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The Baltic Guide in English is a tourist newspaper for visitors to Estonia. The newspaper's broad content covers everything from cultural events, to restaurants, shopping, hotels, health and beauty services, maps, news, and much more. The newspaper is published 12 times per year, at the beginning of every month.
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ENGLISH EDITION
The best things to see and
do in Estonia
Medical tourism, local cosmetics, spas, and more!Medical tourism, local cosmetics, spas, and more!
Tallinn nightlife – the best clubs, pubs, and more
Fall fashion – this season’s hottest styles
Estonian restaurants – where to try local cuisine
Health & Beauty Issue
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T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 3 3editorial
The End of Summer Blues
All good things must come to an end, or do
they? Just because the days are getting shorter and a little cooler, doesn’t mean you have to stay indoors. Autumn is perhaps one of the best times to visit Estonia, in particular Tallinn. The massive crowds have died down, meaning no queues. Many things that were closed for the summer months, like the theatre have now reopened for a new season. Did you know that the Estonian opera house Estonia celebrates 100 years this September? Take the time to go and see a performance or two; you won’t be disappointed.
Change is afoot at The Baltic Guide. We’ve spent the summer putting the finishing touches on our newly designed website, and it’s now up and run-ning in English, Finnish, Estonian, and Russian. The new website is easier to use and has all the latest
news about Estonia right there at your fingertips. You can also use our website to book a hotel in Estonia. Rates are reasonable and the booking featu-re is easy to use.
If you’re not following us on Facebook, what are you waiting for? Regular updates means you won’t miss a thing. We’ve also recently joined Twitter too. I’ll let you in on a little secret. All September long we’ll be asking followers on Facebook and Twitter what their favourite thing to do in Estonia is. One lucky winner will receive a year’s subscription to The Baltic Guide.
Happy travels!
Kristina Lupp
Editor-in-chief
3 editorial 5 sightseeing 6 september events
8-9 restaurants 10 only in Estonia
shopping
restaurants
Contents
Your Comments■ We always appreciate your feedback. Tell us your thoughts on our content, layout, things you think we should add -- good or bad. Write to: [email protected]. or send a letter to: THE BALTIC GUIDE Põhja pst. 25, 10415, Tallinn.
S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 3
PORTS B-Terminal, D-Terminal HOTELS Barons Hotel,
Bern Hotel, Braavo Hotel, City Portus Hotel, My City Hotel,
Domina Ilmarine Hotel, Ecoland Hotel, Economi Hotel,
Euroopa Hotel, Go Hotel Schnelli, Imperial Hotel, Kalev Spa
Hotel, Kreutzwald Hotel Tallinn, L'Ermitage Hotel, Meriton
Grand Conference & Spa Hotel, Metropol Hotel, Nordic
Forum Hotel, Old House Hostel, Old Town Maestro Hotel,
Oru Hotel, Palace Hotel, Park Inn Central Tallinn, Radisson
Blu Hotel Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Olümpia, Reval Park
Hotel Tallinn, Savoy Hotel, Scandic St. Barbara Hotel, Sokos
Hotel Viru, St. Olav Hotel, Susi Hotel, Swissotel, Tähetorni
Hotel, Tallink Express Hotel, Tatari 53 Hotel, Telegraaf Hotel,
Ülemiste Hotel, Vana Wiru Hotel, Viimsi Spa Hotel, Von
Stackelberg Hotel Tallinn OTHER TV Tower, Hansabuss
Business Line, Swedish Embassy, Sadama Market,
Stockmann Info, Tallinn Airport, Tallinn Tourist Information,
Citytour Buses, Hansabuss Airport, Merekeskus
Lootsi keskus, Puumedi Group OÜ RESTAURANTS Pirita
Yacht Club, Arizona, Beerhouse, Clazz, Molly Malones, O
Pick up your free copy at: 'Malleys, Odessa Restaurant, Seven Seas Restaurant, Troika
Restaurant, Turg Restaurant, Waynes Coffee PÄRNU Astra Hotel, Legend Hotel, Pärnu Visitor's Centre, Strand
Hotel, Sanatorium Tervis, Tervise Paradiis, TRK Viiking,
Koidulapark Hotel, Pärnu Airport TARTU Dorpat Hotel,
London Hotel, Pallas Hotel, Tartu Visitor's Centre, Tartu
Airport, Turu Linna City Information Point WESTERN ESTONIA Pärnu Yacht Club, Arensburg Boutique Hotel,
Fra Mare Thalasso Spa, Haapsalu Tourist Information,
Hiiumaa Tourist Information, Johan Spa Hotel, Kuressaare
Airport, Kuressaare Tourist Information, Promenaadi Hotel
Haapsalu, Meri Spa Hotel, Rüütli Spa Hotel EASTERN ESTONIA Jõhvi Tourist Information, Meresuu Spa, Narva
Tourist Information, Rakvere Tourist Information, Saka Cliff
Hotel & Spa, Toila Sanatorium, Vihula Manor, Villa Theresa,
Sagadi Manor SWEDEN EAS Stockholm, Estonian House
Göteborg, Estonian Air Stockholm,Tallink Mariehamn,
Tallink Stockholm RIGA Cinnamon Sally Backpackers
Hostel, Friendly Fun Franks Backpackers Hostel, The Blue
Cow Backpackers Hostel, The Naughty Squirrel
Backpackers Hostel
Managing Director: Kirli Lembinen
Editor-in-Chief: Kristina Lupp
Design: Kristi Möls
Photography: Andrei Chertkov
Photo: Andrei Chertkov
Stylist: Ženja Fokin
Make-up: Kristi Petolai
Model: Evelin Lembinen
Clothes: Eesti Käsitöö, KuldanLuxury,
Reserved, Tallinna Kaubamaja
(Michael Kors)
Contact Information
Põhja pst 25, 10415 Tallinn,
tel +372 611 77 60
e-mail: [email protected]
Marketing Manager: Helen Kaur
tel +372 58 502 477
01 LONG NECKS AND PRETTY FEATHERSThe Matsalu Nature Film Festival will transform the small town of Lihula to western Estonia’s cultural capital from the 18-22 September. Top documentary films from the around the world will be screened, and the films’ directors will also be in attendance. Visit the nearby Matsalu National Park and see the cranes and geese meet at the end of September.
02 TARTU BICYCLE MARATHON Mark your calendars for the 15th of September and the Tartu Bicycle Marathon. The 89km trail from Otepää to Elva will take riders over hilly gravel trails. Not feeling so brave? There is also a shorter distance of 40km. Register for the marathon on-line until 13 September.
03 THE NIGHT BELONGS TO DESIGNThe Design Night Festival in Tallinn takes place on Septembers' darkest nights. From 26-29 September design enthu-siasts will fill various locations over the city to parktake in seminars, workshops, fashion shows, and exhibits. For more information see page 6 in this month’s guide.
04 BRAVE HORSES, AND THEIR RIDERSThe Tallinn International Horse Show will take place 4-6 October. Europe’s best riders will be competing for three days at the Saku Suurhall. Every day of the event has something for every horse fan.
05 THE SOUND OF VIOLINSThe Kihnu Violin Festival brings music fans to this tiny island from 5-6 October. Visitors will also get a chance to try the violin under the instruction of professionals. Locals and visitors will be dancing on the last night at the closing party.
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September Highlights
12-13 medical tourism in estonia14-15 fall fashion
17 health & beauty18-19 nightlife
20 museum21 transport
22-26 maps and information
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Pork Schnitzels,Chicken Schnitzels…
Always up to 500g
All dishes prepared by our German chef.
Children’s Menu Available
New German Schnitzel Restaurant in Tallinn’s Old Town.
Free shot of liqueur
when you order a schnitzel.
New location:Rüütli 28/30, Old Town
THE BEST STEAK YOU’VE EVER HAD
PEREOPTIKA Aia 2, Tallinn, WW Passaaz, tel +372 56820045
STOCKOPTIKA Tartu mnt 18, Tallinn (Opposite Stockmann) tel+372 56820044
+/-Optika Tartu mnt 11D, Tallinn (In the Sampo courtyard) tel+372 56820043
SEE THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN EXCELLENT AND ORDINARY LENSES.
DRESS CLOTHES FOR ALL AGES AND SIZES ACROSS FROM STOCKMANN IN TALLINN
-20% -50% -70%
RAEKOJA PLATS 15TEL. +372 627 6245MON–SUN 10–23
WWW.TROIKA.EE
Live music every night!FROM RUSSIA...WITH LOVE
LUMEN DENTAL CLINIC
Viimsi SPA +372 60 11 812 [email protected] www.lumen.ee
A beautiful smile creates new opportunities!
more than 20 years of solid experience in dentistry!
WELCOME TO THE ESTONIAN OPEN
AIR MUSEUM!
An Estonian village in the capital of Estonia
Open daily at 10-20 Buses: 21 and 21B from the Baltijaam train station. City Tour Blue Line from Viru Square.Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn.Ph. +372 654 9100, www.evm.ee.
September 12 - Autumn Farm DaySeptember 15 - Day of Estonian Bread and Autumn FairSeptember 28&29 - Michaelmasvillage shop from the 1930s, farm animals and horse carriage rides, traditional Estonian food served at the inn
T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 3 5sightseeing
TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV
Viewing Platforms
Kohtu Platform - offers one of the best views of the Old Town. The impressive tower of the Niguliste Church seems at arms length. The red tiled roofs with white edges are characteristic of Tallinn. Tallinn B1
Patkul Platform - shows both a view of St Olaf’s Church, and part of the city wall. The church used to be even taller in medieval times and was actually the tallest building in the world in its time. Nowhere else can you see the city wall from a better angle. Tallinn B1
Kiriku Platform - the platform at the end of Kiriku Street faces west and offers a view of splendid and romantic sunsets. Tallinn B1
Raekoja plats
Tallinn’s Old Town was declared a UNES-CO World Heritage Site in 1997. The Town Hall Square (Raekoja plats) is Northern Europe’s best-preserved medieval town hall square and was built at the beginning of the 1400s. Tallinn Old Town H 1-2
Katariina käik
Blink and you might miss this narrow passageway off of Vene. Built in 1246, St. Catherine's Monastery (Püha Katariina klooster) is the oldest building in Tal-linn. This passageway is also known as
the Latin Quarter of Tallinn, and where you can find one of Tallinn’s first Italian restaurants. Tallinn Old Town H 2-3
Raeapteek
The Town Hall Pharmacy (Raeapteek) is one of Europe's oldest pharmacies, which still operates in its original locati-on, in the Town Hall Square. Tallinn Old Town H 1
Toompea Castle
The Tall Hermann Tower (15th century) on the southwest corner of the hill, and the blue, black, and white Estonian flag signify independence and freedom for Estonians. Today, Toompea is the centre of Estonian government and the Rii-gikogu (parliament). Look for the pink building behind the Russian Orthodox Aleksander Nevsky Cathedral. Tallinn B1
Kiek in de Kök
and the Bastion Tunnels
The Kiek in de Kök tower is the entrance to historical underground bastion tun-
nels. In Soviet times they were suppo-sed to serve as bomb shelters and pro-tect the communist elite in case of a war. Kiek in de Kök means, “look into the kitchen” in Low German. Obviously this was one of the main things soldiers spent their time doing while on the lookout for intruders. Kiek in de Kök dates back to the 15th century. The tower is 38 meters tall, and the walls are four meters thick.Komandandi tee 2, Tallinn B1
Paks Margareeta
Fat Margaret (Paks Margareeta) is the most important fortification tower in Tallinn. She was built in the early 1500s. The diameter of the tower is 25 meters and the walls are up to 6.5 meters thick! She was constructed to protect Tallinn from intruders from the sea. Fat Marga-ret is often the main entrance gate and first encounter for visitors to the Old Town in Tallinn if arriving by sea. Pikk 70,Tallinn A2.
KGB Museum
A fascinating museum about Soviet his-tory in Estonia is located on the top floor of the Viru Hotel. The hotel rooms were under KGB surveillance. The rooms were equipped with micropho-nes, and small holes were made in the walls, where cameras could be placed to take pictures of hotel guests.
The museum is only accessible by gui-ded tour. Tours run daily and are held in English, Finnish, Russian, and Estonian. English tours book up quickly so it is advised that you make a reservation. Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2
St Olaf’s Church (Oleviste kirik)
Climb the stairs of the St Olaf Church and you will discover not only the lower town beneath but also the magnificent palaces facing the slopes of Toompea Hill, and the upper town. The old town of Tallinn is divided into a lower and upper part. The lower town was inha-bited by hanseatic traders and the upper town, or Toompea was inhabited by nobility. Lai 50, Tallinn Old Town E2
Hop on, Hop off Bus Tour
■ Pick up the Tallinn
Card (available from
Tourist Information
Kiosks and the A & D
terminals at the port)
for free entrance to
many museums, free
use to Tallinn city tran-
sportation, including
the Hop on, Hop off
bus (don’t forget the
swipe the card), and
further discounts all
around town. www.tallinncard.ee
Kiek in de kök
Town Hall Square
Sometimes you just don’t have enough time to see everything, but on the Tallinn City Tour you just might. Three lines run daily, and best of all, each one passes through the Port of Tallinn, making it even more convenient. The tour operates in ten different languages and is guide by a recorded audio track that follows the sequence of the sights. One ticket is valid for 24 hours. This means that you can travel on all three routes in one day. If you purchase a 24-hour Tallinn Card then your journey on the Tallinn City Tour is free.
PHOTO J. NILSON
PHOTO T. TUUL
PHOTO T. VOLMER
Must-see sights of the Old Town
T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 36 september events
■ Watermelons, Melons, Pumpkins and Grapes from Saare-Tõrvaaugu Market Garden
The well-known gardener and plant-collector Harri Poom will present grapes and Cucurbitaceae species cultivated on his farm. About 60 varieties of grapes and the same amount of Cucurbitaceae will be on display. The famous Dill’s Atlantic Giant Pumpkin, whose giant fruits can weight up to 900 kg, and the Carolina Gross, the breed of watermelon that also offers massive fruits weighting up to 200 kg will be on display. Visitors can admire the white fruits of the Snow Leopard melon, yellow-fruited watermelons and other remarkable products. Visitors are welcome to purchase plants as well.6-8 September - Tallinn Botanic Garden, Kloostrimetsa tee 52
Cooper’s all new theatre of horrors is a gig not to be missed!
■ Historic Anniversary Gala “Once Upon a Time in a Hundred Years…”The opening gala of the festival will take spectators one hundred years back in time. Guests will be arriving in horse carts, ladies will wear lace gloves, and gentlemen top hats. The performance will be a combination of dancing and singing. The gala in the theatre hall will be followed by a banquet in the Estonia Concert Hall. Anniversary celebrations continue until 20 September.September 6 - Estonian National Opera 19.30
TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTOS CONCERT ORGANISER
The Rock-n’-Roll-Hall-of-Famer Alice Cooper (65) needs no intro-duction. His heavy metal hits Poi-son, Hey Stoopid, and School’s Out still play frequently on the radio. Cooper was already famous in the 1960s for his shows using fake blood, guillotines, and the electric chair. His concerts often featured the singer’s head being cut off in various ways.
His latest tour goes by the name of Raise the Dead. It’s been said that this show is by far Cooper’s best. “This tour has a completely new show, which has been perfor-med around the world for a year now,” explains Andreas Platonov, concert organiser.
The young Australian guitarist, Orianthi Panagaris will play toget-her with the band.
Even though the concert will be taking place at the Nokia Con-cert Hall, there is no need to stay in your seats. Platonov says that there is standing room for 700 fans, where there is enough room to dance. Location
Alice Cooper, 9 October, Nokia Concert Hall (Nokia Kontserdimaja), Estonia pst. 9, Tallinn, B2.
ALICE COOPER rises from the dead, againThe shock rock veteran brings his theatre of horrors to Tallinn this autumn.
Tickets are going fast, because Cooper will not be performing in Finland. Tickets are available from Piletilevi sales kiosks, staring from 39. ■
Top Football in TallinnEstonia plays the Netherlands and Turkey in the upcoming FIFA World Cup qualifiers.
TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTO RAIMOND RAADIK
The Estonian football team has had its struggles over the years, but has managed a victory against Andorra, both at home and abroad.
In September Estonia will play Holland, who won against Estonia
in the spring in Amsterdam 3-0. In October they will play Turkey, where the last match ended in a loss of 3-0 for Estonia in Istan-bul. Estonians believe in their home field, and in miracles. The close matches with Northern Ire-land and Slovenia are fresh in the minds of Estonians.
Holland is in the lead by 18 points in the qualifiers; Ukraine is in second place with 11 points. Estonia is second last with 6 points. In August, Estonia was in 85th place.
Matches start at 21.30, and tickets are available from Pileti-levi sales kiosks for 12-20 ■.
Location
Estonia – Holland 6 September Estonia- Turkey 11 OctoberA. Le Coq Arena, Asula 4c, Tallinn.
SEB Tallinn Marathon7-8 September
Participants from over 20 different countries have already registered for this annual run. The course will take runners through the “old” and “new” of this Medieval city. Choose between 42.2km, 21.1 km, or 10km races. All finishers receive a ticket to Helsinki or Stockholm from Tallink.
Light walks in Kadriorg19 September, Kadriorg Park, Roheline aas, J.Poska, Mäekalda, Narva mnt
Light walks in Kadriorg is an annual fes-tival in Kadriorg Park, which signifies the end of the summer season. Best of all, the festival is free! Events will include, fire-works, concerts, Irish dancing, and more!
Design Night Festival 201326-29 September, Various Locations Exhibitions and fashion shows, as well as seminars and workshops, introduce the world of design to the public in this well-established festival, now in its eighth year. Disäiniöö, as it is known in Estonian, showcases not only the work of Estonian designers, but also of designers from Finland, Italy, Belarus, and the UK. This year’s festival will include a food design workshop called "European Grandma's recipes."
Hypocrisy (SWE) 15 September Rock Club Tapper, Pärnu mnt 158g, Tallinn
Hypocrisy came together in 1990 in the small Swedish town of Ludvika when their main songwriter Peter Tägtgren returned to his homeland from the US to set up his own band. Hypocrisy has now diversified from death metal to a more melodic sounds over the years, with Tägtgren now having taken over on the vocals.
Fair, Charity Fair!15 September - Meriton Grand Conference and Spa Hotel, Toompuiestee 27, Tallinn
This year, the Diplomatic, Expat Community & Estonia Society Association celebrates its first year. In honour of this celebration they are orga-nising a charity fair with special guest performers and speakers. All proceeds will go to charity.
■ At-a-glance:
ESTONIA100.EEFOR MORE INFORMATION: WE CORDIALLY INVITE YOU TO PARTICIPATE!
ANNIVERSARY FESTIVITIES
FESTIVAL ESTONIA THEATREAND CONCERT HOUSE 100
ON SEPTEMBER 6–20, 2013
6.09 at 19.30 HISTORIC OPENING GALA OF THE FESTIVAL AND BANQUET7.09 at 10–18 HOUSE FOR THE WHOLE FAMILY 8.09 at 12–17 THEATRE MARKET 9.09 at 14–18 CONCERT OF THE ESTONIAN NATIONAL OPERA 11.09 at 20 THE LAKE OF A HUNDRED SWANS 13.09 at 19 WORLD PREMIERE OF THE OPERA „BUTTERFLY“ BY TÕNU KÕRVITS14.09 at 19 OPERA GALA OF GENERATIONS15.09 at 17 OPERA „BUTTERFLY“ BY TÕNU KÕRVITS15.09 at 20 BALLET GALA „ESTONIAN BALLET 95“ 16.09 at 20 DRIVE IN CINEMA 18.09 at 19 OPERA „LA TRAVIATA“19.09 at 19 BALLET „CINDERELLA“20.09 at 18 MUSICAL „MAN OF LA MANCHA“
Festival "Verdissimo!"Giuseppe Verdi 200
September 25–29
Vana Tallinn Gala25 September / 19:00
Rigoletto 26 September / 19:00
Nabucco27 September / 19:00
La traviata28 September / 19:00
Requiem 29 September / 17:00
Estonian National Opera, Estonia pst 4, 10148 Tallinn, EstoniaInfo: www.opera.eeBooking Mon-Sun 10.00-18.00 +372 683 1210. Box Office open Mon-Sun 11.00-19.00. Tickets available in Classictic.com
BEST VENUES IN TALLINN! WELCOME! FIND OUR RESTAURANTS ON THE TALLINN MAP ON PAGE 47
HEALTHYFRESHDELICIOUS
OPEN SUN-THU 11-23, FRI-SAT 11-24
Foorum Center, Hobujaama 10, TallinnNear the harbour. Ph. +372 6 829 010
Solaris Center, Estonia pst. 9, TallinnNear the National Opera Theatre. Ph. +372 6 285 999
& PIZZAfrom
4,90 €
PASTA
VISIT VAPIANO IN HELSINKI, MIKONKATU 15!
TALLINN HELSINKI STOCKHOLM LONDON WIEN AMSTERDAM BERLIN HAMBURG NEW YORK
25
UP TO THE SKYBRASSERIE & RESTAURANT TELETORN
WWW.TELETORN.EEWWW.FACEBOOK.COM/RESTORAN/TELETORNWWW.FACEB ETORNCEBOOK.COM/RESTORAN/TELETO
RESTAURANT WITH A VIEW
The TV Tower is located 10 min. from the city centre and 4 min. from the Pirita Marina. Kloostrimetsa tee 58A, Tallinn
How to get here: You can take buses 34A, 38, and 49 (stop "Teletorn"), or the City Tour bus. Our premises are handicap accessible.
Parking: The TV Tower parking lot has 5 places for tourist buses and 60 places for cars.
Reservations: +372 58150020. E-mail: [email protected], www.teletorn.eeOpen daily 11-23.
T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 38
Vanaema juures
restaurants■ Café NobleThe new café at the Noblessner port, creatively named Café Noblessner is offering crayfish on their special seafood menu for the month of September. The menu costs 40€, and the café is conveniently located just west of the Seaplane Harbour.
Café Noble, Tööstuse 48, Tallinn.
■ Route 13 Grill Located in the former Tonic nightclub/bar, Route 13 Grill has been open for a few months now. The owners have been getting the menu just right and it’s all set to be launched for September. Look forward to an American style menu with all your pub favourites.
Route 13 Grill, Suur-Karja 13, Tallinn Old
Town I2.
TRADITIONAL ESTONIANFood, just like your Estonian granny used to make.
estonianTEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV
With the weather getting coo-ler, and the days a little shorter, a healthy helping of meat and pota-toes could be just what you’re cra-ving. Here’s a few of Tallinn’s tradi-tional Estonian restaurants where you can get a taste for Estonian cuisine.
Located in the heart of Tallinn’s Old Town, this restaurant lives up to its name: At grandmother’s or Vanaema Juures. You will not miss the giant skillet hanging over the entranceway and the old iron, serving as a door handle.
Vanaema Juures offers tradi-tional Estonian fare, incorpora-ting local ingredients. Dishes are served up just like granny used to plate them –generously por-tioned. Try salt cured salmon, Baltic herring, roasted pork with sauerkraut, or roasted salmon. If you’re a vegetarian, don’t worry,
granny has even prepared mush-room and potato dumplings, served with sour cream and an assortment of salads and stea-med vegetables. For dessert try the pancakes, or ask your server about daily dessert specials.
It doesn’t get more central than a meal at Liisu Juures in the Town Hall Square. Located in a warm and inviting cellar in Tallinn’s Old Town, this is the place to come for good food, and good Estonian hospitality.
Delicious smells come from the kitchen and cheerful Estoni-
an music plays in the background as you enter the room. The menu boasts traditional Estonian food at a reasonable price, considering the restaurant’s prime location.
To start, try the the mush-room salad, with potato and bacon. As a main, the selection of sausages may seem daunting, but the sausages themselves are very small, allowing a proper sampling of three different kinds. Included on the platter were blood sausages, pork sausages, and a lar-ger German style wiener. They are served with a generous portion of sauerkraut and roasted potatoes,
Location
Vanaema juuresRataskaevu 10/12, Tallinn Old Town H1
Liisu JuuresRaekoja plats 13, Tallinn Old Town H1
Kuldse Notsu Kõrts (Golden Piglet Inn)Dunkri 8, Tallinn Old Town H1
■ Modern Estonian Cuisine at MEKKChef Rene Uusmees can often be seen in the MEKK dining room talking to customers. He bases his menus on seasonal ingredients and dishes inspired by Estonian culinary traditions. The chef uses modern cooking techniques to ensure that the meat is cooked tenderly, a luxury that Estonians would not have had 100 years ago. Uusmees takes advantage of the wonderful seasonal produce of Estonia, using root vegetables like
Liisu Juures
as well as lingonberry sauce to go with the blood sausage. Liisu Juu-res also has a good selection of Estonian beers. The mead, which was not too sweet, was a good accompaniment to the selection of sausages.
On a cool autumn night, step into this cosy little inn, in the heart of Tallinn’s Old Town. At Kuldse Notsu Kõrts, be sure to try the sausage feast. And what a feast it is! The platter includes five different kinds of sausages -- blood sausage with sauerkraut, lingonberry sauce and mustard.
Be careful, Estonians may not for the most part enjoy spicy foods, but they do like their mustard hot!
The homemade cheese also comes very highly recommended, however the sausage feast shared between two people is plenty. To drink, try a pint of the house ale. ■
Kuldse Notsu Kõrts
parsnips, beetroot, and Jerusalem artichokes to add colour and diffe-rent textures to the plate.MEKKSuur-Karja 17/19, Tallinn I2.
EATING LIKE A Pickles, dumplings, and garlic bread –
TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV
Pub food often gets forgotten when talking about traditional cuisine. It’s no secret that Esto-nians have had a long love affair with beer, but what are they eating while enjoying a pint?
While partaking in an unof-ficial gastronomic pub-crawl of drinking establishments, certain Estonian pub favourites continue to pop up on the snack/appeti-ser menus. Often described as “õlle kõrvale” or beside your beer you will continue to notice that pelmeenid or dumplings, and garlic bread find their way onto every menu. The dumplings are stuffed with pork and are served
either boiled or fried with sour cream. While not traditional-ly Estonian, these snacks were a Russian import to Estonia during the Soviet period, and a child-hood favourite of many Estonian children born in the 1970s-80s. The garlic bread is not what you think – Estonian black bread is cut into tiny cubes and fried in garlic butter, often served with more garlic sauce. If you’re not too concerned about your breath, these will go down very easily after a few pints.
You may also notice that pick-les or salted cucumbers come ser-ved with honey and sour cream. To the Western palate, this may seem to be a strange combination
T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 3 9restaurants
■ Karl Friedrich & Kohvik MargoThe main tourist destination in Tallinn, the Old Town Square has seen many changes recently. The Karl Friedrich restaurant now has pizza on the menu! Walking from the Old Town Square down towards Olde Hansa, you will noti-ce a new cellar café, Kohvik Margo.
Karl Friedrich, Raekoja plats 5. Tallinn Old Town H1.
Kohvik Margo, Vanaturu kael 10. Tallinn Old Town H2.
■ Buffalo PubBuffalo Pub, just on the edge of the suburb of Mustamäe, about 4.5km from the city centre, is now featuring live music on weekends. The pub, now in its ninth year has a new menu where you won’t find anything over 10€.
Buffalo Pub, Liimi 1, Lilleküla, Tallinn.
Tallinn’s Café CultureTallinn has a true café tradition. It started over 100 years ago
with influences from Germany and Central Europe.
TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV
Pre-war Tallinn was famous for its elegant cafés and names like Stude, Feischner, Kultas and Corso are still in the minds of some of Tallinn’s older residents.
Estonian cakes are divine! Some of the best are made with pressed cottage cheese or fresh whipped cream, meaning they are not too sweet. Enjoy cakes made with fresh Estonian berries as well. Perfect as an afternoon treat with a coffee!
■ Reval Café is chain of coffee shops and has a few locations in the Old Town. Their menu offers light meals, and the display is always filled with appetising cakes and pastries.
■ Located right off the Town Hall Square, Kehrwieder must be one of Tallinn’s cosiest cafés. The low ceilings and the dim lighting add to this ambiance. Delicious cakes are on display, and the cof-fee is some of the best in town.
Location
Reval Café (Old Town locations)Müürivahe 14, Tallinn Old Town I2Vana-Viru 14, Tallinn Old Town H3Vene 1, Tallinn Old Town H2
KehrwiederSaiakang 1, Tallinn Old Town H2
MaiasmokkPikk 16, Tallinn Old Town G2
SaiakangSaiakang 3 Tallinn Old Town H2
NOPKöleri tn 1, Kadriorg, Tallinn
Gourmet CoffeeKoidula 13, Kadriorg, Tallinn
Across the street you can smell the coffee roasting in the Kehr-wieder roastery.
■ Maiasmokk has great pastries and an even better inter-ior. The rooms have been used as a café for almost 200 years! Tables are small like in old time Parisian cafés. The walls are covered with wood and mirrors, originating from its heyday when the place was called Stude.
■ Saiakang is one of the best people watching spots in town. With an entire window as a wall facing onto the narrow Saiakang passage, sip on a coffee while enjoying free WiFi, and watch the people the go by. Pastries and freshly made salads line the display, and hot meals are available to order from the small kitchen.
■ NOP - If you want to get out of the Old Town to see a diffe-rent neighbourhood, take the No. 1 or 3 Kadriorg tram to NOP, a cosy organic café and food shop just off of Narva mnt. The shop sells local and specialty products to take home, and offers a deli-
Reval Café
Saiakang
cious selection of meals to enjoy in the café.
■ The locals say that Gourmet Coffee is the best coffee in town, but we’ll let you be the judge. Cof-fee beans are roasted on site and can be brought home, or enjoy a cup in the café along with meal or a pastry. Located in the Kadriorg area, it’s easy to get there by tram, and you can enjoy a stroll through the beautiful park afterwards.■
NOP in Kadriorg is a cosy café and food shop.
LOCAL– Estonian style.
but go ahead try it; you won’t be disappointed.
Other, not-so-common pub snacks that appear on bar menus are a wide assortment of smoked, salted, or dried fish. Hot smoked fish, often whitefish is a classic accompaniment to beer. Dried fish, like dried sprats are also tasty, but can be very chewy.
What would an Estonian meal be without something of the pork variety? Sliced and pickled tongue can be found on many menus, as well as crispy pig’s ears. The desc-ription doesn’t sound too appe-tising, but the taste certainly is.
Modern Western pub food is slowly creeping onto Tallinn bar menus as well. Chips or wedges are a favourite for soaking up the booze, along with onion rings and different versions of jala-peño poppers. Chicken wings are also appearing on more and more menus, more often baked or smoked, than fried, but still meaty and delicious. ■
Try these and more at:
Vana Villemi PubiTartu mnt. 50 Tallinn B3
Karja KelderVäike-Karja 1, Tallinn Old Town I2
Hell HuntPikk 39, Tallinn Old Town G2
T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 310 only in Estoniaonly in Estonia
Take a look at some of the unique destinations outside of Estonia’s capital.
Don’t forget, there’s a lot to see outside of Tallinn too!
TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV, EAS
CastlesThe main attraction of Saaremaa’s capital Kuressaare is the Episco-pal Castle. This medieval castle with a moat houses the stage of the summer opera festival and many more events throughout the warmer months. The castle is in excellent condition, and the insi-de houses a museum that is well worth a visit. The city of Kuressaa-re celebrates its 450th anniversary this year.
Haapsalu is like something straight out of a fairy-tale: old wooden houses built on narrow streets, overlooking a sparkling sea. Be sure to visit the majestic Haapsalu Episcopal Castle in the centre of town. The White Lady Days are held in honour of Estonia's most famous legend. Under the full moon in August in Haapsalu, through the win-
dow of the Episcopal Chapel the white lady makes her appearance. According to legend, the maiden appears to show the immortality of love.
Rakvere Castle is one of main attractions. Located on the hill just outside of the city centre, the ruins of this medieval castle will entertain both adults and children. There are informative displays on the castle’s history, as well as weapons history. Try your hand at shooting a bow and arrow, or take a tour of the torture chamber.
Narva is the easternmost point of Estonia and EU. The Narva River divides Russia and Estonia, and from the Hermann Castle you can look across the river to Russia and the castle on the other side. Narva was once the “Baroque Pearl of the Baltic Sea,” but during World War II, the city was almost completely
destroyed. Visit Narva for an inte-resting glimpse at Russian Esto-nia, Soviet architecture, one of the best preserved castles in Estonia.
Seto CultureSouth-eastern Estonia is home to the Seto people. Their land today is split between the borders of the neighbouring countries. The Seto people have an Orthodox Christian tradition. Their cus-toms and beliefs are different from the mainstream and one of their recognisable landmarks are the multiple small prayer houses or tsässonad.
Värska is the centre of Seto cul-ture. Here you can find a museum and the Tsäimaja offering tradi-tional food. Seto Kingdom Day takes place on the first Saturday of August in Värska. On that day a king is chosen, as well as the best musicians and the best food and beverage purveyors.
Old Believers & Peipsi LakeIn the 17th century, the Old Belie-vers came to Estonia to avoid Rus-sian persecution. Their religion is an old form of Russian Ortho-doxy and today there about 15,000 Old Believers living in towns around Lake Peipsi. Visit the Old Believer’s museum in Kolkja Vil-lage to learn more about their fas-cinating history and traditions, and be sure to have a meal at the fish and onion restaurant to have a taste of the onions that this area is known for.
IslandsThe fast-paced modern world has yet to reach the islands of Estonia. On the smaller islands, including Hiiumaa, there is the feeling of having gone back 100 years in time. Estonia’s largest island, Saaremaa, is quiet and peaceful compared to Tallinn. Unique nature and preserved
Visit the Old Believers' museum in Kolkja. Hermann Castle in NarvaKihnu Island
folk culture is the specialty of the islands, but don’t worry, modern amenities can be found as well.
Kihnu Island’s culture is a UNESCO world heritage site. Elderly ladies driving motorcycles with sidecars, while wearing tra-ditional folk clothing is a regular sight on Kihnu.
Hiiumaa’s main attraction is the Kõpu lighthouse, built at the beginning of the 16th century. This is one of the world’s oldest working lighthouses. Kihnu, as well as some of the other islands have lighthouses that can be visited by tourists.
Koguva, on the island of Muhu is the best place to see these tra-ditional farmhouses. This village has many thatched roof buildings, including a museum. The many windmills in Angla village on Saa-remaa, is the best place to see these traditional structures, as there are not many left in other places. ■
Lake Peipsi
HIIUMAA
SAAREMAA
Traditional Seto folk costumes
PHOTO TOOMAS TUUL
PHOTO: GRAHAM MITCHELL
Kolkja
Restaurant/PubFörsta stället i Tallinn när man kommer sjövägen och sista när man beger sig till havs!
The first place to come when You arrive and the last place to visit before leaving!
Massor av härliga smakupplevelser!
Taste one of our delicious dishes!Öppet/Open: varje dag/every day 8-19.
Köket öppet från kl/The kitchen open from 8.
Levande musik varje dag/Live music every day 12-15
Sadamarket Shopping Centrum1a vån/1st floor, 100m från A och B-terminalerna/100m from A and B terminals.
Sadama 6/8, Tallinn, tel. +372 661 4605, [email protected],www.seitsemerd.ee
INDIAN RESTAURANT
Open Everyday 11-23Mündi 4 / Pikk 14 (Old Town)
Irish coffee 4€ Vodka 2€
Vana-Tallinn 2.50€ Beer 2.50€
House Wine 2.90€ Appetisers 2€
Grilled Salmon 9.90€ Grilled Duck Fillet 12.90€
Pepper Steak 13.90€ South Indian chicken curry 8€
Just 25 metres from Town Hall Square
Town Hall Square
Mündi
KingaVoorimehe
Dunkri
Kul
lass
epaRaekoja
Vanaturu
Pikk
kael Viru
Vene
Apteegi
Saiakang
Come and enjoy exotic Kerala, Thai and European dishes!
The restaurant's owner is from Kerala in Southern India.Excellent prices
Lennart MeriTallinn AirportTartu AirportFlying is the fastest and most comfortable mode of travel. The airport is the best place to advertise.Promote your business with banners, back-lit windows, show-cases, posters, billboards, internet kiosks, car advertising and other personalised solutions, everywhere in the airport.
Queries: +372 605 8234
T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 312 beauty
Valga Unveils Restored Independence MemorialThe city of Valga, located on the Estonian-Latvian border has restored a statue commemorating the Estonian War of Independence. The statue was originally built in 1925. The two and a half metre soldier holding a flag will face a cemetery where over 300 Estonian soldiers are buried. The statue had been destroyed by Soviet forces on the evening of September 21, 1940.
Estonian-Georgian Cultural Declaration SignedThe Estonian and Georgian ministers of culture, Rein Lang and Mirian Odisharia, signed a bilateral cultural cooperation plan for 2013-2016. It is the first such document to be signed between the two nations. "Georgia is an important partner to us and we wish to further inc-rease cooperation in the area of culture,“ Lang said in a press release. An Estonian-Georgian feature film called "Tangerines“ will debut in autumn.
New Book Release: Mission EstoniaJustin Petrone’s latest book explores love, family, and relationships with parents in 64 essays or short recollec-tions. Better known for his “My Estonia” series, which follows the author’s move from the US to Estonia, Mission Estonia explores life in this northern country through tales of mobile phones, Soviet nostalgia, Facebook and more.
Open Air Museum Soviet Monument CompetitionThe Estonian Open Air Museum is associated with thatched roofs and farm life, but plans to build a kolkhoz-style apartment building will also represent the Soviet era. The museum announced a competition for a monument to the classic Soviet-era construction material, eterniit - an asbestos cement roofing panel.The monument could be made of any material, but should be able to withstand the elements. Winners will produce scale models for display at Telliskivi Creative Hub 20-22 September.
SeptemberNews
■ Dressed to ImpressThe latest addition to the luxury shopping scene in Tallinn is Nude. The shop carries well-known brands like Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana, DSquared2, and Ralph Lauren.Nude, Rävala pst. 4,
Tallinn B2
■ H&M Opens in TallinnThe popular Swedish brand H&M will open their first store in Estonia on the 14th of September in the Rocca al Mare Shopping Centre. The store features the latest and the trendiest fashions for the whole family, all at affordable prices.On opening day, H&M will award 10x100€ gift cards to the first 10 people
in line. The following 300 people in line will receive 15€ gift cards. The Rocca al Mare store opens at 11.00. Don’t be late!
■ Buy LocalLaunched in 2012, and turned into a boutique/workshop in 2013, owners Kristel Kuslapuu ja Aivi Uiboupini aim to bring Baltic designers together under one roof, and promote them world wide. Visit their boutique for a look at locally designed clothing, jewelry, accessories, and shoes.Ateljee No13, Tartu mnt. 80K,
Zelluloosi kvartal, Tallinn
Buses 2, 15 and 54 from the city centre.
TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV
Many travellers often get their appointments out of the way befo-re going on holiday. Hair removal, teeth whitening, cosmetic surgery is all performed pre-vacation, to have you looking your best while abroad. But what if you could
combine these procedures with your vacation, to save you time and money?
In short, you can. Many visi-tors to Estonia are coming simp-ly for these reasons. Cosmetic procedures, dentistry, and opti-cal procedures are much cheaper than in other parts of Europe and
Passport, check. Dentist appointment, check.The Baltic Guide delves into the world of medical tourism in Estonia.
North America, service quality is exceptional, and English is widely spoken throughout Estonia. For example, the number of foreign tourists visiting a dentist while in Estonia has gone up drastically in recent years. Patients will pay three to five times less in Estonia for dental procedures than in the UK, Sweden, France, or Spain. We spoke to one Canadian visitor who had to have a broken filling repla-ced: “I was astonished that at the end of the appointment, where I had x-rays done, as well as a local anaesthetic to replace my filling, the bill came to 35! In Canada, I would pay about 130 just for a simple visit.”
Regular patients come from Scandinavian countries like Swe-den and Finland exactly for this reason. Not only are simple medi-cal procedures less expensive, but also some even say the service is better than at home. A visitor from Sweden said: “I don’t even
Patients come regularly from Scandinavia to visit Estonian dentists.
have a dentist in Stockholm. My dentist is here in Estonia.” Peop-le are even coming from further away for dental procedures. “I had to have dental implants, which in Canada would have cost about 15,000, where as I paid 5000 in Estonia,” explained one Canadian-Estonian visitor.
Dentistry is not the only thing that people are visiting Estonia for. More and more foreign visitors are having cosmetic procedures performed while in Tallinn. Laser hair removal, tattoo removal, and other dermatological procedures are a fraction of the cost in Esto-nia. Prescription eyeglasses are also a common purchase for visi-tors to Estonia. If you don’t have time to wait for your glasses to be finished, many shops will send your glasses to your home.
Aside from cheaper prices, waiting times in Estonian private clinics are almost non-existent. As citizens of the European Union are able to visit doctors wherever they choose, why not visit a doctor in Estonia? ■
English is widely spoken throughout the country. The latest technology is used in Estonia.
T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 3 13beauty
Shopping in Tallinn■ Department StoresStockmann, Liivalaia 53. B3The Tallinn branch of Finland’s favourite department store.
Tallinna Kaubamaja, Gonsiori 2. B2This Estonian department store has been in business since 1960 and is now attached to the Viru Shopping Centre.
■ Central Shopping CentresSolaris, Estonia pst 9. B2One of Tallinn’s newest shopping centres that houses a cinema, numerous restaurants, as well as a top-end supermarket.
Viru Keskus, Viru Väljak 4. B2Twenty years ago the site of this shopping centre was nothing but a parking lot, right beside the Hotell Viru. In 2004, it turned into a modern shopping complex with over 100 stores.
Foorum, Narva mnt 5. B2Almost opposite the Viru Shopping Centre, Foorum houses a promena-de of stylish boutiques.
Rotermanni keskus, Rotermanni 5. A2This modern shopping centre in the newly renovated Rotermanni district houses gourmet food shops, a Scandinavian furniture store, and many international clothing brands.
■ A bit further out
Rocca al Mare, Paldiski mnt 102. Free bus from the port.This massive centre was completed in 1998 and resembles a large mall in North America. It is over 54,000 square metres in size and houses 170 shops – everything from food to fashion, Marks & Spencer to a children’s play world.
Kristiine Keskus, Endla 45. Free bus from the port.A modern mall just outside of the city centre.
Sikupilli Keskus, Tartu mnt 87. Busses 2, 15 and 54 (Sossimägi), Trams 2 and 4 (Lubja).A small shopping centre located near the airport that houses fashion outlets, a few electronics shops, and restaurants.
Mustikas keskus, A.H.Tammsaare tee 116. Trolleys 1, 2 and 3.A shopping centre in the west end of the city.
Järve Keskus, Pärnu mnt 238. Buses 5, 18, 32, 36, 57.This shopping centre has quite a few furniture shops, as well as a store for everything you might need for your sauna.
Ülemiste, Suur-Sõjamäe 4. Buses 2, 7, 15, 65.Located close to the airport, this two-level shopping centre is one of the biggest in Tallinn.
■ Near the port:Lootsi Keskus, Lootsi 8. A3This shopping centre houses a food store, large liquor store, and top brand clothing and shoes can be found as well.
SadaMarket, Kai 5. A2This has the appearance of a market, with many small stalls and shops.
Merekeskus, Mere pst 10. A3The Merekeskus is the oldest shopping centre in the area. The two-level complex houses many clothing stores and souvenir shops.
Norde Centrum, Lootsi 7. A3A medium sized shopping centre with a sports apparel shop, grocery store, and more.
■ Food MarketsBaltijaam (Train Station) – Kopli 1. A1
Keskturg (Central Market) – Keldrimäe 9. C3
Kalaturg (Fish Market) – Kalaranna 1. A2
Lasnamäe Market – Punane 48a
Mustamäe Market – E. Vilde tee 75a
Nõmme Market – Turu plats 8. A2
Sadama Turg – Sadama 25
TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV
■ JOIK is an Estonian natural cosmetics brand. The name JOIK comes from the word “joik“ – the ancient singing style of the Sami people. All JOIK products are hand-made in Estonia, and made with natural ingredients. Their products, like scented candles, hair and body products, and soaps are available at shops and chemists across Estonia.
■ Probably one of the most inte-resting and unusual products that Nurme Seep, or Nurme soap makes is their felted bar of soap. This handmade soap is covered with Saaremaa wool. Since the soap is covered in wool, you can use it up completely. The leftover felted wool can then be used to wash your face.
Nurme Seep also makes bath salts, scented oils, lip balms, body creams, and sun tanning oil.
■ Puhas Loodus is a skin and hair care line under the Orto brand. They make shampoos and con-ditioners, face, hand, and body lotions, as well as soap. What’s lovely about this series is that the scents that are used are all natural. You will find delicate fragrances like chamomile, honey, cucumber, and calendula.
■ Also under the Orto brand is an Estonian-made sunscreen, Solar.
The Solar Sun Creams are made in Estonia and protect your skin from harmful UVA and UVB rays. The Solar range of products has something for every skin type. The
Take the SPA home with you
There is no better souvenir than Estonian-made soaps, cosmetics, or candles.
UVA and UVB filters help protect the skin from sunburns and aid in preventing premature ageing of the skin.
Solar offers sun creams with SPF 4, 6, 8, 15, 25, and 30. Some are waterproof, and one even contains an insect repellent.
Sun milks come in a spray form with SPF 4, 10, and 20 for children. The spray is less messy to apply, and can feel less heavy than a cream.
All products available at vario-us department stores, phar-macies, and handicraft shops across Estonia. ■
You will find natural scents like honey, chamomile, and cucumber. Creams are suitable for every skin type.
T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 314 shopping
Changing ColoursCold weather doesn’t necessarily mean dark colours. This autumn, vibrant fabrics compliment neutral
tones. Classic styles of shoes and boots are reinvented with flashes of colour. To get a peek at this season’s hottest looks, we went shopping with one of our account managers, Gerly, who had a blast
trying on different outfits.
Clarks 99,00€
Clarks 134,00€
Clarks 144,00€
Neosens 194,00€ Neosen
Gabor 199,00€
trying on dif
Clarks 174,00€
Gabor 89,00€
Esprit 74,00€
Esprit 54,00€
Crocs in TallinnEveryone’s favourite comfy shoes can be found in Tallinn too! In recent years Crocs has been expanding their line beyond their original slip-on to include all kinds of other styles for men, women, and children. Our personal favourite – colour-ful rain boots, perfect for autumn.
Kristiine Keskus 2nd floor, Endla 45 TallinnSolaris Keskus Estonia pst. 9, Tallinn B2
T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 3 15shopping
TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV
MOHITO
• Trousers 39,99 €• Blouse 22,99 €• Jacket 49,99 €
• Bag 24,99 €• Bracelet 7,99 €
A jewelled collar adds a touch of class to this simple yellow dress.• Dress 49,99 €• Bag 29,99 €• Shoes 29,99 €
• Blouse 24,99 €• Skirt 34,99 €• Shoes 44,99 €
• Purse 17,99 €• Bracelet 7,99 €
Gold accessories dress this outfit up for a night on the town.
RESERVEDFunky t-shirts and simple accessories are a match made in heaven.• T-shirt 7,99€• Purse 29,99€• Bracelet 5,99€• Jeans, various styles 24,99€ - 34,99€
A casual sweater is dressed up with a bit of sparkle around the collar.• Sweater 24,99€• Shoes 54,99€• Trousers 24,99€• Purse 29,99€
Bring some colour to your day at the office with this beautiful blue suit.
• Blouse 17,99 €• Trousers 37,99 €• Bag 34,99 €
• Boots 47,99 €• Bracelet 5,99 €
Simple lace and ribbon details on this pale pink blouse add a feminine touch to office wear.
Shoes and purses from ABC King.All shops are conveniently located in Viru Keskus, close to the Old Town.Viru Väljak 4/6, Tallinn B2
Where to buy
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T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 3 17beauty
TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV
Finnish visitors to Tallinn may already be familiar with the popu-lar Ihoakatemia Clinic in Helsin-ki. For those that are not, here is a brief introduction. Ihoakate-mia opened in Helsinki in 2008 and is a dermatological and plas-tic surgery clinic. They specialise in aesthetic medical procedures and solutions for a variety of skin problems using the most modern technology and treatments, as well as top quality products.
Chief physician Dr Marge Uibu has had many years of experien-
ce in aesthetic dermatology. She finished medical school in Tartu and then went on to specialise in Dermatology in Finland. She has led many seminars abroad, teach-ing dermatologists in Paris, Lon-don, and Moscow, and regularly attends international conferences.
Dermamed in Tallinn opened earlier this year. All of the emp-loyees at Dermamed have under-gone training at Ihoakatemia in Finland to assure a seamless tran-sition between the two clinics. This means that clients who begin treatment in Finland for example,
The Natural LookDr Marge Uibu talks about the ever-changing face of dermatology.
can continue treatment in Tallinn without a second consultation. “Clients just don’t have the time anymore to take off a week of work after an invasive surgical procedu-re,” explains Dr Uibu. “Most of our procedures are non-invasive and clients can be back at work after a weekend. We appreciate the result of a natural treatment and healthy look.”
Clients visit Dermamed for a variety of reasons. They often want to reduce the signs of aging, pigmentation disorders, the appe-arance of wrinkles, skin laxity, telangiectasia (facial vascular
lesions), rosacea, acne, or have permanent hair removal. Clients must first have a consultation to discuss what outcome they are looking for. “What’s important is that the client feel good about themselves, about their appea-rance,” Dr Uibu explains. “Peop-le don’t want to look as though they have had a procedure done. They want something that looks natural and modern dermatolo-gical procedures have adapted to reflect this.” Each individual skin condition is assessed and the best treatment modality is deci-ded upon, be it with laser, radio-frequency, surgically, or chemi-cally, as no two people are alike. ■
TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS K. MIKKIN, L. MICHELSON
Spas in Estonia are by no means a new phenomenon. The first spa dates back to 1824 in Kuresaare after curative sea mud was found. The popularity of spas continued to grow and other spas offering curative mud treatments were built in Haapsalu, and Narva-Jõe-suu. Today there are hundreds of spas in Estonia, located mainly near the towns of Pärnu, Haap-salu, Kuressaare, Narva-Jõesuu, and Värska, a town known for its mineral rich water. Day spas are found in the larger cities like Tallinn. Medical spas offer doc-tors consultations and wellness spas let you relax. There are even some spas that encourage you to
Relax and Unwindbring your children along for the waterpark and swimming pool, and offer procedures for them too. A spa holiday in Estonia is relaxing and fun for the whole family.
In every Estonian spa hotel you will most likely find saunas, swim-ming facilities, as well as a long list of spa treatments –basically everything you need for a relaxing getaway. Since 2008, a classifica-tion system for Estonian Medical Spas has been put in place to ensu-re standardised quality, and the type of hotel. For example some spa hotels offer only relaxation treatments, but some offer medi-cal treatments as well. Medical spa treatment packages can include a doctor's consultation and thera-peutic treatments.
The first mud treat-ment faci-lities were opened in the 1820s. Local resorts deve-loped quick-ly, especially in Haapsa-lu and Nar-va- Jõ esuu. “Estonia has always been known for its healing mud,” says Aire Tof-fer, manager at the Esto-nian Spa Association. “It is unique. The Russi-an Imperial
Did you know?
■ Each spa in Estonia is different.
Visit www.healthrepublic.ee for a lis-
ting of all of the new spa treatments
and offers.
There are many medical spas all
around Estonia. These are spas that
have received special licensing to
provide outpatient care. This inclu-
des rehabilitation services like mas-
sage therapy and exercise therapy,
as well as dietary consultations. For a
full listing of medical spas in Estonia
visit the Estonian Spa Association
website: www.estonianspas.eu
family visited frequently during the 19th century, and tourists from Finland came in the 1930s for the healing mud in Estonia.”
Estonian healing mud treats rheumatism, improves blood cir-culation, soothes sore muscles, but most importantly, it is rela-xing. Mud treatments were also popular during the Soviet peri-od. In the 1980s, approximately 300,000 tourists visited the resort town of Pärnu, of which 25,000 visited spas.
So how does it work exactly? Freshwater therapeutic mud con-tains hydrogen sulphide, meaning that there is a mild odour of rotten eggs. The treatment is performed usually as a wrap, where you lie down on a table on top of a blan-ket and are then covered in warm mud (41-45 C) and wrapped up. While the mud does not feel par-ticularly hot at first, after a while you begin to sweat. ■
■ Mud treatments are available at the following spas in Estonia:
Fra Mare Thalasso Spa, Ranna tee 2, HaapsaluLaine Spa Hotel, Sadama 9/11, HaapsaluTervis Medical Spa, Seedri 6, PärnuVärska Sanatorium, Väike-Rõsna Village, Värska, Põlva
Location
DermamedMetro Plaza, Viru väljak 2 Tallinn B2
IhoakatemiaMannerheimintie 5C, 6th FloorHelsinki
Dr Marge Uibu and her team at Dermamed in Tallinn.
T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 318 nightlife T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 318
When you've seen all the must-see sights, it's time to discover Tallinn's
colourful nightlife. Tallinn native Maarja-Liisa Mahla tells you about the
best gigs, pubs, clubs, and lounges in town!
Raise Your Glass to Summer’s End
OUTLOUDZEstonian Music
Outloudz are an electro pop band that has gained wide popularity in a very short period of time. Their second single “I wanna meet Bob Dylan” came second at the Estonian Song Contest in 2011, and won third place at the International Song Writing Competition 2011 in the pop category, where it won over 115,000 other contestants. They have won several Estonian music awards and after listening to their calming and emotional album you just can’t stop yourself from humming along.
www.outloudz.com
The summer is over and it means only one thing – it’s time to send it off with a bang. The town is full of young people who are seeking great adventures in Tallinn’s mysterious nightlife. Follow my little guide
to visit the hottest places in town and you’ll have a night to remember!
Many famous artists have taken to the stage at Rock Cafe.
■ SHOOTERSShooters calls itself “the wildest bar in Estonia where people know there’s always a reason to party.” I have to agree with that – it doesn’t matter if you go there on Monday or Friday, you will always have a blast. Shooters specialises in shots. Be sure to keep an eye out for happy hour specials, every day from 17.00 – 23.00. It’s the perfect place to party if you don’t want to pay a cover charge but still want to dance like crazy and have a great time.
Suur-Karja 4, Tallinn Old Town I2
■ ROCK CAFE
Rock Cafe is the biggest rock club in Estonia. It was closed for almost the entire summer and is ready to start the coming season with new energy and many great upco-ming events. The club is located in an old factory building, which means the atmosphere is really different and a bit rebellious. It has the best lighting and sound system, a big stage, and through the years numerous famous artists have taken to it for unforgettable concerts. In September the main focus is on Estonian music. It’s the
perfect opportunity to get acquai-nted with some great local bands.
Tartu mnt 80d, Tallinn C4
■ KOHVIK NOORUSOr Youth Café, as it translates to English, is another shot bar in Tallinn with a different artistic atmosphere and great location. The owners say they opened the bar to keep the youth unspoiled. Well, in my opinion it’s not enti-rely true because the drinks are
cheap and the company is great, setting a pretty high standard for other bars in town. A lot of crea-tivity went into naming the shots; even reading the menu makes you giggle. If you are young or young at heart, then this is a place you have to go!
Lai 10, Tallinn Old Town G1
■ PAAR VEINIPaar Veini is a really popular wine bar among the young, trendy
Kohvik Noorus
locals. The atmosphere is really vintage and not too fancy, as wine bars usually tend to be. It’s a nice place to chill with friends before hitting the clubs or just relax and enjoy good company. The house wine is only 2.50 a glass or 10 for one litre. DJs spin regularly. If you feel like you have a little bohemian soul inside of you that wants to get out, then this place is definitely a must-go! ■
Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town I2
Paar Veini is a casual wine bar, and nice place to meet friends before heading to the club.
Photo: Kaur Ilves
Photo: Andrei Ozdoba
T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 3 19
A few more suggestions for evening (or early morning) entertainment:
SportsClayhillsPikk 13, Tallinn Old Town H1
Drink Baar Väike-Karja 8, Tallinn Old Town I2
Hell HuntPikk 39, Tallinn Old Town G2
Mad Murphy’sMündi 2, Tallinn Old Town H2
Nimeta BaarSuur-Karja 4, Tallinn Old Town I2
Cigar LoungesChicago 1933Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town H3
La Casa del HabanoDunkri 2, Tallinn Old Town H1
Sigari MajaRaekoja plats 16, Tallinn Old Town H2
Estonian Karja KelderVäike-Karja 1, Tallinn Old Town I2
Kochi Ait TavernLootsi 10, Tallinn A3
Kolmas DraakonRaekoja plats 1, Tallinn Old Town H2
Valli BaarMüürivahe 14, Tallinn Old Town H3
Live MusicCafé AmigoViru väljak 4, Tallinn B2
Chicago 1933Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town H3
ClazzVana turg 2, Tallinn Old Town H2
Guitar HuntPärnu mnt 19, Tallinn
NYC Piano BarVana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town I2
Rock CaféTartu mnt 80D, Tallinn
Von KrahlRataskaevu 10/12, Tallinn Old Town H1
GayG-punktPärnu mnt 23, Tallinn
X-baarTatari 1, Tallinn
KaraokeGelsomino KaraokeLai 2, Tallinn Old Town G1
Koskenkorva Karaoke BarRoseni 13, Tallinn A2
The Shamrock Pub Viru 24, Tallinn Old Town H3
NightclubsArena 3Sadama 6, Tallinn A3
The Bank Club 777Tartu mnt 17, Tallinn B3
BibaboVabaduse väljak 10, Tallinn Old Town J1
BonBonMere pst 6E, Tallinn A2
CatHouseViru väljak 4/6, Tallinn B2
Club HollywoodVana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town I2
Club MüntMürivahe 22, Tallinn Old Town I2
Club PrivéHarju 6, Tallinn Old Town I1
Club StudioSauna 1, Tallinn Old Town I2
PanoraamAhtri 10, Tallinn A2
ParlamentAhtri 10, Tallinn A2
ParteiRävala pst 8, Tallinn B2
PlubValli 1, Tallinn Old Town I3
TapperPärnu mnt 158G, Tallinn
TeaterVabaduse väljak 5, Tallinn Old Town J1
VabankHarju 13, Tallinn Old Town J1
VenusVana-Viru 14, Tallinn Old Town H3
nightlife 19
Tallinn NightlifeTallinn Nightlife
THE HOTTEST CLUBS IN THE OLD TOWN!
T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 3
■ CLUB PRIVÉClub Privé is currently one of the hottest spots in Estonian club land. It’s known for its glamoro-us atmosphere and modern inte-rior, where people who love music and fashion come to meet. At the weekends the age limit is 20 and there’s “face control” at the door, so it’s better to leave your bad attitude at home. Every Saturday the most popular R&B, soul and hip-hop party called “Kriim” takes place, which you won’t want to miss!
Harju 6, Tallinn Old Town J1
■ CLUB HOLLYWOODClub Hollywood is one of the oldest nightclubs in Tallinn, now in its 17th year. It has the perfect location at the edge of the Old Town and is located close to all the best pubs and bars in Tal-linn. Every Wednesday is Ladie’s Night (ladies get in for free), spe-cial events are held on Thursdays, Fridays are for hip hop and R&B, and on Saturdays famous DJs spin the best club music. Club Holly-wood is always full of energy and guarantees a proper night out.
Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town I2
■ STUDIOClub Studio has been on the Esto-nian club scene for only 2 years but despite this, it’s one of the most popular nightclubs in Estonia. It has two floors and it’s powered by a Function-1 sound system. The upper floor is devoted more to electronic styles and downstairs you can enjoy Hip-Hop, R&B, and new and old urban. Due to its popularity, it’s always pretty crowded. Book a VIP table with a bottle service, and go and get your groove on! ■
Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town I2
Photo: Jake Ferra
T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 320 museum
TALLINN
■ Museums
Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design (Eesti Tarbekunsti- ja Disainimuuseum)Lai 17, Tallinn Old Town, 1G. www.etdm.ee. We-Su 11 - 18
Estonian History Museum Great Guild Hall (Eesti Ajaloomuuseum) Pikk 17, Tallinn Old Town, G1www.ajaloomuuseum.ee 01.09 - 30.04 Th-Tu 10–18
Estonian History Museum
Maarjamäe Palace Maarjamäe Castle, Pirita tee 56, Tallinn, A5
www.ajaloomuuseum.ee We-Su 10–17
Estonian Maritime Museum (Eesti Meremuuseum) Pikk 70, Tallinn Old Town, D3www.meremuuseum.ee. 01.10-30.04 Tu-Su 10–18
Estonian Museum of Natural History (Eesti Loodusmuuseum)Lai 29a, Tallinn Old Town, F2www.loodusmuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17
Estonian Open Air Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum)Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. www.evm.ee23.04-28.09 Mo-Su 10-20, 29.09-22.04 Mo-Su 10-17
Estonian Theatre and Music Museum (Eesti Teatri- ja muusikamuuseum) Müürivahe 12, Tallinn Old Town, I2www.tmm.ee. We-Sa 10-18
Kiek in de Kök & Bastion PassagesKomandandi tee 2, Tallinn Old Town, J1www.linnamuuseum.ee/kok/1.03-31.10 Tu-Su 10.30-181.11-29.02 Tu-Su 10-17.30
Miia-Milla-Manda Museum (Muuseum Miia-Milla-Manda)L. Koidula 21C, Tallinn B4www.linnamuuseum.ee/miiamillamanda. Tu-Su 12-18
Dominican Monastery Museum (Dominikaanlaste Kloostri museum) Vene 16, Tallinn Old Town, G3www.kloostri.ee. 1.06-30.09 Mon-Sun 11-17 Winter by appointment only.
Museum of Estonian Architecture (Eesti Arhitektuurimuuseum.
Rotermanni soolaladu)Ahtri 2, Tallinn, A2. www.arhitektuurimuuseum.eeWe 12–18, Th 12-20, Fr-Su 11-18
Museum of Puppet Arts NUKU (Nukumuuseum NUKU)Lai 1, Tallinn Old Town, G1. www.nuku.ee. Tu-Su 10-19
Occupation Museum (Okupatsioonimuuseum)Toompea 8, Tallinn Old Town, B1www.okupatsioon.ee. Tu-Su 11 - 18
Photo Museum (Raevangla fotomuuseum)Raekoja 4, Tallinn Old Town, H2. (Located behind Tallinn’s Old Town Square)www.linnamuuseum.ee/fotomuuseum1.03-31.10 Th-Tu 10.30-18, 1.11-29.02 Th-Tu 10-17.30
Tallinn City Museum (Tallinna Linnamuuseum)Vene 17, Tallinn Old Town, G3www.linnamuuseum.ee We – Mo 10.30–17.30
Viru Hotel and KGB Museum (Hotell Viru ja KGB muuseum)Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2http://www.sokoshotels.fi/en/hotels/tallinn/basic-informati-on/hotel-viru-and-kgb-museum/Please contact the hotel to make a booking. Tours available in English, Finnish, and Russian.
■ Art Museums & Galleries
Adamson-Eric Museum (Adamson-Ericu muuseum)Lühike jalg 3, Tallinn Old Town, I1www.adamson-eric.ee We-Su 11–18
MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
Kadrioru Art Museum (Kadrioru kunstimuuseum)Weizenbergi 37, Tallinn, A4. www.kadriorumuuseum.eeJan–Apr: We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17May–June : Th 10–17, We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17
Mikkeli Museum (Mikkeli muuseum)Weizenbergi 28, Tallinn, B4. www.mikkelimuuseum.eeJan–June: We 10–20, Th-Su 10–17July–Dec: Tu, Th-Su 10–17, We 10–20
Kumu Art Museum (Kumu kunstimuuseum)Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, Tallinn, B5www.kumu.eeOct–Apr: We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18May–Sept: Tu 11–18, We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18
Niguliste Museum (Niguliste muuseum)Niguliste 3, Tallinn Old Town, I1www.nigulistemuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17 Ticket office closes 16.30
TARTU
■ Museums
Estonian Literary Museum (Eesti Kirjandusmuuseum)Vanemuise 42, Tartuwww.kirmus.ee. Mo-Th 9 - 17, Fr 9 - 16.30
Estonian National Museum (Eesti Rahva Muuseum)Kuperjanovi 9, Tartu. www.erm.ee. Tu-Su 11 - 18
Estonian Sports Museum (Eesti Spordimuuseum)Rüütli 15, Tartu. www.spordimuuseum.ee. We-Su 11 - 18
KGB Cells Museum (KGB Kongide Muuseum)Riia 15b, Tartu. http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee. Tu-Sa 11- 16
Museum of the 19th Century Citizen of Tartu (19. Saj. Tartu Linnakodaniku Muuseum)Jaani 16, Tartu. http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee. We-Su 10-15
Postal Museum (Postimuuseum)Rüütli 15, Tartuwww.erm.ee/en/visit/postal-museum. We-Su 11- 18
Tartu City Museum (Tartu Linnamuuseum)Narva 23, Tartu. Tu-Sa 11- 18. http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee
Old Observatory (Tähetorn)Lossi 40, TartuTu-Su 10 - 18. http://www.ajaloomuuseum.ut.ee/tahetorn
Tartu Song Festival Museum (Tartu Laulupeomuuseum)Jaama 14, TartuTu-Sa 12 - 18. http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee
Tartu Toy Museum (Tartu Mänguasjamuuseum)Lutsu 8, Tartu www.mm.ee. We – Su 11 – 18
City Hall Museum (Raemuuseum)Raekoda, Tartu (Town Hall Square)http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee/?m=415.09-14.05 Mo 9-18, Tu-Fr 9-17, Sa-Su 10-1415.05 -14-09 Mo-Fr 9-18, Sa-Su 10-17
■ Art Museums & Galleries
Tartu Art Museum (Tartu Kunstimuuseum)Raekoja plats 18, Tartu, http://www.tartmus.eeWe-Sa 12:00 - 18:00, Su 11:00 - 18:00
Tartu Art House (Tartu Kunstimaja)Vanemuise 26, Tartu, www.kunstimaja.eeWe-Mo 12-18
Location
Maiden’s Tower Museum and Café (Neitsitorn muuseum ja kohvik)Lossiplats 11/Lühike jalg 9a, Tallinn Old Town I1
Maiden’s TowerRecently renovated and opened to the public earlier this summer, Neitsitorn is one of the 20 surviving towers of the Old Town’s fortification wall.
TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV
The history of the tower (Meghede torne) dates back to the 1300s. The Maiden’s Tower was erected between 1370-1373 when the wall was built in the Danish King’s Garden. During the Livonian War (1558-1583) the tower was damaged and thus lost its military functions. From 1842-1960 the tower was used as a residence and was even home to one of Estonia’s top architects Karl Burman after World War Two.
In 1981 a café was opened inside the tower and then closed in the 1990s. Follo-wing many years of neglect and its eventual closing, the Maiden’s Town Museum and Café is once again open for business. After two years of renovations and visitors can enjoy a a great café, and one of the best views of Tallinn. The tower is adjacent to the Kiek in de kök tower. ■
Tallinn City Museumwww.linnamuuseum.eeincludes the following branch museums:
Remodelled MUSEUM KIEK IN DE KÖK and BASTION PASSAGES at 2, Komandandi RoadNew! THE MAIDEN TOWER MUSEUM-CAFÉ at Lühike jalg 9a
Exhibition open Mon-Sun 11.30-19.00Café open Mon-Sun 11.30-22.00PHOTO MUSEUM at 4/6 Raekoja Street,CHILDREN’S MUSEUM at 16, Kotzebue StreetHOUSE OF PETER I at 2, Mäekalda StreetMUSEUM MIIA-MILLA-MANDA at 21c, Koidula StreetColourful theme museum for childrenWriters’ museums with authentic interiors:A. H. TAMMSAARE MUSEUM at 12a, Koidula StreetE. VILDE MUSEUM at 3, Roheline Aas
CITY MUSEUM at 17, Vene StreetThe Tallinn City Museum is housed in a medieval merchant’s dwelling in the centre of the Old Town. It got the European Museum Forum’s nomination in 2003.The museum and its café are open: Wed-Mon 10.30 am-6 pm
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TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV
Tallinn has many small galleries, and one could
spend a few days going through them. Here is a
short list of some of the more conveniently loca-
ted galleries, and what’s on display throughout
the month of September.
Applied Art Museum (Tarbekunsti ja Disainimuuseum)Lai 17, Tallinn Old Town B1
Admire the works of Estonian applied art, as well
as some temporary exhibits. This month through
to 15 September: 90 Years of Ceramics; through
to 22 September: Plates.
City Gallery (Linnagalerii)Harju 13, Tallinn Old Town J1
There is always something bold and intriguing
on display in the City Gallery that will certainly
catch your eye. 15-8 August: Carin Lansberg; 12
September - 6 October: Anna-Stina Treumond.
ALTERNATIVE ARTALTERNATIVE ART
Tallinna KunstihooneVabaduse väljak 8, Tallinn Old Town J1
Turn the corner and you’ll find this con-
temporary gallery facing Freedom Square
(Vabaduse väljak). Upcoming exhibits
include: 23 August – 15 September: Enn
Põldroos; 19 September – 13 October:
Skulptuurimasinad (Sculpture Machines)
Draakoni GalleryPikk 18, Tallinn Old Town B2
Appropriately named after the dragons
that decorate the unusual building this gal-
lery is located in, the Dragon Gallery holds
small exhibits and sells art as well.
This month: 26 August- 7 September: Kaia
Kaskila; 9-28 September.
Hobusepea GalleryHobusepea 2, Tallinn Old Town G2
This little gallery is run by the Estonian
Artists’ Union, and is tucked away on
a small street in Tallinn’s Old Town.
Upcoming: 28 August – 9 September:
Young Artists Award winner Holger Loodus;
11-30 September: Manfred Dubov Kalatski. Draakoni Gallery
City Gallery
T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 3 21
Walpurgisnacht Show from GermanyPiruett Gymnastics Club Elite Group
Uku Suviste SongsSmall pony quadrille
Tallinn Grand Prix jumping & FEI World CupFreestyle dressage
Tickets are available from Piletilevi and programme info www.tallinnhorseshow.ee
Saku Suurhall4-6 October 2013
www.balticguide.ee
Read articles online at
While the collections at the KUMU Art Museum are stunning, why not visit a small gallery for a taste of Estonian contemporary art.
T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 322
KOPLI
PELGU-LINN
KALAMAJA
OLD TOWN
MERIMETSA
ROCCA AL MARE
VEERENNI
PORT
SIKUPILLI
LASNAMÄE
PIRITA
KADRIORG
OLD TOWN
PORTA, B terminals
D terminal
AIRPORT
VIRU
BUS STATION
PELGULINN
KOPLI
KADRIORG
PELGU-RANNA
MERIMETSA
VEERENNI
TONDI
ÜLEMISTE
KALAMAJA
SIKUPILLI
Tallinn’s public transport system consists of
trams, buses, and trolleys. All three use the same
ticketing system. Tourists can purchase a ticket
from the driver for 1.60€. Please have exact
change ready. In 2013 a smartcard ticketing
system was introduced. If you plan on using
public transport more than three times, this is
your best option. Smartcards can be purchased
and topped up at R-Kiosks and are transferrable.
The Tallinn Card also allows you to use public
transport for free. Both cards must be validated
by touching them to the orange card reader.
Detailed route plans are displayed at all the
stops, or plan you journey ahead of time on-line
at: http://soiduplaan.tallinn.ee
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
TALLINN CITY TOURTake a tour of Tallinn on the red double-
decker bus. Simultaneous translation in 10
different languages.
Hop On Hop Off - bus tickets valid for 24h
on three different lines.
Red Line - City Centre
Green Line - Pirita
Blue Line - Rocca al Mare
Tour routes last approximately
one hour. All services begin at
Viru Square. Tickets start at 13€.
www.citytour.ee
tram routes
RAILWAYSTATION
transport
P U H E L I N N U M E R O T : P O L I I S I 1 1 0 , P E L A S T U S TO I M I 1 1 2 , AU TO A B I 1 8 8 8 ( 2 4 H ) .
Parking
Emergency Phone Numbers: POLICE 110, EMERGENCY 112, AUTOMOBILE 1888 (24 h)
Parking in Tallinn can be difficult, especially
during working hours. Public parking on city
streets will cost between 1.40-4.60 per hour,
depending on the area. Blue parking signs will
tell you the rate and the paid periods. Some
areas, including the Old Town require you
to be for parking at night. Parking passes
can by purchased from machines or kiosks.
Remember to leave your parking clock (or a
written note) indicating the time when you
first parked.
You don’t need to hire a car to get around the city of
Tallinn, but a car is a great way to see the countryside and
explore small towns. If you are arriving by plane, your
most convenient option is to use one of the many rental
companies at the Tallinn Airport:
Budget – www.budget.ee
Europcar – www.europcar.ee
Hertz – www.hertz.ee
National – www.europcar.ee
Sixt Rent A Car – www.sixt.com
There are many other companies to use in Tallinn, some
which have a car drop-off and pick-up option to your
hotel or holiday apartment. For more information on
driving in Estonia visit www.mnt.ee.
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Easy Car Rent – www.easycarrent.ee
Hansarent – www.hansarent.ee
Sir Autorent – www.sirrent.ee
Yes Rent – www.yesrent.ee
Car Hire
■ Taxis
Tallinn’s taxi rates can vary drastically, so to avoid
being ripped off remember to check the rates dis-
played on the window before getting in. For a full
listing of taxi rates visit: www.taksod.ee
The Tallinn Airport has an agreement with the fol-
lowing taxi companies: Tallinna Takso, Tulika Takso,
and Tallink Takso. A journey from the airport to the
city centre should cost between 7-10€, or slightly
more in heavy traffic.
No international driver’s licence is required
to drive in Estonia, but the following rules
apply to all drivers:
■ Blood alcohol level must be zero.
■ Estonia has no motorways per say. Please
mind intersections and cyclists.
■ The speed limit is most often 50km/h in
towns, but can vary between 30-70km/h
depending on the area. Speed limits will be
posted. Outside of cities and towns the speed
limit is 90km/h and 110km/h on dual car-
riageways.
■ All cars must carry a warning triangle,
wheel chocks, a first aid kit, and fire extin-
guisher. Drivers must wear fluorescent vests
when stopped at night.
■ In case of collision, please call the police.
Insurance documents and driver information
should be exchanged.
■ Please pay parking and speed fines to avoid
penalty.
Driving in Estonia
■ Getting to and from Tallinn
■ BY BUS:Tallinn Central Bus Station (Tallinna Autobussijaam)
Lastekodu 46, Tallinn
www.tpilet.ee, www.peatus.ee
Ecolines – www.ecolines.ee
Hansabuss Business Line – www.businessline.ee
Lux Express – www.luxexpress.eu
Temptrans – www.temptrans.ee
From the bus station to the city: tram no. 2,
bus no. 17, no. 23
■ BY SEA:TO/FROM HELSINKI Eckerö Line - www.eckeroline.ee
Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com
Viking Line - www.vikingline.ee
Linda Line Express - www.lindaline.ee
TO/FROM STOCKHOLMTallink - www.tallinksilja.com
TO/FROM ST. PETERSBURGSt. Peter Line - www.stpeterline.com
From the Port of Tallinn to the city/airport: bus no. 2
■ BY TRAIN:Train Station (Baltijaam)
Toompuistee 37, Tallinn
www.edel.ee
www.gorail.ee
From the train station to the city: tram no. 1, no. 2, or
ten minutes on foot to the Old Town
■ BY AIR:Lennart Meri Tallinn
Airport (Lennujaam)
Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn
www.tallinn-airport.
ee/eng
From the airport to the
city: bus no. 2, no. 90K
FAST CLASS By Copterline – www.copterline.ee
Travel between Tallinn and Helsinki City Centres.
T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 3 23
Harkunnjärvij
OLD TOWN
PIRITA
STROOMI
HARKU
KAKUMÄE
PIKAKARI
Outside of the Old Town
The name Tallinn originates from the Danish occupation (1219–).
1285 Tallinn joins the Hanseatic League.
1346 The Danish sell Tallinn to the German Order. Toompea was divided among princes and bourgeoisie in the upper-town and craftsmen in the lower-town.
1561 Tallinn goes to the Swedish.
1721 The Russians conquer Estonia and Tallinn.
1918 Estonia declares independence and Tallinn becomes its capital.
1939–44 Russians and Germans occupy Tallinn.
1944 The Soviet Army bombs Tallinn in March and causes extensive damage. 1400 people are killed.
1944–1991 Tallinn becomes a Soviet capital
and hosts the sailing competitions of the 1980 Moscow Olympics.
1991 Tallinn becomes the Estonian capital. In 1997, it is declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
2011 Tallinn is the European Capital of Culture along with Turu. Its population is estimated at 411,000: 53% Estonians, 38% Russians, 9% Other.
A quick history of the city of Tallinn
sightseeing in Tallinn
■ OTHER BEACHES AROUND TALLINN
With the onset of summer, locals are flocking to the beach to relax, cool off, and to soak up as much of the energy giving sunlight as possible, given the long and dark winters here. Aside from the main beach at Pirita, the city is blessed with several other public swimming beaches including Stroomi (North Tallinn, Pelguranna 30), Harku (Haabersti - West Tallinn, Paldiski mnt), Kakumäe (Haabersti), and Pikakari (Paljassaare). All have certified lifeguards on duty 9:00–20:00 on weekdays and 9:00-21:00 at weekends. Facilities typically include changing stalls, showers, toilets, sports and play areas, as well as food and drink facilities. These locations can easily be accessed on foot or by bike along the well-kept cycle paths, or take public transport. For something a bit more secluded, hire a car and head outside the city to one of the rural beaches - Laulasmaa, Lohusalu, Salmistu or Kaberneeme.
■ ISLANDS AROUND TALLINN
If you have some free time why not escape Tallinn and visit some of the small islands located near the capital. Prangli Island has preserved its native surroundings that date back to the 13th century. Another ferry takes you to the legendary Naissaar Island (Women's Island), which was a former military base and nature area. Here you can explore the sights, which include artillery stations, a Soviet sea mine factory,
Outside of Tallinn
a working railway, a museum, and church. Located 14 km from Tallinn is the island of Aegna. Aegna is a protected conservation area and also boasts old defence ruins, Estonia's largest densely arranged boulders, an old cemetery, a magical stone maze, walking trails and camping sites.
■ LAHEMAA NATIONAL PARK
Lahemaa National Park, east of Tallinn on the road to Narva, was Estonia’s first and largest national park and is an important site as it provides the visitor with a unique examina-tion of the country’s characteristic landscapes, ranging from stony and sandy beaches, picturesque bogs, pine forests, old-growth forests, cliff forests and rivers cut into the lime-stone cliffs. Aside from these natural wonders, you will discover significant historical and cultural sites like the old fishing village at Käsmu and the remains of Soviet era buildings that dot the coastline of this previously closed area. Architectural treasures can be found in the well-preserved manor houses like those at Palmse, Vihula and Sagadi. The area can be explored by car or bicycle and a vari-ety of accommodation options from camping to manor house hotels are possible, as are day tours from Tallinn.
■ KALAMAJA & KOPLI
Kalamaja (Fish house) is a historic suburb filled with wooden houses and old factories. From the 14th century, Kalamaja has served as Tallinn’s main fishing port and was home to fishermen and fishmongers. When the railroad connected Tallinn with St. Petersburg in 1870 many factories opened. The colourful wooden houses you still see today were built in the 1920s and 1930s to house the growing working population. Kalamaja has seen a revival over the last few years as artists and other bohemian types moved in for the large spaces and cheap rent. Restaurants and cafes began to open, and the area continues to grow as the waterfront continues to be restored.
■ SEAPLANE HARBOUR (LENNUSADAM)
Have you ever seen the hull of a real submarine from below? Or better still, crawled through the narrow living and working quarters of a fully refurbished sub from the 1930s? The submarine Lembit was one of two Estonian submarines built in the UK in the mid 1930s. Another sight is an authentic replica of the Short Admiralty Type 184 seaplane, a British two-seat reconnaissance, bombing, and torpedo carrying folding-wing seaplane used in the Estonian war of Independence in the early 1920s and later for mail services. The museum is located in the former seaplane hangars built during WWI by the Russian tsar. The construction is architecturally unique since it was the largest armoured concrete ceiling in the world at the time of construction.
Küti 17 / Vesilennuki 6, TallinnBy tram: No. 1 or 2 from the city centre to the Linnahall stop. From there, by foot along the Cultural Kilometre trail.
■ PATAREI PRISON (PATAREI VANGLA)
Patarei Prison gives an eerie glimpse into gloomy Soviet era prison life. For a small entrance fee you can take a self-guided tour through the dark halls of this old sea fortress that has served as barracks, and then as a prison during Soviet times.
Kalaranna 2-2aBy tram: No. 1 or 2 from the city centre to the Linnahall stop. From there, by foot along the Cultural Kilometre trail, just before the Seaplane Harbour.
■ KADRIORG
Kadriorg Park is the area that houses the Presidential Palace (Presidendi kantselei) and the Kadriorg Palace (Kadrioru loss), and the KUMU Art Museum. (All located on Weizenbergi). Kadriorg means Catherine’s Valley in Estonian, and dates back to the 18th century. The park and the palace were built by Peter the Great, who apparently helped in its building. As was customary at the time, the main house was named after the wife. There are plenty of other things to see in this beautiful and prestigious park. From the Kadriorg Palace, head straight along the park trail to the Russalka monument, located at the shore of the Gulf of Finland. The famous Song Festival Grounds (Lauluväljak) are only a short walk from the park as well.
■ PIRITA
Pirita is an area located a short distance to the east of the city centre and offers a variety of things to see
and do. Start by visiting the ruins of St Birgitta’s Convent ruins (Pirita klooster) whose colourful history dates back to the 15th century. A stroll through the ruins and the surrounds, including the small cemetery, is a moving reminder of the past. Its proximity to the Pirita River and the beach makes it perfect as part of a day excursion. The 2km long beach can attract up to 30,000 visitors a day and is by far the most popular in Tallinn. Rowing boats, canoes and waterbikes can be hired from near the bridge and provides the opportunity for a relaxing exploration of the river. Also located a short distance from the beach is the city’s Botanical Gardens (Botaanikaaed) and the famous Tallinn TV Tower (Teletorn), which is a must see as it not only provides a number of interactive exhibits but also offers one of the best views of the city and the district. A starting point for information on these can be found at:
St Birgitta’s Convent ruins (Pirita klooster)-Kloostri tee 9, Tallinn
Tallinn TV Tower (Teletorn) - Kloostrimetsa tee 58A, Tallinn
Botanical Gardens (Botaanikaaed) - Kloostrimetsa tee 52, Tallinn
■ ESTONIAN OPEN AIR MUSEUM (EESTI VABAÕHUMUUSEUM)
Visitors can catch a glimpse of the Estonian countryside and village life from the past. The venue has a distinctive rural atmosphere that includes various farm buildings as well as its own church, tavern, and schoolhouse. Several mills, a fire station, fishing net sheds, a dancing area, and a village swing add to the character of the place. Some of the country’s iconic windmills can also be seen. Various demonstrations, displays and interactive activities help bring the past to life and provide visitors with a fun and educational experience.
Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn
PHOTO JAAK NILSON
T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 324
1 January –New Year’s Day
24 February –Independence Day
Easter Good Friday1 May – Spring Holiday;
Pentecost;
23 June – Victory Day;
24 June – Midsummer’s Day;
20 August – Re-independence Day;
24 December – Christmas Eve;
25 December – Christmas Day;
26 December –
Boxing Day
The work day preceding
New Year’s Day,
Independence Day, Victory
Day, and Christmas Day is
reduced by three hours.
2012/2013 School HolidaysChristmas break 22 December, 2012 -
6 January, 2013
Spring break 16-24 March, 2013Summer break 5 June - 31 August, 2013
Holidays
Phone calls
■ There are no city codes in Estonia. Local calls can be made
simply by entering the number as is. Mobile phone numbers
start with 5. Estonia’s country code is +372. Dail 00, then the
country code, and then the phone number to make a call
overseas.
Free Wifi
■ Yes, that’s right, the rumours are true! Almost
everywhere you go in Estonia, you will find free
WiFi access for your mobile devices. Look for
the orange and black WiFi sign, or visit www.
wifi.ee for a listing of all Internet hotspots.
Event and Concert Tickets
■ Tickets to just about any event or concert in Estonia can be purchased on-line
at Piletilevi, Piletimaailm, and Ticketpro. Or, visit their most central locations at:
Piletilevi: Viru Shopping Centre, Viru väljak 4/6, Tallinn B2
Ticketpro: Solaris Shopping Centre, Estonia pst 9, Tallinn B2
Piletimaailm (Eesti konsert): Estonia pst 4, Tallinn B2
Accepted in nearly 100
locations, the Tallinn Card gives
you free entrance and discounts.
Tallinn Card is available at: Tallinn Tourist Information Kiosks,
Kullassepa 4/Niguliste 2, from
A and D terminals at the Port of
Tallinn, as well as in many Tallinn
hotels. www.tallinncard.ee.
AUSTRIA
Vambola 6, 10114 Tallinn
+372 627 8740
BELGIUM
Rataskaevu 2-9, 10123
Tallinn, +372 627 4100
BULGARIA
A. Lauteri 5E, 10114 Tallinn
+372 648 0388
CANADA
Toom-Kooli 13, 10130
Tallinn, +372 627 3311
CZECH REPUBLIC
Lahe 4, 10150 Tallinn
+372 627 4400
DENMARK
Wismari 5, 10136 Tallinn
+372 630 6400
FINLAND
Kohtu 4, 10130
Tallinn, +372 610 3200
FRANCE
Toom-Kuninga 20, 10122
Tallinn, +372 616 1600
GEORGIA
Viru väljak 2, 10111 Tallinn
+372 698 8590
GERMANY
Toom-Kuninga 11, 15048
Tallinn, +372 627 5303
GREECE
Pärnu mnt 12, 10148
Tallinn, +372 640 3560
HUNGARY
Narva mnt 122, 13628
Tallinn, +372 605 1880
ICELAND
Tõnismägi 3A, 10119
Tallinn, +372 640 8711
IRELAND
Vene 2/4, 10140 Tallinn
+372 681 1888
ITALY
Vene 2/4, 10140 Tallinn
+372 627 6160
LATVIA
Tõnismägi 10, 10119
Tallinn, +372 627 7850
LITHUANIA
Uus 15, 10111 Tallinn
+372 631 4030
NETHERLAND
Rahukohtu 4, 10130 Tallinn
Tel. +372 680 5500
NORWAY
Harju 6, 10130 Tallinn
+372 627 1000
POLAND
Suur-Karja 1, 10146 Tallinn
+372 627 8206
PORTUGAL
Kohtu 10, 10130 Tallinn
+372 611 7468
RUSSIA
Pikk 19, 10123 Tallinn
+372 646 4175
SWEDEN
Pikk 28, 10133 Tallinn
+372 640 5600
TURKEY
Narva mnt. 30, 10152
Tallinn, +372 627 2880
UKRAINE
Lahe 6, 10150 Tallinn
+372 601 5815
UNITED KINGDOM
Wismari 6, 10136 Tallinn
+372 667 4700
UNITED STATES
OF AMERICA
Kentmanni 20, 10116 Tallinn
+372 668 8100
EMBASSIES
24 useful information
■ Medical Centres and Pharmacies24H Pharmacy Tõnismägi 5, TallinnTel. +372 644 2282
Mustamäe Medical CentreEhitajate tee 27, TallinnTel.+372 659 8318
Keskhaigla Medical CentreRavi 18, TallinnTel. 1900, +372 622 7070
■ Central Post OfficesKristiine Post Office Endla 45 (Kristiine Shopping Centre), Tallinn
Airport Post OfficeTartu mnt 101, Tallinn
Toompea Post OfficeLossi plats 4, Tallinn Old Town
Old Town Postal StoreViru 20, Tallinn Old Town
T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 3
Tartu
TALLINN
www.visitestonia.com
■ Currency ExchangeDebit and credit cards are widely accepted throughout Estonia, especially VISA and Mastercard. American Express is not as widely accepted.
Currency can be exchanged in banks throughout the country. Major Estonian banks include: LHV, Swedbank, SEB, and Nordea. There is a wide network of ATMs in major cities and smaller towns. Currency can also be exchanged at Eurex, and Tavid.
ESTONIA AT-A-GLANCE
Area: 45,227 km2.
Population: approximately 1,350,000
Capital: Tallinn, population approximately 400,000.
Other cities: Tartu 98,522, Narva 64,057, Pärnu 42,433
Ethnicity: Estonians 68%, Russians 24.8%, Other 6.5%
Language: The official language is Estonian, which belongs to the Finno-Ugric group of languages (Finnish, Hungarian). Russian is the mother tongue of more than 300,000 inhabitants. English is widely spoken throughout the country.
Religion: Approximately 20% of Estonians are non-religious, others Lutheran, Orthodox, Catholic.
Currency: Euro €
Independence: 24 February 1918
Re-independence: 20 August 1991
Weather: Average temperature July 16C, February -9C
Time Zone: GMT +2
Elevation: The highest point in Estonia is Suur Munamägi (318m) located in Võru County.
Islands: 1,521. The largest are Saaremaa, Hiiumaa, and Muhu.
Lakes: Lake Peipsi, located on the border between Russia and Estonia, is Europe’s fourth largest lake (3,555km2).
TOURIST INFORMATION
Tallinn: Niguliste 2/Kullassepa 4, Tallinn
Tartu: Raekoda plats 1A, Tartu
Pärnu: Uus 4, Pärnu
Narva: Peetri plats 3, Narva
Rakvere: Laada 14, Rakvere
Järvamaa: Keskväljak 8, Paide
Räpina: Kooli 1, Räpina
Jõgeva: Suur 3, Jõgeva
Saaremaa: Tallinna 2, Kuressaare
Hiiumaa: Hiiu 1, Kärdla
Haapsalu: Karja 15, Haapsalu
Jõhvi: Rakvere 13A, Jõhvi
Otepää: Tartu mnt 1, Otepää
Valga: Kesk 11, Valga
Viljandi: Vabaduse plats 6, Viljandi
Võru: Jüri 12, Võru
Rapla: Viljandi mnt 4, Rapla
2ND INTERNATIONAL TEDDY BEAR AND DOLL EXHIBITION
12-13 OCTOBER 2013
SAKU SUURHALL
www.artplanet.euPaldiski mnt 104B, Tallinn
-
Sadama
-
Map of Old Town
SEAPLANE HARBOUR
AIRPORT (2km)
KUMU
Tartu mnt
Bus Station
Linda Line terminal
Travel PortTerminal A, B, C
Train Station
Terminal D
Kadriorg park
22˚00'
58˚0
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RAPLAMAA JÄRVAMAA
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PÕLVAMAA
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3020 50 km4010010
©REGIO 2008Riia 24, Tartu 51010tel +372 738 7300
©Regio 2008 KL-8-026
Riigipiir, kontrolljoon
Territoriaalmere piir
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Haldusjaotus on seisuga 01.04. 2007
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DISTANCESMajor Estonian Towns
HAAPSALU175 IKLA347 288 KOIDULA
84 148 335 KUIVASTU 158 221 408 73 KURESSAARE
56 228 403 121 106 KÄRDLA312 349 267 357 431 368 NARVA108 67 253 81 155 161 291 PÄRNU199 235 222 245 318 256 167 178 RAKVERE
9 180 356 90 163 47 321 114 208 ROHUKÜLA99 193 285 144 218 155 211 128 99 108 TALLINN
249 209 100 255 328 305 178 174 123 258 186 TARTU204 131 173 177 250 257 235 96 149 210 159 78 VILJANDI300 227 62 274 347 353 248 192 194 306 253 71 124 VÕRU
EESTI HALDUSJAOTUS
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