Summer in Denmark | July 27-Aug 2

Free access to 70 museumsand attractions in the

entire metropolitan area

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SUMMERIN DENMARK

Frederiksberg, fairest of allParis, Denmark

Authentic, charming, ÆrøDiscover Funen

Denmark’s only English-language newspaper

Summer in Denmark: 27 July - 2 August 2012

2

Neighbourhood safari | Frederiksberg

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The city within the cityBy Elise Beacom

FROM THE OUTSIDE, Frederiksberg might look like a part of Copenhagen – but this leafy district stands alone, and it’s

considered Denmark’s fifth largest city in its own right. The neighbourhood, located west of the city centre, is particularly

popular among hip young families. These pram-pushers relocate to Frederiksberg when their family empires start ex-

panding beyond the confines of a small apartment. Big parks, wide avenues and houses with gardens are commonplace, and

it is those open spaces that attract so many affluent young families to the area. Seeing strikingly attractive men accompanied

by a baby stroller or feeding the ducks at Frederiksberg Gardens is a regular occurrence here. With its history firmly cemented

in the upper-class, Frederiksberg was once home to Denmark’s royals. The district dates back to 1651, when King Frederik III

allowed 20 Danish–Dutch peasants to settle and farm the land around Allégade that had previously belonged to the royal

family. But the farming was unsuccessful and most of the town burned down in 1697, leaving the peasants unable to pay their

taxes. In fact, to this very day, lower tax rates remain a legacy in Frederiksberg. And while area is considered upper-class, it is

well-balanced by the clusters of students and new families who call the district home.

OURPICK!

Copenhagen Zoo. You can sneak a peek at just the elephants from Frederiksberg Have if you don’t fan-cy monkeying around inside. (Roskildevej 32)

EAT

Going out for brunch is one of life’s simple

pleasures. And in Frederiksberg, there are

plenty of mid-morning meal options available.

Café Granola on Værnedamsvej has a vintage,

1930s atmosphere with nostalgic décor and dishes

to match; the freshly squeezed juice will give you the get-up-

and-go you need to start your day. Laundromat Café is an-

other fantastic brunch spot. The newest in the Laundromat

series, this charming venue on Gammel Kongevej makes doing

laundry much easier to stomach. For another novel experience,

try a regular-sized coffee at the World’s Smallest Coffee Shop

on Tullinsgade. What this tiny café lacks in size (it has only

five seats), it more than makes up for it with its larger-than-

life atmosphere – and the world’s smallest hotel is located just

upstairs. Bjørnekælderen on Frederiksberg Allé has yummy

smørrebrød, and at the upper end of the price scale, Formel B

on Vesterbrogade pairs quality Danish ingredients with French

cooking techniques.

Granola Café. The set brunch menu at this bustling little café will leave you feeling content and satis-fied. (Værnedamsvej 5)

SHOP

Food is the overriding theme on Værnedamsvej – one of Fred-

eriksberg’s cutest shopping areas. This street of mouth-wa-

tering treats is located between Vesterbrogade and Gammel

Kongevej. If you’re hosting a dinner party, Le Gourmand sells

French foodstuffs, and Helges Ost has delectable cheeses and

Italian specialties like olives and sausages. To wash it all down,

Juuls has a great selection of European wine and whisky, and

the classy chocolate store Summerbird will melt any chocohol-

ic’s resolve. To dish up these treats on some equally exquisite

dinnerware, the place to visit is the Royal Copenhagen Factory

Outlet on Søndre Fasanvej. For something to wear, Samsøe &

Samsøe is good for young ladies and gents who like to stay

on trend, or visit the shopping mall Frederiksberg Centeret

on Falkoner Allé for designer brands. And if all else fails,

the Frederiksberg flea market, located behind City Hall, runs

most Saturdays during the summer.

Samsøe & Samsøe. For modern, easy-to-wear clothing in that minimalistic Scandinavian style. (Værnedamsvej 12)

AFTER DARK

When it comes to nightlife, Frederiksberg is a quieter part of the

city, but the district does offer a few good nightspots. On Julius

Thomsen Plads, Forum is an excellent live-music venue that

attracts some of the world’s biggest bands and hosts various

cultural festivals. For another generous dose of culture, some

wonderful local productions take the stage at Betty Nansen

Theatre on Frederiksberg Allé – though many of the perfor-

mances are in Danish. If salsa is more your style, Café Kel-

lerdirk, also on Frederiksberg Allé, comes to life at nightfall; for

beginners to the sassy salsa, an instructor leads the way on

Mondays. Or there’s the much smaller and cosier Café Intime

– decorated with flickering candles, coloured lamps and a clut-

tered interior. This quaint Allégade bar somehow squeezes in a

piano when live jazz and classical-music acts play there. And if

you have a hankering for Eastern European beer, Café Svejk on

Smallegade will satisfy.

Forum. There’s always something going on at this venue, like the Japanese Festival Aug 18-19. (Julius Thomsen Plads 1)

Nørrebro

Hellerup

Østerbro

ChristianshavnFrederiksberg

Vesterbro

DO

In an area bursting with lush green parks,

it’s no surprise that Frederiksberg has one

of most attractive and expansive gardens

in urban Denmark. Frederiksberg Have is a

wonderful spot to have a picnic and throw a

frisbee on a warm day. If time is on your side, take a boat

tour through the gardens or meander through the labyrinth

facing Pile Allé. Adjacent to the park, with its main entrance

on Roskildevej, is Copenhagen Zoo. In addition to featuring a

savannah where various animals can roam and interact, this is

the only zoo outside of Australia that has Tasmanian devils on

display. The nearby Frederiksberg Palace offers monthly tours,

and City Hall on Smallegade is another impressive structure –

it may have been built so large due to its rivalry with the City

of Copenhagen. For another taste of Danish culture, Storm P

Museum, at Frederiksberg Runddel, celebrates the drawings of

Robert Storm Petersen, a famous Danish artist and author.


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OPEN ALL DAYS

FREDERIKSBORG CASTLE

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Sunday to Friday from 12 to 16 (unless there are religious ceremonies)

Domkirkens Museum · Københavns Domkirke · Vor Frue Kirke Nørregade 8 · 1165 København K www.domkirken.dkfo

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Rococo-mania is an unconventional museum experience that explores rococo as a phenomenon of the past as well as the present.

CONTEMPORARY ART AND DESIGNIN DIALOGUE WITH CRAFTS FROM THE 1700’S

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THE MOST BEAUTIFUL MUSEUM In THE wORLD


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Feeling cooped up in Copenhagen? If you’ve got a touch of wanderlust but can’t get out of the city, why not make a grand

tour of Europe in your hometown? There are plenty of places where you can experience the best of some of Europe’s great

metropolises. This summer, we’ll take you to Berlin, Amsterdam, Rome and Paris – without ever leaving the Copenhagen area.

Next destination: Paris.

By Julie W. Tovgaard

WHETHER IT’S FOOD, fashion or fine art, there’s no

escaping the influence of Paris. Copenhagen, too,

has taken some of its inspiration from the City of

Cities. Start by visiting the National Gallery’s French collection,

which houses paintings, sculptures, drawings and ceramics

from one of history’s most creative periods. All of the artists

featured in the collection have ties to Paris. While they con-

tributed in some way to the city’s thriving art scene between

1900 and 1930, they also shocked the middle-class with their

abstract and expressive works. The National Gallery houses

works by Picasso, Derain, Braque and Matisse, who receives

special attention with his own special permanent exhibit.

After the museum, head over to Den Franske Bogcafé, a

French bookstore and café on Fiolstæde, to discuss expres-

sionism over a cup of café au lait and a petite madeleine or

while you browse the headlines in Le Monde.

Next, head north out of the city to Hillerød to explore Den-

mark’s answer to Versailles. Frederiksborg Castle is Scandi-

navia’s largest Renaissance building, and no expense was

spared during its construction. Frederiksborg was intended to

be a symbol of King Christian IV’s power and to impress other

European rulers of the day. The Versailles-inspired castle gar-

dens are worth a visit in and of themselves: here, you can

both enjoy the symmetry of a baroque garden and the more

relaxed atmosphere of a wild garden.

On your way home, visit the Ordurpgaard Museum in Charlot-

tenlund. Founded by merchant Wilhelm Hansen, the museum

is stocked with the multitude of French pieces he was able to

purchase through his business connections. His home became

a gallery, and he opened it to the public in order to introduce

Denmark to French art. The museum’s collection has works

by Monet, Morisot and Pissaro, and their motifs include eve-

rything from idyllic agrarian scenes to grim depictions of the

rise of industrialism.

Looking for the flavour of a Parisian market? Head down to

the new Torvehallerne marketplace on Israels Plads in central

Copenhagen. There, you’ll find fish, cheese, herbs and plenty

of other delicacies for the perfect French-inspired meal. Hun-

gry for something now? Queue up at Ma Poule and order one

of its famous sandwiches with confit de canard.

Still have room for more French flavour? End your Parisian

visit at L’éducation Nationale on Larsbjørnsstræde. There, you

can order authentic French cuisine served on red-checked ta-

blecloths to complete the bistro atmosphere. Bon appétit!

Nicholas Bro, 40,actor

“I’ve been living in the same flat near the National Mu-seum since I was 12, so I’ve been there more times than I can count. Sundays were always free, and that was my

chance to get away for a little while. The permanent col-lection at the National Gallery is also special to me. I was there a lot during my teenage years. I wanted to be an art-ist, so I took lessons with an artist who showed me how to look at the paintings in a different way. He told me to walk through quickly and try to capture everything I saw. Then I had to do it again. Eventually, I became pretty familiar with the collection. The Glyptotek was another museum I visited a lot. I always had the place to myself, which is great when you’re a teenager and just want to be alone. When I turned 18, I decided I wanted to be a rock star and stopped going to museums entirely.

“The visual arts are easily approachable, but few really show much interest in it. That’s kind of a shame, but it’s probably because people want something more social. The performing arts, on the other hand, are a more social art form, and proba-bly one of the most advanced forms of art we have. I consider film to be far behind theatre as an art form. Film can only express itself in realist terms, but theatre has so many other forms of expression to turn to. But, like visual arts, perform-ing arts appear to only be the select few. The visual arts will never go out of style – we’ll always perform for others – and that means that people will never question their validity as an art form. The narrow appeal probably has a lot to do with the way we’re brought up to see it. It’s kind of like when people say that literature doesn’t appeal to them, even though they may not have read more than 12 books in their lives. It’s just a matter of trying until you find something you do like.

“We need to keep hold of our historic places, if only because losing them would be unthinkable. You can’t turn away from your past without creating a society right out of ‘1984’ – a society without common identity or any sort of relationship to the past. I find that to be just too dark a thought. It’s like blowing up 2,000-year-old Buddha statues because you aren’t a Buddhist.”

By Marie Louise Tüxen

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Your click to Copenhagen area museums & experiences


“chance to get away for a little while. The permanent col-


“chance to get away for a little while. The permanent col-

Europe in Copenhagen ...


5

WHO ARE THE DANES? FROM ABSOLUTE

MONARCHS TO THE MODERN WELFARE STATEWhat is a Dane, and which historical events have influ-

enced Danish culture over the past 350 years? Find out

during a guided tour of the permanent exhibition ‘Stories

of Denmark: 1660-2000’. Please sign up at the Informa-

tion Desk to attend. The guided tour takes place Tues Jul

31 at 11:00.

The National Museum

Ny Vestergade 10

Copenhagen K

natmus.dk

GUIDED TOURS OF THE DANISH JEWISH MUSEUMGet the inside story behind Daniel Libeskind’s design for

the museum housing 400 years of Jewish history in Den-

mark. The tour offers highlights from the museum’s per-

manent collection, ‘Space and Spaciousness’. Tours avail-

able Fri Jul 27, Sun Jul 29 and Wed Aug 1 at 14:00.

Danish Jewish Museum

Proviantspassagen 6

Copenhagen K

jewmus.dk

FIRST CLASS!

A HUMOURIST REINTERPRETED BY EIGHT FANSIn this exhibition, eight of cartoonist and humourist Storm

P’s biggest fans were chosen to create their own personal

exhibition of his drawings. Their impressions of his work help

to draw a picture of Storm P as an artist, illustrator, philoso-

pher, humourist and satirist. Their vastly different selections

underscore the diversity of Storm P’s work and his ability to

continue to communicate with us today.

Storm P Museum

Frederiksberg Runddel

Frederiksberg

stormp-museet.dk

THE FARMER’S ANIMALSGet up close and personal with the animals at the Open Air

Museum. Feel rough chicken feet, soft lamb’s wool or hard

goat horns. Tours start at the Rømø farm building. Meet the

farm animals Tues Jul 31-Thurs Aug 2. Tours begin at 10:30.

Open Air Museum

Kongevejen 100

Kgs Lyngby

natmus.dk

CIRCUS WORKSHOP FOR THE FAMILYTry your hand at juggling or hang from a trapeze under the

watchful eye of a professional circus performer. There will

be plenty of activities and lots of laughs at the Circus Mu-

seum’s family workshop on Sun Jul 29, 11:00-12:30.

Circus Museum

Hovedporten 6

Hvidovre

cirkusmuseum.dk

For FamiliesEvents

Exhibitions Lee Friederlander:

America by carIn this exhibition, legend-

ary master photographer

Lee Friedlander compiles

192 black-and-white pho-

tographs – all taken from

the interiors of rental cars

– to draw a remarkable

portrait of modern America.

Friedlander creates visual

encounters, where steer-

ing wheel and dashboard

meet classic American land-

scapes, motels, monuments,

trucks and road signs.

We also sometimes get a

glimpse of Friedlander him-

self in the side mirrors.

The Royal Library,

Black Diamond

Søren Kierkegaards Plads 1

Copenhagen K

kb.dk

Frida ZachariassenFrida Zachariassen was

born in the Faroese town

of Klaksvík, and she has

become a maverick in the

world of Faroese art. Over

the years – and in her char-

acteristic form of expression

– Zachariassen painted a

modern chronicle of con-

temporary life in and around

Klaksvík, with many of her

works depicting named

people and places. And it is

precisely this portrayal of

mankind’s affinity with na-

ture that makes Zacharias-

sen stand out in the field of

Faroese landscape art.

Nordatlantens Brygge

Strandgade 91

Copenhagen K

bryggen.dk

Europe meets the worldEurope is constantly chang-

ing and in constant dialogue

with the world around it.

Focusing on nine themes in

European history, this exhi-

bition tells the story of how

Europe has interacted with

other cultures over the past

2,500 years – from ancient

Greece to the modern-day

challenges of globalisation.

The National Museum

Ny Vestergade 7

Copenhagen K

natmus.dk

A far-off warDaily life in a Danish army

camp is presented in this

hands-on exhibition, which

recreates the sights and

sounds experienced by

combat soldiers in Afghani-

stan. Most of the items on

display were used as actual

field equipment there, and

they show signs of wear

and tear from the deploy-

ment.

The Royal Arsenal Museum

Tøjhusgade 3

Copenhagen V

thm.dk

Afgang 2012Meet the next generation of

contemporary artists when

art gallery Nikolaj Kunt-

shal holds its second an-

nual ‘Afgang’ exhibit. Find

out where up-and-coming

artists are turning their at-

tention. Art forms include

installations, videos, paint-

ings, sculptures, sketches,

audio, performances and

textiles.

Nikolaj Kunsthal

Nikolaj Plads 10

Copenhagen K

nikolajkunsthal.dk

Circus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus MuseumCircus Museum

www.cirkusmuseum.dk

Circus Workshop

Every Sunday in July

11-12.30

Hovedporten 6 ● Hvidovre ● Sun-Thursday 11-15

The

ON LOANMasterpieces

from Skagens Museum

4 May - 3 September 2012

www.hirschsprung.dkOpen daily 11 AM - 5 PM Closed Mondays

•

•

Your click to Copenhagen area museums & experiences

SCULPTURE • ARCHITECTUR • PAINTINGS

BERTEL THORVALDSENS PLADS 2, COPENHAGEN KOPEN TUESDAY-SUNDAY 10-17 WWW.THORVALDSENSMUSEUM.DK


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Island Hopping | Ærø

Ærø oozes with idyllic charm, but what visitors might not

notice is that this island is every bit as modern as it is historic

By Jennifer Weitz-Clancy Poulsen

ÆrøGeographically positioned just north of Germany, Ærø is

one of Denmark’s sunniest communities. On a clear day,

Germany is visible – but several delightfully situated Dan-

ish islands are within view almost every day. An integral

part of the Ærø island experience is the trip itself. Ferries

depart from four locations: Fynshav, which connects Ærø

with southern Jutland and Germany; Faaborg, connect-

ing to southern Funen; Svendborg, connecting Ærø to that

city’s lovely tall-ship harbour, restaurants and profes-

sional services; and Rudkøbing on Langeland, providing

access to south-eastern Zealand via Lolland and ferries

travelling to Germany.

AUTHENTIC ÆRØ is a small, fully functional island

where the best of the old meets the best of the new.

Protected from the harsh winds along the west coast

of Denmark and the heavily salted waters of the Atlantic

Ocean, archaeological evidence reveals that Ærø was set-

tled as far back as 11,000 years ago. It is an island brimming

with history, historic places and historians … while also being

highly sophisticated in terms of green energy, heat produc-

tion and a balanced lifestyle.

Not accessible by bridge, Ærø’s relatively remote location

has led to a natural preservation of its old ways and un-

spoiled nature that attracts both new residents and tourists

from around the world. Curious couples, artists and antiquers,

families, fishermen and those wanting to indulge in outdoor

activities in a safe and social atmosphere are all drawn to this

location – which is definitely far from the madding crowd.

The island once consisted of two distinct land masses con-

nected by a small isthmus on the south-eastern side of the

island, but land-building activities took place in the 18th and

19th centuries, and Ærø now measures 88 sq km – about

4 kilometres between the two farthest points. Nevertheless,

it offers an impressive 167 kilometres of coastline. And the

unique shape of the island, with its many peninsula-like ex-

tensions and smaller islands off in the distance, lends itself to

wonderful views at every turn.

‘Charm’ is the key word on Ærø: charming villages, charm-

ing houses and charming people abound. Modern structures

are generally the exception, while quaint historic farmhouses

and farmhouses from the early 20th century are the rule.

In Ærøskøbing, once the island’s central town, as many as

29 buildings are registered; the oldest dates back to the 17th

century. And this is how the islanders like it. Local preserva-

tion initiatives resulted in Ærøskøbing receiving the Europa

Nostra Cultural Heritage award in 2002, and similar joint

efforts have allowed museums to restore commercial and

residential buildings that otherwise would have fallen into

disrepair.

In addition to buildings, these initiatives also extend to the

restoration of the tall ships and shipyard buildings that are

found throughout the island. Several buildings are worth a

closer look: notably, Hammerichs Hus, a true classic in the

centre of Ærøskøbing; the manor house at Søbygaard; and

the lighthouse and golf course in Skjoldnæs at the western-

most tip of the island. It is also well worth the effort to in-

clude island churches and churchyards on your itinerary –

these historic buildings have stories to tell, and provide a real

taste of how Danish austerity combined with maritime and

agrarian cultures to guide post-pagan spirituality.

Visitors will appreciate the many diverse and delightful na-

ture parks residents have preserved to protect wildlife habi-

tats in recent decades. Among these are ‘Gråsten Nor’, a 3 sq

km lowland constructed from shallow waters by a purpose-

built dam in 1856; it is home to deer, fox, hare, pheasants,

migratory birds and unique plant species. Other favourites

include the picturesque salt-marshes of Vitsø Nor to the

south and west; Ærø Nature Park, a hilly, wooded area in the

north-western part of the island, adjacent to the water where

landowners co-operated to suspend land-use and encourage

the land’s natural development; and the steep coastal hills of

Voderup Klint on the southern shore facing Germany – here,

clay deposits and heavy rains caused the steep coastland to

collapse, creating kelly-green terraced hills and striking wa-

terside vistas. Guided tours are offered year round by local

conservation groups, and tourists are always welcome to

gently enjoy these areas on their own.

But don’t let Ærø’s natural beauty and charming old build-

ings fool you: the island is also a well-established leader

when it comes to high-tech communications and sustain-

able living. High-capacity telecommunications cables make

it possible for residents to telecommute to work. Quaint NEXT WEEK: MØNNEXT WEEK: MØNNEXT WEEK: MØN

Ærø

It doesn’t get any morecharming than this


7

Island Hopping | Ærø

windmills from days gone by grace Ærø’s landscapes, but

numerous public and private initiatives have resulted in the

placement of high-efficiency windmills that surpass the is-

land’s own energy demands. Beneath many villages’ idyllic

cobblestone streets lay pipes that deliver water heated at

large solar-panel farms nearby; Ærø was among the first to

distribute heat and hot water by means of these farms. And

having developed the world’s largest such facility, the island’s

administrators are now topping that accomplishment with

a major expansion, which is meant to serve as a model for

similar development throughout the European Union.

The best way to experience this mix of rustic charm and

modern development – according to American travel guru

Rick Steves (as well as this author) – is by bicycle. Fami-

lies can take advantage of local paths near colourful caba-

nas and sandy beaches near the towns of Ærøskøbing and

Marstal, while those wishing to cover greater distances can

easily make use of managed routes throughout the island.

Ærø’s most recent addition, called Nevresti, should appeal

to cyclists at every level. Starting in Ærøskøbing and extend-

ing for 3.5 coastal kilometres, this pleasant path awakens

all the senses. It goes along the bay, bordered by wild roses

and wheat fields, passing grazing sheep, boats, birds and

fishermen’s’ huts, before joining with other paths that enable

cyclists to wade in the water or enjoy a picnic lunch. Alter-

nately, you can continue on to the Stone Age burial grounds

(jættestue) in Krægnæs; the local airport, where island-sight-

seeing tours are highly recommended on sunny days; or fur-

ther to Marstal for shopping and a bite to eat (approximate

distance: a flat 10 kilometres).

Planning ahead is easy by means of local historian and bi-

cycle enthusiast Allan Harsbo’s English-language website

(www.bike-erria.dk/eng). Here, visitors can find guidebooks

in English with cycle routes developed by the author, as well

as options for booking bicycles in advance. It’s the perfect

way to balance fitness and fun with relaxation – as Ærø’s

locals have been doing for centuries.

Stay

Ærø offers accommodations for every kind of

traveller. Campers can take advantage of ‘primi-

tive’ campsites throughout the island, including

covered shelters along the Nevresti bicycle path.

Those visiting for a weekend will enjoy accom-

modations at island B&Bs, pensions and hotels.

Many prefer to stay for three days to one week

or longer, while some visitors want to work re-

motely and rent for longer periods; in this case,

fully furnished vacation homes and apartments

are most convenient. Networks of summer holi-

day-rental agencies can be found online.

OURPICK!

Eat

Ærø’s restaurants tend to be seasonal with some open only

in summer, after which their owners return to other jobs. Con-

tact the tourist bureau for opening hours. Frequently open in

Ærøskøbing are Røgeriet – a smoked-fish café at the harbour

and worth a visit for the smell alone – and Det Lille Hotel, situ-

ated across from the town’s quaint duck pond and offering finer

meals. Equally comfortable but with shorter seasons, Café Aro-

ma offers healthy meals and homemade ice cream, and Res-

taurant Mumm serves delicious food in a charming atmosphere.

Marstal has several pizzerias: a summer favourite (and serving

the island’s best) is Pronto Pizza at the yacht harbour. Also in

Marstal are the restaurants Kongensgade 34 and Den Gamle

Vingaard – both serve varied menus at reasonable prices and

offer good service. For the best ribs in town, head to the harbour

kiosk in Søby. To hear different island dialects – visit an island

inn (kro).

OURPICK!

Den Gamle Vingaard. For variety, service, outdoor dining,

healthy options and quality, go to this favourite in Marstal

(check opening hours at den-gamle-vingaard.com).

Weekend warriors. Pension Vestergade

with host Susanne is easily accessible,

and offers unmatched service and charm

year round. For those with more time, try

a week-long stay at a guest house. Search

for accommodations at feriepartner.com.

Getting thereAlthough it is possible to reach Ærø by private

boat, plane or helicopter, most visitors arrive by

ferry. Reservations are recommended for travel

with a car (aeroe-ferry.com).

Get local on Ærø, and let the family fun begin in one of its three main towns, which of-

fer unique children’s playgrounds with barbecues by the sea. Enjoy archipelago waters

by way of classic ships sailing out of Marstal and Ærøskøbing mid-week, or island hop

with the island’s newest skipper, Peter Kjær. Bicycle enthusiasts will enjoy routes that

run easterly via Nevresti or, more challenging, westerly towards Borgnæs and beyond.

Those who appreciate antiques should check out the flea markets (loppemarked), in-

cluding ‘Flintholmgård’ in Leby or Ærøskøbing’s quaint antique shop. Art is on display at

shops and galleries across the island, and lively folk music at Café Dræsinen is recom-

mended. Classical music can also be heard here and, as with music festivals and other

special events, it’s best planned through the island’s tourist bureau. Lovers should also

beware – getting married here is very popular! Contact wedding arranger Louise Molo-

ney with Danish Island Weddings. OURPICK!

Hammerichs Hus. Located at Ærøskøbing Museum, this is a must-do year round, while sum-

mer guests should make a point of visiting Café Dræsinen or attending the Ærø Jazz Festival.

Do


8

Regional | Southern Jutland

FunenVisit Funen, the third largest of Denmark’s many is-lands, to see south-central Denmark. Experience something different as you travel through rolling green hills, stop at roadside fruit, potato and fresh-flower stands, and enjoy the warm and welcoming Southern Danish Archipelago. With the major city of Odense easily accessible by train, you can head from the train station right to the city centre to visit Hans Christian Andersen’s birthplace. For shopping or thea-tre, head out to the nearby Funen Village, where his-toric buildings have been re-established in a setting truly reminiscent of days gone by. Bring your family or meet up with friends for a day at Egeskov Castle, situated inland near Svendborg; many other manor houses also grace this most fertile of Danish land-scapes. Travel through villages and along coastland by bicycle. And whatever you do, head south and set sail among the 90-plus islands sprinkled throughout the region’s calm and lovely Baltic waters – here, you’re sure to build memories to last a lifetime!

Nestled between hectic Zealand and broad-shouldered Jutland, Funen is brimming with charm and hospitality

By Jennifer Weitz-Clancy Poulsen

Lying in the centre of Denmark, Funen and the 90 islands

of the Southern Danish Archipelago are linked by both

cultural and commercial bonds. The region’s larger and

well-populated islands Taasinge, Thurø and Langeland are

connected to Funen by bridge. More distant, the island of

Ærø is accessible by ferry from several ports (see page 7); the

largest and most picturesque of these is the tall-ship harbour

in Svendborg, Funen’s second-largest city. Three smaller in-

habited islands, Drejø, Skarø and Hjortø, can also be reached

by ferry from Svendborg.

The island of Funen is between Denmark’s two largest land

masses – Jutland to the east and Zealand to the west. Zea-

land, home to Copenhagen and a stone’s throw from Swe-

den, is accessed by the Great Belt Bridge, which totals about

6.8 kilometres in length and has two major components,

each meeting on the island of Sprogø. Formerly an isolated

island in the strait separating Funen and Zealand, Sprogø was

dramatically enlarged during bridge construction, which was

completed in 1998. Passing motorists will undoubtedly notice

the vast number of birds and other animals that make their

homes on Sprogø – and the island once also housed unwed

mothers and other outcast women.

The state-owned company operating the Great Belt Bridge

established seven windmills in waters nearby in 2009; today,

they generate enough energy to meet the bridge operations’

power demands. On its western side, Funen connects to the

Jutland peninsula by way of two bridges: the Old Little Belt

Bridge, completed in 1935 and allowing limited car and train

traffic today; and the New Little Belt Bridge, completed in

1970 and bearing most of the traffic between the two regions.

Funen and its surrounding islands were first inhabited by

hunter-gatherers after Denmark’s last Ice Age, around 11,000

BC. Artefacts that reveal structures, bodies and implements

used for survival have been found and excavated under the

archipelago seas, with additional evidence showing up dur-

ing road and farming operations. Consistently occupied and

largely agricultural, Funen is known for its rich soil and good

growing conditions; Danes affectionately refer to it as ‘the

green island’. Roadside stands with potatoes and vegetables

are common, and fishing villages offer delicious, fresh options

for healthy, flavourful eating. Also due to its agricultural suc-

cess, the area has many well-heeled manor houses, some of

which have been turned into museums, conference centres,

parks and hotels that welcome visitors.

The region’s centre has long been the city of Odense, which is

centrally located on the island and home to a major port, ini-

tially developed in the 19th century. Also home to the island’s

largest hospital and university, it is the birthplace of Hans

Christian Andersen. Carl Nielsen, the country’s best-known

classical composer, was born and raised in southern Funen

near the town of Faaborg.

NEXT WEEK: ZEALANDNEXT WEEK: ZEALANDNEXT WEEK: ZEALAND

Funen

Denmark’s green heartland


StayOpportunities abound. Kayakers, bi-

cyclists and hikers can find free or

inexpensive camping areas – called

‘primitive’ tenting – by calling local

tourist bureaus or using an interactive

map (udinaturen.naturstyrelsen.dk). The map is only

in Danish, but click on the box that says ‘overnatning’

to the left, and select the desired area. The region’s

hostels (vandrerhjem) are usually well-suited for

budget-minded travellers, including families. Many

hotels are available with lodging by the sea, and

castles offer a different kind of overnight experience.

To get closer to local culture, vacation-home rent-

als, B&Bs and lodging in inns (kroer) can offer more

intimate and down-to-earth experiences. Those who

want to stay someplace off the beaten path can get

a rental on a working farm (bondegård); families

are also welcome to participate. And Danish camp-

grounds offer micro-cabins in pleasant park-like set-

tings.

9

Regional | Southern Jutland

DoOutdoor enthusiasts should set their sights on the well-networked Archipelago

Trail, which crosses the sea and islands; it allows for healthy outdoor experiences

that traverse farms, fishing villages, coastal vistas and historic sites (detsydfyn-

skeoehav.dk). When the weather is good, seeing the islands by sea is a must. Or-

ganised or self-planned bicycle tours with ferry travel are a great way to accom-

plish this. Licensed sailors can rent boats online, and those who want to sit back

while others take the helm can charter the schooner Fylla or take sail with captain

and crew with the Maritime Center in Svendborg; fishing can also be included in

these sailing trips. Be sure to visit local museums and experience Funen Village in

Odense. If time permits, the Odense Zoo is recommended.

OURPICK!

tourist bureaus or using an interactive

OURPICK!

EatFood in the Funen region generally reflects the typical Danish

menu of meat and potatoes, plus wine and dessert. But fresh

seafood and healthy meals can be found with a little planning.

Odense and Svendborg offer the greatest selection, but seaside

villages and fresh-food stands should not be overlooked for excel-

lent produce. For fine dining in charming surroundings, Michelin-

rated Falsledkro near Faaborg is recommended. For a few less

kroner, visit Den Gamle Kro in Odense. Both offer accommoda-

tions as well as fine dining. Enjoy high-class meals at Hotel Ærø

at the harbour in Svendborg. And if you want a healthy, gener-

ous meal among the locals in Svendborg, head over to nearby

Jettes Diner. Also worth visiting in Svendborg – especially if you

are heading to the ferry – is Bendixens Fiskehandel, which offers

great take-away. You can enjoy restaurants throughout the island

region – just check ahead to make sure they’re open.

OURPICK!

If you have the time, plan outdoor adventures that take advantage of the many opportunities found in the area. Otherwise, be sure to visit Egeskov Castle, which has something for everyone: well-maintained gardens, a car and plane museum, a labyrinth, tree-top walking, a farming museum, a café and – for an extra fee – access to the castle itself.

Falsled Kro. For those who won’t wince at the prices, this place hard to beat. For reliable, enjoyable healthy meals with outdoor dining, Jettes Diner is the hands-down pick.

To fully experience Funen’s charm, combine a visit to one of the region’s quaint villages or towns with a stay at a pension or B&B. Be sure to check online sources for customer rat-ings beforehand.


Strandgade 27 B1401 Copenhagen www.dac.dk

a world of architecture & designexhibitionsCAFebooKs/shoPVisit us at the harbour front in central copenhagen

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Summer in Denmark | July 27-Aug 2