SHOP Frankfurt AW14

If you are looking for a wide selection

of exquisite timepieces and FINe jewellery,

you only need to keep one name in mind.

For more than 135 years, the name

“WEMPE” has stood for the utmost

expertise in the art of making jewellery

and timepieces. We offer a unique

selection of valuable treasures at 28

Wempe showrooms world-wide. We are

especially proud because for more than

a century we have been privileged to

contribute to the grand feelings that our

customers express when they purchase

jewellery or timepieces. Our pieces of

jewellery uphold international standards

and are born in our own atelier. This is

true for unusual one-of-a-kind items

as well as for our diverse assortment

of classic pieces with brilliant-cut

diamonds. And a century-old friendship

links us with the world’s foremost watch

www.wempe.com We accept all credit cards.

manufactories. You will find WEMPE

showrooms at the loveliest locations

in great European metropolises, New

York City and in Beijing. Each shop also

offers service or advice whenever you

require it, so you can be certain that we

will always be available to meet your

individual needs. We cordially invite you

to discover an abundance of interesting

new items and exclusive special models

at one of Europe’s leading jewellers. We

look forward to your visit!

An der Hauptwache 7, T +49.(0)69.200 11

Goethestraße 10, T +49.(0)69.20 97 47 47

Airport Frankfurt, Terminal 1,

Level 3, Gates Z, T +49.(0)69.69 02 71 61

Jaeger-LeCoultre Boutique

Goethestraße 4-8, T +49.(0)69.928 83 08-0

HAMBURG LONDON PARIS NEW YORK

Frankfurt Kaiserstraße 1

und viele mehr

and many more

ein Schweizer Traditionsunternehmen und eines

der führenden Häuser für Uhren und Schmuck in

Europa. In Frankfurts größtem Juweliergeschäft

erwartet Sie eine überwältigenden Auswahl an Luxus-

Uhrenmarken und exquisiter Schmuckstücke, ein

erstklassiger Service sowie eine eigene Rolex und

Patek Philippe Boutique.

Willkommen bei Bucherer,

a Swiss company with a long tradition and one of

the leading establishments for watches and jewellery in

Europe. In Frankfurt’s largest jewellery store,

you will find an overwhelming selection of luxury

watch brands and exquisite jewellery, as well as

first-class service and an in-shop Rolex and

Patek Philippe Boutique.

Welcome to Bucherer,

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Berlin Dusseldorf Frankfurt Hamburg Munich Nuremberg | Basel Bern Davos Geneva Interlaken Lausanne Locarno Lugano Lucerne St. Gallen St. Moritz Zermatt Zurich | Vienna | Paris | bucherer.com

CHRIST JEWELLERS AND WATCHMAKERS IN FRANKFURT.

Hessen Center · Nordwestzentrum · Zeil 77 · 8x International Airport Frankfurt · Skyline Plaza

CHRIST Juweliere und Uhrmacher seit 1863 GmbH, Kabeler Straße 4, 58099 Hagen | CHRIST service line 0180/5 32 10 98 (€ 0.14/min. from a German landline; mobile phone prices max. € 0.42/min.) | *price on request | ** white, small internal characteristics, good cut

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www.christ.de

Passion. Made in Germany.

The CHRIST DIAMONDS Collection.

Experience diamonds in a whole new way

at over 200 CHRIST specialty stores

throughout Germany.

Only at CHRIST

CHRIST DIAMONDS Ring*

585/- gold with rhodolites and

brilliant cut diamonds, together

approx. 0.15 ct.**

Frankfurt, ZeilKarstadt Warenhaus GmbH | Theodor-Althoff-Straße 2 | 45133 Essen

Our branches in excellent downtown locations of most

important German cities provide shoppers with a modern and

comfortable environment which makes shopping an experience.

Not only strong brands but also our outstanding advisory

service and innovative events attract throngs of buyers.

Enjoy your next shopping spree on the discovery journey

through our store Karstadt Frankfurt.

Fashion, Lifestyle & more

Beauty and more …visit Europe’s

No. 1 perfumery!

• Zeil 100, 069 - 133869150• Kaiserstr. 1, 069 - 284969

WE WILL BE PLE ASED TO WELCOME YOU TO THE

DOUGL A S WORLD OF BE AU T Y IN FR ANKFURT:

Discover a perfumery tradition that dates back more than 100 years, and enjoy Europe’s largest assortment of leading beauty brands – from exclusive fragrances and luxury skin care to trendy color cosme-tic products and fashion accessories.

With 1,200 perfumeries in 18 countries, we are dedicated to providing excellent services and personal consultation to our customers.

Editor’s Letter

14

/globalblue/globalblue /globalblue@环球蓝联-GlobalBlue

@GlobalBlue /GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu

Emma Cheevers ILL

US

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HU

Welcome to Frankfurt

Even if you’ve visited Frankfurt before, you may be surprised to discover

the city’s Porzellan Museum, which showcases German’s rich history

as a world leader in ceramics – fnd out more in our feature on page 54.

In this edition, we also profle German fashion’s eco-friendly yet elegant

pioneers (page 42) and reveal the Oska brand’s refreshing take

on womenswear (page 48).

SHOP is part of Global Blue, a Tax Free Shopping market leader,

and publishes guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia.

Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell

you everything you need to know about your chosen destination: the top

global brands, the local favourites you shouldn’t miss and the essential

stores, boutiques, restaurants and places to visit.

For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com. It’s even easier

to claim your tax savings with the Global Blue Card – signing up is

free and you can fnd all the details on the website. And don’t forget

to download the Global Blue mobile app!

With this edition of SHOP, the Global Blue app and your Global Blue

Card, you’re ready to enjoy the best that Frankfurt has to ofer.

Athens and Thessaloniki

Austria

Austrian Alps

Barcelona

Belgium

Berlin

Buenos Aires

Cologne

Copenhagen

Cyprus

Чехия

Düsseldorf

Estonia

Frankfurt

French Riviera

دليل ألانيا德国指南

Руководство Германия

Gothenburg

Hamburg

Hanover

Helsinki Area

Holland

Iceland

Istanbul

Italy

Lake Saimaa

Lebanon

London

Madrid

Milan

Munich

Naples

Nuremburg

Oslo

Paris

Portugal

Prague

Riga

Rimini and Riccione

Rome

Seoul

Singapore

Stockholm

Stuttgart

Switzerland

Tokyo

Vienna

Vilnius

oyster perpetual

datejust lady 31

FO S SIL FL AG SHIP S TO RE

A N D ER H AU P T WAC H E / ZEI L 123

FO S SIL S TO RES FR A NKF UR T

S K Y L I N E P L A Z A · F R A N K F U R T A I R P O R T

W W W.FO S SIL .C O M

Shopping at its best!

Located at the ZEIL, one of

Europe’s famous shopping streets,

GALERIA Kaufhof offers you a full-

service package: excellent products,

capable staff and diverse amenities

guarantee you an unforgettable experi-

ence. From brand-name fashion items

to jewellery, from household goods to

accessories – our fascinating shops

and themed areas provide a huge varie-

ty of international products and our

restaurant “Leonhard’s” has an unique

view over Frankfurt’s skyline. The tradi-

tional department store chain celebrates

2014 its 135th anniversary with special

offers and events. If you come from a

country outside the EU, you can even

enjoy tax-free shopping at

GALERIA Kaufhof!

Please scan the QR-code with your smart-

phone to get more information about your

GALERIA store Frankfurt, An der Hauptwache.

FRANKFURT

AN DER HAUPTWACHE

fashion | lifestyle | beauty

GALERIA Kaufhof...

... makes you fall in

love with Germany

www.galeria.deGALERIA Kaufhof GmbH, Leonhard-Tietz-Str. 1, 50676 Cologne

Contributors

20

globalblue.com

Mónica Goya

Journalist and photographer

Mónica Goya is a picture

assistant at SHOP, helping to

source images from around

the world. When not at work,

she loves hiking and sharing

meals and conversation with

family and friends.

Josh Sims

Freelance journalist and

editor Josh Sims contributes to

publications that include the

Financial Times, Independent,

Observer, Wallpaper and

Esquire. His latest book, 50

Years of British Style Culture,

was published in 2012.

Gwyneth Holland

Journalist and trend consultant

Gwyneth Holland works with

leading brands and agencies to

discover the future as well as

writing for global fashion and

trend publications. She is a

founder of new fashion trends

service Unique Style Platform.

Tang Chiew Ling

Graphic designer and artist

Tang Chiew Ling created

this season’s cover illustration

for SHOP Frankfurt. Her

beautiful illustration uses

real leaves to make the shape

of a sleek and stylish dress,

inspired by our feature on

page 42 about Germany’s

latest eco-fashions. Tang

Chiew Ling is based in Kuala

Lumpur in Malaysia.

Read more about our

illustrations at

globalblue.com/covers.IL

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hIe

w L

INg

Shop Floor

22

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the

information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury

or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2014 Global Blue

E DI TOR I A L

Editor-in-chief

Emma Cheevers

PU BL I SH I NG

Publisher

James Morris

Managing editor

Sally McIlhone

Cover illustrator

Tang Chiew Ling

Contributors

Gwyneth Holland,

Maria Kirchen-Hill, Josh Sims

Production editor

Caterina Mazzolai

Assistant production editor

Ruairidh Pritchard

Features editor

Stephen Doig

City guide and lifestyle editor

Verity Hogan

Fashion and news editor

Dominique Fenn

Assistant fashion and market editor

Ximena Daneri

Assistant fashion and news editors

Hannah Lewis,

Isabella Redmond Styles

Fashion assistant

Gemma Latham

Editorial intern

Sammy Ha

Chief sub-editor

Hester Lacey

Copy editors

Sue Flook, Claire Gervat,

Ann Morphew, Harriet O’Brien

Picture editor

Dorcas Brown

Assistant picture editors

Kirsty Andrews, Sarah Beyts

Picture assistants

Grace Bird, Mónica Goya

Picture intern

Rubi Ali

Artworker

Adam Dhaliwal

Artworking assistants

Dionne Hélène, Ai-Lun Huang,

Milkha Lala

Artworking intern

Hibba Sayeed

Online editor

Kirsty Welsh

Online editorial assistant

Katie Ramsingh

Online assistants

Marina Nelson,

Emily Scrivener

Commercial editor

Justine Clifton

Commercial artworking assistant

Aaron Carline

Commercial artworking interns

George Trinick,

Ellie Vigors

Chinese editor

Yuan Fang

Associate Chinese editor

Junjie Dou

Chinese contributing editor

Quingya He

Chinese translators

Xun Ji, Mengjiao Qu, Yin Shi,

Chenguang Yi, Yi Zhang

Chinese interns

Yunhan Fang, Tiantian Liu

Russian editor

Anastasia Nemchenok

Associate Russian editor

Daria Orlova

Assistant Russian editor

Kira Savchenko

Russian editorial assistant

Linda Blank

Russian translators

Teena Garnik,

Gary Ramazanov

Digital manager

Eamonn Leacy

Digital production manager

Funmi Paul-Taiwo

Online commercial editor

Sally Ashley-Cound

Project manager

Bina Summan

International digital

marketing executive

Nina Kobalia

Digital marketing executive

Wenhan Zhang

Digital production assistant

Paul Lecoanet

Advertising and partnership manager

Riccardo Canini

Distribution and partnership manager

Claudia Suárez

Print

Dane Consultancy

GL OBA L BLU E GE R M A N Y

Vice president sales Central Europe

Thorsten Lind

Country manager

Jörg Schönbeck

Marketing sales manager

Michael Mauerhoff

Sales manager

Pino Dufter

Marketing specialist

Mareike Dieckmann

Global Blue Germany, Vogelsanger Weg 38,

40470 Düsseldorf,

[email protected]

Regional tourist office

Tourismus+Congress,Kaiserstrasse 56,

60329 Frankfurt am Main,

+49 (0)69 2123 8800,

frankfurt-tourismus.de

SHOP is published by Global Blue

Group headquarters

Global Blue SA,

Route de Crassier 7,

CH - 1262 Eysins, Switzerland

Corporate registration number

5565726923

globalblue.com

[email protected]

Contents

24

p.42

Above: Isabell de Hillerin autumn/winter 2014/15

Products

30 Check Out

sHoP selects a standout piece from

Frankfurt this season

32 Products

Key looks for the season, from fashion and

footwear to jewellery and accessories

N e ws

34 Shop Window

one store not to be missed in Frankfurt

36 News

seasonal updates on shops, services and

new products

40 In Store …

… with Marc-Jens Biegel in his fagship

Frankfurt jewellery store

F e at u r e s

42 Cover Story: Sustainable Style

Germany’s well-established green scene

continues to encourage fashion design that

combines elegance with an eco-friendly

attitude, reports Gwyneth Holland

48 The New Cool

the oska label has gone from strength to

strength thanks to its refreshing approach

to womenswear. Josh sims talks to founder

Helmut Bayer about his recipe for success

54 Breaking The Mould

German porcelain has always been

innovative and the country’s top brands

remain world leaders, as stephen

doig discovers

Montblanc Star Classiqueand Hugh Jackman

Crafted for New Heights

Manufactured in Switzerland, the Star Classique Automatic, with its slim 8.9 mm 18 K red gold case and its ergonomically shaped case back, is a fi ne companion for an elegant appearance. Visit and shop at Montblanc.com

Munich, Berlin, Cologne, Hamburg, Düsseldorf, Frankfurt, Stuttgart, Hannover

Contents

26

Online

English | Р ус ский | 中文

Follow the Global Blue editors

on the move for up-to-the-

minute shopping tips and

insider information.

/globalblue

/globalblue

/globalblue

@环球蓝联-GlobalBlue

@GlobalBlue

/GlobalBlue

/GlobalBlueRu

GET SOCIALFASHION

COMPETITIONS

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The latest in luxury shopping and travel is updated every day at globalblue.com

E x pE r i E ncE

60 Table Talk

Frankfurt’s fnest restaurants ofer menus

that embrace an array of infuences,

distinctive dining rooms and exemplary

service. Verity Hogan suggests some of

the city’s best

Gu i dE

65 Maps and guides to the key shopping

areas of Frankfurt, plus useful information

for visitors

E ssE n t i a l s

86 How To Shop Tax Free

the simple steps to saving money

on your shopping

t r a nsl at ions

89 Русский Перевод

94 美文翻译

sou V E n i r

98 the essential item to bring home

OVER 60 PREMIUM BRANDS IN FLAGSHIP OUTLETS REDUCED BY UP TO 70 %**

ARMANI . BALLY . BURBERRY . COACH . ESCADA . HACKETT . HUGO BOSS . LACOSTE .

MAX MARA . MICHAEL KORS . NIKE . POLO RALPH LAUREN . SWAROVSKI and many more

LIKE SHOPPING? LOVE OUTLETCITY!

In Hugo Boss’ home town, just two hours from Frankfurt, OUTLETCITY METZINGEN

offers you a unique shopping experience in modern inner-city surroundings with

exclusive flagship outlets, prize-winning architecture and tax-free shopping.

Exclusive events and monthly themes like Luxury Denim, Autumn Cocooning or

Winterdays make your visit to OUTLETCITY METZINGEN a unique experience all year round.

* Show this ad at the Tourist Information Metzingen, get your personal Shopping Pass and beneft from exclusive additional discounts

of 10 % at participating stores. Valid until 31.05.2015

** Compared to the manufacturer’s previous RRP

SPECIAL OFFER

SHOPPING

PASS*

TOMMY HILFIGER STOREBÖRSENSTRASSE 1FRANKFURT

30 | PRODUCTS

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 86

belt factory, Abro soon expanded to produce

a line of women’s handbags and has continued

to evolve, now ofering a complete accessories

range including footwear and small leather

goods, in addition to bags and belts. Achim

and Stefan Bruder, the third generation of

the founding family, ensure the brand remains

relevant to modern fashions, while maintaining

a high standard of quality and craftsmanship. gl

Abro backpack, €349, Abro, Rathenauplatz 1,

60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 2193 9450, abro.de

* for map go to page 74

BACK TO BLACK

This covetable backpack from women’s

accessories brand Abro is made in Germany

from the highest-quality leather. Its quilted

pockets and long tasseled zips give it a retro

rodeo style, while the adjustable shoulder straps

address functionality, a core principle of the

Abro brand. The company is based in Rodgau,

a small town near Frankfurt, and was founded

by the Bruder family in the 1930s. Initially a

Check Out

ESC ADA .COM

FRANKFURT AM MAIN

GOETHEPL ATZ 5 – 7 +49 69 90025995

32 | PRODUCTS


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2. Rimowa Limbo Multiwheel size

52 suitcase, €519,

Galeria Kaufhof, Zeil 116-126,

60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 21910,

rimowa.de

3. Coccinelle bag, €339,

Kofer Klein, Rossmarkt 10,

60311 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 284814,

coccinelle.com

4. Louis Vuitton scarf, from €570,

Louis Vuitton, Goethestrasse 1,

60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 280010,

louisvuitton.com

1. Swarovski Babylon earrings, €59,

Swarovski,

Grosse Bockenheimer Strasse 8,

60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 2972 9866,

swarovski.com

SPOTS, STRIPES AND SPARKLE

Upgrade casual daywear with

rich colour, a clash of patterns

and a fash of sparkle

1

2 4

3

globalblue.com

SHOP | 33

7. Michael Kors lipstick, €27.99,

Douglas, Zeil 98-102,

60313 Frankfurt,

+49 (0)69 1338 69150,

michaelkors.com

6. Jimmy Choo Datcher boots, €995,

Jimmy Choo, Goethestrasse 27,

60313 Frankfurt,

+49 (0)69 2578 82800,

jimmychoo.com

5. Closed sweater, €259,

Breuninger, Main-Taunus Zentrum 26,

65843 Sulzbach,

+49 (0)69 695 2200,

closed.com

5 6

7


34 | N E WS

Shop Window

across the world, it was only a few years ago that Feiler opened its frst standalone store. The Frankfurt boutique does not disappoint fans of the brand. A cheery, colourful space, the store ofers a unique opportunity to browse the entire range of Feiler goods, from towels, bathrobes and tablecloths to handbags, scarves and childrenswear. The array of items available is almost as vast as the variety of colours and patterns on display. glFeiler, Schillerstrasse 18, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 2193 2832, feiler.de


A HISTORY IN TEXTILES

In 1928, textile worker Ernst Feiler gathered a team of 15 home weavers and began producing fne chenille items. By 1950, when Feiler’s daughter and son-in-law joined the family business, its success was already marked; the Feiler family possessed a keen ability to recognise the importance of technological developments, which established the company as a front-runner in the chenille industry. Though its excellent wares have long been sold

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Skagen Denmark

Flagship Store:

MyZeil

Zeil 106-110

60313 Frankfurt

www.skagen.de


DANISH DESIGN

Danish lifestyle brand Skagen has opened a store in Frankfurt, located on the Zeil, the city’s famous shopping street. The brand champions the Danish design principles of simplicity, functionality and purpose, ofering elegant and innovative craftsmanship. The new store houses all the Skagen collections, including jewellery, watches and sunglasses. New for autumn/winter is a selection of high-quality leather bags and accessories for men and women which beautifully epitomise modern classic design, exemplifed by the Harbor document bag pictured, which is sure to become a wardrobe staple. glSkagen, MyZeil, Zeil 106, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 2097 6961, skagen.com


KORS COMES TO FRANKFURT

Few designers can boast such a career as Michael Kors. The American designer has come a long way from his beginnings in a small corner in New York’s Bergdorf Goodman store. As well as men’s and women’s ready-to-wear items, Michael Kors creates sought-after accessories, from fragrances to watches and bags. Look out for the Hamilton Traveller tote – perfect for jet-setters – in the newly opened store in Frankfurt. Be sure to also pick up a pair of stylish aviator sunglasses, an absolute Kors classic, perfect whatever the season. hlMichael Kors, Goethestrasse 32, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 1338 9360, destinationkors.com


36 | N E WS

SHOP | 37

globalblue.com

SHOP THE WORLD

Using our wealth of insider knowledge,

we have created a smartphone app to

help you to plan your trip. The app gives

information on 45 cities in 22 countries

– thousands of stores are listed and

located on maps, with full contact details

and a description of what each store

sells. Our maps guide you right to the

store and can also be downloaded for

offline use enabling you to create your

own itinerary. You can also sign up for the

Global Blue Card and, once you’re logged

in the My Tax Refund wallet becomes

available, allowing you to track pending

refunds. The app is available in Chinese,

English and Russian, and includes a

Tax Refund Calculator to tell you how

much you’ll save on every purchase you

make in every different country you visit.

There are also instructions on how to use

Currency Choice, our service that allows

you to pay in your home currency.

globalblue.com

Download the Global Blue guide

from the App Store or Play Store

GEM GENIUS

Having celebrated its 125th anniversary in 2013, Swiss brand Bucherer is one of the oldest purveyors of watches and fne jewellery in Germany. Handed down through three generations of the eponymous family, the house draws on its rich heritage for each design, incorporating its traditions, knowledge and expertise in precious metals and gems. Bucherer creates jewellery which is made to last and to be loved. These elegant earrings, available in rose or white gold, feature rows of diamonds on a spiral band which encases a glistening pearl. As is the case with so many of Bucherer’s creations, they epitomise evening elegance. mkh

Bucherer, Kaiserstrasse 1, 60311 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 138820, bucherer.com



38 | N E WS

PAINTED LADIES

This season’s Burberry Prorsum collection, notable as the frst from Christopher Bailey in his new dual role as CEO and chief creative of the British brand, marked a departure from the ladylike silhouettes we have come to expect from Burberry. For autumn/winter the Burberry girl is a free-spirited bohemian, with fowing fabrics as the canvas for hand-painted foral fourishes. The collection was inspired by Charleston, the English country home of artists Vanessa Bell and Duncan Grant, who decorated its interior in post-impressionist style. This artistic infuence is abundant throughout the collection, seen in the exaggerated brushstrokes applied liberally to dresses, bags, scarves, shoes and coats. The catwalk show concluded with the cast of models parading in initialled capes, which immediately became the must-have piece of the season. glBurberry, Goethestrasse 26-28, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 9139 6071, burberry.com


TIME FOR WEMPE

The story of Wempe began over 135 years ago with a young watchmaker named Gerhard Diedrich Wilhelm Wempe, whose eye for quality and skills in marketing soon got him noticed by powerful clients. His watch designs were beautiful and accomplished, and by 1907 his success had allowed him to open a fagship in Hamburg. The core values of beauty and quality have remained paramount within Wempe, which is still a family-run company to this day. It is one of Germany’s most prestigious watchmakers, and a timepiece by Wempe should be on every enthusiast’s wish list. hlWempe, An der Hauptwache 7, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 20011, wempe.de

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40 | NEWS


In Store: Biegel

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iein Frankfurt. We sell modern jewellery in a

wide range of precious metals and materials,

including gemstones and diamonds. We also

sell bespoke jewellery. One of our specialities

is 24-carat jewellery – forged and hardened.

‘I have a lot of great memories of this store.

For example, in 2002 I decided to collaborate

with international designers. I worked with

Konstantin Grcic, Tom Dixon, Alfredo

Häberli, and Ronan and Erwan Bouroullec,

to name just a few. At the launch of their

pieces all of them came to join the private view.

It was great to have all those great designers

at the same place. The echo in the media was

enormous. It was something like a restart

of our business and a very infuential change

in modern jewellery.’

Biegel, Börsenplatz 13-15, 60313 Frankfurt,

+49 (0)69 285908, biegel.biz

‘I am the sole proprietor of Biegel and also

the designer. We are a small team of just four,

including myself. Right now we are celebrating

our 50th anniversary.

‘Our store is located in one of only a few

old buildings that remain in the centre of

Frankfurt. It is right opposite the German

stock market, which is also an old building

of the same style. The whole area is quite

authentic and unique in Frankfurt. Since the

store opened, the square itself has not changed

a lot, because the buildings mentioned are

listed. But the surrounding area has become

extremely vivid and very dynamic.

‘The shop has six-metre-high ceilings,

which is why we have a mezzanine level.

Manufacturing, presentation, service and

consulting, as well as sales, are all under one

roof. This makes our shop unique – at least

Marc-Jens Biegel is the second generation of his family to take the reins at

fne jewellery company Biegel, founded in 1964. Biegel’s close-knit team of

goldsmiths creates both bespoke jewellery and luxurious ready-to-wear pieces.

Ximena Daneri spoke to the designer in the frm’s Frankfurt fagship store

Baden Baden · Berlin · düsseldorf · frankfurt · Garmisch-Partenkirchen

hamBurG · innsBruck · kitzBühel · köln · münchen · new York · salzBurG

st. moritz · stuttGart · sYlt · zermatt · zürich

bogner.com

42 | FEATURES

Sustainable

SHOP | 43

Opposite: Isabell de Hillerin autumn/winter 2014/15/89 94

Across Germany, niche brands are creating

a new future for luxury fashion, based on

craftsmanship, innovation, sustainability and

quality. These ethical creations are a world

away from the stereotypes of eco-friendly

fashion – no lumpy silhouettes, sackcloth

or dangling trinkets here. Instead, innovative

materials, carefully sourced accessories

and sleek lines ofer sustainable style.

Germany has a long history of green

consumption, with avid recyclers, clean energy

campaigners and Fair Trade fans across the

country, but it’s only recently that the country’s

eco attitude has transferred into the fashion

world. ‘There are nearly as many organic food

shops in Germany as there are supermarkets.

Sustainability has become normal now,

so naturally it’s impacting fashion,’ says

designer Isabell de Hillerin.

While innovative eco design is now

coming to the forefront, Germany already has

a strong foundation in natural textiles. In the

70s, eco-pioneers including Hessnatur, Disana

and Engel founded the International Verband

der Naturtextilwirtschaft (International

Association of Natural Textile Industry or

IVN), which helped to develop the Global

Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) for fabrics,

now frequently seen on labels.

Germany’s well-established green scene continues to encourage fashion design that combines elegance with an eco-friendly attitude, reports Gwyneth Holland

Style

44 | FEATURES

Above (from top): Ethical Fashion Show Berlin, July 2014; Isabell de Hillerin autumn/winter 2014/15

Eco designers have been working for

years, to little fanfare, but much of the current

interest in sustainable fashion is due to growing

awareness of the real cost of cheap fast fashion.

The tragic collapse of the Rana Plaza factory

in Bangladesh in 2013 focused attention

on the problems created by the demand for

cheap clothes. Since then, many consumers

have been attempting to be more responsible

about the clothes they purchase.

Launched in 2009, sustainable fashion

initiatives Greenshowroom and Ethical

Fashion Show Berlin help designers to spread

the message of sustainable style. The fairs

began with just 16 labels and now show over

120. ‘Today, there is an enormous interest

in eco-fashion from all sides, including

consumers, press, politicians, stakeholders,

designers and companies,’ says

Greenshowroom founder Magdalena Schafrin.

Placing their ethical or eco standards

upfront isn’t how the new sustainable designers

like to work – the sustainable aspect is built

into the garments, naturally and seamlessly.

Designers promote the quality of their

materials, the elegance of their designs and

the originality of their collections – which all

just happen to be sustainable. ‘We don’t

push the sustainable aspect,’ says de Hillerin.

‘We want people to buy pieces because they

look and feel good. If we treat sustainability

in this way, it normalises sustainable fashion.’

Brands such as Folkdays build

sustainability into their ofer through ethical

sourcing. The Folkdays team works with

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Above (clockwise from lef): Folkdays golden leaves earrings; luxaa autumn/winter 2014/15; Folkdays ikat weaver in cambodia; Folkdays cushion cover

specialist craftspeople in developing countries

to bring their high-quality creations to the

European market. But this is no charity project

– Folkdays’ luxurious products include the

softest blankets from Bolivia and Peru, the

best cashmere from Kashmir and Nepal, silver

jewellery made in Thai villages for generations

and ikat patterns made by expert weavers

in Cambodia. Each product is made using

indigenous materials and natural colours,

and comes with fascinating provenance.

‘There’s a strong movement towards

things that have history and meaning,’ says

Lisa Jaspers, co-founder of Folkdays. ‘More

people want originality, to feel like they’re

not wearing the same as everyone else,

and handicrafts are original by defnition.’

SHOP | 47

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Sustainable fashion’s sense of originality

is not just rooted in traditional skills but is

also about innovative approaches to clothes.

Berlin-based label Luxaa uses high-tech

fabrics such as Tyvek (which is 100%

recyclable) to create a very modern kind of

eco-luxe. ‘Innovative materials and techniques,

combined with sustainability, functionality

and longevity, are my greatest inspiration,’ says

Luxaa founder and designer Anne Trautwein.

The niche eco-brands coming out of Germany

today are revealing a new kind of luxury – one

based not on big brand names or ‘It’ bags, but

on provenance, quality and conscience. ‘For

a lot of people, luxury is increasingly about

products made in good conditions, with great

craftsmanship,’ says de Hillerin. Trautwein

adds that people are now buying ‘fewer, better

things’ and expect their purchases to be

beautiful, great quality and sustainable. She

believes that the rise of conscious consumption

means that ‘sustainable luxury products

are increasingly becoming status symbols.’

The impact of green and ethical designers

goes beyond their own stores and customers –

they’re also showing big brands how sustainable

fashion can be done stylishly and luxuriously.

Schafrin notes the growing infuence of

sustainable designers on mainstream fashion.

‘The change is visible in the conventional

fashion labels implementing serious sustainability

initiatives or the fact that nearly all corporations

nowadays have CSR departments. All in all,

eco fashion is on a path towards the mass

market – which is a great achievement.’

isabelldehillerin.com, folkdays.com, luxaa.de

Ethical designers are showing big brands that sustainable fashion can be stylish and luxurious

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Munich-based Oska has gone from strength to strength thanks to its refreshing approach to womenswear.

Josh Sims talks to founder Helmut Bayer about his recipe for success

The

Cool

New

50 | FEATURES

Above (from lef): Oska founder Helmut Bayer; the brand’s autumn/winter 2014/15 collection (also shown on previous page)

It is a €25m business with some 70 stores

around the world. Yet German clothing

company Oska fies decidedly under the radar,

having won a cult following among women

to whom most of the fashion world pays

little regard. ‘I’d say our average customer is

50 upwards – and when you’re that age it’s

not easy to fnd beautiful clothes that don’t

make you look silly, ancient or too young,’

says Helmut Bayer, who founded Oska in

1997 with a couple of partners (long since

bought out) and who now runs the company,

with colleague Stefanie Schmitz as designer.

‘That puts us in a particular niche.’

It’s one Bayer has been careful to cultivate,

perhaps chiefy through a close understanding

of his customer: the newly liberated late

middle-aged woman, free of children,

perhaps, Bayer half-jokes, divorced and free

of husbands, reborn and ‘ready to start a new

life’, as he puts it. ‘I’ve seen that pattern with

women I know closely over and over. Women

go through far more fundamental changes in

their lives than men, and they get a very clear

idea about what they want in life.’

And, in seems, in the way they dress.

No Oska garment, for example, has any exterior

branding. ‘You might love it when you’re young

– look at Abercrombie & Fitch – but when you

get to a certain age you don’t want to buy into

a brand but to express your own personality,’

says Bayer. ‘The older you get, the more

individual you get, the more opinionated you

get.’ Similarly, seasonal shifts in style are not

what it’s about either. If you want catwalk

fashion, go elsewhere: each season at Oska is,

as Bayer puts it, ‘not a new book but a new

chapter for the on-going book’.

Each collection is based frst and foremost

on fabrics: their colour, texture and drape.

Oska works closely with Pro Len, its main

manufacturer in Prostejov in the Czech

Republic; not only does the region have its own

textiles heritage, but its position allows it to

source materials that manufacturers in other

parts of Europe struggle to fnd, especially

high-quality leather, hemp and silk. Oska also

has its own dedicated dyeing works there, which

allows for complex garment-dyeing (resulting

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52 | FEATURES

time) and makes what it does very hard to copy.

Consequently, Bayer concedes, Oska’s are not

the cheapest of clothes – but, he implies, you

get what you pay for.

Certainly, although Bayer insists his

Munich-based company is a fashion business,

much of Oska’s approach seems to cut

against the usual industry grain. ‘It’s quite

an old-fashioned approach to making clothes,

I suppose, and certainly very unlike the high-

street volume brands of today,’ says the one-

time fashion sales agency rep, who started the

company because he’d grown despondent over

the poor quality of the clothing he was expected

to sell. ‘Each collection just grows out of the

fabric. Really, the power in the fashion world

lies with fabric manufacturers, not designers.

You don’t get quality clothing out of bad fabric

any more than you get a quality car out of bad

steel. The fabric is crucial to how a garment can

be cut, how it washes, how it ages. If the clothes

are German in any sense, it’s in the emphasis

on quality and reliability.’

Bayer also likes his clothing to last from

the standpoint of both ethics (‘I couldn’t

produce in Bangladesh, for example – I couldn’t

live with myself,’ he says) and sustainability,

although it is not something he often stresses.

‘Buying “green” is only moving forward a little.

The bottom line is that actually we should

just buy less. We shouldn’t buy it at all. But

who wants to hear that? And it’s not great for

business either,’ he laughs.

And business is good: although he would

like to double turnover in the next fve years,

as it would make Oska’s necessarily high

development and prototyping costs easier

to absorb, he does expect growth of around

50%, which seems a comfortable aim for

such a smartly targeted company. In the

circumstances, one wonders why Bayer hasn’t

tried his successful formula on menswear,

too, beyond the extant capsule collection.

After all, that was the original idea, back when

the company started out being called Oskar.

‘We’ve tried a bit but it doesn’t work as well,’

he says. ‘Men at the same stage in their lives

tend to want very simple designs, to stick

with what they know and buy the same thing

over and over. I’m like that – and I’m in the

fashion business.’

oska.com

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Above (from top): Oska store, munich; Oska designer stefanie schmitz

54 | F E AT U R E S

German porcelain has always been innovative and the country’s top brands remain world leaders, as Stephen Doig discovers

Breakingthe

Mould

Johann Friedrich Böttger is a name that resounds in the world of European porcelain; many sources point to Böttger as the father of contemporary porcelain. It was in the 1700s that the German chemist began experimenting to determine how the material, whose manufacturing process was a closely guarded secret in its native China and Japan, was made. The Meissen company, founded in the city of the same name in 1710, enjoyed the fruits of his labour when it established a business around a product that would become a major German export.

95

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56 | FEATURES

Above (from top): Meissen porcelain is painted by hand; Meissen Couture Grace foral-embellished dress

German heritage porcelain companies such as Meissen today offer sleek, modern ranges in vivid colours and finishes

Böttger’s legacy can be explored in

Frankfurt’s Porzellan Museum, a section

of the extensive Historisches Museum, but

the city also ofers enticing opportunities to

invest in pieces for the home that are as ftting

in a 21st-century environment as they were

in the homes of the Habsburgs.

It’s perhaps ftting that Meissen’s insignia

shows crossed swords, such was the label’s

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strellson.com

StrellSon Store, Skyline plaza,

europa-allee 6, FrankFurt

58 | FEATURES

Above (clockwise from lef): Nymphenburg Mezzetino Commedia dell’Arte fgurine in collaboration with Vivienne Westwood; the brand’s water-powered factory; Nymphenburg Julia Commedia dell’Arte fgurine in collaboration with Christian Lacroix; Nymphenburg kiln

The 21st-century collections from Nymphenburg feature collaborations with star designers alongside traditional skills and artistry

an exacting training programme ensures that

Meissen’s craftspeople work to the highest

standards in their modelling and painting, and

are trained for three years. Meissen’s artisans

devote themselves to pushing the boundaries

of porcelain craft, producing intricate detailing

and richly decorative painting on everything

from tableware to fgurines.

Today’s Meissen oferings have expanded

to encompass collaborations with contemporary

artists, as well as sleek modern ranges and

vivid colour tones and fnishes; politely dainty

porcelain tea sets have been superseded

by gleaming metallic rainbow hues and

architectural lines. In keeping with the label’s

focus on innovation and keeping ahead of the

curve, the house launched a clothing range

last year, under the directorship of Frida

Weyer– the same craft and attention to detail

that applies to Meissen’s porcelain is carried

into the clothing range.

As befts a label whose headquarters are

next door to Munich’s Nymphenburg palace,

Nymphenburg porcelain’s royal connections are

integral to the brand’s identity. Nymphenburg

SHOP | 59

was founded by the Bavarian crown in 1747,

and a strong sense of the past remains essential

to the brand’s operation today. For example,

the equipment in the Nymphenburg factory

is powered by water from the estate, all pieces

are shaped on a potter’s wheel or cast by hand,

and the process of handpainting, decorating

and glazing is painstaking. An original piece of

Nymphenburg porcelain can be distinguished

by the brand’s crest and coat of arms.

While the original skills and artistry of

Nymphenburg remain intact, the company

has moved with the times to include innovative

new ranges and a roster of all-star collaborators

includes Karl Lagerfeld, Miuccia Prada and

Vivienne Westwood. The brand hasn’t been

precious about breathing new life into its pieces,

from the quirky Animal Bowls range, where

3D creatures roam across plates and dishes,

to porcelain skulls decorated with insects and

fowers – so long-standing technique and slick

design can sit side-by-side on your shelves

meissen.com,

nymphenburg.com

globalblue.com

60 | EXPER IENCE

Table TalkFrankfurt’s fnest restaurants

ofer menus that embrace an array

of infuences, distinctive dining

rooms and exemplary levels of

service. Verity Hogan peruses the

menus of some of the city’s best

Frankfurt’s cosmopolitan reputation has

helped the city create a suitably eclectic

restaurant scene. this is not a new development

for Germany. German cuisine is characterised

by its heartiness and emphasis on meat and

potatoes, and there is a growing interest in

organic food across the country, but Germany

has always had a varied and contrasting

national cuisine, with each region boasting

its own specialities. South-west Germany

has long been infuenced by French cuisine

while traditional dishes such as sauerkraut

are prepared slightly diferently in this area.

Such diverse infuences, combined with

the tastes and favours brought by the seven

million Frankfurt residents who originate

from outside Germany, have had a profound

impact on Frankfurt’s restaurant scene. the

eateries located here combine international

favours with traditional German ingredients

and also ofer engaging interiors and

intriguing concepts.

SHOP | 61

E m m a m E t z l E r

Emma metzler is set in

the grounds of Frankfurt’s

museum für angewandte

Kunst (museum of applied

art) and this artistic location

is refected in both its décor

and its beautifully presented

cuisine. the restaurant

resembles a blank canvas,

with white walls and picture

windows opening out onto

the well-maintained garden.

the menu is seasonal but

broadly based on French and

south-west German cuisine;

dishes might include Scottish

salmon with a pineapple

and cucumber relish and

tarragon cream, or a rib-eye

steak served with parmesan

potatoes, green asparagus

and Béarnaise sauce.

Emma Metzler,

metzlerpark,

Schaumainkai 17,

60594 Frankfurt,

+49 (0)69 6199 5906,

emma-metzler.com

Leading WomensWear Brands and CoLLeCtions

FrankFurt/main ZeiL 100

Monday Through Thursday 10 aM - 8 pM Friday Through saTurday 10 aM - 9 pM

suLZBaCh/taunus main-taunus-Zentrum

Monday Through Wednesday 9.30 aM - 8 pM Thursday Through saTurday 9.30 aM - 10 pM

EXPER IENCE | 63

globalblue.com

S u r f ’ n T u r f

An authentic American steakhouse in the heart

of frankfurt, Surf’n Turf reputedly serves the

best steak in Germany. Various juicy and tender

cuts are available, from a classic new York strip

steak to a porterhouse for two. The restaurant’s

dining room refects its relaxed atmosphere

with intimate low lighting, wood panelling

and cabinets flled with wine; note the antlers

providing unusual design accents throughout.

This convivial setting, combined with a well-

edited, delicious menu has attracted a loyal

following among locals and visitors to the city.

Surf’n Turf, Grüneburgweg 95,

60323 frankfurt, +49 (0)69 722122,

mook-group.de/surfnturf

M A x i e e i S e n

Located in one of the city’s most creative

districts, Maxie eisen is named after a 1920s

gangster and serves a menu based around

traditional Jewish cuisine. Pastrami is the

signature dish: American beef brisket cured

with mustard, crushed peppercorns, coriander

seeds and garlic. The range of sides is equally

appealing; choose between matzo ball soup,

herring with horseradish and home-cooked

rosemary french fries. The restaurant’s dining

room is similarly distinctive, featuring claret

and blue walls, accents of bronze stainless steel

and furniture by french designer Jean Prouvé.

Maxie Eisen,

Münchener Strasse 18,

60329 frankfurt,

+49 (0)69 7675 8362,

maxie-eisen.de

M A x o n o n e

Despite its gourmet reputation, Max on one

has a surprisingly relaxed atmosphere to

accompany its fne cuisine. The restaurant’s

menu combines expert culinary skills with

the world’s fnest produce to create dishes

such as suckling pig with pearl barley, celery

and beetroot, and a classic steak tartare. The

open kitchen provides diners with additional

entertainment, while those looking for a more

leisurely experience can choose to dine on the

sofa seating in the lounge.

Max on One,

Jumeirah Hotel, Thurn-und-Taxis-Platz 2,

60313 frankfurt, +49 (0)69 2972 37198,

jumeirah.com

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WertheimVillage.com

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With up to 60% off* and tax-free shopping.

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© Wertheim Village 2014 *the former recommended retail price. †Offer valid in participating boutiques.

Guide

GU I DE | 65

SNAP OF THE CITY

Nihicipi enecto ea alignat inctiorio endia et

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Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Frankfurt with

a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from the coolest concept stores to

the city’s must-see museums. Start with SHOP’s highlights before delving

deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For further

helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/frankfurt.

A GlIMPSE OF FRANKFURT

Frankfurt’s cosmopolitan skyscrapers and bustling fnancial institutions provide an intriguing contrast to the city’s more historic buildings

globalblue.com

66 | GUIDE

Frankfurt

TAUNUSSTRASSE

UNTERMAIN

KAI

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MAINZER LANDSTRASSE

K

AISERSTRASSE

BOCKENHEIMER LANDSTRASSE

GUTLEUTSTRASSE

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WILHELM-LEUSCHNER-STRASSE

Continental

Le Meridien

Excelsior

Monopol

Interconti Hotel

Frankfur tIntercontinental

National Hotel

Colour Hotel

Manhatan Hotel

Atlantic Hotel

Savoy Hotel

Roomers Design Hotel

SILVER TOWER

OLD OPERA

TAUNUSANLAGE

FRANKFURTMAIN STATION

ALTE OPER

WESTEND1 The Listener

Discover a carefully edited selection of the world’s

most sought-after designer brands at The Listener

concept store.

Stephanstrasse 1,

60313 Frankfurt,

+49 (0)69 2100 8000,

thelistener.de

featured on page 68

2 Maxie Eisen

Be sure to try the traditional pastrami, herring with

horseradish and home-cooked rosemary French fries

on the menu at Jewish-themed eatery Maxie Eisen.

Münchener Strasse 18,

60329 Frankfurt,

+49 (0)69 7675 8362,

maxie-eisen.de

featured on page 63

3 Oska

Visit Oska’s Frankfurt boutique to invest in long-

lasting, timeless clothing made from the fnest

available fabrics.

Oppenheimer Landstrasse 34,

60596 Frankfurt,

+49 (0)69 6605 5099,

oska-frankfurt.de

featured on page 48

4 Biegel

The modern jewellery on offer at the Biegel boutique

is crafted from a range of precious metals and

materials that include gemstones and diamonds.

Börsenplatz 13-15,

60313 Frankfurt,

+49 (0)69 285908,

biegel.biz

featured on page 40

5 Skagen

Danish design is internationally acclaimed and

Skagen’s newly opened store brings its simple

yet functional aesthetic to Frankfurt.

MyZeil, Zeil 106,

60313 Frankfurt,

+49 (0)69 2097 6961,

skagen.com

featured on page 36

SHOP’S HIGHLIGHTS

HotelU-BahnTrain StationShopping Centre/Mall

page

68

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SHOP | 67

SCHAUMAINKAI

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Hilton

The WestinGrand

Jumeirah

Hotel Neue Kräme

Spenderhaus Hotel

Hotel am Dom

Hotel Main Plaza

Hotel Fleming Deluxe

Turmhotel

NH Frankfur tCit y-Hotel

Villa Orange

COMMERZBANK

GOETHE HAUS

ST. PAUL'S CHURCH

RÖMER TOWN HALL

FRANKFURT CATHEDRAL

ST. CATHERINE’S CHURCH

LOKALBAHNHOF

WILLY-BRAND PLATZ

DOM / RÖMER

KONSTABLERWACHE

MERIANPLATZ

ESCHENHEIMER TOR

HAUPTWACHE

Place Of Interest Tourist Information

page

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68 | GUIDE

Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer

Am Hauptbahnhof, Kaiserstrasse & Rossmarkt

NIDDASTRASSE

NIDDASTRASSE

NIEDENAU

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Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof

5K APOTHEKE ●

TCHIBO ●DROGERIE &

PARFÜMERIE LEHR ●

HERMES-APOTHEKE ●

ROSSMANN ●

BEATE UHSE ●APOLLO-OPTIK ●

DER TROCKENRASIERER ●

DAVID NO 10 ●

● C.W. ENGELS

● PREET JEWELLERS

● MOBILE PHONE HOUSE

● DM

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Villa Kennedy

Shopping Centre/Mall Hotel

1. The Listener

The Listener’s highly selective approach to product buying has

helped to produce a range with universally high standards of

design and workmanship. A mix of avant-garde international

labels flls the space; the range includes pieces by Comme

des Garçons, Opening Ceremony, Folk, APC and Nudie Jeans.

The store’s interior is as distinctive as its collection, featuring

patterned cement tiles, steel and warm wood accents and a

striking copper-coated counter.

The Listener,

Stephanstrasse 1, 60313 Frankfurt,

+49 (0)69 2100 8000,

thelistener.de

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1

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● SPORT ARENA● DIRK ROSSMANN

● PLANET SPORTS● GODIVA

● CALIDA● URBAN OUTFITTERS

● SILBER STUDIO● FIELMANN

● TRAVEL & BUSINESS● BETTY BARCLAY

● WELLENSTEYN SHOP● BASLER

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DIE ROSEN APOTHEKE ●

CDS ●

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Featured In This IssueTrain Station Cafè

2. 2nd Home

If you’re seeking design inspiration, look no further than

Frankfurt’s 2nd Home. The store is designed to look like a

city apartment, separated into different rooms. Each room

showcases a selection of furniture, lighting and accessories

as well as a well-edited range of fashion, art and jewellery.

2nd Home, Vogelsbergstrasse 38,

60316 Frankfurt,

+49 (0)69 4056 4842,

2nd-home.net

3. Arizona-Galerie

One of Frankfurt’s more unusual stores, Arizona-Galerie offers

an eclectic selection of Native American jewellery, handicrafts

and moccasins. The range includes more than 1,000 rings,

earrings and necklaces and over 500 bracelets and pendants,

made from sterling silver, precious stones and leather.

Arizona-Galerie,

Grosse Bockenheimer Strasse 37,

60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 287379,

arizona-galerie.de


3

P.37

70 | GUIDE

Zeil, Neue Kräme, Hasengasse & Braubachstrasse

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Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer Shopping Centre/Mall Department Store

SELECTED STORES

IN ZEIL GALERIE:

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p.36

FRANKFURT: KAISERSTRASSE 9

P. +49 (0)89.211 010

WWW.BETTENRID.DE

YOUR SPECIALIST FOR RELAXING SLEEP

AND CREATIVE HOME DECORATING IDEAS.

WELCOME TO BETTENRID

72 | GUIDE

Berliner Strasse & Römerberg

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Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer Featured In This Issue

1. Museum für Moderne Kunst

Despite being a relative newcomer in the international modern

art world, MMK has already made a profound impact thanks to

its diverse collection. More than 4,500 works are on display,

all of which have been produced since the 1960s. Expect the

museum’s 40 rooms to feature pieces by Lichtenstein, Warhol,

Cy Twombly and Francis Bacon.

MMK Museum für Moderne Kunst,

Domstrasse 10, 60311 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 2123 0447,

mmk-frankfurt.de

2. Schirn Kunsthalle

The leading exhibition gallery in Frankfurt, Schirn plays host

to shows on a wide variety of themes alongside retrospectives

of individual artists. Past exhibitions have highlighted the work

of Wassily Kandinsky, Henri Matisse and Peter Doig while

upcoming exhibitions include an in-depth look at Andreas

Schulze and Helene Schjerfbeck as well as a show dedicated

to German pop art.

Schirn Kunsthalle,

Römerberg, 60311 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 299 8820,

schirn.de

3. Städel Museum

Founded in 1815, Städel Museum is one of Germany’s oldest

art museums. Its vast collection provides a comprehensive

overview of the last 700 years of art history, featuring works

from the early 14th century to the present day. Collection

highlights include pieces by Botticelli, Rembrandt, Vermeer,

Matisse and Klee.

Städel Museum,

Schaumainkai 63, 60596 Frankfurt,

+49 (0)69 605 0980,

staedelmuseum.de

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MEISSEN COUTURE® BOUTIqUE FRaNkFURT · OpERNplaTz 4 · TElEFON: +49 69 92020575

74 | GUIDE

Grosse Bockenheimer Strasse & Biebergasse

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● FÜLLHALTER HAIZMANN

● GOLF HOUSE MEGA STORE

● FEILER

● SCHÖFFEL-LOWA-SPORTARTIKEL

● LOREY J. G. & SOHN NACHF.● DOUGLAS● DESSOUS LEMLER● PALM TOBACCO● BODY SHOP● APOTHEKE AN DER HAUPTWACHE● MEPHISTO● WMF

VANILLA DER ● SCHUHLADEN

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Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer Featured In This Issue

P.30

P.34

SHOP | 75

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O ●

Rathenau-platz

An derHauptwache

● L

AU

REL

1. Picard

Family-owned leather company Picard has been crafting

high-quality bags since 1920 and has become known for

producing high-end products at surprisingly affordable prices.

The company retains its heritage appeal yet has also adapted

to meet modern demands, extending its range to include

luggage and briefcases as well as creating a premium Made in

Germany collection. Creative types are sure to love the brand’s

regular collaborations with art and cultural organisations –

guaranteed to produce distinctive designs.

Picard, Goethestrasse 14,

60313 Frankfurt,

+49 (0)69 296831,

picard-lederwaren.de

2. Laurèl

Form-fattering cuts, bold prints and vibrant colour palettes

ensure that Laurèl’s womenswear collections always stand

out from the crowd. Head designer Elisabeth Schwaiger

specialises in modern classics, creating pieces that are

feminine and casual enough to work in any urban environment.

Luxury pervades the collections and even the most relaxed

garments feature high-quality materials; expect pieces

incorporating leather, jersey and silk to feature throughout

the collection.

Laurèl,

Kleine Bockenheimer Strasse 18A, 60313 Frankfurt,

+49 (0)69 1337 6390,

laurel.de

3. Charlotte Ehinger-Schwarz

The Charlotte Ehinger-Schwarz brand has more than 135

years of experience in crafting fne jewellery, yet despite this

heritage, its collections are strikingly contemporary. Pieces are

designed to be timeless so they can be passed down through

the generations, and are crafted from high-end materials such

as silver, gold, platinum and pearls. Customise your Charlotte

piece by making use of the range’s interchangeable designs –

every item can be taken apart and reassembled as you wish.

Charlotte Ehinger-Schwarz,

Goethestrasse 18, 60313 Frankfurt,

+49 (0)69 9291 9182,

charlotte.de

BESt ShoPS on GoEthEStraSSE1

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76 | GUIDE

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Outletcity Metzingen,

Reutlinger Strasse 63,

72555 Metzingen,

+49 (0)7123 925326,

outletcity.com

Opening times

Monday-Friday:

10am-8pm

Saturday: 9am-8pm

(Hugo Boss 8am-8pm)

Outletcity Metzingen

PeRFect Day

12pm

take a break at the

Keim bakery to enjoy

cofee and cake or a

freshly made sandwich.

6pm

end your trip at

hard-wearing luggage

specialist Samsonite.

10am

Start your day perusing

the sportswear collection

on ofer at Peak

Performance; the label

is known for combining

functionality and style.

2pm

Hugo Boss collections

strike the perfect

balance between

fashion and function.

HOW tOGet tHeRe

enter Reutlinger Strasse

63, 72555 Metzingen

on your satellite

navigation system.

take the a5 out of

Frankfurt before joining

the a8 to Metzingen.

take the exit toward

Metzingen (B312)

and take the L378a

to Reutlinger Strasse.

Outletcity Metzingen is

clearly signposted when

you arrive in the town.

4pm

Diane von Furstenberg

produces pieces that

radiate elegance –

the printed wrap dress is

a wardrobe classic.

SHOP | 77

Zweibrücken

The Style Outlets,

Londoner Bogen 10-90,

66842 Zweibrücken,

+49 (0)6332 99390,

thestyleoutlets.com

Opening times

Monday-Saturday:

10am-7pm

Sundays and public

holidays: closed

Zweibrücken The Style Outlets

10am

Start your day by

admiring the high

quality and sophisticated

craftsmanship displayed

by Italian label Cerruti.

12pm

enjoy a traditional

German meal made

from the freshest

available produce at

La Place Restaurant.

3pm

With its selection of high

quality tableware, gifts

and lifestyle accessories,

Villeroy & Boch is the

perfect place to visit if

you’re seeking elegant

homeware. Opt for

the classica range for

timeless tableware.

2pm

Petit Bateau’s

childrenswear collections

are sure to brighten up

your afternoon with

their whimsical designs

and youthful take on

French fashion. 5pm

end your day at footwear

boutique Peter Kaiser.

the designer is known

for combining heritage

manufacturing with

contemporary design.

expect a diverse

collection incorporating

fne materials such as

high-quality leather,

soft suede and the most

prestigious fabrics.

HOW tOGet tHeRe

By train

trains run from

Saarbrücken to

Zweibrücken station.

Visitors can then catch a

bus to the Style Outlets.

By bus

Buses run from

Zweibrücken to the

Style Outlets every

hour from Monday

to Saturday.

By car

From Frankfurt, take

the a8 motorway and

then exit 34, which is

signposted to the airport.

the journey takes

around 90 minutes.

PeRFect Day

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Wertheim Village

Wertheim Village, just 40 minutes from

frankfurt city centre, is perfectly located

for locals and international visitors alike.

the Village’s design refects its tranquil

surroundings, with traditional scallop-

tiled roofng and turrets that echo nearby

vineyard-clad halls and local villages.

the Village plays host to more than 110

designer boutiques from both German and

international labels, all of which ofer up to

60% savings on normal retail prices.

Wertheim Village,

almosenberg, 97887 Wertheim,

+49 (0)9342 919 9100,

wertheimvillage.com,

chicoutletshopping.com

Opening times

Monday-Saturday: 10am-8pm

Sundays and public holidays: closed

for special opening times please visit

the website

Five-star services

The village ofers a range of VIP

services including:

• free Wifi

• Dog kennels

• a personal shopper (on request)

• tourist information

• a children’s playground

Shopping Packages

Various packages are available at the

Village. Packages can be booked via

the Village’s website and services

can include:

• return tickets from central frankfurt

to the village on the Shopping

express® luxury coach

• a €25 Wertheim Village Shopping

card to be spent at a boutique of your

choice at the Village

• an exclusive gift

• Lunch with small soft drink at

La Piazza restaurant at the Village

DON’t MiSS…

SHOP | 79

Perfect Day

Verity Hogan, SHOP’s

city guide and lifestyle

editor, describes

her perfect day at

Wertheim Village

11am

Lagerfeld’s boutique

ofers the complete

ready-to-wear men’s

collection and range of

accessories, all infused

with Karl Lagerfeld’s

signature style.

1pm

Stop for lunch at Prime.

the restaurant serves

a range of high-quality

dishes including burgers,

fresh salads and daily

specials, served in an

urban-chic environment.

3pm

Steif’s trademark

ear button makes its

high-quality teddy bears

instantly recognisable.

the Steif range also

includes dogs, cats

and pigs.

6pm

end your day

by admiring the

craftsmanship displayed

in Bally’s exquisite

leather goods collection.

Pieces ofer the highest

quality as well as

contemporary styling.

HOW tOGet tHere

By car

from frankfurt head

to Würzberg on the

a3. take exit 66

signposted Wertheim/

Lengfurt. the drive

takes approximately 50

minutes from frankfurt

city centre.

By train

regular trains run to

Wertheim town from

frankfurt’s central

station, Nuremberg

and Würzberg. then

take the free shuttle

bus to Wertheim

Village from Monday

to Saturday. collect

your ticket from the

tourist information ofce

in Wertheim town.

By Shopping Express

the Shopping express®

luxury coach service

takes visitors from

frankfurt to Wertheim

Village and back,

departing from the city’s

main train station, 20B,

bus stops 7-9, from

Monday to Saturday.

for further information

and to book, visit

chicoutletshopping.com.

10am

Start your day at

German label Drykorn.

the brand is known for

setting the trends; expect

bright colours, bold

prints and a fnish of the

highest quality.

80 | GUIDE

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INSIDER TIP

Check out the FRA Airport

app to fnd out about

fight times, shopping

opportunities and parking

facilities before you travel.

Download it free by

scanning the QR code

Use your smartphone’s QR code reader to link to the helpful websites

below when on the go

1 42 53 6

1. Regional Tourist Ofce

Tourismus + Congress GmbH

Kaiserstrasse 56

60329 Frankfurt


2. Federal Foreign Ofce

Switchboard (24-hour

service): +49 (0)30 18170

Help Desk (Mon-Fri: 9am-

3pm): +49 (0)30 1817 2000

3. Transportation Maps

For public transport

timetables and tickets head

to rmv.de or mobil.rmv.de/

mobile/portal; alternatively

you can scan the QR code

4. Deutsche Bahn

If you intend to travel by train

go to the bahn.de website or

scan the QR code for more

information

5. Taxi

To fnd a local taxi, scan the QR

code or use the website taxi.de

6. Global Blue Online

For the most up-to-date

information on shops,

museums, galleries and

restaurants in Germany,

go to globalblue.com or

scan the QR code

EMERGENCY SERVICES

Emergency: 112

(ambulance and fre);

110 (police)

Doctor: +49 (0)116117

(emergency service, weekends

and public holidays)

Lost Or Stolen Cards:

+49 (0)116116

(immediate blocking of lost/

stolen debit/credit cards)

USEFUL PHRASES

Hello ∙ Hallo/Guten Tag

Thank you ∙ Danke schön

Please ∙ Bitte

I would like... ∙ Ich möchte...

Goodbye ∙ Auf Wiedersehen

How much is...? ∙ Wieviel

kostet...?

Can I have a receipt

please? ∙ Darf ich bitte eine

Quittung haben?

Essential Information

It’s more fun, when it’s tax-free!

Made in Germany

Life tastes great.

Grand Gourmet

Knife set 5 pieces

instead of 384,75* 289,–

*sum of the prices

Cookware set 4 pieces

instead of 496,95* 399,–

Premium OneCromargan®

WMF StoresFrankfurtwww.wmf.de/flialen

Schillerstraße 2, Tel. 069/282382

Kaiserstraße 15, Tel. 069/284474

Zeil 106, Tel. 069/13886872

82 | GUIDE

Eat

Discover Frankfurt’s

traditional cuisine in one

of the city’s rustic apple

wine bars. Grüne sosse

(green sauce), served

alongside apple wine in a

ribbed glass or stoneware

jug, is a speciality. See

The historical city centre around Römerberg features

magnifcent half-timbered homes.

Goethe-Haus, Grosser Hirschgraben 23- 25,

60311 Frankfurt,

+49 (0)69 138800,

goethehaus-frankfurt.de

Eat, See, Do

Tourismus + Congress

Frankfurt am Main,

Römerberg 27,

60311 Frankfurt,

+49 (0)69 2123 8800,


Do

Stroll down the Zeil,

Frankfurt’s most prestigious

shopping boulevard, home

to department stores and

specialist shops as well

as the enduringly popular

MyZeil shopping centre.

If you only have a short time to spend in Frankfurt, the city’s tourist board

has picked its top three attractions around the city.

globalblue.com

84 | GUIDE

Tifany & Co

Few women can resist the allure of

Tifany jewellery. Founded in New York

in 1837, Tifany is one of the world’s

most respected jewellery makers and has

always been at the forefront of design

developments. The Tifany design

team, committed to stunning, luxurious

jewellery, has created pioneering pieces

inspired by modern art and introduced

unusual precious metals and gems to

the range.

Dulce

A box of very good chocolates is always

welcome as a souvenir or gift. The Dulce

chocolate bar uses only 100% natural

ingredients to produce its range of mouth-

watering sweet treats. The company is

meticulous about sourcing the highest-

quality ingredients, such as Alphonso

mango puree from southern India and

Sicilian lemons, ensuring that all Dulce

chocolates, conserves, ice creams and

sorbets taste truly delicious.

FTC Cashmere

Beautiful cashmere is a winter wardrobe

staple, being both snug and stylish – and

ideal for staying comfortable on long

haul fights. FTC Cashmere designs

knitwear that’s not only well-made but

also ethically sourced. Company owners

Jutta and Andreas Knezovic work closely

with farmers to ensure the highest

environmental and ethical standards,

resulting in wonderful cashmere knits

that are a joy to wear.

After every great holiday comes the

fight home, but that doesn’t mean your

shopping trip should be over when you

reach the airport. At Frankfurt Airport,

you’ll fnd the best names in German

fashion and accessories. If you’re looking

for gifts, souvenirs or a new pair of

sunglasses from a label that you won’t

fnd at home, the airport’s boutiques

are sure to fll the gaps in your suitcase.

Frankfurt Airport also has an enticing

variety of food and drink options.

Frankfurt Airport

globalblue.com

ecco.com

ECCO Store Frankfurt – Palais Quart ier Frankfurt – Zei l 106–110 - +49 (0) 69 21935555ECCO Store Wiesbaden – Marktstrasse 17-19 - +49 (0) 611 34196434ECCO Store Mainz – Stadthausstrasse 6 - +49 (0) 6131 1434304ECCO Store Heidelberg – Hauptstrasse 65 - +49 (0) 6221 4185080ECCO Outlet Wertheim – Wertheim Vi l lage – Almosenberg - +49 (0) 9342 8593005ECCO Outlet Zweibrücken – Zweibrücken The Style Outlets – Londoner Bogen 10-90 +49 (0) 6332 4811982

SCANDINAVIAN DESIGN

for EVERYONE

86

9693 /

When you shop the world, shop tax free

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1. ShopWherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form and remember to keep your receipts.

Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 270,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts.

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Frankfurt Airport Terminal 2 Hall D, Level 3, Airside

Frankfurt Airport Terminal 1Hall B, Level 2, Landside & Airside

Hall AHall B

AC

B

Hall C

i i

To Terminal 1

E

1 22 77 66 88109

9131211

44 33 55

D

Key Refund Ofce details:

Frankfurt Airport:

Terminal 1, Level 2, Hall B,

Landside

Terminal 1, Level 2, Hall B,

afer security control

Terminal 2, Level 3, Hall D,

Landside

Terminal 2, Level 3, Hall D,


Terminal 2, Level 3, Hall A,


Landside

Check-In Area

Security Control

Global Blue Refund Ofce

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Airside

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Informationi

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Translations

89

Экологический тренд в Германии все активнее влияет на моду, вдохновляя дизайнеров на творческое соединение стиля и заботы об окружающей среде, - рассказывает Гвинет Холланд

Нишевые бренды Германии открывают новые перспективы развития роскошной моды: теперь во главе угла технологические новации, устойчивость, качество и внимание к народному мастерству. Все это весьма далеко от стереотипов об экологичной моде: никаких мешковатых силуэтов, дерюги или неуместного декора. Напротив, в основе нового эко-тренда в моде - инновационные ткани, проработанные аксессуары и изящные силуэты.

В Германии активно работает много сторонников зеленого потребления – специалисты по вторичному использованию и чистой энергии, энтузиасты справедливой торговли пропагандируют свои идеи по всей стране. При этом на модный мир этот

42: Sustainable Style

Идеальное Оформление

РусскИй ПеРевОдпроцесс начал влиять сравнительно недавно. «Сейчас в Германии, пожалуй, магазины органических продуктов не уступают по количеству обычным супермаркетам. Экологическая осознанность стала нормой, и вполне естественно, что модный мир не желает оставаться в стороне», - размышляет дизайнер Изабель де Хиллерин.

В то же время в Германии давно готов фундамент для продвижения ответственных идей в моде: это экологически чистые ткани. В 1970-е годы эко-пионеры Hessnatur, Disana и Engel основали Международный союз производителей натуральных тканей (International Verband der Naturtextilwirtschaf – IVN). Эта организация выработала и зафиксировала Мировой стандарт органического текстиля (GOTS), и теперь соответствующую отметку ставят на ярлыки, если одежда сшита из сертифицированного материала.

Эко-дизайнеры, конечно, работают далеко не первый год, просто они не всегда громко рекламируют свою деятельность. Но именно сейчас отмечается рост интереса к экологичному потреблению, и это обусловлено осознанием реальной стоимости дешевой и быстрой моды. Трагедия на фабрике Rana Plaza в Бангладеше в 2013 году привлекла внимание к проблемам, связанным с повышенным спросом на дешевые вещи. С тех пор многие покупатели пытаются более ответственно подходить к выбору одежды.

В 2009 году появились проекты Greenshowroom и Ethical Fashion Show Berlin, призванные помочь дизайнерам распространять принципы устойчивого стиля. Поначалу в этих ярмарках участвовало всего 16 брендов, а теперь их уже более 120. «Сегодня существует огромный интерес к эко-моде со всех сторон – покупателей, прессы, политиков, инвесторов, дизайнеров и компаний», - утверждает основатель Greenshowroom Магдалена Шафрин.

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90

Дизайнеры не очень любят выставлять напоказ свои этические принципы. Им больше по душе, когда эти аспекты органично встроены в их продукцию: качество материалов, элегантность моделей, оригинальность коллекций – и так уж случилось, что еще и устойчивость. «Мы не педалируем экологическую тему, - подчеркивает де Хиллерин. – Важно, чтобы люди покупали вещи из-за стиля и удобства. А когда мы представляем наши идеи в такой форме, то экологическая осознанность воспринимается практически как норма».

Бренд Folkday пошел по другому пути: для них устойчивость означает этичность в производстве. Команда марки сотрудничает с ремесленниками в развивающихся странах и привозит их работы на европейский рынок. Не стоит путать это с благотворительностью: под маркой Folkday могут продаваться исключительно качественные и роскошные вещи, как, например, мягкие одеяла из Боливии и Перу, прекрасный кашемир из Кашмира и Непала, серебряные украшения из деревень Таиланда и плетеные ткани икат из Камбоджи. Все это производится исключительно из местных материалов с использованием натуральных красителей.

Отдельное удовольствие – знакомиться с историей и происхождением каждого предмета. «Вещи со смыслом становятся все более популярными, - считает Лиза Джаспер, со-основатель Folkday. – Все больше людей хотят быть оригинальными и знать, что они носят не то же самое, что и все остальные. А ручное творчество – особенное по определению».

Эта неповторимость, присущая эко-моде, связана не только с традиционными ремеслами, но и с использованием инновационных подходов к производству. Например, берлинская марка Luxaa шьет свои вещи исключительно из высокотехнологичных тканей: тайвек, в частности, на 100% пригоден для переработки. И это соответствует созвучным времени представлениям об эко-роскоши: «Меня по-настоящему вдохновляют инновационные материалы

и техники, в сочетании с экологичностью, функциональностью и долговечностью», - делится основатель и дизайнер Luxaa Анне Траутвейн.

Нишевые эко-бренды Германии открывают новый вид роскошного потребления. И на этот раз дело не в громких названиях или It-bags, а в надежности, качестве и осознанности. «Для многих людей роскошь теперь связана с хорошими условиями производства и высочайшим стандартом качества», - говорит де Хиллерин. А Траутвейн, в свою очередь, заметила, что люди теперь покупают меньше вещей, но уделяют больше внимания их качеству. С этой точки зрения, важнее, чтобы покупки были красивыми, качественными и уместными с экологических позиций. По ее словам, рост осознанного потребления означает, что «эко-роскошь становится символом статуса».

Таким образом, сфера влияния «зеленых» дизайнеров простирается и за пределами собственных магазинов и общения со своими покупателями. Они успешно показывают крупным брендом, что устойчивая мода может ассоциироваться с хорошим вкусом и роскошью. Шафрин тоже отмечает влияние эко-дизайнеров на мейнстрим: «Эта перемена становится очевидна, когда известные лейблы начинают поддерживать экологические инициативы. Кроме того, почти все большие компании сегодня обзавелись отделом корпоративной ответственности. Так что эко-мода начала покорять масс-маркет, а значит, она на пути к большим победам».isabelldehillerin.com, folkdays.com, luxaa.de

Благодаря оригинальному подходу к созданию женской одежды мюнхенский бренд Oska приобрел широкую популярность. Джош Симс попытался узнать секрет успеха у основателя компании – Гельмута Баера

48: The New Cool

Король Антимоды

91

Немецкий бренд Oska насчитывает более 70 магазинов по всему миру, а его оценочная стоимость превышает 25 млн. евро. При этом политика компании в отношении выпускаемой продукции остается неизменной и ориентируется преимущественно на тех, кого модная индустрия обычно старается обойти стороной. «Я бы сказал, что средний возраст наших покупателей превышает 50 лет, а ведь это именно тот возраст, когда так непросто найти одежду, которая не выглядит глупо, старомодно или слишком вызывающе», – говорит Гельмут Баер. Компанию Oska он основал в сотрудничестве со своими партнерами в 1997 году, однако уже давно успел ее выкупить, и сейчас управляет ей вместе со своей коллегой дизайнером – Стефани Шмитц.

Глубокое понимание нужд покупателей позволило Баеру занять определенную нишу на рынке: его клиентки – женщины старше среднего возраста, не обремененные заботой о детях или муже, одним словом, свободные и «готовые начать новую жизнь, – шутит дизайнер. – Я очень часто видел

такой тип среди моих знакомых. В жизни женщин происходит довольно много фундаментальных перемен, намного больше, чем у мужчин, поэтому женщины всегда имеют четкое представление о том, чего они хотят».

Это заметно по тому как они одеваются. Одежда Oska, к примеру, не имеет наружных этикеток с названием бренда. «Вам может это нравится когда вы молодые – взгляниете на Abercrombie & Fitch, – но когда вы становитесь старше, вам хочется скорее не демонстрировать чей-то бренд, а выражать свою индивидуальность, – говорит Баер. – Чем больше возраст, тем сложнее ваша индивидуальность и тем выше требования». Точно так же дело обстоит и с сезонными изменениями в коллекциях. Если вы гонитесь за высокой модой, то найти ее не проблема. Что касается Oska, то каждый новый сезон здесь, как любит говорить Баер, «не новая книга, но новая глава одной большой книги».

Главным элементом каждой коллекции в первую очередь являются ткани во всем их разнообразии цвета, текстуры и драпировки. Oska тесно сотрудничает с фабрикой Pro Len, расположенной в чешском городе Простеёв. Этот регион всегда славился производством текстиля, к тому же удобное географическое положение позволяет с легкостью достать необходимое сырье, а именно качественную кожу, коноплю и шелк. Здесь же расположена красильная фабрика Oska, позволяющая осуществлять сложное окрашивание тканей, в результате чего оттенки получаются более насыщенными и долго не выцветают. Баер соглашается с тем, что одежда Oska не из дешевых, но, в то же время, это означает, что вы получите именно то, за что платите.

Хотя Баер и настаивает, что его компания работает в рамках модного бизнеса, тем не менее, фирменный подход похоже идет в разрез с определенными традициями индустрии. «Это довольно старомодный подход к созданию одежды, я полагаю, и, конечно он сильно отличается от политики современных модных брендов», – говорит дизайнер. Одно время

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Качество немецкого фарфора никогда не подлежало сомнению. Стивен Дойг убедился, что ведущие производители Германии остаются лидерами мирового уровня

История европейского фарфора тесно связана с именем Иоганн Фридрих Беттгер: именно этого химика, родом из Германии, многие источники считают отцом «хрупкого золота». В начале 18 века он начал проводить многочисленные эксперименты, стараясь вывести формулу этого материала, поскольку в Китае и Японии детали производственного процесса хранились в строжайшем секрете. Плоды его труда пожинала компания Meissen, основанная в городе Майсен в 1710 году. Все свое внимание она сосредоточила вокруг этого нового продукта, который вскоре стал одной из основных статей немецкого экспорта.

Наследие самого Беттгера можно рассмотреть во франкфуртском Музее фарфора (Porzellan Museum), подразделении Исторического музея. Но не отказывайте себе в удовольствие приобрести более современные образцы старинного искусства в качестве сувениров. Причем в магазинах Франкфурта можно найти как копии фарфоровой утвари из дома Габсбургов, так и вещи в духе 21 века.

Символично, что на эмблеме Meissen изображены скрещенные мечи: это напоминание о том, как тщательно компания защищала свой эксклюзивный метод производства. Серьезная программа

54: Breaking The Mould

Преображая традициюему пришлось работать представителем в агентстве по продаже модной одежды, качество которой оставляло желать лучшего, настолько, что он решил основать свое дело. «Каждая коллекция начинается с выбора ткани. На самом деле власть мира моды принадлежит не дизайнерам, а производителям ткани. Невозможно сделать качественную одежду из плохой ткани, так же как и нельзя собрать качественную машину из дешевой стали. Именно от ткани зависит то, как одежда будет сидеть, как будет стираться и как изнашиваться. А если речь идет о немецкой одежде, то качество и надежность должны быть бескомпромиссными».

Кроме того, принципиально важным для дизайнера являются такие понятия, как экологичность и этичность производства: «Я ни в коем случае не позволил бы себе размещать производство, например, в Бангладаше, – говорит он, – иначе я потерял бы к себе уважение». При этом дизайнер отмечает что «покупка экологичных вещей это лишь первый шаг. На самом деле нам нужно просто делать меньше покупок. А в идеале и вовсе ничего не покупать. Но кому это понравится? Да и бизнес от этого вряд ли станет прибыльнее», – улыбаясь, говорит Баер.

И все же бизнес идет не плохо. Хотя он и мечтает о том, чтобы удвоить прибыль в следующие пять лет, что позволило бы покрыть расходы на модернизацию и изготовление макетов, ожидаемое увеличение доходов на 50% уже является довольно солидной цифрой для такой компании. Многим даже может показаться странным почему Баер не применит свою успешную формулу к мужской одежде. Однако все не так просто, как кажется на первый взгляд. «Мы пытались начать выпускать мужскую линию, но позитивного результата не увидели, – говорит он. – Мужчины старшего возраста предпочитают носить максимально простые вещи и раз за разом покупают что-то одно, проверенное и хорошо им знакомое. Я и сам такой, хотя работаю в модном бизнесе».oska.com

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Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270,000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира.Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям.

1. В магазинеГде бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохораните чеки.

2. При выездеВозвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов.

Контакты:[email protected]+421 232 111 111Потратьте минимум €25 и сэкономьте до 14.5% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.

86: When You Shop The World,

Shop Tax Free

Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с tax free

подготовки мастеров и в наши дни гарантирует высочайшие стандарты лепки и росписи, а каждый сотрудник обязательно проходит трехлетнее обучение. А затем, уже в процессе работы, профессионалы Meissen стремятся постоянно расширять возможности своего ремесла. Это находит свое отражение и в изысканной отделке, и в богато декорированной росписи столовой посуды, фигурок и других произведений.

В творческих поисках Meissen не ограничивает себя и сотрудничает с современными художниками. В результате выходят стильные коллекции в духе 21 века с живой цветовой палитрой и интересной отделкой. Изысканные чайные сервизы, например, приобрели переливающиеся металлические оттенки и архитектурные прямые линии.

Следуя традиции опережать ожидания, этот фарфоровый дом в прошлом году выпустил первую коллекцию одежды. Ее дизайнеру Фриде Вейер удалось передать характерное для фарформа Meissen внимание к деталям.

Nymphenburg – еще один крупный игрок на этом поле. Он гордится королевским происхождением, и в этом смысле соседство ее штаб-квартиры с мюнхенским дворцом Нимфенбург символично.

Компания Nymphenburg была основана баварским королем в 1747 году, и любовь к истории прослеживается во всем, что она делает. Например, оборудование на фабрике до сих пор приводится в действие с помощью водяной тяги, а все произведения создаются на гончарном круге или вручную. Процесс росписи, декорирования и глазировки также не претерпел значительных изменений. Оригинальную вещь под маркой Nymphenburg легко узнать по характерной геральдической эмблеме.

Но при этом, даже если технологии, применяемые Nymphenburg, остаются неизменными, это не мешает компании идти в ногу со временем. Так, в ее ассортименте появляются коллекции в современном стиле, в том числе – в результате совместного творчества с Карлом Лагерфельдом, Миуччей Прада и Вивьенн Вествуд. Здесь

не боятся экспериментировать с классикой, отсюда необычные объемные изображения животных на тарелках и чашах в серии Animal Bowl или фарфоровые черепа, декорированные насекомыми и цветами. Все это - прекрасный образец того, как старинные ремесленные техники и актуальный дизайн могут уживаться прямо на ваших полках.meissen.com, nymphenburg.com

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美文翻译

德国成熟的绿色环保体系，推动时尚业将优雅姿态

与生态友好相结合。Gwyneth Holland报道

在德国，以工艺、创新、可持续与品质为本的小众品

牌，正在开创奢侈时尚界的新未来。这些新理念产

品与环保时装的刻板形象相去甚远——没有臃肿的

轮廓、麻布或者四处垂挂的小装饰。取而代之的是

以创新材质、精选配件与时髦线条著称的可持续时

尚。

德国有着悠久的绿色消费传统，从狂热的回收

者、清洁能源活动家到全国各地的公平贸易倡导者，

然而直到近期，该国的环保之风才刮到时尚界。“在

德国，有机食品店的数量几乎与超市同样多。可持续

发展如今已成为日常共识，自然它也开始影响时尚

界，”设计师Isabell de Hillerin表示。

当创新环保设计浮上水面之际，德国早

已在天然纺织品领域奠定了坚实基础。在

7 0年代，生态先驱He s s n a t u r、D i s a n a与

Enge l成立了I n t e r n a t i on a l Verba nd de r

Naturtextilwirtschaft（国际天然纺织行业协会

或IVN），致力于为面料制定全球有机纺织品标准

（GOTS），这个现今时常可见的标签。

环保设计师们已默默无闻地努力多年，但如

今可持续时尚获得的大部分关注，来自于人们对于

低价快时尚的实际成本的关注。在孟加拉国Rana

Plaza发生的工厂坍塌惨剧，让人们开始关注廉价服

饰需求所引发的问题。从那时起，众多消费者开始试

图为自己的服装购买行为负责。

创立于 2 0 0 9年的可持续时尚先驱项目

Greenshowroom与Eth ica l Fash ion Show

Berlin，致力于帮助设计师传播可持续时尚理念。

42: Sustainable Style

可持续时尚

该展览开始只有16个品牌参加，如今则超过120个。“

今天，社会各界都对绿色时尚投以极大关注，其中

包括消费者、媒体、政客、各利益相关者、设计师与

企业，”Greenshowroom项目的创始人Magdalena

Schafrin表示。

以自身的道德或环保标准马首是瞻，并非新一

代可持续设计师的工作方式——可持续性应被自然

地、天衣无缝地融入服饰中。设计师提高面料的品

质，设计的优雅性与产品系列的独创性——这一切

都是可持续的体现。“我们不强制推广可持续性，”de

Hillerin表示。“我们希望人们购买让他们看起来与

感觉良好的产品。如果我们能这样对待可持续性，

就能发展出普适的可持续时尚。”

Folkdays等品牌通过道德采购将可持续性融

入生产。Folkdays团队与发展中国家的职业工匠合

作，将高品质成品引入欧洲市场。然而这并非慈善项

目——Folkdays的奢华产品线包括来自玻利维亚和

秘鲁的软毯，克什米尔和尼泊尔的顶级羊绒，来自泰

国村庄传承数代的银饰，与柬埔寨专业编织者制造

的纱线扎染织物。每件产品都使用当地素材制成，

都有着自然的配色与迷人的原产地。

“追求富有历史与涵义的事物是一大趋

势，”Folkdays的联合创始人Lisa Jaspers指出。“越

来越多的人们开始追求独特性，为了让自己的着装

感觉上并不泯然众人，而手工艺制品天生就是独特

的。”

可持续时尚的独具匠心不只在于其植根于传统

技艺，同样也体现在制衣的创新手法。总部位于柏

林的品牌Luxaa采用高科技面料，如Tyvek（100%

可回收）创造出摩登之极的环保奢华。“将创新的

材质与技术，融入可持续性、功能性与耐久性，就

是我的最大志向，”Luxaa品牌创始人与设计师

Anne Trautwein表示。今日涌现的德国小众环保

品牌带来了一种新型的奢侈——其并不基于品牌

盛名或IT手袋，而是体现在产品的出处、品质与道

德性上。“对越来越多人而言，奢侈品就是在良好

的环境下，以伟大的工艺制成的产品，”Hillerin指

出。Trautwein补充道，人们现在买得“更少但更精”

，并期望买到的产品是漂亮、品质上乘与可持续利

用的。她坚信道德消费意识的崛起意味着“可持续奢

侈品将日益成为身份的象征”。

绿色与可持续设计师们已突破自家店铺与顾客

的界限——他们也在教导大品牌如何以时髦奢华的

手法打造可持续时尚。Schaffrin指出，可持续设计

师们对主流时尚的影响力越来越大。“这一变化显而

易见，传统时装品牌正认真推行可持续发展举措，而

几乎所有的企业如今都设有企业社会责任部门。总

而言之，生态时尚正走向大众市场——这是一项伟

大的成就。”

isabelldehillerin.com, folkdays.com, luxaa.de

95

48: The New Cool

酷感新趋势

装的极低品质感到沮丧。“我们的每个系列都是从面

料生发而来的。事实上，时尚界的驱动力就来自于面

料商，而并非设计师。就像低劣的钢材造不出高品质

的汽车，低品质的面料也生产不出高质量的衣服。

面料对衣服可被如何剪裁、如何清洗、如何耐久都是

至关重要的。如果将衣服与德国人相比较，那就是同

样强调质量与可靠性。”

Bayer同样也执意让自己的衣服符合道德标准

（“我不会选择在孟加拉国生产，譬如说——否则对

自己无法交代，”他表示）与可持续性，尽管这不是他

会时常突出的东西。“购买‘绿色’产品只是一点小进

步。根本上而言我们应该少买。我们压根就不应该

买。但谁愿意听到这些言论呢？这对于企业发展也

不是好事，”他笑着说。

幸而企业发展得不错：虽然他想在五年内实现

营业额翻倍，以此为Oska高速发展中的店铺复制成

本买单，但仍旧将年增长率定在50%左右，这对于这

样一家定位巧妙的公司而言似乎是个轻松的目标。

在这种情况下，人们或许不禁要问，为何Bayer还不

尝试将自己的成功模式用于男装，而不是局限于目

前的胶囊系列。毕竟，这是公司创始时定名Oskar的

初衷。“我们已经做了一些尝试但效果并不理想”他表

示。“同一年龄阶段的男性喜欢非常简单的设计，他

们会固执己见并反复购买同样的东西。我很喜欢这

点——而我正身处时装界。”

oska.com

德国瓷器长久以来总是走在创新的前端，该国的瓷

器品牌也始终保持着国际领先地位，Stephen Doig

报道

Johann Friedrich Böttger是一个在欧洲瓷器界响

当当的名字；各界人士都将Böttger视为当代瓷器之

父。1700年，德国化学家开始试验如何制作瓷器，须

知其制造过程在原产地中国与日本都是讳莫如深的

秘密。1710年成立于迈森的同名公司Meissen，受益

于当地的劳动力资源，建立起这项在日后成为德国

出口主力的事业。

在法兰克福的Porze l l an Museum可见到

Böttger留下的历史遗产，这是博物馆丰富藏品的一

部分，然而这座城市也同样为人们提供了投资瓷器

的诱人机会，这些瓷器摆放在21世纪装饰的家中，与

其陈列于哈布斯堡家族的住宅中同样合称。

Meissen品牌徽章中交叉的双剑，恰如其分地

代表着其对制作工艺的严守。时至今日，品牌仍有

一套严格的培训计划，确保Meissen的工匠们产品

造型和绘制中符合最高标准，并经过为期三年的训

54: Breaking The Mould

突破常规

总部位于慕尼黑的Oska以耳目一新的手法设计女

装，声势日益壮大。《SHOP》撰稿人Josh Sims向

品牌创始人Helmut Bayer讨教成功秘方

这是一家在全球拥有70间门店、市值2500万欧元

的企业。德国服装公司Oska毅然决然地在竞争中

求生存，并赢得了那些不被时尚界重视的女性群体

的芳心。“我想说我们顾客的平均年龄都在50岁以

上——当你到了那个年纪，穿既漂亮又看上去不那

么滑稽，古板或太年轻的衣服实在不是件容易的

事。”Helmut Bayer说，正是她于1997与几位合伙人

(很久之前已将其股份买断)创立了Oska，并在今日与

同僚设计师Stefanie Schmitz共同运营着公司。“这

也决定了我们只针对小众市场。”

这是Bayer一直在小心翼翼培育的市场，其主要

通过近距离了解他的客户：思想解放的新型中年妇

女，可能也没有孩子，Bayer半开玩笑地说，离婚的

和未婚的，脱胎换骨和“准备开始新生活的”，根据他

的原话。“我在熟悉的女性身上一次又一次地见过这

样的发展模式。相对于男性，女性在生命过程中往

往会经历更剧烈的变化，并且她们对于自己在生活

中追求什么有非常清晰的概念。”

并且这点从她们的着装中就可看出端倪。

没有一件O s k a服饰是贴有任何外外露标牌

的。“你年轻的时候可能会喜欢商标——看看

Abercrombie＆Fitch——但是当你到了一定年纪

之后，不会执着于某个品牌，而是更想要表达自己

的个性，”Bayer说。“人的年龄越大，就变得越有个

性，越有自己的主见。”同样的，时尚的季节性变化

也与此无关。如果你想追逐T台时尚，就去别处寻

找：Oska的每一季产品，如Bayer所言，“不是一本新

书，而是一部续写中的作品里的一个新篇章”。

品牌的每个系列都首先以面料为本：从颜色、质

地到垂坠程度。Oska与其捷克Prostejov的主要生

产商Pro Len紧密合作；该地区不仅有自己的纺织

传统，其地理位置也使其能搜寻到其他欧洲制造商

苦寻而不得的面料，尤其是高品质的皮革，麻料与丝

绸。Oska在那里也拥有自己的染色工坊，有能力进

行复杂的成衣染色（会产生更鲜艳丰富并随时间自

然褪去的色调），也使其很难被仿制。因此，Bayer

承认，Oska的定价并不便宜——但是，他指出，你所

得到的产品必定物有所值。

不难发现，尽管Bayer坚称自己位于慕尼黑的公

司是一家时尚企业，但他的很多做法都与行业标准

不符。“这是一种相当老派的制衣方式，我想，也与今

日的高街量产品牌大相径庭，”这位曾经的时尚机构

销售代表表示，他建立公司的原因是为自己销售服

globalblue.com

96

练。Meissen的工匠致力于突破瓷器工艺的界限，

将精致细节与繁复装饰赋予从餐具到人俑等各种产

品。

今日的Meissen产品线已扩张至包含当代艺术

家合作系列，以及时髦的摩登系列，并引入生动色

调与装饰工艺；朴素洁净的陶瓷茶具已被闪烁的彩

虹金属色调与建筑线条所取代。为保持品牌对创新

的专注，确保其走在时代前端，公司在去年推出了由

Frida Weyer领衔的时装线——Meissen瓷器对工

艺与细节的专注，同样被灌注到服装系列中。

作为总部毗邻慕尼黑宁芬堡宫的品牌，宁芬堡

瓷器与皇室的纽带是品牌不可或缺的组成部分。宁

芬堡皇家瓷器由巴伐利亚王室在1747年成立，对历

史的追溯仍是今日品牌运作的核心。例如，宁芬堡皇

家瓷器工厂中的设备都是由本地水力发电驱动，所

有产品都使用辘轳或手工成型，手绘、装饰与上釉的

过程无比细致。人们可通过品牌家徽与盾形纹章鉴

别出宁芬堡原产瓷器。

宁芬堡皇家瓷器的传统工艺与艺术性

始终不变，但公司同样与时并进，引入创新

系列并与一众明星合作推出产品，其中包括

Karl Lagerfeld、Miuccia Prada与Vivienne

Westwood。品牌不吝为产品注入新鲜活力，从碗碟

上布满3D动物形象的奇趣Animal Bowls系列，到

装饰着昆虫与花朵的瓷制人头骨——从而历久弥新

的工艺与时髦华丽的设计，可以携手出现在您的展

示柜中。

meissen.com,

nymphenburg.com

86: When You Shop The World,

Shop Tax Free

畅购全球，尊享退税

当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店消费时，

环球蓝联（Global Blue）购物退税服务（Tax Free

Shopping）为您节约购物开销。

每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联（Global

Blue）获得购物退税，您怎能错过？您要做的只

是寻找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联

（Global Blue）服务，然后遵循我们简单的退税

过程：

1. 消费购物

无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联退税表格

（Global Blue Tax Free Form），并记得保存小

票。

2. 申请退税

当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台

请他们在您的退税表格上盖章，然后再到环球蓝联

的退税点领取您的退税款。

联系方式：

[email protected]

+421 232 111 111

最低消费€25并且节约高达购买价格14.5%的税。请

注意：最终退款将包含增值税总额，但是要扣除管

理手续费。部分机场还将以退税申请表为单位收取

现金退税手续费。

98 | PRODUC TS


Souvenir

STEP FORWARD

Family-run shoemaker Melvin & Hamilton was founded in 1988 in Heidelberg by Rajab Choukair and is overseen today by his sons, Karim and Olivier, who inherited their father’s passion for footwear and leather. The brothers design the collections based on traditional shoemaking methods, using only the highest-quality leathers, which are hand-coloured to achieve a unique efect each time. A range of colours and fnishes combined with distinctive

details such as decorative stitching, laser-printed patterns and hand-milled soles, ensure that every pair of Melvin & Hamilton shoes is imbued with character. These lace-up men’s derby shoes are a perfect example; the contrasting coloured panels strike a beautiful balance between tradition and modernity. glMelvin & Hamilton derby shoes, €150,Roland Schuhe, Skyline Plaza, Europa-Allee 6, 60327 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 9776 7908,melvin-hamilton.com

THE DARK SIDE OF THE MOONDie Astronauten der Apollo 8 waren die ersten Menschen, die die dunkle Seite des Mondes mit eigenen Augen sehen konnten. Die Co-Axial Speedmaster aus schwarzer Keramik [ZrO2] ehrt den Pioniergeist, der sie an einen Ort brachte, an dem noch nie ein Mensch zuvor gewesen war. Sie ist eine Hommage an jene Speedmaster Professional Chronographen, die von allen Apollo Astronauten getragen wurden. OMEGA ist stolzer Partner der großen Menschheitsträume.

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OMEGA Boutique • Goetheplatz 5 • Frankfurt am Main

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