SeptemberSeptember20102010

TheInquirer

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fall fashionllifestyleifestyle •• home&designhome&design

foodfood •• traveltravel

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Our covermodel, PaigeChin, 21, ofUniversity City,attends theUniversity ofPennsylvaniapart-time,working on abachelor’sdegree in arthistory. Previously,she studied atStudioIncamminati, aPhiladelphiadrawing andpainting atelierfounded byNelson Shanks,the famed portraitpainter of BillClinton, PopeJohn Paul II, andPrincess Diana, toname a few.Paige currentlyaccepts portraitcommissions andhopes to continuepursuing hercareer in art, aswell asmodeling.A regular onQVC,shemodels forclients such asJessica Simpsonand IsaacMizrahi.She also hasmodeled forMichael Kors,Comcast,NeimanMarcus,and UrbanOutfitters.

Paige’s jacket,Charles Chang-Lima, $1,070, atJoan Shepp; skirt,Charles Chang-Lima, $518, atJoan Shepp;earrings, smallhoopwith polka-dot agate, $25, atTyphaney B.Jewelry; leopard-print bagwith redpiping, theGracebyMZWallace,$425, at PileggiBoutique.

On thecover:Photography:Michael Bryant.

PaigeChin(Reinhardagency) wearslayered ruffle vest,Rebecca Taylor,$435, at Per LeiBoutique; long-sleeve T-shirt,Three Dots, $82,at Per Lei;earrings,$24,000, at J.M.Lichterman&Co.;gray Tahitian pearlnecklace onleather cord,$2,500, at J.M.Lichterman&Co.;floral ring, OceanSuitry, $275, atPer Lei.

fashion6 A surgeon’sstyleBy Elizabeth WellingtonHow Emily Pollard’s closetoperates.

10 A little morefunkificationBy Elizabeth WellingtonLast year’s fashion formsget fired up with colorand fun.

lifestyle9 A coachtackles carrestorationBy Art CareyDick Vermeil, a mechanic’sson, took it on as a tributeto his dad.

home & design15 Distillingdesign frompersonalityBy Paul JablowMichael Herold takes hiscues from a client’spersonal style.

food16 Eaterieswith elanBy Craig LaBanFor good tastes, in cityand suburbs.

18Accomplishedand comfortableBy Rick NicholsChef Patrick Feurycrafts Asian fusionat Berwyn’s Nectar.

travel20 FashionfriendlyBy AmyLaughinghouseIn London,Washington, andParis, runwayevents bid youwelcome.

23 ForeignflairBy Howard ShapiroInternational tailors area fitting choice.

table of contents 10

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ISeptember 2010

The InquirerThe art ofliving instyle

The IStaffEDITOR:Cathy Rubin

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS:Maureen Fitzgerald, FoodDeirdreM. Childress, Home&DesignBill Reed, Travel

DESIGNER: Sue Syrnick

COPY CHIEF: BobCaughron

PRODUCTION EDITOR: JohnGayusky

PRODUCTION MANAGER:DonnaM. Yannessa

Phone: 215-854-4330 Fax: 215-854-4795E-mail: imagazine@phillynews.comMail: Imagazine,Box 8263, Philadelphia 19101

We’re celebrating fall — and that means everything fromthe hottest runway getaways here and abroad, to the bestrestaurants for people-watching (or being watched), toinspired design that accentuates personal style.And whatbetter backdrop for our fall fashion spread than the beautifulcampus of Bryn Mawr College, where we feature all thelayered looks to reflect your full lifestyle.Welcome back from vacation.

Sandra M. ClarkAssistant Managing Editor,Arts & Features

PUBLISHER: Brian P. Tierney

VICE PRESIDENT, NATIONAL ADVERTISING: HowardGriffin

INTEGRATED SALES DEVELOPMENT EXECUTIVE: Jonett Conner

BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT DIRECTOR: Jim Tierney

Advertising: HowardGriffin, 215-575-6470, hgriffin@phillynews.com

4 • S E P T EMBER 2 0 1 0

By Elizabeth WellingtonINQUIRER FASHION WRITER

Photography by Michael BryantSTAFF PHOTOGRAPHER

Emily Pollard is a plastic surgeonwho doesn’t believe in scrubsoutside of the operating room.“It’s disrespectful to my

patients,” said the fiftysomethingArdmore doc with the modest closet space —not including her shoe niche and her specialplace for bags — that she’s packed with oodlesof style.Her philosophy is simple: Dresses are best in

muted prints. Suits should be bold solids. Andthere is no point in mixing more than onetexture or print within an outfit. Leave that tothe style professionals, she said.Still, she’s adventurous in her own way.

Accessories are key — beaded necklaces hangneatly on jewelry holders. And belts areimportant parts of her wardrobe, too. Pollard’sbest fashion habit? Eschewing boring businesssuits and opting for fiery shades like orange.“I break the mold,” she said. “Why should I

look like everyone else?”

Do clothes make the woman, or does thewoman make the clothes?I think the woman makes the clothes. If it’s agreat outfit that complements your body, itdoesn’t matter of it’s Target, T.J. Maxx, orPiazza Sempione.

What are three words that define yourpersonal style?Comfortable, flattering, and interesting.

How do you make fashion choices?I’m not a slave to name brands. I look for thingsthat make me feel good. I like a balance of colorand design. ... I like to look complete. I amcomfortable in solid bottoms and printed topswith belts. It makes me feel put together.

What are you looking forward to this fall?I like the plums that are out this fall. I saw agreat oversized Marc Jacobs bag, and I’ve beenthinking a lot about a pair of plum platform,peep-toed pumps. I think that would look greatwith an opaque leg with a shorter black skirt.

Favorite labels?Piazza Sempione. St. John, Gucci, Fendi. DianeVon Furstenberg.

continued on page 8

Asurgeon’sstyle“I break the mold,” says EmilyPollard of Ardmore.

hung up

Emily Pollard likes vividcolors and organizes hercloset by the hues of therainbow. “If you have to bedressed and at the hospital at7:15 a.m., picking clothes islike Garanimals. This is easyand fashionable,” she explains.Accessories, such as belts, arean important part of herwardrobe.

6 • S E P T EMBER 2 0 1 0

RETAIL EVENTSPHASHIONPHEST

NICOLEMILLERsouth moon underbridals by danielle10DAYSOFfashion& styleLagos FBHAGENCYKIMBERLY BOUTIQUEBrooks BrothersTRUNKSHOWSthe shops piazza at schmidtsRichard Nicholas Hair StudioFilm Screenings&PanelDiscussionsrittenhouse rowCENTERCITYMountAiryOLD CITYDISTRICTPASSYUNK northern libertiesCITY OF STYLE

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Shoes and bags have their special places. Emily Pollard says she is “not a slave to name brands,” but she has her favorites.

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Shoes?Ferragamo. Kenneth Cole.

Oldest thing in your closet?This [cream-colored] Episode suit.Episode was a private-label boutiquethat was popular in the 1990s. WhenI first got into medicine, I wasn’tadventurous with fashion. I dressedmore how people wanted me to dressso I had this simple suit. … Nowafter practicing for 18 years, I wearwhat I feel good in. Not whatsomeone else wants to see me in.

What is your closet philosophy?I’m a ROYGBIV girl. Meaning Iorganize my clothes in the rainbow:red, orange, yellow, green, blue,indigo, violet.

Why did you start doing that?Out of necessity. If you have to bedressed and at the hospital at 7:15a.m., picking clothes is likeGaranimals. This is easy andfashionable. … And it helps since Idon’t like greeting my patients inscrubs. They deserve to see me atmy best. Pulled together andprofessional. I

Contact fashion writer ElizabethWellington at 215-854-2704 orewellington@phillynews.com.

continued from page 6

8 • S E P T EMBER 2 0 1 0

Dick Vermeil, the former Eaglescoach who won a Super Bowl withthe St. Louis Rams, is justlyfamous for his football skills. Whatfew people know is that he’s also a

journeyman auto mechanic.He was trained by the best — his father, Louis

Vermeil, who operated a backyard garage in theNapa Valley town of Calistoga, where Dick Vermeilgrew up. There, the younger Vermeil began workingin the garage in his early teens, dismantling thingsand cleaning parts. He graduated to tune-ups andbrake jobs, then rebuilding engines andtransmissions. When he was a high school footballcoach, he was a mechanic during the summer. Ingraduate school, he worked nights and weekends ata service station.Those skills were essential to his recent labor of

love — restoring his father’s race car.“I did it out of respect for my dad,” says Vermeil,

73, who lives in East Fallowfield, Chester County,“because I know how much he loved it.”Louis Vermeil had a prodigious work ethic. He

offered 24-hour towing and labored late into the nightso regularly that neighbors nicknamed his shop theOwl Garage.By day, Louis Vermeil repaired the cars of customers.

At night, he turned to his passion: perfecting race cars.The race cars he fancied were sprint cars, typically

backyard-built and designed to be raced on dirt tracks,such as the half-mile Calistoga Speedway.Louis Vermeil owned several race cars, but his first

serious one, and favorite, was old No. 7, a.k.a. “BlackBeauty,” a non-wing, open-cockpit sprint race carbuilt in 1926.Louis Vermeil acquired the car in 1937 and began

racing it in earnest after World War II. Too burly tofit into the cockpit, he delegated the driving to Jack

Pacheteau.By the late ’40s and early ’50s, the car was

considered an antique, puny and obsolete comparedwith its competition. Powered by a Model A Fordfour-banger with an overhead valve conversion, itcould achieve a top speed of 90 m.p.h. — “goingdownhill,” Vermeil quips.What it lacked in speed, it supplied in stamina.“There were several cars that were much faster, but

lots of times they didn’t finish,” said Dick Vermeil’sbrother, Stan, 72, who rebuilds vintage engines inCalifornia. “You could always count on No. 7chugging along and being there at the end.”During the racing season, Black Beauty rarely won

outright but often finished second or third in races of25, 50 or 100 laps. In 1950, by placing high manytimes, the car won the American Racing Associationchampionship.Overmatched by cars with big six-cylinder engines

and V8s, No. 7 retired in 1954. In its last race, a500-miler, it finished eighth, winning $875 — thebiggest check Louis Vermeil ever earned on theracetrack.For decades, the car was sheltered in a lean-to next

to the Owl Garage. After Louis Vermeil died in 1985,it was stored by Dick Vermeil’s sister and, later, a

nephew. In February 2007, Vermeil transported itfrom California to his 114-acre ranch.He converted a woodshed into a garage and

mounted his dad’s original “Owl Garage” sign over thedoor. He began taking the car apart, stripping it downcompletely. He used his John Deere tractor (ahousewarming gift from the late Eagles owner LeonardTose) to remove the engine.He collaborated with Dave George of D.L. George

Coachworks of Cochranville. (“They work on a car likeit’s a Rolex watch,” Vermeil says.) Eventually, Georgegave him a spot in the shop.There, the crew tackled the body, straightening and

painting the sheet metal, as well as jobs that required afine machinist’s touch. Vermeil undertook such tasks asreplacing bearings and shock absorbers. He rebuilt theengine and reassembled the car.For nearly two years, the project absorbed much of

Vermeil’s free time (and about $225,000). The result?A gorgeous souvenir and family heirloom.“I know how pleased he would be if he could see it,”

Vermeil says. “I know he would also tease me becausehe would not be so pleased by all the shiny nickel-platedmetal.”Indeed, Black Beauty is now a show car and trailer

queen. In March 2009, No. 7 won first place in itsclass at the prestigious Amelia Island Concoursd’Elegance. Vermeil also has shown the car at theLouie Vermeil Classic, a sprint-car racing extravaganzaat the Calistoga Speedway.In late July, Vermeil shipped the car to the National

Sprint Car Hall of Fame & Museum in Knoxville,Iowa, where Louis Vermeil’s name is enshrined andwhere the car will be displayed for the next 10 months.“Every day was an emotional experience,” Vermeil

says of the restoration process. “I would touchsomething and remember watching my dad make it,the nights working with him in the garage andregrooving tires during race season. It was almost liketalking to him.” I

Contact staff writer Art Carey at 215-854-5606 oracarey@phillynews.com.

By Art Carey INQUIRER STAFF WRITER

Photography by Michael BryantSTAFF PHOTOGRAPHER

Dick Vermeil at the wheel of his father’s 1926 sprint race car, which he helped to rebuild.

Coachtacklescar restorationDick Vermeil, a mechanic’s son, took it onas a tribute to his father, who loved racing.

lifestyle

Detail of a shock absorber on the racer, which is a“three-springer,” featuring a suspension with two leaf springs infront and a transverse leaf spring in the rear.

I The Inquirer • 9

Looking hot inhallowed halls: Denimand leather jacket, RickOwens, $1,233; plaidskirt, Y-3 YohjiYamamoto, $330;long-sleeve black andgray leopard T-shirt, AT2,$94; tights, Wolford, $45,all at Joan Shepp;18-karat white golddiamond pear and rounddiamond earrings,$9,000, at J.M.Lichterman & Co.

10 • S E P T EMBER 2 0 1 0

Last year’s fashion forms get fired up with color and surprise flickers of fun.

A little moreA little morefunkificationfunkification

Allow us to introduce the two of you:Last year’s silhouette? Meet this year’sfunk.When these two characteristics come

together, you get the mash-up look offall 2010 — simple shapes, all glammed up.Chunky belted cardigans remain a must, but they

take a stylish turn with crocheted flowers blooming onthe lapels. Fitted shrunken jackets are still to be pairedwith pencil skirts. But instead of muted neutralshades, think fiery reds, teals, and even mustards.O, happy day. Those somber monotone shades

signifying uncertainty have been replaced with the

sparkling details of optimism. And at the same time,there’s no pressure to spend too much. It’s all aboutmixing oomph with ooh la la and searching for thatbasic signature piece.Thankfully, long, lean looks continue to be in for

bottoms, but this season they have moreembellishments. Look for extra touches like anexposed zipper along a calf, or unexpected shimmeryfabrics on what otherwise would be classic black.“Go bold,” said Ellen `Shepp, co-owner of the Joan

continued on next page

Story and styling by Elizabeth Wellington INQUIRER FASHION WRITER

Photography by Michael Bryant STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER

fashion

Shepp boutique on Walnut Street. “The strengths are in the unusual detail.This makes the silhouettes stronger.”Take last season’s boatnecked sheath dresses in herringbones, shades of gray,

and basic blacks. They were cute, but plain.This year our favorite womenswear designers, from Milly to Nanette Lepore

to Rebecca Taylor, have added tucks, ruffles, zippers, and stitching to thesimplest of dresses, upping their sophistication a notch or two.“We hope these details will make women splurge,” said Candice Caprice,

owner of Per Lei Boutique in Media.Yet you don’t need to dress up to be stylish. A lululemon yoga ensemble

makes a beautiful statement, too. That’s because fashion isn’t about either/oranymore; it’s one big and. These days, our choices are dictated by lifestyle, nottrends.So where to begin? Start by purchasing these two pieces:“Tissue-soft floral print dresses are so cute layered under chunky cardigans,”

said Ann Gitter, owner of Knit Wit. The Center City boutique is home of the

filmy frock a la Ulla Johnson and Alexander Wang.Don’t forget those patterned tights and chunky boots. Closed? Peep-toe?

It’s up to you.With all these options, it was hard for us to feature only one predominant

look. (Although we are partial to layering floral dresses with chunkycardigans, the honest truth is, that’s only part of the fashion story.)So we decided to go to a place where multiple looks, and personalities,

reign: a college campus. Punk partyers hang with prepsters. Casually sportyprofessors nosh with suited-up deans. Serious athletes mingle with theseriously studious. They all meet here, where fashion, rightly so, followslifestyle’s lead. I

Contact fashion writer Elizabeth Wellington at 215-854-2704 orewellington@phillynews.com.

continued from previous page

Getting a yoga groove: Black pant, Groove by lululemon, $98; red jacket, Define bylululemon, $99; Align Ultra mat, $28; all at lululemon athletica. Earrings, large gold drops, $32,at Typhaney B. Jewelry.

Hot for teacher: Navy dress, Rebecca Taylor, $365, at Per Lei Boutique; agate earrings withmatrix small drops, $20; asymmetrical faceted ball necklace with Brazilian stone accent, $65,both at Typhaney B. Jewelry.

12 • S E P T EMBER 2 0 1 0

A party, you say?Magenta dress, Adamby Adam Lippes, $275,Gramercy Boutique;shoes, BCBG, $250, PerLei Boutique; Milliannagold cuff, $240,Gramercy Boutique;Millianna gold necklace,$150, GramercyBoutique.

Check out this book:Dress, Ulla Johnson, $345,at Knit Wit; sweater, PiazzaSempione, $1,150, at KnitWit; tights, Look fromLondon, $45, Joan Shepp;shoes, silver Barron flats,BCBG, $225, at ViVi G;natural leather cordnecklace with Tahitianpearls, $1,100; diamondand South Sea pearlearrings, $12,000, both atJ.M. Lichterman & Co.

CREDITS:Special thanks to Bryn

Mawr College and its stafffor the use of its facilitiesincluding the RhysCarpenter Library andregistered historic landmarkThomas Great Hall. Alsothanks to Mark Barksdalefor pitching in as styleassistant.

Hairstyling courtesy ofKristina McCue, andmakeup courtesy of BeccaMorris, Bernard’s Salon andSpa, 100 Springdale Rd.,Cherry Hill, 856-795-1707.

Jewelry courtesy ofTyphaney Shanker ofTyphaney B. Jewelry,www.typhaneyb.com; andJ.M. Lichterman & Co., 802Sansom St., 215-922-6965.

Clothing courtesy ofGramercy Boutique in theEagle Village Shops, 503 W.Lancaster Ave., Wayne,610-225-1770; Joan Shepp,1616 Walnut St.,215-735-2666,www.joanshepp.com; KnitWit, 1718 Walnut St.,215-564-4760,www.knitwitonline.com;lululemon athletica, 1527Walnut St., 215-563-4806,www.lululemon.com; Per LeiBoutique, 2 E. State St.,Media, 610-566-1254,www.perleiboutique.com;Pileggi Boutique, 715Walnut St., 215-922-3526,www.pileggiboutique.com;ViVi G. Shoes in the EagleVillage Shops, 503 W.Lancaster Ave., Wayne,610-688-6732,www.vivigshoes.com.

By Paul Jablow FOR THE INQUIRER

Photography by Akira SuwaSTAFF PHOTOGRAPHER

The founder and principal of MichaelHerold Design in New Hope is aLong Island native who moved tothis region as a teenager. MichaelHerold received an associate’s degree

from the Art Institute of Philadelphia and abachelor’s degree from St. Joseph’s University. InMay, his work was featured in show houses inPrinceton, where he designed the entrance halland second floor gallery, and in a farmhouse inFurlong, Bucks County, where he designed anupstairs sitting room. We sat down for a chatabout the dynamics of design in Philadelphia.

How did you get your start?I was, I don’t know, 10 years old. We were livingon Long Island and I’d be painting rooms andmoving furniture. My parents were veryunderstanding of my passion for design and theypretty much let me do what I wanted. There wereconstant experiments going on. Their supportpushed me in the right direction.

Were your parents in the design field?Not at all. My dad was a bond broker on WallStreet. My mom was a homemaker. We moved toYardley when he retired. I was 14. When I wasstill a teenager, I got two internships with localdesigners. I accompanied them to clients’ homes,really got a taste of the design world.

I noticed that your degree from St. Joseph’sis in business. Why is that?I’ve always been a self-starter, wanting to have myown business. I started my own firm in 2005 and Ispecialize in residential work. My business partner,

Federico Carbonell, joined me in 2008 andspecializes in the commercial end, mostlyhealth-care and fitness facilities. He’s actually aregistered nurse by trade, so he reallyunderstands their needs.

How would you characterize your designphilosophy?My philosophy is to find out what the client’spersonal style is. I want to take their personalityand steer it toward good design.In the process, the clients find out a lot aboutthemselves. A lot of the time, they say theydon’t know what they want but when youdig deep, they have a lot of opinions.Sometimes, I’ll go into their personal closetsand look at their wardrobe. Are they colors andpatterns? Are they neutral, black and white,clean lines?

OK, but what if you weredesigning a place with nospecific buyer in mind, or foryourself?I love new, clean lines, things thatare fresh, but I also love historyand old pieces. All my owndesigns have a history. There’salways warmth and a sense oftime. Right now, I’m intomidcentury modern. I’m a bigcollector of midcentury modernfurniture. I’d never design a placethat’s 100 percent modern.

What are some recentprojects you are proud of?I’m working on a full homerenovation in East Hampton,New York. It’s about a yearlongproject. We gutted the entirehouse and designed everything.

It’s a townhome. In Newtown [Bucks County],I’m working with a client on two boy’s bedroomsthat will be child-friendly but very sophisticated.They could be for anyone from a 15-year-old toan adult.

Are there any designers now working whomyou particularly admire?Yes. Kelly Wearstler in Los Angeles. She’s verydaring, takes a lot of risks. I like that in a designer.And Barbara Barry (also in Los Angeles). She’s atthe other extreme. More clean lines, more classic.Kind of two extremes.

What’s your dream project for the future?I’d like to design a hotel. I

Paul Jablow is a former Inquirer editor and writerfrom Bryn Mawr.

Distillingdesign frompersonalityMichael Herold likes to get to know a client’s personal style and take his cues from that.

home& design

Michael Herold in a New Hope kitchen he designed. “I love new, clean lines, things that are fresh, but I also love history and old pieces. All my own designs have a history.”

“I’d never design a place that’s 100 percent modern.”

I The Inquirer • 15

Nobody puts on a suit and tie anymoreto go out to eat, as formal diningcontinues its quick fade. ButPhiladelphia’s restaurants still havesome serious style. Here are eight

great destinations, from cutting-edge city hot spots tocool suburban classics, a Paris-style boite, and aparkside perch where the people-watching is as primeas what’s on the plate.

Adsum(not yet formally rated)700 S. Fifth St., 267-888-7002;www.adsumrestaurant.comThis fall’s hottest no-reservations table comes

courtesy of ex-Lacroix chef Matthew Levin, whosedebut as an owner-chef is refining contemporary bistrostyle in Queen Village with a menu that’s bothcutting-edge and affordable. The largely sub-$20sprices should appeal to a young neighborhood crowd.But this is also an adventure eater’s dream, where thecocktails come infused with smoked fruit, the alreadydecadent poutine (of duck-fat fries and gravy) iscrowned with foie gras, and spare-parts cookery(roasted marrow bones; KFC-fried sweetbreads) iselevated to a pedestal most local foodies will want toexperience.

oooBlackfish119 Fayette St.Conshohocken, 610-397-0888;www.blackfishrestaurant.comThere’s a reason the spare white rooms of this

contemporary Conshohocken storefront areperpetually filled with crisply pressed,pastel-wearing, fine-wine-toting Main Linedevotees. Chef-owner Chip Roman’s BYOB easilyremains one of the most sophisticated places inthe western burbs to dine, with a focus on seafoodthat is both refined and inventive, whether it’ssublime sashimi laced beneath heirloom radisheswith sweet and spicy Japanese sauce, perfectgrilled tuna, or Cape May oysters topped withfizzy clouds of frozen Meyer lemon soda that arethe ultimate raw bar fantasy.

ooKraftwork541 E. Girard Ave., 215-739-1700;www.kraftworkbar.comHipster style is displayed in all its pierced and

tattooed glory in red-hot Fishtown’s newestgastropub, a corner beer bar fitted with curlymaple communal tables and a tool motif that’s anode to industrial days past. The seasonally mindedkitchen had its share of stumbles, but someexceptional sandwiches, specials, and charcuterie,plus one of the area’s best new draft beer lists anda good-energy room, make this pub a keeper.

ooooLacroix at theRittenhouse210 West Rittenhouse Square, 215-790-2533;www.lacroixrestaurant.comThe blowout gastro-brunch at this green velvet

perch overlooking Rittenhouse Square remains oneof the best reasons to put on your weekend finest.There are also value-worthy prix-fixe menus andoccasional half-off wine-list discounts to keep thetranquil room humming the rest of the week. Arecent a la carte meal, though, was a finereminder of this young kitchen’s talent, with itemssuch as halibut over ravioli filled with cauliflowercream, and octopus with smoked hoisin and spicyCrenshaw melon, that meld elegance, innovation,and top-notch ingredients as artfully as anyrestaurant in town.

ooNunzio’s RistoranteRustico706 Haddon Ave., Collingswood, 856-858-9840;www.nunzioristoranterustico.comChef Nunzio Patruno’s trattoria in the heart of

downtown Collingswood has rightfully remainedone of South Jersey’s go-to spots for a fine familymeal built around classic dishes. The big andbustling Italian Village space can sometimes feelstretched to its limit (as can the service), but arecent meal also gave us several reminders why

Patruno has long been one of the region’s mostrespected cooks, with spot-on renditions of tenderosso buco and risotto Milanese, Dover solefilleted tableside, fantastic gnocchi, excellentamatriciana, and a tiramisu just like Nunzio’smama used to make.

ooRouge205 S. 18th St., 215-732-6622;www.rouge98.comParc may have sapped some of Rouge’s 18th

Street see-and-be-seen mojo, but RittenhouseSquare’s original parkside cafe can still put on aworthy feast for the eyes and palate. There’s an

EighteaterieswithelanFor good tastes, in city and suburbs.

By Craig LaBan INQUIRER RESTAURANT CRITIC

Photography by Michael Bryant STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER

food

The “sashimi-style” yellowtail belly appetizer is a sample of theinventive seafood at Conshohocken’s Blackfish.

16 • S E P T EMBER 2 0 1 0

updated menu from consulting chef Matt Levinthat’s added some smart new flavors (sweet cornsoup; scallops with chanterelles and chorizo) toRouge’s classics (the famed big burger). And on afine summer day, that skinny strip of sidewalkbetween Rouge’s cafe tables is still Philly’s premierpublic runway for the fashionistas to strut theirstuff.

oTwentyManningGrill261 S. 20th St., 215-731-0900;www.twentymanning.comAudrey Taichman and chef-partner Kiong Banh

have given their decade-old resto-lounge a homey

makeover, replacing the once-trendy Asian fusionfare and black-leather chic with a warmer yellowbistro look and a broader menu with lower pricesand neighborhood appeal. Order carefully, as thismenu has rough spots in between hits such as thedumplings, iceberg salad, pork chop, andhalf-baked Toll House cookie. But this cheerycorner space finally feels like the relaxedRittenhouse hang it was meant to be.

Zinc Bistro a Vins(not yet formally rated)246 S. 11th St., 215–351–9901;www.zincbarphilly.comYou could be at a hideaway Parisian boite once

you step inside this pocket bistro where thecorner zinc serves classic aperitifs (likerefreshing Lillet), the Pernod-splashed snailsmingle with melted leeks and walnuts, and thehouse special call-ahead duck gets pressed in asilver antique vise for one of the richest birds intown. This gem’s kitchen has finally improvedenough to match the cozy room’s charm. Socue the berets and Hermes scarves, and comehungry. I

Contact restaurant critic Craig LaBan at215-854-2682 or claban@phillynews.com.LaBan’s reviews can be accessed through TheInquirer’s archives at www.philly.com

The flavors are still fine at Rouge, and its sidewalkis a runway for fashionistas.

I The Inquirer • 17

He is installed now at the DavidRockwell-designed showpiececalled Nectar, its Buddha tapestrysoaring, its sushi bar hopping, arare moment of urban chic so far

out the Main Line (in Berwyn) that you can almosthear the buggy wheels grinding in LancasterCounty.It’s an odd amalgam that chef-owner Patrick

Feury, 46, presides over — the striking un-ruralpalette, the meticulous Asian-fusion plating, thebounty of some of the richest farm country on theEastern seaboard.But you get the impression that not only is he

comfortable — this chef who started out washing potsat 15 at a pork butcher’s near his North Jersey home— but also that maybe he planned it this way, or wouldhave if he could have.He sticks his garden herbs in the craft beer (Fists of

Feury) that he created with his brother, Terence, 43,now the celebrated top chef at Fork, the Old Citybistro. He coos over the wild Arctic char his fishmongerflies in. He salutes his farms on the menu — WindyAcres baby vegetables, Branch Creek salad greens.He was trained in New York (at the Waldorf-Astoria

and Le Cirque), and Paris (Les Olivades), and by theFrench-Asian master Susanna Foo. But his new rootsare here.Quite literally. Beside Nectar’s parking lot you see

his own crop of peppers, squash, Thai basil,parsley, sage, and Feury’s personal favorite —rosemary, the secret in his breads and the Feuryfamily brew.

Rick Nichols: What’s up with the beer thing? Didyou just hop on the happening craft-brewbandwagon?Patrick Feury: Nah, I’ve been fooling with it sincehigh school. My brother Terry bought me abeer-making kit.

R.N.: But this golden pale ale, Fists of Feury, isn’ta hobby beer. It’s pretty polished stuff, Nectar’sbest-seller.P.F.: Well, when I moved out here to open Nectar,I got in touch with Bill Covaleski, who runs VictoryBrewing in Downingtown. He did all the beermenu for us; I did the food pairing. We got to begreat friends. We both have young kids about thesame age. Later I got to know brewers at Allagashup in Maine.

R.N.: Speaking of young children, you told me your5-year-old son is into oysters, and your 7-year-olddaughter comes to Nectar on your day off to bakebread with you. Isn’t she also an ice skater?P.F.: I used to play ice hockey as a kid. And mywife Tina was a nationally ranked figure skater.When we were dating, we used to go to theWissahickon rink. Now our daughter is off to therink in West Chester all the time.

R.N.: And you’re also a skilled ice sculptor?P.F.: I actually ran the program when I wasstarting out at the Waldorf. And that’s how I mademy first connection to Le Cirque. Daniel Boulud,the chef at the time, needed ice sculptures for thephotographs in his first book. I told him I’d dothem for free if he’d let me work for free in hiskitchen. He wasn’t about to turn that down. Youcan still see them in the background; they sort oflook like ice mountains behind the grouper, blackbass, and mushrooms.

R.N.: Later you worked for Susanna Foo inPhiladelphia and eventually the now-closed Suilanin Atlantic City. I notice her influence in Nectardishes like roasted foie gras sushi with blacksummer truffle and pear, and lo mein with smokedwild boar and Chinese sausage. Was she a majorinspiration?P.F.: Let’s just say I wouldn’t even know how tomake a good pad Thai or lo mein or use the wok ifI hadn’t worked in her kitchen. I wouldn’t be in arestaurant like Nectar if it wasn’t for her. I’d be in aplace much more American-European.

R.N.: Your dad taught sixth-grade math, history, andsocial studies in the town of Rumson, N.J. But hispassion seemed to be his 21-foot Sea Ray, and birds —the osprey he nurtured as a park ranger in Sandy Hookduring the summers.P.F.: Yes, that was a bit of an in-joke. Even if you tookmath or history from him, you learned about birds.

R.N.: Isn’t Ellen Yin, the owner at Fork, fromRumson?P.F.: She was telling me once that we grew up inneighboring towns. And I said, “Did you go toschool in Rumson?” She said yes. And I said,“Then you had Mr. Feury.” And she said, “Oh,you’re that Feury?!”

R.N.: You got started humbly enough, washing potsat Valencia Pork, the Italian butcher shop in NorthJersey. How did that end up?P.F.: The boss didn’t want me to leave until Ifound someone else to take my pot-washing job. So,I found someone: my younger brother, Terry. I

Contact columnist Rick Nichols at 215-854-2715 orrnichols@phillynews.com. Read his recent work athttp://go.philly.com/ricknichols.

AccomplishedandcomfortableChef Patrick Feury crafts Asian fusion a la Fooat Berwyn’s Nectar. And rosemary’s his baby.

By Rick NicholsINQUIRER FOOD COLUMNIST

Photography by Michael S. WirtzSTAFF PHOTOGRAPHER

food

Patrick Feury on Susanna Foo: “I wouldn’t even know how to make a good pad Thai … or use the wok if I hadn’t worked in her kitchen. I wouldn’t be in a restaurant like Nectar if it wasn’t for her.”

18 • S E P T EMBER 2 0 1 0

Regent Street FestivalIn London, catwalk shows in the Regent Street Festivalare open to the public on a first-come basis.

The FrenchEmbassy willbe one venueduringWashington,D.C., FashionWeek.DAMION MILLER

By Amy LaughinghouseFOR THE INQUIRER

Designer collections debut on catwalksthis month, with Mercedes-BenzFashion Week starting things off todayin New York. Although it’s nearlyimpossible to snag a seat at top shows

such as Chanel or Dior, here’s a guide to three runwaygetaways where you can make the fashion scene.

LondonFashion Week — Sept. 17-22www.londonfashionweek.co.ukSee: The Regent Street Festival 2010: A Mile ofStyle will host catwalk shows that are open to thepublic on a first-come, first-served basis on Sept.26. Shops along this elegant promenade aregetting in on the action, too, offering champagneand refreshments, style advice, in-store DJs, and agift with a purchase. Talent spotters will also bescouting the crowd for model material.www.regentstreetonline.com.Through January 2012, Kensington Palace

becomes the Enchanted Palace, a dreamlike realmwhere fashion designers and artists such asVivienne Westwood interpret tales of theprincesses who called this place home. www.hrp.org.uk/kensingtonpalace, 011 44 20 3166 6000.Shop: Check out the hip mix around iconicCarnaby Street (www.carnaby.co.uk). Need ashopping sherpa? Book a complimentary “bagboy” or “bag girl” to carry your purchases asthey guide you around Seven Dials in CoventGarden (www.sevendials.co.uk/bagboys).Dine: “Prêt-à-Portea” at the Berkeley hotel is achic treat, with cookies and cakes shaped likeshoes and accessories; about $55.www.the-berkeley.co.uk, 011 44 20 7235 6000.Sleep: Claridge’s new accommodations byDiane von Furstenberg lend this classic hotelau courant cachet. Doubles from about $769.www.claridges.co.uk, 011-44-20-7629-8860.The May Fair, Fashion Week’s “official” hotel,boasts a buzzy bar, spa, and casino. Doublesfrom about $306. www.themayfairhotel.co.uk,011 44 20 7629 7777.Info: www.visitlondon.com, www.visitbritain.us

Washington, D.C.Fashion Week — Sept. 20-26www.dcfashionweek.orgSee: Bridal collections, menswear, international couture and other spring and summerstyles by designers from around the world will be showcased at venues such as the TextileMuseum, the embassies of Indonesia and France, and Tabaq Bistro. Admission ranges fromfree to $150. Visit www.dcfashionweek.org or call 202-271-7235 for ticket information.Shop: Take a walk along Wisconsin Avenue to Sassanova for shoes and accessories(www.sassanova.com, 1-877-471-0070), Urban Chic for a mix of up-and-coming andestablished designers (www.urbanchiconline.com; 202-338-5398), and Filene’s Basement(www.filenesbasement.com, 202-966-0208) for designer discounts.Dine: Mie N Yu combines dishes from Asia, North Africa, and the Mediterranean inthemed spaces that are as exotic as the menu. www.mienyu.com, 202-333-6122.Sleep: The 183-room Hotel Monaco marries bright, bold patterns with 19th-centuryarchitectural details. Doubles from $369. www.monaco-dc.com, 1-800-546-7866.Info: http://washington.org

continued on page 22

FashionfriendlyThe hautest shows may be off-limits,but some runway events bid youwelcome.

travel

20 • S E P T EMBER 2 0 1 0

ParisFashion Week— Sept. 28-Oct. 7www.modeaparis.comSee: Enjoy guilt-free fashion at anEthical Fashion event, featuring aknitting workshop and runway show,on Sept. 26 at the Cité de la Mode etdu Design (Docks en Seine).Designers are committed to fairminimum wages and a maximum48-hour work week; some use recycledor organic materials. Tickets costabout $13 at the door. More info:www.ethicalfashionshow.com,011 33 1 43 48 94 68.You can also reserve a seat for a

free half-hour fashion show at 3 p.m.each Friday at Galeries Lafayette, aglass-domed, 10-story upscaledepartment store on BoulevardHaussmann. E-mailwelcome@galerieslafayette.com or call011 33 1 42 82 36 40 for reservation. More info:www2.galerieslafayette.com/international/index.do.Shop: The Champs-Elysées, Avenue George V, and AvenueMontaigne form the Bermuda Triangle of bank accounts; you’llmarvel as your money miraculously disappears.Dine: Feast your eyes on the latest styles as models glidethrough the bar at Hotel Le Bristol’s Fashion High Tea, usuallyheld once a month. Past events have featured Chloé, ChristianLacroix, La Perla, and Versace. From about $73, including your

meal. www.lebristolparis.com, 011 33 1 53 43 43 00.Sleep: Hotel le Bellechasse by Christian Lacroix offers 34boudoirs with delicious details such as butterflies on the ceilingand zebra print bathrooms. Doubles from about $234.www.lebellechasse.com, 011 33 1 45 50 22 31.Info: www.parisinfo.com. I

Amy Laughinghouse is a freelance writerbased in London.

continued from page 20

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By Howard ShapiroINQUIRER STAFF WRITER

As you walk along a bustling street ina foreign city, a smart suit orfashionable dress in a store windowcatches your eye. But what if itdoesn’t look as good or fit as well

when you get home?Thus, the foreign custom tailor — insurance,

more or less, that you get the clothing you wantwith the fit you should have.And thanks to the Internet, you can get

impeccably tailored clothing long after your trip —or without ever leaving home — for the same priceas quality U.S. clothiers charge: $300 to $500 for aman’s suit, $100 to $200 for a woman’s skirt.Here are four foreign tailors that give you an idea

of your options. Remember that many “bespoke”tailors — those who make custom clothing —occasionally come to the United States socustomers can order in person.

Tailored Suits ParisChâteau Beausejour4 Route Libardac, Bordeaux, Francewww.tailoredsuitsparis.comFounded by two tailors from Paris, this shop is

based in a château in Bordeaux. Because customers“are most times very busy,” tailors work with themonline and in person, going to hotels in Gironde,Aquitaine, and sometimes Paris to show options andconduct fittings, says the company’s Matt Salignac.The company works only with natural Italian

fabrics — more than 500, plus custom linings — tocreate suits, shirts, and coats for men and women.It takes 15 business days for delivery. A two-piece suit

or tuxedo costs $255 to $400;skirts and trousers, $100 to $175.

Vinnie’sInternational HongKong Custom TailorsTim Sha TsuiKowloon, Hong Kongwww.vinnieshk.comFor 21 years, Vinnie’s has

made everything from women’sdresses to men’s topcoats, withabout 5,000 fabric choices andannual visits to other countries— New York and Washingtonwere among recent trips.The finished products arrive

within four to six weeks. Shirtsstart at about $50; suits, $400;and dresses, $300. A six-shirtpackage, with choice of fabrics,begins at $270.

Steven HitchcockMaster TailorSherborne House13 Savile Row, London, Englandwww.stevenhitchcock.co.ukAs a teenager, Hitchcock apprenticed on Savile Row,

London’s fabled clothing district, and has never left.“My shop is a working tailor’s shop, suits hanging

ready for clients who have placed an order, waitingfor them to be tried on,” he says. Suits “are all cutby myself and handmade by my experiencedtailors” in a time-honored London tradition thatcommands top prices.Fabrics come from all over the world. Two-piece

suits cost about $3,350;jackets, $2,240; trousers,$1,120.Hitchcock has expanded his

U.S. clientele by traveling toNew York three times a year.

Ravis International1091/67 Soi33 New Petchburi Rd.Bangkok, Thailandwww.ravistailor.comPolitical unrest has curbed

American travel to Bangkokthis year, but hotel occupancyrates continue to climb andnormal back-and-forthbetween the United States andThailand will presumablyreturn. Even so, Ravis makesmany trips to the States forfittings — just this summer, toRichmond, Va.; Washington,D.C.; Stamford and Hartford,Conn.; New York; Detroit;Chicago; Seattle; Los Angeles;and San Francisco.Fabrics for men’s and

women’s clothing range from pure cottons andlinens to cashmere, wools, and silks. In addition tosingle-item sales (shirts, $65; suits, $275), Ravisoffers seasonal packages. Recently, three blousesand a silk scarf were $180; five shirts and twoneckties, $240. I

Contact staff writer Howard Shapiro at215-854-5727 or hshapiro@phillynews.com.

Foreign flairInternational tailors are a fitting choice — and for some of them, no passport is necessary.

travel

Sherborne HouseA suit on display in Steven Hitchcock’s tailorshop on London's famed Savile Row.

Tailored Suits ParisMatt Salignac of Tailored Suits Paris in the Bordeaux château where the firm is based. The French tailor uses only Italian fabrics and delivers clothing within 15 business days.

I The Inquirer • 23

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