Textile Science -Session 1

8/3/2019 Textile Science -Session 1

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Textile Science

Introduction to Textiles


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WHAT IS TEXTILES?

A textile is a flexible material consisting of a network of natural

or artificial fibres often referred to as thread or yarn.

Yarn is produced by spinning raw wool fibres, linen, cotton, orother material on a spinning wheel to produce long strands

known as yarn.

Textiles are formed by:

1.weaving,

2.knitting,

3.pressing fibers togethernon wovens (felt).

2 Textile Science -TD Sem III


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Textile Science -TD Sem III3

The words fabric and cloth are used in textile trades assynonyms for textile.

Textile- any material made of interlacing fibres.

Fabric - any material made through weaving, knitting,crocheting, or bonding.

Cloth - a finished piece of fabric that can be used for a

purpose such as covering a bed


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Importance of Textiles


One of the human basic needs besides food, shelter andmedicine.

Becoming more value conscious than price sensitive.

The economic implications of decisions about fibers, yarns,and fabrics obviously increase if someone is involvedprofessionally with textiles.


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Textiles in our day-to-day life We climb out from under sheets and blankets and step into

slippers and a robe.

We wash our faces with washcloths, dry them with towels, andput on clothing for the day.

Even the bristles of our tooth brushes are made from textilefibres.

If we get into a car or bus, we sit on upholstered seats; themachine moves on tires reinforced with strong textile cords.

We stand on carpets, sit on upholstered furniture, and look outof curtained windows.



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Other Textiles we come across.

Not only are golf clubs, tennis rackets reinforced with textile fibers,but so are roads, bridges and buildings.

Strong, heat-resistant textile fibers in the nose cones of spaceshipstravel to distant planets.

Physicians implant artificial arteries made of textiles or use fibers forsurgery that gradually dissolve as wounds heal.

conveyor belts and even our processed foods have been filteredthrough textile filter paper.

To sum up -there is truly no aspect of modern life that is untouchedby some area of textiles.



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Textile History

No one knows exactly when the spinning and weaving of textilesbegan.

The oldest fragment of cloth found so far is from archeologicalexcavations at a site in southern Turkey called Cayonu.

This piece of white fabric, probably linen, has been dated at about7000 B.C.



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Historians have long thought that silk from China first reachedancient Greece and Rome along a trade route called the silk roadin the latter part of the 2nd century B.C

The Romans imported not only Chinese silk but also cotton fromnearby Egypt.

Roman settlements excavated in India, archeologists have foundfacilities for dyeing and finishing cotton fabrics.



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TEXTILE NOW-A-DAYS


International trade in textiles and clothing has played an importantrole in the development process of many countries and has alsofacilitated their integration in to the world economy.

In the Developed Countries, the process of industrialization and

Subsequent prosperity in a way commenced with the mechanizationof textile production in the early 19th Century.

In the Developing Countries, on the other hand, the sector has cometo occupy an important place in terms of its contribution to national

output, employment and exports.

Developing countries as a group account for more than one half ofworld exports of textiles and clothing.


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Importance of Textile Industry in India


Contributes 4% to the Gross Domestic Product (GDP)

Accounts for 17% of total Exports

Is the largest employment provider after Agriculture (82 million people direct/indirect)

Market size of the Textile industry (exports & domestic) is

US$ 52 billion, at present

Expected to reach US$ 110 billion by 2012


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Current Status of Indian Textile Industry

Source: The Textile Magazine, Dec 2008

Indian position in global market

Largest producer of jute 2nd largest producer of silk

3rd largest producer of cotton(16% of global production)

3rd largest producer of cellulosic fibre/yarn

5th

largest producer of synthetic fibres/yarns 11th largest producer of wool



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Total Exports of all Textiles and Clothings -2007



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In 2006-07, exports were $ 18.73 billion recording a growth ofabout 7% over the previous year and contributed about 15% ofcountrys total export earnings

Latest available WTO data, Indias % share in the global

textiles and the clothing trade was 4.3% and 3.3% respectivelyin 2006

Total textile imports were of the order of Rs.12,857 crores

About 51% of this was on account of import of yarn and fabricsand 44% on account of import of raw material



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Regulations and policies

Some of the Govt. Regulations and policies

TUF Scheme: launched in April 1, 1999 to provide firms toaccess to low interest rate loans for technology up-gradationand setting up new units with state-of- art technology

In Xth Plan(2002-2007), Rs.1,270 crores was earmarked forthis scheme

With overwhelming response form the industry, governmentdecided to extend the scheme upto the XIth Plan



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FDI: upto 100% FDI allowed in the textile and apparel manufacturingindustry, with the approval of the Foreign Investment PromotionBoard(FIPB)

SITP: Scheme for Integrated Textile Parks, based on public-privatepartnership model to build world class infrastructure facilities,targets/locations with high growth potential



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Indias export target of $ 55 bn by 2012 has been fixed

keeping in view the following factors:

End of quota regime

Growing world economies with rising per capita income

Increased trade in apparel

A surge in demand for technical textiles

Increasing penetration of high format retail stores



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STRENGTHS WEAKNESS

2nd largest textile producer in world Small size & technological outdated plants, lowproductivity & weak quality control

Integrated industry Poor work practices resulting in high labourcosts

Abundant skilled and technical labour force Except spinning sector, others are fragmented

Large and growing domestic market Poor quality in weaving & processing due tounorganised sectors

Strong cotton base Rigid government labour laws and policies

Flexibility in production of small orders High transaction and power cost

OPPURTUNITIES THREATS

Per capita domestic textile consumptionincreasing

Survival of the fittest in terms of quality, size,delivery and cost

Textile industry identified as thrust area by

government for development and promotion

Competion from other textile exporting

countries after the abolition of quota system

Phasing out of manufacturing by developedcountries due to high cost of production

Adoption of non-tariff barriers in the form ofanti-dumping duties by developed countires

Shift in domestic markets towards readymadegarments

Textile Science -TD Sem III


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Top Exporters Amount in US$ Bn %

Europe 154.63 29.17

China 144.07 27.18

India 19.52 3.68

Turkey 19.47 3.67

US 17.54 3.31

Others 174.77 32.99

Total 530.00 100.00



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Emerging trends in World Trade


The cost and price structure globally is being characterized byhigher potential for profit from ,

1.innovation,

2.marketing, and

3.retailing

rather than,

1.production,

2.assembly, finishing and

3.packaging.


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Application of Technology


In this emerging scenario, wide spread application of technology isrequired not only to,

upgrade the quality of products and

determine consumer choices,

but also,

to overcome disadvantages andto reduce overhead costs

The developed countries are already focusing on niche products like,

protective clothing,clothing for medical use (Nanotextiles)


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Some of the products, now being developed are jackets that,

i) cool the wearers down,

ii) warm them up, & send out soothing vibrations,

iii) textiles with healing & caring properties and

iv) protection from harmful radiation.


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"Technical textiles"have been breaking new ground dueto their,

1.cost effectiveness,

2.durability,3.versatility,

4.user friendliness,

5.eco-properties

Around 40% of all textiles made in Germany are nowcovered under the field of "Technical Textiles".


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Market Estimates


Market Size of Indian Textile Industry (2006) - US$ 52 bn;

Market Size of Indian Textile Industry (2012) - US$110 bn;

Market Size of Domestic Market (2006) - US$ 34.6 bn;

Market Size of Domestic Market (2012) - US$ 60.0 bn;

The cloth production is expected to grow at an annual rate of13% and garments at the rate of 19%.


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Fibres, Filaments, Yarns (spun & filament) &Sewing Threads

Fibres Fibre is the starting point of the textile chain.

Fibers or fibres are a class of hair-like materials that

are continuous filaments or are in discrete elongatedpieces, similar to pieces of thread.

First of all, fibre is obtained from the source, which isthen spun into yarn.

Yarn is then woven or knitted into fabric.



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Technical definition of the term textile fibre such asthat of ASTM :

a generic term for any one of the various types of

matter that form the basic elements of a textile andthat is characterized by having a length at least 100times its diameter

fiber: a slender and greatly elongated substancecapable of being spun into yarn



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Filaments

A fiber of an indefinite or extreme length

Fiber which has been extruded and is thenconverted into yarn

Manufactured fibres are usually extruded in filamentform, but the filaments can be cut into shorter, staplelengths

Filaments can be made into yarn with little or notwisting



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Silk is the only natural fibre available in filamentform.

The length of the fiber will have an effect on theappearance of the yarn into which is made.



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Spun Yarns technical term -yarn produced by spinning fibers into a

continuous strand, yarn made from staple fibres

industrial term - Yarn composed of discontinuous fibresusually held together by twist

It is very likely that wool was one of the first fibres to bespun

A staple-spun yarn is a linear assembly of fibres, heldtogether, usually by the insertion of twist, to form acontinuous strand, small in cross section but of anyspecified length



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SEWING THREAD

The term yarn and thread are used interchangeably.

But sewing threads are used for sewing/joining togethersection/parts of garments or other products.

Sewing threads may be made from one or more kinds of fibre.i.e., cotton alone or polyester covered with cotton, rayon.

Except for yarns made from nylon or polyester, single yarnsare not suitable for sewing threads, hence 2 or more plys areused



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Fabrics - Sources

Yarns must be united in some way to form a cohesivestructure.

This can be achieved by

Weaving

Looping Knitting & crocheting

bonding(non-woven)

Lacing

knotting

braiding etc



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Woven Fabrics

It consists of interlacing of yarns.

By varying the interlacing, a wide variety of different fabricconstruction can be made

The lengthwise direction yarns in a woven fabric are calledthe warp yarns or ends

Crosswise horizontal yarns are called weft yarns or picks or

filling yarns.

Warp and weft yarns normally interlace with each other @right angles.



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Looped Fabrics

It consists of fabrics constructed from one or more continuous

yarns by the formation of a series of interconnected loops.

Ex. Knitting & crocheting

Knitting

Is the process of making cloth with a single yarn or set ofyarns moving in only one direction instead of 2 sets of yarn

crossing each other as in weaving.

Single yarn is looped through itself to make a chain of stitches.



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This interlocking can be done by either vertical or horizontalmovement.

When the yarns are introduced in a cross wise direction, at

right angles to the direction of growth of fabricknown as weftknit

When the yarns run lengthwise or up and down known as

warp knit



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Rows of stitches that run in columns along the lengthwisedirection of the fabric are known as wales(corresponds towarp in woven fabrics)

Crosswise rows of stitches or loops are called as course(corresponds to weft in woven fabrics)



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Non-Wovens

It is divided into several broad classifications:

Fabrics made by knotting

By looping

By stitching yarns or fibres together

Bonding together a web of fibres



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Nettingand laceare created by knotting, either by hand or by

machine

Crochet, essentially a hand technique, is made from a seriesof loops in a process that is similar to knitting

A new fabric construction technique, known either as stitchbonding or stitch knitting, combines yarns and/or fibres bysewing them together

Ancient techniques such as felt making or bark clothconstruction are similar in principle to the manufacture ofmodern nonwovens, fibres held together in a flexible web.



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Crochet

Creating fabric by pulling one loop of yarn through anotherwith a hook

Crocheting is closely related to knitting

Crochet is made with a single needle or hook, whereas knittinguses several needles



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Braiding

To have decorative effect and for added strength

Initially used in human hairs - both men and women datedback from prehistoric period

Also applied to other materials such as

long grass and weeds, or

strips of palm or banana leaves which were made as basketsat a very early date.



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Materials for Braiding

Any material which can be made into strips and isflexible can be hand-braided

Grasses

Weeds String

Cord

Paper

Cloth

Leather and even

Thin strips of metalTextile Science -TD Sem III43


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Chinese Knotting



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Textile industry is constituted of the following


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Textile industry is constituted of the followingsegments

Readymade Garments

Cotton Textiles including Handlooms (Millmade /

Powerloom/ Handloom)

Man-made Textiles Silk Textiles

Woollen Textiles Handicrafts including Carpets

Coir Jute

Documents

Textile Science -Session 1