issue

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AS T EMAKER S

Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis JANUARY 2013

feastSTL.com |

| FR

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2012 Schnucks

Wn Exceence !Certified Specialists of Wine We have the most Certified Specialists of Wine (CSW) in St. Louis. Theyll be happy to help you find some truly wonderful wines. For our complete list of CSWs and locations, visit schnucks.com

Great Wines at Great Savings! Whether youre looking for wine to serve or to cellar,our world-class selection rivals any specialty shop. Youll find fabulous wines produced locally and around the world. Plus, we offer special wine pricing when you buy six or more 750 ml bottles. Mix or match, its up to you!

Jan. 26-27, 2013The Chase Park Plaza Hotel

One-Day Admission Tickets On Sale at select Schnucks Courtesy Centers. For more information, visit www.repstl.org

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6 feastSTL.com J a n u a r y 2 0 1 3

COVER ILLUSTRATION BY Lisa Allen

Collaboration

40

JANUARY 2013 from the staff

| 10 | from the publisher Talking trends.

| 12 | feaststl.com Whats online this month.

| 14 | feast faVes Inspired ideas for tasteful living in St. Louis.

columNs| 24 | oNe oN oNe Mike Pappy Emerson digs into the local food scene.

| 26 | the mix Master a classic with the Manhattan.

| 28 | oN the shelf New and notable in beer, spirits and wine.

| 30 | mystery shopper Buy it and try it: Avocado oil.

| 32 | tech school Comfort in a cup: consomm.

| 34 | gadget a-go-go Put to the test: fine strainers.

| 36 | meNu optioNs Raise a fork to health and wealth with black-eyed pea salad.

| 66 | the last bite Pat Eby shares a slice of her favorite cake at Luvy Duvys Caf.

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AT STEAK HOUSE, you get more than an amazing steak. Here, every entre is served with

a hearty side of St. Louis spirit. Amidst stunning

Victorian-era architecture, choose from a

mouthwatering selection of dry-aged steaks or

sip more than diff erent wines from around

the world. Its the best place in the city to savor

and celebrate in true St. Louis fashion.

Enjoying the

has its rewards. Like mouthwatering side dishes.

7Inspired Food Culture J a n u a r y 2 0 1 3

Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis

Incubation Mobility

4856

R SAST TE AM KE

issue

the

L U M I E R E P L A C E . C O M

ENJOY THE FLAVORS OF VIETNAM. RIGHT IN ST. LOUIS.

SAVOR DELICIOUS VIETNAMESE SPECIALTIES Restaurant Hours: Sushi Bar Hours:

8 feastSTL.com J a n u a r y 2 0 1 3

Volume 4 | Issue 1 | January 2013

Publisher and EditorCatherine Neville

Managing Editor, Print ContentBrandi Wills

Managing Editor, Digital ContentKristin Brashares

Art DirectorLisa Allen

Vice President of AdvertisingDonna Bischoff

Copy Editors/Proofreaders Stephanie Witmer, Andrea Mongler

Contributing WritersTory Bahn, Brandon Chuang, Pat Eby

Chad Michael George, Erik Jacobs, Jennifer Johnson Jeremy Nulik, Angela Ortmann, Matt Seiter, Michael Sweeney

Andrew Mark Veety, Cassy Vires

Contributing PhotographersJonathan Gayman, Jonathan Pollack Jennifer Silverberg, Corey Woodruff

Contributing Videographer Hannah Radcliff

Contact UsFeast Media, 900 N. Tucker Blvd., 4th Floor

St. Louis, MO 63101feastSTL.com

Advertising InquiriesKelly Klein, 314.340.8562

kklein@stltoday.com

Commentspublisher@feastSTL.com

DistributionTo distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please

contact Tom Livingston at tlivingston@stldist.com.

Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned.

All contents are copyright 2010-2013 by Feast Magazine. All rights reserved.

Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited.

Produced by the Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLCJennifer A. Wood, publisher

Magazine

9Inspired Food Culture J a n u a r y 2 0 1 3

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Les Dames dEscoffier, an international organization of professional women in culinary fields, held its annual conference here in October. I was asked to give a talk that focused on industry trends. Sure, I said. Id love to. And

then I sat down to write.

After considering the current trends pickling, in-house butchery, artisan everything I realized that I wasnt interested

in discussing the trends themselves. As culinary professionals, everyone at the conference would already know what the

trends are. I wanted to explore what was giving rise to those trends. I focused in on what I see happening across the country

and here in St. Louis that is creating the platform for innovation: mobility, collaboration and incubation. That talk, in turn,

inspired the focus of this, our annual Tastemakers issue.

This month, we explore the concepts and the people establishing whats next in St. Louis food and drink. The scene is in constant

flux and if you want to keep tabs on what the next trend will be, you should keep your eyes on whats inspiring culinary creativity.

Until next time,

Catherine Neville catherine@feaststl.com

St. Louis Food & Wine Experience Previewthu., Jan. 10, 6:30 to 8:30pm; schnucks Des Peres

$30, schnuckscooks.com or 314.909.1704

Sample and purchase premier wines before theyre offered at the Food & Wine Experience.

Schnucks Cooks Cooking ClassWed., Jan. 16, 6pm; schnucks Cooks Cooking school

$35, schnuckscooks.com or 314.909.1704

Get hands-on and make a Southern New years Day spread of black-eyed pea salad, collards, pork chops and corn bread.

Magnificent Missouri Dinnersun., Jan. 20; the Jewel Box

$125, magnificentmissouri.org/events/dinner-series/

Kevin Willmann of Farmhaus Restaurant will be creating a multi-course, seated dinner that reflects the culinary heritage of Missouris 18th and 19th century French and German settlers.

Feasting with the CampbellsMon., Jan. 21; 1904 steak House at River City Casino

campbellhousemuseum.org/events.htm

Feast on an eight-course Victorian meal inspired by Virginia Campbells hand-written 19th century cookbook and menus from the Campbell-owned Southern Hotel.

St. Louis Food & Wine ExperienceJan. 25 to 27; the Chase Park Plaza Hotel

Pricing varies, repstl.org/foodandwine

More than 700 premier wines, 90 exhibitors and culinary demonstrations from acclaimed local and national celebrity chefs make for a not-to-be-missed, weekend-long epicurean adventure to benefit The Repertory Theatre of St. Louis.

Feast Book Club Meet-Uptue., Jan. 29, 6pm; PW Pizza

RsVP to editor@feaststl.com

Join us to discuss The Art of the Restaurateur by Nicholas Lander while enjoying complimentary hors doeuvres and drink specials. Purchase the book from Left bank books and receive 20 percent off.

Falling In Love ... In Five Coursessat., Feb. 9, 6:30pm; Four seasons Hotel

314.539.5358 or jdigman1@stlcc.edu

James beard Award-winning chef Michael Mina will bring his flair for New American dishes to the St. Louis Community College Foundations annual gala.

Wall Ballsat., Feb. 9, 7 to 11pm; third Degree Glass Factory

scosag.org/wallball/

Wall ball is celebrating its 10th anniversary in 2013. Dont miss this unique silent auction featuring the live creative process of 30 top local artists.

Baltic Odyssey Cruisesept. 3 to 13, 2013

314.968.9600, altairtravel.com

Join publisher Cat Neville, in partnership with Altair Travel, for our second annual Oceania culinary cruise. This years trip takes you to Scandinavia, the worlds newest center of culinary innovation. youll travel from Copenhagen to Stockholm with a three-day stop in St. Petersburg.

FEAST EVENTS

FEEdbAck?

Kandace Davis of Cha Cha Chow exemplifies two of the tastemaking concepts we cover in this issue: mobility and incubation. Cha Cha Chow, one of St. Louis first food trucks, is based at the Midtown Enterprise Center, one of our regions business incubators.

pubLiShErS LETTEr

BUY TICKET

S ONLINE AT

S t L M ar d i G r

a s . o rg

FOLLOW US

ON

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Twitter

@STLMardiG

ras/stlmg

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M A R D I G R A S

ic s m s nm e m

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e s s r c v f mp g f d mp s v r p th Y m b 2 s g o d r s

s p mi l and amateur c efs compete for t e t t e of t ju i s mp de c ous Cajun and Creo e spec a t es and p S n Comfort Hurr canes ud L g t

s mp s e ava a e or purc ase at t e event

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12 feastSTL.com JANUARY 2013

Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis

The Feed Dine Out Dine In Drink Feast Events Multimedia

CONNECT WITH US

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facebook.com/feastSTLScan this tag to like us

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twitter.com/feastmagScan this tag to follow us

MULTImedIa Behind-The-SceneS Video: Feast publisher Catherine Neville sits down with Wilfrin and Lisa Fernandez-Cruz, the husband-and-wife team behind The Restaurant (featured on p. 14), to chat about their inspiration for the new dining destination at The Cheshire.

pinterest.com/feastmagScan this tag to follow us

LoVe ReciPeS? Check out our extensive collection, plus online extras, in our easy-to-use database in the Dine In section at feastSTL.com.

enTeR noW! Our first giveaway of the New Year is a hot one: tickets to both the 11th annual Food & Wine Experience, benefitting The Repertory Theatre of St. Louis, and a preview tasting two weeks prior. Visit our Facebook page at facebook.com/feastSTL or scan the tag below to enter now!

ONLINE CONTENT

The Magazine

MULTImedIa SPeciaL FooTage: Read about Mwanzi Co. owner Jermain Todds eco-conscious installations on p. 58 of this months Tastemakers feature, and then tour his showroom and hear from some of his latest clients, including Simone Faure of the soon-to-open La Patisserie Chouquette.

14 feastSTL.com JANUARY 2013

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The Cheshire has been given a sharp renovation, and The Restaurant is a beautiful example of how old and new can blend seamlessly. Seasonal dishes emerge from the huge open kitchen, helmed by the husband-and-wife team of Wilfrin and Lisa Fernandez-Cruz. The menu features throw backs that are a nod to the original Cheshire, such as prime rib with yorkshire pudding, and the rest of the menu has a classic richness as well. Quail are buttermilk-marinated and fried, served with fresh figs and truffle honey. The butcher board features pt and duck rillette with housemade mustards. High-quality meats take center stage in The Restaurants entre selection, which is organized by cooking method: rotisserie, plancha, smoker or grill. Desserts reference English tradition, with gingerbread, trifle and bread pudding on offer along with a lovely Eton Mess fool. Cocktails are highly recommended, and The Restaurants wine selection is large. We suggest you perch at the gleaming bar or reserve a table near the fireplace to enjoy a long, satisfying winter meal. C.N.

7036 Clayton Ave., Richmond Heights 314.932.7818, restaurant-stl.com

the restaurant at the cheshire

behind-The-scenes VideO! Meet the husband-and-wife team behind the classically modern fare at The Restaurant at The cheshire. scan the tag or visit feastsTL.com to watch the video.

15Inspired Food Culture J a n u a r y 2 0 1 3

St. Louis-based wine enthusiast Jennifer Johnson is a sommelier, wine educator, journalist, and hospitality and marketing consultant who loves to celebrate life, family, food and wine.

grard bertrand corbires 2010 @ bar les frres

wr tten by Jennifer Johnson

Bar Les Frres all-French wine list isnt extensive, it isnt boastful nor is it expensive. it is interesting, and being at bar Les Frres is like dining at a neighborhood bistro in a smaller city near Paris, with a sense that the proprietor hand-selects each wine quickly, confidently and with her relatively adventurous patron in mind.

the Grard bertrand Corbires 2010 is a Grenache-Syrah blend from Corbires, a sub-region of Frances Mediterranean-lined Languedoc-roussillon. it has an appealing Old world-meets-new world style that suits as a pre-dinner cocktails with friends or to enhance the French-spiced, full-flavored juiciness of the toulouse sausage with potato pancake and red cabbage.

Much like the region in which it lies, Corbires is vast in size, topography and climate. recent investments in winemaking, planting of better varieties and support from American importers advocating this regions potential have yielded many shining stars these days. Solidly structured with black currant aromas, the wines black pepper, herb and soft vanilla notes extend through the finish. it underscores bar Les Frres hearty dishes, such as the duck confit with brussels sprouts and the filet mignon with escalloped potatoes, well.

7637 wydown blvd., Clayton, 314.725.8880

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133 West Clinton PlaceSt. Louis, MO 63122

314-965-9005www.citizenkanes.com

Conveniently located in KirkwoodDinner Hours: Tues.-Sun. 5 p.m.

Nothing quite as savory as our sixteen-ounce

Prime New York Stripenhanced by a delicious brandy

peppercorn sauce, fresh salad,

creamy garlic mashed potatoes

and Rose Bud Salad.

Eric GielauCulinary Partner

11411 Olive Blvd., Creve Coeur, MO 63141314-432-3535

www.gcfb.net

Q: What would you say are a couple of guest favorite entrees on your menu?A. Our guests love our made from scratch soups, sauces, etc... we obviously take pride in cleanliness, but the quality of food and handcrafted beer are what we are known for, so there are a lot of favorites. A few of the more notable entrees would be our Chicken and Asparagus Linguini, Maple Pepper Bacon Flatbread, and our assortment of signature burgers.

Granite City Food and Brewery

Scan the code below to see a behind the

scenes interview!

Chef Brandon Benack, Executive Chef

of Truffles Restaurant

9202 Clayton Rd., St. Louis, MO 63124314.567.9100 www.todayattruffles.com

Q. What makes Truffles steaks so great?

A. Our in-house dry aging program with all prime beef cooked to perfection in our 1600 degree infra-red broiler.

Watch a behind the scenes video with the chef. Simply scan the QR Code in the right hand corner of this ad.

Lunch Tues.-Fri. 11-2pm Dinner Tues.-Sat. 5pm Bar open 3pm

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m1SfkX4UHcQ

16 feastSTL.com JANUARY 2013

the rustic goat

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The use of the word rustic in its name belies The Rustic Goats sophisticated, modern design. The restaurant and lounges space takes full advantage of its urban location and is open and industrial, with concrete, glass and wood the dominant materials used throughout the layout. Pithy sayings and well-placed graphics are peppered on the walls, unifying the restaurants visual concept. The contrast of modern and rustic extends to The Rustic Goats menu, where contemporary dishes like the lobster napoleon with silky avocado and sweet roasted corn are offered alongside plates of Southern comfort food, chicken and waffles a particular standout, with the crispy, salty chicken perfectly offset by rich maple syrup. Live music, a bustling bar, a pool table and a huge open kitchen add life and warmth to the cool industrial setting, making the Goat a welcoming urban oasis. C.N.

2617 Washington Ave., Downtown, 314.371.4031rusticgoat.com

17Inspired Food Culture J a n u a r y 2 0 1 3

snack mixes

| 1 | Grandmas Nuts original mix with chocolate, $8.99; Straubs, multiple locations, straubs.com | 2 | Moms Originals Moms Mix, $2.85; Miss Ms Candy Boutique, 6193 Delmar Blvd., The Loop, missmscandy.com | 3 | Whataya Nuts Parmesan-cracked pepper mix, $4.99; Jennifers Pharmacy, 30 N. Central Ave., Clayton, jenniferspharmacy.com PHOTOGRAPHy By Jonathan Gayman

Whether youre curled up on the sofa watching a Rams game or simply satisfying a craving for something crunchy, these locally made mixes always hit the spot. B.W.

IN THE BAG: NuTs, sEEds, drIEd FruIT & CHoColATE

IN THE BAG: prETzEls, pEANuTs & CErEAl BITEs

IN THE BAG: sEAsoNEd AlmoNds, CAsHEws & pECANs

*Free Airfare promotion does not include ground transfers and applies to economy, round-trip flights only from the following OceaniaCruises Primary Air Gateways ATL, BOS, ORD, DEN, DFW, EWR, IAH, LAX, MIA, IAD, JFK, MCO, PHL, PHX, SAN, SEA, SFO,TPA, YUL, YYC, YYZ, YVR. Airfare is available from all other U.S. & Canadiangateways at an additional charge. Any advertised faresthat include the Free Airfare promotion include airline fees, surcharges and government taxes. Some airlineimposedpersonal charges, including but not limited to baggage, priority boarding, and special seating, may apply. Oceania Cruises reserves the rightto correct errorsor omissions and to change any and all fares, fees, and surcharges at any time. Additional terms and conditions may apply.Complete terms and conditions may befound in the Guest Ticket Contract. Ships Registry Marshall Islands. PRO27773

Join publisher Cat Neville, in partnership with Altair Travel, for our second annual Oceania culinary cruise. This year's trip takes you to Scandinavia, the world's newest center of culinary innovation. You'll travel from Copenhagen to Stockholm with a three-day stop in St. Petersburg.

HOSTED BY CATHERINE NEVILLEPUBLISHER AND EDITOR, FEAST

BALTIC ODYSSEY CRUISESeptember 3 to 13, 2013

CALL THE OCEANIA CRUISES SPECIALISTS AT ALTAIR TRAVEL & CRUISES TODAY

(314) 968-9600 or TOLL FREE (800) 264-1116

10 Day Baltic Odyssey sailing on the Marina on September 3, departing from Copenhagen, Denmark, and includes the ports of

Warnemunde (Berlin, Germany), Gdansk, Poland: Tallin, Estonia; St. Petersburg, Russia where the ship will overnight for two nights; Helsinki, Finland; and ends in Stockholm,

Sweden where it will overnight one night.

Marina & Riviera

Saturday, February 9, 20136:30 p.m., Four Seasons Hotel St. Louis

Event will benefit St. Louis Community Colleges students and educational programs.Call 314-539-5472 or visit www.stlcc.edu/Foundation/News_and_Events.html

Experience the Culinary Delights of Celebrity Chef Michael Mina during his first St. Louis visit!

falling in love in five courses

18 feastSTL.com J a n u a r y 2 0 1 3

griffin delivery

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andy heaslet isnt that different from a lot of young guys in St. Louis. he loves riding his bike, supporting local business and eating pizza from the comfort of his couch. and heaslet has created a viable business model built on these ideals.

Griffin Delivery is heaslets baby. Serving Downtown and South City, the bike-based service orders, picks up and delivers food to you from a variety of mom-and-pop restaurants in those areas. were breathing new life into an old tradition by making bikes a viable means for earning a living again, says heaslet. he notes that along with helping to create jobs and being environmentally sound, his service is as fast as, if not faster than, your typical four-wheeled delivery. it has to be in order to compete. and that means heaslet hires only the most skilled couriers. in St. Louis you have to ride in zero degrees when its sleeting as well as 100 degrees with 90 percent humidity, he says. you can get a good feel for [someones riding abilities] when theyre trying to carry on a conversation in the middle of rush hour. 314.270.2276griffindelivery.com

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Join us Monday, January 21, at STEAK HOUSE to celebrate the 70th Anniversary of the Campbell House Museum. Enjoy an eight-course

Victorian feast inspired by Virginia Campbells 19th century cookbook.

For reservations, call 314.421.0325.

20 feastSTL.com JANUARY 2013

sweet katie bees cupcake and coffee barIs there anything sweeter than a mother-daughter cupcake shop? After decades of working in corporate offices, Kate Hendrix and her daughter Beth Hendrix decided to go into business together and open Sweet Katie Bees Cupcake and Coffee Bar. The shabby-chic shop in OFallon, Ill., serves fresh-baked cupcakes made with organic and sustainable ingredients alongside locally roasted Goshen coffees and housemade gourmet ciders and cocoas.

Two constants on the cupcake menu are Vanilla Bean Cloud (vanilla cake filled with vanilla whipped cream and topped with vanilla meringue buttercream) and Beths Chocolate (rich, Valrhona cocoa cupcake filled with whipped cream and finished with dark chocolate buttercream). The latter makes a perfectly indulgent pairing with Gabes Fleur de sel Mocha, featuring housemade salted caramel syrup.

Every delectable day at Sweet Katie Bees brings a bevy of new specialty cupcakes from pastry chef Karolyn Page. If you see them scribbled on the daily menu board, be sure to try the Italian Cream (vanilla-pecan-coconut cake topped with cream cheese icing and toasted coconut), the Mojito (rum-lime-mint cake filled with custard and topped with buttercream featuring the flavors from the cake) and the 3-Chile Chocolate (chocolate cake flavored with red pepper flakes and cayenne and topped with chile-and-ancho-spiked buttercream). We recommend stocking up on a variety of flavors to share with friends. This way you can leave with a beautiful ribbon-wrapped box in one hand, a soul-warming Mayan hot cocoa in the other and a very big smile on your face. B.W.

212 E. State St., OFallon, Ill., 618.622.9930, sweetkatiebees.com

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| 1 | Tiramisu features Italian spongecake drenched in a mixture of sweet espresso and coffee liqueur topped with mascarpone-whipped cream icing and a dusting of cocoa. For a simple pleasure, enjoy it with an Americano or a tall glass of milk. | 2 | Apple Maple Bacon is a heavenly combo of salty and sweet. Chunky apple cake is flecked with pecans and cinnamon and topped with maple cream cheese frosting, candied bacon and a drizzle of maple syrup. It goes great with caramel apple cider. | 3 | Bananas Foster is a banana-vanilla bean cake topped with brown butter frosting, caramel drizzle and a banana chip. Try it with Tiger Spice chai.

3 TASTY CUPCAKE AND DRINK COMBOS

| 1 | | 3 | | 2 |

21Inspired Food Culture J a n u a r y 2 0 1 3

proudly support

Alton Restaurant Week

the #1 St. Louis website

&

It's Lunch Time atOpen 7 days

a week 11 am to 4 pm

RestauRant Week special OffeR

lunch special includes your choice of soup, sandwich and one of our special desserts!

$10Offer good (January 18th - 27th)!

We are famous for our homemade pies, pound chicken

salad sandwiches and our tollhouse brownies....just to name a few!We serve a variety of soups, salads and sandwiches.

618-462-5881 www.myjustdesserts.org

Located on the Lincoln Legacy Trail31 E Broadway, Alton, IL 62002

Lunch$10 Per Person

(Glass of Wine, Beer, Tea or Soda Included)

choice of Pasta Penne with Sicilian Meat Sauce Fettuccine Alfredo Shrimp Alfredo Chicken Carbonara

(Penne Pasta with Chicken, Bacon and Mushrooms in a Pink Alfredo Sauce)

Pasta Italiano (Penne Pasta With Italian Sausage And Bacon In A Basil Herb Cream Sauce)

Dinner$25 For Two People

(Glass of Wine, Beer, Tea or Soda Included)

choice of One Pasta Per Person & Side Salad Penne with Sicilian Meat Sauce Fettuccine Alfredo Shrimp Alfredo Chicken Carbonara

(Penne Pasta with Chicken, Bacon And Mushrooms In A Pink Alfredo Sauce)

Pasta Italiano (Penne Pasta With Italian Sausage And Bacon In A Basil Herb Cream Sauce) and Side Salad

618-786-3001www.thegraftonwinery .com

OPEN DAILYALL YEAR

Worlds Apart...Minutes Away

The Lodge at Pere Marquette

My Valentine Package

Have your vows renewed in front of the fireplace, dance the night away and retreat to your cabin or lodge room where

roses, champagne and chocolates await you. Available February 14th, 15th and 16th. Restrictions apply.

Starting at $109Eagle Watchers Package

Join us and spot our nations majestic symbol along the bluffs of the Great River Road. This package includes a $20 voucher for the Lodge Restaurant, Grafton area specials and a map of

area Eagle watching hotspots. Restrictions apply.

Two nights only $75 per person

Gourmet Duck A LOrange Wine Dinner February 20thParanormal Investigation February 22nd

Folk Festival March 3rdRestaurant Week Fried Chicken Specials Starting at $10 per person

Call 618-786-2331 or visit www.pmlodge.net for full details.

Join us for

Alton Restaurant WeekVisit our website to view our menu

& sign up for a chance to win a

$2500 Gift CardOnly 25 minutes from St. Louis

255 N. IL to Fosterburg Rd. Exit 13.3400 Fosterburg Rd. Alton, IL618.462.4620 castellis255.com

Open at 11am Daily for Lunch and Dinner (Closed Mondays)

222NDNDND A A ANNUALNNUALNNUAL

RESTAURANT WEEKRESTAURANT WEEKRESTAURANT WEEKJJJANUARYANUARYANUARY 18-27, 2 18-27, 2 18-27, 2ANUARYANUARYANUARY 000131313

1-800-ALTON-IL | VisitAlton.com

Alton Sports Tap Bossanova Castellis at 255 Francos

Restaurant Gentelins on

Broadway My Just Desserts Rib City Alton State Street

Market Olgas Kitchen Grafton Winery

and Brewhaus Mississippi

Half Step Pere Marquette

Lodge Aunt Sams

Uptown Eatery Chez Marilyn Johnsons Corner Tonys Restaurant

(800) 258-6645www.AltonRestaurantWeek.com

Dine with us during the 2nd annual Alton Restaurant Week. Starting Friday, January 18, many of the locally-owned restaurants in Alton will come together to offer diners a taste of some of their best menu items. For diners, there are no passes to buy, coupons to carry or cards to punch. We ask that you simply pull up a chair and join us for a great meal for lunch or dinner, offered at a fi xed price, at the participating restaurant of your choice January 18 27. Lunch is $10 (plus tax and gratuity) and dinner is $25 (plus tax and gratuity).

lemon sorbet

| 1 | Chalkboard spice jar, $7; Anthropologie, St. Louis Galleria, Richmond Heights, anthropologie.com | 2 | Melamine reamer, $3.95; Crate & Barrel, 1 The Boulevard, Richmond Heights, crateandbarrel.com | 3 | Dualit yellow four-slice toaster, $319.95; Sur La Table, Plaza Frontenac, Frontenac, surlatable.com | 4 | Laguiole steak knife set, $78; Anthropologie | 5 | Marin yellow oval platter, $24.95; Crate & Barrel | 6 | Modernist serving bowl, $16; West Elm, westelm.com

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Benjamin Moores Color of the Year for 2013 is lemon sorbet, a buttery pastel yellow that happens to look as great on these kitchen wares as it will on your kitchen walls. For a tasty visual combination, pair lemon sorbet with shades from the mint and vanilla families. B.W.

| 6 |

| 1 |

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22 feastSTL.com JANUARY 2013

23Inspired Food Culture J a n u a r y 2 0 1 3

New Beginnings at Local Harvest!Get a fresh start in the new year. Throughout January join Local Harvest Grocery and Cafe for classes to help you create a healthy body and mind. Discover the Paleo Diet, Sprouting Fermented Foods, Detoxing Teas and Beverages, and more!

Check our website for classes and sign up for our e-mail specials and recipes.www.localharvestgrocery.com/kirkwood

Classes and tastings by local vendors include: Traveling Tea, The Organic Cave, Blissoma, and Gringo George

Follow us on Facebook and Twitter: @localharveststl

*Valid only with purchases of two dinner entrees. Dine-in only. Not valid on holidays, restaurant special events or with any other discount. See web site for exclusions. Tax and tip not included. Expires 1/31/13.

Simply the best Steaks and SeafoodKreis serves the finest USDA Prime Mid Western Corn-fed Beef,aged four to six weeks in house. We offer an extensive choice of the classic Steak Cuts and Seafood including our famous Prime Rib. Simply the best available-Top 2%. As well as Colorado Lamb Chops, the best you can buy!

535 S. Lindbergh St. Louis 314.993.0735 kreisrestaurant.com

Bring In This Ad For:

Half off a bottle of Wine from our Wine List. Discount up to $30 or 20% Off your bill. Discount up to $20

dwell912 + dwellSTL = the alternative approach to the

bed & breakfast & extended stay experience

downtown STL la salle park lafayette square info@dwell912.com 314.599.3100 dwell912.com

Modern + Eclectic + Urban + Industrial

12133 Manchester Rd. Des Peres 314.821.5557 enchantingembellishments.net

After Christmas Clearance Sale Experience our world of enchantment!

Our Selection of exclusive vendors will satisfy the most discriminating tastes. From contemporary to ultra posh to whimsical and old world, you will find it here. Simply unique and exclusive gift items, jewelry and boutique apparel will give you confidence to express your own taste and lifestyle.

Need help? We have professional Interior Designer's to help you create your style.

50% Off on All Christmas Home Decor and Holiday Items.

24 feastSTL.com JANUARY 2013

Its been a life full of wonderful restaurant experiences working with some well-known St. Louis restaurant families, like the Slays and the Del Pietros, says Mike (Pappy) Emerson, co-founder and owner of Pappys Smokehouse. Emerson continues, saying that his second act includes friendships and collaboration with some of the best chefs, brewers, bakers and food writers this city has ever seen. Emerson is a connector, a person who unites people. His gregarious presence has helped solidify a feeling of camaraderie and collaboration that is now a hallmark of the St. Louis food scene.

When you opened Pappys, what were your expectations? I wish I had a recording of my opening-day speech. I stood in front of my little band of four, with my partner John Matthews, and told them, If we can feed 50 people a day, this should work. I think we fed 70, and I felt like we were gonna be OK. The two things that have not changed since that first day: our commitment to always serve the very best barbecue we can and to treat every customer like a friend. Did you ever imagine youd receive recognition on such a huge, national scale? I dont think anyone could say they expected the recognition weve received. Its truly humbling, but it also sets an extremely high bar for us. We never want to disappoint anyone, and it can be very intimidating when someone says, I drove here from Chicago or, I flew from New York to try our barbecue. Its an honor to receive the attention. And I feel my team rises to the occasion every single day. How can we further support the scenes expansion and maturation? We recently had the First Annual Sous Chef Challenge at Kitchen Conservatory. It put a group of St. Louis ones to watch in the same room together. While it was a competition, there were ideas exchanged and bonds formed between these young chefs that well benefit from down the road. We have to continue to support those who are coming next. What are the keys to success? My son John always says, Play hurt. It has become one of my favorite sayings. The restaurant business does not allow for an off day, or even an off meal. If you want to play in the big leagues, thats the mind-set thats required. Keys to failure? Poor planning, being unwilling to take out the trash or wash a dish because its beneath you, and forgetting that, at the end of the day, were all here to serve. What do you wish you knew then that you know now? How important it is to avoid yelling. I still have my moments, but it hurts people and accomplishes nothing. Avoid it at all costs. Advice for up-and-coming restaurant owners? Look before you leap. Listen to those who have been there, and learn from their mistakes. Dont take yourself too seriously. Unless you invented fire, you didnt invent cooking.

WrITTEN bY Catherine Neville PHOTOgrAPHY bY Jonathan Gayman

Co-foUNdeR, owNeR, PAPPYs smokehoUse

3106 Olive St., Midtown314.535.4340 pappyssmokehouse.com Visit feastSTL.com to read the full interview with Mike Emerson.

mike (PAPPY) emeRsoN

25Inspired Food Culture J a n u a r y 2 0 1 3

Jumbo Florida Stone Crabs now available!Stone Crab season is officially under way. For a limited time only, Gerard's is carrying fresh Florida Stone Crabs along with the best Steaks, Chops, and Seafood available as well as imported pasta from Italy.

With over 600 Wines from around the world, Gerard's was one of 443 restaurants worldwide to receive the Award of Excellence from Wine Spectator for the 13th year.

Call now for more details.Private room available for parties up to 35.Book your holiday party now!Please support locally owned restaurants.

1153 Colonnade Center DesPeres 314.821.7977 stlgerards.com

Make Someone Smile Today

Order a special gift for Valentines Day and use discount

Code: VALENTINE 10 for 10% off on $3500 order

Code: VALENTINE 20 for 20% off on $6500 order

Flowers

Baskets

Sympathy

Corporate Gifts

Weddings

Events

Jewelry

Purses

Gifts

Florissant 314.831.0979 Stephanie Key @stephkey heartfilledcreations.com

We sharpen

Wide selection of Wusthof Knives, Global Knives, Victorinox Knives, AllClad Pans, Capresso Coffee Makers, Atlas Pasta Machines, Emile Henry Bakeware, USA Pan Bakeware, Vic Firth Pepper Mills, and other World Class brands.

Great selection of High end Knives, Cookware, Kitchen tools and gadgets. Great Holiday specials.

Bertarelli Cutlery 1927 Marconi Saint Louis 314.664.4005 Bertarelli Cutlery @STLKNIVES

Family owned and operated since 1967. Knives Scissors

Garden tools Lawn mower blades

Old fashion rotary mowers And much much more

Mystery Dinner Theatre

4426 Randall Place St. Louis 314.533.9830 bissellmansion.com

Nursery Crimes Fairytale land isnt all that its cracked up to be just ask Humpty Dumpty. He didnt fall off that wall, he was pushed!Now that we are all grown up, join us as we recall those fond memories that turn to murDer!

This interactive comedy mystery will be presented with a 4-course meal to DIe for!

Call for reservations 314.533.9830

Bring in this ad for $10.00 off per person.Valid thru January 2013 Not valid for groups.

26 feastSTL.com JANUARY 2013

Wrong. There are vast differences in the styles of whiskey youll find on the shelves of your favorite liquor store.

Bourbon can be made in any state. Its mash bill is at least 51 percent corn, but corn does not exceed 80 percent. Barley, wheat and rye make up the remainder. Its aged in new, charred oak barrels for a minimum of two years. Like Tennessee whiskey and rye whiskey, bourbon must be distilled at no higher than 160 proof and bottled at no less than 80 proof.

Tennessee whiskey is made in the state of Tennessee. Its mash bill is at least 51 percent corn, but corn does not exceed 79 percent. Barley, wheat and rye make up the rest of the mash bill. Its aged in new, charred oak barrels for a minimum of two years. And it goes through the Lincoln

County Process (filtered through maple charcoal before aging). Rye whiskey is made from at least 51 percent rye, and it has to be aged at least two years in new charred oak barrels. Bonded whiskey comes from a single distillery and must be aged for at least four years. Its bottled at 100 proof, and taxes arent paid until the whiskey is sold and released from bond. Blended American whiskey is made from a minimum of 20 percent straight whiskey with the remainder being neutral grain spirit. It can be and most often is aged in used barrels.

In Canadian whiskey, half of the blend must be from a neutral grain spirit. It is primarily rye, or a blend of ryes, and tends to be malted. Additives usually consist of fig juice, sherry, molasses and caramel. Minimum aging is three years in any type of barrel.

Ive read more stories about the origin of this classic than scientists have held debates on the origins of the universe. Some say the Manhattan was created at the Manhattan Club in New York for Gov. Tildens election win. Like the histories of most drinks, the truth has been lost to the annals of time, and all that remains is speculation.

So lets set aside the story and instead focus on the recipe. In cocktail research, one consistently comes across discrepancies in recipes from one book to the next. With the Manhattan, Ive seen recipes with more vermouth than whiskey or more whiskey than vermouth, as well as the inclusion of absinthe, maraschino liqueur, Angostura bitters, orange bitters and even orange curaao.

But in all Manhattan recipes youll find three basic ingredients: whiskey, vermouth and bitters. Personally, I prefer a good 100-proof rye or bourbon to stand up to the sweetness and thickness of some vermouths. Rittenhouse Rye or Heaven Hill Gold Label Bonded Bourbon are both great in Manhattans. Of the many choices, three sweet vermouths (written as Italian vermouths in older bar books) stand above the rest. My go-to vermouth is Cocchi di Torino. Its sweetness and herbal qualities are well-balanced, and its not as thick as some. Carpano Antica has large amounts of vanilla and baking spice notes and a thickness well-suited to fall and winter drinking. And last but not least, Quady Vya. This vermouth is made in Canada and, like Cocchi di Torino, is well-balanced. Its just a bit thicker than the Cocchi. When it comes to bitters, Angostura is the staple in most bars. If you can find a bottle of The Bitter Truth Jerry Thomas Own Decanter Bitters, use that. Its my favorite in Manhattans and Old-Fashioneds. When you bring all these ingredients together, you have one of my favorite Manhattan recipes to date.

WhiSkey iS WhiSkey, righT?

Matt Seiter is a co-founder of the United States Bartenders Guilds St. Louis chapter, a member of the national board for the USBGs MA program and a continuing educator for all desiring knowledge of the craft of mixology. He is a member of Drink Lab and is the creator of the Sanctuaria Cocktail Club.

clAssic compoNeNts STORY AND ReCIPe BY Matt Seiter PHOTOGRAPHY BY Jonathan gayman

Manhattan serves | 1 |

2 oz Rittenhouse Rye or Heaven Hill Gold Label Bonded Bourbon 1 oz Cocchi di Torino Italian Vermouth 2 dashes The Bitter Truth Jerry Thomas Own Decanter Bitters orange peel

| Preparation | Combine rye or bourbon, vermouth, and bitters in a mixing glass. Add cracked ice and stir for 25 to 30 seconds. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Twist a slice of orange peel over the drink, discard the peel and serve.

Suntrup Buick GMC4200 N. Service Rd. I-70 and Cave Springs

639-939-0800 www.suntrupbpg.com*See dealer for details. Ad vehicle not compatible with any other dealer promotions.

2012BUICK VERANO

28 feastSTL.com JANUARY 2013

STYLE: Schwarzbier (4 6% abv)AVAILABLE AT: Morgan Street Brewery,

721 N Second St , Lacledes Landing; $5 (16-oz draught)PAIrIngS: Pork tenderloin Crab cake

Dont let this beer deceive you: While its as dark in color as a stout, this beer is as

light on the palate as a pilsner. A schwarzbier is an old German style that uses enough dark-roasted malt to create a rich black color but not so much that its too roasty. This is a light-bodied lager that features a deep maltiness while remaining very easy to drink.

STYLE: American Barleywine (9 6% abv)AVAILABLE AT: The Wine Merchant, 20 S Hanley Road, Clayton, winemerchantltd com; $13 99 (six-pack, 12-oz bottles) PAIrIngS: Deep-dish pizza Chocolate-orange

mousse cake Drunk fresh, Bigfoot is a monster of a beer with a hop bite that can rip your tongue apart. But if you have the patience, buy enough to let it age. A six- or seven-year vertical of this beer is an eye-opening experience. Its fascinating to see the peaks and valleys that the beer travels through as it ages.

STYLE: Russian Imperial Stout (9% abv)AVAILABLE AT: Friar Tuck, multiple locations, friartuckonline com; $9 99 (four-pack, 12-oz bottles) PAIrIngS: Chocolate ice cream Grilled rib-eye

Were always on the hunt for the latest and most highly sought-after beers. Sometimes we forget about the fantastic beers that are always available. North Coasts Old Rasputin is one of the finest imperial stouts being made. The fact that this beer, which features huge chocolate and espresso notes, is available year-round makes it a winner.

ProVEnAncE: London (45% abv)AVAILABLE AT: Randalls Wine & Spirits, multiple locations, shoprandalls com; $23 99

TrY IT: With soda and a squeeze of lime or in your favorite gin cocktail

The original Beefeater gin is a benchmark of the London Dry style, but the good folks at the distillery wanted to do something new. Enter 24. Thats the number of hours that its 12 botanicals are steeped in the distillate before Desmond Payne distills the gin once more. The usual botanicals are present, but some rare additions include Japanese sencha tea and Chinese green tea. Even at a high alcohol percentage, the quality shines through with a smooth mouth feel.

ProVEnAncE: France (40% abv)AVAILABLE AT: The Wine Merchant, 20 S Hanley Road,

Clayton, winemerchantltd com; $21 99 TrY IT: As an addition to your favorite margarita recipe or in an Aviation

You may hear bartenders refer to an ingredient as his or her ketchup or spice rack, a spirit that makes so many tasty cocktails. Crme Yvette is one such

liqueur. Yvette went out of production in the 1960s, but the creators of St.-Germain have resurrected it. Violet petals are prominent, but youll also taste blackberries, red

raspberries, strawberries and cassis. Touches of honey, orange peel and vanilla help create a

smooth and silky violet liqueur.

ProVEnAncE: Japan (43% abv)AVAILABLE AT: The Wine & Cheese Place, multiple locations, wineandcheeseplace com; $54 99

TrY IT: With a few drops of water or over a big rock of ice

Hibiki 12 is one of the best examples of a top-notch blended Scotch whisky thats not from Scotland. Single malts are blended with grain whiskies of the same age in this great bottling. There are tasty sweet floral notes, a touch of pepper, spices and great tart citrus notes with a touch of soft fruits, likely from the plum-liqueur casks Hibiki is finished in.

Morgan STreeT BreweryS BLack Bear

Sierra nevada Brewing co.S BigfooT

HiBiki 12

norTH coaST Brewing co.S oLd raSpuTin ruSSian iMperiaL STouT

crMe yveTTe

BeefeaTer 24 gin

beer spiritsWRITTEN BY Michael Sweeney

The creator of STLHops.com and founder of St. Louis Craft Beer Week, Michael Sweeney is also the craft beer manager at Lohr Distributing.

WRITTEN BY Chad Michael George

Award-winning sommelier and mixologist Chad Michael George is founder of Proof Academy, which covers everything from wine and cocktail list consulting to spirits and mixology education.

top JANUARY pICKS

29Inspired Food Culture J a n u a r y 2 0 1 3

Provenance: Spainavailable at: Veritas Gateway to Food and Wine, 1722 Clarkson Road, Chesterfield, veritasgateway com; $32Pairings: Braised meats Manchego Sausages

From the mind behind the highly acclaimed Orin Swift label comes the Locations series.

The winemaker introduces you to a country through one bottle of wine by selecting the best varieties from specific regions and blending them together. The first to be released is E (for Espaa, meaning Spain), featuring Garnacha, Carignan and Tempranillo. Give this wine a little breathing time to reveal its layers of ripe plum, warm spice and subtle oak.

Provenance: Franceavailable at: Naked Vine, 1624 Clarkson Road, Chesterfield, nakedvine net; $12 99Pairings: Goat cheese Shellfish Herb-roasted chicken

Break out of the winter-weather blues with this bright and fruity fusion of Grenache Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc. Zesty citrus tones awaken your palate while the wine maintains an attractive elegance through sweet pineapple notes and medium-bodied structure. Hints of flowers, greenery and stone finish this fresh yet aromatic white.

Provenance: Marthasville, Moavailable at: Saint Louis Cellars, 2640 Big Bend Blvd , Maplewood, saintlouiscellars com; $23 99

Pairings: Game Blackened fish or chicken Smoked cheeses

Missouris most well-known grape, Norton, can be somewhat of a powerhouse when released too young. Through this producers practices of later-than-normal harvest and almost two years of oak aging followed by another year in the bottle, this intense variety is allowed enough time to soften and mature. The result is a robust yet velvety wine that is rich with blackberry fruit and notes of peppery spice.

LoCatIons E 2011

BEthLEhEm VaLLEy norton 2006

winewriTTEN By Angela Ortmann

STLwinegirl Angela Ortmann shares her passion for all things epicurean through her event and consultation business, which is dedicated to enhancing your food and wine experience.

mIChEL GassIEr CErCIus BLanC 2011

30 feastSTL.com JANUARY 2013

Stop by to pick up more delicious recipes featuring avocado oil. Visit straubs.com for information on its four locations.check it out!

Feast extra

Crispy on the outside, soft and creamy on the inside, these dumplings work well as an appetizer or as a side dish with chilis, stews, fajitas or tacos. Serves | 12 |

Dumplings 4 large ripe avocados cup diced tomatoes cup diced red onion 1 tsp granulated garlic 1 tsp granulated onion 1 tsp kosher salt

3 Tbsp chopped cilantro lime juice 24 to 30 won ton wrappers* 1 Tbsp avocado oil

Chile sauCe cup avocado oil cup rice wine vinegar 1 Tbsp freshly grated ginger tsp red pepper flakes 1 Tbsp orange juice 2 Tbsp honey 1 Tbsp chopped cilantro

What kind of oil is emerald green, has a

pleasant aroma and flavor, is high in heart-

healthy monounsaturated fats, and can

reach temperatures up to 520F before

smoking? Although olive oil is a very good

guess, avocado oil transcends the health

and cooking benefits of olive oil, going from

the vinaigrette bowl to the wok without

missing a beat.

What is it?

Avocado oil is pressed from the flesh of the

avocado, not its pit. It has a buttery texture on

the tongue and a slightly nutty flavor. There

are many who dislike the intense fruitiness

of olive oil, and for those folks, avocado oil is

a welcome addition. Dieters seeking cooking

fats with high levels of omega-9 fatty acids

and monounsaturated fats will find avocado

oil is an essential addition to their pantries.

Where avocado oil really stands out is in its

ability to cook at very high temperatures.

Whether in its first (extra-virgin) pressing

or more refined, avocado oil offers a

convenience that few other oils do.

hoW Do i use it?

The smoke point of an oil refers to the

temperature at which it begins to smoke.

Brilliant! However, when an oil reaches this

point, it begins to change at a molecular

level into compounds that are less healthy

to ingest. Oils with high smoke points,

therefore, are more beneficial to use when

stir-frying, deep-frying or sauting. A refined

avocado oil (not extra-virgin) has a smoke

point around 500F, giving it one of the

highest available for cooking. Keeping this

hip and hot new oil on hand will poise you as

a foodie on the front lines of cool.

WrITTen By Erik Jacobs PHOTOgrAPHy By Jennifer Silverberg AVOCADO OIL

salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste lime juice, to taste

| Preparation Dumplings | Peel and chop avocados into -inch pieces. Mix gently with tomatoes and red onion. Add granulated garlic, granulated onion, salt and cilantro. Add lime juice to taste. Turn carefully to blend. Place 1 Tbsp guacamole into the center of each won ton wrapper. Fold corner to corner and pinch together, making a small purse shape. Moisten

with water to seal. Heat the avocado oil in a 10-inch skillet until a drop of water skitters on the surface. gently lower prepared dumplings into the skillet and saut until golden-brown.

| Preparation Chile sauce | In a small bowl, whisk all ingredients together. Serve alongside won tons for dipping. Store any unused sauce, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

* This recipe makes at least 24 dumplings, generally more. Most packages contain more than 24 won ton wrappers.

East-Meets-West Guacamole Dumplings with ChaCha Chile SauceBy Jean ann mantia, ScHOeMeHlS SOuTH SIDe grIll

31Inspired Food Culture J a n u a r y 2 0 1 3

Fun Food, Happy People, Great Drinks!FEAST FAVE

106 N. Main St. Edwardsvil le 618.307.4830

Cleveland Heath Chicken WingsCrispy, Sweet, Spicy

VOTED BEST NEW RESTAURANT - 2012 by the RIVERFRONT TIMESVOTED FAVORITE NEW RESTAURANT - 2012 by SAUCE MAGAZINE Mon-Fri 11:00-close, Sat 10:00-close Offering Saturday brunch First Come - First Serve (No reservations) Open Mon - Fri starting at 11 am and Sat starting at 10 am

You can't beat our meat!For over 81 years, the Wenneman family business has been a tradition for many people in the St. Louis Metropolitan area. With total commitment to customer satisfaction as their primary objective, we place great emphasis on product quality and customer service.

Wenneman Meat Company is a full service, federally inspected, old fashioned butcher shop and meat market. We produce a complete line of our own meat, deli and poultry products. Our formulations and recipes have been passed down for generations, and remain unchanged, while continuing to grow our product lines.

7415 State Rt 15 St. Libory, IL 618.768.4328 wenneman.com

Retail and Wholesale

Celebrate your heritage

1415 McKinley St. Mascoutah 618.566.4884 roemertopfl lc.com

Taste and discover authentic German dishes and traditional family recipes reminiscent of "Bavaria". Celebrate your heritage, a special occasion, or just sit back and relax in a unique atmosphere.

Specialty Bier: Spaten, Optimator, Celebrator, Bajuvator, Warsteiner, Paulaner, Franziskaner, Tucher, Bitburger, Weihenstephaner, Korbinian, Erdinger, Ayinger Jahrhundert, Dunkel Hefe, Vitus... "Bier Flights" and "Towers" available.Live music every 2nd & 4th Saturday Groups welcomeTues-Fri 11-2 & 5-9, Sat & Sun 5-9. Closed on Mondays.

Monogram It! Embroider It! Vinyl It! Screen Print It!

Personalized Gift Boutique

Welcome to the most UNIQUE ideas for gifts you will ever encounter. Offering customized services on many items. Including school spirit wear & custom apparel. Personalize your gift giving!

UniQue Ideas offers gift baskets, home & holiday decor, car & wall monograms, monogrammed jewelry and great entertainment pieces. We truly have gifts for every occasion!

Remember us for: Weddings Baby Showers Birthdays Graduations Anniversaries Baptisms Bachelorette Parties... or just because! M-Th 10-7 Fri. 10-5 Sat. 9-4

58 Fenton Plaza Fenton 636.343.2200 uniqueideasnmore.com

32 feastSTL.com JANUARY 2013

Yield | 1 gallon |

10 egg whites 1 lb mirepoix 3 lbs ground veal 8 oz tomato pure 1 gallon fresh veal or beef stock, chilled 1 bouquet garni* salt

| Preparation | Make sure all ingredients are kept cold until ready to use. In a medium bowl, lightly whip the egg whites until frothy. | 1 | Combine the whites with the mirepoix, ground veal and tomato pure. Combine with stock in a tall stockpot and stir. Add the bouquet garni and place over medium heat. Very slowly bring

to a simmer until the raft begins to form. This should occur at around 120F to 125F.

| 2 | Once the raft forms, adjust the heat so that only the occasional bubble rises to the top. Simmer for 90 minutes. | 3 | Meanwhile, carefully create a hole in the center of the raft with enough space to allow in a small ladle. Periodically ladle a small amount of the liquid over the raft. Take great care not to break apart the raft, as this will cause the soup to become cloudy.

Using a slotted spoon or skimmer, carefully remove the raft and discard. Strain the liquid through a fine-mesh strainer lined with cheesecloth. Place the liquid in the

refrigerator overnight. Once chilled, any remaining fats will congeal on the surface, making them easy to skim from the top. | 4 | If time doesnt allow for the liquid to chill overnight, gently skim the surface of the liquid with a paper towel, absorbing any remaining bits of fat.

Gently reheat the soup and season with salt as needed. Serve traditionally in a saucer and garnish with thin slices of mushroom. For best results, do not reheat the consomm more than once.

* Bouquet garni is a bundle of fresh herbs typically parsley, thyme, rosemary, peppercorns and bay leaf tied into a cheesecloth packet with butchers twine.

Consomm is fairly costly and time-consuming, which may be the reason few restaurants feature it on their menus anymore. Broth as a $16 appetizer is not a clear value to diners. However, the work, cost and time are all worth it when you taste the rich flavor, full body and intensity that a well-made consomm brings. The trick is in the clarity of the broth. A consomm with sediment or bits of oil on the surface isnt worth the bones used to make it.

Getting all of the fat and impurities to gather together is the most important step. Incorporating egg whites is the classic way of doing this. The proteins in the egg whites come together, gathering any bits and pieces in the liquid along the way, and form a floating mass called a raft. Creating a successful raft is key to creating a proper consomm. If your raft falls apart, you might as well start over. Temperature plays a big role in creating the raft. Start with cold ingredients and add heat gradually, giving the proteins time to come together naturally. If the temperature is too high, the raft will never come together. If the temperature is too low, bits and pieces will be left behind.

Next you have to make sure you incorporate enough flavor into the broth. Spices, herbs and traditional mirepoix in combination with some sort of meat or savory vegetable are all it takes. Gently basting the raft with the broth will help extract as much flavor as possible, but for an even more robust flavor, double consomm can be made by doubling the weight of the main protein while leaving the remaining ingredients the same. Depending on the type of protein used, double consomms become very luscious and gelatinous in texture. A modern technique for clarifying consomms, especially double, is called gelatin clarification or filtration. This involves incorporating gelatin powder into the base and then freezing, melting and straining the liquid. This process takes a few days but leaves the remaining liquid clear and gelatin-free. Its a controversial method because the remaining consomm lacks much of the desired mouthfeel of a traditionally prepared one. However, it is foolproof.

The last step in a successful consomm is the easiest the garnish. There are a dozen or so traditional French garnishes, but this is where we can make the consomm modern. Traditionally, a game consomm would be garnished with fresh mushrooms, but instead try a ricotta ravioli, steamed mussels or foie mousse.

STOry AND reCIPe By Cassy Vires PHOTOGrAPHy By Jennifer Silverberg

Veal Consomm This is a very basic recipe, as the true art of making a great consomm is in the skill, not the recipe. Once you master the technique, try your hand at some more complex flavor combinations.

CoNsomm

Cassy Vires is the owner and chef of Home Wine Kitchen. She received her culinary training in Houston and has a knack for reimagining classic dishes.

33Inspired Food Culture J a n u a r y 2 0 1 3

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Visit schnuckscooks.com for Schnucks Cooks videos, recipes, locations, our monthly newsletter and more!

2012 Schnucks

Our Schnucks Cooks how-to videos are full of tips and techniques from our team of culinary experts. If you want to learn more, check out our video library at schnuckscooks.com. Youll also find a variety of

Schnucks Cooks recipes for quick, easy and affordable meal solutions.

At our in-store Schnucks Cooks stations, our experienced Cooking Coaches will demonstrate how to cook our featured recipes and sample them for you to try! Youll find all the ingredients

and cooking equipment for each recipe next to our Schnucks Cooks station in select stores.

In large heavy Dutch oven, heat oil over medium heat. In batches, place ribs in Dutch oven in single layer. Cook until ribs are well browned on all sides; transfer to plate.

The best cuts of meat to use: beef chuck, brisket, short ribs, lamb shank and pork shoulder.

Bring liquid to a boil, then reduce heat to a simmer. Cover pot to trap steam inside.

How To BraiseBraising is the perfect cooking technique for tougher cuts of meat. You sear the meat then simmer in stock to tenderize it. Watch our step-by-step how-to video online to see how to make our succulent Braised Beef Short Ribs in Red Wine. Here are a few steps to get started.

34 feastSTL.com JANUARY 2013

Put your favorite fine strainer to work when making the veal consomme featured in this months Tech School column.

OXO GOOd GripS 8-inch dOubLe rOd STrainer

PROS OXO constructed this stainless-steel strainer with an 8-inch double-mesh bowl to tackle big tasks, such as filtering stock, with ease. The two-ply screen locks in small particulates very well. A comfortable nonslip grip keeps you and the strainer well-connected. Designers paid special attention to the welds that hold the double rods to the bowl, securing the metals in several spots over the span of an inch on each side. Dishwasher-safe too.

CONSChicken stock made in a 5-quart pot needs two passes to strain all the liquid. Particles sometimes get trapped between the meshes and complicates the cleanup, but thats a small quibble with this well-made tool.

$22.99; Bed Bath and Beyond, multiple locations, bedbathandbeyond.com

Fine MeSh 6-inch STainLeSS STrainer

PROSStainless-steel double mesh shapes into a sculpted cone from a sturdy stainless rim to make a strong, handsome sieve. The best strainer for making a big batch of yogurt cheese because a size 6 Melitta coffee filter fits perfectly into the cavity to allow the whey to drip through. Hearty vegetable broth in a 4-quart pot and a 3-quart pot full of pasta drain easily in one pour. Love the size for small-batch cooking jobs.

CONSBig jobs require two or more passes. Like the OXO double-screen bowl, particles get trapped between the screens and this tool needs attention to clean properly.

$15.95; Kitchen Conservatory, 8021 Clayton Road, Clayton, kitchenconservatory.com

10-inch FiLTer cOne hOLder and FiLTer cOneS

PROSI went to Session to buy an inexpensive stainless-steel chinois, but instead I was persuaded to try this one-task wonder tool, even though its not designed to strain stock. What weve got here is a grease filter that strains 5 quarts of stock at once with no particulate or sediment. Turn the filter inside out, place it in the cone, fold the top of the filter over the edge and ladle in bones, vegetables, herbs and all. Clear stock. No mess.

CONSThe holder is bulky. It easily hangs from a hook, but it is a presence. And the filters take up some shelf space.

$12.19 for the holder and $9.73 for 50 filter cones; Session Fixture Co., Inc., 6044 Lemay Ferry Road, Oakville, sessionfixtures.com

MeSh STrainerS, SeT OF 2

PROSYou get a 5.5-inch and a 7.9-inch strainer for under eight bucks. The small strainer uses the same gauge mesh as the larger one, but its shaped into a tighter sieve, perfect for dusting powdered sugar over cakes and cookies. The mesh is only single-ply, but all types of rice and most grains stay in the bowl during rinsing. About 1 teaspoon of tiny red quinoa and amaranth are lost from 1 cup of grain.

CONSThe metal is unspecified. The website gives no information about the metal, either, so expect to hand-wash and carefully dry this product after each use.

$7.99; World Market, multiple locations, worldmarket.com

GOOd cOOk TOuch 8-inch STrainer

PROSWith its stainless-steel bowl and heavy-duty plastic handle and rim, this inexpensive, utilitarian tool gives good value for the money. Its strong enough to handle bones and big chunks of stock with a few passes. The chunky handle provides a comfortable hold. Its easy to reserve cooking water from pasta by resting the strainer on a second pot and pouring the water off.

CONSThe rim doesnt clamp down as tightly as it does in all-metal models. Water gets trapped in the race around the bowl. Remember to turn the tool right-side-up after washing it to allow the water to run out.

$6.29; Schnucks, multiple locations, schnucks.com

fiNe stRAiNeRs

WhaT TO LOOk FOr :Size. Strainers range from 2 inches to 10 inches in diameter, each with different uses. A 6- or 8-inch size will accomplish most small to medium-large cooking chores easily.

BOwl CONStRuCtiON. Choose from a fine single-ply mesh, a two-ply mesh and a fine-pierced metal bowl. Match your choice to the tasks youll perform. Single mesh works to rinse most rices and grains. A very fine grain would benefit from double mesh. Stocks strain through all, but

more particulate and sediment come through the single mesh.

HaNdleS, lOOPS aNd liPS. Long handles make light work of big tasks. A secondary lip or loop opposite the handle allow you to rest the strainer over a bowl or pot. Look for a good grip and a comfortable hold on the shaft.

MateRialS. Choose from stainless steel, tin and aluminum for the bowl. Stainless steel is often dishwasher-safe and will not rust.

WRITTeN BY pat eby PHOTOgRAPHY BY Jonathan

CheCk out page32!

35Inspired Food Culture J a n u a r y 2 0 1 3

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Tenacious Eats Presents Movies for FoodiesBy integrating film and food, we create an original experience, a feast for the senses, an event that brings food and film, chefs and diners together.

TUESDAY, JANUARY 8TH Dinner RushTUESDAY, JANUARY 22ND Soul FoodTUESDAY, FEBRUARY 5TH Like Water for ChocolateTUESDAY, FEBRUARY 19TH Big Night

Join us for multiple courses and drink pairings while enjoying our feature films. Meals are prepared with locally sourced and hard-to-find ingredients. Each new film inspires a new menu so each dining experience is unique. Reservations required. http://tenaciouseats.brownpapertickets.com/

4510 Manchester Avenue St. Louis tenaciouseats.com

Stickleys 2013 Collector Edition is a multitasking 20 bottle wine rack crafted of solid cherry or quartersawn oak with an inlay of maple, walnut, pear, ebony and oak. Paired with a serving tray and storage compartment that conceals a solid cherry Stickley branded cheese board, this piece will only be made in the year 2013. Dau

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36 feastSTL.com JANUARY 2013

Already considered a staple of Southern cuisine, black-eyed peas are also a customary part of the traditional New Years Day meal in the South. They are thought to bring good luck and prosperity because of their similar appearance to coins and because the beans grow in size as they cook, suggesting that those who eat them will grow prosperous as well. In a Southern New Years Day spread, black-eyed peas can be found accompanied by collards, which symbolize the green of money,

1/3 cup grapeseed oil 2 Tbsp unsalted butter hot sauce

| Preparation | If using dry beans, cover with cold water and soak for 6 to 8 hours. Rinse and pick over beans. In a large saucepan, add cold water to cover beans by 2 inches. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for approximately 1 hours or until tender. Drain.

In a large saucepan over medium heat, cook bacon until crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon

and set aside. To the remaining bacon fat, add onion and bell peppers and cook until softened. Add jalapeo and garlic and cook until fragrant. Add scallions and reduce heat to low. Add black-eyed peas and stir to combine.

In a small bowl, mix vinegar, mustard, salt and pepper and stir to combine. Slowly drizzle grapeseed oil in and whisk to emulsify. Pour dressing over black-eyed pea salad, still on low heat, and toss to coat. Add butter and stir to finish. Adjust seasoning if needed and add hot sauce to taste.

Serves | 4 to 6 |

1 cups dried black-eyed peas or two 15-oz cans black-eyed peas, rinsed and drained 12 oz bacon, diced 1 cup chopped red onion 1 red bell pepper, diced 1 green bell pepper, diced 1 jalapeo, minced 2 cloves garlic, minced cup chopped scallions cup red wine vinegar 1 Tbsp Dijon mustard tsp kosher salt tsp freshly ground black pepper

SToRY AND RecIPe BY Tory Bahn PhoTogRAPhY BY Jennifer Silverberg A New YeARS feAST

Pick a TemP, any TemP. This dish is delicious served warm or at room temperature. As ingredients mingle and meld, it will develop even more flavor for the next day, so you can enjoy it cold as well.

The Veg Version. Bacon provides added flavor and a particular smoked quality to dishes. If you want to try a vegetarian or vegan preparation, substitute bacon fat with 2 tablespoons grapeseed oil when cooking your vegetables and skip the butter at the end. In order to maintain the smoked flavor, season this dish with Salish sea salt. This salt is smoked over alderwood and provides a nice facsimile of the smokiness of bacon.

chefS TipS :

Black-eyed pea Salad

and pork, since a pigs forward motion as it hunts and roots is symbolic of progress. This New Years Day menu is heavy on flavor and, in true Southern style, benefits from added butter and cream. Along with the hearty black-eyed peas, serve up creamed collard greens and pork chops, as well as crispy skillet corn bread to sop it all up. And wrap up the meal with a sweet slice of pecan pie. Bring prosperity and luck to your home this new year with a rich Southern feast.

get hands-on: Join Feast and schnucks Cooks Cooking school on Wed., Jan. 16,

at 6pm to make the dishes in this months menu. tickets are just $35 for a night of cooking, dining and wine. RsVP at schnuckscooks.com.

JOIN US! RSVP:

schnuckscooks.com 314.909.1704

make The meaL: Black-Eyed Pea Salad Pork chops

creamed collard greens crispy Skillet corn Bread Pecan Pie

Learn mOre: Attend our cooking class and learn to prepare dried beans with a little extra time, you can cut back on both price and sodium content of the canned varieties. Join us to cook perfect pork chops with cast iron and properly clean the pan afterward. And well explore the delicious flavor and super health benefits of collards.

37Inspired Food Culture J a n u a r y 2 0 1 3

The Place For Steaks In St. LouisFor over 30 years Tuckers has consistently prepared top-quality American cuisine with steaks cut fresh daily. Delicious food, a relaxed and cozy atmosphere, terrific service and reasonable prices make Tuckers what it is today an excellent dining experience in St. Louis!

Happy New Year! South 3939 Union Rd. 314.845.2584 Soulard 2117 South 12th St. 314.772.5977 West 14282 Manchester Rd. 636.227.8062

14282 Manchester Rd. 636.227.8062 tuckersplacestl.com

Start the countdown to Mardi Gras!

January 5th - 12 day party featuring Zydeco Crawdaddies

9pm - 1am - Lots of New Orleans fun all day!

February 9th - Tickets on sale now for Grand Parade Shuttle and

New Orleans Breakfast Buffet.

34 S. Old Orchard Webster Groves 314.968.0061 hwy61roadhouse.com

7610 Wydown Clayton 11935 Manchester Des Peres 9793 Clayton Ladue 314.932.5010 (Wydown) chillfrozenyogurts.com

Shouldn't frozen yogurt eaten in St. Louis.... ....actually be made in St. Louis?

At Chill, we wouldn't do it any other way.Our handcrafted artisan flavors, made in small batches of up to 10 gallons, are delivered to our stores fresh daily from a St. Louis dairy.

Come try our newest flavor creations:Salted Caramel, French Cheesecake and Coffee

Redeem this certificate for $1 off your next cup of Chill.

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Buy one chicken dinnerGet onechicken dinner FREEExpires January 31, 2013. Dine-in only.

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39Inspired Food Culture JANUARY 2013

This year we bring you the concepts that are driving our food scene forward and highlight the people, trends and places that

are setting the bar for food and drink in St. Louis.

We eat in a time when consumers (as well as producers) have never been more sophisticated and the democratization of great food has created a culture of innovation and craftsmanship.

Now that the doors to starting a culinary business are coming down, boundaries are a thing of the past. Creators are seeking ways to explore new ideas as well as old, to be

part of a culinary community and actively shape the present and the future of American food. In St. Louis, were seeing this materialize in three central

ways: collaboration, incubation and mobility. In this issue, we delve into these concepts, the key players in cultivating these

movements and how each affects the business of food in St. Louis.

R SAST TE AM KE

WHAT A GREAT IDEA! Great ideas pop up every day in the local food scene. Some

catch on and become larger trends, while some dont seem to get the spotlight they deserve. Sometimes that great idea comes in the form of a

restaurant concept that adds a new perspective to the greater food culture of our city. Sometimes its an old idea that has come back around and struck

us in a new and exciting way. Sometimes whats making waves is a person who pushes boundaries. Concepts, people, places, organizations ... they

all contribute to the pulse of the St. Louis culinary community. Look for these bubbles throughout the issue, each highlighting

a notable aspect of local food.

and Brandi Wills | ILLuStrated by Lisa Allen

edIted b

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ine Nev

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Micro Grant ProGraMSlow Food St. Louis puts its money where its mouth is. The nonprofits Small Farm Biodiversity Micro Grant Program encourages farmers and producers to raise heritage-breed animals and grow heirloom-variety

plants by awarding enterprising individuals grants up to $1,000. This may not seem like much, but that thousand dollars helps offset the financial

risk that farmers incur when they experiment with unique products, which helps diversify whats available locally and give farmers a niche with which

they can distinguish themselves. Slow Foods Kelly Childs reports that about $30,000 has been awarded in the past four years. Jody Vogler and

Tim McHale, for example, were awarded $1,000 to lease an acre of land at EarthDance Farm; rent a booth at the Old North City Farmers Market; and

buy seeds, irrigation, market supplies and fertilizer. Childs says: They grew heirloom beans, squash, tomatoes, peppers, okra and corn using integrated

pest management and no-till planting methods with drip irrigation. The produce was sold at Old North City Market, which is located in an urban food

desert. Yours Inc. Farm, which is connected to Yours Market, was awarded $763.50 to grow soul food vegetables and it is planning a series of dinners

as well. We are just about to open applications for 2013, says Childs, and will be considering grants up to $2,000.

Kitchen KultureKitchen Kulture is the unlikely tale of a friendship between a line cook

and a waitress states Chris Meyer. Meyer and Mike Miller originally teamed up to create a line of food-themed T-shirts, but that quickly evolved into a totally different

concept. They still sell the shirts, but Kitchen Kulture took a challenge lack of funds for a brick-and-mortar restaurant and turned it into inspiration. The team secured a booth at Tower Grove

Farmers Market and source at least 60 percent of the ingredients used to create their prepared foods from TGFM vendors. They procure products from farmers early in the week; prep, cook and package the

dishes; and then sell the dishes each Saturday, calling attention to the farmers ingredients. They plate a suggested serving example so shoppers can understand the connection between the prepared

foods and the markets other vendors. This January the KK team will begin a series of monthly pop-up brunches at Sump. Mike and I both think brunch is grossly overlooked in terms of coursed meals

with pairings. We [plan to] do a brunch with set courses with paired coffee and cocktails, says Meyer. In February theyll debut pub pop-ups at the Contemporary Art Museum in

conjunction with the museums current British exhibition. Watch for even more innovation from this pair as 2013 unfolds.

The story of St. Louis burgeoning food movement is one told a meal at a time,WrITTEN BY Andrew Mark Veety cataloging the efforts of local artisans and

businesspeople invested in the idea that a vital future has as much to do with changing how we eat and drink as it does with the rehabilitation of buildings and neighborhoods. The concept is simple. St. Louis is more than a place where great things can be delivered to; St. Louis is a place where great things come from. This new culture has taken time to develop, and now the region and the rest of the nation is taking notice.

The building of businesses and focus on local pride have yielded dividends beyond those calculated in business plans and scribbled on the

backs of cocktail napkins. The most powerful realization is that a rising tide really does lift all boats, and a circle of mutual benefit is created when businesses and, more important, people partner with one another.

From chocolate to coffee, craft beer to entire menus, the act of working together in St. Louis is building more than products for sale; its pairing disparate skill sets and competencies to create results and relationships that are greater than the sum of their individual parts, strengthening our community in the process. The future of our food culture is here and we are building it together.

BioDeGraDaBle PacKaGinGWe all eat on the fly now and then, whether were grabbing a coffee and pastry for the commute to work, having lunch delivered to the office, or picking up a family-sized feast from our favorite

restaurant on a busy weeknight. Its quick, its convenient and its hassle-free. And it often, unfortunately, ends with a lot of packaging in the garbage bin. But local restaurants are helping us enjoy our grub on the go without a side of guilt by sending us on our way with biodegradable

packaging. Get your morning joe from Foundation Grounds or Pi in the Central West Ends morning coffee bar, and it comes in cute compostable cups with lids to match. All the packaging used at

Lulus Local Eatery, a food truck serving up dishes made with local and sustainable foods, is 100 percent biodegradable and compostable. And Fridas Deli serves its delicious smoothies (and other

to-go drinks) in biodegradable cups with compostable paper straws.

coMPoStinGStrolling down Washington Avenue, you may have noticed a sign in the windows

of eateries. It reads, We are a green restaurant. Its a symbol that the restaurant

is participating in Project Compost, a collaboration between the Partnership for Downtown St. Louis and Blue Skies Recycling that provides bins for those restaurants to deposit pre- and post-

compostable waste. The two-year pilot project, launched in 2012, aims to divert

more than 3,000 tons of organic food waste from landfills over the life of the project.

Currently only restaurants between 9th and 14th streets are included in the program, but the Partnership hopes to expand to include

all Downtown establishments.

recYclinGThe restaurant biz produces a lot of waste. But luckily, St. Louis

restaurants are keyed in to the importance of recycling. Plenty of fast-casual eateries and coffee shops have marked separate receptacles in their

dining areas for recyclables and are using recyclable paper and plastic wares for to-go orders, giving customers greater control over the fate of their trash. Behind

the scenes, many restaurants use recycling and composting services such as Blue Skies Recycling. This eco-conscious company assesses a restaurants waste output and installs the proper types and number of bins behind the

restaurant. When they fill up, Blue Skies empties and sanitizes the bins and makes sure the waste stays out of landfills.

The roots of the product- and service-based collaborations we see today build upon a rich foundation of partnership that developed when a handful of restaurants and chefs looked to small, local farmers for ingredients that would differentiate their menus, mixing skill and techniques with an ever more diverse collection of heirloom produce and breeds of livestock. The end result was not products per se these would appear later in the partnership evolution; call it Collaboration 2.0 but an elevation in the quality of dishes and, ultimately, a proliferation of dining destinations that focused on local ingredients and the growing footprint of small farmers.

When it comes to products, St. Louis consumers may be most familiar with the result of the longtime collaboration between The Saint Louis Brewery brewer of Schlafly beer and Kaldis Coffee: a coffee stout that has become one of the brewerys most beloved seasonal releases. The partnership was largely unplanned, resulting from extracurricular visits to the Schlafly Tap room by Kaldis employees for pints of stout served with shots of their own coffee on the side, casually combined at the drinkers own pace to make a single, unified beverage. From the convivial act of sharing a beer after work, a coffee stout was born. Kaldis started collaborating with Schlafly, recalls Frank McGinty, director of marketing at Kaldis. Being young, local companies at the time, it seemed to make sense.

Since then, both Kaldis and Schlafly have ventured out into new collaboration projects, says McGinty, referring to the coffee companys growing portfolio of co-branded products produced with Patric Chocolate, Fitzs root Beer and Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. We find ourselves partnering with other locally owned, small businesses with a similar focus on quality and community. Honestly, most collaborations

have started over casual conversation and tasting, then through research and development to find recipes and flavor profiles that seem to work.

The Kaldis approach