September 2011 FEAST Magazine

reinventing a classic

Trufflesseafood evangelist

eaT aT bob’sdestination lunchbox

kids’ cravings

Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis feastSTL.com | SEPTEMBER 2011 | FREE

G I M M ES’MoRE

You’ll love the flavor and versatility of our whole roasted chicken. Enjoy it as an easy entrée or use in yourfavorite recipe that calls for cooked chicken. For the delicious dinner ideas shown above and more,

visit www.schnuckscooks.com or pick up recipe cards in our Deli Departmentthat feature whole roasted chicken as the main ingredient.

Enjoy it tonight!

©2011 Schnucks

ROASTED CHICKEN PASTA SALAD CHICKEN & BARLEY SOUP BUFFALO CHICKENMAC & CHEESE

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3Inspired Food Culture SEPTEMBER 2011

The NFL season. It’s like Christmas for football fans. And tomake it evenmerrier,Charter is now offering NFL Network and NFL RedZone. Give yourself the giftthat keeps on hitting today.

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DOCKSIDE dining 70


FROM THE STAFF

| 14 | FEASTSTL.COM

What’s online this month.

| 16 | FROM THE PUBLISHER

Easing into fall.

| 18 | FEAST FAVES

Our staff and contributorsshare inspired ideas fortasteful living in St. Louis.

COLUMNS

| 32 | MY STUFF

Go on a play date with Entre ownerand head chef John Perkins.

| 35 | GADGET A-GO-GO

We put five flexible boningknives to the test.

| 36 | ON THE SHELF

New and notable in beer,spirits and wine.

| 38 | MYSTERY SHOPPER

Buy it and try it: berberechos.

| 40 | TECH SCHOOL

Elevate an old school favorite andmake your own marshmallows.

| 42 | EASY EATS

You don’t have to wait for dessertwhen you serve pork tenderloin withchocolate, cherry and port pan sauce.

| 82 | PULL UP A CHAIR

Welcome fall to the table withthe Foley Barstool.

COVER PHOTOGRAPHY OF GOURMET S’MORES (PG 40)

BY Jennifer Silverberg

SEPTEMBER 2011

Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis

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Volume 2 | Issue 9 | September 2011

Publisher and EditorCatherine Neville

Managing EditorBrandi Wills

Online EditorKristin Brashares

Art DirectorLisa Triefenbach

Vice President of AdvertisingDonna Bischoff

Copy EditorJill Pfeiffer

ProofreaderErin Callier

Contributing WritersNathaniel Bonner, Amy Burdge, Erin Callier, Russ Carr, Heidi Dean

Pat Eby, Chad Michael George, Erik Jacobs, Jennifer JohnsonAngela Ortmann, Matt Seiter, Matt Sorrell, Michael Sweeney

Cassandra Vires

Contributing PhotographersMichael Feher, Jonathan Gayman, Gregg Goldman, Wesley Law

Tuan Lee, Laura Ann Miller, Jennifer Silverberg, Corey Woodruff

Contact UsFeast Media, 900 N. Tucker Blvd., 4th Floor

St. Louis, MO 63101feastSTL.com

Advertising InquiriesSusan Eckert, 314.340.8587

[email protected]

Editorial [email protected]

DistributionTo distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please

contact Tom Livingston at [email protected].

Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts,photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned.

All contents are copyright © 2010-2011 by Feast Magazine™.All rights reserved.

Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, withoutthe prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited.

Apublication of Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLCA Lee Enterprises Company

Magazine



THE FEED > ONLINE EXCLUSIVES > THIS MONTH’S FEAST > WATCH & LISTEN > FEAST EVENTS > RECIPES > DIGITAL ARCHIVES

ONLINE CONTENT

STL.COM

Connect with us at facebook.com/feastSTL to stay on top ofhappenings at FEAST Central andconnect with fellow foodies.

Follow us at twitter.com/feastmagfor up-to-the-minute restaurantnews, special deals, FEAST eventsand more.

FoodspottingGet ideas on where

to dine out with FEAST’s monthlyFoodspotting Guide to InspiredEats at foodspotting.com/feastmagazine.

INTERACTwith FEAST

MASTER THE MALLOW: Step up a bonfirestaple with homemade marshmallows. TechSchool chef Cassandra Vires demos all theooey, gooey goodness in a how-to video.

STAY IN THE KNOW: Our weekly enewsletterkeeps you updated on the latest culinarytrends in St. Louis. Sign up today atfeastSTL.com so you don’t miss out!

V I D E O S

SLIDESHOWS

PODCASTS

GO BEHIND THE SCENES: Tour Truffles’ all-new dining area and hang out in the kitchen with executive chefJohn Griffiths as he introduces publisher Catherine Neville to the new menu items and demos his trout crudo.

PACK A PERFECT PICNIC: Get our weekly Dinner & A Show columnist’s shopping list of blanket-ready edibles fromStraub’s that will make your next outdoor outing (she suggests The Great Forest Park Balloon Race) seriously delicious.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ©ISTOCKPHOTO.COM/KCLINE


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Art of FoodSat., Sept. 1o, 6 to 10pm; Koken Art Factory

artoffoodstl.com

The area’s best chefs merge in one spot to celebrate local ingredients and benefit Slow Food St. Louis.

L’Ecole Academy Stir-Fry Class Thu., Sept. 15, 5:30pm to 9:30pm; L’Ecole Academy

$100, lecoleacademy.com or 314.587.2433

A wok isn’t just an oversized skillet. Learn how to use this versatile pan and create perfectly authentic stir-frys in your own kitchen.

Wine TastingThu., Sept. 15, 6 to 7pm; Balaban’s

Complimentary, [email protected]

Join columnist Angela Ortmann for a food-and-wine tasting at Balaban’s.

IRONkids Cooking CompetitionMon., Sept. 19, 5:30 to 9:30pm;

Third Degree Glass Factory

$100, discoveringoptions.org/Events.php

Five teams of kids, led by St. Louis’ finest chefs, square off in this event to benefit Discovering Options.

Green Homes & Great HealthSat., Sept. 24, 9am to 5pm; Missouri Botanical Garden

greenhomesstlouis.org

Discover the many ways that plants, air, water, soil and energy sustain our homes, our health and our Earth.

Schnucks Cooks Cooking ClassWed., Sept. 28, 6pm; Schnucks Cooks Cooking School

$40, schnuckscooks.com or 314.909.1704

Get hands-on at our monthly Schnucks class and make the pork with port featured on page 42.

Feast Book Club Meet-UpMon., Sept. 26, 6pm; Moulin Events

$40, brownpapertickets.com/event/194061

Be the first to get your hands on Stone Soup Cottage’s new cookbook, while you sample dishes from its pages and meet the authors, Carl and Nancy McConnell. Ticket price includes entry into the event, complimentary food and drinks and a copy of the book for signing.

Oceania Luxury Culinary CruiseMay 6 to 17, 2012, from $3,799 per person;

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Join publisher Catherine Neville on a 10-day luxury cruise from Istanbul to Venice with ports of call ranging from Mykonos to Dubrovnik.

Cat’s PicksWednesdays, 8:35Am; The BIG 550 KTRS

Tune in as FEAST publisher Catherine Neville chats with host McGraw Milhaven and gives her weekly picks for the best places to eat and drink in the St. Louis area.

FROM THE PUBLISHER

feedback?

[email protected]

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Summer is finally softening and it’s once again pleasant to be outdoors.

St. Louisans are famously enamored with al fresco dining and so this month we take you to Carlyle Lake for an easy late summer dinner party (p. 70). Wanderlust chef Erik Jacobs served up a menu that is low on stress and high on flavor to make entertaining dockside (or poolside or even on your patio) a breeze. After the shoot wrapped up, we set sail and toasted the day with craft beer and Torrentes.

Beer pairs beautifully with the light, bright dishes in this issue, so we reached out to Mike Sweeney to get his recommendations for canned craft brews (p. 68). This time of year we’re picnicking, camping, heading to festivals or enjoying a float trip and glass bottles usually aren’t welcome. Thankfully, great canned craft beer is becoming widely available and we’ve got a cooler full of recommendations that will satisfy.

Our September issue rounds out with a peek into Bob’s Seafood (p. 57) and inventive lunch ideas for the back-to-school set (p. 46). Homemade marshmallows (p. 40), pork with a chocolate-cherry-port sauce (p. 42), a taste of John Griffiths’ reinvented Truffles (p. 18) and a sip of California Viognier (p. 19) all make for a delicious way to bid summer farewell and beckon the harvest season that’s just around the corner.

Until next time,

Catherine Neville


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EXCLUSIVE VIDEO! Get in the kitchen with chef Griffiths and watch him prepare the troutcrudo pictured above. Scan the Microsoft Tag from your smart phone (get the free app at gettag.mobi), orwatch the video in the Watch & Listen section at feastSTL.com.

FEAST FAVES | where we’re dining

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A ClAssiC, ReinventedThe changes at Truffles have been introducedgracefully, which is to say that it still feelslike the well-loved Truffles, just somehowbetter. More modern. More sophisticated.That refined sensibility also emanates fromexecutive chef John Griffiths’ kitchen, whichis turning out upscale Italian dishes thatsomehow remain rustic and approachable.Trout crudo is given nuance with pecans,steelhead caviar and herb blossoms. Manycontemporary restaurants encourage sharingamong diners and at Truffles, this trendappears in the form of centerpiece proteins:whole flounder, La bistecca Fiorentina (abeautiful, massive steak), a whole roastedchicken, and more. These shareable dishesare carved in the center of the dining roomat the new Chef’s Table, which brings someof the action normally relegated to thekitchen out where diners can enjoy the show.Served with sides like housemade pasta orblistered greens, sharing Griffiths’ seasonalItalian cuisine elevates “family style” toentirely new heights.

9202 Clayton Road, Laduetodayattruffles.com

Truffles

314.567.9100

LaDUE


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FEAST FAVES / seCret IngredIentFEAST FAVES | what we’re drInkIng

Open a bottle of Viognier from Santa Barbara, Calif., at your next dock party(see page 70 for a delicious dockside menu), and you’ll agree this varietal showstremendous versatility with seafood. Viognier’s journey, from a mere 24 acresin Northern Rhône, France, in 1968 to celebrity status in the 1990s, has yieldedthis variety an ideal home in Santa Barbara’s nearly perfect coastal climate ofcool nights and dry, sunny days. The intrigue is in Viognier’s marvelous, headyaromatics of apricot, passion fruit, lychee and orange blossom – capturedduring an ever-so-brief window whenthese grapes are perfectly ripe atharvest – that are emphasized byits luscious, full-bodied palate.

SantaBarBaraViognier

wRiTTeN By Jennifer Johnson

2009 JaffursViognierSantaBarbaraCounty, Calif.

A blend from two vineyard sites to balance aromaticsand acidity, Jaffurs Viognier effectively offers an exoticcore of papaya, kiwi and tangerine, with a ripe, juicy anddecadent mouth feel and a lingering finish of restrainedminerality. Pair with lobster risotto, fried soft-shell crabsandwiches, potato-encrusted halibut or grilled porkchops with peach chutney.

TheWine&CheesePlace, 7435ForsythBlvd., Clayton,wineandcheeseplace.com; $26.99

2010 MelVille Viognier,estateVerna’sSantaBarbaraCounty, Calif.

Melville’s painstaking handlingof Viognier grapes includes slowand cold fermentation and hasyielded true varietal expression,with aromas of mango, whitepeaches and just-slicedruby-red grapefruit with arich, mango-fleshy mouth feel.elegant, brisk finish with a flickof minerality and a pleasingwaft of petrol. Pair with frittomisto, smoked duck canapés,steamed mussels in white wineor fried chicken.

LocalHarvestGrocery,3108MorganFordRoad,TowerGroveSouth,localharvestgrocery.com; $26

ASt. Louis-basedwine and food enthusiast, Jennifer Johnson is a sommelier,wine educator, journalist and hospitality andmarketing consultant who loves tocelebrate life, family, food andwine


FEAST FAVES | where we’re dining

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SYRIAN DELIGHTS

Ranoush

314.726.6874The LoopKirKwood

Longtime Loop favorite Ranoush recently opened anew location in downtown Kirkwood, bringing theirsuperlative Syrian cuisine to another strip of belovedneighborhood restaurants. Light dishes burst withMediterranean flavors of spices, herbs and citrus,while heartier fare offers generous portions of juicy,grilled meats. Share the mezza for two – a selectionof small plates – in the colorful and aromatic diningroom, or skip the formalities and dig right into thechicken shawarma, a warm pita overflowing withgrilled chicken and onions, served with a thickand potent garlic sauce. beef kafta features ballsof seasoned ground beef that are skewered andgrilled, and the baked aubergines (eggplant) offers amouthwatering meatless option, served with onionsand peppers in a bubbly tomato sauce. Try the knafehfor dessert – a hybrid of baklava and cheesecake thatmarries layers of sweet cheese with fluffy phyllo.While the Kirkwood menu doesn’t vary much fromtheir offerings in The Loop, we’re not sure we’d want itto … why mess with a good thing? –B.W.

6501 Delmar blvd., The Loop200 N. Kirkwood Road, Kirkwoodranoush.com


Mon-Fri 10am-7pm • Sat 9am-5pm • Sun 10am-5pmwww.terrastl.com

Mon-Fri 7:30am-9pm • Sat 7:30am-7pm • Sun 9am-6pmwww.acestl.com

Mon Fri 777:3030am 99pm • Sat 77:30am 7p7 m • SuSS n 9a9 m 66p6

Good life inside and out

11769 Manchester Road • Des Peres, MO 63131In Des Peres Commons next to Ace Hardware

314-966-0800

221 Lamp & Lantern VillageTown & Country, MO 63017Inside of Rick's Ace Hardware

636-386-7733

FEAST FAVES / seCret IngredIentFEAST FAVES | FOOd stUFF

MadeWith BeerEverything’s betterwith beer, right?The secret ingredient inthese savoryproducts is a splashof thebubbly brew. –B.W.

Pair with: Fish and chiPs

Pair with: caliFornia Pinot noir

Pair with: BeeF and carrots

| 1 | Waldburg Balsam Beer vinegar, $4.99/100 ml; VOM FASS, 7314 ManchesterRoad, Maplewood, vomfassslmo.com | 2 | Raspberry Bellavitano cheese, $15.99/lb; The Wine Merchant, 20 S. Hanley Road, Clayton, thewinemerchantltd.com | 3

| Belgian Beer & Onion Braising Base, $16; Williams-Sonoma, multiple locations,williams-sonoma.com VinegAR And CHeeSe PHOTOgRAPHy By Laura Ann Miller



The MarTini

FEAST FAVES | whAT we’re drInkIng

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Perhaps one of the most misconstrued of all classic cocktails, thesimple, elegant, beautiful martini has been a shape-shifter sinceits inception more than 120 years ago. After many facelifts andcountless variations, we can only rely on three things common tomost pre-Prohibition recipes: gin, vermouth and bitters.

When it comes to the matter of shaken or stirred, it depends onthe drinker. Normally, I stir a martini. Stirring keeps the integrity ofthe ingredients and, when poured into a cocktail glass, the martiniis clear and elegant with a silky smooth mouth feel. According to1940s cocktail enthusiast David Embury, author of The Fine Art ofMixingDrinks, a shaken martini is called a bradford. When shaken,it becomes aerated and lighter, with a cloudy hue. However, over thecourse of a few minutes, the cloudiness goes away and reveals theclear, pristine drink as if stirred.

Despite all the recipes I’ve come across for this lovely libation, Iprefer the one mentioned in The Fine Art ofMixingDrinks by ananonymous contributor. It calls for gin, dry vermouth, a dash oforange bitters and a lemon peel for garnish. (See the recipe belowfor proportions.)

The MartiniServes | 1 |

2¼ oz North Shore Distiller’s Gin No. 6¾ oz Dolin Vermouth de Chambéry Dry

2 dashes Regan’s Orange Bitters No. 6lemon peel, for garnish

| Preparation | Combine gin, vermouth and bitters in a mixing glasswith cracked ice. Stir for 30 seconds. Strain into a cocktail glass, andgarnish with lemon peel. If desired, a few olives on a cocktail pick willadd a classic feel.

STORy AND RECIPE by Matt Seiter

MattSeiter is a co-founder of the United States Bartenders’ Guild’s St. Louischapter, amember of the National Board for the USBG’sMA programand is acontinuing educator for all desiring knowledge of the craft ofmixology. He isamember of Drink Lab and is the creator of the Sanctuaria Cocktail Club.

The Making (and Make Over) of the Martini1884: The first printed recipe for anything resembling a martini was in 1884 in O.H. byron’sTheModern Bartender’s Guide. In the book, it’s called the Martinez, and the recipe simplystates: “Same as Manhattan, only you substitute gin for whisky.” Equal parts gin to Italianvermouth (sweet vermouth) with two dashes of curaçao and two dashes of bitters.

Late 1880s: Many publications from the late 1880s reported that martinis were beingserved by barmen all over New york City. At the same time, we see dry vermouth come

into play. The American palate was becoming less sweet, and drier products werebecoming available in the market. We see a switch from Old Tom gin (a sweetened gin) toLondon dry gins and a shift from sweet, dark rums to white and dry rums.

1900: A few cocktails appeared in bar guides around the turn of the 20th century thatevolved into the iconic martini, one being the Marguerite, made with Plymouth (English)gin, French vermouth and orange bitters.

1920s: The v-shaped, conical cocktail glass now synonymous with the martini wasintroduced in the early 1920s. (It wasn’t until the 1960s, however, that it became the symbolfor bars and cocktails.) And, in 1923, William F. Mulhall wroteTheGoldenAge ofBooze, anarticle about his years pouring martinis at New york City’s famed Hoffman House. –M.S.

BArTender knOwLedge


FEAST FAVES | DESIGN TRENDS WE LOVE

SCRAPWOODWALLPAPER

Specialty wall treatments are highly covetedyet hardly ever achieved. As easy as theymake it look in home makeover shows, we’reconvinced those kinds of DIY techniques arebenefiting from the magic of television. Whichis why Dutch furniture designer Piet HeinEek’s scrapwood wallpaper is a dream cometrue and our current design trend obsession.

This class A, double-layered, non-woven,extremely high-resolution wallpaper – whichmimics salvaged, weathered wood – receivedan Editors Award at this summer’s 2011International Contemporary Furniture Fair(ICFF) in New York City, and our own Feasteditors would like to second the motion. Sixdistressed styles printed on FSC-certifiedpaper make it a perfect fit for any roomin the home. But at $4.63 per square foot(scrapwoodwallpaper.com), it’s best suitedto smaller areas, like a backsplash, breakfastnook or a single wall in the dining room.

So toss out the scrapers, sponges, stencilsand whatever other painful processes youwere planning to inflict on your walls andinstead smooth on a few sheets of this sleek,chic paper. –B.W.

Images courtesy of scrapwoodwallpaper.com

Specialty wall treatments are highly coveted


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‘‘creative’’‘‘new’’‘‘delicious’’‘‘fun’’

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Great fried chicken seems simple, but it’s a balancing act.Too greasy, and it’s gross. Too bland, and why bother?Porter’s fried chicken gracefully walks this culinaryhigh wire. The double-layer breading is flavorfully saltywithout being overwhelming. The meat – even on wings –

is succulent. It’s such a happy marriage that I try to getsome of both in every bite.

I love that the two-piece box dinner comes withclassic sides – creamy slaw, mashed potatoesand an airy roll. The delightful deep-friedchicken alone would be enough to lure me tothis strip-mall jewel, but the homestyle extras

add some delicious nostalgia.

3628 S. Big Bend Road, Maplewoodporterschicken.com

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COnTRIBuTOR’S PICk Heidi dean

a tastytwo-piece

Readmore fromour out-on-the-town-adventuress Heidi Dean at feastSTL.com in her weekly ShopGirl roundup ofmust-try-and-buy foods.


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FEAST FAVES | shop-o-matIC

Hey fellas. Remember all the times your wife/girlfriend/mom/sister dragged you to the shoedepartment and left you sitting there, bored outof your mind, while they excitedly dove into thegoods? Well, it’s time the tables are turned.

Pop into St. Louis Wine & Beermaking at prettymuch any time of day and you’ll see giddyguys perusing the aisles, checking out the new

offerings, stocking up on ingredients for theirnext big batch and longingly eyeing

the enormous Boilermaker brewingsystem in the center of the room.

This store, tucked into the Lamp& Lantern shopping center atthe corner of Clayton and WoodsMill roads, is Mecca for the home

brewer or winemaker. Here iswhere you’ll find all the ingredients,

equipment and knowledge you need to makeyour own beer and wine (and vinegars, mead,sake, etc.) at home. From the juices, fruits, hops,barley and yeasts you’ll need in order to mix upyour wine or beer to the barrels, fermenters,testing kits, bottles and corkers you’ll need tostore it, they have it all.

While the store has been in this location for 20years, they welcome brewers of any experiencelevel and offer regular classes, demos and tastingsto help you perfect your techniques and recipes.Be sure to ask for a sample of whatever they’vegot on tap at the moment … and ask for a secondglass for your friend sitting in the corner checkingher watch and sighing loudly. –B.W.

231 Lamp & Lantern Village, Chesterfieldwineandbeermaking.com

a homebrewmecca

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St. LouisWine &

Beermaking

636.230.8277

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FEAST FAVES | what we’re buyIng

OutdOOr Linens

| 1 | Yarn-dyed stripe table runner, $39; Williams-Sonoma, multiple

locations, williams-sonoma.com | 2 | French Laundry Bird Toile & Ticking-

Stripe table accessories, $50-$60; Neiman Marcus, Plaza Frontenac,

Frontenac, neimanmarcus.com | 3 | Turkish-T basic cotton towels/blankets,

$45 each; ashblue.com | 4 | Nifty napkins, $32 for set of six; Anthropologie,

St. Louis Galleria, Richmond Heights, anthropologie.com

Whether picnicking in thepark, throwingabackyardbashor enjoyingamid-day snack

on thepatio, dress up the scenewith these stylish outdoor-friendly linens. –B.W.

| 2 |

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It may surprise you to learn that John Perkinsdidn’t set out to become a chef. As head chefof Entre, Perkins is constantly pushing culinaryexpectations. Attend one of his undergrounddinners and you won’t know exactly what toexpect, but you know that it will be inventiveand utterly delicious. Anticipate dishes likefried salad dressing, encapsulated mangojuice on beet tartar or savory blue cheese icecream on grilled peaches. “I realized as soonas I graduated from seminary that this is whatI wanted to do,” says Perkins. “I had never feltthe sense of fulfillment in anything the way Idid with cooking. Learning, failing, researchingand exploring new tastes, techniques andconcepts has never ceased being a fascinatingand enjoyable journey for me.”

Do you go out a lot? We rarely, if ever, go outto eat. Most of our meals, when I am home,center around our kitchen counter. Are youthe family cook or is your wife? My wife isthe primary cook at home, although there aretimes when I am happy to relieve her of thatduty. She is equally happy, but for exactly theopposite reason. What do the kids like toeat? My daughter Eva is the most adventurouseater in the family; there is nothing shewon’t try. She may not like it, but she willtry it. Shepherd on the other hand, wincesat everything from tomatoes to onions toanything green. Clem, the youngest, is virtuallyGarfield in little girl form ... she eats anythingand everything put in front of her; typically involumes that surpass the older kids. What’sin your fridge right now? Leftover lasagna,Gogurt, a lot of milk. Nothing interesting.If you could change one thing aboutyour home kitchen, what would it be?Everything. We have an electric stove. We havea portable dishwasher. We have an undersizedand old refrigerator … everything would go.More counter seating. An ice maker! If youweren’t a chef, you’d be … Most likely Iwould be working at a church somewhere.But sometimes I think that if I wasn’t a cook, Iwould be doing something artistic. Honestly,I have no idea. My interests are too varied,and my skills are too shallow to know whatelse I could actually do and be halfway goodat. Wine or beer? Beer, preferably an IPA.Specifically Firestone Walkers Double Jack,Nectar IPA and Green Flash West Coast IPA.Doughnuts or bagels? Doughnuts … thefried cake kind makes me rather weak in theknees. With milk, naturally. What wouldbe your last meal? A warm loaf of crustybread, a soft, ripe goats’ milk cheese, freshfarm butter, kosher salt and a bottle of wine(preferably something with pepper, plum,smoke and leather notes).

MY STUFF

John PERkinS

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anEntre Underground | Mobile | Events314.520.6750entrestl.com

Visit feastSTL.com to learn aboutEntre’s evolution and readour entire interviewwithPerkins.

PicturEd: Lindsay (wife), Evangeline (6), Shepherd (4), clementine (1)

writtEn by Catherine NevillehEad chEf/ownER of EnTRE


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At the end of this period, you may purchase your instrument, if you so desire, at a significantlyreduced charge. Otherwise, there is no fee whatsoever for participating in this field test.Special testing will be done to determine the increased benefits of this technology.

Benefits of hearing aids vary by type and degree of hearing loss, noise environment, accuracyof hearing test, and proper fit. This is a wonderful opportunity to determine if hearing help isavailable for your hearing loss while you evaluate your performance with this technology.

6 months same as cash*


Wüsthof Silverpoint II5-inch Boning Knife

PROSThe blade on this knife cuts with theleast drag of any knife tested. Theone-piece, high-carbon German steelblade is stamped rather than forged,but Wüsthof technology triumphswith a perfect machine-ground laserfactory edge. The best knife forpreventing damage to the meat. Aterrific price for a well-made knife.

CONSWüsthof aficionados may find theutilitarian plastic handle cheap-looking.

$29.99; Bertarelli Cutlery,1927Marconi Ave., TheHill,bertarellicutlery.com

| 1 |

gadget a-go-go

What to looK For :

Use one of these niftykniveswhen cleaning yourcatch or prepping some of the freshfinds fromBob’s Seafood, profiledin this month’s issue.

Blade: A good boning knife needs three things for the blade towork effectively: flexibility, a keen edge and a sharp point. First,blades flex in varying degrees, from nearly rigid to supple as acontortionist’s backbone. Flex is most important in the first thirdof the blade length to allow you to maneuver in close as you cutbad from good. Second, look for high-carbon or stainless steelblades, which can be sharpened regularly. Third, a boning knife’spoint should look wicked and pierce fast. It creates the entry pointfor the knife to shimmy next to bone or slip under fish skin.

length: Six inches makes quick work of most cuts. Longer, morerigid blades bone out larger cuts of meat like hams and roasts,but don’t buy more length than you need. Seven inches, tops. Thelonger the blade, the harder it is to control.

handle: Consider heft, balance and grip, a trifecta of importantqualities that reduce hand fatigue, make cleaner cuts and promotesafe cutting. Make sure the handle length fits your hand comfortablybetween the finger guard near the blade and the handle guard at thebutt of the knife. Check balance. Light boning blades don’t need atoo-heavy handle. The grip should feel secure. If the handle slides toofreely in your hand, hold out for a nonslip grip.

Boning knife or fillet knife: Both knives work well to cutaround bones, remove sinews and silverskin on meats and chicken,and remove the skin from fish. If you work more with fish thanmeats, choose a fillet knife and vice-versa. For most home cooks,one good-quality, flexible knife will last a lifetime.

dexter Flexible 6-inchBoning Knife, Sani-Safe

PROSJust slightly wider in the blade andshorter in length than the 7-inchDexter fillet knife also reviewed thismonth, this knife moves in and outof tasks much faster and with morecontrol than its longer counterpart.The shorter knife cuts more quicklyaround odd-shaped bones. The lift-and-cut motion used to remove skinflows better with the center of theblade closer at hand.

CONSThe sturdy white handle lacks style.

$17; B& J Peerless Food ServiceEquipment, 1616DielmanRoad,Olivette, bjpeerless.com

CheCk outpage

57!

PhoToGrAPhy By Laura ann Miller

rapala Stainless Steel6-inch Fillet Knife

PROSA utilitarian tackle-box knife with aworkmanlike blade and a terrific lowprice; even a beginner can pick up thisknife and practice with little out-of-pocket expense. The name rapala isbetter known to fishermen than tocooks, but here’s a knife to try if you’renot sure you want a boning knife. Itcuts cleanly and quickly, handles wellat the start, and slices fish, chickenand pork into thin fillets just right forthe campfire or stovetop.

CONSThe inflexible plastic handle makes foran uncomfortable but safe grip. Theexpected life for this hard-workingknife is one season in the tackle box.

$5.49; Paul’s Bait &Tackle, 4421ChippewaSt., South St. Louis,paulsbaittackle.com

| 2 | | 3 |

dexter 7-inch NarrowFillet Knife, Sani-Safe

PROSThis commercial knife, used mostly inrestaurant and food service kitchens,delivers good value for a low price. Theblade cuts cleanly around bones andslips easily between skin and meat fora clean cut with little loss. The bigger,more rigid blade worked best to trima hambone for ham salad. The sealbetween the blade and the handlematerial is impervious to bacteria, aplus when cutting raw meat, fish andchicken.

CONSThe longer blade length makes cuttingclose to the rigid bones of smallpork chops a bit awkward. Ditto forskinning smaller fish. The white handledoesn’t look too handsome on theknife rack, either.

$16.91; Session Fixture Co., 6044Lemay Ferry Road, Oakville,sessionfixtures.com

| 4 |

Victorinox Flexible6-inch Fillet Knife

PROSThe curved blade on this Swiss-madeknife looks great and cuts with terrificcontrol on dense meats like chopsand chicken. Fish, too, fillet thinand smooth without tears and jagsbecause this knife exits cuts as cleanlyas it started them. The cut motionseems smoother and the turns moreintuitive with this easy-to-handleblade. Comfy cushion grip, too, madeof bacteria-resistant material.

CONSNo complaints with this good-looking knife, except for a little nameconfusion. The brand name for theseknives used to be Forschner.

$19.44; HessMeatMachines, 5640Gravois Road, Bevo, hessmm.com

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Put to the teSt

FLEXIBLEBONING

KNIVESWrITTeN By pat eby

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Wódka VodkaPROVENANCE: Poland (40% abv)AVAILABLE AT: Friar Tuck, multiple locations,

friartuckonline.com; $10.99

I’ve written this column for more than a year andhave never featured straight vodka. But this newvodka deserves some respect, and it happens to bea bargain as well. Wódka is one of the most clean andsmooth vodkas I’ve ever tasted. Triple-distilled from100 percent rye grains, this Polish vodka sets a newbar for the less-than-$15-per-bottle vodka market.Vodka should be flavorless and odorless. This isboth, to perfection, with a silky smooth texture.

ON the shelf

BEERWrITTen By Michael Sweeney

The creator of STLHops.comand founder of St. LouisCraftBeerWeek, Michael Sweeney is also the CraftBeerManager at Lohr Distributing.

OUR TOP PICKS FOR SEPTEMBERPourIng WIne PhoTograPhy By ©ISTockPhoTo.com/LaurI PaTTerSon

the Big OPROVENANCE: St. Louis (15% abv)AVAILABLE AT: The Wine & Cheese Place, multiplelocations, wineandcheeseplace.com; $29.99

Two St. Louisans, Bill Foster and kathy kuper,decided to come up with their own liqueur aftertasting homemade limoncello. ginger would be thedominant flavor in their after-dinner cordial. Whengood friend Tom knecht tasted it, he urged thecouple to take it to market. now, we can all enjoy TheBig o. It is spicy, sweet, stimulating and smooth. Ipredict it will appear on many cocktail menus aroundtown in the coming months.

Barsol PiscoPROVENANCE: Peru (40% abv)AVAILABLE AT: The Wine Chateau, 90 Clarkson WilsonCenter, Chesterfield, thewinechateau.com; $24.99

Pisco often gets pigeonholed into a one-cocktailapplication (pisco sour), like cachaca for a caipirinha.This diverse spirit deserves a better fate, and BarSolis a welcome addition to the limited pisco selectioncurrently on shelves. Distilled from 100 percent first-press Quebranta grapes in a pot still and distilled atbottle proof, no water is added prior to bottling to

lower the alcohol percentage. What comes out ofthe still goes straight into the bottle.

SPIRITSWrITTen By Chad Michael George

Award-winning sommelier andmixologist ChadMichaelGeorgeis founder of ProofAcademy,which covers everything fromwineand cocktail list consulting to spirits andmixologyeducation.

Perennial Artisan Ales’hommel BierSTYLE: Belgian Pale Ale (5.9% abv)AVAILABLE AT: Perennial Artisan Ales,8125 Michigan Ave., Ste. 101, Carondelet,perennialbeer.com; $5 (16-oz draught)PAIRINGS: Grilled grouper • Provolone

one of St. Louis’ newest breweries, Perennialartisan ales has promised to constantly

push the envelope and make beers that are unique andtasty. Its first creation is a Belgian pale ale that combinesa complex Belgian yeast strain with some bold americanhops. It's a delicious marriage of new World and old.

Brewery Ommegang’s Rare VosSTYLE: Belgian-style Amber Ale (6.5% abv)AVAILABLE AT: Whole Foods Market, multiple locations,wholefoodsmarket.com; $7.99 (750 ml bottle)PAIRINGS: Mussels • Chorizo

This amber, Belgian-style beer is as interestingas it is decadent. The unique Belgian yeast straingives this beer a fruity, almost pear-like character.Luckily, the high, but not overwhelming, amount ofcarbonation on the beer keeps it feeling spritzyand keeps you coming back for glass after glass.

Odell Brewing Co.’s IPASTYLE: American IPA (7% abv)AVAILABLE AT: The Wine Merchant Ltd., 20 S.Hanley Road, Clayton, winemerchantltd.com;$9.99 (six-pack, 12-oz bottles)PAIRINGS: Torta al pastor • Green goddess salad

This IPa could have been called Fruit Punch.one whiff of this beer is a haymaker to yoursenses. It has a huge orangy and lemony aromathat will make you think you’re standing in acitrus field in Florida. although it has enoughmalt to help balance the beer, the bitternesscertainly shines through.


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Join Angela Ortmann and FEAST publisherCatherine Neville for a happy hour winetasting on Thu., Sept. 15, at Balaban's,at 6pm. RSVP to [email protected].

WINEwritten by Angela Ortmann

STLwinegirl AngelaOrtmannsharesherpassion forall thingsepicurean throughhereventandconsultationbusiness,whichisdedicated toenhancingyour foodandwineexperience.

2009 Tikal PatriotaPROVENANCE: Mendoza, ArgentinaAVAILABLE AT: The Wine & Cheese Place, multiple

locations, wineandcheeseplace.com; $18.99PAIRINgs: Cheddar • Barbecue chicken • Carnitas

Full-bodied and full of ripe fruit, this blend ofbonarda and Malbec is layered with berries,cocoa and spice. exhibiting a great balanceand a persistent finish, the wine is lush withoutbeing overpowering. A paradigm red for

transitioning to fall temperatures.

2009 Substance Pinot GrisPROVENANCE: Yakima Valley, Wash.AVAILABLE AT: Lukas Liquor, 15921 ManchesterRoad, Ellisville, lukasliquorstl.com; $16.99PAIRINgs: Mussels • Tandoori chicken • Fish tacos

Alluring aromas of apple and almond make wayto refreshing citrus and melon flavors on thepalate in this medium-bodied white. Hints ofminerality from stainless steel fermentationare a pleasant addition to the wine’s crispnature and racy acidity.

2008 Alexandre SirechLe BordeauxPROVENANCE: Bordeaux, FranceAVAILABLE AT: Friar Tuck, 9053 Watson Road,Crestwood, friartuckonline.com; $12.99PAIRINgs: Prime rib • Mushroom tart • Osso buco

A velvety blend of Merlot and Cabernet, richwith bright red berry notes and well-integratedtannins. representing a new era of bordeaux,Sirech has crafted an approachable wine tomake an otherwise intimidating wine regionaccessible.

JOINUS!

Feast readers get this wine for just$16.99 at The Wine & Cheese Placeduring the month of September.

CheCk iT ouT!

FeAstextrA


Berberecho Linguini withChorizo and FennelBy Mason Denton , Terrace View

Serves | 4 |

1 Tbsp olive oil¼ lb ground chorizo

1 shallot, finely diced½ cup thinly sliced fennel1 cup Rioja (Spanish red wine)1 cup vegetable stock1 tsp ground cumin

2 6.5-oz tins of berberechos, drained(reserve juice from 1 can)

1 lb linguini, boiled and drained¼ cup chopped parsley and chives

salt and freshly ground black pepperfennel fronds, for garnish

| Preparation | Heat oil in a large sauce potover medium-high heat. add chorizo andshallot, being careful not to burn the shallot.add fennel, then the rioja, cooking off thealcohol for 30 to 45 seconds. add stock, cuminand reserved berberecho juice. reduce by half,and then add berberechos. Toss with linguini.Finish with herbs and season to taste with saltand pepper. Garnish with fennel fronds. Serveimmediately with warmed bread.

mySTery Shopper

Looking for something exotic tospice things up in the kitchen?Pull out your shiniest pan, stare atyour own heavy-lidded reflectionand, in your best Antonio Banderasor Penélope Cruz voice, breathilywhisper “berberechos.” Thesetiny mollusks, with their tannedcomplexions and bodies glisteningwith brine, could be just theculinary fling you’ve been desiring.

WhataRetheY?

Berberechos is the Spanish name for a variety of bivalve –a member of the clam family – harvested in the estuariesof Galicia (that nub of Spain just north of Portugal).Small (about the size of a green olive) and slightly chewy,berberechos range in color from creamy white to lightbrown, usually with a yellow ‘foot’ at one end.

even if you’ve never tried berberechos, you may haveheard of them under their english moniker: cockles. inthe famous irish song, Molly Malone dutifully hawkedthem (and mussels!) in the streets of “Dublin’s fair city.”although you may not be able to buy cockles “alive,alive-o,” brined and tinned Spanish berberechos arereadily available.

hoWDo I Use theM?

Berberechos are most common in Spain as straight-uptapas – something to nibble on while sipping a glass ofalbariño or a crisp Pilsner. a few squirts of lemon juice anda toss of parsley are enough to brighten the little clams’flavor. Serve them up with some crusty bread and olive oilfor an authentic taste of Galicia. For the more ambitious,berberechos can be used in dishes such as paellas andseafood stews or tossed with pasta or into a salad.

Don’t lose the thrill of your new relationship by makingthings too complicated, though. Berberechos have adistinct flavor, but their small size means that flavorcan be easily overpowered by other ingredients. Simplepreparations will bring out the berberechos’ best.

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Stop by to pick up more delicious recipes featuring berberechos. Visit straubs.com for information on its four locations.check it out!

FeaStextRa

meeT: BERBERECHOS wriTTen By Russ Carr


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JOE & VALERIEPLAME WILSONFormer CIA Operative& Former Diplomatto Iraq, Portrayed inthe Film Fair Game

Tues, Nov. 29, 2011

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Pulitzer Prize-Winning Author&Distinguished

Historian

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MICHELLERHEE

Former D.C. SchoolsChancellor Featured

in Waiting forSuperman

Tues, Nov. 8, 2011

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Legendary TelevisionJournalist & Authorof The Greatest

Generation

Tues, May 1, 2012

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In Tehran

Tues, Feb. 28, 2012

STANLEYMCCHRYSTALRetired Four-StarGeneral & FormerCommander of U.S.Forces in Afghanistan

Tues, Apr. 3, 2012

MICHAEL POLLANRenowned Sustainable

Food ActivistTues, Jan. 24, 2012

Seven evenings of diverse opinions, profound insights and fascinating discussion, featuringMichael Pollan, America’s leading specialist in the areas of food & sustainability.

His prize-winning bestsellers include In Defense of Food, The Omnivore’s Dilemma,The Botany of Desire, and Food Rules. In 2008, he co-starred in the documentary Food, Inc.

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S P O N S O R E D B Y


TECH SCHOOL

MARSHMALLOWSTORY AND RECIPE BY Cassandra Vires

Chef CassandraVires received her culinary training in Houston, Texas,and has a knack for reimagining classic dishes. Her new restaurant,HomeWine Kitchen, opened recently inMaplewood.

Homemade marshmallows aren’t your average Peep. Store-bought versions are overly sweet, chewy and dry compared to themoist, fluffy and balanced flavor of homemade “mallows.” And theprocess is incredibly simple for even the most novice cook.

It may be a surprise that this classic comfort food wasoriginally created for its medicinal purposes. Sourced fromthe marsh mallow plant, it’s sap was made into foam andused as a throat lozenge and cough suppressant until the late1800s. At that point, people started to see its commercialappeal and substituted readily available gelatin for the sap.The marshmallow as a widely available treat was born.

Today, the sweet snack is experiencing a resurgence in thegourmet market, with restaurants featuring homemademarshmallow on their menus and confection shops sellingfruit marshmallows and marshmallow pies.

Although its gourmet applicationsmay seem impressive, what’smore amazing is the simplicity ofthis delicious confection.

As with most classic recipes, there are numerous variations.Traditionally, an egg-white meringue was whipped intothe marshmallow mix, but with the growing awareness ofsalmonella, that was phased out. Other recipes featurecornstarch. The addition of cornstarch stabilizes the foam andalso decreases the stickiness, but if you’re careful in your recipe,stability isn’t a concern. Besides, the stickiness is half the fun!

Once you’ve mastered the art of making marshmallow, theapplications are endless. You can add it to hot cocoa or coffee,top a soup or soufflé with it, add fun flavorings or, my favorite,create bite-sized s’mores with homemade marshmallow. Thekids will love it and, of course, so will the adults.

COOKING VIDEO!Watch chef Cassy make theseooey gooey morsels and turn

them into gourmet s’mores in thismonth’s video.

Scan the Microsoft Tag from your smart phone(get the free app at gettag.mobi), or watchthe video in the Watch & Listen section at

feastSTL.com.

For a fun application, dip themarshmallow squares inmelted chocolate and crushedgraham crackers to creategourmet s’mores!

Yield | 48 marshmallows |

confectioners’ sugar,as needed

¾ cup cold water, divided3 Tbsp gelatin powder2 cups granulated sugar1/8 cup light corn syrup¼ tsp fine salt

1 vanilla bean, halvedand scraped

| Preparation | Grease a 9x13-inch cake pan and fit the bottomwith a piece of parchment paper.Sprinkle with confectioners’sugar. Set aside until needed.

Pour ½ cup cold water in the

bowl of an electric stand mixerfitted with the whisk, andsprinkle the gelatin on top ofthe water. Let the gelatin sit and“bloom” for 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, combine sugar, cornsyrup, salt, | 1 | vanilla scrapingsand remaining ¼ cup water in amedium saucepan. Boil until themixture reaches 240°F, using acandy thermometer to gauge thetemperature, and is at the “softball” stage.

With the stand mixer on lowspeed, slowly pour the hotsugar mixture into the bloomedgelatin. Once all the hot liquidis added, gradually increase themixer speed to high.

Continue mixing at high speed

Homemade Marshmallow

until the mixture is fluffy and hastripled in volume.

| 2 | Using an oiled rubberspatula, transfer marshmallowmixture to the prepared pan.Smooth the surface using thespatula or an oiled sheet ofplastic wrap. Let cool overnight.

Lightly dust a workspacewith confectioners’ sugar.Invert the set marshmallowonto the powdered surface.If it sticks, use an oiled butterknife or spatula to help it comeloose. Dust a pizza cutter withconfectioners’ sugar, and cutthe marshmallow into bite-sizedsquares. | 3 | Dust with additionalconfectioners’ sugar, and storein an airtight container for up totwo weeks.


Visit www.schnuckscooks.comfor Schnucks Cooks videos, recipes, locations, our monthly newsletter and more!

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©2011 Schnucks

Â) To test the color of the caramel,with a spoon, drop a small amounton a white plate.

Å) Add sugar, water and corn syrup,then cook until caramel is amber orthe color of iced tea.

¿) Add butter, salt and vanillaand stir with a whisk until butter melts.

Check Out Schnucks Cooks Videos For Tips & Techniques!

Salty Caramel Sauce

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You’ll love our foolproof recipe for homemadecaramel sauce! Drizzle sauce over fruit pies, bakedapples, bread or rice pudding, ice cream or crepes.Use it as a dip for pretzels or sliced fruit. Here area few steps for making a sumptuous caramel sauce(see complete recipe online).

Our Schnucks Cooks how-to videos are full of tips and techniques from our teamof culinary experts. If you want to learn more, check out our video library at www.schnuckscooks.com.

You’ll also find a variety of Schnucks Cooks recipes for quick, easy and affordable meal solutions.

At our in-store Schnucks Cooks stations, our experienced Cooking Coaches will demonstratehow to cook our featured recipes and sample them for you to try! You’ll find all the ingredients

and cooking equipment for each recipe next to ourSchnucks Cooks station in select stores.

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EASY EATS

PHOTOGRAPHY bY Jennifer Silverberg

| CHEF’S |

1½ cups tawny port½ cup dried tart cherries½ cup dried sweet cherries½ cup aged balsamic vinegar½ tsp sugar1/8 tsp salt

1 Tbsp grape seed oil1 1½-lb pork tenderloin

salt and freshly groundblack pepper

1 Tbsp ice-cold unsalted butter1 to 2 pinches freshly ground black pepper

1/8 tsp cinnamon1/8 tsp ground cloves

1 oz dark chocolate, more than60 percent cocoapea tendrils, for garnish

| Preparation | Preheat oven to 350ºF.| 1 | In a medium saucepan, combine port,

cherries, balsamic vinegar, sugarand salt. bring to a low boil, thenlower heat to a simmer and reduceby half, stirring occasionally.

Meanwhile, in a heavy-bottomedpan, heat grape seed oil overmedium-high heat until it shimmers.Season pork with salt and pepper,and add pork to the pan. | 2 | browntenderloin on all sides, about 1½ to3 minutes per side. You’ll need toturn the tenderloin 3 times to searit completely.

Place the pan in the oven, and cookthe pork to an internal temperatureof 150ºF to 155ºF, about 8 to 12

chocolaTE foR dinnERRECIPE bY Nathaniel Bonner

Pork tenderloin is a great midweek dish because it takes so little time to prepare. The pan sauce in this recipe – with cherry,port and chocolate flavors – perfectly complements the pork and brings a unique element to the dish. be sure to add therecipe to your file for a quick weeknight meal or an impressive party dish.

| 1 |

| 2 |

| 3 |

Trimming The Tenderloin: It’s necessary to inspectthe tenderloin and trim any silverskin (elastin) to ensure aneven texture throughout the meat. If left on, the silverskinbecomes chewy and rubbery.

reducing The sauce: It’s important to keep anygastrique (balsamic reduction) thin when

warm, as it will set up and becomethick upon cooling.

resTing The meaT: All your meat-preparation effortswill be lost if the meat doesn’t go through a proper restingphase. During the cooking process, all of the juices and fatshave been forced into the center of the protein, and theycreate pressure. When you cut into the meat, that pressureis released, and the juices are lost on the platter. Lettingmeat rest allows the essential juices to be re-absorbed. Asa result, when the meat is sliced, no juices will run, and theproduct will stay moist and tender all the way through.

Check out feastsTl.com for a step-by-step slideshow on making this month’s dish.

minutes. Remove the pan from oven,put the tenderloin on a platter andlet rest for 10 to 15 minutes.

| 3 | Once the pan sauce has reduced,purée it until smooth in a blenderor with an immersion blender. Ifyou used a blender, add the sauceback to the pan. Reheat. Removefrom heat, and stir in the butter. Addremaining spices and chocolate, andstir until completely incorporated.

Spoon sauce onto a plate. Cut thetenderloin into 1½- to 2-inch sliceson the diagonal, and arrange sliceson top of sauce. Garnish with peatendrils and serve.

check iT ouT!

FeaStextra

ALL-NEW EXHIBITION


Join FEAST and the Schnucks Cooking School Team onWed., Sept. 28, at 6PM to make the tasty menu shownhere. Tickets are just $40 for a night of cooking,dining and wine. RSVP at schnuckscooks.com.

JOIN US!rsVP:

schnuckscooks.comor ..

slsc.org

$5 OFF TICKETSPresent this ad at any Science Center ticket station for $5 off a full-price,adult ticket to this exhibition.

B41

No limit. May not be redeemed for cash, duplicated or combined with any other discount. Offer not validon Friday or Saturday evenings. Tickets subject to availability. Coupon valid through September 16, 2011.


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LUNCHOUTSIDE THE BOX


When I was a kid, my favorite lunch box was purple,metal and celebrated the boy band du jour: TheOsmonds. I loved that lunch box, and what I loved mostwas when my mom packed it with a peanut butter andbanana sandwich, potato chips and a Hostess cupcake.That wasmy idea of a dream lunch.

We asked the kids of some of St. Louis’ mostexperienced culinarians to task their parents withcreating their dream lunches. They jumped at theopportunity to press mom and dad into action toorchestrate fabulous lunchtime creations. The kidsbrought different sensibilities to the table; the chefs,they brought the goods.

WrITTen by Amy H. Burdge | PHOTOgraPHy by Jennifer Silverberg

SHOT On LOcaTIOn aT academy Of THe Sacred HearT

SushiBy Fabrizio Schenardi , Cielo restaurant

Lorenzohelpedmakeboth the rolls, with non-traditional ham, carrotand cucumber in oneand spicy crabmeatand cucumber in theother.He loves to use themandoline to julienne the vegetables andham.Dad’s close eyeandguiding handguardagainst potential cuts.

Yield | 4 to 6 rolls |

2 cups sushi rice, washed at least 4 times oruntil rice is clear

2¼ cups water½ cup rice wine vinegar1 pkg nori

12 strips julienned ham, divided12 strips julienned carrot, divided24 strips julienned cucumber, divided

¼ cup crab meatsriracha, to tastemayonnaise, to taste (optional)soy sauce

| Preparation | Bring rice and water to a boil in a medium sauce pan.reduce heat to low and cook until all water is absorbed, about 45minutes. When rice is done, spoon onto a parchment-lined bakingsheet and pour on rice wine vinegar. stir rice by cutting throughwith a wooden spoon and turning it over, careful not to press downon the rice. Fan the rice until cool to prevent overcooking. Place 1sheet of nori on a sushi mat. Wet your hands with water and spreadrice on the lower half of the nori, taking the rice all the way to theedges of the sheet.

For Ham, Carrot and Cucumber Rolls:Place 2 to 3 strips each ham,carrot and cucumber across the centerline of the rice and rolltightly. Cut roll into 6 pieces, and serve with soy sauce for dipping.

For Spicy Crab andCucumber Rolls:Mix crab meat with sriracha totaste. add a bit of mayo if you like it creamy. Place 2 to 3 cucumberstrips and crab salad across the centerline of the rice and rolltightly. Cut roll into 6 pieces, and serve with soy sauce for dipping.

Fruit-On-A-Stick withHoney-Blueberry YogurtBy Fabrizio Schenardi , Cielo restaurant

Lorenzomade the yogurt dipping sauce himself.This is a great dishwithwhich kids can lend ahelping hand.

strawberries, grapes and pineapplechunks

¼ cup blueberries½ cup plain yogurt2 Tbsp honey

| Preparation | Cut strawberries, grapes andpineapple chunks into bite-sized pieces andplace on bamboo skewers. Halve blueberriesand mix with yogurt and honey. serve as dippingsauce for the fruit.

Lorenzo has an elevated palate. He knows food. Heloves food. In fact, he ate his way across the globethis summer when he visited Chicago, New York Cityand Italy. When his dad, Fabrizio Schenardi, executivechef at The Four Seasons’ Cielo Restaurant, told himabout the project, Lorenzo initially made a pitch for icecream and chocolate cookies, but that turned out tobe a brief flirtation with an idea we all have from timeto time. After a little further brainstorming, father andson settled on some lunchbox options that were a bitmore nutritious but exciting nonetheless.

LOrenzO ScHenArdi, 8

LOrenzO’S LuncH #1: SuSHi+ Fruit-On-A-Stick witHHOneY-BLueBerrY YOgurt


www.thepost-dispatchstore.com | 24/7(877) 767-8785 (TOLL-FREE) MON. - FRI. 9:00 AM - 5:00 PMPRICE DOES NOT INCLUDE TAX, SHIPPING NOR HANDLING.

FIND MORE ST. LOUIS BOOKS ONLINE

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For some places,the intersection o

f food

and beer is a natural fit. Brewpubs

make

both under the same roof, meanin

g you’d

be hard pressed to find fresher sud

s to go

with a plate of food anywhere else

.

More than a dozenbrewpubs — places

that brew and sell their ownbeer and

serve a full menuof

food or light snacks

— operate within a

30-minute drive

of downtown St.

Louis.

The granddaddy

of the bunch

is the St.

Louis Brewery’s

Schlafly Tap Room, a

downtown fixture since

1991 that continues to brew some of the

city’s most innovative and flavorfu

l beers.

(Cask-conditioned Schlafly Ameri

can Pale

Ale is a perfect match for the city’s

best

plate of fish-n-chips.)

Sensational sudsalso are available

beyond the city’slimits. From Ferguson

to Kirkwood to St. Charles, craft b

eer is

flowing like never before. Here’s a

guide to

what’s out there:

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CHAPTER 9

Brew in the Lou: St. Louis’ Beer Culture – Past, Present and Future

By Evan S. Benn

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By Evan S. Benn

87

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1991 that continu

city’s most innovative and flavorfu

l beers.

(Cask-conditioned Schlafly Ameri

can Pale

Ale is a perfect match for the city’s

best

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beerbookFINAL.indd 32

Much has changed in the 20 years since Tom Schlafly and Dan Kopman tookthe bold step of opening a brewery on the King of Beer’s home turf. Schlaflysays people told him he was out of his mind for doing such a thing – even helikened the move to starting a new religion in Mecca. Now that his beer is soldin more than a half-dozen states (and available at Busch Stadium – no smallfeat), it’s hard to question Schlafly’s success. The brewery he and Kopmanstarted in 1991 paved the way for St. Louis’ beer resurgence and set thestandard by which other craft breweries here are measured.(Another change since 1991: beer prices. That’s why beer drinkers in the knowflock to the Schlafly Tap Room on the day after Christmas. Every Dec. 26, thebrewery throws itself a birthday party with all beer prices rolled back to whatthey were in 1991 – about $3 a pint.)One thing that hasn’t changed is the misconception that Schlafly and othercraft brewers are waging a David-vs.-Goliath battle against the Big Brewerieslike A-B and MillerCoors. That story line heated up again after InBev’s 2008takeover of A-B. Almost overnight, the makers of Schlafly beer had the newtitle of St. Louis’ largest locally owned brewery.

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By Evan S. Benn

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ST. LOUIS’BEER CULTURE

BREWin the

LOUPAST, PRESENT

& FUTURE

The Post-Dispatch’s resident “beer guy” Evan Benn, wraps up the city’s long and storied beer history in this newbook. From the beginnings of major manufacturers such as Anheuser-Busch, Falstaff and Lemp, through Prohibi-tion and the passage of the 21st amendment, the shake-up of the InBev takeover and the current microbreweryexplosion,Brew in the Lou offers a complete history along with suggestions for great meal and beer pairings.

$19.95

BREW IN THE LOUST. LOUIS’ BEER CULTURE • PAST, PRESENT & FUTURE

NEW BOOK!

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n states (and availablefeat), it’s hard to question Schlafly’s success. Thstarted in 1991 paved the way for St. Louis’ beestandard by which other craft breweries here ar(Another change since 1991: beer prices. That’sflock to the Schlafly Tap Room on the day afterwery throws itself a birthday party with ll b

Roussin is a member of the Brewery Collectibles Club of America

(bcca.com). Founded in St. Louis as the Beer Can Collectors of

America, the club has expanded to include other breweriana, much

like Roussin’s collection.With so many beer cans produced over the years, and only so

much room in basements and houses, a lot of hard-core beer can

collectors have taken to focusing their collections.

Take Jed Conroy, an electrical contractor in Bethalto, Ill., who

collects cans that have numbers in their name, such as 905, Cloud

Nine, 5 Star, Brew 66 and Straight 8 beers.

“I’ve hit that wall now where it’s hard to find numbered cans that

aren’t so rare they cost a fortune,” he said.

His rarest can is a white A-1 Beer test can from Phoenix, and there are

only three known to exist. You can see it at beerbythenumbers.com.

By Evan S. Benn

18

By Evan S


ery Dec. 26, theeer prices rolled back to what

tion that Schlafly and othertle against the Big Breweriesup again after InBev’s 2008f Schlafly beer had the new

33

TURE

rthday party with all bebout $3 a pint.)

conceptath batte heatedmakers ofbrewery.

Others now specialize in number beer cans, but Conroy, 46, says,

“I’m the original.”Bob Chapman of St. Louis County remembers getting a call at

11:35 one night from another collector who thought he had a can

he might want. When he brought over the can and Chapman saw

that it was a black St. Louis ABC Old English Ale can, “it took me

five seconds to say yes,” he recalls, pointing to the can, one of only

five known to still exist in this country.

The Lever Bros. retiree once had 20,194 cans but now specializes

in Missouri collectibles and cans, including Muehlbach, Country

Club, Fishbach and Capital beers. He’s partial to items from

Griesedieck Brothers in St. Louis and M.K. Goetz Brewing Co. in

St. Joseph, Mo., partly because so many people in St. Louis are

focused on Anheuser-Busch memorabilia, he explains.

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By Evan S. Benn

19


Pasta SaladBy Fabrizio Schenardi , Cielo restaurant

Serves | 4 to 6 |

1 lb dried tri-color fusilli pasta2 red bell peppers

2 cups fresh green beans1 chicken breast

salt and freshly ground black pepper6 to 8 strips bacon, cooked and crumbled

½ cup green Sicilian and kalamata olives, quartered1 small jar sundried tomatoes, drained and julienned

5 to 6 fresh basil leaves, julienned¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil¼ cup balsamic vinegar

| Preparation | Boil pasta over high heat until al dente, about 8 minutes. Drainand set aside to cool. roast red peppers under the broiler or over an open flame,turning often, until skin is blistered. Place in a brown paper bag and let cool. removepeppers from bag, peel off skins, remove seeds and julienne the flesh. set aside.

Bring a large pot full of water to a boil. Blanche the green beans by placing themin the boiling water, then submerging them in cold water to stop the cookingprocess. remove from cold water and cut into bite-sized pieces. set aside.

Brush chicken breast with a light coating of olive oil, and season with salt andpepper. Grill until cooked through. let cool, and then cut into cubes.

in a large mixing bowl, combine pasta, roasted redpeppers, green beans, chicken, bacon, olives, sundriedtomatoes and basil. in a small mixing bowl, whisktogether olive oil and balsamic vinegar. season to tastewith salt and pepper. Pour dressing over pasta saladand toss to combine. refrigerate until cool.

Banana-Nutella CrêpesBy Fabrizio Schenardi , Cielo restaurant

This recipe is easily altered to createdifferent crêpes.Simply add spices or lemon zest to thebatter, andfillwith desired spreads, cheeses, fruits, veggies ormeats.

Yield | eight 9-inch crêpes |

3 eggs1/3 cup all-purpose flour2 cups milk1 dash vanilla extract

canola oil1 jar nutella

4 bananas, dividedconfectioners’ sugar

| Preparation | in a large mixing bowl, whisk together eggs and flour untilsmooth. slowly add milk, while whisking, and then vanilla. if desired, batter canbe made ahead and refrigerated for 2 to 3 days. Coat a nonstick pan with canolaoil and heat to medium. ladle the batter onto the pan in a paper-thin layer. Cookuntil batter begins to bubble and rise, about 1 to 2 minutes, and then flip. Cookan additional 1 to 2 minutes. repeat until batter is gone, and let crêpes cool.

on each crêpe, spread a thin layer of nutella. Cut ½ a banana into thin slices andarrange on the crêpe. Fold in half, then in quarter. Dust with sugar and serve.

*Tomake the crêpe into a roll (which can be easier for kids to handle), spreadwith

nutella, then place awhole banana in themiddle of the crêpe and roll tightly. Cut into 6

bite-sized pieces.

loreNzo’S luNCh #2: PaSta Salad+ BaNaNa-Nutella CrêPeS


ELLiE CrafT, 5½ OLivE CrafT, 3 When your dad is Gerard Craft, chef and partner ofNiche, Brasserie by Niche, Taste Bar and the highlyanticipated Pasteria by Niche on the way, you couldprobably ask for – and get – just about anything.

So it’s a bit ironic that when tasked with imaginingher dream lunch, Ellie’s request was for Lunchables.To keep both girls engaged – from concept to delivery– Dad-Chef decided on gourmet takes on the classics.The “lunchable” menu included pork shoulder (yes, hecooked it for 14 hours) with Marcoot Jersey Creamerycheese and crackers. Carrots with yogurt ranchdressing rounded out the tray of goodies.

More gourmet classics followed with a fluffer nuttersandwich made with soy butter and homemade fluffaccompanied by made-from-scratch peaches-by-the-foot. Ellie’s inspiration was brilliant, and her dadwas able to elevate beloved lunchbox fare into adelectable dream come true.


Broadway. Family style.

September 27 - October 9 • Fabulous Fox Theatre

www.TheAddamsFamilyMusical.com

Tickets: The Fox Box Office • 314-534-1111 • MetroTix.com®

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Come Visit... The NewestWinery in Augusta.Family owned, Noboleis Vineyards, begins it's first full season offering a full line of Estate-grown, award-winning Missouri wines. Come join us for lunch and take in the views ofthe rolling vineyards surrounding the winery.

Open daily until 5pmMusic on weekends May-Octobervisit our website to check out upcoming events www.noboleisvineyards.com100 hemsath rd.augusta mo 63332636.482.4500 No

boleis Vineyards


ELLiE’S & OLivE’S LunchabLES:carrOTS wiTh YOgurT ranchDrESSing + crackEr SnackErS-Or- FLuFFEr nuTTEr SanDwich+ PEach FruiT bY ThE FOOT

carrots with Yogurt ranch DressingBy Gerard Craft , craft restaurants ltd.

1 cup aïoli¼ cup buttermilk½ cup plain Greek yogurt½ tsp onion powder½ tsp garlic powder1 tsp fresh lemon juice1 tsp minced chives1 tsp minced flat-leaf parsley1 tsp minced mint

kosher saltraw baby carrots, peeled

| Preparation | Place aïoli in a large bowl. Whisk in buttermilk,followed by yogurt through salt. If the dressing is too thick, adda little buttermilk to thin it out. serve with carrots.

Fluffer nutter SandwichBy Gerard Craft , craft restaurants ltd.

¼ cup water1 cup corn syrup1 cup sugar

2 egg whites½ tsp vanilla extract¼ tsp cream of tartar

bread slicessoy butter

| Preparation | In a saucepan, heat water, sugar and syrupto 235°f. Meanwhile, in a stand mixer fitted with the whiskattachment, whip egg whites, vanilla and cream of tartar tosoft peaks. Once sugar is at temperature, slowly pour intothe whites while the whisk is moving at medium speed. Whipmixture until it is cool.

cut small rounds from the bread of your choice using a cookiecutter and pipe on some soy butter (or peanut butter if your kidcan have it). Pipe on a little marshmallow fluff and, if you want,you can blow torch the top.

STarTEr

Main Lunch #1


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Pork Shoulder with Cheese and CrackersBy Gerard Craft , craft restaurants ltd.

1 cup salt1 cup sugar

16 thyme sprigs2 cloves garlic, crushed

1 boneless pork shoulder1 block Marcoot Jersey Creamery Cheddar

crackers

| Preparation | combine salt, sugar, thyme and garlic, and rub liberally allover the shoulder (you don’t need to use all of it but be sure to create a thickcoating). let sit over night. the next day, cold smoke the shoulder for 2 hours.cook at 150°f for 14 hours. remove from oven, wrap in plastic wrap and pressunder weight. Once cooled down and set, slice into 3-ounce cube portions.served sliced thin and cold with cheese and crackers.

Peach Fruit by the FootBy Gerard Craft , craft restaurants ltd.

3 peaches, pits removed5 Tbsp simple syrup

| Preparation | Purée peaches and syrupin a blender until very smooth. Pour someof the liquid onto a piece of acetate andspread into an even layer. Place in fooddehydrator at 125°f and dry until it has theconsistency of a fruit roll up.

cut 1-inch by 12-inch strips of parchment(or however long you want them to be).cut slightly skinnier strips of the fruit andlay them on the paper very carefully. rollup to look like tape.

MAIN LUNCH #2

DESSERT


This high-energy crew of cousins pack a pretty fiercelunchbox. Their moms are St. Louis food mediamavens, Margaret and Bridget Kelly (aka, The KellyTwins, who currently produce Twice Baked, a cookingshow on bluehighwaystv.com), and the kids haveabsorbed their moms’ interest in and passion forhealthy eating.

Their lunchtime choices reflect that practicalwholesomeness. Whole grain breads take centerstage. Fresh fruits and vegetables are packed withevery lunch. High-quality lunch meats, granola barsand juices made with whole fruits are thoughtfullyincluded. From homemade quesadillas and bagelsandwiches to fresh fruit smoothies and an apples-and-oats dessert, each lunch is designed to energizeand provide steady going through the day.

HeaLTHy everyday OpTiOnScheck it out!

Feastextra

HOw dO yOu geT kidS TO aSk fOr THiS kind Of LuncH?head to feastStL.com to read our Q&A with the kelly twins and get recipes for some of thecousins’ favorite healthy lunchtime treats.

Pictured from left to right:

aidan OwenS, 7Liam OwenS, 10Jack rieS, 11TayLOr rieS, 15

Serving your child their fantasy school lunch isn’t aneveryday possibility. Instead, parents dream of incitingexcitement with whole grains and whole foods (and awhole lot of ‘em). We found four kids whose idea of agreat lunch is actually most parents’ fantasies.


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For 20 years, BoB MephaMwore down the road between Bayou

Lafourche, in Louisiana, and UniversityCity. one man. one truck. packed to the

gills (if you’ll pardon the pun) with fish.

he was a piscine prophet attempting tospread the gospel of Gulf seafood to a city with

an appetite for meatless meals that didn’textend much past Lenten obligations. When

Mepham opened Bob’s seafood’s outdoorstalls in 1978 in The Loop, he was one ofonly a few fish merchants in the area.

“your stores had very little ... when wewere outside, in The Loop, there werevery few places selling fish here,”he recalls. “We had two stalls, andthere were two counters there.

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“It was all open air. We sold on Saturday, only out of icechests. I got back with the truck about 6 or 7 Saturdaymorning and sold all day, ‘til we were out of seafood andready for a few days off.”

But like any good evangelist, Mepham remainedundaunted. Each week, he would dutifully drive down toBayou Lafourche and, from a dock or boat, hand-pick theselections he wanted to sell back home.

As more people discovered the once-a-week-wonder fishmerchant, appetites for seafood increased. Mepham’sgospel spread, and his business grew. In 1988, Bob’sSeafood moved indoors, into a 900-square-foot storesteps away from the original stalls. Mepham also rentedfreezer space in Maplewood so his company could bettercater to area restaurants.

Soon after, Mepham was no longer going to the fish; thefish were coming to him. St. Louis had converted. AndBob’s Seafood needed a much bigger sanctuary.

“It was a cryin’ need for more space” that brought Mephamto the company’s current location, a 12,000-square-foot

shop on Olive Boulevard, just a block east of I-170.The benefits for customers and staff of

finally having walk-in freezers andcoolers on-site, a spacious cutting

room for processing fish, anda greatly expanded retail areareadily outweigh any nostalgia

for the prior digs.

“We don’t see nearly as many bizarre-looking people aswe used to,” laughs Mepham. “And if we want to go out tolunch, we can’t just walk across the street or down theblock. We have to get in the car. We were in The Loop fora long time, and we kind of miss it a bit now and then. Butthe new place is great; it was the right move to make.”

These days, a fleet of Bob’s Seafood trucks whizzes to theairport, the store and almost 200 client restaurants andkitchens – in contrast to the days of Mepham’s solitaryruns to the bayou. Although the scale of the companyhas changed considerably over 33 years, the qualityof the company’s seafood remains the same. Whetherhe’s standing on docks, pointing out picks from just-arrived fishing boats, or placing orders with distributorsworldwide, Mepham ensures only the best of the catch isdelivered to St. Louis tables.

His dedication to excellence has led to lastingpartnerships.

“Bob’s Seafood and I have been working together since1989. It was the first truly consistent local seafoodsupplier I could find,” says executive chef Lou Rook III ofAnnie Gunn’s and the Smokehouse Market.

“Bob built his business on freshness, quality andpersonalized service. It could be Viking Village scallops,golden tilefish or canyon run tuna; the quality of theseafood is always the best or Bob’s will not offer it.”

And, on any given day, Bob’s Seafood offers a lot. On theretail side of the store, lobsters sleepily bobble about ina large, glass-walled tank. Display cases run nearly thelength of the room, starting with mussels and tins of lump


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crab meat then switching to increasingly more colorful,glossier cuts of trout, shark, salmon and tuna. A handfulof young men orbit around behind the counter, takingorders and filling bags with ice or lemons. Barb Mephamzips between them, instinctively finding that onepuzzled customer and providing friendly, fishy wisdom.

“She’s so much better at dealing with people than I am,”says her husband. “She’s so good at it. This is what I do,”he says, gesturing toward the many stacks of receipts,invoices and other papers piled on his desk. “I try to keepthe bills paid.”

Of course, he’s also hard at work ordering the seafoodthat earns consistent kudos from local chefs and savvyhome cooks for his shop’s extensive selection and theexceptional quality of its seafood.

“I’ve used Bob’s since I was at An American Place, sogoing on six years,” says Josh Galliano, executive chef

at Monarch Restaurant and Southern Bistro.

“I always get Gulf crab from Bob’s. Everyone elseusually carries pasteurized and canned crab, and thatequals tasteless. Bob’s stocks Gulf blue crab meat,and they actually know what I mean by ‘gumbo crabs’.’ ”

From Mepham’s perspective, it’s his customers whohave been steadily raising the bar.

“Everyone’s gotten more sophisticated,” he explains.“When we first started, people were happy to get somesalmon. Now, people are much more knowledgeableabout food. They want to know what river [the salmon]came out of, and when and who caught it, and whatschool it went to.”

That’s the kind of knowledge Anne Cori seeks when sheinvites students to Mepham’s shop as part of a KitchenConservatory class on fish and seafood. Only about half ofher students are aware of Bob’s Seafood before the class;she takes them there so they can expand their familiaritywith the many available varieties of fish and shellfish.

“This class is to demystify fish and shellfish for thecustomer … to learn how to cook things other thansalmon and shrimp,” Cori says.

“Bob’s, because they’re both wholesale and retail, iswonderful for that. They get a bigger variety of fish thanwhat’s available at the supermarkets. I mean, I don’tthink I’ve ever seen escolar in the supermarket. ButBob’s usually has escolar.”

Cori’s association with Mepham is two decades old. Thefirst class she led at Kitchen Conservatory was in 1991 asa substitute teacher; Mepham was supposed to lead theclass on fish, but asked Cori to fill in at the last moment.Now owner and president of Kitchen Conservatory, Coricredits Mepham’s innocuous request with getting herwhere she is today.

If Mepham has a request of his own, it’s that customersuse common sense when they pick fish.

“There are a lot of people that think if they eat just rightthey’re gonna get out of this world alive,” he chuckles.

So Mepham imparts some wisdom to Cori’s students.

“We meet at Bob’s, and we go through what’s in the case,”says Cori. “Then we get to go back in the cutting room,and Bob usually will give them a presentation on what’s‘on his mind today’ in the world of fish.”

Mepham is quick to endorse the various farm-raised fishhe offers. While his farm-raised selection comes fromall over the world, he says his personal favorites arethe ruby, golden and rainbow trout farmed in the SnakeRiver Valley of Idaho.

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“That [farmed] trout is as good as any you’re going to eat,”he says. “Maybe, there’s some stream some place that hasbrook trout that have just a little bit better flavor, but I don’tknow where it is, and I don’t have time to go fish in it.”

That’s not to say Mepham downplays wild seafood.He calls Copper River king salmon “the very best ofeverything.” But he understands that given its price, it’snot for everyone. Instead, he advises customers to get themost out of what they can reasonably afford.

“The good, Scottish farm-raised salmon is probably 95percent as good [as wild salmon]. But if you want thatextra 5 percent, you’ll start paying for it. It’s like a $250bottle of wine against a really good $12 bottle of wine.They’re still both so far ahead of Boone’s Farm, you know?”

That kind of attention to customer service – ensuringthat good value and good quality go hand in hand – hasbeen paramount in developing the great word-of-mouthadvertising Bob’s Seafood enjoys. Satisfied customersspread the word to co-workers, friends and family.

Katie Lee’s association with Bob’s Seafood began at heraunt Zoe Robinson’s pan-Asian restaurant, Bobo NoodleHouse. When Lee opened Katie’s Pizzeria in RichmondHeights in 2008, Bob’s Seafood was the obvious sourcefor seafood. “They give me such really good service, evenif we order in the afternoon – especially if we order in theafternoon,” Lee says.

“I get lobster, tuna, shrimp, mussels and the head-onlangostinos,” Lee reels off. “The quality has always beenwonderful.”

Orders from Bob’s Seafood end up all over Lee’s menu,from a Tuscan grilled shrimp salad with clementines to asmoked-salmon pizza.

“Everything I have ever tried to do is to be innovative andprogressive, to keep our food on the cutting edge. Forthe last 22 years, Bob’s Seafood has been a major part ofit,” says Rook, who names Mepham’s shop as one of thesources for the Mexican white shrimp used exclusively inAnnie Gunn’s famous smoked shrimp.

“I know that Bob and [manager] Phil [Nekic] are always outthere looking for something on the edge for Annie’s. Youhave to have great relationships like that to succeed.”

The success Mepham has enjoyed is also evident in St.Louis’ gradual transformation from a city that could barelymuster crab Rangoon to a place where salmon pizza andceviche seem right at home on a menu. His lightly cynicalwit notwithstanding, Mepham seems genuinely pleased atthe city’s evolution.

Ironically, the seafood evangelist admits to a personalconversion, himself.

“Before I got into this business, I would always eat fishwhen I went to a restaurant,” he grins. “Now, we take so

much [fish] home and cook it that when we go out ... Iwant a beefsteak.”


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Smoked Tunawith Red Pepper KetchupBy Anne Cori , Kitchen conservatory

This recipe canaccommodateany cut,weight or variety oftunayouprefer. AsCori says, “Whatever looksbest to youatBob’s!” Larger cutswill require longer smoking times.The ketchup recipe yields 1½cups.

4 red bell peppers¾ cup chopped onion½ cup red wine vinegar½ tsp salt1 cup brown sugar

1 tuna fillet, preferred weight and cutsalt and freshly ground black pepper

1 Tbsp smoking dust

| Preparation | Place peppers on a burner and cook untilburnt. Place in a bowl, cover with plastic wrap and let cool,about 20 minutes. Peel the skin. cut off the pulp of thepeppers and remove the ribs and seeds. Place peppers ina saucepan with the onion, vinegar, salt and brown sugar.Bring to a boil. simmer until thickened, about 20 minutes.Purée in a food processor or blender. set aside.

season tuna with salt and pepper, and place in a stovetopsmoker with smoking dust in the bottom. insert a probethermometer in the fish to monitor the temperature. heaton high until wisps of smoke appear, and then reduce heatto low. smoke tuna until the internal temperature is 120ºFwhile keeping the oven temperature of the smoking boxbelow 200ºF. remove, slice and serve with the ketchup.

Tuna Niçoise SaladBy KAtie Lee , Katie’s Pizzeria

Serves | 1 |

CAperVinAigrette

1 part extra-virgin olive oil2 parts fresh lemon juice

1 part caperssalt and freshly ground black pepper

SALAd

1 6-oz fillet ahi tunaextra-virgin olive oillemon juicesalt and freshly ground black pepper

4 fingerling potatoes, halved8-10 green beans

2 handfuls mixed field greens1 hard-boiled egg, quartered

1 handful niçoise olives3 caper berries

| Preparation – Caper Vinaigrette | in a food processor,blend ingredients. season to taste with salt and pepper.

| Preparation – Salad | Preheat oven to 400ºF. Brush tunawith oil and lemon juice, and season to taste with salt andpepper. Grill to rare and slice ¼-inch thick. toss potatoeswith olive oil and salt and roast until caramelized. repeatto roast beans. on a plate, make a bed of mixed fieldgreens. Lay the ingredients over the greens in sections,like a pie chart: sliced tuna, potatoes, green beans, eggand niçoise olives. top with caper berries and drizzle withcaper vinaigrette.


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Maple-Glazed HalibutBy Anne Cori , Kitchen conservatory

¼ cup fish sauce½ cup maple sugar1 Tbsp sesame oil

1 shallot, minced1 2-inch piece of ginger, grated

¼ tsp freshly ground black pepper1 tsp fresh thyme leaves

6 halibut fillets, each about 5 oz

| Preparation | Whisk together fish sauce, sugar, oil,shallot, ginger, pepper and thyme, and pour over the fishan hour before cooking. remove fish from the marinade.in a hot skillet, sear the halibut on one side. turn over, pourin the rest of the marinade and finish cooking on mediumheat to desired doneness. Plate fish and serve withleftover glaze from the pan.

Lobster PizzaBy KAtie Lee , Katie’s Pizzeria

Serves | 4 to 6 |

1 lb pizza doughextra-virgin olive oil

2 cloves garlic, chopped¼ cup shredded fontina and parmesan cheeses4 to 5 basil leaves

½ lb lobster meat, cut into chunks8 ramps

1 pinch pine nutssalt and freshly ground black pepper

| Preparation | Place pizza stone in oven and preheatto 500ºF. roll out pizza dough into a 12-inch disc. Brushdough generously with oil. sprinkle evenly with choppedgarlic and cheeses. Place basil leaves, green side up, onthe pizza. top with generous chunks of lobster. Placeramps on the pizza in a pinwheel pattern and sprinkle withpine nuts. season to taste with salt and pepper and bake

for 10 to 12 minutes.

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Don’t miss your chance to interact directly with theseprofessionals and mingle with your fellow food lovers.

JOIN US!PS

IRONkids Cooking CompetitionMon., Sept. 19, 5:30 to 9:30pm; Third Degree Glass Factory,

discoveringoptions.org/Events.php

Five teams of kids, led by St. Louis’ finest chefs, square off in this eventto benefit Discovering Options.

Green Homes & Great HealthSat., Sept. 24, 9am to 5pm; Missouri Botanical Garden, greenhomesstlouis.org

Discover the many ways that plants, air, water, soil and energy sustain ourhomes, our health and our Earth.

Schnucks CooksCooking ClassWed., Sept. 28, 6pmSchnucks Cooks Cooking Schoolschnuckscooks.comor 314.909.1704

Get hands-on at our monthlySchnucks class and make the porkwith port featured on page 42.

PHOTO BY Jennifer Silverberg

Art of FoodSat., Sept. 10, 6 to 10pm; Koken Art Factory, artoffoodstl.com

The area’s best chefs merge in one spot to celebrate local ingredientsand benefit Slow Food St. Louis.

FEAST’senewsletterkeeps youupdated on thelatest culinaryhappenings inSt. Louis. Signup today atfeastSTL.com,so you DON’TMISS OUT!

FEAST’SFREEWEEKLY ENEWSLETTER

FEAST’s

WEEKLY ENEWSLETTER

CAN IT!WRITTEN BY Michael Sweeney | PHOTOGRAPHY BY Michael Feher

O’Fallon Brewery’s O’Fallon WheachMany times it almost seems like fruit is just a gimmick in beer.O’Fallon Brewery does a fantastic job of proving the proverb“less is more” in making a fruit beer. This wheat beer has justenough peach flavor to enhance, rather than detract from, theoverall experience. Enjoy a hot dog in one hand and a Wheach inthe other. There are few better backyard barbecue experiences.

AVAILABLE AT: The Wine & Cheese Place, multiple locations,wineandcheeseplace.com; $15.99 (12-pack, 12-oz cans)

Ska Brewing Co.’s Modus HoperandiWhen you crack open the can, the first thing you’ll notice is that italmost explodes with a bountiful hop aroma that’s reminiscent ofpine trees and grapefruit. Although there’s definitely a good amountof bitterness, Ska does a great job of providing just enough maltsweetness to balance it out. With the way this beer bursts forth, it’salmost a shame Ska didn’t call it Hop Hand Grenade instead.

AVAILABLE AT: Whole Foods Market, multiple locations,wholefoodsmarket.com; $9.99 (6-pack, 12-oz cans)

Big Sky Brewing Co.’s Moose DroolToo often, you pour a beer from a can, and it’s pretty much thesame straw color as every other canned beer. So it’s refreshingto see something like Big Sky Brewing Co.’s Moose Drool poura luscious brown color. This brown beer looks heavy, but its lowalcohol (4.2 percent abv) keeps it from being too filling. It’s verychocolatly, with a slight bit of roast that makes it perfect forthose cooler September evenings.

AVAILABLE AT: Friar Tuck, multiple locations, friartuck.com;$8.99 (6-pack, 12-oz cans)

Avery Brewing Co.’sJoe’s Premium American PilsnerGood things come to those who wait, and the wait for this beerwas certainly worth it. Although Avery Brewing Co. has beencanning some of its fantastic beer for a while, we weren’t able toget it in St. Louis until now. This pilsner is clean and very dry. Butit’s definitely a beer where the earthy noble German hops are thestar of the show. Joe’s Premium is certainly a bitter beer, but ifthat’s up your alley, it’s also quite sessionable at 4.7 percent abv.

AVAILABLE AT: International Tap House, multiple locations,internationaltaphouse.com; $1.25 (12-oz can), $4 (bar price)

Robert Cain Brewery’s Cains Finest BitterDon’t let the name fool you, Cains Finest Bitter is anything butbitter. Instead, you’ll be treated to a delightfully malty beer that’sextremely quaffable. Its low, 4 percent abv keeps the alcoholin check, which makes for a very sessionable beer. Being lowin alcohol doesn’t mean it’s low in flavor. Cains Finest Bitter isslightly sweet, with a nice bit of dried fruit in the aroma.

AVAILABLE AT: 33 Wine Shop & Tasting Bar, 1913 Park Ave.,Lafayette Square, 33wine.com; $1.73 (14.9-oz can)

In the dark days before craft beer exploded in the United States, the aluminum canwas solely the home of pale American lager. But as craft brewers have begun to grow,they’ve realized what the big guys have known for quite some time: The aluminumcan may be the finest vessel for beer transportation. A can is lighter than glass andcheaper to ship. Cans are impervious to sunlight and keep your beer from gettingskunky. A can cools down faster, which means you enjoy your beer quicker. And, bestof all, cans go places bottles can’t.

Aluminum cans bring craft beer to the beach, pool, golf course and that most sacredof outdoor adventures, the float trip. If you’re looking for something different for yournext outing, here are some choices that will do the job well. (Cans are one of the hottestcommodities in beer today and sell out quickly. Grab them while they’re available!)

Caldera Brewing Co.’s IPAAlthough the Pacific Northwest is one of the biggest brewingregions in the U.S., there aren’t a lot of Oregon beers available inMissouri. One sip of Caldera Brewing Co.’s IPA and you’ll quicklyrealize that the region is where we get all of these fantasticallyfloral American hops. Its light body allows the hop flavor,reminiscent of apricots and grass, to be the star of the show.

AVAILABLE AT: Lukas Liquor, 15921 Manchester Road, Ellisville,lukasliquorstl.com; $13.99 (6-pack, 12-oz cans)

Tallgrass Brewing Co.’sHalcyon Unfiltered WheatBeing in Kansas, Tallgrass Brewing Co. knows a thing or twoabout wheat. This seasonal beer spotlights raw Kansas whitewheat, which helps give the beer a light creaminess. With subtlefruitiness, including lemons and oranges, you can hold the lemonon this one. It’s the perfect beer after a long day in the sun.

AVAILABLE AT: Randall’s Wine and Spirits, select locations,shoprandalls.com; $7.49 (6-pack, 12-oz cans)

IF YOU’RE GOING ON THAT LAST-CHANCEFISHING OR CAMPING TRIP OUTSIDE ST.LOUIS, BE ON THE LOOKOUT FOR THESEFANTASTIC REGIONAL CRAFT BEERS:

Capital Brewery’s Supper Club (Wisconsin)Here’s a secret: Brewing lager beers is difficult. They’re time-consuming, and since many of them are very light, they don’t hideflaws. Capital Brewery, out of Middleton, Wis., is one of the finestlager breweries in the world. Its signature Supper Club harkensback to the days when pale lager was brewed with all malt, whichgives it a bit more body than your standard pale lager. SupperClub is a great beer if you’re looking to give craft beer a shot.

AVAILABLE IN: Wisconsin, Minnesota, northern Illinois;capital-brewery.com

Southern Star Brewing Co.’sBombshell Blonde (Texas)Blonde ales have been known to get a bad rap. Sure, they’renot as in your face as a smoked-whiskey-barrel-aged IPA. Butsometimes you just want something to sit back and drink withoutthinking about it. Southern Star Brewing Co.’s blonde ale is anunpretentious beer with a pleasant grainy aroma and a subtlesweetness that comes from German Vienna malts. BombshellBlonde proves that blonde beers don’t have to be boring.

AVAILABLE IN:Alabama, northern Illinois, Indiana, Kentucky,Louisiana, Ohio, South Carolina, Texas; southernstarbrewery.com

Oskar Blues Brewery’sTen FIDY Imperial Stout (Colorado)Black as night and very viscous, it’s no surprise how often thisbeer gets compared to motor oil. But this canned beer is nogimmick; it’s one of the best imperial stouts in the world. Thevelvety brew is very roasty, with slight hints of coffee andchocolate that meld beautifully with the creaminess of the beer.Although it would pair well with almost any chocolate dessert, itworks perfectly as a dessert all on its own.

AVAILABLE IN: Arizona, California, Colorado, Florida, Georgia,Maine, Maryland, Nevada, New Jersey, New Mexico, New York,Oregon, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, South Carolina, Tennessee,Texas, Virginia, Washington, Washington, D.C., Wisconsin;oskarblues.com

DOCKSIDE diningSTORY AND RecipeS bY Erik Jacobs | phOTOgRAphY bY Wesley Law

ShOT ON lOcATiON AT bOulDeR YAchT club, cARlYle lAke


life’s simple pleasures, dinner

duty doesn’t seem appealing.

Noworries. Beer in hand, you

will feed the crew in style. Take

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composed dishes. The focus

here is on bright flavor, light

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When you’respending the finalhazy days of theseason on a gentlyrocking boat enjoying


Roasted-Pepper Bruschettawith Lemon Chèvre andSummer Savory

There’s something seductive about a dishwitha variety of contrasting textures and colors.This easy appetizer flirtswith the crunchyartisan bread, supple strips of roasted pepper(you can roast thembefore heading to laketo cut downon prep) and creamy chèvre.Therich colors of the peppers play against theyellow-fleckedwhite of the cheese and theverdant green of the summer savory. Best ofall, the dish tastes really amazing.

Serves | 6 to 8 |

1 crusty artisan baguette, sliced ona diagonal ½-inch thick, 15-18 slicesolive oil

3 bell peppers (a variety of colors)8 oz chèvre, at room temperature

1 lemon, zested and juicedkosher salt and freshly groundblack pepper to taste

3 Tbsp summer savory, leaves only

| Preparation | Toast or grill bread slices,making sure they get nice and crisp. Afterbread is toasted, brush one side with a bit ofolive oil to help retain moisture.

Roast the peppers under a broiler or on thegrill until skins are charred. Place peppers intoa paper bag for at least 15 minutes to allow theaccumulated steam to help loosen the skinsfrom the flesh. When cool enough to handle,pull the charred skin from the peppers, discardthe seeds and slice the peppers into ¼-inchstrips. Set aside.

In a small mixing bowl, add chèvre, lemonzest, 1 Tbsp lemon juice, and salt and pepperto taste. Mix well, until cheese is spreadable.Add a touch of olive oil if the cheese is still toothick to spread.

Just before serving, slather toasts with thechèvre , about 1 Tbsp per piece. Top withpeppers. A few drops of olive oil, a grind ofblack pepper and a sprinkling of the summersavory complete this dish.


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Mahi-mahi Ceviche in Avocado Cups

The essence of the dock party is simple elegance. Thepracticality is that it’s so damn hot you don’t really wantto cook. Enter ceviche. Fresh fish is cubed,marinatedand “cooked” in citrus juice andmixedwith sweet onions,spicy peppers, vibrant herbs and crunchy vegetables.Bright summer flavors are served in a creamy halvedavocado. Everything is ice cold and not a burner is ignited.Refreshing defined.

Serves | 6 |

1 lb mahi-mahi or swordfish, cut into ¼-inch cubes4 limes, juiced

2 Tbsp olive oil½ medium red onion, very thinly sliced2 serrano chiles, seeded and chopped fine1 cucumber, seeded and cut into ¼-inch cubes

1 cup peeled jicama, cut into ¼-inch cubes½ cup chopped cilantro, plus 2 Tbsp for garnish1 Tbsp honey½ tsp kosher salt½ tsp freshly ground black pepper

3 avocados6 cups finely julienned napa cabbage

| Preparation | About 3 hours before serving the ceviche,combine all ingredients except the avocado and cabbage, andmix well. Refrigerate immediately, and stir ingredients every45 minutes or so to keep flavors blended. Just before serving,cut avocados in half, and remove the stones. To prevent theavocados from wobbling when you fill them, make a small cuton the skin side of each avocado parallel to the cut side.

Arrange a cup or so of cabbage on six chilled plates.Nestle an avocado half on top, and fill with about ½ cup ofceviche. Sprinkle cups with remaining cilantro and serve.


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Mediterranean“Dock” Shrimp

The summer has beenfilledwith gut-bustingbarbecues, greasy backyard burgers andFlintstones-sized roasts. Oh yes,meat-centric overindulgence has its time andplace. But here on the boat, you need toretain a sharp sense ofwit and not fallprey to the swoon that often follows thecarnal pleasure of stuffingamedium-rareporterhouse steak down your gullet. Grillingshrimp is quick (just a couple ofminutes oneach side) and easy (though you canmake itseemas complicated as youwish). Shrimpare packedwith flavorwithout amassivecaloric content. So you can feed yourself aton of these littlemorsels and still enjoy theillusion of gluttony. Full steamahead!

Serves | 6 |

5 lbs Gulf shrimp (the larger the better),shells on, deveined

¾ cup olive oil¼ cup chopped garlic1 Tbsp Dijon-style mustard

2 large lemons, juiced1 Tbsp white wine vinegar2 Tbsp honey1 Tbsp freshly ground black pepper

2 tsp kosher salt¼ cup fresh oregano, plus 3 Tbsp

for garnishvegetable oil

| Preparation | Butterfly the shrimp bycutting them in half lengthwise, being carefulnot to separate the halves. Press the shrimpflat, and place in a baking dish shell sidedown. Refrigerate while making marinade.

Place remaining ingredients, except oreganofor garnish and vegetable oil, into a blender,and purée for about 15 seconds. Pour overshrimp, and marinate for about 1 hour.

Get your grill very hot. Lightly oil grateswith a paper towel dipped in vegetable oil.Immediately place shrimp flesh side downon the grill perpendicular to the grates,so you get good grill marks on the flesh.Cooking time varies depending on the size ofthe shrimp. Look for the shells to turn pinkas the shrimp cook. Once you have a goodsear, about 2 to 3 minutes, turn the shrimpover and cook shell side down, 1 to 2 minutes.This will protect the flesh from direct heatwhile allowing maximum moisture retention.Remove the shrimp, garnish with oreganoand serve family style on a large platter.


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Check the Let’s Eat section of the Post-Dispatch everyWed. in September for more great party recipes!

FEAST EXTRA

Toasted Pound Cakewith Fresh Summer Berriesand Rebecca Sauce

First of all, you’re correct. Chocolate is the king of alldesserts. No arguments here. However, when the heatindex reaches your (real) golf score, then perhapschocolate loses someof its appeal. If the humidity clingsand the late summer sun swelters, look to cool summerberries to provide sweet relief.

Serves | 6 |

1 pint raspberries1 pint blackberries1 pint blueberries

1 quart strawberries, sliced in half1 Tbsp sugar

8 oz sour cream¼ cup brown sugar¼ cup dark rum

1 Entenmanns pound cake, cut into 1-inch slicesmint leaves, for garnish

| Preparation | Wash berries and mix together. Addsugar, and let macerate for at least 30 minutes.

In a small bowl, mix sour cream, brown sugar and rumuntil blended. Let sit for 30 minutes, and then stir wellbefore serving.

Toast pound cake in toaster or under a broiler until lightlybrowned. Top each serving with 1 cup berry mixture, anddrizzle on Rebecca sauce. Garnish with fresh mint andserve immediately.

Cherry Tomato Couscous withCharred Corn and Zucchini

Late summer cherry tomatoes, sweet corn andzucchinimixedwith couscous canmake a tastybed for the grilled shrimp. Prepare thiswhile theshrimparemarinating. It’s served slightlywarmor at room temperature.

Serves | 6 |

1 cup chicken broth2 Tbsp ground coriander

1 tsp kosher salt, divided¾ cup couscous¼ cup olive oil

2 Tbsp red wine vinegar1 lb cherry tomatoes, halved

3 ears corn, grilled and kernels slicedoff the cob

2 small zucchini, grilled and cubed¼ tsp freshly ground black pepper

| Preparation | In a saucepan, bring chickenbroth to a boil. Stir in coriander, ½ tsp salt andcouscous. Remove from heat. Cover and let standfor 5 minutes. Fluff with a fork and keep covered.

Before serving, toss couscous mixture with oliveoil, vinegar, tomatoes, corn, zucchini, remainingsalt and pepper.


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Call 616-355-6387

Andrea Crossman

LARGE CLAYTON CONDO

(2950s.f.) 3 story modern with

elevator. 3 BR, 3+BA, 2 car secure

parking. 5 min walk to MetorLink.

$349,900

Offered by Jon D. Lieb Real Estate

314-781-5058

Call Bill Coller 314-799-6234

Owners retiring and ready/willing

to deal.

RUGS

FRENCHTOWN

RUG CLEANING

ORIENTAL/AREA RUGS

FREE PICK UP & DELIVERY

(636) 949-0753

www.frenchtownrugcleaning.com

SERVICES

$ CASH 4 OLD STUFF $

————Light Hauling————

We Cleanup, Haul Away and/or

purchase: Garage, Estate

and Moving Sales!

Also, Warehouse, Business &

Storage Locker Leftovers!

FAY FURNITURE

618-271-8200 AM

BRIAN'S HAULING

"U Name & We Haul It"

7 Days a Week - Same Day

Appliances, Brush, Clean Outs,

Demo, Basement & Garage, Etc.

Brian 314-740-1659

ALLEN'S HAULING SERVICE

15, 20 and 30 Yard Trash Containers.

Hauling Service.

No Job Too Big Or Small.

Any Type of Trash Removal.

314-621-0481 or 581-7274

TREES

(636) 274-1378

•Stone Retaining Walls•Stump Grinding•Bucket Truck Service

TREES TRIMMED& REMOVED

GILLSTREE SERVICE

Insured

TREES

SCRUPULOUS CARE

Tree & Crane Service

Stump Grinding Pruning

Storm Damage Licensed/Insured

Sam 314-330-9825

TUCKPOINTING

ALLTYPESTUCKPOINTINGServing St. Louis for over 40 years

DAN MILBOURNCONSTRUCTION INC.

Mortar Color MatchingBrick Cleaning Bricklaying

Stone WorkPower Washing Caulking

Waterproofing & Sealing

Written GuaranteeNo Job Too Small

Credit Cards AcceptedInsured

314-772-0190314-771-7622 FAX

STEVE GRESS TUCKPOINTING

Solids and Spot Tuckpointing with

Color Match.

Stone Basement Restoration.....

and More.

Prompt Free Estimates. Insured.

314-645-8991 or 636-947-2133

Member BBB MC/Visa Accepted

TUCKPOINTING

20 Years in Business!

6 Consecutive Service Award

Winner from '05-'10.

Complete Tuckpointing and Spot-

pointing with Color Match. Chimney,

Stone and Brick Repair, Waterproof-

ing. Fully Insured. Prompt Free Esti-

mates. A+ BBB rating.

(314) 645-1387

Credit Cards Accepted

Mirellituckpointing.com

VACATION RENTALS

GULF COAST

HOUSE OR CONDO

Carillon Beach, FL, Destin Area

3BR, 3BA, Beach House or Condo.

Carillon has 3 pools, tennis courts

and so much more! Avail. thru 2011.

Call Dave at 314-922-8344

Great Rates.

For Pictures Please Visit

www.vrbo.com/148365 or /127089

REGENTS PARK LONDON

Modern 2 Bedroom Apartment.

Convenient for Museums, Shopping,

Theater. Wireless Internet Access.

Highly Recommended.

Call 314-569-2009

WANTED

WANTED

CHINESE ANTIQUES

I AM BUYING

IVORY - JADE - VASES AND JARS

ART - HANGING SCROLLS

CLOISONNE - RARE PIECES

PLEASE CALL FOR APPOINTMENT

LADUE LOCATION

314-503-4847

COLLECTOR WISHES TO

PURCHASE

Gun Collections â Old and New

Antiques of Any Type Fishing Tackle

Call Steve Lapin

314-571-9427

GUNS WANTED

Licensed Federal Firearms Dealer

Top Price Paid ï Any Condition

YOU COME TO US OR WE'LL

COME TO YOU

636-233-4544 Ask For MARK

I BUY POSTCARDS!

Stereoviews, Old Photographs, Docu-

ments, Letterheads, Movie Photos,

Advertising, World's Fair, Railroad,

Military, Political, Nautical & More.

Mike 314-524-9400

splash Call 314/269-8810or email

[email protected]

for more information

with a larger ad andland future customers!

Make a

pull up a chair

written by Erin Callier

CLOSE ME TABLE“the Close Me table is an elegant complement to the Foley

barstool. the simple, straight lines and warm wood add texture,allowing the curvy design and detailing of the stool to play off oneanother. there is certainly a unique design quality to this pairing.”

David Blakely, Niche Home Furnishings

$3,644; NicheHomeFurnishings, 300N. Broadway, Downtown,nichestl.com

YOYO TABLE“the simplicity and modern lines of the yoyo table coordinate

nicely with the modern legs and finish of the Foley barstool. Ablack, solid surface top would create a stage to spotlight theintricate laser-cut leaf pattern on the back of the stool. i alsothink the pneumatic lift feature for adjusting the table heightadds a fun and functional design detail.”

Debra Kuhn, The Design Source Ltd.

ContactTheDesign Source Ltd. for table-top variations andpricing, thedesignsourceltd.com

OSLO BAR TABLE“the chic Oslo bar table is a perfect pair for the elegant Foley

barstool. the airiness of the Oslo’s tempered-glass top allowsthe stool’s delicate, laser-cut design to stand on its own as asculptural element. the clean, sleek lines of the table’s chromebase add just enough weight to keep the pairing grounded.everyday glamour defined.”

Melanie Holden, Holden Design Group

$269; zgallerie.com

FOlEY BarSTOllAs the summer draws to a close, we look at the delicate, laser-cut detailingof the Foley Barstool as a novel nod to the forthcoming fall foliage. Fall isalways too brief, but our affection for this nature-inspired, yet still modern,silhouette will last and last.

$400; Atom, atom-designs.com

Three designers pick simplebar tables to let this specialstool shine:

feastSTl.com SEPTEMBER 201182

15736 Manchester at Clarkson Rd. • (636) 391-9400 • 800-367-2289www.BommaritoInfiniti.com

*Based On 2010 Sales Summary Infiniti Motor Division, Nissan North America

West CountyINFINITISALES - SERVICE - PARTS - COLLISION REPAIR

"WHERE PRICE SELLS CARS"

Missouri's #1 Automotive GroupThere Can Only Be One #1

Source, bureau of Missouri Automotive registration 2010.

1.9%

MISSOURI'S #1 INFINITI RETAILER*

G25 SEDAN, G37 SEDAN, G37 COUPE,G37 CONVERTIBLE, EX35, FX35,

FX50, M37, M56, QX56

2011 INFINITI QX56

APRAVAILABLE

WITH MISSOURI'S LARGEST INVENTORY

English Rose “Trina” jacket, $258.

Call 1-800-345-5273to find a Dillard’s store near you.

Available at St.Louis Galleria & Chesterfield.

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Documents

September 2011 FEAST Magazine