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The third of The Copenhagen Post's six summer sections. This week, we look at Vesterbro, find Rome in Copenhagen, island hop to Fanø and discover southern Jutland
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Free access to 70 museumsand attractions in the
entire metropolitan area
See more at copenhagencard.com
SUMMERIN DENMARK
Vibrant VesterbroFind Rome, here at home
Fanø, fantastic islandDiscover southern Jutland
20-26 July 2012
Denmark’s only English-language newspaper
2
THE SEEDY red lights draw an eclectic crowd to this up-and-coming district. The central avenue, Istedgade, is particularly
pulsating, with sex shops and topless bars lining the way to Central Station. Located on the brink of the city centre,
Vesterbro was originally the workers’ district, and that hustle and bustle remains. On any given morning, you might see
greengrocers unloading their trucks, commuters descending upon the train station on their way to work and partiers slinking
off home after one too many. While ladies of the night and addicts are two of the groups more commonly associated with this
area, an increased police presence has cleaned up Vesterbro over recent years. Nowadays, it’s becoming increasingly trendy –
especially around the meatpacking district, Kødbyen, where a number of niche bars have sprung up. Once an area reserved for
butchers, the establishment of art studios and alternative restaurants now attract a fashionable and artsy crowd. On balmy
summer nights, the area is often lit up with a bonfire – drawing the night owls like moths to a flame. But even on cooler nights,
the warm glow emanating from the cosy bars and eateries along Halmtorvet is attraction enough.
DO
Carlsberg Brewery is worth a visit. Wander
through the multimedia exhibition to learn
the back-story about this successful beer
brand, sniff some key ingredients in the aro-
ma room and wander through the stables to see the impres-
sive Clydesdale horses. The old brewery is open daily except
Mondays and the 70kr entrance fee includes two drinks – a
choice of beer or soft drink. If you prefer cocktails by the pool,
Copencabana, open from June to August, is an artificial beach
that serves as one of the city’s most popular harbour swim-
ming pools. Located behind the shopping centre Fisketorvet,
the palm trees and Moroccan atmosphere are complemented
by North African-inspired food. DGI-Byen has indoor swim-
ming and diving for the sportier types, and if you don’t want
to get wet, you can see big musicals at the beautiful Det Ny
Teater on Gammel Kongevej or take in a film at The Imperial
Cinema on Ved Vesterport.
Carlsberg Visitors’ Centre. Gain some insight into ‘prob-ably the world’s best beer’ (Gamle Carlsberg Vej 11).
EAT
The meatpacking district wouldn’t seem the first
port of call for good seafood, but Fiskebar is
outstanding for fabulous fresh seafood without
the pomp. The nearby Nose2Tail will delight
carnivores and make cheap off cuts taste fantas-
tic. Also in Kødbyen, Mother’s sourdough pizzas are
done in the Italian way – with an impossibly thin base. But if
an ice cream is all you can fit in, Sicilian Is on Skydebanegade
sells flavourful whole-milk ice cream made from Sicilian ingre-
dients. Francophiles will love the flaky, buttery croissants found
at the rustic French patisserie and café, Det Franske Konditori
on Ohlenschlægersgade, or there’s Les Trois Cochons on Værn-
demsvej for a competitively priced set menu of French fare.
For something more exotic, LêLê nhà hàng on Vesterbrogade
serves modern Vietnamese cuisine and has a lively atmosphere.
If all you need is a caffeine hit, the coffee is consistently good at
Kaffe on Istedgade, where a small upstairs room is decorated
like a courtyard garden – complete with a synthetic lawn.
Mother. For delicious Napoli-style wood-fired pizzas in a cosy setting (Høkerboderne 9-15).
SHOP
Looking past the blaringly obvious sex shops lining Istedgade,
the shopping scene in Vesterbro offers an interesting combi-
nation of independent boutiques and one-stop shopping cen-
tres. Vesterbrogade is a decent place to start if you’re after
mid-range clothes and shoes. Designer Zoo, also on Vester-
brogade, is a great launching pad for local designers. Along
similar lines, ArtRebels in the meatpacking district is the flag-
ship store of an online art collective by the same name. This
special shop features artwork, fashion, jewellery and other
nifty products conceived by the country’s newest designers.
Where Vesterbro and neighbouring district Frederiksberg
meet, Værndemsvej is also dotted with cool clothes shops
and food outlets. If you prefer to do all your shopping in
one place, Fisketorvet (aka Copenhagen Mall) is the desti-
nation. And when the shopping gets tiresome, you can seek
refuge in the cinema located in the same complex.
ArtRebels. Support local talent and pick up something truly unique (Kødboderne 18).
AFTER DARK
Formerly Copenhagen’s red-light district, Vesterbro has long
been famous for its nightlife. Though seedy bars are still in
abundance around Istedgade, the meatpacking district has
a myriad of hip and happening drinking and dancing spots.
Classy nightclub Karriere Bar has tasty cocktails, and its over-
23 rule keeps out the teenagers. For live music, you can’t do
better than Vega on Enghavevej. The venue has two different
spaces – Store Vega and Lille Vega – and hosts both local
and international bands. A popular choice for the concert af-
terparty is the attached Ideal Bar, which has no door charge
and a pumping dance floor. For a quieter night, Lola’s Café
on Sønder Boulevard is a good pick for watching high-profile
sporting matches. And serious beer drinkers should hop over
to the classy Mikkeller on Viktoriagade to taste some of the
20 beers on tap. The microbrewery has decidedly delicious
beers, and the friendly bar staff will help guide your selections.
Mikkeller. The sophisticated interior of this cool beer
bar sets it apart from the dregs (Viktoriagade 8B-C).
Summer in Denmark: 20-26 July 2012 Neighbourhood safari | Vesterbro
OURPICK!
OURPICK!
OURPICK!
OURPICK!
Frederiksberg
Nørrebro
Hellerup
Østerbro
Christianshavn
NEXT WEEK: FREDERIKSBERG
The heart of cool
Vesterbro
By Elise Beacom
3
Summer in Denmark: 20-26 July 2012
OPEN ALL DAYS
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THE MOST BEAUTIFUL MUSEUM In THE wORLD
4
Summer in Denmark: 20-26 July 2012
Feeling cooped up in Copenhagen? If you’ve got a touch of wanderlust but can’t get out of the city, why not make
a grand tour of Europe in your hometown? There are plenty of places where you can experience the best of some
of Europe’s great metropolises. This summer, we’ll take you to Berlin, Amsterdam, Rome and Paris – without ever
leaving the Copenhagen area. Next destination: Rome.
By Julie W. Tovgaard
THEY SAY that all roads lead to Rome, and that includes
Copenhagen’s H. C. Andersen Boulevard – where the
Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek is located – as well as Gammel
Strandvej in the village of Nivå, which is home to Nivaagaard
Museum.
Looking to spend a Roman holiday without leaving Denmark?
Start at Thorvaldsens Musuem in Copenhagen, which houses
the works of sculptor Bertel Thorvaldsen (1770-1844). Thor-
valdsen lived in Rome for more than 40 years, becoming one
the most renowned artists of his day. The museum’s classic
architecture style accentuates the sculptures, and the richly
decorated galleries are worth experiencing in their own right.
Thorvaldsen took his artistic inspiration from Greek and Ro-
man mythology, and he was commissioned to carve busts
and other sculptures; most of this work was requested by his
contemporaries, including members of the clergy and royalty.
Not far from Thorvaldsen’s is The Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek.
Take a step back into ancient Rome and enjoy Scandinavia’s
largest collection of art objects from antiquity, which provide
visitors with insight into Mediterranean culture during the clas-
sical period. The museum’s café, decorated with palms, will
inspire you to think about the Colosseum and the Vatican as
you enjoy a slice of Italian-inspired cake.
If you’re truly into Italy, you won’t want to miss the Royal
Cast Collection at the National Gallery. The display consists
of casts of some of the most important works from antiquity
up through the Renaissance, and allows you to get close to
mythological animals, Greek gods, Roman emperors and lithe
athletes. The works – which include a cast of Michelangelo’s
Pietá from St Peter’s Basilica in Rome – are made of plaster,
and some of them are in better condition than the original
works.
Lovers of Italian painting should visit the Nivaagaard Museum,
which houses works by Giovanni Bellini, Lorenzo Lotto, Berna-
dino Luini and other Italian masters.
For those into more modern Italian creations, check out
Designmuseum Denmark. There, you’ll find works by the
Memphis group, famous in the 1980s for creating furniture
that often incorporated unexpected material combinations.
As your day roaming Copenhagen for Italian inspiration draws
to a close, drop into a Ricco’s café for a cup of cappuccino. If
you’re looking to put together your own Italian meal, stop in
at Supermarco on Fiskerihavnsgade 3 in the Sydhavn district.
There, you’ll find a veritable paradiso of pasta, wine, cheese
and any other Italian delicacy you can imagine.
Steen Bocian, 41,chief economist, Danske Bank
“My girlfriend is from Hungary, and when she’s in Denmark, she wants to see Danish art. Being in Co-penhagen with her is always an experience because,
as a foreigner, she looks at things from a totally different perspective. Recently, she took me to the Hirschsprung Collection, and even though I generally prefer more modern and abstract art to works done by the Skagen Painters, I enjoyed being there. I like the way that art provides a sort of diversity that you don’t always find in the otherwise monotonous world I live in. One of the nice things about museums like the Hirschsprung is that it’s on a human scale. When a museum gets too big, you can’t really appreciate what you’re seeing.
“When I was a kid, my mother often took me to So-phienholm when she wanted to do something special with me. That’s something I now do with my own chil-dren. In the summer, we like to ride out to the museum and to enjoy not just the art, but also the park and the view of Bagsværd Lake. It’s a safe bet if you are looking for something to do with children. It’s small and, when you’re done, you can sit outside at the café while the kids roll down the hill. I don’t usually visit museums for
their exhibitions – I’m more interested in their location and the overall experience of being there, which is why Sophienholm is nice. You can enjoy both nature and art while you’re there.
“I’ve never felt any sort of obligation to go to museums. It needs to be something that amuses you, even adults. Arken [in Sydhavn] is the kind of place where the archi-tecture accentuates the natural surroundings, especially on dreary winter days. Art is something that’s living, and I don’t find it necessary to be lectured about what I’m seeing. I want the art itself to be the experience. It’s re-freshing that Arken is located in a part of Greater Copen-hagen that isn’t normally associated with art or culture.”
By: Fie Krøyer Dahl
Pho
to: S
imon
Bøc
ker
Mør
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Europe in Copenhagen ...
FRENCH MASTERPIECES
Dantes plads 7 • 1556 Copenhagen • www.glyptoteket.com
My museumwhere I experience art
Your click to Copenhagen area museums & experiences
5
PERFORMANCE: ABSTRACTIONS ON FILM ON BODY
Experience the Lasse Barkfors performance ‘Abstractions
on film on body’ at the Nikolaj Contemporary Art Centre.
A part of the Afgang 2012 exhibit featuring the next gen-
eration of contemporary artists, the performance will be
held on Sun Jul 22 at 15:00.
Nikolaj Contemporary Art Centre
Nikolaj Plads 10
Copenhagen K
kunsthallennikolaj.dk/en
GUIDED TOURS AT THE DANISH JEWISH MUSEUM
Get the inside story behind Daniel Libeskind’s design for
the museum housing 400 years of Jewish history in Den-
mark. The tour offers highlights from the museum’s per-
manent collection, titled ‘Space and Spaciousness’. Tours
available Fri Jul 20, Sun Jul 22 and Wed Jul 25 at 14:00.
Danish Jewish Museum
Proviantspassagen 6
Copenhagen K
jewmus.dk
WHO ARE THE DANES – AMBER, GOLD AND VIKINGS
By looking at a selection of particularly fine and unique
artifacts, this guided tour takes you through the different
periods of Danish prehistory, from the Stone Age to the
Vikings. Free admission – just sign up at the Information
Desk to attend. The guided tour takes place on Tue Jul
24 at 11:00.
The National Museum
Ny Vestergade 10
Copenhagen K
natmus.dk
HUNTING AND FORESTRY MUSEUMIf you are interested in learning about the connection be-
tween humans and nature, the best way to do it is by using
all your senses. At the Hunting and Forestry Museum, you
are allowed to touch many of the items on display and expe-
rience for yourself the difference between fox and badger fur,
rabbit and deer feet or seal and deer teeth.
Hunting and Fishing MuseumFolehavevej 15-17, Hørsholm
jagtskov.dk
VÆRKBOKSENVÆRKboksen is the J. F. Willumsen Museum’s three-dimen-
sional, interactive offering for families interested in explor-
ing art. VÆRKboksen is stocked with activities and other art
items to provide inspiration and entertainment for the whole
family. And because it’s mounted on wheels, it’s easy to take
around the museum and use to learn more about the works
on display.
J. F. Willumsen MusuemJenriksvej 4, Frederiksundjfwillumsensmuseum.dk
WATER – A WORLD OF ADVENTUREA bone-dry ride through the wet element, this exhibition al-
lows you to fight with the power of the sea. See if you can
save someone who has fallen overboard from a ship. The
850 sq m exhibition features over 50 thrilling activities and
fascinating experiments with water for you to dive into.
ExperimentariumTuborg Havnevej 7, Hellerupexperimentarium.dk
For FamiliesEvents
Exhibitions
Mary Coble: ManeuveringIn this solo exhibition, Mary
Coble links video and audio
pieces with a new installa-
tion and a live performance.
While each of her pieces
engages with different ap-
proaches to performance, all
of the work is marked by a
physicality that ultimately
gives way to an opportunity
for discovery among the au-
dience.
Overgaden – Institute of Contemporary ArtOvergaden Neden Vandet 17 Copenhagen Kovergaden.org
In praise of powerHigh politics and the art of
propaganda take centre
stage when Thorvaldsens
Museum opens its doors to
the exhibition ‘In Praise of
Power’. Featuring works by
Thorvaldsen, graphic prints
and paintings from 19th-
century Rome and France
and with a plaster copy of
Napoleon Bonaparte’s death
mask, the exhibition provides
visitors with ample opportu-
nity to examine the worlds
of Napoleon, Alexander the
Great and Thorvaldsen.
Thorvaldsens MuseumThorvaldsens Plads 2Copenhagen Kthorvaldsensmuseum.dk
German world images, 1890-1930Rare works from the national
gallery’s permanent collec-
tion tell the story of one of
the most turbulent periods
in the history of German art.
Through the works of Wass-
ily Kandinsky, Paul Klee and
Emil Nolde, the exhibit de-
picts the German modernists’
quest to identify the national
identity.
National GallerySølvgade 48-50Copenhagen Ksmk.dk
On loanSome of the Skagens Mu-
seum’s finest pieces – by,
among others, Michael and
Anna Ancher, Viggo Jo-
hansen, Christian Krohg and
Oscar Björck – are in Copen-
hagen this summer. They
will be shown along with the
Hirschsprung’s own Skagen
paintings.
The Hirschsprung CollectionStockholmsgade 20Copenahgen Øhirschsprung.dk
Rococo ManiaDesignmuseum Danmark
invites its guests to reflect
on the connection between
the past and the present.
The past is illustrated by se-
lect pieces of 18th-century
clothing from the museum’s
permanent collection, while
the present is represented by
works from four contempo-
rary artists.
Designmuseum DenmarkBredgade 68Copenhagen Kdesignmuseum.dk
Summer in Denmark: 20-26 July 2012
Circus Museum
www.cirkusmuseum.dk
Circus Workshop
Every Sunday in July
11-12.30
Hovedporten 6 ● Hvidovre ● Sun-Thursday 11-15
The
ON LOANMasterpieces
from Skagens Museum
4 May - 3 September 2012
www.hirschsprung.dkOpen daily 11 AM - 5 PM Closed Mondays
•
•
•
Your click to Copenhagen area museums & experiences
SCULPTURE • ARCHITECTUR • PAINTINGS
BERTEL THORVALDSENS PLADS 2, COPENHAGEN KOPEN TUESDAY-SUNDAY 10-17 WWW.THORVALDSENSMUSEUM.DK
6
Summer in Denmark: 20-26 July 2012 Island hopping | Fanø
At Denmark’s western edge, residents of Fanø find that clinging to traditions of the past is the key to their future survival
By Rachel Payne
FanøLocated 5 kilometres west of Esbjerg, Fanø is the north-
ernmost of a string of islands that line the coast of south-
western Jutland and northern Germany between the
North Sea and the Wadden Sea. The island, formed by
wind, sand and sea, offers all of the usual ingredients for
a relaxing summer holiday: broad beaches, picturesque
towns, outdoor sports, local food and beverages, music
and nature trekking. But its unique blend of tangible his-
tory and folk traditions plus new attractions like ‘blokart-
ing’ and contemporary art makes Fanø more than your
average family-holiday island. Its appeal stretches far
wider and caters to a range of tastes and interests. The
choice of accommodation alone – from camping and rec-
reational resorts to cosy cottages and inns – makes al-
most any holiday a possibility. And all of this is squeezed
quite comfortably, and leisurely, into Fanø’s slender 56
sq km frame.
YOU’VE HOPPED on the train at Copenhagen’s Central
Station and travelled west across the country almost
as far as you can go, reaching the port city of Esb-
jerg. Heading over to the ferry port, you’re now faced with
two signs: ‘England’ and ‘Fanø’. If you’ve missed the boat to
Harwich or don’t fancy the 18-hour voyage, you’re likely to
choose a trip to the peaceful Danish island that is only a
12-minute ride away by ferry.
An array of festivals, outdoor activities and concerts bring
Fanø to life during the summer months, and its summerhous-
es and camping sites are popular among Danish and inter-
national visitors alike. But Fanø is not just a holiday island or
an extension of Esbjerg, Denmark’s fifth-largest city. It has
its own distinct history, cultural traditions, food, architecture,
natural landscapes and political structure.
More than 2,600 of Fanø’s residents live in Nordby and, be-
cause it lies north-east, it is the first part of the island that
visitors encounter after they leave Esbjerg’s industrial port,
cross the Wadden Sea by ferry and suddenly find themselves
surrounded by heritage-listed houses and beautiful gardens.
Sønderho, in the south, is home to almost 300 peole, and
even fewer live in the third-largest town, Rindby, which ex-
tends out to the island’s biggest summerhouse area and the
beach – a beach so broad and solid on some stretches that
cars are allowed to drive on it.
This relatively small community in western Denmark wel-
comes approximately 125,000 tourists each year, but it
maintains such a natural and cultural charm that visiting the
island can feel like a step back in time, especially when the
island’s traditional events are in full swing.
An island of its ownFanø was documented as land of the Danish crown from
as early as the 13th century, but its community strived for
greater independence. In 1741, they finally won an auction for
the island and bought it from King Christian IV. A copy of the
original charter is still proudly on display at the local bank.
Fanø’s residents confirmed the island’s strong identity in
2005 when they voted to preserve Fanø’s status as an in-
dependent municipality (Denmark’s second smallest) during
the country’s municipal reform. The island only has 3,247 in-
habitants in all, but a special ‘island agreement’ has made it
possible for Fanø to co-operate with Esbjerg without losing
its independent status.
Gaining more autonomy in the 18th century allowed the is-
land to switch its main industry from fishing to ship construc-
tion, navigation and trade. Fanø’s sailing-ship era took off
during the 1760s and boomed in the late 1800s, the island’s
‘golden age’. Its first navigation school was established in
Sønderho in 1800.
A signature of Fanø’s history that can be seen all year round
is its houses, originally built by sailors and farmers. About
100 are protected, and stand more or less as they did when
they were reconstructed with bricks and mortar around 1800.
The best-preserved houses are in Sønderho and parts of Nor-
dby; there, residents must strictly adhere to the original style
(including their distinctive green, white and black trimmings)
and materials when they maintain them.
Visitors who sail over to Fanø for Sønderho Day or to enjoy
the ‘Fanniker’ weekend celebrations in July will get to ex-
perience the complete package of architecture, folk music,
dances, costumes and other traditions that reflect an era that
is cemented in the island’s identity.
“We have developed a special type of music and dance on
the island that was inspired by the sailors who went to Hol-
land, Belgium and further out,” says Poul Therkelsen, Fanø’s
director of tourism. “We put a lot of effort into trying to main-
tain it – not only as a museum piece, but as a living part of
our identity and our culture.”
Contemporary FanøFanø’s tourism industry, which has surpassed shipping as the
island’s primary industry, now reflects a blend of old-world
charm, modern innovation and local produce. As Therkelsen
points out, it is a clear case of “old culture meeting new cul-
ture” and sharing inspiration.
“We have a number of artists living here and that, of course,
is inspiring the old culture. Some of the people who are main-
taining the old traditional dances and music are also mixing it
with modern electronic music, rock and jazz,” he says.
Fanø’s diverse music festivals and concerts are a clear exam-
ple of the island’s emphasis on culture, and the inauguration
of several new events in recent decades – such as the Inter-
national Kite Fliers Meeting, Art Week and the Fanø knit-
ting festival – has meant that, per capita, Fanø now ranks
among the top ten Danish councils that invest money in cul-
tural events. Claus Winther, manager of the brewery Fanø
NEXT WEEK: ÆRØ
Culture, nature and seclusion
Fanø
u
7
Island hopping | Fanø Summer in Denmark: 20-26 July 2012
Bryghus, believes the quality and variety of the island’s
produce is also playing a big part in increasing the island’s
appeal:
“The brewery is a good example of something that thrives
here; we have a fantastic butcher, we have Fanø smoked
salmon and we have lots of good artists.”
One of Fanø’s newer personalities is Winther’s colleague,
American brewer Ryan Witter-Merithew; he moved to the
island three years ago to help Winther re-open the micro-
brewery. Although he was easily recognisable at first for his
long, red beard, Witter-Merithew didn’t expect to become a
well-known face in the community.
“I would say that there are a lot of people who know me on
Fanø but who I do not know myself,” he says. “I do get no-
ticed a fair bit on the island, which is strange for me because
I’m not used to that.”
Best of both worlds?The island’s residents have decided not to increase tourist
traffic by building a bridge or causeway to the mainland, as
neighbouring island Rømø has done. Witter-Merithew recog-
nises that it is a modern-day challenge for Fanø to promote
the island’s specialities while preserving its peaceful atmos-
phere and natural landscape, which is now widely protected
as part of the Wadden Sea National Park.
“The people who live here and generate their living on the
island – such as me and the people I work with – are always
interested in ways we can build Fanø as a tourist destination.
But the people who live here and don’t earn any money from
the island aren’t as interested in that stuff because they like
the fact that Fanø is a secluded place where they can just
enjoy themselves,” he says.
While Fanø continues to offer a vibrant combination of cul-
ture, nature and seclusion, there’s certainly no reason why
visitors can’t enjoy the best of both worlds.
Stay
Even though summer is the most popular time
to visit Fanø, it’s possible to stay in one of the
island’s summerhouses, hotels, B&Bs, inns – and
even at its campsites – all year round. There
are 2,500 summerhouses available for rent, and
around half of these can be booked online. As a
cosy compromise between the more traditional
summerhouse and the all-weather camping ex-
perience, quaint cottages with kitchen facilities
and electric heating are also offered at Camping
Klitten, one of Fanø’s seven campsites, located in
Sønderho. Those looking to pamper themselves
with a more luxurious getaway can retreat to
Kellers Badehotel or the historical Sønderho Kro.
OURPICK!
Eat
Whether you decide to dine out, entertain family and friends at
your summerhouse or bring a bag of delicacies back across the
sea, there is something for the gourmet or gourmand on Fanø.
Sønderho Kro, Restaurant Ambassaden and Sylvesters offer
stylish set menus featuring local produce, and Nana’s Stue and
Fajancen in Sønderho combine traditionally-inspired fare with
a taste of history in their café/restaurant galleries. There are
also plenty of family-friendly options, like Nørby Kro and Hans
& Grethe Creperie. Fanø’s culinary specialities have become a
brand in themselves, and you’re likely to come across ‘the origi-
nal’ Fanø skinke (cured ham) or other products from Nordby’s
gourmet butcher on restaurant menus in Copenhagen. Bakskuld
(salted, smoked dab) is a southern Jutland delicacy that has its
roots in Fanø – it is a must-try for adventurous seafood lovers.
OURPICK!
Sønderho Kro. Founded in 1722, the inn is one of Den-
mark’s historical treasures and showcases local speci-
alities, including its own home-smoked fish and meats
(sonderhokro.dk/english).
Summerhouse. Why not go for the authen-
tic Danish summer holiday experience and
rent your own summerhouse by the sea?
It’s a versatile option for families with chil-
dren, groups of friends or couples.
Getting thereThe Fanø ferry (FanøFærgen) departs from the
Port of Esbjerg (Esbjerg Havn) every 20 min-
utes between 9:00 and 20:00 daily in the sum-
mertime. The crossing takes 12 minutes. More
timetable information and ticket prices can be
found at faergen.com.
Fanø’s outdoor activities are plentiful in the summertime. There’s lots for children to do,
whether it’s swimming, mini-golfing, playing ‘nature detective’ or joining in the fun at Pæle-
bjerget’s forest playground. The more adventurous kids and adults can try blokarting –
sand sailing – or kayaking along the Wadden Sea. Or you can simply take a leisurely bike
ride or walk through the picturesque sand dune meadows, or even explore the landscape
on horseback. Golfers can try out Fanø’s 18-hole Golf Links, and fishing enthusiasts can try
their luck at the beach in Sønderho or the fishing lake in Nordby – but you’ll need to pay a
fee before you can cast your line into the water. The island’s cultural days, street-theatre
performances, storytelling and folk-music festivals bring the main towns to life during July
and August, and weekly classical-music and guitar concerts run until late August. You will
need to wait until June 2013 to see the skies burst into full colour at the Fanø International
Kite Fliers Meeting, but a junior version from August 1-5 this year invites families to bring
their own kites to the beach in Rindby or join in kite-making workshops.
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Seal safari. From late spring, junior and senior ‘nature detectives’ should keep an eye out for
seals on the sandbanks by Nordby Havn, or you can take a guided boat or walking tour to
Grådyb or Galgerevet. Learn more at færgen.com, in the events section of the website.
Do
u
Summer in Denmark: 20-26 July 2012
8
Regional | Southern Jutland
Southern JutlandDuring your visit to southern Jutland, don’t be con-fused if someone says ‘goodbye’ using the same word that he greets you with. In the local dialect, ‘mojn’ means both – and the locals will be delighted to hear you give it a try. The entire region is a charming mix of friendly people, attractions, beaches, great places to eat and culture. Enjoy Danish history all the way from the Viking era up to the war of 1864, which saw the loss of significant Danish territory. This is also the area to visit if you are looking to enjoy some relaxed beaches. Both the east and west coasts provide many options. Looking to get out and explore nature? Head all the way down south to the island of Als where two large forests are situated, or head west to the Wad-den Sea, an intertidal zone. Want to satisfy your need for thrills? Be sure to check out the roller-coasters at Legoland or Sommerland Syd. No matter how you choose to enjoy your holiday, southern Jutland is the place to make it a memorable one.
At the crossroads of history, a great place to unwindBordering Germany, southern Jutland offers great beaches and an up-close look at Denmark’s past
By Desirae Rasmussen
IT IS no surprise that the southern Jutland region is the roy-
als’ destination of choice for the summer holidays. Being
so close to the mainland of Europe means stable warm
weather during the summer months: it is never too hot and
rarely cold or wet. This makes the region ideal for summer
days spent outside enjoying the local natural areas, be it for-
ests on the island of Als or beaches on the west coast.
Speaking of beaches, southern Denmark is the place to go
if you are looking for a holiday that involves a lot of beach
time. On the west coast, the soft-sanded beaches of Blåvand
offer plenty of space and the chance to do some windsurfing.
To the east lies the Flensburg Fjord, where the calm waters
are perfect for the entire family to go swimming. And be sure
to check out Kægnæs on Als, where some of the region’s best
beaches are located.
But the area is about more than just good weather and
great beaches. It is also filled with culture and history, which
changes the further south you travel. Starting in the north
near Jelling, you can experience the roots of Danish history
with Europe’s finest Viking-Age monuments and a UNESCO
World Heritage Site. Moving south, the history is not as old
and the culture becomes more flavoured by German influ-
ences. But don’t assume that this makes the region any less
Danish. Important parts of Danish history happened here, in-
cluding the signing of a peace treaty with Germany following
the Battle of Dybbøl. To learn more about this and the other
wars that took place in the region, be sure to visit the town of
Sønderborg, where there are numerous historical attractions.
No trip to southern Jutland would be complete without a
trip across the border to do some shopping – prices in Ger-
many are cheaper. Stock up on beer, soda and sweets, but
make sure to devote an entire afternoon because the shops
are very busy at this time of year. Want to avoid the long
lines? Plan a day-trip to the German city of Flensburg, take
in some local sights and shop at one of the larger shopping
centres in the evening on your way home.
Looking for a family-friendly holiday? This is easy in south-
ern Jutland. Located on the island of Als, Danfoss Universe
is a science centre that is sure to fascinate the entire family.
Looking for a theme park? Check out Sommerland Syd in
Tinglev. And don’t forget Legoland in Billund, which is sure
to keep everyone entertained on a warm summer day. Both
Sommerland Syd and Legoland also have water parks should
you tire of the rides and want to beat the heat.
No matter how you decide to spend your holiday in southern
Jutland, be sure to master the word ‘mojn’, which means both
‘hello’ and ‘goodbye’ in the local dialect.
SouthernJutland
NEXT WEEK: FUNEN
StayChoosing a place to stay
in southern Jutland can be
difficult because there are
so many options. On the east
coast, Gl. Ålbo is a great choice.
The area offers campsites, cabins and holi-
day homes. You also have some wonderful
opportunities for fun there, including fishing,
boating and diving. Looking for something on
the west coast? Hotel Kommandørgården on
Rømø is a nice place – it offers many differ-
ent holiday packages that include activities
like golfing and horseback riding. Want to
be close to everything? Choose to stay at a
summerhouse at Lalandia Billund, right in the
heart of the region.
Summer in Denmark: 20-26 July 2012
9
Regional | Southern Jutland
DoDon’t be fooled by the region’s calm outward appearance – there’s plenty to ex-
plore in southern Jutland. The visitors’ centre at Battlefield Centre Dybbøl Banke
is well worth a visit, and throughout the summer, the region has a number of
Ringriding Festivals, which look like jousting, but actually involve an individual rid-
er trying to stick a pointy pole into increasingly smaller rings at a galloping speed.
For a few thrills of your own, head over to one of the region’s two amusement
parks or Sommerland Syd in Tinglev. Looking to spend the day on the beach?
Head west to Rømø, where you can drive right out onto the beach to reach the
water, and where you can also enjoy the sight of different kites being flown; many
beaches offer kite rentals.
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EatSouthern Jutland is full of great places to eat with a total of eight
restaurants that have earned Gastronomy Danmarks Quality Mark.
In the town of Ribe, you’ll find the charming Kolvig Restaurant &
Café, which has a terrace overlooking a river. If you’re looking for
a fine-dining experience, head south and eat at either Schacken-
borg Slotskro or Hotel Fakkelgaarden. Perhaps you’re hungering
for something a little more international. If so, be sure to stop in
Sønderborg and book a table at Restaurant Dejengis Khan Mongo-
lian Barbecue. After dinner, take a walk along the pedestrian street
and get dessert at one of the ice cream or chocolate shops.
OURPICK!
The beaches on Rømø stretch as far as the eye can see, and no matter which way you look there’s something going on, be it kite flying, land sailing or surfing. Going for a swim? Be sure to drive all the way out on the sand until you see water to avoid a long walk (read more: romo.dk).
Restaurant Dejengis Khan Mongolian Barbecue. It’s an all-you-can-eat buffet with two different food options, and the prices are reasonable. The build-your-own-stir-fry op-tion is a great choice (St. Rådhusgade 13, Sønderborg).
Lalandia Billund. Renting a summerhouse here also grants you free entrance to the Aqua-dome, Monky Tonky Land and vari-ous children’s entertainment. Choose to cook your own dinners, but be sure to check out one of the local restaurants while you’re there (more information available at lalandia.dk).
NEXT WEEK: FUNEN
ASIAN STREET PARTY SATURDAY 28 JULY FROM 11-22 AT PUMPEHUSET Dragon Dance // Kickboxing // Vietnamese street kitchen // Magician // Ping-Pong // Henna Tattoos // DJ Sets // Learn to make spring rolls with Anh Lê // Live Music // After Party // Asian surprises & much more... // Free admission //
FIND THE EVENT “ASIAN STREET PARTY” ON FACEBOOK AND READ MORE ABOUT IT. ASIAN STREET PARTY ARRANGED BY PUMPEHUSET, LÊLÊ STREET KITCHEN & TIGER BEER