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Free access to 70 museums and attractions in the entire metropolitan area See more at copenhagencard.com SUMMER IN DENMARK Vibrant Vesterbro Find Rome, here at home Fanø, fantastic island Discover southern Jutland 20-26 July 2012

Summer in Denmark | July 20-26

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The third of The Copenhagen Post's six summer sections. This week, we look at Vesterbro, find Rome in Copenhagen, island hop to Fanø and discover southern Jutland

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Page 1: Summer in Denmark | July 20-26

Free access to 70 museumsand attractions in the

entire metropolitan area

See more at copenhagencard.com

SUMMERIN DENMARK

Vibrant VesterbroFind Rome, here at home

Fanø, fantastic islandDiscover southern Jutland

20-26 July 2012

Denmark’s only English-language newspaper

Page 2: Summer in Denmark | July 20-26

2

THE SEEDY red lights draw an eclectic crowd to this up-and-coming district. The central avenue, Istedgade, is particularly

pulsating, with sex shops and topless bars lining the way to Central Station. Located on the brink of the city centre,

Vesterbro was originally the workers’ district, and that hustle and bustle remains. On any given morning, you might see

greengrocers unloading their trucks, commuters descending upon the train station on their way to work and partiers slinking

off home after one too many. While ladies of the night and addicts are two of the groups more commonly associated with this

area, an increased police presence has cleaned up Vesterbro over recent years. Nowadays, it’s becoming increasingly trendy –

especially around the meatpacking district, Kødbyen, where a number of niche bars have sprung up. Once an area reserved for

butchers, the establishment of art studios and alternative restaurants now attract a fashionable and artsy crowd. On balmy

summer nights, the area is often lit up with a bonfire – drawing the night owls like moths to a flame. But even on cooler nights,

the warm glow emanating from the cosy bars and eateries along Halmtorvet is attraction enough.

DO

Carlsberg Brewery is worth a visit. Wander

through the multimedia exhibition to learn

the back-story about this successful beer

brand, sniff some key ingredients in the aro-

ma room and wander through the stables to see the impres-

sive Clydesdale horses. The old brewery is open daily except

Mondays and the 70kr entrance fee includes two drinks – a

choice of beer or soft drink. If you prefer cocktails by the pool,

Copencabana, open from June to August, is an artificial beach

that serves as one of the city’s most popular harbour swim-

ming pools. Located behind the shopping centre Fisketorvet,

the palm trees and Moroccan atmosphere are complemented

by North African-inspired food. DGI-Byen has indoor swim-

ming and diving for the sportier types, and if you don’t want

to get wet, you can see big musicals at the beautiful Det Ny

Teater on Gammel Kongevej or take in a film at The Imperial

Cinema on Ved Vesterport.

Carlsberg Visitors’ Centre. Gain some insight into ‘prob-ably the world’s best beer’ (Gamle Carlsberg Vej 11).

EAT

The meatpacking district wouldn’t seem the first

port of call for good seafood, but Fiskebar is

outstanding for fabulous fresh seafood without

the pomp. The nearby Nose2Tail will delight

carnivores and make cheap off cuts taste fantas-

tic. Also in Kødbyen, Mother’s sourdough pizzas are

done in the Italian way – with an impossibly thin base. But if

an ice cream is all you can fit in, Sicilian Is on Skydebanegade

sells flavourful whole-milk ice cream made from Sicilian ingre-

dients. Francophiles will love the flaky, buttery croissants found

at the rustic French patisserie and café, Det Franske Konditori

on Ohlenschlægersgade, or there’s Les Trois Cochons on Værn-

demsvej for a competitively priced set menu of French fare.

For something more exotic, LêLê nhà hàng on Vesterbrogade

serves modern Vietnamese cuisine and has a lively atmosphere.

If all you need is a caffeine hit, the coffee is consistently good at

Kaffe on Istedgade, where a small upstairs room is decorated

like a courtyard garden – complete with a synthetic lawn.

Mother. For delicious Napoli-style wood-fired pizzas in a cosy setting (Høkerboderne 9-15).

SHOP

Looking past the blaringly obvious sex shops lining Istedgade,

the shopping scene in Vesterbro offers an interesting combi-

nation of independent boutiques and one-stop shopping cen-

tres. Vesterbrogade is a decent place to start if you’re after

mid-range clothes and shoes. Designer Zoo, also on Vester-

brogade, is a great launching pad for local designers. Along

similar lines, ArtRebels in the meatpacking district is the flag-

ship store of an online art collective by the same name. This

special shop features artwork, fashion, jewellery and other

nifty products conceived by the country’s newest designers.

Where Vesterbro and neighbouring district Frederiksberg

meet, Værndemsvej is also dotted with cool clothes shops

and food outlets. If you prefer to do all your shopping in

one place, Fisketorvet (aka Copenhagen Mall) is the desti-

nation. And when the shopping gets tiresome, you can seek

refuge in the cinema located in the same complex.

ArtRebels. Support local talent and pick up something truly unique (Kødboderne 18).

AFTER DARK

Formerly Copenhagen’s red-light district, Vesterbro has long

been famous for its nightlife. Though seedy bars are still in

abundance around Istedgade, the meatpacking district has

a myriad of hip and happening drinking and dancing spots.

Classy nightclub Karriere Bar has tasty cocktails, and its over-

23 rule keeps out the teenagers. For live music, you can’t do

better than Vega on Enghavevej. The venue has two different

spaces – Store Vega and Lille Vega – and hosts both local

and international bands. A popular choice for the concert af-

terparty is the attached Ideal Bar, which has no door charge

and a pumping dance floor. For a quieter night, Lola’s Café

on Sønder Boulevard is a good pick for watching high-profile

sporting matches. And serious beer drinkers should hop over

to the classy Mikkeller on Viktoriagade to taste some of the

20 beers on tap. The microbrewery has decidedly delicious

beers, and the friendly bar staff will help guide your selections.

Mikkeller. The sophisticated interior of this cool beer

bar sets it apart from the dregs (Viktoriagade 8B-C).

Summer in Denmark: 20-26 July 2012 Neighbourhood safari | Vesterbro

OURPICK!

OURPICK!

OURPICK!

OURPICK!

Frederiksberg

Nørrebro

Hellerup

Østerbro

Christianshavn

NEXT WEEK: FREDERIKSBERG

The heart of cool

Vesterbro

By Elise Beacom

Page 3: Summer in Denmark | July 20-26

3

Summer in Denmark: 20-26 July 2012

OPEN ALL DAYS

FREDERIKSBORG CASTLE

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Page 4: Summer in Denmark | July 20-26

4

Summer in Denmark: 20-26 July 2012

Feeling cooped up in Copenhagen? If you’ve got a touch of wanderlust but can’t get out of the city, why not make

a grand tour of Europe in your hometown? There are plenty of places where you can experience the best of some

of Europe’s great metropolises. This summer, we’ll take you to Berlin, Amsterdam, Rome and Paris – without ever

leaving the Copenhagen area. Next destination: Rome.

By Julie W. Tovgaard

THEY SAY that all roads lead to Rome, and that includes

Copenhagen’s H. C. Andersen Boulevard – where the

Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek is located – as well as Gammel

Strandvej in the village of Nivå, which is home to Nivaagaard

Museum.

Looking to spend a Roman holiday without leaving Denmark?

Start at Thorvaldsens Musuem in Copenhagen, which houses

the works of sculptor Bertel Thorvaldsen (1770-1844). Thor-

valdsen lived in Rome for more than 40 years, becoming one

the most renowned artists of his day. The museum’s classic

architecture style accentuates the sculptures, and the richly

decorated galleries are worth experiencing in their own right.

Thorvaldsen took his artistic inspiration from Greek and Ro-

man mythology, and he was commissioned to carve busts

and other sculptures; most of this work was requested by his

contemporaries, including members of the clergy and royalty.

Not far from Thorvaldsen’s is The Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek.

Take a step back into ancient Rome and enjoy Scandinavia’s

largest collection of art objects from antiquity, which provide

visitors with insight into Mediterranean culture during the clas-

sical period. The museum’s café, decorated with palms, will

inspire you to think about the Colosseum and the Vatican as

you enjoy a slice of Italian-inspired cake.

If you’re truly into Italy, you won’t want to miss the Royal

Cast Collection at the National Gallery. The display consists

of casts of some of the most important works from antiquity

up through the Renaissance, and allows you to get close to

mythological animals, Greek gods, Roman emperors and lithe

athletes. The works – which include a cast of Michelangelo’s

Pietá from St Peter’s Basilica in Rome – are made of plaster,

and some of them are in better condition than the original

works.

Lovers of Italian painting should visit the Nivaagaard Museum,

which houses works by Giovanni Bellini, Lorenzo Lotto, Berna-

dino Luini and other Italian masters.

For those into more modern Italian creations, check out

Designmuseum Denmark. There, you’ll find works by the

Memphis group, famous in the 1980s for creating furniture

that often incorporated unexpected material combinations.

As your day roaming Copenhagen for Italian inspiration draws

to a close, drop into a Ricco’s café for a cup of cappuccino. If

you’re looking to put together your own Italian meal, stop in

at Supermarco on Fiskerihavnsgade 3 in the Sydhavn district.

There, you’ll find a veritable paradiso of pasta, wine, cheese

and any other Italian delicacy you can imagine.

Steen Bocian, 41,chief economist, Danske Bank

“My girlfriend is from Hungary, and when she’s in Denmark, she wants to see Danish art. Being in Co-penhagen with her is always an experience because,

as a foreigner, she looks at things from a totally different perspective. Recently, she took me to the Hirschsprung Collection, and even though I generally prefer more modern and abstract art to works done by the Skagen Painters, I enjoyed being there. I like the way that art provides a sort of diversity that you don’t always find in the otherwise monotonous world I live in. One of the nice things about museums like the Hirschsprung is that it’s on a human scale. When a museum gets too big, you can’t really appreciate what you’re seeing.

“When I was a kid, my mother often took me to So-phienholm when she wanted to do something special with me. That’s something I now do with my own chil-dren. In the summer, we like to ride out to the museum and to enjoy not just the art, but also the park and the view of Bagsværd Lake. It’s a safe bet if you are looking for something to do with children. It’s small and, when you’re done, you can sit outside at the café while the kids roll down the hill. I don’t usually visit museums for

their exhibitions – I’m more interested in their location and the overall experience of being there, which is why Sophienholm is nice. You can enjoy both nature and art while you’re there.

“I’ve never felt any sort of obligation to go to museums. It needs to be something that amuses you, even adults. Arken [in Sydhavn] is the kind of place where the archi-tecture accentuates the natural surroundings, especially on dreary winter days. Art is something that’s living, and I don’t find it necessary to be lectured about what I’m seeing. I want the art itself to be the experience. It’s re-freshing that Arken is located in a part of Greater Copen-hagen that isn’t normally associated with art or culture.”

By: Fie Krøyer Dahl

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My museumwhere I experience art

Your click to Copenhagen area museums & experiences

Page 5: Summer in Denmark | July 20-26

5

PERFORMANCE: ABSTRACTIONS ON FILM ON BODY

Experience the Lasse Barkfors performance ‘Abstractions

on film on body’ at the Nikolaj Contemporary Art Centre.

A part of the Afgang 2012 exhibit featuring the next gen-

eration of contemporary artists, the performance will be

held on Sun Jul 22 at 15:00.

Nikolaj Contemporary Art Centre

Nikolaj Plads 10

Copenhagen K

kunsthallennikolaj.dk/en

GUIDED TOURS AT THE DANISH JEWISH MUSEUM

Get the inside story behind Daniel Libeskind’s design for

the museum housing 400 years of Jewish history in Den-

mark. The tour offers highlights from the museum’s per-

manent collection, titled ‘Space and Spaciousness’. Tours

available Fri Jul 20, Sun Jul 22 and Wed Jul 25 at 14:00.

Danish Jewish Museum

Proviantspassagen 6

Copenhagen K

jewmus.dk

WHO ARE THE DANES – AMBER, GOLD AND VIKINGS

By looking at a selection of particularly fine and unique

artifacts, this guided tour takes you through the different

periods of Danish prehistory, from the Stone Age to the

Vikings. Free admission – just sign up at the Information

Desk to attend. The guided tour takes place on Tue Jul

24 at 11:00.

The National Museum

Ny Vestergade 10

Copenhagen K

natmus.dk

HUNTING AND FORESTRY MUSEUMIf you are interested in learning about the connection be-

tween humans and nature, the best way to do it is by using

all your senses. At the Hunting and Forestry Museum, you

are allowed to touch many of the items on display and expe-

rience for yourself the difference between fox and badger fur,

rabbit and deer feet or seal and deer teeth.

Hunting and Fishing MuseumFolehavevej 15-17, Hørsholm

jagtskov.dk

VÆRKBOKSENVÆRKboksen is the J. F. Willumsen Museum’s three-dimen-

sional, interactive offering for families interested in explor-

ing art. VÆRKboksen is stocked with activities and other art

items to provide inspiration and entertainment for the whole

family. And because it’s mounted on wheels, it’s easy to take

around the museum and use to learn more about the works

on display.

J. F. Willumsen MusuemJenriksvej 4, Frederiksundjfwillumsensmuseum.dk

WATER – A WORLD OF ADVENTUREA bone-dry ride through the wet element, this exhibition al-

lows you to fight with the power of the sea. See if you can

save someone who has fallen overboard from a ship. The

850 sq m exhibition features over 50 thrilling activities and

fascinating experiments with water for you to dive into.

ExperimentariumTuborg Havnevej 7, Hellerupexperimentarium.dk

For FamiliesEvents

Exhibitions

Mary Coble: ManeuveringIn this solo exhibition, Mary

Coble links video and audio

pieces with a new installa-

tion and a live performance.

While each of her pieces

engages with different ap-

proaches to performance, all

of the work is marked by a

physicality that ultimately

gives way to an opportunity

for discovery among the au-

dience.

Overgaden – Institute of Contemporary ArtOvergaden Neden Vandet 17 Copenhagen Kovergaden.org

In praise of powerHigh politics and the art of

propaganda take centre

stage when Thorvaldsens

Museum opens its doors to

the exhibition ‘In Praise of

Power’. Featuring works by

Thorvaldsen, graphic prints

and paintings from 19th-

century Rome and France

and with a plaster copy of

Napoleon Bonaparte’s death

mask, the exhibition provides

visitors with ample opportu-

nity to examine the worlds

of Napoleon, Alexander the

Great and Thorvaldsen.

Thorvaldsens MuseumThorvaldsens Plads 2Copenhagen Kthorvaldsensmuseum.dk

German world images, 1890-1930Rare works from the national

gallery’s permanent collec-

tion tell the story of one of

the most turbulent periods

in the history of German art.

Through the works of Wass-

ily Kandinsky, Paul Klee and

Emil Nolde, the exhibit de-

picts the German modernists’

quest to identify the national

identity.

National GallerySølvgade 48-50Copenhagen Ksmk.dk

On loanSome of the Skagens Mu-

seum’s finest pieces – by,

among others, Michael and

Anna Ancher, Viggo Jo-

hansen, Christian Krohg and

Oscar Björck – are in Copen-

hagen this summer. They

will be shown along with the

Hirschsprung’s own Skagen

paintings.

The Hirschsprung CollectionStockholmsgade 20Copenahgen Øhirschsprung.dk

Rococo ManiaDesignmuseum Danmark

invites its guests to reflect

on the connection between

the past and the present.

The past is illustrated by se-

lect pieces of 18th-century

clothing from the museum’s

permanent collection, while

the present is represented by

works from four contempo-

rary artists.

Designmuseum DenmarkBredgade 68Copenhagen Kdesignmuseum.dk

Summer in Denmark: 20-26 July 2012

Circus Museum

www.cirkusmuseum.dk

Circus Workshop

Every Sunday in July

11-12.30

Hovedporten 6 ● Hvidovre ● Sun-Thursday 11-15

The

ON LOANMasterpieces

from Skagens Museum

4 May - 3 September 2012

www.hirschsprung.dkOpen daily 11 AM - 5 PM Closed Mondays

Your click to Copenhagen area museums & experiences

SCULPTURE • ARCHITECTUR • PAINTINGS

BERTEL THORVALDSENS PLADS 2, COPENHAGEN KOPEN TUESDAY-SUNDAY 10-17 WWW.THORVALDSENSMUSEUM.DK

Page 6: Summer in Denmark | July 20-26

6

Summer in Denmark: 20-26 July 2012 Island hopping | Fanø

At Denmark’s western edge, residents of Fanø find that clinging to traditions of the past is the key to their future survival

By Rachel Payne

FanøLocated 5 kilometres west of Esbjerg, Fanø is the north-

ernmost of a string of islands that line the coast of south-

western Jutland and northern Germany between the

North Sea and the Wadden Sea. The island, formed by

wind, sand and sea, offers all of the usual ingredients for

a relaxing summer holiday: broad beaches, picturesque

towns, outdoor sports, local food and beverages, music

and nature trekking. But its unique blend of tangible his-

tory and folk traditions plus new attractions like ‘blokart-

ing’ and contemporary art makes Fanø more than your

average family-holiday island. Its appeal stretches far

wider and caters to a range of tastes and interests. The

choice of accommodation alone – from camping and rec-

reational resorts to cosy cottages and inns – makes al-

most any holiday a possibility. And all of this is squeezed

quite comfortably, and leisurely, into Fanø’s slender 56

sq km frame.

YOU’VE HOPPED on the train at Copenhagen’s Central

Station and travelled west across the country almost

as far as you can go, reaching the port city of Esb-

jerg. Heading over to the ferry port, you’re now faced with

two signs: ‘England’ and ‘Fanø’. If you’ve missed the boat to

Harwich or don’t fancy the 18-hour voyage, you’re likely to

choose a trip to the peaceful Danish island that is only a

12-minute ride away by ferry.

An array of festivals, outdoor activities and concerts bring

Fanø to life during the summer months, and its summerhous-

es and camping sites are popular among Danish and inter-

national visitors alike. But Fanø is not just a holiday island or

an extension of Esbjerg, Denmark’s fifth-largest city. It has

its own distinct history, cultural traditions, food, architecture,

natural landscapes and political structure.

More than 2,600 of Fanø’s residents live in Nordby and, be-

cause it lies north-east, it is the first part of the island that

visitors encounter after they leave Esbjerg’s industrial port,

cross the Wadden Sea by ferry and suddenly find themselves

surrounded by heritage-listed houses and beautiful gardens.

Sønderho, in the south, is home to almost 300 peole, and

even fewer live in the third-largest town, Rindby, which ex-

tends out to the island’s biggest summerhouse area and the

beach – a beach so broad and solid on some stretches that

cars are allowed to drive on it.

This relatively small community in western Denmark wel-

comes approximately 125,000 tourists each year, but it

maintains such a natural and cultural charm that visiting the

island can feel like a step back in time, especially when the

island’s traditional events are in full swing.

An island of its ownFanø was documented as land of the Danish crown from

as early as the 13th century, but its community strived for

greater independence. In 1741, they finally won an auction for

the island and bought it from King Christian IV. A copy of the

original charter is still proudly on display at the local bank.

Fanø’s residents confirmed the island’s strong identity in

2005 when they voted to preserve Fanø’s status as an in-

dependent municipality (Denmark’s second smallest) during

the country’s municipal reform. The island only has 3,247 in-

habitants in all, but a special ‘island agreement’ has made it

possible for Fanø to co-operate with Esbjerg without losing

its independent status.

Gaining more autonomy in the 18th century allowed the is-

land to switch its main industry from fishing to ship construc-

tion, navigation and trade. Fanø’s sailing-ship era took off

during the 1760s and boomed in the late 1800s, the island’s

‘golden age’. Its first navigation school was established in

Sønderho in 1800.

A signature of Fanø’s history that can be seen all year round

is its houses, originally built by sailors and farmers. About

100 are protected, and stand more or less as they did when

they were reconstructed with bricks and mortar around 1800.

The best-preserved houses are in Sønderho and parts of Nor-

dby; there, residents must strictly adhere to the original style

(including their distinctive green, white and black trimmings)

and materials when they maintain them.

Visitors who sail over to Fanø for Sønderho Day or to enjoy

the ‘Fanniker’ weekend celebrations in July will get to ex-

perience the complete package of architecture, folk music,

dances, costumes and other traditions that reflect an era that

is cemented in the island’s identity.

“We have developed a special type of music and dance on

the island that was inspired by the sailors who went to Hol-

land, Belgium and further out,” says Poul Therkelsen, Fanø’s

director of tourism. “We put a lot of effort into trying to main-

tain it – not only as a museum piece, but as a living part of

our identity and our culture.”

Contemporary FanøFanø’s tourism industry, which has surpassed shipping as the

island’s primary industry, now reflects a blend of old-world

charm, modern innovation and local produce. As Therkelsen

points out, it is a clear case of “old culture meeting new cul-

ture” and sharing inspiration.

“We have a number of artists living here and that, of course,

is inspiring the old culture. Some of the people who are main-

taining the old traditional dances and music are also mixing it

with modern electronic music, rock and jazz,” he says.

Fanø’s diverse music festivals and concerts are a clear exam-

ple of the island’s emphasis on culture, and the inauguration

of several new events in recent decades – such as the Inter-

national Kite Fliers Meeting, Art Week and the Fanø knit-

ting festival – has meant that, per capita, Fanø now ranks

among the top ten Danish councils that invest money in cul-

tural events. Claus Winther, manager of the brewery Fanø

NEXT WEEK: ÆRØ

Culture, nature and seclusion

Fanø

u

Page 7: Summer in Denmark | July 20-26

7

Island hopping | Fanø Summer in Denmark: 20-26 July 2012

Bryghus, believes the quality and variety of the island’s

produce is also playing a big part in increasing the island’s

appeal:

“The brewery is a good example of something that thrives

here; we have a fantastic butcher, we have Fanø smoked

salmon and we have lots of good artists.”

One of Fanø’s newer personalities is Winther’s colleague,

American brewer Ryan Witter-Merithew; he moved to the

island three years ago to help Winther re-open the micro-

brewery. Although he was easily recognisable at first for his

long, red beard, Witter-Merithew didn’t expect to become a

well-known face in the community.

“I would say that there are a lot of people who know me on

Fanø but who I do not know myself,” he says. “I do get no-

ticed a fair bit on the island, which is strange for me because

I’m not used to that.”

Best of both worlds?The island’s residents have decided not to increase tourist

traffic by building a bridge or causeway to the mainland, as

neighbouring island Rømø has done. Witter-Merithew recog-

nises that it is a modern-day challenge for Fanø to promote

the island’s specialities while preserving its peaceful atmos-

phere and natural landscape, which is now widely protected

as part of the Wadden Sea National Park.

“The people who live here and generate their living on the

island – such as me and the people I work with – are always

interested in ways we can build Fanø as a tourist destination.

But the people who live here and don’t earn any money from

the island aren’t as interested in that stuff because they like

the fact that Fanø is a secluded place where they can just

enjoy themselves,” he says.

While Fanø continues to offer a vibrant combination of cul-

ture, nature and seclusion, there’s certainly no reason why

visitors can’t enjoy the best of both worlds.

Stay

Even though summer is the most popular time

to visit Fanø, it’s possible to stay in one of the

island’s summerhouses, hotels, B&Bs, inns – and

even at its campsites – all year round. There

are 2,500 summerhouses available for rent, and

around half of these can be booked online. As a

cosy compromise between the more traditional

summerhouse and the all-weather camping ex-

perience, quaint cottages with kitchen facilities

and electric heating are also offered at Camping

Klitten, one of Fanø’s seven campsites, located in

Sønderho. Those looking to pamper themselves

with a more luxurious getaway can retreat to

Kellers Badehotel or the historical Sønderho Kro.

OURPICK!

Eat

Whether you decide to dine out, entertain family and friends at

your summerhouse or bring a bag of delicacies back across the

sea, there is something for the gourmet or gourmand on Fanø.

Sønderho Kro, Restaurant Ambassaden and Sylvesters offer

stylish set menus featuring local produce, and Nana’s Stue and

Fajancen in Sønderho combine traditionally-inspired fare with

a taste of history in their café/restaurant galleries. There are

also plenty of family-friendly options, like Nørby Kro and Hans

& Grethe Creperie. Fanø’s culinary specialities have become a

brand in themselves, and you’re likely to come across ‘the origi-

nal’ Fanø skinke (cured ham) or other products from Nordby’s

gourmet butcher on restaurant menus in Copenhagen. Bakskuld

(salted, smoked dab) is a southern Jutland delicacy that has its

roots in Fanø – it is a must-try for adventurous seafood lovers.

OURPICK!

Sønderho Kro. Founded in 1722, the inn is one of Den-

mark’s historical treasures and showcases local speci-

alities, including its own home-smoked fish and meats

(sonderhokro.dk/english).

Summerhouse. Why not go for the authen-

tic Danish summer holiday experience and

rent your own summerhouse by the sea?

It’s a versatile option for families with chil-

dren, groups of friends or couples.

Getting thereThe Fanø ferry (FanøFærgen) departs from the

Port of Esbjerg (Esbjerg Havn) every 20 min-

utes between 9:00 and 20:00 daily in the sum-

mertime. The crossing takes 12 minutes. More

timetable information and ticket prices can be

found at faergen.com.

Fanø’s outdoor activities are plentiful in the summertime. There’s lots for children to do,

whether it’s swimming, mini-golfing, playing ‘nature detective’ or joining in the fun at Pæle-

bjerget’s forest playground. The more adventurous kids and adults can try blokarting –

sand sailing – or kayaking along the Wadden Sea. Or you can simply take a leisurely bike

ride or walk through the picturesque sand dune meadows, or even explore the landscape

on horseback. Golfers can try out Fanø’s 18-hole Golf Links, and fishing enthusiasts can try

their luck at the beach in Sønderho or the fishing lake in Nordby – but you’ll need to pay a

fee before you can cast your line into the water. The island’s cultural days, street-theatre

performances, storytelling and folk-music festivals bring the main towns to life during July

and August, and weekly classical-music and guitar concerts run until late August. You will

need to wait until June 2013 to see the skies burst into full colour at the Fanø International

Kite Fliers Meeting, but a junior version from August 1-5 this year invites families to bring

their own kites to the beach in Rindby or join in kite-making workshops.

OURPICK!

Seal safari. From late spring, junior and senior ‘nature detectives’ should keep an eye out for

seals on the sandbanks by Nordby Havn, or you can take a guided boat or walking tour to

Grådyb or Galgerevet. Learn more at færgen.com, in the events section of the website.

Do

u

Page 8: Summer in Denmark | July 20-26

Summer in Denmark: 20-26 July 2012

8

Regional | Southern Jutland

Southern JutlandDuring your visit to southern Jutland, don’t be con-fused if someone says ‘goodbye’ using the same word that he greets you with. In the local dialect, ‘mojn’ means both – and the locals will be delighted to hear you give it a try. The entire region is a charming mix of friendly people, attractions, beaches, great places to eat and culture. Enjoy Danish history all the way from the Viking era up to the war of 1864, which saw the loss of significant Danish territory. This is also the area to visit if you are looking to enjoy some relaxed beaches. Both the east and west coasts provide many options. Looking to get out and explore nature? Head all the way down south to the island of Als where two large forests are situated, or head west to the Wad-den Sea, an intertidal zone. Want to satisfy your need for thrills? Be sure to check out the roller-coasters at Legoland or Sommerland Syd. No matter how you choose to enjoy your holiday, southern Jutland is the place to make it a memorable one.

At the crossroads of history, a great place to unwindBordering Germany, southern Jutland offers great beaches and an up-close look at Denmark’s past

By Desirae Rasmussen

IT IS no surprise that the southern Jutland region is the roy-

als’ destination of choice for the summer holidays. Being

so close to the mainland of Europe means stable warm

weather during the summer months: it is never too hot and

rarely cold or wet. This makes the region ideal for summer

days spent outside enjoying the local natural areas, be it for-

ests on the island of Als or beaches on the west coast.

Speaking of beaches, southern Denmark is the place to go

if you are looking for a holiday that involves a lot of beach

time. On the west coast, the soft-sanded beaches of Blåvand

offer plenty of space and the chance to do some windsurfing.

To the east lies the Flensburg Fjord, where the calm waters

are perfect for the entire family to go swimming. And be sure

to check out Kægnæs on Als, where some of the region’s best

beaches are located.

But the area is about more than just good weather and

great beaches. It is also filled with culture and history, which

changes the further south you travel. Starting in the north

near Jelling, you can experience the roots of Danish history

with Europe’s finest Viking-Age monuments and a UNESCO

World Heritage Site. Moving south, the history is not as old

and the culture becomes more flavoured by German influ-

ences. But don’t assume that this makes the region any less

Danish. Important parts of Danish history happened here, in-

cluding the signing of a peace treaty with Germany following

the Battle of Dybbøl. To learn more about this and the other

wars that took place in the region, be sure to visit the town of

Sønderborg, where there are numerous historical attractions.

No trip to southern Jutland would be complete without a

trip across the border to do some shopping – prices in Ger-

many are cheaper. Stock up on beer, soda and sweets, but

make sure to devote an entire afternoon because the shops

are very busy at this time of year. Want to avoid the long

lines? Plan a day-trip to the German city of Flensburg, take

in some local sights and shop at one of the larger shopping

centres in the evening on your way home.

Looking for a family-friendly holiday? This is easy in south-

ern Jutland. Located on the island of Als, Danfoss Universe

is a science centre that is sure to fascinate the entire family.

Looking for a theme park? Check out Sommerland Syd in

Tinglev. And don’t forget Legoland in Billund, which is sure

to keep everyone entertained on a warm summer day. Both

Sommerland Syd and Legoland also have water parks should

you tire of the rides and want to beat the heat.

No matter how you decide to spend your holiday in southern

Jutland, be sure to master the word ‘mojn’, which means both

‘hello’ and ‘goodbye’ in the local dialect.

SouthernJutland

NEXT WEEK: FUNEN

Page 9: Summer in Denmark | July 20-26

StayChoosing a place to stay

in southern Jutland can be

difficult because there are

so many options. On the east

coast, Gl. Ålbo is a great choice.

The area offers campsites, cabins and holi-

day homes. You also have some wonderful

opportunities for fun there, including fishing,

boating and diving. Looking for something on

the west coast? Hotel Kommandørgården on

Rømø is a nice place – it offers many differ-

ent holiday packages that include activities

like golfing and horseback riding. Want to

be close to everything? Choose to stay at a

summerhouse at Lalandia Billund, right in the

heart of the region.

Summer in Denmark: 20-26 July 2012

9

Regional | Southern Jutland

DoDon’t be fooled by the region’s calm outward appearance – there’s plenty to ex-

plore in southern Jutland. The visitors’ centre at Battlefield Centre Dybbøl Banke

is well worth a visit, and throughout the summer, the region has a number of

Ringriding Festivals, which look like jousting, but actually involve an individual rid-

er trying to stick a pointy pole into increasingly smaller rings at a galloping speed.

For a few thrills of your own, head over to one of the region’s two amusement

parks or Sommerland Syd in Tinglev. Looking to spend the day on the beach?

Head west to Rømø, where you can drive right out onto the beach to reach the

water, and where you can also enjoy the sight of different kites being flown; many

beaches offer kite rentals.

OURPICK!

OURPICK!

EatSouthern Jutland is full of great places to eat with a total of eight

restaurants that have earned Gastronomy Danmarks Quality Mark.

In the town of Ribe, you’ll find the charming Kolvig Restaurant &

Café, which has a terrace overlooking a river. If you’re looking for

a fine-dining experience, head south and eat at either Schacken-

borg Slotskro or Hotel Fakkelgaarden. Perhaps you’re hungering

for something a little more international. If so, be sure to stop in

Sønderborg and book a table at Restaurant Dejengis Khan Mongo-

lian Barbecue. After dinner, take a walk along the pedestrian street

and get dessert at one of the ice cream or chocolate shops.

OURPICK!

The beaches on Rømø stretch as far as the eye can see, and no matter which way you look there’s something going on, be it kite flying, land sailing or surfing. Going for a swim? Be sure to drive all the way out on the sand until you see water to avoid a long walk (read more: romo.dk).

Restaurant Dejengis Khan Mongolian Barbecue. It’s an all-you-can-eat buffet with two different food options, and the prices are reasonable. The build-your-own-stir-fry op-tion is a great choice (St. Rådhusgade 13, Sønderborg).

Lalandia Billund. Renting a summerhouse here also grants you free entrance to the Aqua-dome, Monky Tonky Land and vari-ous children’s entertainment. Choose to cook your own dinners, but be sure to check out one of the local restaurants while you’re there (more information available at lalandia.dk).

NEXT WEEK: FUNEN

Page 10: Summer in Denmark | July 20-26

ASIAN STREET PARTY SATURDAY 28 JULY FROM 11-22 AT PUMPEHUSET Dragon Dance // Kickboxing // Vietnamese street kitchen // Magician // Ping-Pong // Henna Tattoos // DJ Sets // Learn to make spring rolls with Anh Lê // Live Music // After Party // Asian surprises & much more... // Free admission //

FIND THE EVENT “ASIAN STREET PARTY” ON FACEBOOK AND READ MORE ABOUT IT. ASIAN STREET PARTY ARRANGED BY PUMPEHUSET, LÊLÊ STREET KITCHEN & TIGER BEER