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MyTailor by Hemrajani Brothers custom tailored clothing & shirtingWhile many may claim to be custom tailors, few have actually earned this distinction. Master Tailor Joe Hemrajani is heir to one of the premier custom tailoring traditions that began 40 years ago in a famous Hong Kong clothier.
On The Fly clothing & accessoriesOn The Fly is committed to outfitting the modern gentleman with solutions that acknowledge discerning tastes and busy schedules.
Taylor Stitchdenim, clothing & accessoriesTaylor Stitch is an independent outfitter that designs and crafts modern staples in San Francisco. It is our passion to create rugged and refined pieces for people like you.
Yuketenfootwear, luggage & accessoriesSince 1985, designer Yuki Matsuda has paid homage to the American crafts and traditions by treasure hunting for outstanding examples of footwear and luggage.
Louis Waltoncustom ties & accessoriesLouis Walton makes handmade men’s accessories out of a small shop in San Francisco. Each piece is made individually with a focus on quality and craftsmanship.
Goorin Bros.hatsIn 1895, master craftsman Cassel Goorin sold his first hat off a horse cart in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. Cassel’s sons, the Goorin Brothers, continued the tradition of hat making when they moved the family business to San Francisco in 1949.
A Suitable Wardrobeclothing & accessoriesA Suitable Wardrobe is a San Francisco Bay area-based publisher and online retailer of classic men’s clothing and accessories aimed at men who love clothes.
Epaulet New Yorkclothing, footwear & accessoriesEpaulet is a clothing boutique and clothing brand in Brooklyn, New York, specializing in Epaulet & EP’s InHouse Brands, Special Edition and Collaborative Products, and with a focus on value and knowledge.
Jack/Knife denimCustom jeans from a workshop in the heart of SOMA. Each pair of jeans cut and sewn with the specific customer, their needs and lifestyle, in mind.
Kirby Allison’s Hanger Projectmaintenance & accessoriesThrough collaboration with renowned tailors, dandies, and men of style, Kirby Allison has created the world’s first collection of luxury wooden hangers.
Leather Soulfootwear & accessoriesLeather Soul strives to provide a personal touch and create relationships with their clientele. They are not your typical shoe store, they are shoe connoisseurs first and foremost.
SetteneckwearSette Neckwear’s vision is to make the finest in neckwear by employing a time honored seven-fold process and nearly a full square meter of the highest quality Italian silk.
the dubiously honored
Fokcage fighter
Kevindesigner extraordinaire
Marktaekwondo expert
Gusyour best friend
Justinfashion model
Made possible by the team at Huddler.
Styleforum is a Huddler Community.
©2012, Huddler, Inc.
Tony Gloriosocreative director
Stephanie Colemansales & marketing
Eric Shawpartnerships
When we decided to do a Styleforum buying guide for
Styleforum’s 10th Anniversary, I knew that we were going
to feature a cross section of our members, who come from
all walks of life. Kevin, (the first guy featured) and Gus, are
the unofficial, official “Party planning” committee, and I’ve
shamelessly taken advantage of Kevin’s terrific graphic design
skills for the invite (otherwise, you may have gotten more
Spartan red) and Gus’ ability to connect with all types of people.
Mark is one of our tireless moderators, and a Taekwando
expert, which may or may not come in handy at times. Justin is
the legendary “Saucemaster”, a member who was known for his
candid shots, nearly always wearing sunglasses, and who grew
up with the forum, same as did I. A decade is a long time, but
it’s really just the beginning. I hope that you will all keep posting
and reading along with me and Jeremy (the mysterious j), to see
what the next decade brings.
Cheers,
Fok LA Guy, Styleforum
White Mountaineering Embroidered Chukkas
$768.00Bodega [bdgastore.com)
Alden CordovanBoots
360 GBPepauletshop.com
Alfred Sargent Hannover Boots
360 GBPafinepairofshoes.com
No.03
Sh
oe
S
ShoeS
Alfred Sargent Lombard Boots
350 GBPafinepairofshoes.com
No.05
Sh
oe
S
No.04
Carmina Carver Chelsea Boots
$595 epauletshop.com
Yuketen OliveOxfords yuketen.com
Girling&Gaziano Grant Wholecut
610 GBPbespoke-england.co.uk
Girling&Gaziano Oakham Double Monk Strap
615 GBPbespoke-england.co.uk
LUGGAGe &BAGS
Mismo Canvas Backpacks
$550tresbienshop.netbarneys.com
I N T H E B A C K G R O U N D
If this is roughing it, you’re not doing too badly—Yuketen Vintage English bag in natural and Mailman bag in peanutwww.yuketen.com
Mismo MSExplorer
$870tresbienshop.net
Filson Leather Briefcase
$795cranescountrystore.com
This is what backpacks will be like in the future.
The duffle: Good weekend bag, and doubles as a pillow when your flight is delayed.
The soft leather brief is eminently business ready, but less Men in Black than hard cases.
GlobetrotterCarry-on Luggagebespoke-england.co.uk
Price upon Request
Should you be lucky enough to fly first class.
White MountaineeringCross Body Bagswhitemountaineering.com
Urban ArmyMen.
Mismo Workbag
$530tresbienshop.net
Jeanshop Briefcase
$700worldjeanshop.com(Also shown, Jeanshop belts for $155 each)
Yuketen Canoe Backpack
215 GBP& Deerskin Tote
endclothing.co.ukyuketen.com
You could rough it.
LOOKBOOKthe
When Styleforum was created in 2002, the “premium denim” phenomenon that shaped the contemporary menswear scene in North America was well underway, but the only unwashed, “raw” jeans readily accessible in the US were from Helmut Lang and APC (with the occasional Evisu seen here and there.) Helmut Lang jeans were sold only at high end boutiques like Barneys. APC was only just starting to expand beyond mail order. There were two cuts of Helmut Langs available – straight leg, and bootcut, which, looking through the spectrum of 2002, both seemed pretty narrow through the leg. There were 2 cuts of APCs, the “standard”, which had a tapered, narrow, leg, and the “Anglaise”, my cut of choice, which was roomier in the leg, slouchier in the seat, and tapered to the ankle.
Not long after Styleforum started, two different trends started to come on super
strong—reproductions and interpretations of historical jeans, mostly from Japan, and Hedi Slimane’s super slim silhouette for Dior Homme, which brought along with it very popular, raw, skinny, superlong jeans. Both trends thought they had a lot of staying power. Of course, the trends converged (both online and offline), sometimes to comic effect, and of course, they diverged. Today, you can buy raw denim at pretty much any boutique, and nearly every brand offers at least one model in rigid, unwashed denim. Helmut Lang came to New York, went back to Paris, and then quit his own brand. APC now has widespread distribution, and is a mainstay at many better boutiques. While $250+ jeans are still popular among diehard denimheads, and stores like Self Edge cater to them, more moderately priced jeans have become much more common, and much more popular, in the past few years.
Premium Denim
No.10
Styleforum’sC H O I C E D E N I M(left to right)
Jean Shop washed and distressed jeans, Jean shop dark distressed jeans, Jean Shop raw denim jeans, starting at $295 (worldjeanshop.com and mrporter.com)
Sugarcane “Okinawa” jeans, $330 and Ironheart 21 ounce Model 634 jeans, $425 (selfedge.com)
deniM
“Sydney Mamane, a former custom jeans maker and tailor, and now proprietor of his eponymous store in Toronto, “Sydneys”, has come pretty much full circle with his United Stock Dry Goods denim line. And like APC and Helmut Lang’s pioneering jeans, he offers 2 cuts, straightleg, and a narrow leg, in mid-weight Japanese selvedge denim.
United Stock Dry Goods jeans$140 CAD at uncleotis.com
S.N.S. Herning Version Cardigan $195 CAD at fourhorsemen.ca
Alfred Sargent Boots360 GBP at afinepairofshoes.com and shoehealer.co.uk
Yuketen Canoe Backpack215 GBP inquire at yuketen.com
Mismo belt$165 at mismo.dk and barneys.com
No.13
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No.12
You see me in a suit in the summer, and it is midnight blue, or charcoal, and it’s probably because I have to give a presentation or am going to a wedding. Every summer, GQ, Esquire, and every blog and tumblr, tries to sell me on the merits of the summer suit, and I can see the appeal, but it’s just not for me.
Mark, on the other hand, loves summer. He also lives in San Francisco, where summer, if not easy to love, is at least harder to hate. Mark Twain was also wrong. San Francisco is beautiful in the summer. So, I put him in a tan suit that says that he is clearly going somewhere fun. A tan suit in tropical wool with a colorful Drake’s pocket square - that’s what you wear to dinner in some Italian villa, or on a rooftop in Shanghai, or something appropriately glamorous.
The scarf, I didn’t add that. I think that Gus did that, and I think that the rationale was the it might be useful for the plane trip, since it gets
chilly in the First Class section, though, really, he might reconsider wearing socks under his double monks, because I’m pretty sure that TSA doesn’t care where you are going – you’re going to take off your shoes. Of course, if anyone made me check that Globetrotter luggage, I might have to cancel my flight.
Isaia Suit and Shirt isaia.it
Globetrotter LuggageRequest Pricing at bespoke-england.com
Salinger Double Monk Calfskin, for Epaulet$545 at epauletshop.com
Belt by Mismo$165 at mismo.dk
Cotton Cashmere Paisley Scarf225 GBP at drakes-london.com
No.15
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Summer Suits
No.14
Put your best foot forward.
The Hanger Project shoe care travelling case and traveling bone shoehorn.
Available at hangerproject.comTrAVeL
On the forum, every so often, people ask “what do I wear on the plane?” Here is the answer: Black leather biker jacket, white shirt, jeans, good sneakers. It happens to be the perfect travel uniform. The jacket is durable, which means that if it gets shoved into the overhead compartment, or used as a blanket, and if you spill coffee on it, or curry, you wipe it off, and that’s that. It also happens to look good pretty much anywhere in the world. Just make sure that the leather jacket fits well, and is made of high quality leather.
Justin is one of those guys who just looks good in clothes, but this Jean Shop moto (which he threatened to steal, several times,) really makes this outfit. I always wear indigo jeans, but hey, the guys at Isaia were kind enough to send us these brighter blue jeans, and since they are this summer’s color, we thought it rude to not use them. Oh, and always carry a change of clothes in your carryon. It will save a 24 hour delay from being unbearable.
Jeanshop Leather Jacket$2,500 at worldjeanshop.com or mrporter.com
Wings+Horns Shirt$195 at blackbirdballard.com
Wings+Horns Sneakers$420 at shopacrimony.com
Isaia Jeans~$395 inquire at isaia.it
Mismo Workbag$530 at tresbienshop.com or mismo.dk
Kawatako Belt$195 at selfedge.com
No.19
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Traveling
No.18
I’m not a summer guy. The sun dries out my eyes, and no matter how often designers try to sell you on the beauty of the half lined jacket, the great textures of linens, I usually end up in a tee, with jeans, and sneakers, with only really a bracelet or two and a belt to really breakup the monotony. And I am only going to buy so much pastel. Men’s magazines might try to persuade you otherwise in their summer editions, but I think that Giorgio Armani was right when he said that the most important part of a man’s wardrobe was the jacket.
The navy blue sportscoat in tropical wool is a godsend, if you are lucky enough to be in some mountain chalet or on the beach, where it gets cool in the evenings, and a jacket is needed. Some people, myself included, are usually not big on sportsjackets over tees, worn with jeans, etc… But I make an exception for summer. The one good thing about summer is that everyone except for the most rulebound, and those people are no fun, are going to cut you some slack.
Come fall, people are going to expect you in serious menswear.
This jacket is by AR, the basic line from Mr. Yoda of Aloharag, originally based in Honolulu, but now with a New York outpost. I figure that a guy who lives in Hawaii is pretty well qualified to design clothes for summer.
AR Blazer and Sweater$670 and $360 at www.aloharag.com
White Mountaineering Cropped PantsRequest Pricing at whitemountaineering.com
Alfred Sargent Lombard Boots345 GBP at shoehealer.co.uk or afinepairofshoes.co.uk
Yuketen Vintage English Bag in NaturalRequest Pricing at yuketen.com
No.21
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Blue Sportcoats
No.20
No.23
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“This way, you won’t get moths.”
So, in case you missed the memo, the next trend to hit is the technical wear inspired clothing. At Pitti Uomo in January, Herno and Goretex had a cool display inside a plastic dome, where they showed off Goretex technology like no one had ever seen it before (lol). They also would not allow any photographs, because people might steal the revolutionary idea of black, military inspired jackets, in technical fabrics (my guess is that neither Herno nor Goretex are advertising in this lookbook, so I feel safe writing that.) My thought is that this trend will not have the longevity of the heritage trend, but at least I won’t have to hear the words “authentic” and “artisanal” as often.
Snark aside, it’s been a while (as in, since I was in college, in the 90s), since performance clothing has gotten a makeover. In Seattle, your “style” tribe can be seen in whether you choose to wear North Face (college, does jello shots, belongs to a fraternity) or Patagonia (older, drives a hybrid, donates to WWF). Now, you can choose the tribe
that says “I read menswear blogs and go to Pitti”, so you may as well get some better looking gear than your North Face. Isaora is designed by a guy who actually does outdoor winter sports, and I really like his mixing of textures, layering, and use of subtle, off primary colors.
Isaora Jacket$489 at isaora.com
AR Parachute Pants$450 at aloharag.com
White Mountaineering Shoes and BagRequest Pricing at whitemountaineering.com
Wings+Horns Red Static$79 at fourhorsemen.ca
No.25
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The Great Outdoors
No.24
I think that I threw every #menswear trend in the past decade at a Mark here. It’s a good thing that he is a good looking, fit guy. Not too many guys can pull off a Liberty print shirt with a seersucker shawl collar fisherman’s jacket with a slim chinos (look ma, as close to no break as Americans get!) and brogue boots.
Oh, and of course, the new messenger bag is the backpack.
Epaulet Liberty Print Shirt $175 at epauletshop.com
Epaulet Walt Moleskin Trousers$165 at epauletshop.com
Oliver Spencer JacketInquire at oliverspencer.co.uk
Alfred Sargent Lombard Boots350 GBP alfredsargent.com
Mismo Belt $165 at barneys.com or mismo.dk
Yuketen Canoe Backpack215 GBP inquire at yuketen.com
No.27
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The Whole Closet
No.26
deTAiLS
Cotton Cashmere Paisley Scarf225 GBP
Linen Check Scarf135 GBP
Cotton and Silk Vintage Medallion Scarf 50 GBP
Drakes Pocket Squares~50 GBP each
drakes-london.com
No.29
Sc
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& S
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S C A R V E S & S Q U A R E S
No.30
Even in the fairly conservative world of tailored clothing, trends come and go. Ticket pockets, hacking pockets, spalla camicia, chisel toes, wholecuts, sevenfold ties, extremely high gorges, peak lapelled everything, chisel toed shoes, and round toed shoes have all had their day in the Styleforum sun.
Sometimes, being dressed by the Internet is not such a bad thing, particularly when a lot of concurrent trends all work well together. A double-breasted, peaked lapel windowpane suit and shirt by Isaia Napoli, a Drakes woven herringbone tie, Carmina double monks (dub monks), Globetrotter luggage, Jeanshop briefcase, and Bresciani socks. You could travel worse.
Isaia Suit and Shirtisaia.it
Drakes London Silk and Linen Tie95 GBP at drakeslondon.com
Bresciani Socksbresciani.it
Globetrotter LuggageRequest pricing at bespoke-england.com
Jean Shop Briefcase $700 at worldjeanshop.com
Tailored
No.31
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Gus looks like someone who would be photographed by a streetblogger. He’d probably be photographed reading in the racks outside a bookstore, or drinking an afternoon espresso, or doing something else equally urbane.
More than one streetblogger has made an appearance on Styleforum. The most prolific, of course, was The Sartorialist, who, early in his career, was often posting and commenting on Styleforum, and actually featured one of our founding members twice. I’m not sure whether he was aware he did that, but the pictures are still there, as far as I know. I think that there has been a fundamental shift in the symbiotic and often uneasy relationship between “fashion” and “street”.
In 2002, we were really on the outside, looking in. In 2012, I feel that forums, blogs, tumblrs, and other forms of social media are becoming an integral part of the dialogue between the creators and the consumers.
Oliver Spencer Jacketoliverspencer.co.uk
Wings+Horns Reversible Shirt$295 at shopacrimony
Epaulet Tartan Trousers$215 and epauletshop.com
Epaulet Alden Cordovan Boots$680 epauletshop.com
Mismo MS Explorer Bagmismo.dk
Paparazzi
No.32 No.33
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SockS &TieS
Real JapanBlues $45
Real JapanBlues $45
Sunny Sports $45
No.35
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C A S U A L S O C K S
Bresciani $45asuitablewardrobe..com
D R E S S S O C K S
(from left) Isaia, Isaia, Isaia, Drakes, Drakes, Drakes, Isaiaasuitablewardrobe..com
S U M M E R T I E S
No.34
Four Horsemen & Yuketen Stitched Belts $124assemblynewyork.com
C A S U A L B E L T S
Jeanshop Canvas Belts $65worldjeanshop.com
C A N V A S B E L T S
Gaziano Girling 85 GBP(also pictured: Sutor Mantellasi & Ralph Lauren Dress Belts)
bespoke-england.co.uk
D R E S S B E L T S
Mismo $165mismo.dkbarneys.com
G O A N Y W H E R E B E L T S
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