art Australia. A work in fi berglass by Jiao

Xingtao at White Rabbit Gallery .

DARLINGHURST

BONDI

Shop

Swing by the 1 Intersection Paddington (Oxford St. and Glenmore Rd.; theintersectionpaddington.com.au), a high-end emporium carrying avant-garde and traditional Australian labels. Browse Alannah Hill’s colourful dresses fit for Katy Perry (No. 118-120); yummy-mummy staple Sass & Bide (No. 132), with its slinky denim and vintage-inspired separates; and Dinosaur Designs (No. 339), a local mainstay known for its Day-Glo resin jewellery and housewares. 2 He Made She Made (70 Oxford St.; hemadeshemade.com) sells whimsical art and furniture, including graffiti-covered chairs, by emerging regional designers. 3 Donna Hay General Store (40 Holdsworth St.; donnahay.com ), on a quiet residential corner in Woollahra, is run by Australia’s Martha Stewart. The designer has converted an old house into a pastel-coloured shop filled with her signature streamlined products: 1940’s-style ceramics in white or seafoam green, scented candles, and white enamel bakeware. Drop in to 4 Victor Churchill (132 Queen St.; victorchurchill.com.au), even if you don’t need picnic fixings. This butcher’s shop looks like Willy Wonka’s meat-minded counterpart, down to the cast-bronze sausage links that serve as the front-door handle. Don’t miss the house-made goodies to go: mushroom tarts with Parmesan and parsley butter, duck rillettes, or galettes with smoked salmon and artichoke hearts.

Where to fi nd the best Aussie designers, housewares, and more.

The six places to bunk down right now—each with a view of the harbour, of course.Stay

BLUERooms at this gem on Woolloomooloo Wharf are lo� - style, with exposed beams and plush beds set against a chocolate-brown and aquamarine palette. BEST FOR Stylish quarters off the beaten path. tajhotels.com. $$

THE DARLINGSexy and cutting-edge—that’s how to describe the newest addition to Darling

Harbour. There’s black-and-red fl ecked wallpaper in the low-lit corridors, and the push of a button lowers your room’s blinds, turns on the TV, and adjusts the air temperature, all at the same time. BEST FOR Hipsters in search of a scene. thedarling.com.au. $$

FOUR SEASONSFrom the sky-high atrium lobby to the clubby hotel bar and

spacious outdoor pool, this classic in the Rocks never dis appoints. BEST FOR Unbeatable service. fourseasons.com. $$$

HILTON The glass-walled tower , designed by architects Johnson Pilton Walker (the team behind the Opera House makeover ), is a quick stroll from the main landmarks. BEST FOR Easy

access to sightseeing. hilton.com. $$

PARK HYATTFronting the Sydney Opera House and Harbour Bridge, the Park Hyatt occupies the city’s most coveted location. A USD 68 million renovation only adds to its allure, with new fl oor-to-ceiling windows and amenities from cult perfumer Le Labo . BEST FOR Knockout views. park.hyatt.com. $$$$

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From top: An abstract resin

ring by Dinosaur Designs; the He Made She Made concept gallery .

Below: The lobby at the Darling, in

Sydney.



WorldMags.net




SYDNEY

Lay of the LandFive need-to-know neighbourhoods.

CBD The Central Business District is home to the Sydney Opera House, Harbour Bridge, and top hotels.

THE ROCKS Centuries-old cobblestoned streets are fi lled with outdoor cafés and boutiques.

DARLINGHURSTBustling and chic Oxford Street is the main artery —and essentially the SoHo of Sydney.

SURRY HILLS The onetime garment district is now a bohemian enclave with funky shops and some of the city’s most creative restaurants.

BONDI This world-famous surfi ng beach is just a 20-minute drive east of downtown.

GETTING AROUNDThe best way to navigate the city is on foot, so pack a pair of walking shoes. Tired? Cabs are also handy (USD 15 for 10 minutes) and can be hailed on the street.

The city’s latest cultural spots (beyond the Opera House).

BREENSPACE Owner Sally Breen’s gallery may be tucked away on the third fl oor of a non descript building near Chinatown, but don’t let that fool you: inside are works by Australia’s top talent, including Mitch Cairns and Simry n Gill. 17-19 Alberta St., level 3; breenspace.com.

CARRIAGEWORKS

In a converted 1880 rail yard in Eveleigh, this multi-venue per formance space has been painstakingly preserved. The original cavernous brick-walled interiors house Syd ney’s most progressive the atre and contemporary art. A highlight: “Playwriting Australia,” a series of plays by local writers. 245 Wilson St.; carriageworks.com.au.

MCA AUSTRALIACarve out an a� ernoon to explore the new wing of Sydney’s Museum of Contemporary Art. On view: “Volume One: MCA Collection” where you can discover the works of more than 170 Australian artists refl ecting the breadth of the last 20 years. 140 George St.; mca.com.au.

WHITE RABBIT GALLERYThe well-curated collection of modern Chinese art at this spacious gallery was assembled by longtime collector Judith Neilson, one of Australia’s richest women. Fortunately, her taste level more than matches her deep pockets. We love artist Cang Xin’s 2007 sculptural series. 30 Balfour St.; white rabbitcollection.org.

See+Do

N

1 MI �1.6 KM�0

THE ROCKS

CBD

SURRYHILLS

DARLING HARBOR

From le� : Marking Time, a group installation at the Museum of

Contemporary Art Australia. A work in fi berglass by Jiao

Xingtao at White Rabbit Gallery .

DARLINGHURST

BONDI

Shop

Swing by the 1 Intersection Paddington (Oxford St. and Glenmore Rd.; theintersectionpaddington.com.au), a high-end emporium carrying avant-garde and traditional Australian labels. Browse Alannah Hill’s colourful dresses fit for Katy Perry (No. 118-120); yummy-mummy staple Sass & Bide (No. 132), with its slinky denim and vintage-inspired separates; and Dinosaur Designs (No. 339), a local mainstay known for its Day-Glo resin jewellery and housewares. 2 He Made She Made (70 Oxford St.; hemadeshemade.com) sells whimsical art and furniture, including graffiti-covered chairs, by emerging regional designers. 3 Donna Hay General Store (40 Holdsworth St.; donnahay.com ), on a quiet residential corner in Woollahra, is run by Australia’s Martha Stewart. The designer has converted an old house into a pastel-coloured shop filled with her signature streamlined products: 1940’s-style ceramics in white or seafoam green, scented candles, and white enamel bakeware. Drop in to 4 Victor Churchill (132 Queen St.; victorchurchill.com.au), even if you don’t need picnic fixings. This butcher’s shop looks like Willy Wonka’s meat-minded counterpart, down to the cast-bronze sausage links that serve as the front-door handle. Don’t miss the house-made goodies to go: mushroom tarts with Parmesan and parsley butter, duck rillettes, or galettes with smoked salmon and artichoke hearts.

Where to fi nd the best Aussie designers, housewares, and more.

The six places to bunk down right now—each with a view of the harbour, of course.Stay

BLUERooms at this gem on Woolloomooloo Wharf are lo� - style, with exposed beams and plush beds set against a chocolate-brown and aquamarine palette. BEST FOR Stylish quarters off the beaten path. tajhotels.com. $$

THE DARLINGSexy and cutting-edge—that’s how to describe the newest addition to Darling

Harbour. There’s black-and-red fl ecked wallpaper in the low-lit corridors, and the push of a button lowers your room’s blinds, turns on the TV, and adjusts the air temperature, all at the same time. BEST FOR Hipsters in search of a scene. thedarling.com.au. $$

FOUR SEASONSFrom the sky-high atrium lobby to the clubby hotel bar and

spacious outdoor pool, this classic in the Rocks never dis appoints. BEST FOR Unbeatable service. fourseasons.com. $$$

HILTON The glass-walled tower , designed by architects Johnson Pilton Walker (the team behind the Opera House makeover ), is a quick stroll from the main landmarks. BEST FOR Easy

access to sightseeing. hilton.com. $$

PARK HYATTFronting the Sydney Opera House and Harbour Bridge, the Park Hyatt occupies the city’s most coveted location. A USD 68 million renovation only adds to its allure, with new fl oor-to-ceiling windows and amenities from cult perfumer Le Labo . BEST FOR Knockout views. park.hyatt.com. $$$$

INS

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Y O

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0.5 MI �0.8 KM�0

N

OXFORD ST.4

OC

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N S

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EL

IZA

BE

TH

ST

.

From top: An abstract resin

ring by Dinosaur Designs; the He Made She Made concept gallery .

Below: The lobby at the Darling, in

Sydney.



WorldMags.net




From haute cuisine to comfort-food classics, Sydney has a restaurant for every type of traveller.

1 Retro-style Gardel’s Bar is like a vintage

supper club with comfy leather booths, leopard-skin throws, and a young, tattooed staff . Come for the juicy chorizo-and-octopus skewers and hot dogs topped with chilli and fried onions, then chance a game on the 1940’s foosball table. 358 Cleveland St.; gardelsbar.com.au. $$

2 Hidden in the industrial

backstreets of Surry Hills, Reuben Hills is the place to sample the city’s best coff ee, Aussie-style: ask for a fl awless fl at white from the apron-clad barista strolling the fl oor—he’ll take your order on his iPad. 61 Albion St.; reubenhills.com.au.

3 The city’s latest hot spot? Neild Avenue,

in Rushcutters Bay. Meze-style dishes are the draw here—there’s four-cheese arancini (deep-fried rice balls), buff alo halloumi, and baked duck-egg custards. The funky interiors, with paintings of centaurs on the walls, were designed by Italian-Australian duo Lazzarini Pickering. 10 Neild Ave.; idrb.com. $$$

4 A bright blue doorway welcomes you to

El Loco, which serves some of the fi nest Mexican food in the city, thanks to renowned chef Dan Hong. Sydneysiders gather at the colourful tables to munch on pork, beef, prawn, chicken, and tofu tacos doused in mouth -watering toppings. 64 Foveaux St.; elloco.com. $$

5 Run by bad-boy chef Matt Moran, Australia’s

answer to Anthony Bourdain, Chiswick dishes up signature unfussy modern food: wood-roasted lamb from Moran’s family farm, vitello tonnato sliders, and heirloom-tomato salad with crushed green olives. Caveat: tables fi ll up quickly, so call at least two weeks ahead. 65 Ocean St.; 61-2/8388-8688; chiswickrestaurant.com.au. $$$

In a city known for its beer, cocktail lounges are the newest obsession.

Drink

Eat

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ION

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NA

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EF

Reuben Hills coff ee shop, in Surry Hills.

1 Text the number on the door of Sticky Bar (182 Campbell St. , level 2)—the bouncer will appear within minutes to whisk you to the top fl oor; order a Lovegun (amaretto, Campari, and orange juice). 2 Mad-scientist-style cocktails are made using such ingredients as liquid nitrogen at the Roosevelt (32 Orwell St.; theroosevelt.com.au ). Try the Martini of Tomorrow. 3 For a standout negroni (and a 300-bottle wine list), head to Love, Tilly Devine (91 Crown Lane; lovetillydevine.com ).

SYDNEY

MATT MORANChef, Chiswick restaurant

LIZ ANN MACGREGOR Director of the Museum of Contemporary Art

LOUISE OLSENCofounder, designer, and creative director of Dinosaur Designs

Three Sydneysiders share their favourite spots in the city.

Follow the weekend crowd two hours west to the Blue Mountains, Sydney’s popular hilltop getaway. There, spend your days hiking the lush valley.

Beyond the City

Local Take

From le� : Steamed spanner crab

with autumn salad at Icebergs Dining

Room & Bar; Cooper Park, in Woollahra; Artisan Focacceria,

in Darlinghurst.

Where I go for......a swim in the ocean“Bronte—a wonderful little cove

with a beach near Bondi. There’s great snorkelling.”...a relaxing Sunday lunch“Hands down, the cliffside Icebergs Dining Room & Bar (1 Notts Ave.; idrb.com; $$$), where you feel like you’re sitting on the water.”...a casual cocktail and dinner“At Miss Chu (178 Campbell Parade; misschu.com.au; $$), you can order delicious Singapore Slings with spring rolls and fresh dumplings.”

Where I go for......an indulgent splurge“One of the most revered restaurants

in Darlinghurst is Buon Ricordo (108 Boundary St.; buonricordo.com.au; $$$$), with truffle pasta to die for.”

…my morning caffeine jolt“I never pass up a flat white at Artisan Focacceria (230 Palmer St.; 61-2/9326-9227 ).”

…takeout after work“Lucio Pizzeria (248 Palmer St. ; luciopizzeria.com.au; $$$), in Darlinghurst, serves the best pizza in the city.” �

Where I go for......an afternoon pint“Lord Dudley Public Bar (236 Jersey Rd.; lorddudley.com.au) is one of my go-to bars: you can actually sit there and have a beer quietly.”

…burning off calories after lunch “Cooper Park has a huge hill that’s great for running. It’s very family-oriented, with tennis courts and plenty of open space.”

…an afternoon with my son“The city’s best-kept secret is Gordon’s Bay. I go down to the beach with my little guy, and we feed the groupers.”

Seeking a more tropical escape? Head 222 kilometres south to Jervis Bay, which looks like the backdrop of The Blue Lagoon: white sands lapped by clear, blue water teeming with rays.

For an easier jaunt, hop a harbour ferry to the northern beaches on the city’s outer edge and stroll the Victoria Parade in Manly.


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From haute cuisine to comfort-food classics, Sydney has a restaurant for every type of traveller.

1 Retro-style Gardel’s Bar is like a vintage

supper club with comfy leather booths, leopard-skin throws, and a young, tattooed staff . Come for the juicy chorizo-and-octopus skewers and hot dogs topped with chilli and fried onions, then chance a game on the 1940’s foosball table. 358 Cleveland St.; gardelsbar.com.au. $$

2 Hidden in the industrial

backstreets of Surry Hills, Reuben Hills is the place to sample the city’s best coff ee, Aussie-style: ask for a fl awless fl at white from the apron-clad barista strolling the fl oor—he’ll take your order on his iPad. 61 Albion St.; reubenhills.com.au.

3 The city’s latest hot spot? Neild Avenue,

in Rushcutters Bay. Meze-style dishes are the draw here—there’s four-cheese arancini (deep-fried rice balls), buff alo halloumi, and baked duck-egg custards. The funky interiors, with paintings of centaurs on the walls, were designed by Italian-Australian duo Lazzarini Pickering. 10 Neild Ave.; idrb.com. $$$

4 A bright blue doorway welcomes you to

El Loco, which serves some of the fi nest Mexican food in the city, thanks to renowned chef Dan Hong. Sydneysiders gather at the colourful tables to munch on pork, beef, prawn, chicken, and tofu tacos doused in mouth -watering toppings. 64 Foveaux St.; elloco.com. $$

5 Run by bad-boy chef Matt Moran, Australia’s

answer to Anthony Bourdain, Chiswick dishes up signature unfussy modern food: wood-roasted lamb from Moran’s family farm, vitello tonnato sliders, and heirloom-tomato salad with crushed green olives. Caveat: tables fi ll up quickly, so call at least two weeks ahead. 65 Ocean St.; 61-2/8388-8688; chiswickrestaurant.com.au. $$$

In a city known for its beer, cocktail lounges are the newest obsession.

Drink

Eat

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Reuben Hills coff ee shop, in Surry Hills.

1 Text the number on the door of Sticky Bar (182 Campbell St. , level 2)—the bouncer will appear within minutes to whisk you to the top fl oor; order a Lovegun (amaretto, Campari, and orange juice). 2 Mad-scientist-style cocktails are made using such ingredients as liquid nitrogen at the Roosevelt (32 Orwell St.; theroosevelt.com.au ). Try the Martini of Tomorrow. 3 For a standout negroni (and a 300-bottle wine list), head to Love, Tilly Devine (91 Crown Lane; lovetillydevine.com ).

SYDNEY

MATT MORANChef, Chiswick restaurant

LIZ ANN MACGREGOR Director of the Museum of Contemporary Art

LOUISE OLSENCofounder, designer, and creative director of Dinosaur Designs

Three Sydneysiders share their favourite spots in the city.

Follow the weekend crowd two hours west to the Blue Mountains, Sydney’s popular hilltop getaway. There, spend your days hiking the lush valley.

Beyond the City

Local Take

From le� : Steamed spanner crab

with autumn salad at Icebergs Dining

Room & Bar; Cooper Park, in Woollahra; Artisan Focacceria,

in Darlinghurst.

Where I go for......a swim in the ocean“Bronte—a wonderful little cove

with a beach near Bondi. There’s great snorkelling.”...a relaxing Sunday lunch“Hands down, the cliffside Icebergs Dining Room & Bar (1 Notts Ave.; idrb.com; $$$), where you feel like you’re sitting on the water.”...a casual cocktail and dinner“At Miss Chu (178 Campbell Parade; misschu.com.au; $$), you can order delicious Singapore Slings with spring rolls and fresh dumplings.”

Where I go for......an indulgent splurge“One of the most revered restaurants

in Darlinghurst is Buon Ricordo (108 Boundary St.; buonricordo.com.au; $$$$), with truffle pasta to die for.”

…my morning caffeine jolt“I never pass up a flat white at Artisan Focacceria (230 Palmer St.; 61-2/9326-9227 ).”

…takeout after work“Lucio Pizzeria (248 Palmer St. ; luciopizzeria.com.au; $$$), in Darlinghurst, serves the best pizza in the city.” �

Where I go for......an afternoon pint“Lord Dudley Public Bar (236 Jersey Rd.; lorddudley.com.au) is one of my go-to bars: you can actually sit there and have a beer quietly.”

…burning off calories after lunch “Cooper Park has a huge hill that’s great for running. It’s very family-oriented, with tennis courts and plenty of open space.”

…an afternoon with my son“The city’s best-kept secret is Gordon’s Bay. I go down to the beach with my little guy, and we feed the groupers.”

Seeking a more tropical escape? Head 222 kilometres south to Jervis Bay, which looks like the backdrop of The Blue Lagoon: white sands lapped by clear, blue water teeming with rays.

For an easier jaunt, hop a harbour ferry to the northern beaches on the city’s outer edge and stroll the Victoria Parade in Manly.


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205X273.indd 1 11/09/12 10:03 AM


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STRATEGIES

TR AV E L+LE ISU RE O C TO B E R 2012 105Illustrated by Shreya Kharbanda

start here

T+L’s Top 40+Adventure OutfittersChoosing that next great trip into the outdoors means knowing what kind of adventure you’re after—and finding the right outfitter to match. We’ve created a directory of standout specialists for seven types of getaways, ranging from safaris to biking tours. But first, what traveller type are you? Answer the questions below and follow your path to a T+L exclusive trip. Plus, three Indian outfitters share their top adventure itineraries.

Discover your adventure personality.

...braving the wind and cold.

...dog-sledding

lessons with an Alaskan

musher.

...emperor penguins.

...while...

...in the company of lions...

...paddling through Class Five rapids.

Yes, but I’m looking to keep my heart rate low (doctor’s

orders).

Can we break for Camembert and Bordeaux along the way? Count

me in.

Sounds great—

especially if there are

yurts.

How about

cycling?

How do you feel about traditional

homestays?

The Culture Buff

The Weekend Zoologist

The Glam-Trotter

The Thrill Seeker

Which can only be improved

by...

...that you

get...

So you’re up for an

adventure?

...sipping a freshly made

G&T from the guarded

veranda of my luxury tent.

...landing my 360 in two

feet of fresh powder .

Errr...even lower

than that.

C’mon, this is a vacation!

I’ll needturndown

service...and a spa.

Definitely! It’s all about the

adrenaline rush...

by bree sposato, with additional reporting by nikki ekstein, nina fedrizzi and samai singh

.sl

ins.the wayme

...sfres

G&

...army-crawling through the bush with

biologists to track and tag

them.

10 Strategies 12.indd 1 21/09/12 5:36 PM


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STRATEGIES

Trekking, Walking, and Biking

Alpine Ascents Adrenaline-inducing mountaineering trips that tackle the world’s tallest peaks, including less extreme itineraries such as a seven-day hike up Tanzania’s Mount Kilimanjaro. 1-206/378-1927; alpineascents.com.

t+l trip pick Volcanoes of Iceland Beginner and intermediate climbers conquer Hvannadalshnúkur, the country’s highest summit. July–Sept. departures; nine days from USD 5,000.

Austin-Lehman AdventuresOutstanding guides lead multi-sport excursions through the American West, Central and South America, and beyond. austinlehman.com.

t+l trip pick California Wine Country Go sea kayaking in Tomales Bay to spot seals, cycle through Napa Valley, and hike area redwood forests. June–Oct. departures; six days from USD 2,898.

Butterfield & RobinsonSpecializes in easy guided biking tours in culturally rich regions from Europe to Asia. New, more affordably priced Bistro trips in Europe adopt a can’t-miss formula: a laid-back pace, stays at family-run inns, and good food. butterfield.com.

t+l trip pick Tuscany Bistro Biking Pedal through the charming Tuscan countryside, stopping to sample pecorino and taste wine in Chianti, Cortona, and Pienza. June–Oct. departures; six days from USD 3,995.

such as barrel tastings in Burgundy’s Bichot caves —on her finely tuned walking and biking itineraries in Europe, South America, and more. 1-416/998-4082; grayandco.ca.

t+l trip pick For a T+L reader exclusive hiking trip in Italy, see “The Glam-Trotter”.

Ryder-Walker Alpine Adventures Serious treks through Western Europe (the Mont Blanc region; the Italian Dolomites), the Himalayas, and southeastern Utah. Accommodations vary by region, from luxury tents to intimate chalets. ryderwalker.com.

Country Walkers Moderate and challenging walks (and a few small-ship cruises) in 80 destinations around the world with a roster of insider guides, such as Morocco native Saida Ezzahoui, an expert on native flora and fauna. countrywalkers.com.

t+l trip pick Turkey: Turquoise Coast Sail from Antalya’s Old Town to Istanbul, with visits to little-known Roman ruins and secluded coves . Year-round departures; eight days from USD 4,298.

Gray & Co. Founder Cari Gray offers behind-the-scenes experiences—

t+l trip pick Via Alpina Stage Three From Gstaad, Switzerland, ascend 3,900 feet into the Alps, passing stunning glaciers, remote villages, and beautiful flowering meadows. Aug departures; seven days from USD 2,995.

VBT Bicycling & Walking Vacations This 40-year-old Vermont-based operator leads relaxed bike tours in North America and Europe with an emphasis on food and history. vbt.com.

t+l trip pick Maryland: Cycling the Chesapeake Bay Ride over gently sloping hills, feast on crab, and stay at historic inns. Aug.–Oct. departures; six days from USD 1,795.

traveller type

The Glam-TrotterAn avid traveler who’s not afraid to get her hands dirty (so long as there’s a sink and top-quality soap nearby) . The only thing better than seeing Machu Picchu last month? The bazillion-thread-count linens at the Sanctuary Lodge.

Role Model Meryl Streep in Out of Africa (before she sold her good china).

Gear The Handpresso portable espresso maker, since there’s no trek that can’t be improved by a great Italian dark roast (USD 95; handpresso.com) .

Accessory Moncler Roxane jacket (USD 895; moncler.com).

T+L Exclusive Trip Hiking the Amalfi Coast with Gray & Co. Trek in style on this Italian jaunt along ancient Roman coastal paths, which includes a private tour of the Blue Grotto, a cave on Capri, hilltop stargazing (with a cold glass of limoncello), and overnights at Le Sirenuse, in Positano. Year-round departures through 2012; seven days from USD 7,000.

experiences (storytelling in Ireland; a game of boules in Provence; visiting mask makers in Bali). Multiple route options appeal to all skill levels. backroads.com.

t+l trip pick Holland and Belgium: From the Dutch Countryside to Beautiful Bruges Pedal past flower fields, canals, and pitched-roof farmhouses, with stops to learn how to make Gouda cheese and to visit the unesco World Heritage site of Kinderdijk (known for its 19 preserved windmills). July–Aug. departures; six days from USD 4,198.

Boundless Journeys Culturally immersive itineraries in Africa, Asia, and Europe, among other places, are infused with the expertise of local staff such as Sangay Wangchuk, who

has written a memoir about growing up in rural Bhutan. boundlessjourneys.com.

t+l trip pick Bhutan: Across the Kingdom Explore temples, hike to Tiger’s Nest Monastery, and learn about shamanism on visits to traditional villages. Sept.–Nov. departures; 18 days from USD 6,795.

Brown & Hudson This outfitter, founded by Philippe Brown, a 16-year luxury travel company veteran , creates bespoke private trips that explore the world—from Costa Rica to Cambodia—through the lenses of food, wellness, and wine, to name a few. brownandhudson.com.

t+l trip pick Burma Study enlightenment with an abbot at a monastery, charter a plane into the rain forest, snorkel in the Mergui archipelago, and recharge at a traditional teak house. Year-round departures; seven days from USD 20,000.

Classic Journeys Unbeatable access to experiences around the globe—learning firsthand about a family-run organic coffee plantation in the Galápagos; dining in a private home in Delhi—are woven into every walking-based excursion, from Ireland to Bhutan . classicjourneys.com.

t+l trip pick For a T+L reader-exclusive trip in Turkey, see “The Culture Buff”.

G Adventures Small groups, the use of local transportation and guides, and one-on-one connections are the cornerstones of the company formerly known as Gap Adventures. Hundreds of trips are on offer worldwide, but this year marks the company’s

Adventure Outfitters


er

s

pa h b l t ti

Abercrombie & Kentriver & railSouthern Africa by River and Rail (2013)The Highlights Float down the Chobe River on the Zambezi Queen; view game in a mokoro (dug-out canoe), in a 4x4 vehicle, on a walking safari and from your veranda; stop for sundowners; view Victoria Falls on a “Flight of Angels” helicopter ride; spend two nights on board Rovos Rail.The Details May 12, Aug 4, Nov 24, 2013 departures; 11 days from USD 11995 per person.

trekkingMount Kilimanjaro: The Roof of Africa by the Umbwe RouteThe HighlightsAscend Africa’s highest peak via the Umbwe Route; marvel at landscapes that shi� from montane forests to alpine desert to icy summit; Kilimanjaro trek is best suited for serious climbers. The Details October 19, November 2, 2013 departures; seven days from USD 3,995 per person.

cruiseAn Arctic Cruise Adventure—Polar Bear CountryThe Highlights: Join A&K’s expedition team for a trip to the High Arctic Svalbard archipelago in Norway, less than 1,000 kilometres from the North Pole; observe fl ora that comes alive under July’s midnight sun; search for the mighty polar bear; discover Greenland’s Bronze Age villages, Eskimo settlements and fi shing enclaves; end your journey amid the volcanoes of Iceland.The Details Jul 16, 2013, departure; 15 days from USD 11,995 per person. 91-11/4600-1600; abercrombiekent.co.in.

safariSOTC Winter Kenya Safari 2012The Highlights Land in Nairobi; en route to Masai Mara stop at the edge of the Great Ri� Valley; witness the people of the Masai tribes; arrive at Masai Mara Reserve and check into the Mara Sentrim Lodge; go on a game drive into the Mara Reserve; walk along the river; explore Baboon Cliff and Lake Nakuru; stay overnight at the lovely Mount Kenya Safari Club.The Details Departures through March 2013; six days from Rs 32,699 plus USD 899 per person including airfare, accommodation with breakfast, sightseeing, transfers.

city & oceanSOTC Wonders of Australia 2012The Highlights Your trip includes guided city tour of Melbourne Ground; a drive to the Great Ocean Road and the Twelve Apostles; Tangalooma Resort for a 4 wheel drive and feeding dolphins; view the scenic Gold Coast on a helicopter ride and visit Shark Bay and Polar Bear Shore at Sea World; spend a day at Movie World; head to Cairns and the Kuranda Rain Forest on Skyrail; go on a cruise to the Great Barrier Reef; enjoy the carnival atmosphere aboard the Sydney Show Boat Cruise; guided tour inside the Sydney Opera House, Sydney Tower, Sydney Aquarium and Sydney Wildlife WorldThe Details Departures through March 2013; 11 days from Rs 71,999 plus USD 2,164 per person including return airfare, accommodation with breakfast, sightseeing, transfers. 1-800/209-3344; sotc.in.

SOTC

Local Culture

Adventures by Disney Family-focussed, immersive trips range from spotting scarlet-throated frigate birds in the Galápagos to lessons in kite making in China. New trips for 2013 go to Cambodia, Laos, and Vietnam. adventuresbydisney.com. t+l trip pick Jewels of Southeast Asia Explore Cambodia’s Angkor Wat, visit a working rice farm, and take a cruise down the Mekong River. Year-round departures; 12 days from USD 4,849.

Backroads Active travel (cycling; walking; sea kayaking; rock climbing) paired with unexpected cultural

10 Strategies 12.indd 2-3 21/09/12 5:37 PM


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STRATEGIES

Trekking, Walking, and Biking

Alpine Ascents Adrenaline-inducing mountaineering trips that tackle the world’s tallest peaks, including less extreme itineraries such as a seven-day hike up Tanzania’s Mount Kilimanjaro. 1-206/378-1927; alpineascents.com.

t+l trip pick Volcanoes of Iceland Beginner and intermediate climbers conquer Hvannadalshnúkur, the country’s highest summit. July–Sept. departures; nine days from USD 5,000.

Austin-Lehman AdventuresOutstanding guides lead multi-sport excursions through the American West, Central and South America, and beyond. austinlehman.com.

t+l trip pick California Wine Country Go sea kayaking in Tomales Bay to spot seals, cycle through Napa Valley, and hike area redwood forests. June–Oct. departures; six days from USD 2,898.

Butterfield & RobinsonSpecializes in easy guided biking tours in culturally rich regions from Europe to Asia. New, more affordably priced Bistro trips in Europe adopt a can’t-miss formula: a laid-back pace, stays at family-run inns, and good food. butterfield.com.

t+l trip pick Tuscany Bistro Biking Pedal through the charming Tuscan countryside, stopping to sample pecorino and taste wine in Chianti, Cortona, and Pienza. June–Oct. departures; six days from USD 3,995.

such as barrel tastings in Burgundy’s Bichot caves —on her finely tuned walking and biking itineraries in Europe, South America, and more. 1-416/998-4082; grayandco.ca.

t+l trip pick For a T+L reader exclusive hiking trip in Italy, see “The Glam-Trotter”.

Ryder-Walker Alpine Adventures Serious treks through Western Europe (the Mont Blanc region; the Italian Dolomites), the Himalayas, and southeastern Utah. Accommodations vary by region, from luxury tents to intimate chalets. ryderwalker.com.

Country Walkers Moderate and challenging walks (and a few small-ship cruises) in 80 destinations around the world with a roster of insider guides, such as Morocco native Saida Ezzahoui, an expert on native flora and fauna. countrywalkers.com.

t+l trip pick Turkey: Turquoise Coast Sail from Antalya’s Old Town to Istanbul, with visits to little-known Roman ruins and secluded coves . Year-round departures; eight days from USD 4,298.

Gray & Co. Founder Cari Gray offers behind-the-scenes experiences—

t+l trip pick Via Alpina Stage Three From Gstaad, Switzerland, ascend 3,900 feet into the Alps, passing stunning glaciers, remote villages, and beautiful flowering meadows. Aug departures; seven days from USD 2,995.

VBT Bicycling & Walking Vacations This 40-year-old Vermont-based operator leads relaxed bike tours in North America and Europe with an emphasis on food and history. vbt.com.

t+l trip pick Maryland: Cycling the Chesapeake Bay Ride over gently sloping hills, feast on crab, and stay at historic inns. Aug.–Oct. departures; six days from USD 1,795.

traveller type

The Glam-TrotterAn avid traveler who’s not afraid to get her hands dirty (so long as there’s a sink and top-quality soap nearby) . The only thing better than seeing Machu Picchu last month? The bazillion-thread-count linens at the Sanctuary Lodge.

Role Model Meryl Streep in Out of Africa (before she sold her good china).

Gear The Handpresso portable espresso maker, since there’s no trek that can’t be improved by a great Italian dark roast (USD 95; handpresso.com) .

Accessory Moncler Roxane jacket (USD 895; moncler.com).

T+L Exclusive Trip Hiking the Amalfi Coast with Gray & Co. Trek in style on this Italian jaunt along ancient Roman coastal paths, which includes a private tour of the Blue Grotto, a cave on Capri, hilltop stargazing (with a cold glass of limoncello), and overnights at Le Sirenuse, in Positano. Year-round departures through 2012; seven days from USD 7,000.

experiences (storytelling in Ireland; a game of boules in Provence; visiting mask makers in Bali). Multiple route options appeal to all skill levels. backroads.com.

t+l trip pick Holland and Belgium: From the Dutch Countryside to Beautiful Bruges Pedal past flower fields, canals, and pitched-roof farmhouses, with stops to learn how to make Gouda cheese and to visit the unesco World Heritage site of Kinderdijk (known for its 19 preserved windmills). July–Aug. departures; six days from USD 4,198.

Boundless Journeys Culturally immersive itineraries in Africa, Asia, and Europe, among other places, are infused with the expertise of local staff such as Sangay Wangchuk, who

has written a memoir about growing up in rural Bhutan. boundlessjourneys.com.

t+l trip pick Bhutan: Across the Kingdom Explore temples, hike to Tiger’s Nest Monastery, and learn about shamanism on visits to traditional villages. Sept.–Nov. departures; 18 days from USD 6,795.

Brown & Hudson This outfitter, founded by Philippe Brown, a 16-year luxury travel company veteran , creates bespoke private trips that explore the world—from Costa Rica to Cambodia—through the lenses of food, wellness, and wine, to name a few. brownandhudson.com.

t+l trip pick Burma Study enlightenment with an abbot at a monastery, charter a plane into the rain forest, snorkel in the Mergui archipelago, and recharge at a traditional teak house. Year-round departures; seven days from USD 20,000.

Classic Journeys Unbeatable access to experiences around the globe—learning firsthand about a family-run organic coffee plantation in the Galápagos; dining in a private home in Delhi—are woven into every walking-based excursion, from Ireland to Bhutan . classicjourneys.com.

t+l trip pick For a T+L reader-exclusive trip in Turkey, see “The Culture Buff”.

G Adventures Small groups, the use of local transportation and guides, and one-on-one connections are the cornerstones of the company formerly known as Gap Adventures. Hundreds of trips are on offer worldwide, but this year marks the company’s



er

s

pa h b l t ti

Abercrombie & Kentriver & railSouthern Africa by River and Rail (2013)The Highlights Float down the Chobe River on the Zambezi Queen; view game in a mokoro (dug-out canoe), in a 4x4 vehicle, on a walking safari and from your veranda; stop for sundowners; view Victoria Falls on a “Flight of Angels” helicopter ride; spend two nights on board Rovos Rail.The Details May 12, Aug 4, Nov 24, 2013 departures; 11 days from USD 11995 per person.

trekkingMount Kilimanjaro: The Roof of Africa by the Umbwe RouteThe HighlightsAscend Africa’s highest peak via the Umbwe Route; marvel at landscapes that shi� from montane forests to alpine desert to icy summit; Kilimanjaro trek is best suited for serious climbers. The Details October 19, November 2, 2013 departures; seven days from USD 3,995 per person.

cruiseAn Arctic Cruise Adventure—Polar Bear CountryThe Highlights: Join A&K’s expedition team for a trip to the High Arctic Svalbard archipelago in Norway, less than 1,000 kilometres from the North Pole; observe fl ora that comes alive under July’s midnight sun; search for the mighty polar bear; discover Greenland’s Bronze Age villages, Eskimo settlements and fi shing enclaves; end your journey amid the volcanoes of Iceland.The Details Jul 16, 2013, departure; 15 days from USD 11,995 per person. 91-11/4600-1600; abercrombiekent.co.in.

safariSOTC Winter Kenya Safari 2012The Highlights Land in Nairobi; en route to Masai Mara stop at the edge of the Great Ri� Valley; witness the people of the Masai tribes; arrive at Masai Mara Reserve and check into the Mara Sentrim Lodge; go on a game drive into the Mara Reserve; walk along the river; explore Baboon Cliff and Lake Nakuru; stay overnight at the lovely Mount Kenya Safari Club.The Details Departures through March 2013; six days from Rs 32,699 plus USD 899 per person including airfare, accommodation with breakfast, sightseeing, transfers.

city & oceanSOTC Wonders of Australia 2012The Highlights Your trip includes guided city tour of Melbourne Ground; a drive to the Great Ocean Road and the Twelve Apostles; Tangalooma Resort for a 4 wheel drive and feeding dolphins; view the scenic Gold Coast on a helicopter ride and visit Shark Bay and Polar Bear Shore at Sea World; spend a day at Movie World; head to Cairns and the Kuranda Rain Forest on Skyrail; go on a cruise to the Great Barrier Reef; enjoy the carnival atmosphere aboard the Sydney Show Boat Cruise; guided tour inside the Sydney Opera House, Sydney Tower, Sydney Aquarium and Sydney Wildlife WorldThe Details Departures through March 2013; 11 days from Rs 71,999 plus USD 2,164 per person including return airfare, accommodation with breakfast, sightseeing, transfers. 1-800/209-3344; sotc.in.

SOTC

Local Culture

Adventures by Disney Family-focussed, immersive trips range from spotting scarlet-throated frigate birds in the Galápagos to lessons in kite making in China. New trips for 2013 go to Cambodia, Laos, and Vietnam. adventuresbydisney.com. t+l trip pick Jewels of Southeast Asia Explore Cambodia’s Angkor Wat, visit a working rice farm, and take a cruise down the Mekong River. Year-round departures; 12 days from USD 4,849.

Backroads Active travel (cycling; walking; sea kayaking; rock climbing) paired with unexpected cultural



WorldMags.net




STRATEGIES

and sail to Rinca and Komodo islands to get up close to Komodo dragons. Apr.–Nov. departures; 10 days from USD 3,950.

Red Savannah All trips are tailor-made at this outfitter, opened last year by George Morgan-Grenville, a 24-year luxury travel veteran, and share an emphasis on meaningful interactions with locals in Africa, Asia, Europe, and the Middle East. Guides have at least 10 years of field experience. 44-1242/787-800; redsavannah.com.

t+l trip pick Machu Picchu, Trek in Style Meet indigenous Quechua people before taking a guided

t+l trip pick Shikoku and the Naoshima Islands of Japan Take a soba-making class, trace the old Shingon Buddhist pilgrimage route, and sleep at a ryokan. May–Oct. departures; seven days from USD 5,665.

Kensington Tours A vast range of personalized itineraries, including working on archaeological digs in Israel and trekking to see gorillas in Rwanda, while staying in castles, ashrams, tropical tree houses, and tented safari camps. kensingtontours.com.

t+l trip pickBali Orangutans and Dragons Explore Bali, fly to Indonesian Borneo to observe orangutans,

first foray into North America. gadventures.com.

t+l trip pick Guatemala Local Living Learn how to make tortillas and weave colourful textiles during a homestay in a village on Lake Atitlán, in the central highlands. Nov.–Dec. departures; eight days from USD 499.

Geographic Expeditions This trailblazer explores the remote corners of every continent using guides with extensive on-the-ground networks, such as San Francisco–based Vassi Koutsaftis, who has been leading trips into Burma, Tibet, and Nepal for 25 years. Newly added: a small selection of family trips. geoex.com.

traveller type

The Weekend ZoologistAsked for a butterfl y net for fi fth birthday; at 10 it was a microscope. Spotted rare birds on four continents and is currently ranked No. 48 on the American Birding Association’s competitive international list . After that black-grouse sighting at Loch Lomond, hopes to make it to No. 47 by year’s end.

Role Model Jack Hanna

Gear Sony Cyber-shot Digital Camera ( DSC-TX200V). It’s waterproof and dust -proof, and with its high-speed auto-focus, you’ll capture that hairy-nosed wombat every time (USD 499.99; store.sony.com ).

Accessory DPC Outdoors cotton/canvas mesh safari hat (USD 55; dorfman-pacific.com).

T+L Exclusive Trip Rare Shoebill Safari with Journeys by Design. Channel your inner ornithologist on this Zambian safari, which has some of the best bird-viewing on the continent (rare shoebill storks; wattled cranes ). Nov.–March and May departures; seven days from USD 3,955.

explore mountains and fjords and to camp atop the ice. Dec. 4 departure; 28 days from USD 16,900.

Frontiers International Travel Founded more than four decades ago, this fishing outfitter has a huge global presence, with access to pristine spots from Canada to Mongolia. frontierstravel.com.

t+l trip pick Bahamas: Delphi Club on Abaco Island Excellent bonefish trolling for serious anglers; the intimate eight-room Delphi Club serves as a base, with access to a golf course and a white-sand beach. Oct.–June departures; four days from USD 3,532.

Mountain Travel Sobek More than 40 years of experience arranging hiking, trekking, rafting, and kayaking excursions, with group or private itineraries. 888/831-7526; mtsobek.com. t+l trip pick Alaska: Rafting the Tatshenshini River Brave Class Two and Three rapids for more than 210 kilometres through the world’s largest contiguous wilderness area, passing icebergs and stopping to walk among mountain goats and spot bald eagles. June–Sept. departures; nine days from USD 3,195.

Rod & Gun ResourcesFishing trips to Alaska, the Amazon, Argentina, and beyond,

with stays in comfortable jungle lodges, cabin barges , and tented camps. rodgunresources.com.

t+l trip pick Bolivian Adventure The company’s first venture in Bolivia goes to the remote Caño Negro River, home to the exotic peacock bass. July–Dec. departures; four days from USD 3,895.

Row Adventures This outfitter now runs land-based trips, but its main focus remains white-water rafting in Idaho, Montana, Oregon, Ecuador, and the Galápagos. Environmental scientist Peter Metcalf shares his in-depth knowledge on trips down the Middle Fork of the Salmon River, in Idaho. rowadventures.com .

t+l trip pick Middle Fork of the Salmon Rafting Descend 3,000 feet aboard a raft along the 177-kilometre-long river, pausing to view hot springs and to visit historic pioneer homesteads. June�Sept. departures; five days from USD 1,625.

Off the GridEpicQuest The brainchild of serious athletes, EpicQuest leads active trips from skiing untouched terrain in Alaska to fishing off the Kenyan coast. epicquest.com.

t+l trip pick South American Ski Adventure Head to the Chilean Andes to tackle some of the world’s longest heli-skiing runs . July–Sept. departures; eight days from USD 12,500.

Epic TomatoThis adventure-minded offshoot of tour operator Black Tomato creates extreme custom journeys such as 10-day treks in the Borneo jungle in search of the Penan tribe and horseback crossings of the Bolivian salt flats. Many guides have military and Special Forces backgrounds. 44-20/7426-9899; epictomato.com.

t+l trip pick For a readers-only jungle expedition in Malaysia, see “The Thrill Seeker”.

Lindblad Expeditions Its small-group, nature-based trips aboard expedition ships equipped with kayaks and Zodiacs go to such far-flung destinations as Alaska, Antarctica, and the upper Amazon. 1-212/765-7740; expeditions.com.

t+l trip pick Impressions of Northern Norway The 148-passenger National Geographic Explorer


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traveller type

The Culture Buff Speaks four languages, two of which are extinct . Owns a collection of Etruscan pottery fragments that’s the envy of the anthropology club. Recently acquired a rare shrunken head from the Shuar tribe of Peru .

Role Model Indiana Jones

Gear Pantech Element, AT&T’s waterproof tablet, is ideal for research on the road—or at the excavation site (USD 299; wireless.att.com ).

Accessory SteamLine Stylist Series luggage (from USD 280; steamline.com).

T+L Exclusive Trip Turquoise Coast & Cappadocia with Classic Journeys. Start in Istanbul, then board a 70-foot gulet (teak yacht) to explore the coast. Along the way, see Cappadocia from a hot-air balloon and snorkel to ancient underwater ruins. Sept.–Oct. departures; nine days from USD 4,795.

tour of Machu Picchu. April–Oct. departures; eight days from USD 4,320.

Tauck This Connecticut-based company offers close to 100 trips, including river cruises in Europe and volunteer conservation programmes in Grand Teton National Park. tauck.com.

t+l trip pick Culturious Costa Rica Visit small villages and coffee plantations before taking a horseback ride through a private hacienda and kayaking through mangrove forest. Year-round departures; eight days from USD 2,770.

Travcoa Small-ship river cruises with immersive land excursions are Travcoa’s specialty. travcoa.com.

t+l trip pick Splendours of India with Sri Lanka and the Maldives Set sail from Mumbai on the 110-passenger Clipper Odyssey, stop for a cooking class in a Goan home, and snorkel among coral at Uligamu, a northern island of the Maldives. Nov. departures; 18 days from USD 11,480.

River and Ocean

Explorers’ Corner Founder Olaf Malver often serves as a guide on his company’s legendary expeditions into the polar regions; less intrepid, warm-water kayaking trips are also available. explorerscorner.com.

t+l trip pick Antarctica: The Ultimate Polar Wildlife Adventure Sail aboard the 54-foot Northanger, disembarking to



WorldMags.net




STRATEGIES

and sail to Rinca and Komodo islands to get up close to Komodo dragons. Apr.–Nov. departures; 10 days from USD 3,950.

Red Savannah All trips are tailor-made at this outfitter, opened last year by George Morgan-Grenville, a 24-year luxury travel veteran, and share an emphasis on meaningful interactions with locals in Africa, Asia, Europe, and the Middle East. Guides have at least 10 years of field experience. 44-1242/787-800; redsavannah.com.

t+l trip pick Machu Picchu, Trek in Style Meet indigenous Quechua people before taking a guided

t+l trip pick Shikoku and the Naoshima Islands of Japan Take a soba-making class, trace the old Shingon Buddhist pilgrimage route, and sleep at a ryokan. May–Oct. departures; seven days from USD 5,665.

Kensington Tours A vast range of personalized itineraries, including working on archaeological digs in Israel and trekking to see gorillas in Rwanda, while staying in castles, ashrams, tropical tree houses, and tented safari camps. kensingtontours.com.

t+l trip pickBali Orangutans and Dragons Explore Bali, fly to Indonesian Borneo to observe orangutans,

first foray into North America. gadventures.com.

t+l trip pick Guatemala Local Living Learn how to make tortillas and weave colourful textiles during a homestay in a village on Lake Atitlán, in the central highlands. Nov.–Dec. departures; eight days from USD 499.

Geographic Expeditions This trailblazer explores the remote corners of every continent using guides with extensive on-the-ground networks, such as San Francisco–based Vassi Koutsaftis, who has been leading trips into Burma, Tibet, and Nepal for 25 years. Newly added: a small selection of family trips. geoex.com.

traveller type

The Weekend ZoologistAsked for a butterfl y net for fi fth birthday; at 10 it was a microscope. Spotted rare birds on four continents and is currently ranked No. 48 on the American Birding Association’s competitive international list . After that black-grouse sighting at Loch Lomond, hopes to make it to No. 47 by year’s end.

Role Model Jack Hanna

Gear Sony Cyber-shot Digital Camera ( DSC-TX200V). It’s waterproof and dust -proof, and with its high-speed auto-focus, you’ll capture that hairy-nosed wombat every time (USD 499.99; store.sony.com ).

Accessory DPC Outdoors cotton/canvas mesh safari hat (USD 55; dorfman-pacific.com).

T+L Exclusive Trip Rare Shoebill Safari with Journeys by Design. Channel your inner ornithologist on this Zambian safari, which has some of the best bird-viewing on the continent (rare shoebill storks; wattled cranes ). Nov.–March and May departures; seven days from USD 3,955.

explore mountains and fjords and to camp atop the ice. Dec. 4 departure; 28 days from USD 16,900.

Frontiers International Travel Founded more than four decades ago, this fishing outfitter has a huge global presence, with access to pristine spots from Canada to Mongolia. frontierstravel.com.

t+l trip pick Bahamas: Delphi Club on Abaco Island Excellent bonefish trolling for serious anglers; the intimate eight-room Delphi Club serves as a base, with access to a golf course and a white-sand beach. Oct.–June departures; four days from USD 3,532.

Mountain Travel Sobek More than 40 years of experience arranging hiking, trekking, rafting, and kayaking excursions, with group or private itineraries. 888/831-7526; mtsobek.com. t+l trip pick Alaska: Rafting the Tatshenshini River Brave Class Two and Three rapids for more than 210 kilometres through the world’s largest contiguous wilderness area, passing icebergs and stopping to walk among mountain goats and spot bald eagles. June–Sept. departures; nine days from USD 3,195.

Rod & Gun ResourcesFishing trips to Alaska, the Amazon, Argentina, and beyond,

with stays in comfortable jungle lodges, cabin barges , and tented camps. rodgunresources.com.

t+l trip pick Bolivian Adventure The company’s first venture in Bolivia goes to the remote Caño Negro River, home to the exotic peacock bass. July–Dec. departures; four days from USD 3,895.

Row Adventures This outfitter now runs land-based trips, but its main focus remains white-water rafting in Idaho, Montana, Oregon, Ecuador, and the Galápagos. Environmental scientist Peter Metcalf shares his in-depth knowledge on trips down the Middle Fork of the Salmon River, in Idaho. rowadventures.com .

t+l trip pick Middle Fork of the Salmon Rafting Descend 3,000 feet aboard a raft along the 177-kilometre-long river, pausing to view hot springs and to visit historic pioneer homesteads. June�Sept. departures; five days from USD 1,625.

Off the GridEpicQuest The brainchild of serious athletes, EpicQuest leads active trips from skiing untouched terrain in Alaska to fishing off the Kenyan coast. epicquest.com.

t+l trip pick South American Ski Adventure Head to the Chilean Andes to tackle some of the world’s longest heli-skiing runs . July–Sept. departures; eight days from USD 12,500.

Epic TomatoThis adventure-minded offshoot of tour operator Black Tomato creates extreme custom journeys such as 10-day treks in the Borneo jungle in search of the Penan tribe and horseback crossings of the Bolivian salt flats. Many guides have military and Special Forces backgrounds. 44-20/7426-9899; epictomato.com.

t+l trip pick For a readers-only jungle expedition in Malaysia, see “The Thrill Seeker”.

Lindblad Expeditions Its small-group, nature-based trips aboard expedition ships equipped with kayaks and Zodiacs go to such far-flung destinations as Alaska, Antarctica, and the upper Amazon. 1-212/765-7740; expeditions.com.

t+l trip pick Impressions of Northern Norway The 148-passenger National Geographic Explorer


108 O C TO B E R 2012 TR AV E L+LE ISU RE TR AV E L+LE ISU RE O C TO B E R 2012 109108 O C TO B E R 2012 TR AV E L+LE ISU RE

traveller type

The Culture Buff Speaks four languages, two of which are extinct . Owns a collection of Etruscan pottery fragments that’s the envy of the anthropology club. Recently acquired a rare shrunken head from the Shuar tribe of Peru .

Role Model Indiana Jones

Gear Pantech Element, AT&T’s waterproof tablet, is ideal for research on the road—or at the excavation site (USD 299; wireless.att.com ).

Accessory SteamLine Stylist Series luggage (from USD 280; steamline.com).

T+L Exclusive Trip Turquoise Coast & Cappadocia with Classic Journeys. Start in Istanbul, then board a 70-foot gulet (teak yacht) to explore the coast. Along the way, see Cappadocia from a hot-air balloon and snorkel to ancient underwater ruins. Sept.–Oct. departures; nine days from USD 4,795.

tour of Machu Picchu. April–Oct. departures; eight days from USD 4,320.

Tauck This Connecticut-based company offers close to 100 trips, including river cruises in Europe and volunteer conservation programmes in Grand Teton National Park. tauck.com.

t+l trip pick Culturious Costa Rica Visit small villages and coffee plantations before taking a horseback ride through a private hacienda and kayaking through mangrove forest. Year-round departures; eight days from USD 2,770.

Travcoa Small-ship river cruises with immersive land excursions are Travcoa’s specialty. travcoa.com.

t+l trip pick Splendours of India with Sri Lanka and the Maldives Set sail from Mumbai on the 110-passenger Clipper Odyssey, stop for a cooking class in a Goan home, and snorkel among coral at Uligamu, a northern island of the Maldives. Nov. departures; 18 days from USD 11,480.

River and Ocean

Explorers’ Corner Founder Olaf Malver often serves as a guide on his company’s legendary expeditions into the polar regions; less intrepid, warm-water kayaking trips are also available. explorerscorner.com.

t+l trip pick Antarctica: The Ultimate Polar Wildlife Adventure Sail aboard the 54-foot Northanger, disembarking to



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STRATEGIES

Beckham and Robert De Niro . micato.com.

t+l trip pick Discover Africa’s Heritage Visit unesco-protected areas such as Kenya’s Lake Nakuru and Zanzibar’s Stone Town. Year-round departures ; 12 days from USD 11,525.

VoluntourismBiosphere Expeditions This non-profit runs wildlife volunteer expeditions that connect travellers with conservation researchers in the field. biosphere-expeditions.org.

t+l trip pick Namibia Help wildlife ranchers collar and monitor leopards and collect demographic data on African cat populations in central Namibia. July-Nov. departures; 12 days from USD 2,423.

Elevate Destinations All of Elevate’s trips focus on community development; many are created to deal with current events. This year, guide Andrew Mersmann, author of Frommer’s

500 Places Where You Can Make a Difference , is leading service trips to Haiti. 1-617/661-0203; elevatedestinations.com.

t+l trip pick South Africa Fair-Trade Safari A rhino safari is followed by volunteer work at the Dyer Island Conservation Trust, which protects endangered species, including the African penguin . Year-round departures; 10 days from USD 5,650 .

Regional Specialists

Aracari This Peruvian-owned company organizes low-altitude hikes and extreme treks in Peru , Bolivia, and the Galápagos. It has strong relationships with local communities. 1-312/239-8726; aracari.com.

t+l trip pick Lodge to Lodge Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu Follow the picturesque Salkantay Route to Machu Picchu and stay in luxury lodges. March–Dec. departures; 10 days from USD 3,130.

Asia Transpacific JourneysWith 25 years of experience in the region, Asia Transpacific Journeys operates both group and private trips through Asia and the Pacific. asiatranspacific.com.

t+l trip pick Sacred Mountain Kingdoms—Tibet, Nepal, and Bhutan Meet monks in remote monasteries, observe a riverside Hindu ceremony, and explore ancient temples. April 11, 2013, departure; 20 days from USD 10,495.

MatuetéThis São Paulo, Brazil–based company offers customized yacht cruises on the Amazon, wildlife tours in the wetland regions of the Pantanal, and treks through the canyonlands of Chapada Diamantina National Park. 55-11/3071-4515; matuete.com.

t+l trip pick Lençóis Maranhenses Go by foot, land, and air from São Paulo to Rio de Janeiro, stopping to explore Lençóis Maranhenses National Park—a sandy landscape with thousands of freshwater lagoons. Year-round departures; 15 days from USD 7,500 .

Off the Beaten Path Co-founders Bill and Pam Bryan deliver the ultimate American West experience. Veteran guide Darrell Norman, a member of the Blackfeet tribe, arranges traditional dinners with tribe members in his Montana residence . offthebeatenpath.com.

t+l trip pick Alaska’s Winter Magic Spend time with a family of husky trainers, then strap on snowshoes and peer up at the northern lights. March–April 2013 departures; six days from USD 3,795.

Emerging DestinationsWestern ChinaWhy Now The culturally rich region of Diqing provides a glimpse of Tibetan culture without the red tape, and now it’s easier to reach, thanks to a new road that connects the area to major cities.Don’t Miss The scenic and remote Tibetan village of Benzilan, located in northwestern Yunnan province. How to Visit Along the Tea and Horse Caravan Trail with Abercrombie & Kent. 15 days from USD 12,400.

Burma Why Now After decades of isolation, Burma is an untouched portrait of Buddhist traditions and culture.Don’t Miss The Shwedagon Pagoda—whose dome is covered with 60 tonnes of gold. How to Visit Dream Trip�Myanmar: Into the Heart of Burma with Cox & Kings. 11 days from USD 7,665. MozambiqueWhy Now The country is rehabilitating the wildlife-rich Gorongosa National Park and Niassa National Reserve .Don’t Miss Dhow sailing and wild camping around the Quirimbas Archipelago.How to Visit Private Dhow Sailing Adventure with Journeys by Design. 12 days from USD 5,995.

PatagoniaWhy Now Luxe new lodgings, easier road access, and more flights are making this remote area more accessible .Don’t Miss Horseback riding with gauchos in Chile’s Torres del Paine National Park.How to Visit Bespoke Patagonia with Gray & Co. Eight days from USD 12,000. �

STRATEGIES


Role Model Bear Grylls

Gear North Face’s Powder Guide ABS vest: inflatable nitrogen airbag pouches protect the wearer in the event of an avalanche or rock and tree collisions. ( USD 1,300; northface.com ).

Accessory Revo’s Waterway Titanium sunglasses (USD 249; revo.com).

T+L Exclusive Trip T+L Borneo Trip with Epic Tomato. Fly a Twin Otter aircraft into Borneo’s interior, where you’ll drive an ATV along the Selungo River and visit Gunung Mulu National Park, which has the world’s largest cave chambers. March–Oct. departures; 15 days from USD 10,275.

travels from the polar-bear-filled Arctic Svalbard south to Nordland, where reindeer roam along fjords. July 13, 2013, departure; 13 days from USD 9,999.

Momentum Adventure Created in 2008 by mountain climber Matthew Robertson, the U.K.-based group leads daring multi-sport forays (capped at six travellers each), including pioneering ski trips in Lebanon and Kashmir and canoe trips in the Yukon. 44-1892/784-646; momentumadventure.com. t+l trip pick The Last Degree A combination of flights and serious trekking from Chile to the South Pole . Nov.–Jan. departures; 21 days from USD 80,000.

Quark Expeditions Quark’s ice-class vessels—equipped with not only

helicopters but also biologists, historians, and ornithologists—ply remote polar waters in comfort. This year, Quark launched hot-air balloons on select North Pole trips. quarkexpeditions.com.

t+l trip pick Antarctic Express Fly over the Drake Passage, on the southern tip of South America, then board the 61-cabin Clipper Adventurer to spot glaciers, penguins, and whales (polar camping is optional). Feb. 2013 departures; eight days from USD 7,995.

Wild Frontiers British journalist Jonny Bealby founded the London-based Wild Frontiers, which has multi-sport trips (rafting; trekking; horseback riding) in 40 countries. 44-20/7736-3968; wildfrontiers.co.uk.

view a private Masai dance performance, and camp near the Ngorongoro Crater. Sept.�Dec. departures; 15 days from USD 13,470.

Cox & Kings Founded in 1758, Cox & Kings is one of the world’s longest-running travel companies and has a global portfolio with jungle excursions, culinarily focussed tours, sea voyages—and extraordinary safaris. coxandkingsusa.com.

t+l trip pick Portrait of Kenya Spot Somali ostriches and reticulated giraffes in Samburu National Reserve, balloon over the Masai Mara savanna, and adopt an elephant at the Daphne Sheldrick Elephant Orphanage. July–Oct. departures; 12 days from USD 9,835.

Journeys by Design Founder and environmental scientist Will Jones designs trips to eastern and southern Africa, where he spent 25 years. 1-315/955-6842; journeysbydesign.com.

t+l trip pick See “The Weekend Zoologist,” for a reader-exclusive Zambia trip for bird lovers.

Ker & Downey This community- and conservation-minded outfitter has led tours through Africa, India, and South America for more than 50 years. kerdowney.com.

t+l trip pickPrimates of Africa Come within 15 feet of habituated gorillas in the Republic of the Congo and Rwanda. May–Dec. departures; 17 days from USD 13,195.

Micato Safaris Bespoke safaris in eastern and southern Africa and India with on-the-ground experts. Guide Alan Petersen has led David

river cruise & jungle trekkingExplore Taman Negara, MalaysiaHighlights The jungle at Taman Negara (National Park) is 130 million years old. Indulge in activities like river cruises; jungle trekking; canopy walk; cave exploration; observation hides (simple huts built high above the ground) that allow you to stay overnight to observe animals.The Details Three days from Rs 26,139 per person (ex Delhi) including stay; daily buff et breakfast; airport transfers and sightseeing.

trekkingValley Of FlowersThe Highlights Visit Haridwar, Auli, Ghangaria, Badrinath and the Valley of Flowers National Park. The park starts from Ghangaria but the main valley starts a� er crossing the gorge. Almost 300 species of wild fl owers bloom here in the peak period from mid July to mid-August. The Details Eight days from Rs 29,999 per person (ex Delhi); including stay; entire round trip journey (ex Delhi) by a/c Indigo/Innova; daily meals except only breakfast at Haridwar.91-22/2270-9161; coxandkings.com.

Cox & Kings

t+l trip pick Trekking in the Hindu Kush Cross glaciers, rivers, and pastures as you journey from the Yarkhun River region to the glacier- and river-filled Ishkoman Valley in northern Pakistan. May 11, 2013 , departure ; 17 days from USD 3,713.

Safari Abercrombie & Kent Trips in more than 100 countries with an emphasis on Africa, where well-appointed mobile tented camps ensure that travellers view wildlife in comfort, whether they’re tracking the Great Migration in East Africa or gliding through Botswana’s Okavango Delta in dugout canoes. abercrombiekent.com. t+l trip pick Wings Over the Migration Follow the Great Migration,


traveller type

The Thrill SeekerKeeps his souvenirs where he can see them. That scar on his forehead? From a hang-gliding mishap in Rio . The mark on his knee? Cave diving in Borneo. Likes to start the day with a nice bowl of fear. That’s right: he eats fear for breakfast.



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STRATEGIES

Beckham and Robert De Niro . micato.com.

t+l trip pick Discover Africa’s Heritage Visit unesco-protected areas such as Kenya’s Lake Nakuru and Zanzibar’s Stone Town. Year-round departures ; 12 days from USD 11,525.

VoluntourismBiosphere Expeditions This non-profit runs wildlife volunteer expeditions that connect travellers with conservation researchers in the field. biosphere-expeditions.org.

t+l trip pick Namibia Help wildlife ranchers collar and monitor leopards and collect demographic data on African cat populations in central Namibia. July-Nov. departures; 12 days from USD 2,423.

Elevate Destinations All of Elevate’s trips focus on community development; many are created to deal with current events. This year, guide Andrew Mersmann, author of Frommer’s

500 Places Where You Can Make a Difference , is leading service trips to Haiti. 1-617/661-0203; elevatedestinations.com.

t+l trip pick South Africa Fair-Trade Safari A rhino safari is followed by volunteer work at the Dyer Island Conservation Trust, which protects endangered species, including the African penguin . Year-round departures; 10 days from USD 5,650 .

Regional Specialists

Aracari This Peruvian-owned company organizes low-altitude hikes and extreme treks in Peru , Bolivia, and the Galápagos. It has strong relationships with local communities. 1-312/239-8726; aracari.com.

t+l trip pick Lodge to Lodge Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu Follow the picturesque Salkantay Route to Machu Picchu and stay in luxury lodges. March–Dec. departures; 10 days from USD 3,130.

Asia Transpacific JourneysWith 25 years of experience in the region, Asia Transpacific Journeys operates both group and private trips through Asia and the Pacific. asiatranspacific.com.

t+l trip pick Sacred Mountain Kingdoms—Tibet, Nepal, and Bhutan Meet monks in remote monasteries, observe a riverside Hindu ceremony, and explore ancient temples. April 11, 2013, departure; 20 days from USD 10,495.

MatuetéThis São Paulo, Brazil–based company offers customized yacht cruises on the Amazon, wildlife tours in the wetland regions of the Pantanal, and treks through the canyonlands of Chapada Diamantina National Park. 55-11/3071-4515; matuete.com.

t+l trip pick Lençóis Maranhenses Go by foot, land, and air from São Paulo to Rio de Janeiro, stopping to explore Lençóis Maranhenses National Park—a sandy landscape with thousands of freshwater lagoons. Year-round departures; 15 days from USD 7,500 .

Off the Beaten Path Co-founders Bill and Pam Bryan deliver the ultimate American West experience. Veteran guide Darrell Norman, a member of the Blackfeet tribe, arranges traditional dinners with tribe members in his Montana residence . offthebeatenpath.com.

t+l trip pick Alaska’s Winter Magic Spend time with a family of husky trainers, then strap on snowshoes and peer up at the northern lights. March–April 2013 departures; six days from USD 3,795.

Emerging DestinationsWestern ChinaWhy Now The culturally rich region of Diqing provides a glimpse of Tibetan culture without the red tape, and now it’s easier to reach, thanks to a new road that connects the area to major cities.Don’t Miss The scenic and remote Tibetan village of Benzilan, located in northwestern Yunnan province. How to Visit Along the Tea and Horse Caravan Trail with Abercrombie & Kent. 15 days from USD 12,400.

Burma Why Now After decades of isolation, Burma is an untouched portrait of Buddhist traditions and culture.Don’t Miss The Shwedagon Pagoda—whose dome is covered with 60 tonnes of gold. How to Visit Dream Trip�Myanmar: Into the Heart of Burma with Cox & Kings. 11 days from USD 7,665. MozambiqueWhy Now The country is rehabilitating the wildlife-rich Gorongosa National Park and Niassa National Reserve .Don’t Miss Dhow sailing and wild camping around the Quirimbas Archipelago.How to Visit Private Dhow Sailing Adventure with Journeys by Design. 12 days from USD 5,995.

PatagoniaWhy Now Luxe new lodgings, easier road access, and more flights are making this remote area more accessible .Don’t Miss Horseback riding with gauchos in Chile’s Torres del Paine National Park.How to Visit Bespoke Patagonia with Gray & Co. Eight days from USD 12,000. �

STRATEGIES


Role Model Bear Grylls

Gear North Face’s Powder Guide ABS vest: inflatable nitrogen airbag pouches protect the wearer in the event of an avalanche or rock and tree collisions. ( USD 1,300; northface.com ).

Accessory Revo’s Waterway Titanium sunglasses (USD 249; revo.com).

T+L Exclusive Trip T+L Borneo Trip with Epic Tomato. Fly a Twin Otter aircraft into Borneo’s interior, where you’ll drive an ATV along the Selungo River and visit Gunung Mulu National Park, which has the world’s largest cave chambers. March–Oct. departures; 15 days from USD 10,275.

travels from the polar-bear-filled Arctic Svalbard south to Nordland, where reindeer roam along fjords. July 13, 2013, departure; 13 days from USD 9,999.

Momentum Adventure Created in 2008 by mountain climber Matthew Robertson, the U.K.-based group leads daring multi-sport forays (capped at six travellers each), including pioneering ski trips in Lebanon and Kashmir and canoe trips in the Yukon. 44-1892/784-646; momentumadventure.com. t+l trip pick The Last Degree A combination of flights and serious trekking from Chile to the South Pole . Nov.–Jan. departures; 21 days from USD 80,000.

Quark Expeditions Quark’s ice-class vessels—equipped with not only

helicopters but also biologists, historians, and ornithologists—ply remote polar waters in comfort. This year, Quark launched hot-air balloons on select North Pole trips. quarkexpeditions.com.

t+l trip pick Antarctic Express Fly over the Drake Passage, on the southern tip of South America, then board the 61-cabin Clipper Adventurer to spot glaciers, penguins, and whales (polar camping is optional). Feb. 2013 departures; eight days from USD 7,995.

Wild Frontiers British journalist Jonny Bealby founded the London-based Wild Frontiers, which has multi-sport trips (rafting; trekking; horseback riding) in 40 countries. 44-20/7736-3968; wildfrontiers.co.uk.

view a private Masai dance performance, and camp near the Ngorongoro Crater. Sept.�Dec. departures; 15 days from USD 13,470.

Cox & Kings Founded in 1758, Cox & Kings is one of the world’s longest-running travel companies and has a global portfolio with jungle excursions, culinarily focussed tours, sea voyages—and extraordinary safaris. coxandkingsusa.com.

t+l trip pick Portrait of Kenya Spot Somali ostriches and reticulated giraffes in Samburu National Reserve, balloon over the Masai Mara savanna, and adopt an elephant at the Daphne Sheldrick Elephant Orphanage. July–Oct. departures; 12 days from USD 9,835.

Journeys by Design Founder and environmental scientist Will Jones designs trips to eastern and southern Africa, where he spent 25 years. 1-315/955-6842; journeysbydesign.com.

t+l trip pick See “The Weekend Zoologist,” for a reader-exclusive Zambia trip for bird lovers.

Ker & Downey This community- and conservation-minded outfitter has led tours through Africa, India, and South America for more than 50 years. kerdowney.com.

t+l trip pickPrimates of Africa Come within 15 feet of habituated gorillas in the Republic of the Congo and Rwanda. May–Dec. departures; 17 days from USD 13,195.

Micato Safaris Bespoke safaris in eastern and southern Africa and India with on-the-ground experts. Guide Alan Petersen has led David

river cruise & jungle trekkingExplore Taman Negara, MalaysiaHighlights The jungle at Taman Negara (National Park) is 130 million years old. Indulge in activities like river cruises; jungle trekking; canopy walk; cave exploration; observation hides (simple huts built high above the ground) that allow you to stay overnight to observe animals.The Details Three days from Rs 26,139 per person (ex Delhi) including stay; daily buff et breakfast; airport transfers and sightseeing.

trekkingValley Of FlowersThe Highlights Visit Haridwar, Auli, Ghangaria, Badrinath and the Valley of Flowers National Park. The park starts from Ghangaria but the main valley starts a� er crossing the gorge. Almost 300 species of wild fl owers bloom here in the peak period from mid July to mid-August. The Details Eight days from Rs 29,999 per person (ex Delhi); including stay; entire round trip journey (ex Delhi) by a/c Indigo/Innova; daily meals except only breakfast at Haridwar.91-22/2270-9161; coxandkings.com.

Cox & Kings

t+l trip pick Trekking in the Hindu Kush Cross glaciers, rivers, and pastures as you journey from the Yarkhun River region to the glacier- and river-filled Ishkoman Valley in northern Pakistan. May 11, 2013 , departure ; 17 days from USD 3,713.

Safari Abercrombie & Kent Trips in more than 100 countries with an emphasis on Africa, where well-appointed mobile tented camps ensure that travellers view wildlife in comfort, whether they’re tracking the Great Migration in East Africa or gliding through Botswana’s Okavango Delta in dugout canoes. abercrombiekent.com. t+l trip pick Wings Over the Migration Follow the Great Migration,


traveller type

The Thrill SeekerKeeps his souvenirs where he can see them. That scar on his forehead? From a hang-gliding mishap in Rio . The mark on his knee? Cave diving in Borneo. Likes to start the day with a nice bowl of fear. That’s right: he eats fear for breakfast.



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Last Look

“I’ve always been fascinated by how the environmental conditions and wind around Mui Ne have created this surreal landscape. It’s amazing and incongruous because it feels like you’re looking at Vietnamese vendors in the middle of the

Sahara desert. I took this shot in the morning, when the light was low and gave each dune a diff erent hue. The sky was actually a little cloudy that day, but the blue was still bright enough to make a striking contrast with the yellow-orange of the sand. I think that contrast is what I like most about this picture. I tend to take close-up portraits of people, but I didn’t

have a wide lens mounted when I took this shot, so the eff ect is that the people become part of the landscape, which works in this instance. I lived in Hanoi for six years, so I know Vietnam well, and I love it for its contradictions—how simple

ways of living are mixed so closely with emerging modern luxury. I admire the Vietnamese, they’re tough people. The vendors, who are mostly women, exemplify this. Afternoons on the dunes get scorchingly hot, and when I look at this

photograph I appreciate the beauty even as I feel empathy for the reality it portrays.” ✚

Mui Ne, Vietnam

Photographer Massimo CasalInterviewed by Richard Hermes

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Taj Forever seductive, forever trusted, forever enchanting. In the midst of a city famed for cutting edge technolog y stands the 125-year-old Taj West End. Born of an era that favoured bungalows and one-storey intimacy, it is situated across 20 acres of landscaped gardens. Remade entirely with contemporar y appointments, The Taj West End offers superlative service, the distinctive style of Taj Club and other facilit ies. In its salubrious surroundings are Blue Ginger, the speciality restaurant which introduced exquisite Vietnamese cuisine to India, Blue Bar- the city’s hottest night-spot, and Masala Klub.

For re ser v at ion s a nd c elebr ator y of fer s, plea se v i sit t ajhotel s .c om, ema i l we stend.ba nga lore @ t ajhotel s .c om, c a l l 1.8 0 0.111.825 tol l f re e, or c ont ac t t he hotel d i re c t l y, 91.8 0.6 6 6 0. 56 6 0.

Enchanting. Exhilarating.THE TAJ WEST END, BANGALORE

I n d i a N e w Yo r k B o s t o n S a n F r a n c i s c o L o n d o n C a p e To w n Z a m b i a D u b a i

M a l d i v e s S r i L a n k a L a n g k a w i B h u t a n S y d n e y O p e n i n g S h o r t l y : M a r r a k e c h

RNI No.DELENG/2006/23893

+TORONTOGURGAON

MALDIVESYORKSHIRE

VIETNAMCOSTA RICA

Kuala Lumpur Asia’s Melting Pot Why Flanders is Europe’s Best Kept SecretWhere to Eat, Play, Shop in Sydney

OUR LIST OF 40+ ADVENTURE TRAVEL OUTFITTERS

& SOUTH ASIAINDIA OCTOBER 2012 / 150

MEDIATRANSASIAGROUP


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Documents

Travel Leisure India 2012-10