The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Sunny South, by John William ClaytonThis eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and mostother parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictionswhatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms ofthe Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online atwww.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll haveto check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook.Title: The Sunny SouthAn Autumn in Spain and MajorcaAuthor: John William ClaytonRelease Date: July 19, 2015 [EBook #49491]Language: EnglishCharacter set encoding: UTF-8*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE SUNNY SOUTH ***

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[Illustration: DISTANT VIEW OF BARCELONA. FROM A DRAWINGBY THE AUTHOR.]

THE SUNNY SOUTH.AN AUTUMNIN SPAIN AND MAJORCA.[Illustration: The Dragonera Rock, Majorca. From a Drawingby the Author.]BYCAPTAIN J. W. CLAYTON, F.R.G.S.,LATE 13TH HUSSARS.

LONDON:HURST AND BLACKETT, PUBLISHERS,13, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET.1869._The Right of Translation is reserved._

[Illustration: [++] Decorative Image]THE SUNNY SOUTH.[Illustration: [++] Decorative Image]

[Illustration: [++] Decorative Image]I INSCRIBE THIS BOOKTOISABEL AND HAROLD,IN THE HOPE THAT THESE PASSAGES IN THE TRAVEL-LIFE OFTHEIR FATHER MAY BE SOME DAY NOT WITHOUTINTEREST TO THEM.[Illustration: [++] Decorative Image]

[Illustration: [++] Decorative Image]CONTENTS.CHAPTER I.FOLLOWERS OF MAXIMILIAN OF MEXICO.--HAVRE DE GRCE.--ROUEN.--THECATHEDRAL.--INFLUENCE OF SACRED MUSIC.--HEART OF RICHARD I. OFENGLAND.--ANCIENT QUARTERS OF ROUEN.--MOUNT ST CATHERINE.--THESEINE.--NORMAN PEASANT GIRLS.--LISIEUX.--STOPPAGE AT MEZIDON

1

CHAPTER II.LE MANS.--ANCIENT CITY BY NIGHT.--THE LUXURY OF BATHING.--CATHEDRALOF ST. JULIEN.--TOURS.--POITIERS.--ANGOULME.--BORDEAUX.--EN ROUTEFOR BAYONNE.--A MERCANTILE DEFAULTER.--A LONELY REGION.--HOTELINTERIOR.--INGENIOUS INVENTION.--TABLE D'HTE16CHAPTER III.

THE CITADEL.--BIARRITZ.--HOW THE VISITORS KILL TIME.--EN ROUTE FORSPAIN.--ST. JEAN DE LUZ.--HENDAYE.--THE BIDASSOA CROSSED.--WINTERIN SPAIN.--IRUN.--CUSTOM-HOUSE OFFICIALS.--ST. SEBASTIAN.--THEALAMEDA PROMENADE.--THE PLAIN OF VITTORIA34CHAPTER IV.BURGOS.--THE FONDA DEL NORTE.--THE ODOUR OF SANCTITY.--SPANISHCHARACTERISTICS.--SCENES IN THE STREETS.--THE CONVENT OF LACARTUJA.--TOMB OF JUAN AND ISABELLA.--THE CASTLE.--THE CID.--THECATHEDRAL.--HOW PRIESTS MAKE MONEY

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CHAPTER V.AGAIN ON THE RAIL.--VALLADOLID.--THE FONDA DEL SIGLO DE ORO.--THECOLEGIO MAYOR DE SANTA CRUZ.--CONVENT INTERIOR.--CHAMBER OFHORRORS.--COLEGIO DE SAN GREGORIO.--THE CATHEDRAL.--SPANISHCHARACTERISTICS.--THE THEATRE.--USE OF TOBACCO80CHAPTER VI.EN ROUTE FOR MADRID.--TYPES OF NATIONAL CHARACTER.--GEOLOGICALCONNECTION OF SPAIN AND AFRICA.--A STATION IN THEWILDERNESS.--AVILA.--A FUNERAL.--THE GUADARRAMA HILLS.--THEADUANEROS.--MADRID.--HOTEL DE LOS PRINCIPES.--PUERTA DEL SOL

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CHAPTER VII.MADRID.--GREAT ENGINEERING FEAT.--THE PICTURE-GALLERY.--PASTIMESAND OCCUPATIONS OF THE MADRILEOS.--THE BATH AND TOILET.--QUEENISABEL AND THE KING CONSORT.--THE VIRGIN'S WARDROBE.--THE ROYALARMERIA.--REMARKABLE PAINTINGS.--CHURCH IN THE CALLE DE TOLEDO122CHAPTER VIII.THE ESCORIAL.--ITS PRECINCTS.--SPIRIT AND CHARACTER OF THEEDIFICE.--MAUSOLEUM OF THE KINGS OF SPAIN.--MELANCHOLYGUIDE.--SUBTERRANEAN PASSAGES.--ROYAL REMAINS.--CHARLES V.--PHILIPII.--THE PLAZA MAYOR OF MADRID.--QUEEN ISABELLA AT THE OPERA142CHAPTER IX.A BULL-FIGHT.--THE ARENA.--THE SPECTATORS.--PROCESSION.--THEBULL.--APPEARANCE OF THE MEN AND HORSES.--NIMBLE FOOTMEN.--THECOMBAT.--SCENE OF HORROR.--THE BANDERILLEROS.--THE ESPADA.--DEATHOF THE BULL158CHAPTER X.TOLEDO.--VIEW OF THE CITY.--THE CATHEDRAL.--PROCESS OFSMOKE-DRYING.--ALMANZA.--VALENCIA.--THE FONDA DE MADRID.--ABENEVOLENT DOCTOR.--SPANISH MULETEERS.--HOW CONTROVERSIES ARESETTLED

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CHAPTER XI.VOYAGE TO THE BALEARES.--MAJORCA--PALMA DE MALLORCA.--OURAPPREHENSION.--FONDA DE LAS TRES PALOMAS.--HISTORICALNOTICES.--DON JAYME.--THE RAMBLA.--COSTUME.--LANGUAGE.--CLIMATE.--CHARACTER OF THE PEOPLE196CHAPTER XII.THE VALE OF SOLLER.--INTRODUCTION OF THE TELEGRAPH.--SUPERSTITIONOF THE PEASANTRY.--PRODUCTIONS OF THE ISLAND.--THE ROAD.--GUARDIACIVIL.--OBLIGING LANDLADY.--BRIDGE OF LA M.--BATTLE WITH THETURKS219CHAPTER XIII.THE PORT OF SOLLER.--CONVENT OF LLUCH.--A LEGEND OF THEMONASTERY.--CATHEDRAL OF PALMA.--REMAINS OF KING JAYMEII.--ATTRACTIONS OF THE BALEARIC ISLES.--MINORCA.--ITS CONNECTIONWITH ENGLISH HISTORY237CHAPTER XIV.HOW TO STUDY SPANISH CHARACTER.--BULL-FIGHTS.--PROVISION FOR THESPIRITUAL WELFARE OF BULL-FIGHTERS.--FIGHT BETWEEN AN ELEPHANTAND A BULL.--EXPEDITION TO THE CAVES OF ART249CHAPTER XV.CONSIDERATIONS ON SANITARY MATTERS.--THE MEDICAL PROFESSION INSPAIN.--THE ART OF PACKING.--NIGHT SIGNALS.--EL GRAO.--CHASSE AUXCALEONS ROUGES.--VALENCIA.--DRIVE THROUGH THE CITY.--THECATHEDRAL267CHAPTER XVI.DEPARTURE FROM VALENCIA.--A RAILWAY JOURNEY.--DIFFICULTIES TOWHICH TRAVELLERS ARE EXPOSED.--TARRAGONA.--SKETCHES OF ITSHISTORY.--ARRIVAL AT BARCELONA

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CHAPTER XVII.BARCELONA.--HISTORICAL REMINISCENCES.--CASTLE OF MONJUICH.--THECATHEDRAL.--THE GRAND OPERA.--THE PLAZA DE TOROS.--THE LITTLEROPE-WALKER.--MONTSERRAT

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CHAPTER XVIII.ANCIENT BRIDGE OF GERONA.--THE POPULATION.--A FIESTA.--SEARCHFOR AN HOTEL.--THE FONDA DE LA ESTRELLA.--LAST SIEGE OFGERONA.--THE CATHEDRAL.--A FEW CONCLUDING WORDS ON SPAIN

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[Illustration: [++] Decorative Image]

CHAPTER I.FOLLOWERS OF MAXIMILIAN OF MEXICO.--HAVRE DE GRCE.--ROUEN.--THECATHEDRAL.--INFLUENCE OF SACRED MUSIC.--HEART OF RICHARD I. OFENGLAND.--ANCIENT QUARTERS OF ROUEN.--MOUNT ST. CATHERINE.--THESEINE.--NORMAN PEASANT GIRLS.--LISIEUX.--STOPPAGE AT MEZIDON.It was almost at the last moment when, after having bid farewell to allour friends, we found ourselves on board the steamer that was to takeus from England on an autumn tour to the sunny south. There was greatnoise and bustle on deck; the friends of the departing passengers hadall left the ship, and in a few minutes the anchor was weighed.It was yet early morning, and the sun was rising with great brilliancein the east; but his appearance was only momentary, for while we wererejoicing in the prospect of a beautiful sunlit day, he suddenlywithdrew from our sight, and hid his glorious visage behind a thickcloud. So unexpected was his obscuration, that we could almost havefancied he had covered his face with a veil to conceal from his sighta scene of unexampled squalor and misery that lay heaped upon thefore-deck. A band of fifty followers of the unfortunate Maximilian ofMexico, who had landed in England a day or two before, were now beingwafted by a friendly breeze, not the less welcome that it came so late,towards their homes, with simply nothing left to them but their lives.Without other clothing than a few parti-coloured rags, which but ashort time back had composed the gay panoply of war, clinging to theirfestering bodies, without that glory which, in the lack of every otherreward, is often sufficient to compensate soldiers for having left thehappy hearths of their homes and the loving eyes of their kindred,these sons of fair-haired Austria were slowly returning, feeble inbody and broken down in spirit, to their fatherland, carrying withthem the mortifying recollection of a shameful defeat at the hands ofa distant, half-barbarous race whom they had despised, and with thedestruction of health for life, the loss of limbs, and the blightingof hopes which they had once nourished. Such were the subjects, suchthe colours, which composed this little illustrative picture of thepomp and circumstance of glorious war. Those young soldiers, all ofwhom were either suffering from wounds or prostrated by sickness, werestanding on the deck in haggard groups, chatting about their nativeplace, about the home of their youth, or about the plans which theyintended to carry out when they arrived there. A few were groaning withpain, some of them suffering so severely as to be almost insensible towhat was passing around them. Others who were in a comparatively soundcondition were laughing and dancing, forgetting with the light spiritof soldiers both what they themselves had endured, and the anguish oftheir suffering comrades. The garb of all was in the most miserable andtattered condition, showing how soon the gaudy uniform of the soldieris tarnished in the tug of actual war. Falstaff's wretched band offollowers did not exhibit more diversity in the colour and fashion oftheir habiliments than did these followers of an imperial prince.One poor ragged wretch in a darkly stained red jacket, with a wisp

of clotted canvas round his head, lay on his back helpless, withoutarms or legs, and totally blind. A cannon had burst close to him, andinflicted on him those injuries which must render him henceforwarddependent on the bounty and kindness of others. I was informed thathis mental sufferings from seeing himself reduced to such a miserablecondition were so severe that they had partially affected his mind, andsome fears were entertained that he might never recover the use of hisfaculties. His, in fact, was one of those cases in which mental eclipsewould almost be the greatest of mercies. It was sad to see the poorfellow moving the stumps of his arms to and fro like fishes' fins, asthey appeared to me; while from time to time some rough comrade tendedhim gently, and fed him like an infant.These men, the followers of an emperor, were the intended regeneratorsof a barbarous state, the agents of the bright spirit of civilization;and what was their state now as they lay there, prostrate in filth,overcome by sorrow, suffering from wounds, and overrun with vermin?They were all swathed in the foul old clothes they had begged by theway, or tricked out in faded remnants of old uniforms, some of themspotted with blood, and others, that had perhaps belonged to officers,covered with rusty patches of gold lace. It is always a sad sightto see misery like this that one cannot relieve, and we were gladwhen our eyes no longer rested on such illustrations of the pomp andcircumstance of glorious war. We came across them afterwards at Havre,enclosed in a sort of sheep-pen at a railway station. The mob werejeering at them through the railings, and the gentle passed them with asigh.After a pleasant passage, we glided quickly into the port of Havre, andlanded amidst a jargon of bad English and worse French, the BritishCockney preferring to explain all manner of difficulties in a foreigntongue, however imperfectly understood, while the cocked-hattedindividual whom he addressed manfully persisted in his endeavours tomake everything intelligible in his own peculiar mode of speakingthe English language. Here at Le Havre, all good little boys andgirls should remember, Bernardin de St. Pierre, the author of "Pauland Virginia" was born; also Casimir Delavigne. Here, too, Henrythe Seventh embarked _en route_ for Bosworth Field; and close by isHonfleur, where most of the new-laid eggs that one gets in London comefrom. Two thousand dozen are despatched per week to England.Delightful old Rouen, city of a hundred memories, sitting by thewinding waters of the Seine, which glide like memories away! Wherecan we go now-a-days, in this blessed nineteenth century, to see acity so complete an embodiment of the past? Perhaps Pompeii; certainlynot the boulevards, the gas-lit streets, and the flaming shops of thegenerality of French towns. However, there before us is the gloriousold cathedral, the handiwork of our Norman ancestors, defying shocks,storms, and time. The Gothic faade, the impression produced by whichis so imposing, is a miracle of profuse lace-work petrified; and thedark towers and pinnacles, which rise high over all, are so richlyornamented as to resemble filigree work.We lift a heavy curtain, and facing us as we enter, motionless, ona high stool placed in a corner, sits an awful creature, completelydraped in a costume of coarse black serge, with bent head deeplyveiled. It seems some living thing from a few low moans which issueoccasionally from underneath the drapery, but otherwise is withoutform, though it can scarcely be called void. A pale skeleton handnevertheless now and then slowly turns from one side to another a tin

box full of copper coins. Throughout the live-long days, year afteryear, sits this dismal-looking being, concealing, it may be, beneaththat dark veil and hood, some mystery which excites a painfully intensecuriosity as one stands in its presence amongst the tombs and gloom ofthe old cathedral.The grand Gothic arches are lofty and beautifully proportioned, meetingabove and lessening away into perspective, like the great avenue ofsome old forest of an earlier world, with its stems and foliage nowturned into everlasting stone. The large rose-windows let in from theday without floods of rich and mellow lights, colouring the dim, heavyair with a splendid diversity of hue. The chaunt of gaudily-robedpriests rises upward with the pomp and incense of High Mass, and adark crowd kneels on the cold stones which cover the bones of ancientchivalry. No language can describe the elevation of feeling which oneexperiences as he treads these solemn aisles where generations ofworshippers have in succession raised their thoughts to Heaven. Asthe organ peals forth its solemn notes we feel inspired by the spiritof devotion, and are sensible of that diviner principle within uswhich carries the thoughts of man beyond the bounds of time and space.We have heard organs innumerable, but never have we listened to onewhich produced such an effect as that of which we were sensible on theoccasion in question. A perfect storm of passion seemed to be sweptfrom the great pipes, and when that was succeeded by the soft strainsof the _voix cleste_, one felt as if he were yielding to the gentleinfluence of some radiant presence, not of this, but of a better world.When men can produce such music, we may naturally ask if the spirits ofthe departed are near, quickening the soul of the unconscious musicianwith a spark of the music-spirit of a higher world? This may beconsidered by many as wild talk; but there are still some human beingswho, at least once in their lives, have felt a strain of melody fallwith entrancing power upon their hearts, inspiring diviner thoughtsthan they had ever known before, and so subliming the feelings, thatfor a time they felt a consciousness of their heavenly origin. He whohas never experienced an enthusiasm like this can have no soul formusic, but must be entirely of the earth, earthy--"only a clod."Near the high altar the lion-heart of Richard I. of England was buried.It is now in a very shrunken state, enclosed in a casket, and keptin the museum. It was left as a legacy to Rouen, for which favour nodoubt the good inhabitants have been very grateful up to the presenthour. His body is in the undisturbed possession of the population ofFontevrault.Notwithstanding all the modern improvements which have swept away mostof ancient Rouen, there still remain some wonderful old quarters, wherethe crazy wooden houses of centuries back nod towards each other, ina general state of paralysis, across the dark and narrow streets. Howthey manage to stand at all, leaning upon one another for support,is a mystery; and why they don't sit down bodily upon their occupantsis a subject of painful speculation to those good people. It is mostinteresting to wander in the nooks and corners of this solemn old city;and if the visitor loses his way in the narrow old streets, he maycome unexpectedly upon some venerable remnant of antiquity. In manyparts every turn reveals some splendid relic of bygone days, of an ageof cross-bows, of processions headed by men-at-arms bearing namingbraziers through the dark streets, of gallant companies of splendiddames, and flaunting cavaliers in slashed doublets, trunk hose, andinconveniently long swords, all flashing and clanking in the glare asthey pass; of an age of night broils, when the clash of arms was heard

beneath the dark tower, grated window, and overhanging eaves. Withinthat ancient palace, ploughed and seamed from gabled roof to the carvedmonsters on the balustrades beneath, with one rich mass of floridGothic fretwork, armorial bearings, and quaint gargoyles, we might seethe cruel Cardinal of Winchester pacing to and fro in the oak-panelledhall, fretting that the preparations in the square outside, for theburning of Jeanne d'Arc, were proceeding so slowly as to make him latefor dinner.Of course we are not going to describe Rouen and its wonderfularchitectural remains, nor conjure up visions of mailed Norman chiefs,nursed in war, whose unscrupulous will and iron hearts, backed by themoral weight of great warrior prelates, enforced submission upon allraces between Normandy and the far East, from their stern old capitalat Rouen. Tempting as is the subject, we have no intention of enteringupon any disquisition regarding the vigorous race who founded the city,or of describing the antiquarian relics of which it possesses so rich astore.It is pleasant to ascend the Mont St. Catherine, and look down uponthe fine old town, with its broken walls and ramparts, which havewitnessed the gallant struggles of the stout hearts of earlier days,which opposed the onset of Henry V. of England and Henry of Navarre,now overgrown with hoar moss or buried in labyrinths of modern streets,with scarce a thought bestowed upon the past of those mighty chiefswho in old times assailed or defended them--men who, by their deeds,laid the foundations of modern history. It is pleasant to see and feelthe solemn air of repose or gentle majesty which hangs over the moresilent streets where still stand those time-honoured buildings, thefortresses, palaces, and convents, with piles of toppling planks andwooden turrets, witnesses of ancient story and actors in its variedscenes. There, from the midst of the venerable city, spire up to thelevel of the wood-crowned heights surrounding Rouen, the frettedpinnacles of the cathedral towers, and beneath them the gables ofGothic houses pierce the air, while afar off the silver windings of theSeine, studded with green islets, lose themselves in the mist whichhangs in the distance, seaward.In the city below died the simple-minded, heroic, and betrayed Maidof Orleans. There, forsaken by his own sons, and his menials even, inagony and neglect, William, the Conqueror of England, and of our SaxonHarold, departed this life. There died also the great Clarendon; andthere Corneille and Boieldieu were born.It is pleasant to look at all this from afar, but very unpleasantto be in the midst thereof; for it is a remarkable fact, alikeobservable in Cologne as in Rouen, that the more historical thecity, the more horrible the smells. Coleridge counted in the formercity a certain and distinct number of odours vile; we wonder to whatnumerals his inquiring nose would have extended itself at Rouen. Theprevailing type of flavour in the latter city seems to be a compoundof extra-sour vinegar, stale slop pails, and burnt india-rubber. Itis also unpleasant to be ferried over a rapid river in a thing like aworn-out gondola, with several holes in the direction of the keel, theportentous effects of which the strenuous baling powers of two men witha sardine box and a coffee cup could scarcely allay. It was, however,observed of us before we embarked, by a funny friend who accompaniedus, and whose miserable puns often made us melancholy, that if wetrusted ourselves to such a craft we should be _in Seine_.

No one in these parts, excepting idiots or princes, being in the habitof travelling in a first-class carriage, we started in a second (wemean no pun) _en route_ for Le Mans, in the fresh and healthy societyof some young Norman peasant girls. No abominable chignon disfiguredthe backs of their neat little heads, for there was no necessitywith them to shine with borrowed plumes. Their smooth hair was neatlyarranged beneath the small linen cap of snowy white, while a stripedkerchief was drawn modestly across the breast. "There is no joy withoutalloy," however, and certainly the old peasant woman up in the corner,with a bottle of red acid liquor and a stout staff of bread--the realstaff of life--guarding-like a halberdier the well-closed windows, didnot strike the eye as anything peculiarly attractive, excepting perhapsat times, when, from the red acid which she occasionally imbibed, herface took a sympathetic tone, and being completely encircled by herlarge frill, produced an effect which a rather extravagant imaginationmight regard as something like that of the setting sun in a nightcap.The girls were young--_she_, doubtless, at some time or other hadbeen so too; but grey moustaches are not generally associated withany distinct type of beauty in ladies. Notwithstanding the aforesaidhead-gear she certainly could not be pronounced _cap_-tivating as ourpunning friend said and, wonderful to say, she knew it!Our train passed through Lisieux, where Henry II. was married toEleanor of Guienne, and where the modern inhabitants are chieflyemployed in the manufacture of horse clothing and general flannelry.Near this not very striking town, M. Guizot spends his summer months,and in it, by-the-by, Thomas Becket passed his banishment in 1169.About four o'clock P.M. our train turned us out high and dry, bag andbaggage, on to a lonely wooden platform in the midst of a dreary flattract of country, compared with which Cambridgeshire is extremely steepand alpine."O sommes-nous donc?" asked we." Mezidon, m'sieu," said an official. "Deux heures d'attente."We immediately left our luggage with this trusty man, set our watchesby the clocks of the _gare_, pulled our hats with determination on toour heads, and walked desperately four miles straight along a dustyhigh road, then turned round and walked four miles back; by which timethe train was ready to start again.[Illustration: [++] Decorative Image]

CHAPTER II.LE MANS.--ANCIENT CITY BY NIGHT.--THELUXURY OF BATHING.--CATHEDRAL OF ST.JULIEN.--TOURS.--POITIERS.--ANGOULME.--BORDEAUX.--EN ROUTEFOR BAYONNE.--A MERCANTILE DEFAULTER.--A LONELY REGION.--HOTELINTERIOR.--INGENIOUS INVENTION.--TABLE D'HTE.At midnight Le Mans was reached, amidst a deluge of rain and aninsufficiency of street lamps. Gas, we believe, has found its way toJerusalem, but not to Le Mans; and yet Le Mans is a large and importanttown, blessed with an enlightened and despotic government.

After settling ourselves, to our extreme inconvenience, in a vehiclelike an opera-box drawn side-ways by a horse and bells, we bumped andjingled slowly on through long, dark streets, the houses in which wereall so large and gloomy that they looked like prisons, and in whichthere appeared to be a general flushing of sewers.Le Mans may or may not be the "trodden ground" our critics complainof, but we are quite sure it was not so when we arrived there, fornot a living thing was seen in the great black town save a benightedcat or two and one very ancient rag-picker. A more forsaken anddeserted-looking place could not be imagined--no, not even byDaniel the Prophet, with all his experience of "the abomination ofdesolation," &c.The grey light of the skies showed us at last a great square openingbefore us, with a lofty stone building like a war tower rising dark inthe midst. We stopped at an inn door in this square, and descended,the opera-box making a vigorous plunge to assist us in the operation.Repeated pulls at a cracked bell, which sounded dismally in some remotedepth of the old house, eventually produced the effect desired, for arattling of chains was heard, and then the heavy door swung slowly onits hinges, sufficiently to admit of the protrusion of a man's head.The head came out as far as the shoulders, and nothing more ghastlycould be conceived, as for a few seconds it remained there motionlessand isolated against the black background, like the decapitated skullof some malefactor nailed to a gibbet, the face gleaming deadly inthe uncertain night-light. The dreary silence of the dark square wasbroken only by the lonely cry of some distant watchman, pacing the oldstreets here and there with a dull lamp, which served to deepen stillmore the darkness beyond, whilst, high, gaunt, and spectral against thedull grey air, loomed the fortress-like building. A gigantic lightedclock was poised on a high tower, the long hands thereof making greatleaps of five minutes each along the dial, as if it were dozing,and then suddenly waking and making up for lost time by desperatestrides. In fact, to anyone who had recently supped upon pork chops,or to the cheerful mind of the late lamented Mrs. Anne Radcliffe, ofraw-head-and-bare-bones memory, this old tower and its clock mighthave appeared as the Ogre Time, or some huge Cyclopean ghoul of night,watching and gloating, with its burning eye, over the surely passinghours of the thousand slumberers lying for a season sweetly unconsciousof the fleeting of life beneath, and counting each heave of breathwhich as it passes must bring all nearer and nearer to its maw.The waiter who belonged to the head before mentioned turned out to bea most excellent young man, and, in his assiduous exertions to makehimself agreeable to apparently the first British traveller he hadever beheld, danced about like an electrified frog. Indeed, we weregrateful enough for this very sprightliness of his, for it acted as acorrective to the depressing effect of the entire establishment, whichwas pervaded by an air of dull, forlorn gloom. The walls appeared tobe constantly in tears. The long cavernous passages and mysteriouscorridors were made doubly dark by the sulky gleam of a consumptive"short ten." The lofty bedrooms were provided with beds which hadtoo close a resemblance to four-post hearses, and their furniture ingeneral had too much of the faded grandeur of other days. The oldwooden staircases creaked audibly before we began to walk upon them,as if some invisible ghost of a dead housemaid were waiting to show usup to bed, and when we ventured upon them we found they were leaningalarmingly on one side. We endeavoured as well as we could to keep in

the middle, but they were so unsteady that their movement produced asensation like that of mild intoxication or incipient sea-sickness.We were not without dread lest, supposing the balustrades showed equalsigns of weakness, we might, if we did not hug the wall and coast alongit very carefully, be shovelled neck and crop into the abyss below. Cananyone wonder, therefore, that in such a place we were grateful forthe sprightliness of our waiter, whose good spirits and lively anticsprevented us from indulging in depressing thoughts? Variety of anykind is pleasing. Who has not heard of the gentleman who got into sucha depressed condition of mind from attending the debates in the Houseof Lords and the burlesques at the London theatres, that, with theview of obtaining a little beneficial change, he took occasional walksin Brompton Cemetery, attended executions at the Old Bailey, or paidfrequent visits to an anatomical museum? It was the same gentleman whowas said always to carry an umbrella with an ivory death's-head as thehandle, who had a velvet coat made from a piece of his wife's pall, andwho took to singing the songs of Claribel.Le Mans is a grand old town, stately, but mouldy and only half alive.Throughout there is happily an absence of that white garish Parisianelement. No whitewash, gilded railings, or sculptured gewgaws offendthe genius of the spot. The solemn old houses and walls stand lookingdown on the quiet streets as sadly as on that day when the last remnantof the gallant Vendean army under Larochejaquelein, wearied with thetoils of long campaigns, was cut to pieces beneath them in the year1793. The face of the old town seems as sorrowful now as when theshrieks of dying women and children, remorselessly slaughtered beforeit by the conquering Republicans, died away upon the air, on that daywhen cannonades of grape and volleys of musketry swept through all thestreets, among a helpless crowd of the wretched wives and little onesof the scattered Royalists, of whom ten thousand corpses lay red inthat awful sunset.In the early morning we nearly frightened to death some good citizensby bathing in the river Sarthe, and several crowded to the bank towitness the last gasps of two insane victims to the love of ablution.It was a fine warm day in September, yet the idea to them seemedmadness. However, this little adventure brought to light what Diogeneshad so long sought for--an honest man. As we were drying ourselves onthe river bank, beneath the shadows of the old cathedral on the heightabove, a passer-by in course of conversation observed,-"_Pour moi, messieurs_, I detest water--never touch it--_ni chaude, nifroide_."Now we like this blunt truthfulness, so much better than the big talkof some people respecting their tubs and baths, who yet never go nearthem. We remember, upon one occasion, in a country house there was agentleman who was always talking about the luxury of "tubbing," andwhose constant refrain was, "What a brute a man must be who doesn'ttub," &c. Being the occupant of the adjoining room to us, we happened,quite by accident, one fine morning, upon hearing a tremendoussplashing and dashing, to look through the key-hole, and discovered,much to our astonishment, our friend standing up, half dressed, inknickerbockers, shirt, and diamond pin, squeezing a sponge into atin bath, and shouting in a very loud whisper (which would have madehis fortune in an "aside" on the stage), as if overpowered with thefreshness of the water, "Oh! how delightful! By Jove, how cold! Ahi!phew! a--h! oh!"

The cathedral of St. Julien is a grand, imposing Gothic structure, greywith the hoar of age. Its lofty towers, which are so richly ornamentedthat they appear as if covered with fretwork, hang at a great elevationabove the city, crowning a height. In it we found the monument ofBerengaria of Sicily, Queen of Richard I. of England, and the tomb ofCharles of Anjou.Le Mans has the honour of having given birth to Henry II., thefirst Plantagenet king of England; and we suppose we ought here tomention, what every one on earth must know, that his father Geoffroialways wore in his cap a sprig of gent, or broom, which growsluxuriantly throughout Maine and Anjou, and hence the name of a race ofkings--Plante-a-gent.From Le Mans we took the railway to Tours. Upon nearing that city wepassed an old red chteau, where Louis XI. shut himself up, dreading,like Oliver Cromwell and many great criminals, daily assassination.Gates within gates, castle within castle, like a remarkably strongChinese ball-puzzle; such is the interior. On a plain near Tours--anold story--Charles Martel beat the Saracens in 731. No one writes onTours who does not say, "If the Saracens had beaten Charles Martel, weshould all be keeping harems, smoking tchibouques, and praying on bitsof square carpets, or, whenever we had a moment or two to spare, onturnpike roads," &c.After we had passed Tours the country was flat, ugly, and veryuninteresting. Poitiers, which we reached in due course, is apicturesque, battlemented old town, built on the tops of precipices,the sides of hills, rocks, and ravines, with green slopes, gardens,and river. We say nothing about the Black Prince, Lord Chandos, andKing John, at the battle of Poitiers. We wonder, indeed, if they wereever there; for was there not a man who once wrote a book to prove thatthere had been no such person as Napoleon?After passing Angoulme, at which we stopped for a short interval,it became too dark to see or read, and we tried to sleep; but soondiscovered what a quantity of hitherto unknown and extraordinary bumpsand sharp angles the human form possesses. In spite, however, of ourdiscomforts, the train rattled on, and we arrived at Bordeaux. After agood night's rest, the disagreeable effects of our journey disappeared;and getting up fresh and active in the morning, we set out to explorethe city. But what did we see? Docks, _et prterea nihil_!As we were taking our seats in the train for Bayonne, we perceivedin the next carriage to us, guarded by three gendarmes, a pale,middle-aged man of gentle exterior, at whom several persons at thecarriage window were hurling execrations. Being unfortunate in themanagement of his affairs, he had attempted to maintain his positionby means which brought him within the clutch of the law, and theconsequence was loss and ruin, not only to himself, but also to manywho had placed entire confidence in his integrity. Now, doubtless, heregretted his folly, and formed many good intentions as to the future;but, alas, several years must pass over before he can put them intopractice, and when he emerges once more into life, the world will laughto scorn the fine sentiments of a man out of jail, and, securelymailed in the panoply of their own good luck,--we beg its pardon, highmorality,--politely refer him to an observation of Seneca's:--"Quid estturpius quam senex vivere incipiens?"[1]However, every proverb has its reverse, "Ogni medaglia ha il suo

reverso;" and against Seneca we can pit Mr. Charles Reade, who thinksit "never too late to mend."We were roused from our reverie by a voice exclaiming, "En voiture,messieurs!" and at the same time the whistle screamed, the bell rang,and that great leveller, the railway train, glided off. In a fewminutes the spires and masts of Bordeaux had passed away, and with themevery vestige of the bustle and clang of busy life. How strange itseemed that in so short a time we should have dashed into the midst oflonely regions where the tracks of civilization seemed all but lost!Onwards we scoured, over the desolate Landes, over brown tracklessmoor, and through the gloom of forests. The leaden heavens seemedstagnant and dead, and indeed a ray of sunlight or gleam of warmth insuch a scene would seem but a mockery to the heart. On, through desertplaces where the wild bird and solitary wood-cutter alone quicken thedeadness of the silent wastes which spread away in dark expanse to thehorizon. Far and wide no life is seen, and no sign thereof, save anoccasional group of wretched hovels buried in the recesses of the blackwoods, which are perceived only for a moment through a storm-torn gapas we fly along and then are gone, leaving the wilderness again in allits dead stillness under the fading light of the dreary skies.The lights of Bayonne at length gladly broke upon us as the eveningdarkened, and in a short time we were rattling with horse and bellsthrough the heavy stone gates, and over the moats and drawbridges ofthe city walls. The old narrow streets, with their tall houses coveredwith balconies, lattices, and coloured blinds, were a foretaste ofthose to be seen in Spain. The rows of lighted shops, beneath heavy lowarcades built of hewn stone, and supported by stout pillars, brown withage, were all crowded with busy passengers, garbed with sash, velvetbreech, and bonnet. The bright cafs--filled with loungers, smallpoliticians, and trim waiters, with their hair mowed to the roots--wereshedding on the roadway floods of yellow light.On we rattled, over roads not paved yesterday, if ever paved at all,amidst bumping and jingling, forced to listen from time to time toperiodic fits of shocking language addressed to the smoking horses,gay in coloured trappings, and trotting us merrily along. Now we divedinto a narrow alley, black as pitch darkness could make it. Then wetwisted out of it so sharply, round a corner, that, had our hair notbeen carefully oiled, it would have stood on end, and emerged into awide street full of gas lamps, illuminated windows, and rows of brightgreen little trees, trimmed so artificially that they had as littleresemblance to their natural growing congeners as those in a child'sNoah's ark. It was pleasant, after our dreary day's journey, to findourselves thus hurrying, in the brilliant flare of the night lamps,through a most picturesque old town, over bridges from which we couldsee in the rapid waters below the twinkling reflection of a hundredlights, along streets in which we passed companies of soldiers marchingto the music of drums and bugles, and through busy quays all alive withbustle and loaded with merchandise. In fact,"The city gates were opened; the market, all aliveWith buyers and with sellers, was humming like a hive;Blithely on brass and timber the craftsman's stroke was ringing;And blithely o'er her panniers the peasant girl was singing."And "blithely" we eventually entered the Hotel * * *, and sat down toa remarkably good dinner of fresh sardines, wild boar, _pat de foiede canard_, and a dish of _beccaficoes_. "Our bore," the inevitable

Cockney across the table, fired off a sickly joke at the expense ofthose little birds, to the effect that, if we had never yet eaten_beccaficoes_, we ought-to-learn (_ortolan_). Now really! Oh! who canminister to the "mind diseased" that produces such monstrosities?The hotel was a great square house, with a wonderful collection of keyson a board by the entrance door, as if they had been fired there likegrape-shot out of a gun. The passages and staircases were liberallysupplied by day with sand and saliva, and by night with cockroaches ofremarkable size. Hanging on the walls of the _salle--manger_ wereadvertisements of bull-fights to come off in various towns of Spain,and also others of various hotels in different countries. There was oneof a boarding-house in Weymouth Street, Portland Place, London, witha picture of the same. Now we do not wish to set up as art-critics,but merely state that we have once or twice in the course of our liveshad occasion to find ourselves in that salubrious district, but don'tremember noticing any detached house or Italian villa in a park, withpalm trees waving over it, and a plantain in full growth. There wasanother picture of a hotel in Granada, with the Moors walking about thestreets and conversing with the waiters at the door, as if Abderrhamanwas still residing in Spain.In the courtyard of our inn a fountain was playing, and a vine formed alarge shady arbour for smokers and idlers beneath. There was not muchto complain of, and notwithstanding the general smell of garlic, andan odour resembling that of steamboat cabins, with which the bedroomswere perfumed, we slept most comfortably for a short time with calmconsciences and clean sheets, gratefully manufacturing a proverb forthe occasion, to the effect that fine feathers make fine beds, tosay nothing of good housemaids. We even glided into dreams, in whichwe held conversations with individuals of every possible complexion,dressed in scarlet Scotch bonnets, velveteen jackets, broken out intoa nettle-rash of metal buttons, red sashes, breeches, and hose, inBasque, Spanish, French, English, and all sorts of patois, all at once,and with incredible ease, coherence, and velocity. We say we sleptmost comfortably for a short time, and one must have been very deaf,or stolid, or philosophical,--in a word, insensible to all sorts ofdisturbance,--to have slept comfortably after 2 A.M. in such a place.For diligence after diligence coming from somewhere or other, and goingin the same direction, rolled by every quarter of an hour immediatelyunderneath our windows, accompanied with loud shouts, cracking ofwhips, and jangling of bells.Between the quarters of the hours a gentleman and his wife enlightenedthe entire hotel with a domestic wrangle in one of the rooms in ourneighbourhood, and at 5 A.M. some person or persons overhead, probablyexperimentalising with a cold tub for the first time in their lives,apparently found it impossible to restrain themselves from giving ventto the natural exhilaration produced by the bath in what seemed, bythe trampling they made, to be an Indian war-dance. Added to this,there was a clock in our apartment which struck six when it should havestruck four, and eight when it should have struck six, thereby becominga source of much anxiety to the half-dormant mind, torturing it withvague speculations when it should have been at rest.The bedroom bell was ingenious enough, going off like an alarum when aknob of wood fixed in the wall was touched; and the invention would bestill more valuable if it would at the same time induce any servantsto answer it. As it was, the only chance, after prodding it for a goodquarter of an hour without any other result than a sore thumb and a

great deal of noise, was to seat oneself in an arm-chair before itwith the latest newspaper, or some interesting book, and, the elbowfirmly pressed against the knob, so to remain, if needs be, for thewhole afternoon until some one below was sick of the rattle, andcondescended to come and inquire the cause of the summons.A _table-d'hte_ breakfast in places like Bayonne is very trying toa delicate stomach, especially when an opposite lady is in the habitof wearing a false nose, and when the gentlemen wear diamond ringsand very dirty wristbands. Individuals of excited imaginations maypossibly regale themselves with _potage pat d'Italie_, but to mindsof ordinary level it appears but as some mystic and not very invitingfluid with things like boiled gentles in it. _Rognons sauts enchampagne_ is a dish also considered by the sanguine as something quiteunique, whereas a philosopher (at all events at so early a meal asbreakfast) is apt to connect that condiment in a general way with oldhats and hot water.FOOTNOTE:[1] What is more miserable than to see an old man just entering on thepractice of virtue?[Illustration: [++] Decorative Image][Illustration: [++] Decorative Image]

CHAPTER III.THE CITADEL.--BIARRITZ.--HOW THE VISITORS KILL TIME.--EN ROUTE FORSPAIN.--ST. JEAN DE LUZ.--HENDAYE.--THE BIDASSOA CROSSED.--WINTERIN SPAIN.--IRUN.--CUSTOM-HOUSE OFFICIALS.--ST. SEBASTIAN.--THEALAMEDA PROMENADE.--THE PLAIN OF VITTORIA.When after breakfast we looked out of our window, we perceived onthe opposite side of the way a grim old castle, with little gratedwindows sunk deep into its walls, like the eyes in a consumptiveface. And well, indeed, should that old building hide its eyes fromall creation, for did not its walls give shelter to the guilty triowho planned within them the devilish scheme of the massacre of St.Bartholomew,--the Duke of Alva, Catherine de' Medici, and her miserableoffspring, Charles IX.?A walk about Bayonne brings to notice of course a great amount offortification, especially the citadel of Vauban, where Marshal Soultand the Duke of Wellington fought very hard and sacrificed a greatnumber of the soldiers of their respective countries. Proceeding inanother direction outside the town, the tourist will come to a cemeterywhere lie forgotten, mouldering in the dust of a foreign land, theremains of the officers of the British guards who fell during thefruitless siege of Bayonne. Down in a dim dell, amongst old treeswhispering a requiem in the breeze of falling night, we stood overthose solitary graves, near which there was no sign of life, and wherethe brambles of the wilderness did their utmost to impede the tributaryfootsteps of the two English pilgrims to this forgotten shrine of their

brave countrymen, on which the last beams of sunset threw what seemedin imagination a bloody light.On a fine southern morning, we climbed on to the top of a crazydiligence, swinging in a very top-heavy and uncomfortable manner oversome very high wheels. The vehicle swayed to and fro in such a waythat the last carriage of an express train on the narrow gauge wouldappear immovable compared with it. The _banquette_, with its hood,in which we were travelling for pleasure, seemed quite overburdenedwith politeness, and bowed in the most humble manner to everybody andeverything it met. We were now on our way to Biarritz, a place wereached after an hour's drive in which there is nothing very remarkableto attract the traveller's attention.Biarritz is a town situated on the shores of the Bay of Biscay, andconsists chiefly of hotels and boarding-houses built on rocks. It ispeopled generally by emperors, waiters, hawkers of spurious Spanishgoods, and very idle ladies and gentlemen. Creatures like mermaids,with their extremities encased in mackintosh, are seen nearly all daylong sporting about in the waters which break upon the yellow sand, anddancing quadrilles in the sea with very odd-looking fish of the malegender, also swathed in curious garments, which cause them at a littledistance to resemble very badly rolled-up umbrellas, or an imperfectclass of sausages. Barring the bathing, the amusements of Biarritz,or Biarits, as some of the natives write it, are very dear and rathersilly. People revolve nightly on their own axes to the solemn strainsof a horn band in a large casino, with expressions of countenanceas serious and business-like as if they were undergoing a course ofrotatory exercise recommended by their medical advisers as a stimulantafter the chills of the bath; while the day is consumed, one hardlyknows how, except it be in flirting, aquatics, scandal, abuse of one'sneighbours, or in buying from gaudy coffee-coloured Spaniards trumperywhich, under no conceivable circumstances, could the most ingeniousmind ever turn to any account. There is certainly grand food for theeye whichever way it may turn, "whene'er we take our walks abroad," forthe long jagged line of the Spanish mountains is seen, now clear, dark,and sharp, now wild and storm-wrapped, rising loftily from the far bluemain; and there is always playing on one's cheek, or with the flowingtress of many a pretty damsel, the pure strengthening air of the Bay ofBiscay, sweeping with untainted breath from across the dark, wild wavesof the rolling Atlantic. From the summits of the various sea-worn rocksand pinnacles which jut out from the land may be seen beautiful viewsof the white amphitheatre of Biarritz, formed by clusters of villas,casinos, and bathing pavilions along the curving shore, or piled ongentle hills, rising one above the other in picturesque confusion, withtheir sunny walls shaded here and there by green shrubberies, or gaywith flaunting banners waving over shining terrace and grassy slope,the stately Villa Eugnie of the Empress commanding the whole. In frontthe restless waves are ever rolling in on the yellow sands, in theirceaseless chase from the Bay of Biscay, spread out so broad, blue, andbeautiful; while to the south the distant skies seem walled up by thatgrand dark chain of the Spanish mountains, towering through clouds andtempests in wild and lofty grandeur, or melting away on the far horizoninto the heat of the golden day and the spume of the tossing sea.The people at Biarritz seem to be in a chronic state of masquerade. Insome the disease takes a severe and malignant form, in others simplythat of a mild and harmless lunacy. Very fierce and dirty individualsprowl about the streets, in what is popularly supposed to be theSpanish costume, namely, shabby velveteen inexpressibles, jackets

covered with a perfect eruption of buttons and bobbins, and thecalves of their legs swathed in linen bandages, as if they were in ageneral state of poultice. These individuals have dreadful long Spanishknives to sell, knives which, when any Englishman is so infatuatedas to decline buying Birmingham cutlery at Biarritz, they grasp ina very portentous manner, opening and shutting them with an air ofdetermination which is most alarming to the weak and nervous."Who comes in foreign trasheryOf tinkling chain and spur,A walking haberdasheryOf feathers, lace, and fur?"Who indeed? the poet might well ask on the afternoon parade atBiarritz; and it is not at all certain that the people know themselves.There are gentlemen in short white jackets made of blanket,lemon-coloured tights, and Napoleon boots, or in knickerbockers andtop-boots, Scotch plaids, and very tall hats, with brims so narrow asto be rather problematical. The British traveller is, of course, to beseen there, as everywhere else, with a beard in that state which onedoes not know whether to attribute to neglect or intention.The ladies simply _dress at_ one another, and the extravagance of theircostumes can only be conceived by minds of the calibre of Gilray, orby such as can picture to themselves Paris fashion gone mad. We sawone lady in short skirts and Hessian boots, with little bells fortassels. The dress itself was so stiff with embroidery and needleworkthat it would have made a capital diving-bell; and the jacket was soprofusely embroidered with lace that it seemed made of solid gold.Nearly every lady finds it necessary, for some at present inscrutablereason,--which, however, like other mysteries will some day be madeknown,--to walk about with a slender white wand with a nail at the end.What are these sticks? Are they fetishes, or are they connected withany form of superstition. Why are they adorned with nails? And for whatreason are they carried like toothpicks between the finger and thumbof a tight kid-gloved hand? We should also like to ask why do youngEnglish ladies at foreign _tables d'hte_ always appear as if somebodywas perpetually on the point of whispering something improper to them?Their frightened air, indeed, as one out of common politeness preparesto address them with some commonplace remark, is so infectious that itis a wonder one does not fall plump into a perfect mire of mistakes and_gaucheries_, a miserable martyr to the cause of amiability.It certainly is a marvel how people manage to thrive on the fareprovided at these entertainments,--ghostly entertainments, we may callthem,--for there, as surely as the clock tolls forth the hour, appearsthe spectre "cock and salad," which, with the perversity of fate, everhaunts the path of the European tourist, to scare and depress hisappetite. The old philosopher, in observing" ,"[2]m s hav had sm hic vlai h a-ims mdcivilizai, ad aic laly Biaiz _abls d'h_; ima as a ally a bvl ca h c ld h d ih aimiy day a day h sam la l l -am a--_a l'a cha d_, i h b calld--aaly sid ih aall cadl iv i a lav ; h sam c i s a hids ld dy (sbi) hich h s as mad; h sam _da xa x ch x_, hich s d s maiic i hy, b h d cd

sad aliy csis maily _ch x_ ad h bs sm smallscims h ahd ib? Th h _ils d b _--ca hyb mad ld d-mas?--ha lab m s d b h cas ad h " slid lsh ml!"A hs asmic vls a s m a Elishaamilias, ih mamma ad da hs. Wh say Elish, d ma mdaly Elish, b dih ad a lly Biish--Biishi h dd l lhic, s id sl-cmlaccy ad als iiy v vybdy ad vyhi Biish--Biish i hamyd bvi sa mid hich disi ishs h ii scims h _ va ich_ sh m Albi. Th mamma ad da hs, ,a Biish a d, as hy si vld i a d ll amsh Claham iliy, sivi hi ms aa asy ad ac l"a mals ad i cmay." B i si hs la dabl dav s,i is a diic l i dcid hich is abl iss--halami s l dav i a ad di laly,hldi hi ivs ad s li s, ad a i-lass b ai ad h mb, ih h s h is schd hi lls si, di i h lil i ii aay i asciv; hsly a c scachi hmslvs ih a s,lai avy ih a i a h a l is idi him hs h x h a a l-bx, ad h hisyai a hay da h a m h i-basis. As h_j s mili _ l al ab , ha a ms _abls d'h_ sms i Uia ad mih m a ic bach s dy h RmLa .Bahi s d i h hl mi ad a, ad h mhdis i his is. W al d acss h sads m h bahicabis, a disac a h dd ad iy yads, bad, lism aci ia i a ilima. W a a i h hili lds a l am smbli a Kih Tmla's cla,ad a add i sa by m lld i il-clh. Wh hav aivd a h bi h sa, adas v i ih s a dh has lv ichs, ad a cmmdd by hm a lil a i h hll h had ad i ca lly h h had. This dal bi saly accmlishd, cmmc a li lil dac had-i-had ih h bahim i h sc h cd--i may b h hl -- hbach. A j mi a ims as hih as ssibl, i d avid vy av as i aachs, h bahi adas i ia Msi 's halh, ad h h cais himsl--_cmm s-il?_--ad ially hy lad s bac by h is is,ad h is hi s, acss h sady lai, sill i llvi h assmbld lac, h sy bxs cabis h ad aad, h ass i a vy dssd cdiih h h c a la cc s sldidly aid ladisad lm. I a i l c, has a ld lady may smilbladly a s as ass, as i ca la s sca mh ils hav c d. I ish i h hihs_md_, a slih ali-sic ca is csidd a la ads l accmaim h bah.Y ladis a cd cd sily i h a i h sam maby h m i macish, ad hs ccasis hy sm dis hmslvs i h ms lay l ma. Thy c s d lc his iy adi hmslvs ih h ms si lacs ms, ad l i hi ics, ss, ad sa has vyady s. Thy v hi hads, ad hi dsi

hi immdialy i vy h a, da h bld m hbai. W d, hv, bah i aiv syl, ad d i vy lasa al i h sa a h P i x, ad sim , a aay m bahs ad bahs, il c ld dis i h sa. W sam as h si cas hich m h ac h lil bay, h h b ya a s s s as a sa;ad m h bsm h d, hich clid, jyd hsldid aama h disa Pys hich aidd shad c d s. I is lasa sad ay h islad cs Biaiz ad ha h a avs bl dash amids h cavs hyhav h , s di li a ailly. I is am si, h is i a ciical md, m a y Bi ad h ah _abl d'h_, h lls y lil ic lis h cha his cl, bi valical, had ss amd Mah, Ma,L , ad Jh, ad h a ih as b, calld him "Th Acs hAsls." B h ms lasa hi all is id 's bac

d, a a sj days, his s id lil ,h h is s m ch ivliy ad, c i s as i may sm, lssd lss._Eh bi, s vici i_ ll sad Sai! W lcd sh ld aiv a B s a lv a ih. Hv (as a Saishailay accid is a a l aai), b la ha v. Thhls ld, d b, all b clsd, ad sh ld id slvs iah a aad sii. W ih sa dsad a d Saish, b h l a B s a m ch i h sam dicam, ashy hav a ais dialc hi . Ms h silv my h c y is bad, ad h s hls _das_ i Sai,a as _d as_ (h a h his bih ida as y id)is i Elad acisi a lil hamlss xi avlls,--i ac, _d_.W assd S. Ja d L z, a mbl-d ld h bds h sa, i hs cahdal h Gad Ma as maid MaiaThsa, da h Phili I. Sai, ad i h a d h si h s a h hay c l livd a ih s i ialbai d. Sm ay iss h m ai Baya, d hssls a siid bad asas c chad hi mis ihls, h ds hich hy had lashd hi l-bladd ivs.Sm id i his ac h ii h bay. Th is ihabidby hal-ishs, a sldis, ad sm cids.Wh aivd, h l s a h sai sill ali vh c accid hich had ll ih s all h calc lais haNal III. has mad as his dyasy. Th sa is ally vy h a h ac h lil hab ; ad h ccasi i si, as h Emss as ladi i a small ba m h sam,h ba as s cls lad. Th Emss ad Pic bh s c

, h sh i as m ch as as csis ih a m h l a, "Sav my s!" h h, "Sav my mh!" This as as ish ld b. E i ad h hi h imial h savd, b h il as dd.W shly achd Hday, h las Fch , ad h Bidassa,hich h divids h c is, as cssd. Th a sml samy lads visibl a l a b h sa ad h bidv h iv, ad b amhibi s ca s ld, ldimai, v hm. I 1813, h D Wlli, hv,s add his amy ad h h hm; hby s ccdi i bhasishi Mashal S l ad ai his sii.

W x aivd a I , h is Saish , i a sm slad ai, ad i a h ica id. I ac, i had aid, ad bla s ad small ams, alms icssaly h las daysa Bay ad Biaiz, ad h ah s h h s h ah. Pl sm isc abl as Sai hi. Thy had s ly b mai i h mild ad v clima T ay; i h saml a m av dih as s sd b ial, h Fas ad cmm ss dd saais ximalisi ih misabl bdis h Saishi! T i amids h dams, ah s ( dam is a mildxssi idd), h vil ids ad h shllss lais hh Sai ld, acy, b s ici sd a Lalad ia cs mi. Wha c i ld d c a dlica Elishmal, ca am dcid a hiy. W d b, hv, ha Svill, alcia, Gaada, v Bacla, ihhi s y sis ad av abl sii, may b m av abl h ivalid, ad ml h icy is i hy ca ach him;h h, alas! h s dah ill si d is vicims vd am ad adia sis. T , i sms a ims as i dah mihb chd ih a may ms, ad b s add d haal bl; b ha ma a mms l i a day ld? Oha val is ah ya amids a sa bls--a ca ilsad cas? Whh li b a dam s bliss, i m sshly d. I h m, hy sh ld ca l i? I hla, i is li h jy s li-h h b ly,--'is a s s, h h ha has ba isl . Thbl shi ls s mm, v as bd v hm, ad, ih,ad di; ad h m sic a ma's his ais aay v as i isd. All ha is mal, all ha is lvly, m s ass aay idass, ad h bjcs ds acis m s disaa ih shii sads Tim!A I h _ad as_, h a all m sachis ad imic, as sd b vy xaci, ad is ad l css axi s as 's maa x a l mbd, ad mmad, ad ma ldby h is lm h sm hi ha smi ad aialic a a dliss ha claliss. S, ai advaa his advic, immdialy aival calld a ady-madad vaca smil, ad ass md s ch a ai chalac, ha h_ad as_ m s hav h h s idly adlss sal y. O sha-yd lil icial, hv, idsadi h ay sa ma c ld avl ab E ih a ashiaaa s, sizd dily id's idia- bb bah iha lil l ciy. This cvi aicl, as all ,is l d d h ds; ad h lil ma cs ly cam h ccl si ha h l d divisis m s csi sm id ial machi, vidd ih a cai mb bals, hxlsi hich ld bl h Q Sai ad h Miisy;ad ha , c s, a c l dai vl iiss. I asih sm diic ly ha s ccdd i cvici h imaicial ha h as i , ad h alld cd.Th ai sill dscdd i caaacs, h id bl ih saidvilc, ad vyhi ld dam, diy, ad d ll, as c md h ailay caia. H ashly id a sc Saish i h clss ma h is his h"Wdcc" is s ddly sh d i a laai, viz., sh i hys, ii i h ai, ad si Pvidc.

"_N s cambia cchs B s?_" asd ."N, s," asd h ad.W said all h dsi cvsai ih ha ciay, as vai, a, ad iabl, i is said, "S aba hsbac, ad h ill id "--a lma s allymid i li sciy. B a, ma i a ld l, h ish ai Fch Ialia, v addssss a s asc, v ma li isic xims had-li m. I is b sil a idivid al ih a mildad ah a s c ac h s i si. W avididivid als imsi sc, ad s h mbl lil m hsli i cs, ad, i ssibl, l dlica csi i.A i y ma i scacls, isac, h is i M halh, ad h has a bx by his sid lablld, "_Fail--H il di d m _," is a d s bjc; i ac, ay h is bl b asishd a ayhi.As ci d j y i Sai, h l s s h Pyss daly v h sa, ad avd aay i ly d lais valad m ai, ih hi sls hi s mmis clhd i ds, dd h ad h ih y Siss-li cas,hil h h h dii sc d a say s bam ccasially dis ay, ad v ad a ll i a lash ly aha h ldis h a mal ds.A lh a hih ciadl ad sm -csd hills cam ivi, li d a cl si s ld h ss,ishm's h s ad vssls, h mass ad sails mcha ca,hil hiashd Bas cas s i all dicis i m hic lia, ad aai vy bih ad cla. This asSa Sbasia. H h h sad Madid s bahii h s mm sas, h h shs h lil bay a d ia c cam s, avilis, ad bahi-machis.Th Alamda mad is cdd as ih h dds li ai Bas cs ms. Th b ll-i ad h ha a alsav i ss h ihabias ad visis.Th ai am ba y m ih ams h mals his ismi-baba s Clic ac ccasially ms h assi avll mai a day i his c i s ad lasa ld .All sms s ac l i ad a d Sa Sbasia, h sly i hich is b ly by h a disa avs, ha i isdiic l cj h scs caa hich, a h da h Fch ais by h Elish, lac h--h sh hissi sh, h cash alli h ss, ad h shis m adchild dyi mids lams ad sm! Wh ca imai h cdii a iv d sldis, maddd ih l s, s ccss, adi? Elad has li s aals i h hisy, ad ll may h ssjic i hi Elish bih; b h hav b ims h dvilsmih hav jicd ad als a h dds d by Elishm,ad h day h sac Sa Sbasia as hm.A a sh sa cdd ads aai h h smbs, cy dils, ad vda vallys. W s acss dy adaid lais, ih h l li h ii Pys b di hihiz, ad as d l ld villas, msly i is, b il i h

chis ad cais cy m ais, ad ihabid by ild-lim ad m. Th lashi ai dscdd ad h id hisld as dashd h h h s m ad mis, ih a cs, ld casls, admajsic s lmi i h mids h li c h hss. Th-"O l las al h d,Th cl ds a clad aay;Ad h li s s c m ls dU h dazzli day."Wh lih c m sh ah, ld ad bhld hihvhad bli cas ad dachd b lds c, s sddaaly s isc ly ha a bah mih disld hm m hily shlvs, ad dash hm d i i h assi imisbah. O ha sii iacl sis a m ldi casl, hRdic, las h Ghs, asd h lvly La Cava, h cshim his sc ad his li.Th lais iia a las aad sad b s, idisiclys i h dai ilih, ih a l a aib hai v hm.Oh! h ssiv ha Sai! Oh! h s cai ad s ly ai!B h Saish clima is s bjc a chas, ad caly say ih lad ha a l's c sl, viz., , ad had b h d as. Li Jb, had cms, ad aly had caid ih s a s a-ca his bili lad!FOOTNOTE:[2] Ma is a ally a bvl ca .--ANTONIN.[Ill sai: [++] Dcaiv Ima][Ill sai: [++] Dcaiv Ima]

CHAPTER I.BURGOS.--THE FONDA DEL NORTE.--THE ODOUR OF SANCTITY.--SPANISHCHARACTERISTICS.--SCENES IN THE STREETS.--THE CONENT OF LACARTUJA.--TOMB OF JUAN AND ISABELLA.--THE CASTLE.--THE CID.--THECATHEDRAL.--HOW PRIESTS MAKE MONEY.W aivd a B s i h mids a h ica ici id--idha as m asily l by s ha i ill b dsd by ids i Elad, h cli h bsia i h icssaha Sai. Th cld ha Ocb ih, a m is ha adiay mid-i ih i Elad, as mad m sv by h absc all cms, ad by h i s aaac h aivsh shiv ad sha all v h c y, lld i iaicb dls day, li dizs z is. Th a lh lav is ad lal aiscas i Elad bca s i ish is Ail, alh h, s may b h d; ad hav d b ha sval ids ld hav had s aay slvsi hi ja aals ad li jacs bca s i Sai.

N, h is as ha, bca s a ma is clv ad _a ai_a all ha ccs ha sa li hich Gd has calld himi h Biish mlis, his mlical ad hmal assissci h c is a b blivd i svdly by hisids.Mahil, "B s!" as s ddly sh d by h ad h ai,ad li , d had aivd a ha sai. Ab a mil as h a cahdal, s ll ayd by DavidRbs, lmi b s hsly i h dim lih h aym. W dscdd h lam hal asl, ad axi s ab h maa x, hil h ai hisd , lavi s al, lisadd mais a sh. W ld ab s, ad sac h i s lidi ab h ad h ih las lami ih dass, shalss ms ad h ys i diy cl dblas--hi hads xi ishd ih sl has ad hmaic ad c i s a.A small cd ad ally ahd a d s as sa ics baa, li Mai s am h is Caha, ad h vybdyba al a c ih h ms ih l vlciy ad alamis s. Th ch s, vy li ha vil dms i sm ida, ci d sval mi s, ai ih a vi ads ch aidiy ha c ld ma v h ilds ss a himai, bca s, amids h babl ds hi ais c ld bdisicly sild . Hv, dicd s s by h scialvidc hich sids v Biish iss, v ally mada dsa sl i ll l a ad cli i hlas. Flli hs acics, d slvs i a sh imsad i a lad vhicl, ic all sis, hich had smsmblac a schlm hls, ih all h cadls .I his cvyac had h h advaa h i dsciy a mish lma ih sadals, cl, , ad hasmd b a l haiy dssi-. N, hav had h d saciy, b i h d by hich his hly s asaccmaid as h aicl i si, m s say did' hi

m ch i.Th vhicl i hich sad sad ih a sh , a cac,ad a j, vy s ddly, ad, ay a lil abs, ih s ici ai. A ali v h ms a l avm,as y, a b ildis, ad h h da, a, shady ss,ill miad a l ivals by a misy lam s acss m h s h s, ladd a h d h Fda dl N.A his j c , h ac ha i his li cidc i hisas hy sh ld b, isad s sici his as hy a, is amisa, as cd s vy dcisivly; had , dscdim h mib s, csidd i a al ha h sh ld b a s hich lac h , isad adi i as ssibl hah mih b ,--scially i i as a all id,--sh ld hav all havily i h ad, ad b smad allv ih di ad mi.A hldi a had l small cis, h s simliyi masby li h mib s-div hl himsl, scd i slcssi,--h l a i is,--by a ai damsls,ad a vy b ld ma, bai cadls, h h idi assasall hiashd, cld s lihs sais, h alls hichsmd b cvd ih ay am blac-bls, il

shd i a small d bl-bddd m, als hiashd, adadd ih villy cl d is sais ad mays, ihha aad b is izzi ad xldi h bacs hi hads. W h sd ih a c sm daly dad ah m ddy-li l id calld chcla, hihly lav dih ha s is h ms a s s hi i h ld,--ciam.A ic blac bad, ad a a smhi hich mih c havb b , b smbld ailay hl-as, chs, ash iv s. Hal a cld bid, a scis, sh ld imai,aly xic, smd as lil calc lad las h aias h bad, b , ad chcla. Ths l x is lacd a chs das, h bi abl; ad as chai c ld b d s ici ali d ais s a lvl ih hsdlicacis, csaid sad a as.Th cssi c i s lls had hald, ad dlydi a smicicl a d s, d blss ach h cs hisasishi ba a mids ad my smachs. T as h hal-bid as a c cm h ccl si ha h lyi Sai is d chily avl. Th blac-yd y ladis hlid d s dily hil ali slvs, as i scims sm maabl ac m, ihabias h la J i dd i hi hl, a lh s ii by h b ld mal, ad l al ihh ychical sais, h hiashd alls, a c l ibdsads, chais, ad h chs das, hich sill adbah h ih h mais h viads ha had md iiiay ba i h lad Sai. Th ild cy h achmamai h h h a, sil ss, h disa cla h a cahdal bll s di h h , ad h misy mlihsami h h h casm, av a c lia iish vlxics m ad his; ad s bd-- a sl c sd ihall ss imssis, bl d ad i i ach h hal h mid.H i Sai; Sai, h lad hisical mmis--Ibia,Clic, Phicia, G, Cahaiia, ad Rma. Fm h Phiciassa Cadiz, Svill, Malaa, ad Cdva. Fm h Gs, Rhdias,ad Zaas, as Rsas i Caal a, h lais h BalaicIsls, ad h immal Sa m (M vid), hich hically sisdHaibal, ad ca sd h scd P ic a. Fm h Cahaiias,h c d S h Sai (B.C. 237), sa Cahaa, ad alsBacla. All Sai ll bah h Rma y, ad ci d di a id c is.Sai, h lad hisic mmis, Ghic, Mish, Fch, Biish;h lad h Cid ad chivaly; h lad h I isii ad biy, h lii s ms, T mada,[3] ad h aad c l D Alva; h lad h c s Mxic adP , Cvas, L d a, ad Cald; h lad las z,M ill, ad h Idal, sa xia hl-s ha m ch aachd h Ral;[4] h lad imc isiy, biy,ilac, ad las; h lad lv ad v, maillas adsils; h lad ly ad h, azll-yd m, ad hbl chla; h lad b ll-ihs, cias, bl bld, bas,ms, ad dis cd i il; h lad h d s achic h smb Gh ad ss s M; h lad a c d advici s c -- l i, ii , casiai, ad id;h lad sa ch, chalss, ad bl chaacs, ad ad chival s has; h lad h vi, a, ad cyss--

l m ais ad dami sa; h lad lih ad shad, lv ad had, ly ad lm;--i i, h lad a ssiiv, s, am-had, ad ac l l, b h s vmi Chisdm.W a i Sai, caily; b h cld ad s lchal a ciy B sis! I is chill ad dam, ad s bjc vil aacs id, bisi ad a lvad, xsd, ad lss lai, 3075 abvh lvl h sa, ad s dd by a id Aabia-li yllds, hich, hv, avs vas sa c i s mm, i ish aay Sai. I is s lchal bca s, all h ss a advacd ad lihd a, i is a b id ciy; ad h ishi a B ls has s m ch as imvm. W a may h ddmils s h Elad; b h m ch m bla ad ihsiabl ish clima ha ha ma Nh isl; ad ca lldsad h vb lai h ah i his lac, "_Dizmss d ivi y ds d ii_."B s is, as hav said, m ch bhid is im. Th is aic la ad, xci i h siml aicls csidd cssay h lai. Th hls a b scd-a, ad a sdchily as ai-h ss h hih class adsl. Fis s hi shl.As h mi b av d ih a lims h s ,hich chd s ih is viviyi bams ab h , ad hh d ll lad cl ds c m assd v h ac day, hilh cld ids s d m h ba ad d sy hills vlih . Hv, as ads h h h i ld ss, xics a li idlc hich is shi a h b sya h ciis. Th vai s cl i h ai Saishss, ih h ic s i laiy h h ss, as ld ai sciv, is lih ad livly. Th aaac h balcis,cl d mai, ad aid sh s ad blids, is lasi h y h sa m is vly. Th a v mayasss ma h s h sc; ad s ch as lid ilyas s l ih small d c isiy. H isi iis s h d is ih h shvl ha, l blac sis, adsmach-b cl "Il Babi," lily sal i h liv-cl dy lady ih h ac l mailla as sh ss al ih a alad -li diiy!Hv siv may b sm h sihs s i his c y,hv l ca may b may is ai dizs a ihhi bihih di, h is ac vyh--ac ic h slihs am a c, h smalls aaac acai; a al idi s ac, by all, ih i ma,dss, bai, m h hihs h ls i h lad. Evh vmi-h i ba, s i his idl sl bah h cavdch ch d, ca b ac l i his as; ad a ld l lslya d his m, ih h lds ca h h ad h, ad allii a asy ad bcmi ma m his sh ld his , ivs his i , as h acs calmly by, a ai diiy aly b mih lsh; hil h bad-bimmd vlv smb, ja ilyisd h cl d ai hich is b d d h had ad allsi a h a h c, cmls h ll- ic h d b baly D, ad lacs him _i i s_ b ys.A vy h y may all

ba i l ld ms Ghic

achic , ai ad slm ld h ss, cavd ih haldicblazy, ih sa s ill si s ais dad as a s ihi alls. Cl m, illa, ad ach a s iid ad isd iall dicis, ha h b ildis l as i hy had b s ddlyaalysd hils ihi all v i a i ay. O may assd sm ba i lly d ach, ad id sl ihi a idc h ms ac l Saacic dvic. N s bas h slysilc is lih acads; sm as ly a ily ci ha ass ams h b avms is a s a; ad hcl ds a assi sly abv.I h sis h bsvd sm massiv yll alls,ih bl Ghic achs ad ids, d ad bad, sadi allal amids h d s his aid clima, ad li h bahills i h disac; b h as livi s l as hhhy cv is. H ad h, , sm ich lics aci sc l s b il amids h bics a ba sh s--h i Pas sd i h ams h sPs! I ad a d h ciy, dal s, ad ld aays, adh alacs aci bls, h ld csabls Casil, ihhi _aads_ amd ih d l dvics, amial bais,ad haldic mss, a bjcs is him h caad a c y's hisy i is ai aia mais. Fm h mic hich is b il h cv La Ca ja, si ad ab milsm h ciy, a al vi B s is baid, ih h lac-liiacls h Cahdal sii h sis, s dd allsids by h dsla hills ad a-schi Sahaa-li lais,ih scac a ach vd h achi y s i aydici. W, i a a mm, hid a _calch_ cvy s hcv; b as h ad hih as v h ms haassi d, lli h ac a a-c s s ih a ss,h acss lvl d i hich sa h axls i hid s, cam h ccl si ha, li h ma i h sda-chaih h bm cam , i i h h h hi, mih j s as ll al. Idd, mih as ll hav d ali a c,--ali ssibly, h h h caia h as by sid, ally had al hal h ay.U aivi a h lmy al h cv, ih is yllalls, ad ids, ad s b sss, hich h l ds avi i h blas li h ild sas i h had smmlachly maiac, lid a havy c, ad ih i d cdsm bls hich s dd dismally ad a ally l d amids hsilc ihi. I as s mms, a cav s, la, al acaad a scd s a a ai isc h i ds,ad xi bably asi h ac ha da as b ahdd m s, h havy d as s by a dilaidad s lii, i a l s ad sadals, hld s dssd ad shy ih li-l d lss ad s sii,ha i as d h c ld li his ys hih ha h s his visis. W h d a la lil ch ch ih idachs, h lid Ghic syl, bah a _aad_ mblazd ihh ams Casil ad L. I h mids h s bd d lih hhly lac, h s ddly b s h maiic mb J aII. ad Q Isablla P al, md hi mabl. I is lyd l ha i h csss hs lly ad dcayi alls,i his l s ah, ihabid ly by iv chd advy-sic ms, a s bjcs is hich, i himavll s ba y, a alld, has, i h ld. Exc d i Caaa mabl, caal i sha, ad aisd ab six

m h avm, ih a cic mc aly hiy-six , hmb J a ad Isablla cly s h y by h amaziiicacy is dail. Six lis, bai h yal sc chs,sad i ais a ach al; s i mabl sa s, achidivid al a masic isl, aa si d ilicais, ad ihi a c mabl lac iiidlicacy; hil ss ad bs ahy lia, is adls, s bids ad iscs adi i hi mabl imayih h siy ch li. Th sa s h yal ai li sidby sid, bd i day hich mih b h is dl i s.I a css i h all a by is ah d l mb h sam s am ad dlica iish, ha D Alz, s habv. Ov h hih ala is a _abl_, a mass s ild si als sii vy slid cl ds, hil hlcvys lil id ch bim, ih vy d chs, hv d ha cal i Chis hai h css, ad s m dby a lica ai h bas d h y . Th i hih h _abl_, m h li i s h i ad bl h s mmi h ms cl ds amids hich h Ass mi h ii is sd, m s b aly y . Th ildiih hich his maiic is sly add, is said ba h ld b h by Cl mb s m Amica. Th ily-cavdal -d salls h chi a scims h d l id syad x isi as ld ims, ad a chaacisic all Saishch chs.I h cal d h sil cv cliss h a dsav v sm h dd avs Cah sia ms. As im lls hds is hih ad al hic, b h slss m d ad allysis d h al lvl h ah. Hv hy hacis a h dds h , hi avs a v sil,hi ams a b i i a, ad h vy ass abv hmihs s s as hi mmy.A havi s vyhi ha aacd c isiy, dh h h d hi d s, ad v h sy acs, ih vy s l vhicl jli bhid s, h cachma ai mclsly d him his aml am,--a am ih csidably msi hai ha sha, bi cmsd h sis mayas. I s s h aly, i v, i , ih day; ad iis babl, i h v v d diss ih a vsm hich hadbcm alms a a himsl, h mih hav l h cs cs his ashss.W a i is ai l d y mid h ad ha B s adh D Wlli c assciad h. Gly is a ihi, b i is a a a im bcm a _b i_ mayxcll ads; hv, ha is hi l- . I Nvmb, 1808,B s bcam h had- as Nal. Wlli, sh m hisvicy Salamaca, ivsd h ; b , i cs c his ici s h Saish al, as cmlld aish si i d sca bi ca d by Mashal S l, has aachi ih a m s c. T ji Hill as h D 'scssay bjc, as his s i mb, badly visid,ad by a ci d s l aais a dds ad maydisadvaas, h lil bad havi ih hm cay h sib h ild-ics ad iv hizs, aais y-six hFch. A a lss h sad m, h a h Elish

as caid ih m ch hazad; b i J , 1813, h a as chad, ad Ki Jsh, h aach h D Wlli, vac ad h ciadl, a bli h iicais,ad ih hm sval h dd Fchm.I h Casl a B s, c a s m s alac as ll as a ciadl,h maia h Cid lac; als ha Edad h Fis Elad ad Ela Casil. B s is ill si s am ciis, ashavi iv bih h Cid, h i 1040, is sa h lih i ah s hich sd h s h sads a blis, i h CallAla, cd by Chals III. i 1784. Th a, c s, a la mb l h all ab h _Cid_, ad h divai h d. B as a ally cai h a a ai am h d, may as ll mi h lli aic las i cciih ha smi-mysi s sa, hm all sis aavidabl i a b ab Sai.D Rdi Diaz d Biva, his h Cid, as a lma vyali dcis, ad s ms his im i ivi v hmaial ad ihi him. H has cs ly b add by hisc ym all ims as hi aial h, ad ad i a bihhaz ab l s ly ad am. H, hv, accmlishd a d dal h aib d him, ad chasd, haassd, c d, adimisd h Ms h h Sai a ms saisacy x.His lv h ba i l ad hic Xima xmliis h adaha b h bav dsv h ai, ad shs his ss i hbs s as ll as i h ild Mas. Shly a hisdah a ad ical liicai his xlis as d hismas i h "Chicl h Cid;" ad ah, a vy l ima, by h immal Cill i his masic "L Cid." Uh ccasi a a vicy, sm Mish abls cam h had sad hmslvs a his , sal i him ih h il _Sid Camad_, Chami Pic--hc h allai _Cid_.

alcia as h las Mish shld hich ll his ams; adh, a hai his s s ad hs-bi h Cahdalall, h hy mai his day, h did i h ya 1099. Ayi ii avll may saisy h cmbid b a hisicalad aamical mid by isci ihi a d i h T Hall B s, h bs h immal D Rdi ad his lvly Xima.Oly s h Cahdal B s ld amly sv as a a ld a ilima m h ms as h ah. Cmis ddly m d h al sm a s, h b ss h y ha li s Ghic il, ih all is aiy iacls. I hii h ich is his majsic ml ih ha alld m ssiiica h Rma Cahlic aih, hil h slm alls ad ih chas ams h as ba y, ad ih s sld, ac l illas hich is a-li h ly .Wh vis i, as Sc cmmds s vi Mls, i h almlih, h d is h imssi d cd by h id-liaaac h imms b ildi, h dsi hich is s bl, sc! Th ad ilim m h lads, h his ys is s his alld shi, sads chad, as i d h s,his s l lai ihi him, asd ih h ba y s a ascacl.As h a cavd d sis bac bhid s, ad sh s mh sss h la h Saish day, h had is isicivlybd, ad h bds i shi; vyhi i his

cscad ml h Diviiy is calc lad xci h sii adai, ad ais aih havad. Wh sad sil h hshld ha hly lac, bah h ly achs hva ld , s d by s clssal cl ms mli aayi h disac; h slly ac h l aisls, ih hmbs h mihy dad ach sid; h l ih hdv shis b h alas i h vai s chals, mmdby h dds sa-li lams, h s l ls h aliy hiss; hil ih h d diaas h a, bldd ih hhly s bads chiss, is asiais m li cl ds ics hav. Nv shall I h d imssi hich Ixicd h, i ha bl a, I l ha lii s aih asa c h ads ad h ms i h h h ma s l.Th saicas, hich dscds i ac l c vis m h ala h mabl l bah, ih a ii hads miai hbal sads, is vy ba i l, ad as m ch admid by DavidRbs. H maiic, , is h chi, ih is h ddsalls, add ih sis, hich a amd ih h ichs adms mi cavi! Th da al -d is all chasd, chislld, adacd m iacl l ih mass amazi amai,amids h iicacis hich h sih lss isl, ad bcmsdim. Th chi is ily s dd by all bass ailis x isi mashi; ad i h i chals, ach clsibjcs mavll s is ba y, h alas a s d byjas illas ad cl ms as mabls, hil h _abl_ iss h --a c labyih il d-cavi, cdd ihs bjcs d s dvic. O a shl i a sacisy is m ldiaay i chis a a d chs hich bld h Cid, h id lc li a hich vy maabl aicl hish's i a is did cha s m ha a shilli a had.FOOTNOTES:[3] I h c s six yas, T mada, isI isi-Gal Sai, cmmid h lams ih h sadih h dd vicims.[4] Ab c haly. Th al is h basis h hlmay sysm Sai.[Ill sai: [++] Dcaiv Ima][Ill sai: [++] Dcaiv Ima]

CHAPTER .AGAIN ON THE RAIL.--ALLADOLID.--THE FONDA DEL SIGLO DE ORO.--THECOLEGIO MAYOR DE SANTA CRUZ.--CONENT INTERIOR.--CHAMBER OFHORRORS.--COLEGIO DE SAN GREGORIO.--THE CATHEDRAL.--SPANISHCHARACTERISTICS.--THE THEATRE.--USE OF TOBACCO.As h ai mvd aay m B s, h ciy ad h a cahdalmld aay m sih, ad lidd v h id Aica-lilais ad did- ac ss, as h sy hills hich, xdi

h a hiz, lcd h dazzli ays h s . N a blad ass si as h sh h y ma, cal mia . N d h b h c y is mad lad, h mil di a m h ma!A a lil sai h h ai sd, a ld lady, clslyhdd i blac s, ad li li h la sai Old By, d caia, h ih a m. Wh hy camm i as imssibl cjc , as h as si villa habiai ihi sih his vy slss sai i hds. Thy add, hv, by h s al sc i v ihis c y, a i hich immdialy la s ad bi s.Th iscs had mad b a scay mal hi i ii s m,ad cam s hi _chass ca_, ah _chass mi_.W aivd i h vi a alladlid, c h caial Sai. Idd, i si is sii i h c a id,id-s, sady lai, hich ca ss h ciy b h s a chic simm, i sms b a caial sill. F adad aic l h si ai aas cvi, , d l say, hy hav sm a amids h _ias d cams_,hich cs ly yild ab da d c; addd hich, h ivD ccs h ciy ih h Alaic--i a ah diic l adsasmdic ma, hv--ad h ailad maiais is cmmciallais ih h s h ad h. Th am alladlid is s sd b divd m h Mish Blad Walid, lad h Walid. Thismay b, hv, as " b" said a h _abl d'h_, "ialid,"ad b lid .I h Plaza May his ciy, h a Alvaz d L a, "Sai'sha hy csabl," as bhadd. "Uasy lis h had ha asa c," ad h asy m s si h had ha ss i ics,scially ld ics h may y s, all ss h ,j sic, ad ai d sms al h d h xi ssscms i a h id.H, i 1506, Cl mb s dad his li, ad Phili II., h a ssss s , May Elad, cam i i May 21s, 1527. H, i h sixh c y, _a -da-s_ adidical bis hics ih a sii,--bi d h scial aa h abv-mid blssdmach, a scal cdd maiicc. H, Cvaslivd ad , ad h, b blid add, h D Wlli mad his blic y, ad his sidc i hbish's alac.Th _Fda dl Sil d O_, alh h ah ambii s i is chic a am, is a labl h s h, ad h visi hcssais li is i s imiiv h as a B s. Asads ha ssial lm civilisai, h bah, h Saiadsms sill dly ad i imval dass. O h mi a aival a h Hl h Gld A,--h ld hi

all ld b s dd by dlihs,--h i s dsi a bah ssssi s as s al; b , as i h lacs, had sm diic ly i baii ha shi aicl. W ll hbll, h ai aas; h d "bas," i a l adah h mbl , as i i i as vai xc a av ablly. Th ai i is, "Cali?" W as, "N, i." "Fi!"scams h ai, ih blachd visa, ad isaly disaasli a hal i h h a a. Psly, hv, h aas ih

ah ai, bh li as scad ad cmabl as i hyxcd b css-xamid a a c's i s as s sici sisss ccd ih dcas. Aai v as imidly "bas." Bh ais xclaim, i a hllss amazm,"Fi?" hich y ly i h aimaiv by a d, ad hyihda, m i ad sic lai all d h sais. Th Saishahlis bsvs ha h i hydmaia ally aacs hElishma b h h s ih ad .I a mi s, a a dal sc li sid h d, h ais aad aai, lld by h ladld, his i, ada sa lma, cayi b hm a bjc hich had smsmblac h sa-chai S. P i h basilica haam a Rm. Wh his d s ic i as sld i hmiddl m, discvd ha h sa had b mvd, ada s a i a ixd bah, caii ab is ba. I his madly l d, ad alh h cly sb a him, imaid jyi a shi s bah. Hv, hiss hi is h _csas d Esaa_, s s s i as allih._ s_ h al d xssd a ay ishi clda ash i, h sms i Sai b a al shai. U ccasi had b i bd b a sh im h aai d h m i i i S had all h id. Hisys had s sd h id, hich admid hcla ih ai, ha his hl c ac bcam lcd ad iid,as i sm dad l sa--h avlli h Khassa, imih b--had s ddly sd himsl a h id. Th ciayi si, hv, s cvd his sc mid, ad havicas axi s lac a bd, saisy himsl ha all asih ih s, h l acss h m ih a b d ad a ah,slammd h casms h, ad h sh s a hm, liih css ba i is sc ih s ch c as sh ha hidd i mai h.Th hls i Sai, i h la s, a ally cla ad ll

; h h sm ss, has, mih b abl diss ih alil ha ivsal d is ad ammia hich csalyvails h h h h s; ad h ds ad chals avllsi h vai s ms ld b absl ly dad i cmmbas m h ss vaild sd i sm ch hi im h sais b h bd-chambs ad h d-l.

alladlid bi a csidabl imac i h hisy Sai, a s i, ad s hadi ayh h h s y ss, dah h bad bad bl vhad,il d slvs ac ac ih h Cli May d SaaC z, a ad ld alac dd by Cadial Mdza i 1479, ad sadi ih all is ba i l cld ih ild ds, adis lih acads, Saacic cl ms, ad Ghic chs m ldiaay i s ad silc. O add, h h h l allis,ill achd h libay, aaly s calld acc hal absc bs, b hich is illd ih a mi alh ih sha a si scims h ms x isi cavisi al d ad da a. Th a _salas_ a _salas_ illdih ld m sy ic s, cavis, ad d sc l s, cllcdm h vai s cvs a h id hi s ssi. Thic s a msly bad, h h may hm a c i s. O c s

h a mbs hay ld sais i as, ih ld is ixd h bacs hi hads, liyi i h lyi labl lacdbah hm. A l m is illd ih a l aid i scavd i d, si s iaic ias i h ac sc i Chis, m s ly hid s ha ayhi c ld imai i s dams. Is i i d isi a d vc ad aci O Savi ha h i h Rdmis sd i hs d cis as a ma, a, ad maciadsl a ma, cvd all v ih bld, di, h mas sis, ad ald masss al d hai? is i dm is h disli ih hich ad his sc s? Thsidivid als a sd blab i hi a vicim ihc dls csidably la ha hi bdis, hich hav h msvli aaac m dmiy ad disas, m s m s bially add hi has.I h mids hs dlcabl hs, ad lacd a lala, is a aid d-cavi h dcaiad had S. Pa l,ih hich ay ama xc i may al himsl his ha'sc. S aih lly dd is h las l h i hhal-clsd lass ys, ha ca hl d bi, h h islacs a i, hh i is ly a mdl. W lad sca mhis lii s Madam T ssa d's i h bih s ad ai, h c ld dismiss h acis isid by s ch hibl sihs.W l i livd h d slvs aai i h as a, aliv ih da-sid m ad m, ih hi ay dsssad s s vics. Th jili m ls v a lasa sih s, ad azd ih dlih h hi alls, lci ihs ch dazzli billiac h ays h s , ad h ivsald s, hich alms hal chd s, sa h bl sy adh acacia s. I ac, h vy d alic as sdsabl s as i sd b. Caily hs vas, is-licvs sadi h sis h , a ms iilacs i hich imm li y m ad m--ii hi s, ha is, iasm ch as h is h b s mh ad ids m hm bac h ld hy hav l.Thy may sai hi dimmi ys as m ch as hy las h h hbas, hy ill s sii cds i s i b siss las , hay ais, maly m s ac, ma hsill am ha hill ih jy l mmis; hy ill s h b ild acs ds, ad yll lais adi i h h hiz,ad sadi aay li a b i ca. W hav by chac accasis ca h sih acs a cv ais, ad hi lacll li a icicl h ha--acs hich, h h y i yas, ad i sadss, ad chac ih h ms--ms bablyih h --ha cms la. I sa, ccasi, y ils, al m cim ihi h yll alls a lii sis a alladlid, ad h bldlss ch dd h da blaz h azll-li ys alms a ally bih ih a alsl s, h l s ca h m h s l lsd by h aial dcay is is-h s, ad s li b . H sa ha sm ch y , ad li, s m ch ba y, s may lvi has, ads m ch s y sh ld chs slssly aay i s chis-h ss, li al ad lly lams lici i a mb! Saha hi missi as d m, h mih hav shd h isad md h hadss may a hs ma, h i mihhav lvd hm as his li, his id, his all, sh ld b--as ciizs h ld--id a dsiy s a lly aimlss, hlss, adlvlss: s dad i hi li, ad i ly may cass s ly

ha-ay ad l!Wll, cd ih sll h h h ic s ld Saishss. W say Saish,-- i is vy v i Sai hais Saish i h chaac is achic . Madid, isac,ih h xci a h ld as, has hi aiallychaacisic ab i. Th s as bii ma isl lih m ha s al vi ; b ha as b xcd h, iis h _csas d Esaa_. Fm h yll alls ch chsad alacs, is ays lcd, hil vhad h h slss la bl . D a mlachly sil s, h lads alli al, ad ic-yd, ad l ci savaly ams h d s, as a lai s a h s, ih a small ids clsd by sh s. I his h s Cl mb s did, as hsa is imd by h lli iscii v h d: "Ac im i Cl."A lil h cam a av dy las, bdi asmall sl ish sam, h h hich as s a lscic vi h,yll hills byd, dd h ad h ih a achs ,as i h i s c diy, i lyi v hm, had by accidccasially dd m his c cia a h b ch css. By hsid a dich, bsvd h dds ashm hi s,ashi shis i m d, ih a la s. Th chai hy madid cd " b," hm s ddly m h bid, bsvha "h smd b a a dal m ali ab hiad ah ha ab ayhi ls." Wha h ma, dss s!A lil byd, as a by his smach, dii m h sam,, li h l i h abl, abv h lamb, h yiid by hashm, b bl. N d chla is m ha s ally aal iSai, , caily, may hi acics ivi h aach silc!I sms a ic acic h, h ai s ccasiallyi a c-b; b h, i h Pis la, i is ah v s. F xaml, had scacly iishd a lis i cil ccasi, h bcam aa h cls ximiy _dams_, h bh li asla v sh ld, i hb. F hal a h s, hy lld s sisly hv , ccasially si ad ci asly h, il ad i b ahdd ad h i a d li aais Q Isabl, dhd, ad ai s ha is i h chaac h vm ad l, hich, byh ay, h md ashi li is .I all h als sid alladlid, vyhi mids s cibly h Eas, ad ads vidc h Oial dsc h Saiad.Th is, i ac, m ch h i h assi ha Sai is b _l'Ai i ci _. Th a h sam h, hi, d sy ads,bdd by ahy acacias, ad ivi bih h al; h sambaz, dy, ad id sady lais ad s d s. Th a may h sam la-d h ss, aais hs dazzli alls h iad lad cas hi shads. Th a h sam b, smi- dchis, sh i Aabic-s di ds ad haci m ls hassdih cl d day.Wh l ads h , s vas cv alls sadidialy, as hs sss, ad il a il a s ab ildis, dms, ad s, isi aais h bl , sly sy iall hi slm ba y. Wh h ciy, ad al al h

cl hih ss, lavi h s ly lais bhid s bai i d sad la, h y s ld alacs cvd i baacs adalms-h ss, ad Mish c s ad Ghic halls, aalyalss ay sav la-bi bas, m mbli Babl ly

s ha la a, h cal ab , scachi hmslvs, halasl, amids icly ics ad bl cl ms. Evyh bsv s ac l, hdd m, m sahd i d sash,sid cla, ad yll shi, li ly m bahh smb's shad. Th Saiad sms dlih i a dy h s.M ls a clad i ay ais, ad h h ss a aid i bihcl s; y vyh, , s di, dcay, ad slh, ad alld by abmiabl smlls.I ambls as h _aad_ h ch ch Sa Pabl,h s ams hich a li lac- xc d hh dd yas a. This, h is _aads_ i Casil, asb i h ih c y by h Abb alladlid, F. J ad T mada, ad iishd by h D Lma a h bii h svh c y. W assd i h ba i l ai adc h Cli d Sa Gi, ad ald amids h allsial illas, s i Ghic achs, lih ad lvly. W hsa d h ich saicas, ih is cavd s bal sads,dimiishi aay i dl-li dlicacy, ad ld h c ih all is chislld allis. Ev i hs ba i ls c s lc as visibl. Wds i may lacs cvd hmabl, ad h smll dah smd smh li a d.T a damy mid, hich asily vibas a ch y, i is a ad l x y i hs i ld ch chs,h h lih is s bd d ad h ai is cl, m h scchis ad la ih . W h s, ccasially, lid h c ai, adassd d h ch h cahdal alladlid. Is m ss a Cihia cl ms sad i all hi ai sh, asi ach h ld. Th cl vaili i his ch ch isy ad sb. Th is smhi ad ad hami s i is h is; b i is simliciy i aas m li sm massivs lch h as ha h ml a sai s lii.Scad s m a li b h alas, ad hsill ms dvs a bdi h cld avm. Bazas ad ly ailis s d h chi, h h hich cl di s mv idisicly, as i a dam. Th is sm maiicda a cavi. Cl ss as ic h h h lm, adh mlachly cha disa chiss chs sly h h haisls. O aai i a s y ma-lac, ih isy-li ms ai h d, ams h mls ad mas, h s adas. Diy h h ac l m, smi cias, ad ald i sy clas, ih hi hads id i a dy chis, a l iab i ic s s al; hil hs i blac smb, vlvbchs, ad jac add ih mal b s, a ladi am ls, dcd i vivid h sis. Fah a m Mish-lim, ih ich had, si by a ai sid; ad abv alil bys, chd i h blis, clai h ch ch blls ihhay d-ill.Th Saiad is caily vy c s by a , ad alh hally shy is, ms axi s las hm h h idshm _chz l i_, ad sd hm aay ih d imssis bh his c y ad himsl. W li, ccasi, a smm m i h , h y lm iishd mass ddly addssd s by aisi hi has, ad a lily

i s cias, sd s bli hm by a isci hi cl b. O c s lad d s. This sablishm,hich d b cl ad cmabl h, csisd as i ly ms, dcad _ la Waa _, illd ih lil

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