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ENGLISH EDITION

The best things to see and

do in Estonia

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Autumn Autumn GourmetGourmet

Exhibit: Race to the End of the World

Explore Viimsi

Top 5 Family Activities in Tallinn

Shopping: Estonian Design

O C T O B E R 2 0 15

Nightlife: Local SecretsNightlife: Local Secrets

CRAZY DAYS7.11.10.2015

Wed-Sun8-22

LIIVALAIA 53 WWW.STOCKMANN.EE

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E O C T O B E R 2 0 1 5 3

3 Editorial

4-5 Restaurants: Tuljak

Grill 250Restaurant News

6 Beauty89 Shopping10 Nightlife 12 Day Trip: Viimsi13 Events1415 Family Fun16-17 Sightseeing 19 Getting Around20 Transport 21-22 Maps and Information

shopping

Your Comments We always appreciate your feedback. Tell us your thoughts on our content, layout, things you think we should add -- good or bad. Write to: kristina@balticguide.ee. or send a letter to: THE BALTIC GUIDE Phja pst. 25, 10415, Tallinn.

O C T O B E R 2 0 1 5

PORTS B-Terminal, D-Terminal, M/L Liverpool Seaways Paldiski-Kapellskr-Paldiski HOTELS Barons Hotel, Bern Hotel, Braavo Hotel, City Portus Hotel, My City Hotel, Domina Ilmarine Hotel, Ecoland Hotel, Economi Hotel, Euroopa Hotel, Go Hotel Schnelli, Imperial Hotel, Kalev Spa Hotel, Kreutzwald Hotel Tallinn, L'Ermitage Hotel, Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel, Metropol Hotel, Nordic Forum Hotel, Old House Hostel, Old Town Maestro Hotel, Oru Hotel, Palace Hotel, Park Inn Central Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Olmpia, Reval Park Hotel Tallinn, Savoy Hotel, Scandic St. Barbara Hotel, Sokos Hotel Viru, St. Olav Hotel, Susi Hotel, Swissotel, Thetorni Hotel, Tallink Express Hotel, Tatari 53 Hotel, Telegraaf Hotel, lemiste Hotel, Vana Wiru Hotel, Viimsi Spa Hotel, Von Stackelberg Hotel Tallinn OTHER TV Tower, Hansabuss Business Line, Swedish Embassy, Sadama Market, Stockmann Info, Tallinn Airport, Estonian Air Europe-Tallinn routes, Tallinn Tourist Information, Citytour Buses, Hansabuss Airport, Merekeskus, Lootsi keskus, Puumedi Group O RESTAURANTS Pirita Yacht Club,

Pick up your free copy at: Arizona, Beerhouse, Clazz, Molly Malones, O 'Malleys, Odessa Restaurant, Seitse Merd Restaurant, Troika Restaurant, Turg Restaurant, Waynes Coffee PRNU Astra Hotel, Legend Hotel, Prnu Visitor's Centre, Strand Hotel, Sanatorium Tervis, Tervise Paradiis, TRK Viiking, Koidulapark Hotel, Prnu Airport TARTU Dorpat Hotel, London Hotel, Pallas Hotel, Tartu Visitor's Centre, Tartu Airport, Turu Linna City Information Point WESTERN ESTONIA Prnu Yacht Club, Arensburg Boutique Hotel, Fra Mare Thalasso Spa, Haapsalu Tourist Information, Hiiumaa Tourist Information, Johan Spa Hotel, Kuressaare Airport, Kuressaare Tourist Information, Promenaadi Hotel Haapsalu, Meri Spa Hotel, Rtli Spa Hotel EASTERN ESTONIA Jhvi Tourist Information, Meresuu Spa, Narva Tourist Information, Rakvere Tourist Information, Saka Cliff Hotel & Spa, Toila Sanatorium, Vihula Manor, Villa Theresa, Sagadi Manor SWEDEN EAS Stockholm, Estonian House Gteborg, Estonian Air Stockholm,Tallink Mariehamn, Tallink Stockholm RIGA Cinnamon Sally Backpackers Hostel, Friendly Fun Franks Backpackers Hostel, The Blue Cow Backpackers Hostel, The Naughty Squirrel Backpackers Hostel

Managing Director: Kirli LembinenEditor-in-Chief: Kristina Lupp

kristina@balticguide.eeContributors: Stuart Garlick

Design: Evelin LinholmPhotography: Andrei ChertkovPrinting House: AS Kroonpress

Contact InformationPhja pst 25, 10415 Tallinn,

tel +372 611 77 60e-mail: balticguide@balticguide.ee

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Eating October

F ood culture comes in all shapes and sizes and in Estonia its no different. IIn the four years that I have lived here, I have seen dozens of new restaurants open (and close sometimes), as well as the birth of many great culinary events and festivals. It seems that Estonia just cant get enough! Take for example the annual street food festival that takes place at Telliskivi Creative City. Now in its second year, the festival has had to add a second day, just to accommodate the crowds. Restaurant weeks have gained in popularity and have spread out over the country to Tallinn, Prnu, and Tartu. And lets not forget the tens of smaller harvest events that take place in late summer around Estonia. Thats not all, September was also the first ever Estonian Food Month, where

Estonian food culture was not only celebrated through-out the country, but also in restaurants.

October is a great month to visit Estonia, not only for the food, but for many other reasons. Theatre season is in full swing, with some great performances at the symphony and opera. Check out some of the new art and museum exhibitions including the fascinating Race to the End of the World, on now at the Seaplane Harbour. The Ants Laikmaa exhibit, Vigala and Capri on display at KUMU is also a worth a visit. And dont forget to book your places at one of the many restaurants taking part in Tallinn Restaurant Week at the beginning of November.

Bon appetit and happy travels!

Kristina LuppEditor-in-chief

Contents

editorial

October Highlights01 LEGENDARY SAXOPHONIST IN TALLINNNorwegian Jan Gabarek is regarded as a living legend of jazz. Gabarek is per-forming on October 19 at the Nordea Concert Hall, along with pianist Rainer Brninghaus, bass player Yuri Daniel and drummer Triluk Gurtug. Concert tickets can be purchased at Piletilevi.02 RUSSIAN THEATER GEMSKuldne Mask festival theater brings contemporary Russian theater to Tallinn. This includes the musical Chaplin at the Estonia Theatre on October 12 and 13 and at the Onegin Russian Theater on October 16 and 17.

03 NIGHT FLYERSThe Estonian Museum of Natural History exhibition Night Flyers takes you into the mysterious world of owls and moths. At the museum you can find out how far an owl can turn his head. The exhibition is open in the Old Town, on Lai 29 until October 25.04 GUITAR VIRTUOSOS FESTIVALOver 20 guitarists from six different countries including Ralph Towner from USA, Adrian Legg from UK and Vaiko Eplik from Estonia will be taking part at the Viljandi Guitar Festival 13-17 October. Guitar music can be enjoyed at the Viljandi Primusmuusika granary, the old water tower, and St. Johns Church.05 KARLSSON ON-THE-ROOFAstrid Lindgrens beloved fictional book character Karlsson On-The-Roof is a new childrens musical that premieres at the Estonia on 6 November and will run throughout the winter. Tickets should be bought well in advance at Piletimaailm or through Piletilevi.

restaurants

Photo: Andrei ChertkovModel: Marilin Kaareste

Style: enja FokinMake-up: Oriflame

Clothes: GantThanks to: Schlssle hotel

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T H E B A L T I C G U I D E O C T O B E R 2 0 1 54 restaurants

A tiny taste of Belgium has come to Tallinn, in the form of De Vos, a bakery, confectionary and restaurant. All pastries are made from organic Estonian grain. Most of the flour is ground using a stone mill. The bakery is open on weekdays from 7.30, an hour later on Saturday and Sunday from 10.

Tallinns restaurant culture was on the agenda again in Turu 09.30 -4.10 at the Food & Fun Market event and was attended by the chef Ranno Paukson of restaurant as well as Bartender Agu Koit.

TRW 2015 or Tallinns restau-rant week will take place again from November 1-7. The event takes part in dozens of restaurants offering lunches and dinners at special prices. For more infor-mation you can find addresses and make bookings at www.tal-linnrestaurantweek.ee. Bookings are a must.

The Savoy Boutique Hotel won the Travel Oscar from the World Travel Awards in recognition for being the best Estonian boutique Hotel for the third year in a row. The hotels restaurant, Mekk specialises in modern Estonian cuisine.

In early November, the Vihula Manor is hosting a northern European week. This years theme is Denmark. The hotels current owner is not only Danish, but Danes have a history in Estonia that dates back to the 1100s. Jesper Brinklv, a well known chef from Denmark will be in attendance. During the week, you can also see Sren Kents paintings and ceramics.

LocationDe Vos Bakery and Resto, Narva mnt 6, Tallinn A3.Savoy Boutique Hotel, Suur-Karja 17/19, Tallinn Old Town I2.Vihula Manor, Vihula, Lne-Virumaa.

RESTAURANT NEWS

DeVos Bakery & Resto

Mekk specialises in modern Estonian cuisine.

TEXT MIKKO SAVIKKO,

PHOTOS ANDREI

CHERTKOV

Lunch at Grill 250 includes a salad bar, soup, hot dishes and assorted breads. The lunch buffet is great for both individuals and groups. Even vege-tarians can easily prepare nutritious lunches. The freshly baked white bread and rolls are also included in the lunch.

Meat, fish, and vegetarian options are complemented by the cake selection that is made fresh in the restaurant. You can have as many desserts as you like, if you still have room after all the previous choices. If you enjoy a long lunch, the restau-rant is open on weekdays from 12-15.

The name of the restaurant already indicates that beef will be cooked to the right temperature. Portions are sufficiently large. The most popular 300-gram sirloin is a decent portion. You can watch the barbeque masters at work from the dining room.

For those less hungry, the menu includes freshly made beef burgers, pizza, fish, and poultry options.

If you love beer, recommen-dations are made to go along with your food and half-metre garlic sausages can be shared with a friend. This includes an appetizer from the buffet table. There is truly something for everyone. Grill 250 offers half price Saku Gold draught and Kiss Pear cider daily from

7pm.

Location?Grill 250

Paldiski mnt 4, Tallinn B2.

Open weekdays 12-23, weekends

13-23.

Grilled Meat and Business Meetings

Grill 250 started the autumn season with buffet lunches for business people.

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beef burgers, pizza, fish, and poultry options.

If you love beer, recommen-dations are made to go along with your food and half-metre garlic sausages can be shared with a friend. This includes an appetizer from the buffet table. There is truly something for everyone. Grill 250 offers half price Saku Gold draught and Kiss Pear cider daily from

7pm.

Location?Grill 250

Paldiski mnt 4, Tallinn B2.

Open weekdays 12-23, weekends

13-23.

-----------------------Grilled food : 12.00 to 25.00Buffet-style business lunch: 16.00 -----------------------IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII

grill

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E O C T O B E R 2 0 1 5 5restaurants

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Tuljak was once a popular caf during the Soviet period and now the same guys behind NOA and OKO reopened the Tallinn institution this past summer. Its no wonder the place was an overnight success, its got one of the best terraces in the city overlooking the water. We visited on a cool night in September, and while the terrace is now closed, the restaurant showed no signs of slowing down for the winter season.

Its a bit tricky to find your way to Tuljak if youve never been there before. It sits atop a small hill and you actually have to go around the side to find the entrance. Hint, its not the first door you see, thats the kitchen. The restaurant offers a beautiful panorama over the bay and a view of the Old Town in the distance. The sun sets through the windows and lights up the room.

The menu is divided into three parts: snacks, appetisers, mains,

and desserts. We tried the salt-ed mackerel to start with rad-ish, onion, and soy mirin sauce. The dish was a bit of an Asia-meets-Eastern Europe fusion that worked - with each bite of the salted mackerel one expects pickled cucumbers on the side, but the soy mirin sauce was a pleasant combination. Next, if youre looking for a fancy schnit-zel, this is the place to come. The veal schnitzel ROS was served with apple pure, horseradish, and stump mushroom salad. Crispy on the outside and soft on the inside, this is a dish we would come back for. Save room for dessert and try the Tuljak tira-misu with blueberries.

LocationTuljak RestoranPirita tee 26e, Tallinn 5A

Whats Old is New

After a great summer, Tuljaks success continues on into autumn.

bistro

-----------------------Appetisers 6 15Mains 18 24Desserts

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T H E B A L T I C G U I D E O C T O B E R 2 0 1 56 beauty

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Youve probably heard of proced-ures like mesotherapy, ultrasound, and microdermabrasion, maybe youve even tried them. All of these procedures and more are available at some of the many beauty salons you will find throughout the city. Prices in Tallinn are much lower than in places like London and Helsinki. Take for example the no-needle mesotherapy: in Tallinn the procedure at Tiia Ilusalong costs 52, whereas in London prices start at 60. Heres a quick overview of some of the most popular procedures.

No-needle mesotherapyThis is perhaps one of the most popular treatments out there because it offers the same great results as traditional mesotherapy, but without the pain. Instead, it uses electric pulses that deliver ingredients like hyaluronic acid, collagen and elastin to the mesoderm or middle layer of the skin. This deeply hydrates and plumps up the skin. The best

part, you can get on with your day straight away. Tiia Piirisild, manager at Tiia Ilusalong, recommends 4-6 treatments for the best results. MesotherapyTraditional mesotherapy uses a needle to do the exact same as mentioned above, though with a little bit of pain and possibly with slightly faster and better results. The needles used are very short and thin. Its particularly effective in treating cellulite, but can also be used on the face. With this option, you will need to rest afterwards and give the treated area time to heal. UltrasoundUltrasound is now used for a lot more than just seeing into the womb. Its another non-invasive treatment used to lift the skin (in particular the eyebrow, neck, and under the chin, as well as lines and wrinkles in the chest area) and promote collagen production by targeting deep tissue layers (5mm deep) to make sure the treatment goes where its needed. Once

again, there is no recovery time needed, so you can get right on with your day. One treatment is usually enough, but it depends on the skin type. Sometimes one might need up to three treatments to see the desired effect.

MicrodermabrasionWhile this might sound painful, its actually quite gentle. It exfoliates the outer layer of dead skin cells, vacuuming them away as it goes along, leaving your skin feeling softer and smoother, and ultimately more vibrant after about 6-10 treatments. The machine uses crystals or diamonds to exfoliate through a handheld wand that creates a vacuum when it touches the skin. Recovery time is 1-2 days, as your skin may be a little pink afterwards. Its a good treatment option for those with mild acne and superficial scars. LocationTiia IlusalongMelon Centre 3rd FloorEstonia pst 1/3, Tallinnwww.tiiakosmetika.ee

What to Know Before You GoProfessional service and great prices are just two reasons why you should

come to Tallinn for your beauty treatments.

No-needle mesotherapy at Tiia Ilusalong.

No-needle mesotherapy uses electric pulses that deliver ingredients like hya-luronic acid, collagen and elastin to the mesoderm or middle layer of the skin.

St. Patrickin Old Town: Suur-Karja 8

in City: Narva mnt 5on the beach: Merivlja tee 5

www.balticguide.ee

Read articles online:

Raua street 2, Tallinn 10124Ph: (+372) 53 028 404e-mail: muuseum@rescue.eewww.tuletorjemuuseum.ee

Open Monday Thursday 9:00 17:00Friday 9:00 15:30

ESTONIAN FIREFIGHTING MUSEUM

8 Department StoresStockmann, Liivalaia 53. B3.The Tallinn branch of Finlands favourite department store.

Tallinna Kaubamaja, Gonsiori 2. B2.This Estonian department store has been in business since 1960 and is now attached to the Viru Shopping Centre.

Central Shopping Centres

Foorum, Narva mnt 5. B2.Almost opposite the Viru Shopping Centre, Foorum houses a promen-ade of stylish boutiques.

Postimaja Shopping Centre, Narva mnt 1. B2.The newest shopping centre in Tallinn houses an H&M.

Rotermanni keskus, Rotermanni 8. B2.This modern shopping centre in the Rotermanni district houses gourmet food shops, a Scandinavian furniture store, and many international clothing brands.

Solaris, Estonia pst 9. B2.One of Tallinns newer shopping centres that houses a cinema, numerous restaurants, as well as a top-end supermarket.

Viru Keskus, Viru Vljak 4. B2.This modern shopping centre houses top name designer stores, great cafs and restaurants, as well as a large bookstore.

A bit further outJrve Keskus, Prnu mnt 238. Buses 5, 18, 32, 36, 57.This shopping centre has quite a few furniture shops, as well as a store for everything you might need for your sauna.

Kristiine Keskus, Endla 45. Free bus from the port.A modern mall just outside of the city centre.

Mustikas keskus, A.H.Tammsaare tee 116. Trolleys 1, 2 and 3.A shopping centre in the west end of the city.

Rocca al Mare, Paldiski mnt 102. Free bus from the port.This massive centre was completed in 1998 and resembles a large mall in North America. It is over 54,000 square metres in size and houses 170 shops everything from food to fashion, Marks & Spencer to a childrens play world.

Sikupilli Keskus, Tartu mnt 87. Busses 2, 15 and 54 (Sossimgi), Trams 2 and 4 (Lubja).A small shopping centre located near the airport that houses fashion outlets, a few electronics shops, and restaurants.

lemiste, Suur-Sjame 4. Buses 2, 7, 15, 65.Located close to the airport, this two-level shopping centre is one of the biggest in Tallinn.

Magistrali Keskus,Spruse puiestee 201/203, Tallinn

Near the port:Lootsi Keskus, Lootsi 8. A3This shopping centre houses a food store, large liquor store, and top brand clothing and shoe stores.

Merekeskus, Mere pst 10. A3.The Merekeskus is the oldest shopping centre in the area. The two-level complex houses many clothing stores and souvenir shops.

Norde Centrum, Lootsi 7. A3.A medium sized shopping centre with a sports apparel shop, grocery store, and more.

SadaMarket, Kai 5. A2This has the appearance of a market, with many small stalls and shops.

Food MarketsBaltijaam (Train Station) Kopli 1. A1.

Keskturg (Central Market) Keldrime 9. B3.

Kalaturg (Fish Market) Kalaranna 1. A2.

Lasname Market Punane 48a.

Mustame Market E. Vilde tee 75a.

Nmme Market Turu plats 8.

Sadama Turg Sadama 25. A2.

shop

Est September celebrated

festival. We know something local. Heres

loom Face Blanket, 30, Nu Nordik

Urmas Ls Sgisball Brooch, 22, Nu NordikAnu Kaelussoo Mustikas (Blueberry), 28, Nu Nordik

Elina Mrsepp Hats, 28, Nu Nordik

Oreflector Reflective Badge, 5.50, N Nordik

Eco Tree Necklace 85, Earrings, 65 (Coloured copper and silver), Tali

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E O C T O B E R 2 0 1 5 9pping

Looking for something more traditional? Heres a list of where to buy Estonian handicraft and other gifts and souvenirs: Estonian Handicraft House

Pikk 22, Tallinn Old Town Eesti Esindus

Viru 3, Tallinn Old Town H Eesti Asi

Aia 1 / Viru 23, Tallinn Old Town Katariina Guild

Vene 12 / Katariina kik, Tallinn Old Town

KrambudeVana-turg 1, Tallinn Old Town

Oma AsiSaiakang 1, Tallinn Old Town

Saaremaa SepadNunne 7, Tallinn Old Town

Sepa riOlevimgi 7, Tallinn Old Town

WillmarViru 23, Tallinn Old Town

More souvenirs

tonian Design the best and brightest of Estonian design during the 10th annual Design Night youre looking for something a little different, and what better souvenir than a look at some of the latest designs from some of Estonias talented designers.

3D Printer Necklace, Mihkel Kaarma, 46, Les Petites

Keiu Koppel Computer Chip Brooch, Brass/Silver 56, Les Petites

Mokoko Leather Wallets 40.

Les Petites

Luik Concrete/Steel Earrings, 17 Les Petites

Jonurm Long Vest, 210, Tali

Maria Rsta Design Clock, 40, Tali

Ester Faiman Earrings, 145-150, Tali

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Streetwear by Kirju, Necklace, 20, Tali

of Estonias talented designers.

KeiuLes P

MokokoWal

Tartuensis Notebook 8, Les Petites

Where to buyTALIVoorimehe 4, Tallinn Old TownKotzebue 33, TallinnLes PetitesTelliskivi 60A, TallinnNu NordikVabaduse Vljak 8, Tallinn Old Town

Mar

8, Les Petiiiiiiiiiiiiiitettttttttttttt s

WhTALVooKotzLes TellisNu NVaba

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E O C T O B E R 2 0 1 510

Prgu Rtli 4, Tallinn Old Town I1Prgu means purgatory, but dont be put off; its much closer to hea-ven than hell. Its a secluded bar set into what looks like a trading house in the Old Town. Its hard to find, but once you get there, youre in for a treat. The cavernous bar, which is accessible through an old wooden door and up a flight of stairs, allows you to drink with your friends while feeling a part of the history of Tallinn. Nestling in quiet Rtli street, this is a bar which only knowledgeable peop-le frequent - and thats where you come in.

The drinks offered include a generous number of Estonian and international beers, while also hav-ing a menu full of traditional treats, alongside some international fla-vours such as the cheesy, breaded jalapeno peppers! The atmosphere, in spite of its location, is always live-ly, and Prgu is an excellent place to start a night out, especially if you want to experience the real Estonia.

Prgu comes recommended for its easy charm, its unfussy inter-

ior, and the feeling you get of the place being your own little secret. The lack of a reliable phone signal when youre under all that stone is also a hidden advantage; it means that you will find it much easier to make conversation with the person you came in with.

Karja Kelder Vaike-Karja 1, Tallinn Old Town I2For a similar experience to Prgu, but situated in a more central spot, Karja Kelder is a great option. All the beers you could have hoped for are there, but there is, in my opin-ion, a slightly better food menu at this bar. Alongside the occasional

western option are a series of tasty Estonian treats that should fill you up without leaving a hole burning in your pocket.

Located down, rather than up, a series of stone steps, Karja Kelder also gives an otherworldly feel, as if you have travelled back in time - an illusion only broken by the music playing in the bar, and the regularly-used betting machine by the door. However, distractions are limited, and this is a fine bar for spending time chatting, with the acoustics excellent in every part of the room.

The clientele, due to Karja Kelders location close to the usual tourist trap of Nimeta and Shooters, is more mixed than in Prgu, with foreigners and Eston-ians sharing the space on most nights. You can be sure that youll be more than welcome here, and youll want to stay once you arrive.

Kolm Lvi Kopli 14, Tallinn A1From quiet, considered, Estoni-an bars, to the place where the strange magic happens. When you step into Kolm Lvi, its like the

nightlife

A few more suggestions for evening (or early morning) entertainment:

Bars & PubsClayhillsPikk 13, Tallinn Old Town H1.

Drink Baar Vike-Karja 8, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Hell HuntPikk 39, Tallinn Old Town G2.

Mad MurphysMndi 2, Tallinn Old Town H2.

Nimeta BaarSuur-Karja 4, Tallinn Old Town I2.

ProtestMere pst 6a, Tallinn A2.

PrguRtli 4, Tallinn Old Town I1.

The HighlanderKuninga 1, Tallinn Old Town H2.

Cigar LoungesChicago 1933Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town H3.

La Casa del HabanoDunkri 2, Tallinn Old Town H1.

Sigari MajaRaekoja plats 16, Tallinn Old Town H2.

Estonian Karja KelderVike-Karja 1, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Kochi Ait TavernLootsi 10, Tallinn A3.

Kolmas DraakonRaekoja plats 1, Tallinn Old Town H2.

Seiklusjutte Maalt ja MereltTartu mnt 44, Tallinn B3.

Valli BaarMrivahe 14, Tallinn Old Town H3.

Live MusicCaf AmigoViru vljak 4, Tallinn B2.

Chicago 1933Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town H3.

ClazzVana turg 2, Tallinn Old Town H2.

NYC Piano BarVana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Rock CafTartu mnt 80D, Tallinn C4.

TapperPrnu mnt 158g, Tallinn

Cubanita Live CafeNarva mnt. 5, Tallinn A2.

GayG-punktPrnu mnt 23, Tallinn

X-baarTatari 1, Tallinn B2.

KaraokeGelsomino KaraokeLai 2, Tallinn Old Town G1.

Koskenkorva Karaoke BarRoseni 13, Tallinn A2.

Laif Restoran & Karaoke ClubLai 5, Tallinn Old Town G1

NightclubsButterfly LoungeVana-Viru 13 / Aia 4, Tallinn Old Town H3.

Caf AmigoViru vljak 4, Tallinn B2.

Club BailaSauna 1, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Club HollywoodVana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Club PrivHarju 6, Tallinn Old Town I1.

Club StudioSauna 1, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Loung Club VioletRoseni 9, Tallinn A2.

TeaterVabaduse vljak 5, Tallinn Old Town J1.

VabankHarju 13, Tallinn Old Town J1.

VenusVana-Viru 14, Tallinn Old Town H3.

Late Night DiningIstanbul KebabEstonia pst 7, Tallinn B2.

LocaTatari 1, Tallinn B2.

SgiplatsTatari 1, Tallinn B2.

Taco ExpressSuur-Karja 18, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Tallinn NightlifeTallinn Nightlife

WHERE THE TOURISTS WHERE THE TOURISTS DONT GODONT GO

T his month, we think you need to take a look at the bars where foreigners dont go in such great numbers, because it is there that you find the real Estonia, and see, for affordable prices, how the locals socialise. All of these diverse watering-holes are guaranteed to entertain and enlighten you. Lets take a look at the unexplored side of Tallinn.

saloon bar in one of those car-toon westerns: its as though the air goes still. The music carries on, but everyone in the bar looks round, curious about the new visi-tor. Kolm Lvi has gained a degree of notoriety for being the only bar in Tallinns Kalamaja district to stay open after 2am.

Inside, Russian disco music blares, people enjoy themselves, completely unselfconsciously, and its clear there is a great party going on here. Someone asks me, using her eyes only, to vacate my seat, as it is hers. She does this with the withering look of someone who idolises Clint Eastwoods character in Gran Torino and doesnt like to be messed-with.

Meanwhile, several women aged over 40 are pirouetting around a pole that has been

placed, randomly, in the middle of the dancefloor, presumably for the amusement of the regulars. It works. No need for snobbery here - for a smooth, luxury experience, there is always the bar of your hotel, but for a true Tallinn late-night survival epic, head to Kolm Lvi. You might surprise your-self with what you find there. My advice, though: go with a friend, as the groups of people who fre-quent Kolm Lvi tend to know each other very well, and you will wish to share the experience with someone.

Stuart Garlick is a jour-nalist and English language teacher based in Tallinn. Since 2012, his blog, Charm Offensive, has covered food, music and fashion in Estonia.

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Karja Kelder

Prgu

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Restaurant & Trahter - Raekoja Plats 15cafe@troika.ee, +372 631 37 65

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All dishes prepared by our German chef.

Childrens Menu Available

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New location:Rtli 28/30, Old Town THE BEST STEAK YOUVE EVER HAD

Viru 22, Tallinn, ph. +372 661 5518, www.steak.eeEtelranta 14, Helsinki, ph. + 358 (0)504198000, www.steak.fi

Frsta stllet i Tallinn nr man kommer sjvgen och sista nr man beger sig till havs!

The rst place to come when You arrive and the last place to visit before leaving!

Massor av hrliga smakupplevelser!

Taste one of our delicious dishes!ppet/Open: varje dag/every day 8-19.

Kket ppet frn kl/The kitchen open from 8.

Levande musik varje dag/Live music every day 12-15

Sadamarket Shopping Centrum1a vn/1st oor, 100m frn A och B-terminalerna/100m from A and B terminals.Sadama 8/Kai 5 (opposite the Sadamaturg), Tallinn, tel. +372 661 4605, info@seitsemerd.ee, www.seitsemerd.ee

Authentic Bavarian

Oktoberfest beer.

Come and taste it.

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E O C T O B E R 2 0 1 512 day trip

TEXT AND PHOTOS MIKKO VIRTA, MAP EVE JAANSOO

The morning sun is warming when you head about twenty kilometres towards the Viimsi peninsula. The coastal Pirita road is soon behind you, and the smell of the algae on the beach forces you to pedal faster.

At Haabneeme beach fresh-er winds are blowing. The idyl-lic, coastal atmosphere is over-shadowed by the Coast Guards warning of blue-green algae (cyanobacteria). Despite this, the beach is full of people when the weather is warm.

Haabneeme shows among other things, Viimsis good reputation. Lush gardens with apple and pear trees, and tomatoes ripening in greenhouses are on both sides of the road.

The well maintained bike path runs along the seashore for most of the journey. The ride is easy. Soon, you can see the Viimsi Open Air museum farmhouses with thatched roofs. For three euros you can famil-iarise yourself with the heritage buildings.

The skyscrapers of the Tallinn skyline can be seen in the distance along the coastline and it creates an interesting contrast with the scenery.

The trip continues to Pringi, with the sea sparkling on the west side all the time. Suddenly, something big floats above: a sea eagle, a second and a third fly large arcs in the sky. On closer inspection, it turns out that the bird closest to the ground is young and the other two are older, white-tailed eagles; the whole family is out for a daily flight. A woman watching children play on the beach, claims that the eagles were there the previous day. One flew over us quite low.

Beside the older houses are high-quality eco houses with Porsches and other expensive toys. It has to stand out some-how, after all, that Viimsi is one of the richest areas outside of Tallinn.

Along with property there are Viimsi traditions, some time ago there was the famous Kirov col-lective farm, which in addition to the production of fishery products, produced shampoo and souvenirs. The Rannarahva Museum shows everyday life on the collective farm.

At Rohuneeme village store you can see Pandju Island in the dis-tance, which you can walk to at low tide. According to the informa-tion sign terns and ducks breed on the island and going to the island is banned during nesting season. Today, the beaches are quite empty, the birds are already migrating towards their winter homes.

Rohuneeme is finally in front of me, the 20 km long bike ride can now be felt, so I stop to rest at a crossroad. I am startled when someone behind me says hello. An older woman walking her dog greets me with friendliness. The same is repeated a few more times, as this village also welcomes strangers, so I know I have arrived.

The atmosphere in Rohuneeme is chatty. This beach village has an air of security and peace. Not

surprisingly, Lennart Meri (Estonias first president after re-independence) liked it here. Estonias legendary president lived in his Rohuneeme home for nearly 10 years. I cannot admire Meris beautiful house as it is located in a fenced area at the tip of the peninsula.

Aegna Island seems almost untouched, Prangli is much far-ther offshore. Viimsi includes Prangli, Naissaar, Aksi and Keri, as

well as a few more smaller islands. Some of the islands are connected to the Viimsi port.

The sea is always beside Rohuneeme. One can only imagine how it can be during winter storms when the cold winds sweep over the village from the sea. At present, however, life seems to be smiling, the sea breeze blowing softly, and the voices of children playing on the beach are transmitted quite far.

Viimsi is Estonias wealthiest parish, made up of about 19, 000 inhabitants. The peninsula is 10 km long and 5 km wide.

From Tallinn city center, one can bicycle to Rohuneeme in a couple of hours. The trip is about 19 km.

There are many worthwhile sights along the way: the Viimsi Open Air Museum, the Museum of Coastal Folk, the Estonian War Museum, and the RMK Nature Centre. The west coast of the peninsula has numerous restau-rants and some village shops.

Bus number 1 runs from the center of Tallinn to Viimsi. You can rent a bike in the Old Town.

Additional Information: www.visitviimsi.com

Viimsi Peninsula

A Seaside Bicycle Tour

Viimsis captivating seaside towns are an easy bicycle ride from Tallinn.

Rohuneeme village is situated on a beautiful sandy beach. August at Pringi beach.

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Viimsi Peninsula

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Prangli

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E O C T O B E R 2 0 1 5 13events

Event and Concert TicketsTickets to just about any event or concert in Estonia can be purchased on-line at Piletilevi, Piletimaailm, and Ticketpro. Or, visit one of their central locations at: Piletilevi: Viru Shopping Centre, Viru vljak 4/6, Tallinn B2. Ticketpro: Solaris Shopping Centre, Estonia pst 9, Tallinn B2. Piletimaailm (Eesti konsert): Estonia pst 4, Tallinn B2.

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Tallinn International Horse Show 20152-4 October, Tallinn, Saku SuurhallThis annual equestrian event hosts FEI World CupTM qualifiers in dressage and in show jumping. The Tallinn International Horse Show brings together some of the best riders from the Central European League, including the best riders from Estonian show jumping and dressage. Last years competition saw 122 athletes, 198 horses from nine different countries take place. It was attended by over 12,000 spectators. Its an event for the whole family. There will be a special play area for kids, as well as equestrian performances just for kids too. Tickets are available from Piletilevi.

Tartu City Marathon/ Tartu City Run 20153 October, TartuThe Tartu City Marathon takes runners through the streets of this beautiful and historic university town. Choose between the marathon (42 km), half-marathon (21 km) as well as 10 km of Tartu City Run and Tartu Student Marathon. Nordic walkers are welcome on the 10 km distance.

Prnu Caf Week3-11 October, Prnu, Various LocationsTaking place for the first time, Prnus Caf Week showcases the best tea and coffee culture in this seaside town. A total of 24 cafs will take part. During the week, specials including salad, dessert, and a cup of coffee/tea will be on offer for 7. Bookings are recommended.

Tallinn Fashion Week21-24 October, Tallinn, Telliskivi Creative City Green HallOne of the highlights of the autumn season, Tallinn Fashion Week is a must for any fashionista. The event celebrates Estonian design and attract thousands of designers and enthusiasts annually. More information can be found at www.estonianfashion.eu.

Estonia vs Switzerland12 October, A. Le Coq Arena, TallinnTickets: Piletilevi

EUFA Qualifier

48th Saaremaa Rally9-10 October, Kuressaare

In 1974, the first rally took place on the island of Saaremaa and has grown in popularity ever since. In 1993 the event went international. The rally is best known for its Kaugatuma-

Toomaluka speed trials. The town trial is regaining its popularity. This years rally will bring in drivers from Finland, though the roads of Saaremaa are no stranger to the likes of drivers like Sebastian Lindholm-Pertti Lahtinen and womens world champion Eija Jurvanen. More information about the event can be found at www.saaremaarally.eu.

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14 family

Old Town fo Five great activities to enjoy

TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Climb the tower and dress up in

armourAround the Old Town, about twenty of the ancient towers have survived and some of them can also be viewed from the inside. Kiek in de Kk, near the Freedom Square is one of the strongest, most well built turrets in Europe. Fat Margaret (Paks Margareeta), however, is known for its very thick-walled lookouts. Within its walls are approximately 155 can-non portholes, and the tower also houses the contemporary Eston-

ian Maritime Museum. In the 14th century Epping Tower, you can try on armour and admire the medi-eval weapons.Fat Margaret, Pikk 70. Tallinn Old Town A2. Epping Tower, Laboratooriumi 31. Tallinn Old Town A2.

Adventurous tunnels

In the bottom floor of the Kiek in de Kok tower there is access to the underground Bastion tunnel, the oldest parts of which were been built in the 16th century. During different eras the tunnels have functioned, among other things,

as bomb shelters and warehouses. The tunnels can be accessed only by guided tour. This attraction is not recommended for children under seven years of age. Kiek in de Kk and Bastion tunnels, Komandandi tee 2. Tallinn Old Town B1.

Taste the marzipan and pastries

Situated near the Town Hall, Mai-asmokk is worthy of its name as a pastry caf. The little ones will see pieces of cake, pink cookies and sweets behind the counter. In the same building as the caf is the Kalev Martsipanimuuseum (Kalev Marzi-

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Experience the atmosphere of past centuries.

Old Town cafes sweeten the senses.

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E O C T O B E R 2 0 1 5 15y fun

or Children with the whole family in Tallinn.

TEXT STUART GARLICK

Petrone Print, the renowned Estonian publishing company, makes a foray into childrens literature with this delightful story about Ronik, a dog owned by a family from Moscow who makes frequent trips to Tallinn. Anait Piruzyan demonstrates her love for the Estonian capital in every page of this geographically-accurate, and yet fantastical, piece of imaginative writing.

On his walk, Ronik, a loyal and obedient dog to his owners, hears a guinea pig speak to him inside his favourite place of all, Tallinn Old Towns pet shop. The guinea pig, who later tells Ronik she is called Beatrice, instructs him to come to a statue in Lembitu Park. Though Ronik hesitates, even-tually he decides the temptation is too great. When there, Bea-trice leads Ronik on a sweeping adventure that takes place across the Old Town and involves all of the citys historic statues, as well as a large part of the pet popula-tion. Priit Reas illustrations bring home, with realistic pictures, the real-life beauty of the Old Town.

If youve visited Tallinn, or you live there, youll love the instantly-recognisable places and monu-ments. If youve never visited Tal-linn in your life, youll fall for the city over the course of this well-

told, nicely-paced story. With-out spoiling the plot, which has a twist that will make you smile and cry at the same time, this is a book about imagination, about the way that magic happens when you believe that play is real, and about understanding who is a true friend and taking care of them.

Other important themes, such as sharing, taking time to look after others, and not allowing people to be spiteful or jealous, are also covered, in a tale that is old-fashioned in the right way, taking you and your child on a timeless journey while teaching that those who are ultimately hap-piest are those who do what feels like the right thing for others.

The language level is about on a par with the third class in an English primary school, between the ages of 8 and 10, and if English is not your childs first language, you should take good care to go through the difficult words with him or her. Some of the turns of phrase feel like they were not written by a native English-speak-er (as they were not), although this is not something that pre-vents enjoyment, just as it did not for Tve Janssons Moomin stor-ies. As with those, the message is delivered subtly, rather than being hammered home, and The Adventures of Ronik in Tallinn is all the better for it.

Review: The Adventures of

Ronik in Tallinn

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pan Room), which is a fun museum because one can taste the confec-tionaries. Visitors can also buy mar-zipan animals and other figurines.Maiasmokk, Pikk 16. Tallinn Old Town G2.

Take the train through the city

A fun old-fashioned fun train ride goes through the cobbled streets of the Old Town. On board, the whole family can relax and get off their tired feet, while admiring the medieval buildings. The blue loco-motive starts every twenty min-utes from Town Hall Square at Kullassepa tnav.

Explore the world of museums

In the Old Town are several museums that are interactive for all members of the family includ-ing kids. Nuku is a puppet theater and a museum, where you can become acquainted with Estonias most famous puppet theater actors and characters. Due to renovations theatrical perform-ances will take place this season, at the Auna theater in Pelgulinn.

The Museum of Natural Sci-ences (Eesti Loodusmuuseum) delves into Estonian nature. Plan to allow more time for your visit as the museum is on three different

floors. Learn all about owls and moths at the temporary exhibit until October 25.

The Estonian History Museum (Eesti Ajaloomuuseum) takes you on an interactive journey back 11,000 years ago. The museum is located in the Great Guild Hall (Suurgildi hoone), near the Mai-asmokk cafe.

NUKU, Nunne 8. Tallinn Old Town G1. Estonian Museum of Natural Sciences, Lai 29a. Tallinn Old Town F2. Estonian History Museum, Pikk 11 Tallinn Old Town G2.

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T H E B A L T I C G U I D E O C T O B E R 2 0 1 516 sightseeing

Paks Margareeta Fat Margaret (Paks Margareeta) is the most important fortification tower in Tallinn. She was built in the early 1500s. The diameter of the tower is 25 metres and the walls are up to 6.5 metres thick! She was constructed to protect Tallinn from intruders from the sea. Fat Margaret is often the main entrance gate and first encounter for visitors to the Old Town in Tallinn, if arriving by sea. Pikk 70,Tallinn A2.

Hop on, Hop off Bus Tour

Sometimes you just dont have enough time to see everything, but on the Tallinn City Tour you just might. Three lines run daily, and best of all, each one passes through the Port of Tallinn, making it even more convenient. The tour operates in ten different languages and is guided by a recorded audio track that follows the sequence of the sights. One ticket is valid for 24 hours. This means that you can travel on all three routes in one day.

Must-see sights of the Old TownTEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Viewing PlatformsKohtu Platform - offers one of the best views of the Old Town. The impressive tower of the Niguliste Church seems at arm's length. The red-tiled roofs with white edges are characteristic of Tallinn. Tallinn B1.Patkul Platform - shows both a view of St Olafs Church, and part of the city wall. The church was even taller in medieval times and the tallest building in the world in its time. Nowhere else can you see the city wall from a better angle. Tallinn B1.Kiriku Platform - the platform at the end of Kiriku Street faces west and offers a view of splendid and romantic sunsets. Tallinn B1.

Raekoja platsTallinns Old Town was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997. The Town Hall Square (Raekoja plats) is Northern Europes best-preserved medieval town hall square and was built at the beginning of the 1400s. Tallinn Old Town H 1-2.

St Olafs Church (Oleviste kirik)Climb the stairs of the St Olaf Church and you will discover not only the lower town bene-ath, but also the magnificent palaces facing the slopes of Toompea Hill, and the upper town. The old town of Tallinn is divided into a lower and upper part. The lower town was inha-bited by hanseatic traders and the upper town, or Toompea, was inhabited by nobility. Lai 50, Tallinn Old Town E2.

Katariina kikBlink and you might miss this narrow passageway off of Vene. Built in 1246, St. Catherine's Monastery (Pha Katariina kloos-ter) is the oldest building in Tallinn. This passageway is also known as the Latin Quarter of Tallinn, and where you can find one of Tallinns first Italian restaurants. Tallinn Old Town H 2-3.

RaeapteekThe Town Hall Pharmacy (Raeapteek) is one of Europe's oldest pharmacies, which still operates in its original location, on Town Hall Square. Tallinn Old Town H1.

Toompea CastleThe Tall Hermann Tower (15th century) on the southwest corner of the hill, and the blue, black, and white Estonian flag signify indepen-dence and freedom for Estonians. Today, Toompea is the centre of Estonian government and the Riigikogu (parliament). Look for the pink building behind the Russian Orthodox Aleksander Nevsky Cathedral. Tallinn B1.

Kiek in de Kk and the Bastion TunnelsThe Kiek in de Kk tower is the entrance to historical underground bastion tunnels. In Soviet times they were supposed to serve as bomb shelters and protect the communist elite in case of a war. Kiek in de Kk means look into the kitchen in Low German, as this was one of the main things soldiers spent their time doing while on the lookout for intruders. Kiek in de Kk dates back to the 15th century. The tower is 38 metres tall, and the walls are four metres thick.Komandandi tee 2, Tallinn B1.

KGB MuseumA fascinating museum about Soviet history in Estonia is located on the top floor of the Viru Hotel. The hotel rooms were under KGB sur-veillance. The rooms were equipped with microphones, and small holes were made in the walls, where cameras could be placed to take pictures of hotel guests.

The museum is only accessible by guided tour. Tours run daily and are held in English, Finnish, Russian, and Estonian. English tours fill up quickly so bookings are recommended. Viru vljak 4, Tallinn B2.

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E O C T O B E R 2 0 1 5 17sightseeing

1 January New Years Day24 February Independence DayEaster Good Friday1 May Spring Holiday;Pentecost;23 June Victory Day;24 June Midsummers Day;20 August Re-independence Day;24 December Christmas Eve;25 December Christmas Day;26 December Boxing Day

The work day preceding New Years Day, Independence Day, Victory Day, and Christmas Day is reduced by three hours.

2015/2016 School HolidaysAutumn Break17 October 2015 25 October 2015Winter Break23 December 2015 10 January 2016Spring Break19 March 2016 27 March 2016Summer Break4 June 2016 - 31 August 2016

Holidays

Medical Centres and Pharmacies

24H Pharmacy Tnismgi 5, TallinnTel. +372 644 2282Mustame Medical CentreEhitajate tee 27, TallinnTel.+372 659 8318Keskhaigla Medical CentreRavi 18, TallinnTel. 1900, +372 622 7070

Central Post OfficesPostimaja Post OfficeNarva mnt 1, Tallinn B2.Kristiine Post Office Endla 45 (Kristiine Shopping Centre), Tallinn Airport Post OfficeTartu mnt 101, Tallinn Toompea Post OfficeLossi plats 4, Tallinn Old Town, B1.Old Town Postal StoreViru 20, Tallinn Old Town, H3.

Tallinn: Niguliste 2/Kullassepa 4, TallinnTartu: Raekoja plats 1A, TartuPrnu: Uus 4, Prnu

Narva: Peetri plats 3, NarvaRakvere: Laada 14, RakvereJrvamaa: Keskvljak 8, PaideRpina: Kooli 1, RpinaJgeva: Suur 3, JgevaSaaremaa: Tallinna 2, KuressaareHiiumaa: Hiiu 1, KrdlaHaapsalu: Karja 15, HaapsaluJhvi: Rakvere 13A, JhviOtep: Tartu mnt 1, OtepValga: Kesk 11, ValgaViljandi: Vabaduse plats 6, ViljandiVru: Jri 12, VruRapla: Viljandi mnt 4, Rapla

TOURIST INFORMATION

Currency ExchangeDebit and credit cards are widely accepted throughout Estonia, especially VISA and Mastercard. American Express is not as widely accepted.

Currency can be exchanged in banks throughout the country. Major Estonian banks include: LHV, Swedbank, SEB, and Nordea. There is a wide network of ATMs in major cities and smaller towns. Currency can also be exchanged at Eurex, and Tavid.

The name Tallinn originates from the Danish occupation (1219).

1285 Tallinn joins the Hanseatic League.

1346 The Danish sell Tallinn to the German Order. Toompea was divid-ed among princes and bourgeoisie in the upper-town and craftsmen in the lower-town.

1561 Tallinn goes to the Swedish.

1721 The Russians conquer Estonia and Tallinn.

1918 Estonia declares independence and Tallinn becomes its capital.

193944 Russians and Germans occupy Tallinn.

1944 The Soviet Army bombs Tallinn in March and causes extensive dam-age. 1400 people are killed.

19441991 Tallinn becomes a Soviet capi-tal and hosts the sailing competi-tions of the 1980 Moscow Olympics.

1991 Tallinn becomes the capital of newly-independent Estonia. In 1997, it is declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

2011 Tallinn is the European Capital of Culture along with Turu. Its popula-tion is estimated at 411,000: 53% Estonians, 38% Russians, 9% Other.

A quick history of the city of Tallinn

Outside of the Old TownTEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

ESTONIA AT-A-GLANCEArea: 45,227 km2.Population: approximately 1,350,000Capital: Tallinn, population approximately 400,000.Other cities: Tartu 98,522, Narva 64,057, Prnu 42,433Ethnicity: Estonians 68%, Russians 24.8%, Other 6.5%Language: The official language is Estonian, which belongs to the Finno-Ugric group of languages (Finnish, Hungarian). Russian is the mother tongue of more than 300,000 inhabitants. English is widely spoken throughout the country.Religion: Approximately 20% of Estonians are non-religious, others Lutheran, Orthodox, Catholic.

Currency: Euro Independence: 24 February 1918Re-independence: 20 August 1991Weather: Average temperature July 16C, February -9CTime Zone: GMT +2Elevation: The highest point in Estonia is Suur Munamgi (318m) located in Vru County.Islands: 1,521. The largest are Saaremaa, Hiiumaa, and Muhu.Lakes: Lake Peipsi, located on the border between Russia and Estonia, is Europes fourth largest lake (3,555km2).

Kalamaja & KopliKalamaja (Fish house) is a historic suburb filled with wooden houses and old factories. Since the 14th cen-tury, Kalamaja has served as Tallinns main fishing port and was home to fishermen and fishmongers. When the railroad connected Tallinn with St. Petersburg in 1870, many factories

opened. The colourful wooden hous-es you still see today were built in the 1920s and 1930s to house the grow-ing working population. Kalamaja has seen a revival over the last few years as artists and other bohemian types have moved in for the large spaces and cheap rent. Restaurants and cafs began to open, and the area con-tinues to grow .

Seaplane Harbour (Lennusadam)Kti 17 / Vesilennuki 6, TallinnBy tram: No. 1 or 2 from the city centre to the Linnahall stop.

Have you ever seen the hull of a real submarine from below? Or better still, crawled through the narrow living and working quarters of a fully refurbished sub from the 1930s? The submarine Lembit was one of two Estonian submarines built in the UK in the mid 1930s.

Another sight is an authentic rep-lica of the Short Admiralty Type 184 seaplane, a British two-seat reconnaissance, bombing, and torpedo carrying folding-wing seaplane used in the Estonian War of Independence in the early 1920s and later for mail service. The museum is located in the for-mer seaplane hangars built during WWI by the Russian tsar. The con-struction is architecturally unique since it was the largest armoured concrete ceiling in the world at the time of construction.

KadriorgKadriorg Park is the area that houses the Presidential Palace (Presidendi kantselei) and the Kadriorg Palace (Kadrioru loss), and the KUMU Art Museum. (All located on Weizenbergi). Kadriorg means Catherines Valley in Estonian, and dates back to the 18th century. The park and the palace were built

by Peter the Great, who apparently helped in its building. As was custom-ary at the time, the main house was named after his wife. There are plenty of other things to see in this beauti-ful and prestigious park. From the Kadriorg Palace, head straight along the park trail to the Russalka monu-ment, located at the shore of the Gulf of Finland. The famous Song Festival Grounds (Lauluvljak) are only a short walk from the park as well.

PiritaPirita is an area located a short distance to the east of the city centre and offers a variety of things to see and do. Start by visiting the ruins of St Birgittas Convent (Pirita klooster) whose colourful history dates back to the 15th century. A stroll through the ruins and the surrounds, including the small cemetery, is a moving reminder of the past. Its proximity to the Pirita River and the beach makes it perfect as part of a day excursion. The 2km long beach can attract up to 30,000 visitors a day in

summer. Also located a short distance from the beach is the citys Botanical Gardens (Botaanikaaed) and the famous Tallinn TV Tower (Teletorn), which is a must see as it not only pro-vides a number of interactive exhibits but also offers one of the best views of the city and the district. A starting point for information on these can be found at:St Birgittas Convent ruins (Pirita klooster)-Kloostri tee 9, TallinnTallinn TV Tower (Teletorn) - Kloostrimetsa tee 58A, TallinnBotanical Gardens (Botaanikaaed) - Kloostrimetsa tee 52, Tallinn.

Estonian Open Museum (Eesti Vabahu-muuseum)Vabahumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn.

Visitors can catch a glimpse of the Estonian countryside and village life

from the past. The venue has a dis-tinctive rural atmosphere that includes various farm buildings as well as its own church, tavern, and schoolhouse. Several mills, a fire station, fishing net sheds, a dancing area, and a village swing add to the character of the place. Some of the countrys iconic windmills can also be seen. Various demonstrations, displays and interactive activities help bring the past to life and provide visitors with a fun and educational experience.

Patarei Prison (Patarei Vangla)Kalaranna 2-2aBy tram: No. 1 or 2 from the city centre to the Linnahall stop.

Patarei Prison gives an eerie glimpse into gloomy Soviet era prison life. For a small entrance fee you can take a self-guided tour through the dark halls of this old sea fortress that has served as a bar-racks, and then as a prison during Soviet times.

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E O C T O B E R 2 0 1 518 museum MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

TALLINN

Museums Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design (Eesti Tarbekunsti- ja Disainimuuseum)Lai 17, Tallinn Old Town, 1G. www.etdm.ee. We-Su 11 - 18.

Estonian History Museum Great Guild Hall (Eesti Ajaloomuuseum) Pikk 17, Tallinn Old Town, G1. www.ajaloomuuseum.ee 01.09 - 30.04 Th-Tu 1018.

Estonian History Museum Maarjame PalaceMaarjame Castle, Pirita tee 56, Tallinn, A5.www.ajaloomuuseum.ee. We-Su 1017.

Estonian Maritime Museum (Eesti Meremuuseum) Pikk 70, Tallinn Old Town, D3.www.meremuuseum.ee. 01.10-30.04 Tu-Su 1018.

Estonian Museum of Natural History (Eesti Loodusmuuseum)Lai 29a, Tallinn Old Town, F2. www.loodusmuuseum.ee. We 10-17, Th 10-19, Fri-Su 10-17.

Estonian Open Air Museum (Eesti Vabahumuuseum)Vabahumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. www.evm.ee.23.04-28.09 Mo-Su 10-20, 29.09-22.04 Mo-Su 10-17.

Estonian Theatre and Music Museum (Eesti Teatri- ja muusikamuuseum) Mrivahe 12, Tallinn Old Town, I2. www.tmm.ee. 1.09-31.05 May, Tu-Sa 10-18. 1.06-31.08, Mo-Sa 10-18.

Kiek in de Kk & Bastion PassagesKomandandi tee 2, Tallinn Old Town, J1.www.linnamuuseum.ee/kok/.1.03-31.10 Tu-Su 10.30-18. 1.11-29.02 Tu-Su 10-17.30.

Miia-Milla-Manda Museum (Muuseum Miia-Milla-Manda)L. Koidula 21C, Tallinn B4. www.linnamuuseum.ee/miiamillamanda. Tu-Su 12-18.

Dominican Monastery Museum (Dominikaanlaste Kloostri muuseum) Vene 16, Tallinn Old Town, G3. www.kloostri.ee. 1.06-30.09 Mon-Sun 11-17. Winter by appointment only.

Museum of Estonian Architecture (Eesti Arhitektuuri muuseum. Rotermanni soolaladu)Ahtri 2, Tallinn, A2. www.arhitektuurimuuseum.ee.We 1218, Th 12-20, Fr-Su 11-18.

Museum of Puppet Arts NUKU (Nukumuuseum NUKU)Lai 1, Tallinn Old Town, G1. www.nuku.ee. Tu-Su 10-19.

Occupation Museum (Okupatsioonimuuseum)Toompea 8, Tallinn Old Town, B1.www.okupatsioon.ee. Tu-Su 11 - 18.

Photo Museum (Raevangla fotomuuseum)Raekoja 4, Tallinn Old Town, H2. (Located behind Tallinns Old Town Square) www.linnamuuseum.ee/fotomuuseum.1.03-31.10 Th-Tu 10.30-18, 1.11-29.02 Th-Tu 10-17.30.

Tallinn City Museum (Tallinna Linnamuuseum)Vene 17, Tallinn Old Town, G3.www.linnamuuseum.ee We Mo 10.3017.30.

Viru Hotel and KGB Museum (Hotell Viru ja KGB muuseum)Viru vljak 4, Tallinn B2.http://www.sokoshotels.fi/en/hotels/tallinn/basic-information/hotel-viru-and-kgb-museum/Please contact the hotel to make a booking. Tours available in English, Finnish, and Russian.

Art Museums & GalleriesAdamson-Eric Museum (Adamson-Ericu muuseum)Lhike jalg 3, Tallinn Old Town, I1.www.adamson-eric.ee. We-Su 1118

Kadrioru Art Museum (Kadrioru kunstimuuseum)Weizenbergi 37, Tallinn, A4. www.kadriorumuuseum.ee.JanApr:We 1020, ThSu 1017.MayJune: Th 1017, We 1020, ThSu 1017.

Mikkeli Museum (Mikkeli muuseum)Weizenbergi 28, Tallinn, B4. www.mikkelimuuseum.ee.JanJune: We 1020, Th-Su 1017.JulyDec: Tu, Th-Su 1017, We 1020.

Kumu Art Museum (Kumu kunstimuuseum)Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, Tallinn, B5. www.kumu.ee.OctApr: We 1120, ThSu 1118.MaySept:Tu 1118, We 1120, ThSu 1118.

Niguliste Museum (Niguliste muuseum)Niguliste 3, Tallinn Old Town, I1.www.nigulistemuuseum.ee. We-Su 1017. Ticket office closes 16.30.

Race to the End of the WorldThe fascinating tale of conquering the South Pole.

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

For those of you not familiar with the story, it goes like this: Norwegi-an explorer Roald Amundsen and British Navy officer Robert Fal-con Scott were on two separate expeditions in 1911 for the South Pole. Sadly however, one was not to return. The Race to the End of the Earth is a tale of adventure and hardship, triumph and sorrow, and of course courage and bravery.

There are three things I abso-lutely love about this exhibit. One, it really is larger than life. The story is truly remarkable and its hard not to leave inspired. Two, there is something for everyone to learn. And three, while the story begins with Amundsen and Scott, it continues with other who have been just as crazy and their stories are fascinating too, explains Ann Virkus, in charge of sales for the exhibit, exuberantly.

The exhibit starts from the beginning of the tale and shows that while the two men embarked on the same mission, their routes, teams, and equipment were very different. Scott's team was very much based on hierarchy, whereas Amundsen chose men that were the very best at what they did, explain Virkus.

Partially reconstructed base camps are on display, as well as

equipment, photos, maps, and more. Upon entering the exhibit, you can pick up a card that shows you which team you are a part of, then as you wander through the exhibit you can follow the story of that team member. For children there is a passport, where they can collect stamps at each of the stops.

As we mentioned before, there is much more than just Amundsens and Scotts tales. Learn about nature and wildlife in the Antarctic, climate and weather conditions, as well as modern day Antarctic exploration, which also shows what a modern-day camp looks like. And did you know that Estonians have a long his-tory of Antarctic exploration too? The exhibit finishes with a look at Estonians who have gone to Antarc-tica and their missions there.

In addition to the exhibit, the Seaplane Harbour will also be hold-

ing a lecture series called Maritime Forums every second Tuesday. In October the schedule is: Why Are We Fascinated by the Antarctic? on October 6 and Lessons from Ant-arctica: Burden of Fire on Octo-ber 20. On Halloween, October 31, spend a night at the museum and watch The Thing trilogy (The Thing from Another World (1951 / 87 min), The Thing (1982 /109 min), The Thing (2011 / 103 min)) just like the Antarctic explorers do at the beginning of winter. More info as well as schedules can be found at: www.lennusadam.eu

LocationRace to the End of the World will be on display from 29 August 2015 3 April 2016.Seaplane HarbourEstonian Maritime MuseumVesilennuki tee 6, Tallinn

MUSEUM OF OCCUPATIONSToompea 8, TallinnOpen 11.00 - 18.00

Phone: +372 668 0250muuseum@okupatsioon.ee

www.okupatsioon.ee

Insight into the life in Estonia during three occupations (1940-1991)

Temporary exhibitions

Missing IdentityPrague through the lens of the secret police

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E O C T O B E R 2 0 1 5 19

L. Koidula

J. Poska

Tallinna likool

HobujaamaMere pst

LinnahallPhja pst

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Tallinns public transport system consists of trams, buses, and trolleys. All three use the same ticketing system. In 2013, a smartcard ticketing system was introduced. If you plan on using public transport more than three times, this is your best option. Smartcards can be purchased and topped up at R-Kiosks and are transferrable. The Tallinn Card also allows you to use public transport for free. Both cards must be validated by touching them to the orange card reader. Detailed route plans are displayed at all the stops, or plan you journey ahead of time on-line at: http://soiduplaan.tallinn.ee

PUBLIC TRANSPORT

Trolley-buses13

7

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Kaubamaja MustameKaubamaja MustameBalti jaam KeskuseBalti jaam Mustame Kaubamaja Vike-ismeBalti jaam Vike- isme

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Red Line - City CentreGreen Line - PiritaBlue Line - Rocca al MareTour routes last approximately one hour. All services begin at Viru Square. Tickets 19 www.citytour.ee

TALLINN CITY TOURTake a tour of Tallinn on the red double-decker bus. Simultaneous translation in 10 different languages.Hop On Hop Off - bus tickets valid for 24h on three different lines.

OLD TOWN

Useful Phrasesplease ..................................................... palunthank you ............................................. aith, tnanexcuse me ............................................ vabandagehello........................................................ tere, tervistgood morning .................................... tere hommikustgood day............................................... tere pevastgood evening ..................................... tere htustgood night ........................................... head dgoodbye ............................................... ngemist, head aegaall the best............................................ kike head, kike paremathave a good trip ................................. head reisibon appetite ....................................... jtku leiba, head isu cheers, to your health ...................... terviseks

How much does this cost? ............. kui palju see maksab?Do you have? .................................. kas teil on? on teil?where is ............................................ kus onWhat is this?......................................... mis see on?What does this mean? ..................... mida see thendab?How are you? (formal)...................... kuidas elate?How are you? (informal) .................. kuidas lheb?not bad .................................................. pole viga!nice to see you/to meet you .......... rm teid nha, meeldiv kohtudait was nice meeting you .................. oli meeldiv tutvudaWhat time is it? ................................... palju kell on?I do not speak Estonian, Russian .. mina ei oska eesti (vene) keeltDo you speak English? ..................... kas te rgite inglise keelt?/Swedish/Finnish/German? ........... /rootsi/soome/saksa keelt?

From the driver single ticket 1.60 student ticket 0.80Try to have exact change for the driver. Cards are not accepted. The ticket is valid for one journey only on that specific vehicle. Discounts are only available to ISIC cardholders.

E-tickets 1 hour ticket 1.10 1 day (24h) 3 3 days (72h) 5 5 days (120h) 6 30 days 23

Where to buy from the driver from kiosks from post offi ces online www.pilet.ee

(Top up your smartcard with MasterCard or Visa)

The Smartcard or hiskaart can be topped up with money or e-tickets and can be purchased from any of the sales points listed at www.pilet.ee. A 2 deposit is needed to pur-chase the Smartcard.

If you are using pay-as-you-go credit, your Smartcard automatically calculates the cheapest fare for you within a 24-hour time period. You must validate your card at the begin-ning of each journey.

Ticket Information

6-118-00011-800 (+0.74 / min)

www.pilet.ee, info@pilet.ee

Free preschool children adult travelling with children

3 years and under holders of a validated

Tallinn Card

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E O C T O B E R 2 0 1 5 19getting around

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E O C T O B E R 2 0 1 520

Tartu

TALLINN

www.visitestonia.com

Photo: Margus Johanson

No international drivers licence is required to drive in Esto-nia, but the following rules apply to all drivers: Blood alcohol level must be zero. Estonia has no motorways per say. Please mind intersec-

tions and cyclists. The speed limit is most often 50km/h in towns, but can

vary between 30-70km/h depending on the area. Speed limits will be posted. Outside of cities and towns the speed limit is 90km/h and 110km/h on dual carriage-ways.

All cars must carry a warning triangle, wheel chocks, a first aid kit, and fire extinguisher. Drivers must wear fluorescent vests when stopped at night.

In case of collision, please call the police. Insurance docu-ments and driver information should be exchanged.

Please pay parking and speed fines to avoid further penalty.

Driving in Estonia

Getting to and from Tallinn

By bus:Tallinn Central Bus Station (Tallinna Autobussijaam)Lastekodu 46, Tallinnwww.tpilet.ee, www.peatus.eeEcolines www.ecolines.eeHansabuss Business Line www.businessline.eeLux Express www.luxexpress.euTemptrans www.temptrans.ee

From the bus station to the city: tram no. 2 bus no. 17, no. 23

By sea:TO/FROM HELSINKI Ecker Line - www.eckeroline.eeTallink - www.tallinksilja.comViking Line - www.vikingline.ee

Linda Line Express - www.lindaline.eeTO/FROM STOCKHOLMTallink - www.tallinksilja.comTO/FROM ST. PETERSBURGSt. Peter Line - www.stpeterline.comFrom the Port of Tallinn to the city/airport: bus no. 2

By train:Train Station (Baltijaam)Toompuistee 37, Tallinnwww.edel.eewww.gorail.eeFrom the train station to the city: tram no. 1, no. 2, or ten minutes on foot to the Old Town

Bt air:Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport (Lennujaam)Tartu mnt 101, Tallinnwww.tallinn-airport.ee/engFrom the airport to the city: bus no. 2, no. 90K

You dont need to hire a car to get around the city of Tallinn, but a car is a great way to see the countryside and explore small towns. If you are arriving by plane, your most conven-ient option is to use one of the many rental companies at Tallinn Airport: Budget www.budget.ee Europcar www.europcar.ee Hertz www.hertz.ee National www.europcar.ee Sixt Rent A Car www.sixt.com

There are many other companies to use in Tallinn, some which have a car drop-off and pick-up option to your hotel or holi-day apartment. For more information on driving in Estonia visit www.mnt.ee.

Easy Car Rent www.easycarrent.ee Hansarent www.hansarent.ee Sir Autorent www.sirrent.ee Yes Rent www.yesrent.ee

Car Hire

Taxis

Tallinns taxi rates can vary drastically, so to avoid being ripped off remember to check the rates displayed on the window before getting in. For a full listing of taxi rates visit: www.taksod.eeThe Tallinn Airport has an agreement with the following taxi companies: Tallinna Takso, Tulika Takso, and Tallink Takso. A journey from the airport to the city centre should cost between 7-10, or slightly more in heavy traffic.

Emergency Phone Numbers:

POLICE andEMERGENCY 112 AUTOMOBILE 1888 (24 h)

Free WiFiY e s , t h a t s r i g h t ,

the rumours are true! Al-most everywhere you go in Estonia, you will fi nd free WiFi access for your mobile devices. Look for the orange and black WiFi sign, or visit www.wifi .ee for a listing of all Internet hotspots.

Parking in Tallinn can be confusing. There are public paid areas as well as private parking lots. The first 15 minutes of parking is free , if the driver is using a parking clock or written notice stating the start time placed visibly on the windscreen of the vehicle. This does not apply to privately owned off-street car parks.

CITY CENTRE / KESKLINN:0,30 / 15 minutesPaid parking: Mo - Fr 07:00 to 19:00; Sat 08:00 to 15:00Parking is Free on Sundays and on public holidays

DOWNTOWN / SDALINN:0,75 / 15 minutesPaid parking: Mo - Fi 07:00 to 19:00; Sat 08:00 to 15:00Parking is Free on Sundays and on public holidays

OLD TOWN / VANALINN:1,20 / 15 minutesPaid parking around the clockParking for motorcycles (two-wheeled vehicles) is free of charge in the public paid-parking areas of Tallinn.

For more information: http://www.tallinn.ee/eng/Parking-in-Tallinn

Parking

P

Phone callsThere are no city codes in Estonia. Local calls

can be made simply by entering the number as is. Mobile phone num-bers start with 5. Estonias country code is +372. Dail 00, then the coun-try code, and then the phone number to make a call overseas.

transport T H E B A L T I C G U I D E O C T O B E R 2 0 1 520

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Kalasadama A2Kanuti A2Kappeli C4Karu A3Katusepapi C4Kauka B2Kauna C2Kaupmehe B2Keldrime B3Kentmanni B2Kevade B1Killustiku B5Kivimurru A4-B4Kodu C2Kohtu A1Koidu B1Koidula A4Kleri A4Kollane B3Komeedi C1Kooli A2Kopli A1Kotka C1Kotzebue A1Kreutzwaldi B3Kristiina C1Kuhlbarsi B3Kunderi B3Kuninga A2Laagna tee B4Laboratoorimi A2Lahe A4

Lai F2-G1Laikmaa B2Lasname B4Lastekodu B3Laulupeo B3Lauteri B2Lembitu B2Lennuki B2Liivalaia B2Liivame B3Logi A2Lootsi A3Lossi plats B1Lubja B4Luha C1Luise B1Maakri B2Mekalda A5Magasini C2Majaka B4Malmi A1Mardi B3Masina C3-C4Mere pst A2Mrivahe G3-I1Nafta A3Narva mnt A3Niguliste B1Niine A1Nunne A1Odra B3Olevimgi F3

Oleviste F2Otsa J3Paadi A2Pagari F2Paldiski mnt B1Pallasti B4Prna B3Prnu mnt B2Peterburi tee C4Piiskopi B1Pikk G2Pikk jalg A1Pirita tee A4-A5Planeedi C1Phja puiestee A2Poska A4Pronksi A3-B3Phavaimu G2Puhke C2Rahukohtu A1Ranname tee A1Ranname tee A2Rataskaevu H1Raua B3Rvala pst B2Ravi C2Roheline aas A4-B4Roopa B1Roosikrantsi B1Roseni A2Rumbi A2Rtli I1Sadama A2Sakala B2

Salme A1Saturni C1Sauna B2Sikupilli B4-C4Soo A1Spordi C1Sda B2Sgise B1Suur-Ameerika B1Suur-Karja I2-J2Suur-Kloostri G1Suur-Sjame C4Suurtki A2Tare C2Tartu mnt B3Tatari C2Tehnika C1Telliskivi A1Terase B3Tina A3Tobiase B3Tolli A2Tllu A1Tnismgi B1Toom-Kooli A1-B1Toom-Kuninga B1Toom-Rtli A1Toompea B1Toompuiestee A1Tstuse A1Tormi A4Tuha B5Trnpu B3Turu B3

Tuukri A3Tuuleme C4Tuvi B1lemiste tee C4Uue Maailma C1Uus F3-H3Vabriku A1Vike-Ameerika C1Vike-Karja I2Vaikne C2Vaimu F2Valgevase A1Vana-kalamaja A1Vana-Luna C2Vana-Posti I1-I2Vana-Viru H3Vase A3-B3Veerenni C2Veetorni B1Vene F3-H2Vesivrava A3Videviku C1Villardi B1Vilmsi B4Virmalise C1Viru A2Vistluse C3Weizenbergi A4Wiedemanni B4Wismari B1

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3020 50 km4010010

) #

REGIO 2008Riia 24, Tartu 51010tel +372 738 7300

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Haldusjaotus on seisuga 01.04. 2007

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