Cast On • February – April 200766

O N Y O U R W A Y T O T H E M A S T E R S

Ribbing increases by vanessa montileone

swatch a swatch b swatch c

swatch d swatch e swatch f

www.TKGA.com 67

Increasing is an integral part of knitting

whether used for shaping or decoration.

There is a plethora of written information

concerning the various increase techniques

but little is written concerning the use of

increases in ribbing. Level 1 of the TKGA

Master Hand Knitting Program asks

that increases be placed in the last row of

ribbing and that they be unobtrusive. In

other words the increases should blend

into the ribbing pattern. Knitters must first

have knowledge of the various increases

and their characteristics before they can

chose which increase is best suited for the

pattern stitch being knitted.

A brief review of four commonly used

increases includes: bar, lifted, make 1 and

yarn over. Some of the increases share

common characteristics. The lifted and

make 1 can slant right or left depending on

how they are executed. This makes them a

good choice when shaping an armhole or

neckline. The lifted and the make 1 are less

visible and work well in stockinette stitch.

The yarn over is an open increase and

produces a hole. It is wonderful when used

in decorative patterns of lace and eyelet.

The bar increase is visible and produces

a bump to the side of the stitch in which

it is made. Planning is the first step to a

beautiful handmade item, and knowing

which increase to use will yield the best

finished result.

Breaking down the Stitches!

Ribbing is a pattern stitch that uses knits

and purls to form smooth and bumpy

vertical lines. The purl stitch naturally

recedes behind the knit stitch and together

they give elasticity to the fabric. The

vertical purl rows are often referred to as

the purl “ditch”. We can also think of the

purl stitches as being in a closet away from

the public. The transition from knit to

purl stitches provides the perfect “closet”

location to hide an increase. Masters

Program level 1 requires swatches of single

and double rib with increases on the last

row. The increases are to be unobtrusive and

evenly spaced. There are many formulas

for figuring how to space increases and a

general rule of thumb is not to increase in

an edge stitch. Increases placed at the edge

form a jagged line that is visible and makes

seaming difficult. What increase would

work best? The make 1, although one of the

least visible in stockinette, does not work

well in ribbing. It creates an open area

under the strand in which the increase is

made. That open area can be visible in the

ribbing. The lifted increase is the second

best increase in ribbing. The lifted increase

is done by knitting into the head of the

stitch below and placing the new loop on

the right needle then knitting the stitch

normally. The lifted increase resembles a

V formation and if not done properly can

leave an open area that is visible.

The bar increase is usually one of the first

increases a knitter learns; it is visible in

stockinette but the best choice in ribbing.

The bar increase is done by knitting into

the front and then the back of one stitch

creating two stitches from one. When the

back of the stitch is knit into, it forms a

bump much like a purl and it hides itself

in the transition between the knit and purl.

It is best to place the increase in the knit

stitch of single rib and in the second knit

stitch of double rib. By placing the bar in

a knit, the bump that is created will blend

into the transition from knit to purl. The

yarn should be pulled tightly so that no

holes are visible and the knit stitch is not

allowed to gather any extra yarn from other

stitches that might increase its size. Extra

yarn in the knit stitch disrupts the tension

leaving the ribbing looking sloppy. The bar

increase can be done in a purl stitch also

by purling into the front and the back of

the stitch. It is best to make increases in

one type of stitch, either knit or purl stitch

increases for continuity. This is especially

true if you have difficulty maintaining

tension when changing from a knit to a

purl. Proper tension is always important,

especially when working different stitches

in a row.

Many times the TKGA Masters Program

committee members who review Masters

submissions see inconsistent tension in

ribbing. Loose stitches in the transition

from knit to purl are sure to be noticed.

Using the bar or lifted increase should

provide good results with the proper

tension. To help alleviate tension problems

it is best to bring the yarn forward tightly

and give a “tug” when changing from knit

to purl. If pulling the yarn tightly does not

give the proper effect another solution is to

continued on page 68

“Never accept the WORD

of any expert without first

checking it out for yourself.”

– Maggie Righetti

Cast On • February – April 200768

continued from page 67

wrap the purl stitch from underneath and

over the top (wrapping clockwise). It must

then be knit through the back loop on the

next row to prevent twisting. This is a last

resort as it is easy to forget the last step and

end up with twisted stitches.

The best result for an unobtrusive increase

will depend on how you knit. Plan spacing

carefully, the bar increase should produce

wonderful results with the lifted increase

following closely. An increase done properly

and paired with poor tension will be like

the “Leaning tower of Pisa” – A great work

of art with a unstable base!

Swatch Explanation

All Swatches were made using Lamb’s Pride

Worsted weight on size 8us/5mm needle.

All increases were done on the last row

of ribbing per the Masters Program

instructions.

Swatch A: Single Rib –Bar Increase

Swatch B: Double Rib – Bar Increase

Swatch C: Single Rib – Lifted Increase

Swatch D: Double Rib – Lifted Increase

Swatch E: Single Rib – Make 1 left slant

Swatch F: Single Rib – Inconsistent Ribbing

tension with Bar Increase

Resources:

Buss, Katharina, Big Book of Knitting.

Sterling Publishing Co., Inc. 1999.

Fisher, Margaret, “On Your Way to the

Masters-Hand” Cast On, Winter 1999

Hiatt, June Hemmons, The Principles of

Knitting. Simon & Schuster. 1988.

Lampe, Jean “Increasing: More of a Good

Thing Part I” Interweave Knits, Fall 2001

p.86-88. “Increasing: More of a Good

Thing Part II” Interweave Knits, Winter

01/02 p.62-63.

Melville, Sally, The Purl Stitch, XRX, Inc,

2003.

Vogue Knitting Editors. Vogue Knitting.

Pantheon Books, 1989.

Wiseman, Nancie, The Knitter’s Book

of Finishing Techniques. Martingale &

Company 2002.

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