Scandinavian Brewers Review 20014, 3

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IN THIS ISSUE: AN OUTLOOK FOR CRAFT BREWING IN SCANDINAVIA, INVESTMENTS IN NEW BREWHOUSES IN SWEDISH MICROBREWERIES, 50 ACHIEVEMENTS IN BREWING SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY – PART TWO,

CONFERENCE ON NORDIC BEER, 25 BREWERIES YOU SHOULD KNOW, BEER LOVERS GATHERED FOR GREAT AMERICAN BEER FESTIVAL AND MUCH MORE…

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ART ICLE

SCANDINAVIAN BREWERS’ REVIEW . VOL.73 NO.3 2014 5

CONTENTSCONTENTS

Membership journal of:The Danish Brewers' GuildThe Swedish Brewers' GuildThe Norwegian Brewers' Guild

Published every even monthMinimum printing: 1.000 copies

Publisher and distribution:Dansk Brygmester Forening(Danish Brewmasters' Guild)Benny [email protected] Carlsberg Vej 100DK-1799 Copenhagen VTel.: +45 3327 4556

Subscription:Per year, excluding VAT:Denmark €40, Europe €51,rest of world €61,50E-mail: [email protected]

Printed by:PE Offset A/STømrervej 9DK-6800 VardeTel.: +45 7695 1717www.peoffset.dk

Advertisement sales and material:Rosendahls Mediaservice A/SHerstedvang 10 BDK-2620 Albertslundwww.rosendahls.dkTel.: +45 7610 1136E-mail: [email protected]

Head Consultant:Account Manager Peter Brandi

Editorial board:Tuen-media as, Åbogade 40DK-8200 Aarhus Nwww.tuen.dkTel.: +45 8621 3000E-mail: [email protected]

Editor-in-chief:Andres Tue Møller

Sub-editor:Louise Karlsen

Proofreader:Joel Southern

Design:Jakob Guldbrandt

Technical editor:Anders KissmeyerE-mail: [email protected]

National contact persons:Roger Løe (NO)E-mail: [email protected]

Saara Pöyri (FI)E-mail: [email protected]

Uwe Leibfacher (SE)E-mail: [email protected]

6 EDI T OR I A L

A N OU T LOOK FOR CR A F T BR E WING IN SCA NDIN AV I A

8 IN V E S T ME N T S IN NE W BR E W HOUSE S IN S W EDISH MICROBR E W ER IE S

PA R T T HR EE OF A SER IE S OF A R T ICLE S BY UW E LE IBFACHER

12 AU T OM AT IC Y E A S T P I T CHING CON T ROL A ND BEER QUA L I T Y

A N OV ERV IE W OF BA SIC IS SUE S

16 50 ACHIE V EME N T S IN BR E WING SCIE NCE A ND T ECHNOLOGY IN 350 Y E A RS – PA R T 2

1930 S T O OUR T IME S

20 CONFER E NCE ON ‘NOR DIC BEER’

R EPOR T FROM T HE F IRS T-E V ER CONFER E NCE ON ‘NOR DIC BEER’

25 25 BR E W ER IE S YOU SHOULD K NOW

R E A D T HE F IRS T PA R T OF T HE IN T ER E S T ING L IS T

28 BA SIC QUA L I T Y M A N AGEME N T – M A SHING

M A SH SYS T EMS A ND V E S SEL S : A BR IEF R E V IE W – PA R T 3

32 BEER LOV ERS GAT HER ED FOR GR E AT A MER IC A N BEER FE S T IVA L

R E A D A BOU T T HE BIGGE S T BEER CELEBR AT ION ON E A R T H

3 4 ORGA NIC M A LT S – DIFFER E N T FROM CON V E N T ION A L?

S T UDY OF F INNISH M A LT ING BA R LE YS

36 DU T CH L AGER S T Y LE S 1870 - 1960

T HE HIS T ORY OF DU T CH L AGER CON T INUE S – R E A D PA R T 2 OF RON PAT T INSON’S A R T ICLE

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in THis issUE: An OUTLOOK FOR CRAFT BREWinG in sCAnDinAViA, inVEsTMEnTs in nEW BREWHOUsEs in sWEDisH MiCROBREWERiEs, 50 ACHiEVEMEnTs in BREWinG sCiEnCE AnD TECHnOLOGY – PART TWO,

COnFEREnCE On nORDiC BEER, 25 BREWERiEs YOU sHOULD KnOW, BEER LOVERs GATHERED FOR GREAT AMERiCAn BEER FEsTiVAL AnD MUCH MORE…

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Scandinavian Brewers' ReviewDecember – Volume 73, no. 3Cover photo: Nils Oscar - Kaspar Schulz brewhouse

EDITORIAL

6 SCANDINAVIAN BREWERS’ REVIEW . VOL.73 NO.3 2014

AN OUTLOOK FOR CRAFT BREWING IN SCANDINAVIAA N D E R S K I S S M E Y E R , T E C H N I C A L E D I T O R , E - M A I L : A N D E R S @ K I S S M E Y E R . D K

Welcome to the 2014 ‘Craft Brewing Theme Issue’ of the Scandinavian Brewers’ Review! It is a pleasure to start such an issue with the observation that craft beer has a position in our region that is stronger than ever. Everything I hear from our neighbouring countries is that the ‘revolution’ is raging in their countries, and they very politely say that Norway, Iceland and Sweden are approximately 10-15 years behind the Danish craft beer revolution of the past and this decade. And the statistics will support that conclusion. Do the state monopolies on the sale of regular and higher-strength beers and the ban on advertising have anything to do with this? Both the market shares of local craft beer and the number of breweries are still far behind the situation in Denmark.

I do not have precise statistical data for the other countries, but I note that, in Denmark, the number of breweries (including so-called gypsy brewers that only have a brand and no physical brewery) today stands at around 150 – clearly an all-time high and still an undisputed world record! So the public myth, fuelled by articles in the media in past years on the economic hardship and the ensuing abundant closures and bankruptcies in the craft segment, can be dismissed entirely. A recent thorough background article in the Danish daily newspaper Berlingske showed that the number of Danish craft breweries with a positive

net result on their bottom lines has increased dramatically over the past couple of years – a few of them posting net gains of more than 5 million DKK for 2013. The share that Danish craft beer had of the total beer market in 2013 was, according to the Danish Brewers’ Association, 5.9%, and the share of imported beers was 7.8%. So a total of 13.7%, even though counting all the imports as craft is not justifiable for reasons explained below. But, if around a third of the imports are counted as craft, we still reach a very encouraging total of 8.5% for craft in Denmark.

The scene is vibrant in all our countries, with smaller and larger beer festivals popping up everywhere; the social media in all our countries are afloat with beer blogs and brewery-consumer communication. The number of beer bars with an exorbitant choice of both local and imported is growing all over our region. In Denmark and Copenhagen, in particular, the number is exploding these years, and one of the latest newcomers on the scene, Taphouse, offers a staggering 61 draft beer taps – all craft beer!

The success of craft beer in Scandinavia and the Nordic region is, as I’m sure most of you readers are aware of, not a phenomenon isolated to our region. In the US, the share of local craft is racing towards the 10% mark – craft growth in 2013 was 17.2% – based on volume, and the number of breweries is skyrocketing to way over 3,400 this year, bringing the number of them to a level not seen since the mid-1800s. At the recent BrauBeviale in Nuremberg, the display of equipment offered to the craft segment was almost as dominant as the corresponding ‘stuff’ for the big breweries, reflecting where the growth and the investments are to be found these days. On a recent trip to Bavaria, the Hallertau to be exact, I had the pleasure of drinking excellent, locally-brewed IPAs and Pale Ales. Brewed with local hops, of course, but the mere fact that these beer types are now brewed in Bavaria – probably the most ‘beer conservative’ region in the whole world – speaks a very clear language.

And in our region, we are at the forefront in developing our own, local beer styles and products as expressed through the release of more and more such beers and as exemplified by the success of the ‘Nordic Beer’ movement. The recent conference on ‘Nordic Beer’ that took place in Korsør, Denmark, in early November


(covered by a specific article in this issue of the SBR) was an overwhelming statement about the momentum of this movement.

So is everything rosy and the future without challenges? No, of course not! The craft segment in the Nordic region still faces plenty of these. In Denmark, we see an increasing competition orchestrated by the major supermarket chains successfully exploiting the interest in craft by importing loads of cheap beer from the Czech Republic and Germany and placing these on the shelves next to ‘real’ craft beer, thus tempting the curious but still price-conscious consumers by indirectly promising them a craft experience at next to no cost. This obviously puts pressure on the prices, and, at least in Denmark, we have to take a close look at costs and pricing, as it is not a coincidence that, in America, the price ratio between craft and ‘regular’ is generally about 1.5 to 1, whereas it in Denmark is between 3-4 to 1 for local quality craft beer. The difficulties involved with distribution are still a huge ‘bump on the road’, as the craft distribution business has not, by any means, grown in numbers and professionalism at the rate that the brewing side of the segment has. At the most basic level, we still have a challenge in catching the attention of the majority of the ‘regular’ beer consumers, who still think that craft beer is too expensive. It will take a long, hard pull to convince these people that beer is more than a cheap commodity and that, if you spend the extra money, you get more than your money’s worth in added value. In our struggle to achieve this, we desperately need the support of the culinary world. But as I outlined in some detail in a previous editorial in the SBR, although we talk a lot about this, we have not come very far yet.

In Norway, Finland, Iceland and Sweden, the strangling and apparently futile limitations on communication to the public by brewers, the state monopolies and the exorbitant beer taxes also represent battlefields on which our victory is not right around the corner; in order to prevail, it will demand the joining of all good forces. I used the word ‘futile’ about the effect of the over-restrictive alcohol policies in the other Nordic countries, and to those that find this rather opinionated, I will only refer to the data published in October showing that the per capita total alcohol consumption in Sweden is now higher than in Denmark – the country often portrayed as ‘Sodom and Gomorra’ by prohibitionist politicians in our neighbouring countries. So, why not finish this editorial with a typical Anders Kissmeyer provocative statement: Maybe if the politicians in Norway, Iceland, Sweden and Finland allowed craft brewers to communicate freely with their consumers – and perhaps even allowed the consumers to buy beer directly at the brewery when they visit? – this would help nudge a shift from binge drinking of large quantities of cheap alcoholic beverages towards a more limited consumption of flavourful and satisfying craft beer.

We have come a long way, we are still gathering speed and momentum, but we still have a long way to go!

Drop me a line or two to let me know your views at [email protected].

Anders Kissmeyer

AN OUTLOOK FOR CRAFT BREWING IN SCANDINAVIA


ART ICLE

INTRODUCTIONThe Swedish microbrewery scene experienced a fast growth in the last decade. Several companies faced capacity problems that made it necessary to exchange their brewhouse equipment for bigger equipment. As a result, some more new brewhouses have been/will be installed in Sweden in 2014 and 2015. The different breweries chose different approaches to plan and to realize their investments and even different suppliers. We have already met Sigtuna Brygghus and Dugges Ale- & Porterbryggeri in 2012 and heard about their experiences. The third company to visit is Nils Oscar Company AB, which is situated in Nyköping.

BACKGROUNDNils Oscar Company probably is unique in Scandinavia, and perhaps in the whole world: they can boast that they actually control the whole chain – from the fields of grain to the bottle. Apart from that, Nils Oscar Company is the most well-known microbrewery in Sweden, according to a survey from Novus Opinion in May 2014.

On the fields around Tärnö Manor Farm, located one hour from Stockholm, the crops cultivated are the raw materials for all of the Nils Oscar product range. These products include several kinds of beer and distilled products. The barley, wheat, rye and oats then get malted in Nils Oscar’s own malthouse at Tärnö Manor Farm.

This malt becomes a key component in Nils Oscar’s beer and spirit production process. An amazing fact, that one single

company is responsible for cultivation, malting, brewing and distilling, all under one roof – and under one brand!

Nils Oscar Sundberg, who is depicted in the well-known brand, was the genuine article. He was both the grandfather of and the childhood idol of Karl-David Sundberg, the current owner of the Nils Oscar Company, having worked as a farmer both in the US and in Sweden. Nils Oscar personifies the genuine values that Nils Oscar Company products stand for in every aspect.

In 2006, ten years after the start at Kungsholmen in Stockholm, the brewery moved to Nyköping and enlarged the capacity from 5,000 hl per year to 20,000 hl per year. However, due to limitations with the hot water supply, there was no possibility to brew as much as that. Even the existing bottling line had limitations so that both brewing and bottling on Saturdays got scheduled more and more often. In the beginning of 2012, the demand for Nils Oscar beers had grown to an extent that it got bigger than the actual capacity. As a result, discussions started on how to face the growing demand.

The new capacity goal was defined to be 50,000 hl per year, and there were several alternatives evaluated with regard to the future location of the brewery:• EnlargingattheexistinglocationatFruängskällaninNyköping• MovingthebrewerytoTärnöManorFarm• MovingthebrewerytoanotherlocationinNyköping

Back in 2012, we began a series of articles by our good friend Uwe Leibfacher on some of the more interesting projects in Sweden, where there currently is a lot of growth and optimism in the craft beer business, leading to significant capacity expansions at many of the breweries. Uwe is, in his capacity as independent consultant on many of these projects, one of the persons closest to this development. So we are happy to bring the latest of his articles –this time on the Nils Oscar expansion.

INVESTMENTS IN NEW BREWHOUSES IN SWEDISH MICROBREWERIES PART 3

U W E L E I B FA C H E R , E - M A I L : L E I B FA C H E R . U W E @ T E L I A . C O M


INVESTMENTS IN NEW BREWHOUSES IN SWEDISH MICROBREWERIES – PART THREE

Nils Oscar started to look for possible equipment, both new and used. In February 2012, a very interesting alternative emerged with complete processing equipment manufactured by Kaspar Schulz in 2006. It contained a 50 hl brewhouse, the same size as Nils Oscar’s existing brewhouse. As a result, the existing tanks at Nils Oscar fi t well with that processing equipment. Th e only problem was that the equipment had been dismantled in 2009 and had been stored in more than 20 containers that were located in Bremen. Th ere had been plans to ship the equipment to Africa, but the project could not be realized and the owner started to look for a new buyer.

It was some kind of treasure hunting when four people went to Bremen in March 2012 in order to inspect the containers: Jonas Kandefelt and Patrick Holmqvist from Nils Oscar, Daniel Baum from Kaspar Schulz and Uwe Leibfacher got the opportunity to prove their fi tness by climbing round in the containers. What we saw was better than what we had expected beforehand, so both Kaspar Schulz and Uwe Leibfacher recommended the purchase of the equipment to Nils Oscar, which followed the advice. As a result, 20 containers were delivered to Tärnö Manor Farm in August 2012. Some containers containing a bottling line remained in Bremen as this equipment was excluded from the purchase.

When the containers came to Tärnö, no decision regarding the future location of the brewery had yet been made. It took some more months to evaluate all the advantages and disadvantages of the three alternatives. Th en, in spring 2013, the fi nal decision to stay at Fruängskällan was defi ned.

Nils Oscar even decided to order additional equipment for the brewhouse from Kaspar Schulz. Th e companies to be involved during installation and start-up were chosen, too. Both the electricians from Freddan’s El och Bygg AB and the welders from Maseco AB had been engaged already in 2006 when the brewery at Fruängskällan was built. Th e installation work was coordinated by Leibfacher CBB Consulting in 2006, and they also got the new order for the coming installations in 2013 and 2014.

DESCRIPTION OF THE ORIGINAL KASPAR SCHULZ 50 HL BREWHOUSEIn the original shape from 2006, the Kaspar Schulz equipment was a three-vessel brewhouse with a combined mash and wort kettle, lauter tun and whirlpool. Th e mash and wort kettle was equipped with bottom zones for heating the mash and with an internal cooker for boiling the wort. Th e kettle was even equipped with an Opti-masher. Th e vessels had been positioned in a row with

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an operator platform between the vessels and the wall behind. All piping was situated within the vessel frames and underneath the operator platform. The brewhouse had separate CIP equipment for cleaning the vessels and the wort line to the fermenting tanks (heated caustic tank).

The control was fully automatic apart from removing the hot break from the whirlpool. Additional equipment that was also integrated into the brewhouse control included three malt silos, malt mill and malt transport system as well as buffer tanks for cold water and hot water. Also, the temperature control for 10 fermenting tanks was operated from the brewhouse, whereas the bright beer tanks had been manually controlled. In that application, the capacity was three brews per day.

Nils Oscar decided to enlarge capacity with an additional wort kettle installed with Schoko equipment. Further decisions included some changes in the layout:• Movingthecaustictankandthewortcooler• Installingatankforthehotbreakandahotbreakpumpin

order to pump the hot break from the tank to the lauter tun (as Nils Oscar is not allowed to drain the hot break into the sewer, it is necessary to add the hot break to the spent grains)

• PlacingtheadditionalwortkettleandtheSchokoontheotherside of the operator platform in order to get two rows of vessels

• Movingtheoperatorplatformstairstotheotherside• Placingthelautergrantontheoperatorplatform• Dismantlingtheinternalcookerfromthemashkettle• Newlayoutforthemaltsilosandthemalttransport

Also the degree of automatic control was expanded:• Emptyingthehotbreaktothehotbreaktankandwhirlpool

cleaning• Temperaturecontrolfor4brightbeertanksand2yeastvessels

PREPARING FOR INSTALLATIONAt the end of June 2013, some more sports had to be executed. Daniel Baum and Uwe Leibfacher emptied the equipment from the majority of the containers together with Andreas Johansson from Maseco. We gathered all the parts belonging to the brewhouse and put them back, sorted up according to the coming installation. As we should install not only a brewhouse but a complete brewery, a lot of details had to be noticed, even regarding other equipment. As a result, we had a plan for what was contained in the several containers and a schedule for the transport from Tärnö to the brewery in Nyköping. Because of lack of space at the brewery site, it was necessary to empty all containers at Tärnö before transporting the equipment to the brewery. Another decision was that the brewhouse should be completed with the additional equipment before starting up operation.

INSTALLATIONNils Oscar built a new processing hall that was connected with the existing brewhouse building. In November 2013, the hall was ready for the installation of equipment. The first step was the installation of fermenting tanks and bright beer tanks in a separate room in the hall, followed by the water tanks. In December 2013, the mounting of the brewhouse started. As the delivery of the additional equipment from Kaspar Schulz got delayed, the brewhouse installation could not be finished before 2014. The first brews were done in May. After some days of parallel brewing in the old and the new brewhouses, the New wort kettle and Schoko under installation april 2014.

Brewhouse vessels from 2006 under installation december 2013.



Uwe Leibfacher is an experienced brewmaster (graduated with Diplom-Braumeister at TU München-Weihenstephan in 1988) who worked in leading positions in several breweries in Germany and Sweden until 2002. Since 2003, he has been running his own company, Leibfacher CBB Consulting AB, based in Halmstad/Sweden. Uwe Leibfacher has been involved in many smaller and bigger beverage projects in Scandinavia such as the delivery and commissioning of the Nørrebro Bryghus bottling line at Baldersbrønde in 2005, enlarging and relocating the Nils Oscar Company in 2006 from central Stockholm to Nyköping, preparation of Herrljunga Cider for BRC certification 2010 and several piping layouts for processing equipment in breweries and soft drink plants.

CONTACT:Uwe LeibfacherLeibfacher CBB Consulting ABTylövägen 28 AS - 302 70 Halmstadwww.leibfacher-cbbconsulting.seMobiltel. +46-(0)730-794154Mail: [email protected]

A B O U T T H E A U T H O R

old brewhouse went out of operation, marking a milestone in Nils Oscar’s history. From now on, they could brew what they wanted and not only what the brewhouse allowed.

Maseco AB was responsible for the main part of the installation of all processing equipment, and Henrik Karlenberg did a great job in leading that. We had good help from EMA Specialtransporter with both transporting all equipment from Tärnö to Nyköping and unloading other equipment that was directly delivered to the brewery.

With regard to the brewhouse, it was some kind of lottery in regard to which components would work and which components needed to be replaced after several years of container storage. We were glad to realize that most of the components worked. There was only a little need for replacement, mainly of electrical components. Freddan’s El & Bygg succeeded in solving some electrical mysteries during installation and, finally, there were no unmarked cables left.

DESCRIPTION OF THE COMPLETED KASPAR SCHULZ 50 HL BREWHOUSEThe brewhouse is a four-vessel brewhouse consisting of mash kettle, lauter tun, wort kettle with Schoko and whirlpool. The internal cooker has been removed from the mash kettle. The whirlpool has been equipped with a nozzle for removing the hot break to the tank. The capacity is 6 brews per day.

The control system has been enlarged to cover the following equipment:• Temperaturecontrolfor10fermentingtanks• Temperaturecontrolfor4brightbeertanks• Temperaturecontrolfor2yeastvessels• Temperaturecontrolandvolumecontrolofhotwatertank• Volumecontrolofcoldwatertank• Temperaturecontrolandconductivitycontrolofcaustictank

(CIP brewhouse)• Fillingandemptyingofmaltsilosandmaltmilling• Mashing• Lauteringandspentgrainremoval• Wortboilingandcooling

Nils Oscar expected to be able to reduce the amounts of malt and hops when moving brewing from the old one to the Kaspar Schulz brewhouse. These expectations were fulfilled with around 20% less malt and 10% less hops per brew. The adaption of recipes from the old to the new worked well, and the quality of the brews from the Kaspar Schulz brewhouse

convinced even very critical beer tasters. Both smell and taste have become cleaner, still keeping the typical character, and the foam has improved a lot.

All the changes and modifications that were made from the original 2006 brewhouse to the updated 2014 version worked out well. This was achieved in close cooperation between Dietram Härtl and Christian Grasser from Kaspar Schulz, Uwe Leibfacher and Nils Oscar. All processing and brewhouse routines had been defined by Uwe Leibfacher in order to achieve optimal hygiene and flexibility.


ART ICLE

The real stars of the craft brewing industry are the ingredients. Craft enthusiasts grab the latest offering from their favourite brewery or a newcomer off the shelf and immediately check the label. What’s in this? What’s special about it? Invariably, they’ll get some facts or maybe some prose about the hops and malts used to create that batch.

But what about the yeast? Well, probably no one is buying their beer based on the mathematics of your yeast pitching, but behind the scenes, hitting the perfect yeast pitch will make sure your marketing descriptions match the actual flavours of your final product in every batch.

So can we hit the perfect yeast pitch? Yes, we can – and we can reach it while doing other things, letting a machine do the work.

YEAST PITCHING BASICSLet’s review the basics and the impact yeast and pitch rate have on beer. For the basics, we turn to the great book “Yeast – the

practical guide to beer fermentation” by Chris White and Jamil Zainasheff. They recommend:• Forales,cellstopitch=(0.75million)x(mlofwort)x

(degrees Plato of the wort)• Forlagers,cellstopitch=(1.5million)x(mlofwort)x

(degrees Plato of the wort)

“It is important to emphasize the importance of pitching rate to overall fermentation performance and beer analysis,” said Chris Boulton, a professor with the University of Nottingham and author of “Brewing Yeast and Fermentation.” “Precise regulation of this parameter is key to ensuring consistent performance both in terms of fermentation cycle times but also with regard to yeast growth extent and the related efficiency of conversion of extract into ethanol and the formation of yeast-derived beer flavour components.”

H E I D I H E R U P F R O M I N S AT E C H A / S O N B E H A L F O F C R A F T B R E W I N G B U S I N E S S . C O M

AUTOMATIC YEAST PITCHING CONTROL AND BEER QUALITY

A LOW PITCH RATE CAN LEAD TO:• Excesslevelsofdiacetyl• Increaseinhigher/fuselalcoholformation• Increaseinesterformation• Increaseinvolatilesulphurcompounds• Highterminalgravities• Stuck,sloworincompletefermentations• Increasedriskofinfection

HIGH PITCH RATES CAN LEAD TO:• Verylowesterproduction• Veryfastfermentations• Thinorlackingbody/mouthfeel• Autolysis(Yeastyflavoursduetolysingofcells)

T H E S P E C I F I C Q U A L I T Y A N D P R O C E S S I S S U E S T I E D T O O V E R - O R U N D E R - P I T C H I N G A R E :

This article by Heidi Herup of Insatech A/S gives a good overview of some basic issues related to yeast pitching rates and outlines why control of these are indispensable for any brewer, large or small, who wants to gain full control of the process times and the finished beer quality. The article is brought to you by courtesy of CraftBrewingBusiness.com, where it has previously been featured.

The professional brewer can’t predict how much of the yeast is viable or inspect it at a micro level, but the right technology can.

AUTOMAT IC YEAST P ITCH ING CONTROL AND BEER QUAL ITY


Both scenarios can lead to high losses, poor yeast management and increased batch-to-batch variation. John Carvell, sales and marketing director with Aber Instruments, noted that larger brewers tend to set very tight tolerances on yeast pitching rates, and these have to be +/- 10 percent of the target rate. So, if the pitching rate was 20 million cells/ml, it has to be 18 to 22 million cells/ml to be within target.

Mobile pitching skid that can probe and factor in the on-line live yeast cell count to around +/- 2% to 5%.

AUTOMATION HAS AN ANSWERKnowing the science and executing it within the brewing process are two different things, and even the most diligent craft brewer might over or underestimate their yeast cell count because of the unpredictability of things at the micro’est of micro levels. Not all yeast cells are viable, so specifying how much yeast should be added, based solely on know-how

and formula tables, will not produce a consistently accurate outcome.

This is where the machines come into play. The professional brewer can’t predict how much of the yeast is viable or inspect it at a micro level, but the right technology can.

“The key here is repeatability,” Boulton says. “Conventional control of pitching rate is based on analysis of pitching yeast slurries. This can be via measurement of spun solids or based on cell counts. Preferably there will also be a correction for viability, typically based on the use of a haemocytometer counting chamber containing yeast cells stained with methylene blue. This correction is not always carried out. Both of the methods of yeast slurry analysis are subject to significant errors because of the inherent difficulty of counting large numbers of cells and because of the presence of variable amounts of non-yeast solids.”

“Previous work, in which the performance of a number of analysts working with replicate samples of slurries has been compared, suggested that in absolute terms the precision of manual counting methods is no better than +/- 20 percent,” Boulton continued.

With technology like Aber Instruments’ PerfectPitch, a mobile pitching skid that can probe and factor in the on-line live yeast cell count, the error rate is reduced to around +/- 2 percent to 5 percent.

“The presence of variable amounts of trub in pitching yeast slurries means that under-pitching is the most likely error. This is a cause for concern but is probably outweighed by the poor repeatability of manual analyses. The errors are not related to recipe,” Boulton said.


AUTOMAT IC YEAST P ITCH ING CONTROL AND BEER QUAL ITY

As an example of the technology involved in gaining full control of the pitching rates, we have chosen PerfectPitch from Aber Instruments. The PerfectPitch skid is comprised of the Aber Compact probe, a flow meter and a V350 monitor that serves as a mini PLC. The PLC on the skid calculates the total number of live yeast cells being transferred over. This figure is calculated from the combination of the live cell concentration (cells/ml) and the flow rate of the yeast slurry. The compact and the flow meter communicate with the V350 to ensure the correct concentration of live yeast has been pitched. A beacon on the PerfectPitch comes on when the pre-set target concentration is reached, which can be used as an indicator to switch off the pump.

Breweries that employ cone-to-cone pitching will really benefit from this approach as taking a representative sample from the bottom of the yeast cone is impossible due the heterogeneous nature of the yeast slurry at the bottom of the cone.

BENEFITS BEYOND BEERSo, accurately analysing cells in real time helps protect brews from the potential off-flavours and issues mentioned earlier, which enables the brewer to have a better and more consistent product hit the market. Consistently producing quality beer, while reducing losses, is a perfect model for cost-savings.

“Quantitative cost-savings can be couched in terms of poor vessel utilization such that variable cycle times result in an inability

The Compact Adapt Yeast Monitor and Flow Meter.

to forward plan with accuracy, and therefore more vessels are required to meet production demands,” Boulton said. “The additional vessels attract both capex (investment) and opex (operational) costs.”

A US-based craft brewer reported in 2012 and 2013 that it was throwing away approximately 2,000 HL of beer per year due to under-pitching. So, estimate how much money one barrel of your production costs you, and then consider that loss. This brewer calculated that it was losing potentially $30,000 per year. The production costs for smaller breweries are likely to be even higher per HL!

For those interested in eliminating this concern from their production, some means of reliable pitching control must be introduced. If this interest is specifically aimed at the PerfectPitch, the product can be said to fit craft breweries with an output of 25,000 HL barrels per year and upward.

For further information on the Aber Instruments solutions, please contact Insatech A/S on [email protected] or call +45 55372095.

F U R T H E R I N F O R M AT I O N


ART ICLE

SINGLE HOP AND MIXED HOP VARIETY AROMASTh e challenge of predicting the aroma, fl avor and taste eff ect of diff erent hop varieties in fi nished beer is one that craft brewers have to deal with on a regular basis. Most of us are intrigued, fascinated and sometimes confused by this issue, and certainly the quickly increasing supply of new hop varieties does not make the job any easier. But now it seems that the hop suppliers might give us a little bit of guidance as demonstrated by this short article from Hopsteiner.

VARIETY USED FOR DRY HOPPING

(IN TOTAL 300G / HL)BLENDING

Pale Ale 1 US Lemondrop purePale Ale 2 US Calypso purePale Ale 3 German Polaris purePale Ale 4 German Cascade purePale Ale 5 US Calypso & German Cascade ½ eachPale Ale 6 US Lemondrop & US Calypso & German

Cascade 1/3 each

Pale Ale 7 German Polaris & German Cascade ½ eachPale Ale 8 US Lemondrop & US Calypso ½ each

SINGLE HOP AND MIXED HOP VARIETY AROMASAt the Hopsteiner Forum in July 2014 a selection of Pale Ales were presented to an audience of brewers and brewing scientists to show the impact on beer aroma by only using diff erent hop varieties for dry hopping.

Unique and partly new hop varieties were selected to produce four single hopped beers and in addition four mixed combinations.

Th e base beer of all eight Pale Ales was identical (14°P, 6% abv.) and exclusively made using Hallertau Tradition in the brewhouse. Th e following varieties and blendings thereof were used to create a selection of various dry hopping aromas.

TASTING RESULTSEach of the following fi gures compares the fl avor profi le of the single hopped Pale Ales and their blendings.

Figure 1 and 2 show an increase of fruity and citrusy aroma profi les if hops were used in mixed combinations. Th erefore, their initial fl avor characteristics were even more pronounced. Th e mixture of three varieties (see fi g.3) seem to become indistinct compared to the single hopped profi les. However, depending on certain dominating aroma components, some varieties like Polaris (see fi g. 4) even keep their typical aroma characteristic if used in a mixture of hop varieties.

HOPSTEINER | N E W S L E T T E R 0 8 / 2 0 1 4

T E C H N I C A L S U P P O RTN E W S L E T T E R 0 8 / 2 0 1 4

Newsletter, August 2014

Single Hop and mixed Hop Variety Aromas

At the Hopsteiner Forum in July 2014 a selection of Pale Ales were presented to an audience of brewers and brewing scientists to show the impact on beer aroma by only using di�erent hop varieties for dry hopping.

Unique and partly new hop varieties were se-lected to produce four single hopped beers and in addition four mixed combinations.

The base beer of all eight Pale Ales was identi -cal (14°P, 6% abv.) and exclusively made us -ing Hallertau Tradition in the brewhouse. The following varieties and blendings thereof were used to create a selection of various dry hop -ping aromas.

Tasting Results

Each of the following figures compares the fla -vor profile of the single hopped Pale Ales and their blendings.

Figure 1 and 2 show an increase of fruity and citrusy aroma profiles if hops were used in mixed combinations. Therefore, their initial flavor characteristics were even more pro -nounced. The mixture of three varieties (see fig.3) seem to become indistinct compared to the single hopped profiles. However, depend-ing on certain dominating aroma components, some varieties like Polaris (see fig. 4) even keep their typical aroma characteristic if used in a mixture of hop varieties.

If you have any further questions please do not hesitate to contact us.

3

citrusy

fruity

floral

herbal

spicy

resinous

sugarlike

misc.

Calypso

Cascade

Calypso /Cascade

Fig. 1

6

citrusy

fruity

floral

herbal

spicy

resinous

sugarlike

misc.

Lemondrop

Calypso

Lemondrop /Calypso

Fig. 2

4

citrusy

fruity

floral

herbal

spicy

resinous

sugarlike

misc.

Lemondrop

Calypso

Cascade

Lemondrop /Calypso /Cascade

Fig. 3

5

citrusy

fruity

floral

herbal

spicy

resinous

sugarlike

misc.

Polaris

Cascade

Polaris /Cascade

Fig. 4

COMMITTED TO THE BREWER

2

Variety used for Dry Hopping (in total 300g / hl) Blending

Pale Ale 1 US Lemondrop pure

Pale Ale 2 US Calypso pure

Pale Ale 3 German Polaris pure

Pale Ale 4 German Cascade pure

Pale Ale 5 US Calypso & German Cascade ½ each

Pale Ale 6 US Lemondrop & US Calypso & German Cascade ⅓ each

Pale Ale 7 German Polaris & German Cascade ½ each

Pale Ale 8 US Lemondrop & US Calypso ½ each

HOPSTEINER | N E W S L E T T E R 0 8 / 2 0 1 4

T E C H N I C A L S U P P O RTN E W S L E T T E R 0 8 / 2 0 1 4

Newsletter, August 2014

Single Hop and mixed Hop Variety Aromas

At the Hopsteiner Forum in July 2014 a selection of Pale Ales were presented to an audience of brewers and brewing scientists to show the impact on beer aroma by only using di�erent hop varieties for dry hopping.

Unique and partly new hop varieties were se-lected to produce four single hopped beers and in addition four mixed combinations.

The base beer of all eight Pale Ales was identi -cal (14°P, 6% abv.) and exclusively made us -ing Hallertau Tradition in the brewhouse. The following varieties and blendings thereof were used to create a selection of various dry hop -ping aromas.

Tasting Results

Each of the following figures compares the fla -vor profile of the single hopped Pale Ales and their blendings.

Figure 1 and 2 show an increase of fruity and citrusy aroma profiles if hops were used in mixed combinations. Therefore, their initial flavor characteristics were even more pro -nounced. The mixture of three varieties (see fig.3) seem to become indistinct compared to the single hopped profiles. However, depend-ing on certain dominating aroma components, some varieties like Polaris (see fig. 4) even keep their typical aroma characteristic if used in a mixture of hop varieties.

If you have any further questions please do not hesitate to contact us.

3

citrusy

fruity

floral

herbal

spicy

resinous

sugarlike

misc.

Calypso

Cascade

Calypso /Cascade

Fig. 1

6

citrusy

fruity

floral

herbal

spicy

resinous

sugarlike

misc.

Lemondrop

Calypso

Lemondrop /Calypso

Fig. 2

4

citrusy

fruity

floral

herbal

spicy

resinous

sugarlike

misc.

Lemondrop

Calypso

Cascade

Lemondrop /Calypso /Cascade

Fig. 3

5

citrusy

fruity

floral

herbal

spicy

resinous

sugarlike

misc.

Polaris

Cascade

Polaris /Cascade

Fig. 4

COMMITTED TO THE BREWER

2

Variety used for Dry Hopping (in total 300g / hl) Blending

Pale Ale 1 US Lemondrop pure

Pale Ale 2 US Calypso pure

Pale Ale 3 German Polaris pure

Pale Ale 4 German Cascade pure

Pale Ale 5 US Calypso & German Cascade ½ each

Pale Ale 6 US Lemondrop & US Calypso & German Cascade ⅓ each

Pale Ale 7 German Polaris & German Cascade ½ each

Pale Ale 8 US Lemondrop & US Calypso ½ each


ART ICLE

50 ACHIEVEMENTS IN BREWING SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY IN 350 YEARS – PART 2 1930s TO OUR TIMES

In the first part of this review of 350 years of technological improvements, adopting new machinery, new processes and science of botany, biochemistry, laboratory instruments, engineering and processing technology, we encountered 25 brewing science achievements in a chronological order. We have seen that scientists from Germany, the Czech Republic, England, Denmark and France dominated the scene.

In this part, Part 2, we shall see that, up through the 1970s, still many more brewing scientists come up with significant improvements and that, in the years after the 1970s, developments change direction and arise more and more from the industry suppliers. As in Part 1, the major brewing achievements are listed chronologically rather than according to importance:

26. Professor Øjvind Winge, the first genetics university professor in Denmark and later professor at Carlsberg Laboratory, Copenhagen, discovers sexual reproduction by brewer’s yeast in 1937, allowing controlled yeast breeding and the birth of genetic engineering. Professor Winge also started a hop breeding programme at Carlsberg Laboratory and ran a hop farm south of Copenhagen, which went on until the 1960s*.

27. Filtration of beer using kieselguhr from fossils originating from diatoms containing SiO2 become common since the 1940s, when kieselguhr (KG) or diatomaceous earth (DE), the fossilized remains of microscopic single-celled aquatic algae, find use as an efficient filter aid in several industries. Breweries are among those industries.

A X E L G . K R I S T I A N S E N , E - M A I L : A G K @ B R E W I N G S C H O O L . D K

We here bring you Part 2 of the fascinating ‘tour de force’ review from our ‘own’ Axel G. Kristiansen, director of The Scandinavian School of Brewing, of the events and inventions that have shaped our industry during the past three and a half centuries. This part takes us from the discovery of sexual reproduction of brewer’s yeast through to the school’s own proposal for a fully continuous, full-scale brewery. This article is brought to you with the generous and exclusive permission from Brauwelt International, where this article was first featured some months back.

28. Danish chemical engineer Viggo Berglund, Director at the Scandinavian School of Brewing, in April 1944 publishes a paper called ‘Vatten’ in the Swedish Brewer’s magazine. He documents and explains the phosphate and carbonate interdependent buffers in brewing water in the Danish language. Berglund’s work allowed a better understanding of the role of malt and water hardness, and it allowed the beginning of an era when systematic water treatment became common for brewhouse technology*.

29. The classic long and cold beer maturation was replaced by a warm primary fermentation followed by a shorter, but very cold, maturation, once the biological understanding of formation of diacetyl (butane-2,3-dione) during primary fermentation followed by removal of diacetyl at the end of the primary fermentation was gradually accepted. It can be debated as to when, but, since the 1950s, there is evidence of this understanding, which has changed and shortened the process for lager beer ever since.

30. Chemical stabilization of beer with different chemicals, first Nylon 66, later silica gel and PVP, becomes common during the 1960s, and there is evidence that, already in 1954, W.D. McFarlane & Co. used PVP to precipitate polyphenols. From 1961, McFarlane used PVPP (not PVP), and he delivered a presentation of his findings at the EBC Congress in Vienna, 1961.

Brewers Guinness and Carlsberg both worked with company ISP, the producer of ‘Polyclar AT’, in the early 1960s to develop the technology of “chemical stabilization’’ into practical use*.


50 ACHIEVEMENTS IN BREWING SC IENCE AND TECHNOLOGY IN 350 YEARS – PART 2 : 1930S TO OUR T IMES

31. Stainless steel replaces copper as brewhouse construction material – since the 1960s. This change of construction material was driven by a need to lower material costs, but also by the advent of craft allowing for hygienic welding of stainless steel.

32. Cylindroconical fermenters and fixed piping replace horizontal fermenters and hose connections – since late 1960s. In 1930, Swiss brewer, Dr. Leopold Nathan, in the J. Inst. Brewing 36, pp. 538-550, described fermentation in cylindroconical fermenters, and he patented the tank itself in 1908 and again in 1927. His fermenters were 100 hl enamel-lined tanks; later he used rolled aluminium plates – novel for that time. Brewers at that time were slow movers and suspicious of this type tank and this process for fermentation, and it was not until the 1960s that cylindroconical fermenters became common in breweries*.

33. Fermentation under increased tank pressure – up to 1.8 ato at the top – is applied by Technical Director, Master Brewer Henning Nielsen, at Faxe Brewery (today Royal Unibrew) in Denmark in combination with the primary temperature during fermentation raised from 10 to 16o C. This process achieved a significant shortening of process time in the CCTs, but also increased the need for stabilization. The process was introduced in 1975-76 in tall CCTs and inspired by German Dr. H. J. Wellhoener. The idea was to enhance efficiency by temperature while stalling the multiplication by CO2.

Independent of the new fermentation process, the brewery introduced the sales of only unpasteurized beer facilitated by an increased level of sanitation. The unpasteurised process was applied for 15 years to make a difference to competing brands (quote from Henning Nielsen, 1 Aug 2013).

34. In 1958, American Fred Calhoun founded the company Industrial Dynamics Filtec. This company is considered to be the first company manufacturing Empty Bottle Inspection machines (EBIs). Fred Calhoun created and sold the world’s first EBI in 1958. Efficient EBIs in beer bottling started generally to replace visual bottle inspection in the 1970s, when early EBIs, having only mouth and bottom bottle inspection, became available. Since the 1980s, nearly all returnable glass packaging lines have used EBIs (www.filtec.com/about).

35. The whirlpool separator for removing hops and trub after the wort boiling was introduced to replace the hop-backs at Molson's brewery in Canada in 1960 and was ubiquitous in breweries by the 1980s*.

36. Danish citizen and chemical engineer Morten Meilgaard, most of his career in senior technical roles with Stroh in USA, was asked to be the head of a ASBC work group, which in 1975 published ‘The flavour wheel origin’ in the J. ASBS. The work introduces a new flavour terminology based on 122 flavour expressions divided into 14 classes, soon after adopted by most nations and all large brewing groups worldwide. Meilgaard’s work creating a beer flavour language was quickly adopted by most breweries*.

37. High Gravity Brewing (HGB) using deaerated, softened and carbonated water became the practice for international lager brewers starting in the 1970s. An exact date and ‘first brewery’ are not identified – perhaps because the first users of this technique were not proud users before HGB became common practice for most lager brewers in the 1980s*.

38. Barley breeding: crop yield from spring barley, 2–row barley growing has steadily increased from 4 t/ha in the 1970s to 7 t/ha after the year 2000 in parts of the world where barley enjoys ideal growing conditions, i.e. in Northern Europe.

39. VTT, Hartwall and Sinebrychoff, all Finnish, invented an immobilized process for short and continuous maturation time for beer processing in Finland – around since the 1980s. Finnish citizen and chemical engineer Esko Pajunen, later President of EBC and Research Director of Carlsberg Laboratory, patented the process in the USA in 1990. The process was invented to allow for larger volume of beer processing with a limited number of fermenters during peak season. Although proven to work, the process did not obtain international popularity, and even in Finland it is not used very much, perhaps because the brewers are concerned with rapid spreading of potential infections*.

40. The scientific discipline of breeding yeast strains with particular properties has been available for a long time, first with natural breeding, later with GMO techniques. It has, since the 1980s, been understood that many fermentation properties can be targeted by smart breeding. Examples are flocculation, faster diacetyl reduction, special flavours, temperature robustness, etc.

41. A mash filter with high-speed lautering by use of a rubber membrane working under air pressure and a hammer mill producing > 12 brews in 24 hours and a yield of 100% extract was offered by Belgian Company Meura in 1987 (www.meura /our-company/history-peit.htm)



42. Beer in PET bottles was seen already in 1993 in basis PET bottles with classic closure. They had poor barrier characteristics, and shelf life was weeks rather than months. After the year 2000, multilayer PET and PET with inner carbon layer showed better barrier characteristics, and oxygen penetration became much better.

43. In the 1980s, a microarray approach for screening of yeast strains is introduced, generally known as an ‘Omnilog’. A phenotype-microarray system enables one to monitor simultaneously the phenotypic reaction of cells like yeast strains to environmental challenges spotted on microtiter plates. The phenotypic reactions are recorded as either end-point measurements or respiration kinetics similar to growth curves, and the technique nowadays allows for fast processing of vast amounts of cells and analysis of large data amounts for yeast breeders.

44. Increasingly, since the 1990s, breweries make use of Performance Management Systems to measure and act on underperformances. KPIs like waterfactor [hl / hl], % OEE, % extract losses, heating and cooling consumptions [kWh/hl] and commissioning test conditions [i.e. DIN 8782] become common brewery management concepts, starting from the international brewing groups, later common practice for all. However, no international industry standard is, achieved, as brewers increasingly act within their own company structure.

45. Low LOX barley varieties offering longer beer flavour stability are identified and patented with Patent no. WO02/053721 filed jointly by Carlsberg Research Centre, Heineken Technical Services and Brasserie Kronenbourg in 2002.

Nowadays, large quantities of Low LOX barley varieties are grown and malted, providing longer shelf life for lager beers.

46. With inspiration from other industries, brewers start to look at the whole manufacturing supply chain from procurement to distribution starting in the 2000s.

Early inspirations are companies outside the brewing industry such as Norwegian Orla and FMGC companies such as Anglo - Dutch UNILEVER, American Kraft Food and Swiss Nestle, which have developed and used Supply Chain Management (SCM) concepts to increase material flow, speed up service precision and lower logistics costs. In many cases, SCM is combined with Continuous Improvement (CI) concepts, particularly from car manufacturers, where especially Toyota has been a much used

inspiration for its Toyota Production System, commonly known as LEAN since Americans Jones & Womack in 1996 wrote the CI best seller ‘Lean thinking’. By the mid- 2000s, most international brewing groups focus on CI. Some use LEAN, some TPM, other Six Sigma, but all use CI to reduce losses, increase material flow and increase quality precision. Anyway, brewers were followers of SCM and CI, not innovators.

47. Experiments with membrane filtration – avoiding filter aids such as kieselguhr – have been ongoing in small scales since the 1980s. Westfalia/Pall had an early operation at Beck’s Bier in Bremen, Germany. The first large-scale plant supplied by Westfalia/Pall was commissioned by Head Brewer Anders Kokholm at the Carlsberg Fredericia Brewery in March 2005.

48. Application of a proline-specific endoprotease, trade name ‘Brewer’s Clarex’ from company DSM, allows chemical stabilization and filtration and removal of chill haze. This became possible around 2007, and ‘Brewer’s Clarex’ has been marketed large-scale since the Drinktec exhibition in Munich in 2009. In addition, the proline-specific endoprotease allows warm filtration at 4 – 7o C, this way saving beer filter cooling energy*.

49. Collection of CO2 from fermenters straight after wort tank filling – since 2010. This technique is still being tested at pilot breweries but is soon expected to become the industry standard.

50. A fully continuous, large-scale brewery with scope from milling to warehouse is proposed and documented by Scandinavian School of Brewing, published April (Part 1) and June (Part 2) 2011 in Brauwelt Intl.

The author of this article has a complete list of references for the background statements and results referred to in the article (these are marked by an asterix *). The list of references can be obtained by contacting the author at Axel Grøndahl Kristiansen [email protected]

E D I T O R ' S C O M M E N T



Axel G. Kristiansen graduated as Diploma Master Brewer from the Scandinavian School of Brewing in 1984, when he started a long and very varied career within the Carlsberg Group, with jobs ranging from managing the brewhouse at Carlsberg Copenhagen to being the head brewer at Birra Poretti in Italy. In 2004, Axel returned to The Scandinavian School of Brewing, this time as the director. Axel will be leaving his current job at the end of 2014 to take up a position as Vice President at The Technical University of Denmark.

CONTACT: [email protected]


ART ICLE


The purpose of the conference was partly to increase the general knowledge level about the coupling of beer with Nordic terroir amongst the participants, as well as, obviously, to strengthen the cooperation among the individual members of the value chain and among the Nordic countries. The conference was open to anyone interested in participating, and several hundred invitations had been sent out in August, resulting in an attendance of approximately 50 persons.

The planning and the organization of the conference were focused on making it encourage the networking aspect. And, at the beginning of the event, Anders Kissmeyer summarized the objectives and aspirations of the organizers as follows:

1. To strengthen existing networks and to form new ones, both across the value chain and across the national borders. The networks should give priority to very specific and concrete projects rather than ‘only’ encourage further discussions.

2. To formulate a massive amount of new ideas for Nordic beers and what they should be brewed from.

3. To exchange ideas on effective knowledge sharing, allowing anyone interested to follow the progress of the individual projects, what others have done and what they have achieved.

4. To inspire each other to innovate – in the field, in the forest, in the fruit plantations and greenhouses, at the plant breeders, at the maltsters and processors of fruits, herbs and plants, at the ingredient producers and merchants, at the breweries, in universities and other ‘knowledge institutions’ as well as amongst ‘external resource individuals’, e. g. consumers, restaurateurs, chefs, sommeliers, etc. All with a view towards strengthening the ‘Nordic Beer’ efforts.

5. To identify some of the many institutions, companies and persons in the value chain which have not yet been part of the project in order for us to engage them in our overall project.

6. To formulate ideas for future projects in formats that are suitable for applications for further funding – from the GUDP (Green Development and Demonstration Programme – the institution that has supported the current network project), the Nordic Council, EU funds, and all other potential sources of funds.

7. ...and last, but not least, to have a good time together enjoying good ‘Nordic Beer’-inspired beers!

The programme for the conference was as follows – with the most significant conclusions from the elements added:

On Friday, November 7th, and Saturday, the 8th, the first-ever conference on ‘Nordic Beer’ (Ny Nordisk Øl) took place at the Comwell Conference Centre in Korsør, Denmark. The conference, organized by the self-appointed but now ‘official’ Initiative Group (Bodil Pallesen of Agrotech, Per Kølster of Kølster Malt & Beer, communications consultant Christian Andersen and the undersigned), was part of the publicly-supported, 2-year ‘Nordic Beer’ network project running from June this year. We are pleased to announce that the conference, attended by representatives from the value chain in Norway, Sweden and Denmark, was a huge success with plenty of fruitful discussions pointing towards specific solutions to the issues focused on.

FIRST CONFERENCE ON ‘NORDIC BEER’, 7–8 NOVEMBER 2014

A N D E R S K I S S M E Y E R , T E C H N I C A L E D I T O R , E - M A I L : A N D E R S @ K I S S M E Y E R . D K

Anders Kissmeyer. Claus Meyer.

F IRST CONFERENCE ON NORDIC BEER , 7–8 NOVEMBER 2014


Besides thanking everyone involved and going through the objectives listed above, Anders went through the programme for the conference, outlining the various practical implications, and he reminded the participants of the vision of the overall Nordic Beer project: ‘To create a number of new beer styles that owe their distinct character to new raw materials and ingredients as well as to novel techniques applied in the handling of the ingredients, from the selection of cultivars through the breeding, the cultivation and the processing of them and finally to their application in the brewing processes. The journey towards the objectives takes place in a multitude of cooperating networks involving all links in the value chain. And the journey never ends...’

W E L C O M E B Y A N D E R S K I S S M E Y E R , K I S S M E Y E R B E E R & B R E W I N G

The minister expressed his apologies and regrets for not being able to attend in person. He stressed that he, as the minister also for beer and brewing in Denmark, even before taking office was broadly recognized for his huge interest in beer. Praising the initiative behind the Nordic Beer project in general and the conference specifically, the minister expressed his hopes that the overall project would produce a new, locally-founded and successful brewing culture in Denmark mirroring the success of the New Nordic Cuisine, and he wished us a good and fruitful conference.

V I D E O G R E E T I N G F R O M T H E D A N I S H M I N I S T E R O F F O O D , F I S H I N G A N D A G R I C U LT U R E , D A N J Ø R G E N S E N

Claus is one of the fathers of the New Nordic Cuisine movement – taking the initiative to the work that ended up in the so-called ‘Aarhus Declaration’ which formulated the principles behind the New Nordic Cuisine – as well as being a co-owner and co-founder of the restaurant ‘Noma’, the absolute flagship of NNC. Based on his personal experiences in this journey as well as his life-long passion for beer, Claus talked about the challenges of making terroir-based beer and the vision of elevating Nordic Beer to the same level of sophistication and public image as that of the wine universe.

V I S I O N S O F N O R D I C T E R R O I R A N D T H E N E W N O R D I C C U I S I N E – W H AT A R E T H E R E L E VA N T L E S S O N S F R O M T H I S T H AT C A N B E E X P L O I T E D B Y T H E ‘ N O R D I C B E E R ’ P R O J E C T ? B Y C L A U S M E Y E R , G A S T R O N O M I C E N T R E P R E N E U R

Kristian gave the audience an introduction to the Danish Parliamentary Beer Club and explained how this powerful group of Danish politicians, representing all political parties from left to right, looks at the Danish beer scene and offers support in any way it can. The club is firmly and fully behind the ‘Nordic Beer’ initiative, and with a promise of the club’s full attention if we need matters dealt with at the political level, Kristian also wished us a good conference.

V I S I O N S F O R B E E R A N D N O R D I C B E E R I N PA R T I C U -L A R , ‘ O L D E R M A N D ’ ( P R E S I D E N T ) O F T H E D A N I S H PA R L I A M E N TA R Y B E E R C L U B , K R I S T I A N P I H L L O R E N T Z E N



Before opening this point on the agenda, Anders Kissmeyer explained the reason for not having included Finland and Iceland among the countries to which invitations were sent. Basically, it was a question of prioritizing the time resources in preparation for the conference. Although the sum of money in the GUDP grant – 50% of a project budget of a little over 1.2 million DKK – seems like a lot, the time needed to prepare the conference far exceeded the number of hours in the budget, and it was therefore necessary to limit the invitations to Norway and Sweden as we in the initiative group already had a comprehensive list of contacts in these two countries that could be used for the invitations. We have no such lists for Iceland and Finland, and in general the communication between the craft beer communities in Scandinavia and the other Nordic countries is extremely limited – to the extent that we, at present, particularly consider Finland to be a ‘black hole’ in terms of communication. Of course, we hope that we’re able to remedy this shortcoming later on in the project, and Anders informed the conference that he had recently been contacted by the newly-elected chairman of

the Finnish Association of Small Breweries, Mika Heikkinen, so there is hope for future improvement of communications.

The four speakers gave an overview of the status of projects, results and perspectives for the ‘Nordic Beer’ activities in their respective countries. We hope to be able to give the readers of the SBR a comprehensive overview of the activities in Norway and Sweden in coming issues, and the status as far as Denmark is concerned has already been covered quite comprehensively – and further updates will be given as and when relevant. So, in the interest of limiting the length of this summary article, I will limit myself to briefly stating that the interest in ‘Nordic Beer’ in Norway is already now quite significant – to a large extent supported by the rather strong culture of traditional farm brewing in Norway that seems to have survived the lager revolution and industrialization of brewing during the past couple of centuries in much better shape than in Sweden and particularly Denmark. Further, the Norwegian government has launched and economically supports a large-

scale project called ‘Norsk malt, humle og urter - smaken av norsk øl’ (‘Norwegian malt, hops and herbs – the flavour of Norwegian Beer’) involving a significant number of both Norwegian breweries as well as knowledge and research institutions. So there is very encouraging news from Norway, whereas Mikke from Dugges in Sweden informed us that the ‘Nordic Beer’ movement in Sweden has not yet caught on like it has in Norway and Denmark. Most of the focus of Swedish craft brewers is still on very hoppy beers with a clear inspiration from the USA. Mikke was, however, still very optimistic and expected that ‘Nordic Beer’ in Sweden would soon take off and receive attention and popularity amongst brewers, media and consumers in much the same way as we see it in the rest of Scandinavia.

S TAT U S O F T H E ‘ N O R D I C B E E R ’ M OV E M E N T S I N N O R WAY B Y J Ø R N G U N N A R S O N A N D E R S E N ( K L O S T E R G Å R D E N , TA U T R A ) A N D M E T T E G O U L T H O M S E N ( B I O F O R S K ) , S W E D E N B Y M I C H A E L D U G G E E N G S T R Ø M ( D U G G E S A L E - & P O RT E R B RY G G E R I , G O T H E N B U R G ) A N D D E N M A R K B Y A N D E R S K I S S M E Y E R

Martyn was invited by us to be the keynote speaker at the conference, as he has abundant, international experience with the beer scenes and cultures all around the globe. And Martyn started by thanking us for the invitation – not just as a standard

courtesy, but also because the request for a presentation on this topic had pushed him to do some research into areas and corners of the beer world that he had not previously explored, and this had been very enriching for himself. And the result was certainly

both very rewarding and inspiring for us in Korsør as well. We at the SBR expect to bring you Martyn’s presentation in an article format in one of the coming issues of the SBR.

B E E R A N D T E R R O I R I N A N I N T E R N AT I O N A L P E R S P E C T I V E , M A R T Y N C O R N E L L , U K J O U R N A L I S T, B E E R W R I T E R A N D B L O G G E R ( Z Y T H O P H I L E . W O R D P R E S S . C O M )



INTRODUCTION TO THE FOUR WORKSHOPSThe remainder of this conference was left to the active participation of all attendees in four workshops, each focusing on a specific topic representing a challenge and/or a development area for the future Nordic Beer work. In his introduction of the workshops taking place on Saturday morning, Anders Kissmeyer outlined how the practicalities of the workshops would play out and said that no rigid framework for the agendas and for the work in the workshops had been laid down by the organizers. Thus, what went on in the workshops was entirely up to the presenters and to the participants. Also, Anders underlined yet again that the organizers strongly encouraged that the workshops focus on formulating and organizing specific and concrete projects and put less emphasis on the tempting option of just discussing the topics from a theoretical perspective.

The topics for the four workshops were chosen by the main network (to which the GUDP funds were granted) at its first meeting in July, and as a ‘kick off ’ to the work in the workshops, the organizers invited a group of ‘experts’ within the topics to introduce these to the conference participants. Each topic had more than one presenter/introducer, as we tried to cover the extremes of the range of ‘positions’ within the fields. That was exemplified by the malt topic, in which one end of the spectrum was represented by Kim G. Jørgensen, who is the CEO of the largest Danish industrial malting company, while the other end was represented by Anders Borgen, who works for Agrologica, a company that works with old and

abandoned cultivars of the different cereals and makes these available for testing in baking and other present day uses. The ‘introducers’ were given about 10 minutes to present their views on the topic in a freely chosen format.

At the end of these introductions, the participants chose which workshop they wanted to participate in the next morning.

1. INTRODUCTIONS TO THE WORKSHOP ON THE TOPIC ‘MALT’

The ‘introducers’ were Kim G. Jørgensen, Danish Malting Group, and Anders Borgen, Agrologica. The short headlines for this workshop formulated by the organizers in the invitation to the conference were as follows: ‘How may we further the utilization of the potential of local malts in terms of their flavour and taste contributions to beer? In the interest of the ‘Nordic Beer’ project, we would like to encourage the gathering of knowledge about cultivars other than the modern cultivars grown today in the search for indigenous, different and positive taste and flavour attributes. Can we increase our insight into the diversity of various cereals - both the well-known and the more ‘exotic’ – that may grow in the region? What are the possibilities for selecting and growing cultivars that are adapted or chosen so as to suit the requirements or wishes of individual breweries?’

2. INTRODUCTIONS TO THE WORKSHOP ON THE TOPIC ‘YEAST’

The ‘introducers’ were Sigrid Gertsen-Schibbye, Lallemand/Danske Gærfabrikker (Danish Yeast Factories), Troels



Prahl, Ferm/White Labs, and Claus Christensen, Munkebo Mikrobryggeri. The short headlines for this workshop formulated by the organizers in the invitation to the conference were as follows: ‘How can we further a development that will give us a broad supply of commercially available, genuinely Nordic yeast strains with both acceptable process characteristics and unique flavour and taste contributions to the beer? And what is the potential in spontaneous fermentations, or fermentations created by other methods of inoculation than traditional yeast pitching, in creating novel Nordic Beer styles?’

3. INTRODUCTIONS TO THE WORKSHOP ON THE TOPIC ‘NORDIC FLAVOURING INGREDIENTS’

Mads Deichmann Jensen, Ikast Mikrobryggeri, Niels Stærup, Kryddersnapse.dk (flavoured aquavits), and Antoni Aagaard Madsen, Thisted Bryghus, were the ‘introducers’ for this topic, and the short headlines for this workshop were as follows: ‘How can we gather and structure our knowledge about wild and cultivated plants that have potential as Nordic flavouring ingredients in brewing? What are their effects and properties in brewing, where can they be found, when and how should they be harvested, which parts of the plants are suitable, how should they be processed or prepared for their use in brewing, and – not least – how, when and how much of the plants can be added during the brewing process?’

4. INTRODUCTIONS TO THE WORKSHOP ON THE TOPIC ‘BEER WITHOUT HOPS’

This topic was introduced by Peter Schrøder, Viborg Bryghus, and Tore Jørgensen, Herslev Bryghus, and the short headlines for this workshop were as follows: ‘How can other plants or additions replace the hops in beer, contributing bitterness – or balance of taste and flavour by other means – positive flavour and taste qualities, and, finally, the microbiological stability achieved by hopping? What does the practical experience thus far tell us? Does the replacement of the hops with other ingredients challenge the existing perception amongst consumers of what beer is?’

It is beyond the scope of this summary article to detail the results of the workshops and the ensuing discussions in plenum of their presentations of these results, but we will surely be able to cover these results and discussions – either as they were presented at the conference or after the ideas have been followed up by actual projects, research or brewing – in future articles in the SBR.

After an intense afternoon on the Friday going through the agenda outlined above, it became time to unwind and continue the networking and explorations into the world of ‘Nordic Beer’ in a more practical, relaxed and tantalizing manner. This was achieved by the participants having a very nice dinner followed by informal socializing in the company of gracious amounts of about 25 different beers, more or less inspired by the ‘Nordic Beer’ approach. The organizers had asked all brewers participating in the conference to bring along some of their own beers that they thought would be of interest and on which they would appreciate feedback from their peers and other people engaged in the ‘Nordic Beer’ movement. I’m extremely tempted to start listing these beers and describing their aromas, flavours and taste qualities, but this would obviously be much too lengthy for this article. Suffice it to say here that, in case any conference participant was not already overly excited by the day’s professional program, they definitely must have been by tasting their way through this multitude of very different, fascinating and novel flavour revelations! The fact that we, already at this stage of infancy in our overall project, can muster such a beer extravaganza is, beyond anything, deeply encouraging!

After the workshops had both spent the time available on their discussions and subsequently presented and discussed their findings and ideas in plenum around midday on Saturday, the conference was ended with a short evaluation session. And I’m extremely happy to report that the satisfaction felt by us, the organizers of the conference, in terms of achieving much of what we had hoped for beforehand was apparently, to a very large degree, shared by the participants. At least, the feedback received about the format, the contents and the overall experience of the conference by the participants was overwhelmingly positive.

The second ‘Nordic Beer’ conference – and the last as a part of the GUDP network project – will probably take place in the spring of 2016 as a sort of presentation of the outcome of this project. It is obviously up to the GUDP-supported network to decide on the details of this conference, but it may be expected that it will be a lot more focused on inviting in and communicating to the outside world, as compared to this one, which was rather ‘geeky’ and focused on engaging the members of the value chain to work together to achieve as many of the objectives of the ‘Nordic Beer’ movement as possible.

Anders Kissmeyer



ART ICLE

When it comes to beer, there’s a lot of talk about bubbles – and we don’t mean carbonation. By the latest stats, the number of breweries in the United States has nearly doubled from 1,625 in 2010 to 3,040 today. Not everyone’s excited; at the last Craft Brewers Conference, Brewer’s Association director Paul Gatza shared woeful tales of tasting bad new beers, followed by a stern warning to fledgling breweries: “Don’t f— it up.” These 25 breweries are not yet five years old, but they definitely aren’t f—ing it up; in fact, they’re making craft beer better than they found it. Innovative, creative and passionate, they more importantly set the standard for quality. Some are industry vets who know how to do things right; others are newbies who figured it out in short order. All of them should be on your radar.

ASHEVILLE, N.C. | Wicked Weed BrewingStill one of Asheville’s best-kept secrets, brothers Luke and Walt Dickinson launched this downtown brewery in latez 2012 with a focus on bold, hoppy beers and rustic farmhouse ales. Now that bottles are trickling out, they’re poised to become one of the most talked-about breweries on the East Coast. Why? The

Which beers out there are the best? A question that we as brewers often ask ourselves, and most certainly a question that we very often get from other people. Maybe years back we felt equipped to answer the question, and maybe some of us still do. But for the rest of us, the extreme and exciting pace with which new breweries – and not least new beers – appear on the scene makes this question remain noisily unanswered. ‘Ratebeer.com’ tells us what the beer geeks say about this, but we all know that there are other opinions. So, here’s an update as seen through the eyes of the US ‘Draft Magazine’. The list is interesting as not just a list of 25 less than 5-year old breweries they think we should all know, but the short introductions of each brewery given – by themselves and particularly when accumulated – form a very saying and fascinating look into what these breweries are doing. This will enable the thoughtful reader to see the trends in American craft brewing – still, and possibly more than ever – the place to look for cutting edge innovation and creativity. We have divided the list into three, bringing you the first part now and the last two in the first two issues of the SBR in 2015.

25 BREWERIES YOU SHOULD KNOW PART 1

F R O M ‘ D R A F T M A G A Z I N E ’ , S E P T E M B E R / O C T O B E R 2 0 1 4 V I A ‘ W E E K LY P I N T. C O M ’

100-point Serenity, for starters: The 100-percent Brettanomyces beer demonstrates Wicked Weed’s prowess as one of the most skilled Brett handlers around. A second production facility is in the works, and this fall, the brewery went all-in with the opening of The Funkatorium, a separate barrelhouse and bar dedicated to wild beers, with the likes of Black Angel cherry sour and Oblivion sour red constantly rotating on 12 taps and an upcoming vintage bottle menu.

SAN DIEGO | Societe BrewingFounders Travis Smith and Douglas Constantiner both started their brewing careers with cheap kits, the kind that produce more passion than good pints. But no matter. The sparks from those early awkward batches fanned into bonfires, with both future colleagues landing junior-level stints at the likes of Russian River, Green Flash and – where they’d eventually meet – The Bruery.

Intoxicated by the voodoo of deeply flavorful brews like Rogue’s Chocolate Stout, Constantiner started thinking seriously about bailing on his lucrative banking career in New York while taking Siebel Institute classes online, while Smith was soaking

25 BREWERIES YOU SHOULD KNOW – PART 1


up experience from the likes of Moonlight’s Brian Hunt and Russian River’s Vinnie Cilurzo. In 2009, Constantiner moved to North County, San Diego, and landed Th e Bruery gig. Soon Smith and Constantiner formed a friendship over pints, and hatched plans for a place of their own.

Th eir joint move to hop-happy San Diego seemed a late entry into a super-crowded, IPA-saturated marketplace, but Societe’s brainy, lighthearted approach – and great beers – resonated with locals, with word traveling fast around the American West. Societe’s ultra full-fl avored beers are organized in four categories: Out West (read: IPA, IIPA), Old World (Belgian pales; saison; golden strongs), Stygian (stouts referencing the underworld’s River Styx), and Feral (sour and wild brews). Focused and trend-forward, the formula is not only working, it’s fl ying. Societe (now up to 18 full-time employees) is about to double again for the second consecutive year, adding new fermenters and a small bottling line, mainly for sours.

“Oh my God, it’s incredible. We’re just trying to keep up with local demand,” Constantiner says. “Th at’s why we started down here; nobody’s new to beer. Karl Strauss, Stone and Ballast Point paved the way for us. Now we can’t keep anything on tap.” Not bad for a guy that started with a $50 Mr. Beer kit.

ANCHORAGE, ALASKA | Anchorage BrewingTh e day we caught up with Anchorage owner Gabe Fletcher, he was about to pick up Evil Twin Brewing impresario Jeppe Jarnit-Bjergsø at the airport; the next day, the two brewers were going to fi sh, then brew a beer and ferment it in the woods. Fletcher admits that at Anchorage, he “does everything the hard way.” Aft er 12-plus years at Midnight Sun, he started Anchorage with only specialty beers in mind: Every one takes at least three months (and as much as a year) to complete; is released only

once in the year; focuses heavily on barrel-aging and Brett; and usually doesn’t touch stainless steel until it’s in the bottling tank. Th e results are stars like Bitter Monk, a dry-hopped Belgian IPA aged in chard barrels with Brett. Up next: new brews from his coolship as early as summer 2015.

ARDMORE, PA. | Tired Hands BrewingHe earned his chops at iconic East Coasters Weyerbacher and Iron Hill, but in 2011, Jean Broillet IV struck out on his own, bringing some of the country’s most creative brews to the Mid-Atlantic. Situated in a cute stretch of canopied brick storefronts, the brewery and tasting room is where Broillet has already churned out 300 unique recipes, but HopHands (an ultrajuicy pale ale) and the rye/oat/wheat/barley SaisonHands are the anchors. Here-and-gone brews like Bob, a fennel-and-cherry brewed pale ale, have so captured beer geeks’ imaginations, RateBeer.com named Tired Hands a Best New Brewer in 2013. Th e brewery’s building out a new facility just a block down the road, which will up its output tenfold.

Anchorage’s Gabe Fletcher / Andre C. Horton.

CHELSEA, MASS. | Mystic BreweryHelmed by fermentation scientist Bryan Greenhagen, Mystic takes a beaker approach to fl avor. Inside the brewery’s Fermentorium, he takes wort the brewery makes at nearby Mercury Brewing and ferments it with yeast from a variety of sources (Maine blueberries and Vermont grapes among them) to inoculate a range of Belgian- and English-inspired beers. Sourcing as many local ingredients as possible and fermenting with indigenous yeasts, it’s one of the few breweries attempting a true native ale born from the North American countryside. Th is summer, the brewery opened its artisanal beer café, bringing saisons, tavern ales and charcuterie to the Boston ’burbs.

Photo © Tyler Fitzpatrick, Mystic Brewery.

25 BREWERIES YOU SHOULD KNOW – PART 1


ST. LOUIS | Perennial Artisan AlesPhil Wymore had an impressive career as Goose Island’s cellar master and head brewer at Half Acre, so in 2011, when he tapped Cory King, a homebrewer with no professional experience, to become the brewer at his new brewery, Perennial Artisan Ales, even King was surprised. “I got very lucky; but at the same time, I was really stalking him,” King laughs.

King and Wymore have their fingers on the pulse of where craft is now. Perennial’s flagships lean Belgian, with a saison, a Belgian pale ale and a Belgian ale with Brett, but foodie seasonals – including a squash-infused brown ale, a walnut dunkelweisse, and a stout with cacao nibs, ancho chiles, cinnamon sticks and coffee beans –are introducing wholly new flavors into beer. That stout, by the way, is called Abraxas, and it put Perennial on the map, taking silver in the experimental category at Chicago’s Festival of Barrel-Aged Beers in 2012, then gold this year in the same category; it also happens to be one of King’s homebrew recipes that he brought to the brewery. As an industry vet, Wymore had an inkling about how the story of a talented brewer with an MBA might unfold.

aging, barrel-aging and barrel fermentation.” It took King a year to put out his first beer, and only 70 barrels are currently in production. He has more than 100 barrels stashed in a space he rents at Perennial, housing wild ales and saisons that are bottled in tiny, coveted batches and earn high marks – even perfect scores – with reviewers and drinkers alike.

“

“

PHIL CAME TO ME AND SAID, ‘YOU’RE

GOING TO LEAVE ME ONE DAY, AREN’T

YOU?’” SAYS KING. WYMORE STARTED TO

SHOW KING THE ROPES OF RUNNING HIS

OWN BREWERY, BUT SIX MONTHS LATER

APPROACHED HIM WITH A PROPOSITION:

“HE SAID, ‘WHY DON’T YOU START YOUR

BREWERY HERE?’

“Phil came to me and said, ‘You’re going to leave me one day, aren’t you?’” says King. Wymore started to show King the ropes of running his own brewery, but six months later approached him with a proposition: “He said, ‘Why don’t you start your brewery here?’”

… & Side Project BrewingSide Project is something like King’s gypsy brewery, except that he brews after-hours exclusively at his own 9-to-5 workplace. “At Side Project, everything touches oak; my passion is oak-


ART ICLE

COMPOSITION AND DESIRABLE PROPERTIES AND OUTCOMES OF EXTRACT AND WORT FOLLOWING MASHING A SUMMARY• 75-80%ofthegristweightisdissolvedorextractedduring

mashing and the wort composition is very dependent on the mashing procedure.

• Sugars–constitute61-65%totalextractintypical10-12°Platoworts establishing the normal attenuation limit (real degree attenuation) at ca. 65%, and un-fermentable dextrins, proteins, gums and inorganic mineral substances make up the rest of the total extract.

• Th eproportionsofsugarsanddextrinsaffectthecourseof fermentation and the quality of the beer. Carbohydrates produced include glucose, fermented fi rst, maltose, the main fermentable sugar, maltotriose and dextrins which are not fermented. Maltotriose can be fermented by top fermentation strains but not until all the maltose has been utilized.

• Mashing-inat62-63°C(144-145°F)canyieldthehighestpossible maltose content and highest attenuation – maltose-rich worts ferment more quickly and hold yeast longer in suspension.

• Th etemperatureprogramchosenbythebreweriscriticalfor determining the quality of the resultant wort and the process effi ciency of this stage of the production. Getting the pH of the mash to pH 5.5-5.6 or so gives a better attenuation (during fermentation), a more extensive breakdown of protein, a reduction in viscosity, a better runoff (lautering) and a protective eff ect against a big increase in color during wort boiling.

With these few notes in mind we can now look briefl y at mashing regimes and mash systems.

MASH PROCESS, VESSELS AND SYSTEMSAft er learning about the key reactions that take place in mashing, especially those catalyzed by enzymes and temperature regimes to maximize wort yields, the choice of a suitable mashing program is essential for the production of quality beer and for the development of new beer types. Utilizing the principles of mash chemistry dictates the conditions both for the design and operation of mash systems. Several types of mash vessels are

In the series of articles on the Basic Quality Management of the brewing process by Gary Spedding et al., we have now reached the third and fi nal part, focusing on the mash systems and vessels. Parts 1 and 2 – ‘Th e Purpose of Mashing’ and ‘Enzymes and Activities of Mashing: Producing the Wort Constituents’ – were published in SBR No. 1 and No. 2, 2014, respectively.

BASIC QUALITY MANAGEMENT – MASHING MASH SYSTEMS AND VESSELS: A BRIEF REVIEW – PART 3

B Y D R . G A R Y S P E D D I N G , A M B E R W E Y G A N D T, B S C . , A N D M AT T H E W L I N S K E , B S C . 1 , E - M A I L : G S P E D D I N G @ A L C B E V T E S T I N G . C O M1 B R E W I N G A N D D I S T I L L I N G A N A LY T I C A L S E R V I C E S L L C ( B D A S , L L C )

BASIC QUAL ITY MANAGEMENT – MASHING , PART 3


available, and these are fully described from a historical and an engineering perspective elsewhere*.

The mash tun is the simplest device for mashing and wort preparation. In this situation, mash conversion and wort separation take place respectively in and from one vessel and are distinguished from the mash mixing and incubation vessels which are used only for mash conversion, with wort collection being carried out in a separate lauter tun or mash filter (considered in the next article on lautering). With the exception of pointing out the dangers to final beer quality involved in mash pumping (oxygen intake etc.), this article concerns only mash conversion in a single vessel. Extensive details dealing with mash tun construction and engineering are covered elsewhere*.

MASH VESSEL DESIGN AND CONSIDERATIONS.Over the last two decades, there has been recognition, by brewers and brewing equipment suppliers, of several key features needed for a modern successful mash conversion vessel*. The vessel is required to handle mash gently so as not to degrade particle size, and to avoid oxygen pick-up. It is also now known that the β-glucan can be released from cell wall material by shear forces

into a gel-like substance with negative effects on filtration. In conflict with this is the requirement for intensive mixing and blending, and the ability to raise the temperature rapidly and homogeneously while avoiding burning onto heating surfaces. Thus, the interaction of heating jackets and agitators is critical to good performance. Table 3 points out some considerations for mash tun operations, engineering, construction and processing and describes key features of modern infusion mashing in a mash vessel. The table is derived from information in many of the references*

SUMMARYMilling and mashing are regarded as very important processes towards producing a high quality beer. Mashing – an extension of the milling process – is, in and of itself, an incredibly complex topic and a brief outline only has been presented here. The main details of mashing are, of course, covered in many books, treatises and original research papers – some of which are outlined in the selected references section and all of which have been drawn upon to generate a more concise picture of the overall process. If mashing is not performed correctly, the consequences include slower lautering, poor wort clarification, haze intensification in

TABLE 3. MASH VESSEL DESIGN

General Design Features and Basic Operation

Mash delivery and mixing:Minimizing shear forces during this transfer is very important to the performance of the mash separation stage, as the combination of oxygen pick-up, beta glucan release, and particle size reduction reduces filtration rates*.

A diagram showing a typical mash tun schematic appears with the abstract, under the title header.

A typical mash conversion vessel is constructed of stainless steel and is cylindrical with a conical or dished bottom and with a large diameter agitator. This is bottom mounted and designed to run at slow speed, typically 10-40 rpm, and to mix effectively without the need for side-wall baffles which would be a source of unacceptable shear forces*.

•Mashtunsoftenhavefalsebottomswithperforatedplates.Thevoidbetweenthefalseandtruebottomaccounts for about 10–15% of the total capacity of the vessel. The false bottom incorporates a valve (or multiple valves) which, when open, allows automatic discharge of the spent grains when wort separation has been completed.

•Wettedmashissometimesaddedtothemashtun,whichhasbeenpreheatedtoapre-determinedtemperature, via the top, usually using a mash mixer. [Pre-mashing systems may therefore be called for *] Before the mash is added, the false bottom is usually filled with hot liquor both to exclude air and to ensure that, when the mash is delivered, the tendency to compact is reduced. The presence of air in the mash causes most of the grist to float.

•Forsystemswherebymashispumpedintothevesselbottomduringmash-in,themashinletnozzleiscovered early reducing air uptake. This helps reduce later beer staling and leads to brighter wort color.

•Goodmixingduringfinalmashpumpingforhomogeneousentryintolautertun.Ideally,nomashsegregation (no clumping) involved. Good formation of filter layers leads to improved final mash pumping. Variable low-shear feed pump for final mash pumping to lauter tun with smooth pipe - avoids shear forces. Reduced oxygen uptake in lauter tun due to initially slow pumping, reduced fines formation and gel formation*.

•Traditionalmashtunswerefittedwithmovablerakes,whichensuredthatthegristformedanevenbed. Rotation speeds in any mash bed being appropriate for vessel diameter and speed kept low to prevent shear forces on mash particulates affecting mash composition. These are considered not necessary in more modern mash tuns*.



CONTINUED

Mash Heating and Temperature Control Designed for efficient heat transfer – today, often semi-circular pipes welded to the bottom and sides of the mash tun. Often steel – the correct type of steel and alloy coatings should be used. Steam pipes engineered to prevent vacuum formation and pipe collapse*.

Once filled with mash to the desired depth, the process of mash conversion is allowed to proceed. Although these vessels are associated with simple infusion mashing, various methods are used (and have been for many years) to increase the temperature of the mash. These include:

•Directsteaminjectionintothemashorintothefalsebaseorcirculationofwortviaanexternalheat exchanger. Low heating - medium steam pressures prevent baking or burning of mash and/or formation of beer scale deposition on heating surfaces. This prevents flavor impairment – clean beers and no damage to mash.

•Morecommonly,attemperationofthemashisaccomplishedviaaprocessknownasunderletting.Hotliquor is introduced into the base of the vessel underneath the false bottom and the mash is gently mixed and diluted and the temperature of the whole mash bed is adjusted accordingly.

•Mashtunsgenerallyusethickmashesandcomparativelydeepbedsand,inconsequence,arecapableof producing very bright worts. However the deep bed in these situations necessitates the use of coarse ground grists and turn-around times are long. Control of temperature is more difficult with thick/deep bed mashes and, in consequence, extract recoveries can be modest, typically 85–95%, compared to laboratory mashes.

•Smoothpolishedheatingsurfaces–improveheattransfer-mashbakingonheatedsurfacesreducedor prevented.

Oxygen issues and Oxidation during mashing*

Oxygen has important roles to play in brewing but also must be avoided in higher amounts during most operations.

•Airintakeleadstodarkerwortsandbeercolor,alessrefinedbeerflavorandadecreaseinbeerflavorstability. Copper vessels are avoided as copper speeds up oxidation processes. Care is entertained with introducing mash from above and “splashing”, to avoid high stirrer speeds and to avoiding vortexing during pump transfer. Pumping mash in from the side or below to avoid turbulence is a modern way of reducing oxygen uptake during mash transfer (see above). Filling the base of the vessel with an inert gas to displace air and so limit oxygen pick-up may also be used. Underletting (filling the bottom of the mash-tun or vessel with some deaerated water) is also now used to prevent oxygen uptake and damage as grist enters the vessel. Some oxygen is, however, important to the mash reactions. Low oxygen entrainment leads to improved degradation of β-glucan and therefore better starch breakdown, higher attenuations, faster lautering, paler wort color, less oxidation of polyphenols and a better flavor stability.

•Modernbrewerysystemdesignsalsoensurethatalldustiscontained,andoxygenpick-upisminimized - sources of oxygen at mashing are from grist and from mashing water. To reduce input of oxygen from these raw materials requires brewing liquor to be de-aerated and grist cases to be purged with inert gas (nitrogen or carbon dioxide); hardly any brewing companies go to this extreme*. Due to interest over the last few years in the impact of oxygen in the brew-house, some breweries introduce a small mash mixing vessel, from where the mash can be gently pumped into the conversion vessel from the bottom to minimize oxidative effects (see above).

Mashing – Controls and Records [An important final note on quality control]

Quality Assurance and Quality Control.

•Operatorsshouldrecordalldetailsofeachmash–amountofgrist,amountofcastwort,timesofrests, temperatures and other details as relevant. For multiple brews per day control may be handled by computers but quality of beer production relies on detailed records, standardized procedures and operator attention to detail.

E D I T O R ’ S C O M M E N T

The authors of this article have a complete list of references for the background statements and results referred to in the article (these are marked by an asterisk *). The list of references can be obtained by contacting the authors at [email protected]

fermentation, secondary fermentation ceasing early, and potential for off-flavors and odors in beers. Many topics from engineering to an appreciation of raw materials quality and enzyme chemistry are essential to a complete understanding of mashing and the myriad of controls needed to ensure a quality beer. The summary accounts of the subtopics presented here will, we hope, make entry to the more extensive coverage easier to digest (pun intended).



Gary Spedding, Ph.D., Amber Weygandt, BSc., and Matthew Linske, BSc., represent a highly dedicated team, testing alcoholic beverages primarily, though not exclusively, for the US brewing and distilling industries. The three combined offer biochemistry, biology, microbiology and chemistry expertise along with backgrounds in beverage testing – beer, wine and distilled spirits, water testing, microbiology and sensory evaluation.

Spedding (Biochemistry – University of Leicester, UK), after directing the Siebel Institute of Technology Laboratories in Chicago, founded Brewing and Distilling Analytical Services LLC (BDAS, LLC) in 2003, where he applies analytical chemistry in testing beverages and beverage raw materials.

Linske, with a degree in bacteriology (University of Wisconsin-Madison) – and after learning the brewing process as an assistant brewer - joined BDAS, LLC in 2012 as lead microbiologist and yeast and microbe detective.

Weygandt , with a degree in biology and minor in chemistry (California State University Sacramento), joined BDAS, LLC in 2013 as lead chemist and GC Mass Spec guru, hunting down all manner of components in beverages. She also had prior experience in the water testing field and at a large winery laboratory in California.

The team supports brewers, distillers and winemakers in all manner of quality assurance and quality control. Contact: [email protected].

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ART ICLE

INTRODUCTIONThe 33rd annual GABF took place from 2-4 October 2014 at the Colorado Convention Center. It offered 49,000 attendees the opportunity to sample almost 3,000 beers from approximately 700 U.S. breweries.

For more than 30 years, the Great American Beer Festival (GABF) has been bringing great brewers, beers and beer lovers together. The event has grown and evolved as beer consumers’ thirst for quality and diversity continues to grow and is one of the largest ticketed beer festivals in the U.S. GABF captures the innovative zest of the brewing community in the format of a public tasting in which attendees are presented an opportunity to try a vast array of beers from producers all across the country. Coupled with a private competition and awards ceremony, the overall event showcases the U.S. as the most diverse brewing destination on the planet.

THE PUBLIC BEER FESTIVALPresented by the Brewers Association, the Great American Beer Festival (GABF) brings together beer beginners, enthusiasts and geeks to bond over their common love of beer. As the festival beer offerings continue to grow, this year’s GABF provided novice and seasoned beer lovers even more opportunities to learn about what they are imbibing, including support from the new “Beer Geeks program”. This new tier of beer educators – comprising 50 committed beer lovers from throughout the country – supports and mentors the myriad of volunteer servers about the 3,500 beers being poured from more than 700 breweries during the festival. The biggest request from volunteers in past years has been to have more information on the beers they are pouring and, simultaneously, the brewers continually request educated

volunteer pourers. The new program was created to help bridge this gap. While the brewers are at their booths talking to people, the geeks supplement by providing insight and information that attendees are thirsty to hear. Overall, this ensured that the 49,000 festivalgoers - all tickets sold within a few hours – could further enjoy their GABF tasting experience, with access to more details on what they’re sampling, and where it fits among the 90 beer style categories in the event’s beer competition.“This year’s GABF was better than ever, with 14 percent more breweries participating in the festival (over last year) and more beers to choose from. The festival hall was expansive; coming in with a game plan for navigating the hall in itself made for a fun fan experience. Our fantastic volunteer servers played an integral role in assisting the brewers bring the experience to life for attendees,” said Nancy Johnson, event director, Brewers Association. “The Beer Geek program is an opportunity to further educate the volunteers, and by extension, festivalgoers, who came to Denver to sample and learn about the wide variety of great beers being made across the country.”

THE PROFESSIONAL BEER COMPETITION234 Breweries Celebrate Medals at 2014 Great American Beer Festival®Great American Beer Festival Winners268 Professional Medals Awarded, 461 First-Time Participants Compete

The 2014 Great American Beer Festival (GABF) competition awarded 268 medals to some of the best commercial breweries in the United States, plus three GABF Pro-Am medals. Presented by the Brewers Association, GABF is the largest commercial beer competition in the world and a symbol of brewing excellence.

The GABF is possibly the biggest beer celebration on Earth. Not in terms of volumes of beer consumed, because in that context nothing matches the Munich Oktoberfest. But there are other ways of celebrating beer than drinking ‘masses’ until you drop. The GABF is, as is probably well known to the readers of the SBR by now, both a public beer festival and a national, American beer competition constantly rivaling the World Beer Cup for the title of the largest beer competition in the world. Again this year, of course, the GABF boasted records all over.

BEER LOVERS GATHERED FOR GREAT AMERICAN BEER FESTIVAL® IN COLORADO


BEER LOVERS GATHERED FOR GREAT AMERICAN BEER FEST IVAL ® IN COLORADO

• 710breweriesinthefestivalhall• Morethan3,500beersservedatthefestival• 49,000attendees• Morethan3,200volunteers• 1,309breweriesinthecompetitionfrom50statesplus

Washington, D.C.• 5,507beersjudged(notincluding89Pro-Am

competition entries), a 16 percent increase over 2013• 90stylecategoriesjudged,plusthePro-Am

competition• 222judgesfrom10countries• 52first-timeenteringbrewerieswonawards.• Fourbreweriestiedformostmedalswon,withthree

medals each (10 Barrel Brewing Co., Barley Brown’s Brew Pub, Devils Backbone Brewing Co.–Outpost and Left Hand Brewing Co.)

• Thetopfiveenteredcategorieswere: 1. American-Style India Pale Ale (279 entries) 2. Herb and Spice Beer (150 entries) 3. American-Style Pale Ale (145 entries) 4. American-Style Amber/Red Ale (140 entries) 5. Imperial India Pale Ale (135 entries) 3. American-Style Pale Ale (145 entries)

Gold, silver and bronze medals were also awarded in the GABF Pro-Am competition, which pairs amateur brewers with professional brewers, who scale up the award-winning homebrew recipes. The medal winners, including the winning professional brewers and American Homebrewers Association® (AHA) member homebrewers are as follows: Gold: Bonnie Prince Charlie’s Scottish 80 Shilling, Bear Republic Brewing Co., Brewmaster: Team Bear Republic/Richard Norgrove, and AHA Member Michael Kelly; Silver: Spencer Pale Ale, Kokopelli Beer Co., Brewmaster: Kokopelli Brew Crew, and AHA Member Daniel Christensen; Bronze: I Wanna Rauch!, Springfield Brewing Co., Brewmaster: Ashton Lewis & Bruce Johnson, and AHA member Keith Wallis.

G R E AT A M E R I C A N B E E R F E S T I VA L – O V E R A L L H I G H L I G H T S

In its 28th year, the 2014 competition surpassed all previous participation records. A full list of all the 2014 winners may be found at: www.greatamericanbeerfestival.com/the-competition/winners/.

To accommodate growth, this year’s GABF competition saw its biggest panel of judges ever, with 222 beer experts from 10 countries evaluating 5,507 commercial entries, plus 89 Pro-Am (collaborations between professional and home brewers) entries, with assistance from some 150 competition volunteers. Award-winning brewers received prestigious gold, silver and bronze medals in 90 beer categories covering 145 different beer styles (encompassing subcategories), establishing the best examples of each style in the U.S. Winners were chosen from 5,507 competition entries (16 percent more than in 2013) from 1,309 breweries, hailing from 50 states plus Washington, D.C.

Based on the competition results, the BA gives awards in the categories “Brewery and Brewer of the Year Awards Very Small Brewing Company” and “Very Small Brewing Company Brewer of the Year” (winners were Draught Works and the Draught Works Brew Team); “Small Brewing Company” and “Small Brewing Company Brewer of the Year” (winners were Marble Brewery and Team Marble); “Mid-Size Brewing Company” and “Mid-Size Brewing Company Brewer of the Year” (winners were Devils Backbone Brewing Co.— Outpost and Devils Backbone Brewery Team); “Large Brewing Company” and “Large Brewing Company Brewer of the Year” (winners were AC Golden and the AC Golden Brewing Team); “Small Brewpub” and “Small Brewpub Brewer of the Year” (winners were Bastone Brewery and Rockne Van Meter); “Mid-Size Brewpub of the Year” and “Brewer” (winners were Brasserie Saint James and Josh & Matt Watterson) and finally “Large Brewpub” and “Brewer of the Year” (winners were Beachwood BBQ & Brewing and Julian Shrago & Ian McCall).

Sources: Brewer’s Association press releases and BRAUWELT International

Photo © Brewers Association

ART ICLE


Together with the common consumer lifestyle food trends, organic beers have also gained some market share over the last couple of years. This has been strongly led by the craft brewers, but also some bigger players have followed. In the early days, the availability of the desired raw materials has been an obstacle to organic brewing, forcing the maltsters to make a bigger effort to develop malts that live up to the brewers’ high quality expectations. Sanna Kivelä from Finnish/Swedish Viking Malt leads us into the issue, based on a study of Finnish malting barleys.

ORGANIC MALTS – DIFFERENT FROM CONVENTIONAL?

B Y S A N N A K I V E L Ä , E - M A I L : S A N N A . K I V E L Ä @ V I K I N G M A LT. C O M

WHAT IS ORGANIC?According to the European Commission definition, organic farming is an agricultural system that seeks to provide fresh, tasty and authentic food while respecting natural life-cycle systems. In plant production, this generally means wide crop rotation, strict limits on use of chemical synthetic pesticides and synthetic fertilizers, absolute prohibition of the use of GMO, taking advantage of on-site resources such as livestock manure for fertilizer and choosing plant species adapted to local conditions and resistant to diseases.

It is said that organic farmers respect the nature through a responsible use of energy and natural resources, maintenance of biodiversity and regional ecological balance, enhancement of soil fertility and maintenance of water quality. Processors of organic foods have the same goals with the following principles: strict restriction of which additives and processing aids are used, strict restriction of chemically synthesized inputs and prohibition on the use of GMOs. Governmental control of certified organic production through the entire chain is strict, and documentations and licenses are required to act in the organic food chain.

For cultivation of malting barley, organic farming systems mean reaching the good barley yield together with malting quality, low protein, good germination, kernel size and high hygienic quality without the help of synthetic fertilizers or pesticides. As a fertilizer, green manure grass, livestock manure and processed animal waste is used. Weeds are treated mechanically and kept under control with wide crop rotation, which is also taking care of a good growth ability of the soil together with good water management and natural liming materials. Plant diseases are

controlled with crop rotation, good care of plant waste and choice of well-adapted and resistant varieties.

FARMING ORGANIC BARLEYIn Finland, maltsters together with other stakeholders have, with success, been active in recent years in encouraging farmers to start growing organic malting barley. The start was challenging: generally it was said that barley is the most difficult plant to grow in organic farming. Barley’s rhythm of growth is fast, and nitrogen has to be available in the start of the growing period, which is a challenge with organic, typically slow-releasing fertilizers. It was also said that barley’s competitiveness against weeds is not that good because it’s not shading. So the challenge was there to be taken.

According to these challenges with a troublesome reputation among farmers, there was only limited field data available to be studied when selecting the best malting barley varieties to grow organically. In the organic agricultural system, biotic and abiotic stresses have to be overcome by growing the appropriate, well-adapted varieties with good farming practice. Still, there is no room to compromise on the quality of the product. In the last couple years, several field trials for this purpose have been organized. Knowledge of organic farming of malting barley has increased with trials but, first of all, in practical farming. Knowledge has increased, and so have the production and the fame of malting barley as a choice of a crop to grow in organic farms.

In Finland, we grow malting barley in the northern-most growing areas in the world. With Nordic crop conditions and


ORGANIC MALTS – D IFFERENT FROM CONVENT IONAL?

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ORGANIC BARLEY CROPS IN FINLAND 2006-2009, 2011-2013 (TIKE)

hard winters, there is an advantage that we don’t have as much problem with plant pests as in warmer climates. First of all, this is an advantage in organic farming, in which use of synthetic pesticides is not allowed.

For northern conditions, the adaptation to different growing conditions, disease resistance, fast nutrient uptake ability and competitive ability are the goals to achieve in breeding malting barley varieties, and they are all in favour of the organic farming system as well. In Finland, Harbinger, a malting barley variety from the Finnish breeder Boreal Plant Breeding Ltd., has gained the most success in organic farming of malting barley. Farmers have been satisfied with the yield, and the quality has been satisfactory under rather different crop conditions.

BARLEY AND MALT QUALITYThe results of the malting barley pre-sample analysis show that there is not a big difference in malting barley quality between organic and conventional farming. Crop conditions during 2014 in Finland were very challenging for kernel size. The start for the crops was challenging because of the cold and wet weather in June. There was high pressure from plant diseases, and barley, with short roots, was suffering due to the excess of water. July was record warm with high heat, and the weakest crops were maturing too early. This can be seen in screenings both in conventional and organic barley samples. In organic farms, it’s even tougher to fight against the extreme crop conditions without a help of synthetic plant protection. Still, the results are comparable.

The expectation was that the biggest challenge in organic farming of malting barley would be reaching the optimum protein level. With organic fertilizers, the release of nitrogen is slow and

inaccurate compared to synthetic fertilizers, and it could cause too-high protein levels for malting use of barley. But the good growth condition of the soil, healthy crops and appropriate crop conditions guaranteeing good yield seem to keep the protein levels in the optimum in spite of the fertilizers used.

FA C T B O X

Pre-sample data of conventional and organic Harbinger crops 2014 and 2013 (in brackets): conventional organicGermination % 97.6 (96.3) 95.2 (97.5)Protein % 10.5 (10.5) 10.5 (10.2)Screening I+II % 88.9 (95.5) 83.5 (94.5)

Typical values of production malt batch analysis Harbinger crop 2013: conventional organicExtract % dm. 82.5 - 83.0 82.5 - 3.0 Protein % 10.5 - 11.0 10.8 - 11.0Kolbach index % 41 - 45 40 - 46Friability % 85 - 91 88 - 91

As it can be seen from the fact box with the quality data, quality-wise, it does not really matter if the malt is produced from organic or conventional barley. If the quality of the barley is high, that translates into a similar high quality as finished malt. So the choice of organic malt instead of conventional is not based on basic malt quality parameters.

SUMMARYWithin recent years, organic farming of malting barley has increased and is mostly effective and professional with sufficient growing area per farm unit, which is requiring farm size to be large enough for malting barley to fit in the crop rotation. Under these circumstances, farmers are able to produce suitable batch sizes with pure varieties, and the supply of organic malting barley has stabilized. This development in the supply side has made it possible for the maltster to produce high-quality malts of the uniform, high-quality organic malting barley.

Sanna joined Viking Malt in 2012 and, since then, she has been involved in all kinds of malting barley-related issues. One of her main topics has been the development of organic malting barley cultivation in Finland. By training, she is an agronomist (M.Sc).



ART ICLE

DUTCH LAGER STYLES 1870 - 1960 PART 2

HEINEKEN LAGERS IN THE 1880SFrom this next price list, we can see that Heineken also produced a higher-strength pale Lager in the 1890s, Export.

HEINEKEN RETAIL PRICES IN 1895Beer Per bottle (cents)Export 20Münchener 20Pilsener 18Gerste 12Tafelbier 9

My guess would be that the Export and Münchener were both close to 14º Plato, the Pilsener around 13º, Gerste 12º Plato and Tafelbier – which looks like what was later called Lagerbier - 10º Plato.

LAGER STYLES OF THE 1890SCartel forming amongst brewers is nothing new. Th ey were at it back in the 1890s. Luckily for me, because the draught agreement tells us a lot about what was being brewed in the 1890s.

R O N PAT T I N S O N , E - M A I L : K L J @ B R E W I N G S C H O O L . D K

Here, we continue with Part 2 of beer historian and writer Ron Pattinson’s article on historic Dutch Lager Styles in the context of other brewing traditions in mainly Central Europe from which the Dutch Lager tradition arose. Ron is a valued and loyal contributor of the ‘Beer Styles’ article series in the SBR, and his entertaining and very enlightening article has been split into three. Th is is Part 2; Part 1 was brought to you in SBR No. 2, 2014 and we will have Part 3 in the SBR No. 1, 2015.

It’s worth noting that these are maximum gravities. In practice, Pilsener would have been well below 15º Plato. Dortmunder, on the other hand, with its minimum price of 14 cents, was probably closer to that maximum. Lager Bier and Extra Lager Bier were presumably lower-strength pale or dark Lagers.

1900 - 1914Despite the success of these new concerns, Dutch beer production was stagnant at around 1.5 million hectolitres annually in the years leading up to WWI1.

A range of Lager styles were produced, in a variety of strengths and colours. At this point, Pils still did not have the dominant position it later acquired. Th at’s demonstrated by a quick look at Heineken’s brewing records. I won’t claim this is a defi nitive breakdown of the relative amounts of each type of beer brewed

Source: Rotterdamsch Nieuwsblad 22nd February 1895, page 4.

Source: ‘Korte Geschiedenis der Heineken's Bierbouwerij Maatschappij N.V. 1873 - 1948’" (p.421, 422)

Rotterdamsch Nieuwsblad, 22nd February 1895, page 4.

1893 PRICE-FIXING AGREEMENTBeer type Max. º Balling Minimum price

per litreHollandsch Bier 9º 7 centsNieuw Hollandsch Bier 9º 7 centsLager Bier 11º 9 centsExtra Lager Bier 11º 9 centsPilsener 15º 9 centsMünchener 15º 9 centsDortmunder 15º 14 centsBrown Stout 16º 16 centsExtra Stout 19º 20 cents

1‘A History of Brewing in Holland 900 - 1900’, by Richard W. Unger, 2001, page 372.


DUTCH LAGER STYLES 1870 - 1960 , PART 2

by Heineken. It’s just what’s on four random pages that I photographed. But it does give some idea of the proportions.

On every single page, around half of the brews were of Gerste. Second most popular, by a long way, was Lager, a lower-gravity Pale Lager that was the equivalent of Winterbier or Schenkbier.

HEINEKEN ROTTERDAM BEERS IN 1911Bier OG

BallingFG

BallingApp. degree attenuation

% ABV

Colour Kg hop/hl

Pils 13.2 4.15 68.56% 4.8 6 0.20Lager 9.8 3.3 66.33% 3.4 9 0.16Gerste 12 5 58.33% 3.7 13.5 0.18Beiersch 13.1 5.3 59.54% 4.2 13 0.18Bok 16.7 7.5 55.09% 5 14 0.20

Source: Heineken brewing record held at the Amsterdam Stadsarchief, document number 834-1752.

HEINEKEN ROTTERDAM PRODUCTION BY TYPE IN 1911Type No. of

brewsSize of

brew (HL)Total

amount% of total

Lager 226 270 61,020 36.13%Gerste 356 220 78,320 46.37%Beiersch 28 200 5,600 3.32%Pils 107 200 21,400 12.67%Bok 17 150 2,550 1.51%Total 734 168,890

Source: Heineken brewing record held at the Amsterdam Stadsarchief, document number 834-1752.

HEINEKEN’S WHOLESALE PRICES 1904 1911Th at wasn’t Heineken’s complete range of beers. It looks as if there were some beers which were only produced in Amsterdam: Gerste, Münchener and Export.

Rotterdamsch Nieuwsblad, 16th September 1911, page 4.

It’s clear that Pils was still very much a minority drink and that Beiersch was already a marginal product.

Th e share of Bok was undoubtedly lower as I’ve based these fi gures on the number of brews of each type at a certain point in the brewing year, in this case June. It ran up until the end of September, so while all the brews of Bok appear in the fi gures, only about 75% of those for the other styles do.

Th is is an overview of the beers Heineken Rotterdam brewed in 1911:

Th e poor degree of attenuation is typical of early Lagers. Even the Pils is less than 70% attenuated. You’ll see how this changed over the course of the 20th century.

HEINEKEN WHOLESALE PRICES 1904 - 1914Beer type Cents per litreGerstebier 8Lager 8Rotterdamsche Gerste 11Münchener 14Export 14Beiersch (donker) 13Pilsner (licht) 13Bock 15

Source: 1904-1914 - ‘Korte Geschiedenis der Heineken's Bierbouwerij Maatschappij N.V. 1873 - 1948’ (p.218)

My guess would be that the Gerste was a lower gravity version of the Gerste brewed in Rotterdam, that is, a dark, bottom-fermenting beer which wasn’t lagered. Export must be a type of Dortmunder, with a gravity of around 14º Plato. Münchener, I suppose, was a stronger version of Beiersch, again with a gravity of around 14º Plato.

COMPARATIVE PRICES IN 1911In this 1911 price list, you can see the relative prices of diff erent types of Lager:


DUTCH LAGER STYLES 1870 - 1960 , PART 2

Pilsener was, relative to its alcoholic strength, the worst value for money, as this table demonstrates:

Ron Pattinson joined CAMRA on his 18th birthday and has been obsessed with all things beer ever since, but particularly the history of British beer. Over the past 15 years he has performed extensive research and published the results on his website, in his blog “Shut up about Barclay Perkens” (!) (barclayperkins.blogspot.com/) and in a series of books. Ron lives in Amsterdam.


More than half of all Dutch breweries closed: from 522 in 1910 to 223 in 1920. The majority of those that closed were small affairs in Limburg and Nord-Brabant – 243 out of 299. Many had still been top-fermenting, which effectively gave a further boost to Lager brewing in Holland.

Amstel slashed their range to just two beers, Pilsener and a dark Lager4. They also started using rice, maize, tapioca and sugar in addition to malt5.

This is Part 2 of 3 of Ron’s article on the history of Dutch Lager. Part 1 was brought to you in SBR No. 2, 2014 and Part 3 will come in SBR No. 1, 2015.

“

“

PILSENER WAS, RELATIVE TO ITS ALCO-

HOLIC STRENGTH, THE WORST VALUE FOR

MONEY

PRICE RELATIVE TO ABVBeer ABV price per

bottlecents per 1% ABV

% cheaper than Pils

Gerste 3.7 11 2.97 26.14%Lager 3.4 9 2.65 41.67%Pils 4.8 18 3.75

Source: Advert in Rotterdamsch Nieuwsblad, 16th September 1911, page 4.

DUTCH BREWERIES BY PROVINCE1890 1900 1910 1920 1930

Noord-Brabant 241 214 191 72 65Gelderland 42 31 27 13 10Zuid-Holland 35 25 24 14 -Noord-Holland 22 19 17 12 10Zeeland 36 33 31 25 25Utrecht 12 7 7 4 3Overijssel 10 9 7 3 3Friesland 2 2 2 2 2Groningen 20 16 14 1 1Drenthe 1 1 1 0 0Limburg 236 216 201 77 66Total: 657 574 522 223 198

Sources: Nederlands Etiketten Logboek, 1998

Pils was 26% more expensive per unit of alcohol.

2 ‘Amstel, het Verhaal van ons Bier 1870 - Heden’ by Peter Zwaal, 2010, pages 59 and 66.3 Bier in Limburg, Sef Derkx, 1990.

4 ‘Amstel, het Verhaal van ons Bier 1870 - Heden’ by Peter Zwaal, 2010, page 59.5 ‘Amstel, het Verhaal van ons Bier 1870 - Heden’ by Peter Zwaal, 2010, page 66.

The author of this article has a complete list of references for all quotes and actual data given in this article. The list of references can be obtained by contacting Ron Pattinson ([email protected]).

E D I T O R ' S C O M M E N T

WWIThe war had a devastating effect on Dutch brewing, despite The Netherlands being neutral. The unrestricted German U-Boot campaign that began in 1917 caused havoc with international trade. Dependent on imported barley, Dutch brewers began to run out of raw materials. Despite drastic reductions in the strength of beer2, by 1918, production was down to just half of the pre-war level at 0.72 million hectolitres3.


ART ICLE

NEW NATURAL HERB & SPICE EXTRACTS AND NATURAL BLOSSOM FLAVOURS ON THE MARKET

Flavouring ingredients have always been the basis for positioning soft drink products as unique, but in later years these also have attracted increased interest from brewers who wish to expand the universe of beer beyond malt, yeast and hops. The examples are already abundant, and in our region the number of flavoured beers is bound to explode with the proliferation of the ‘Nordic Beer’ ideas. We are therefore happy to bring this short article from one of the leading suppliers of flavourings for beverages of all types, Doehler.

The large manufacturer of flavourings for the beverage industry, Doehler, is now meeting the rapidly increasing demand for botanical flavours in the food and beverage industry with a new portfolio of natural herb & spice extracts and natural blossom flavours. Although herbs and spices are found in every kitchen these days, they still offer plenty of scope for new and attractive taste creations. That is why herb and spice notes are becoming increasingly popular in every segment of the food and beverage industry – including some previously untouched ones – and they top the list of trendy flavours. There are no limits to the creative options! The wide variety of products ranges from Prosecco with a strawberry-basil taste to refreshing soft drinks with a fine rosemary note.

‘It is easy to explain the reason behind the success of these flavours. For instance, cardamom from the Himalayas, oregano from Italy or coriander from Morocco all transport consumers to far-away worlds of taste. This results in both interesting taste combinations and great product positionings,’ says Daniel Courtehoux, Head of Business Unit Flavours at Doehler. However, not every type of herb and spice is suitable for producing authentic, natural extracts and flavours – no matter how tasty they may be when fresh. For this reason, Doehler has identified the very best raw materials for its products. At its own facilities, the company thus obtains a wide range of premium quality extracts characterised by a particularly pure and intense taste. TheportfoliocontainsFTNS(FTNS=fromthenamedsource)flavours from oregano, rosemary, coriander, caraway, cardamom, marjoram, chilli, pepper, sage, thyme and basil.

The new Doehler botanical range also includes a selection of natural blossom flavours such as rose, violet, lavender, lotus blossom and hibiscus. In many cultures, flowers are a symbol of beauty, naturalness and health. In the past, it was predominantly

the cosmetics, fragrance and pharmaceuticals industries that knew how to use these properties for emotional product positionings. Blossoms have recently been rediscovered for culinary indulgence – and not only in haute cuisine. Food and beverages with a hint of rose, lavender or hibiscus are all real trendsetters today. 2013 saw around 70 new soft drinks with the taste of rose alone, introduced to the global market – an increase of over 100% compared to the previous year. Hibiscus and elderflower have enjoyed similar success. ‘Blossom flavours also unlock exciting product concepts – and not only in the wellness segment or in products targeted at women. As a provider of integrated solutions, Doehler has developed inspirational product concepts for the beverage and food industry. The company's product developments are always built around a multi-sensory product experience,’ explains Daniel Courtehoux.

ABOUT DOEHLER:Doehler (www.doehler.com) is a global producer, marketer and provider of technology-based natural ingredients, ingredient systems and integrated solutions for the food and beverage industry. The product portfolio ranges from flavours, colours, health & nutrition ingredients, cereal ingredients, dairy ingredients, speciality ingredients, fruit & vegetable ingredients to ingredient systems.

Headquartered in Darmstadt/Germany, Doehler has 23 production sites, 48 sales offices and application centres as well as sales activities in over 130 countries and more than 3,500 employees.

F U R T H E R I N F O R M AT I O N

Doehler GmbHRiedstraße 7-964295 Darmstadt / Germanywww.doehler.com

Diana Wolfstädter (PR)Phone +49 6151 306-1205Fax +49 6151 [email protected]


A GREAT SUCCESS

BRAUBEVIALE14BRAU

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LATEST GENERATION BMF-18 PRODUCT LINEIn recent years Pentair’s BMF technology has gained significant market share as an alternative to diatomaceous earth (DE). Since the introduction of Pentair’s BMF in 2002, all major brewing groups have installed BMF technology and there are more than 70 worldwide references. 70 million hectolitres of beer are filtered by BMF each year.

Pentair is continuously working on further improving its advanced BMF system, which resulted in a BMF-18 product line that sets new standards in efficiency, sustainability and smart design.

Pentair’s BMF-18 is now equipped with an increased number of proven Pentair components and technologies. Along with Südmo valves & components and Haffmans quality control equipment, a CPM Sterile Filter, type PSF, is now standard equipment in the BMF’s carbon dioxide (CO2) supply line. In addition, Pentair hygienic pumps have been integrated into the BMF-18. This enables Pentair to provide our customers a BMF solution that ensures even higher system security, along with advantages in Total Cost of Ownership.

Some 37,000 experts – as many as a good 4,000 more than in 2012 – visited BrauBeviale 2014, this year’s most important capital goods exhibition in the beverage industry.

• Morevisitors:some37,000experts,40percentinternational• Almost43,000m2 of space: larger than ever before• TrendthemeCultureofCraftBrewingjustwhatthesector

wants

With 42,781 m2 of display space, BrauBeviale 2014 was the biggest in the over 50-year history of the event. 1,133 exhibitors – both world market leaders and newcomers – presented all the ingredients for a successful beverage mix: high-grade raw materials, sophisticated technologies, efficient logistics and creative marketing ideas.

SBR visited BrauBeviale 2014, and in the following you can read about three exciting exhibitors that was present in Nuremberg and their new inventions.

W W W. P E N TA I R . C O M

Photo © Peter Brandi


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M I C R O M AT I C A N D K R O N E S

BEVMATE: SIMPLE, SAFE AND FRESHThe project is a cooperation between Micro Matic and Krones and is about a brilliant idea for a one-way keg made of PET. The keg is compressed once manufactured and can be piled in several layers – up to 100 kegs in one covering box on a pallet – and is then ready for transportation to the filler/brewery. Not until the keg is filled with beer, does it return to its original size, which is 20 litres. Then the filled kegs are transported to the end user, for instance cafés, restaurants, bars and other outlets that serve draught beer.

Krones delivers the keg (BEVkeg) and filling system while Micro Matic developed the BEVmate, a machine that squeezes out the beer during compression of the keg, so that you end up with an empty, compressed, pressureless keg. It takes up a minimum of space and can easily and simply be disposed of with the daily rubbish.

The one-way device used for the Flexi-Draft system is a perfect match to the one-way keg, so in addition to the equipment to squeeze the keg, Micro Matic incorporated a one-way beer line, resulting in a complete system, in which the beer is in contact only with parts intended for one-way use.

I K A D A N P L A S T A / S

PRODUCTS AMONG THE PIONEERS IN THE EFFORT AGAINST CO2 EMISSIONSAs never before, the reduction of CO2 emissions has the world’s attention. In this matter, Ikadan Plast A/S is at the forefront as they help their customers protect the environment.

At Brau Beviale, Ikadan Plast A/S presented their latest addition in their product development – the unique, eco-friendly disposable system for trays and pallets. Everything in the system is produced from 100% reusable plastic. It is included in existing systems after use and can be used again and again afterwards. Thus, the trays or pallets should not be cleaned or returned when empty. Other advantages with the system are that they are easy to choose at the shops’ stockroom, they are easy to bring into the shop, it is easy for customers to pick from the system and it is easy to handle in relation to waste separation.

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Photo © Peter Brandi


THE SCANDINAVIAN SCHOOL OF BREWING – COMING ACTIVITIESDiploma Master Brewer Courses 2015 Deadline Enrolment

2015Brewing 1 - -

Brewing 2 2 February - 10 April 3 January

Packaging (old M3) 16 February - 13 March 17 January

Professional UpdatesLeadership Course 26 - 29 January 19 December 2014

Soft Drinks Technology

25 - 27 February 23 January

Business Economy 19 - 20 March 20 February

Hops tour to Bayern 14 - 16 September 14 August

Beer Flavour Session 11 November 9 October

Executive in Beverage Industry Supply ChainsE1 9 - 13 March 6 February

E2 18 - 22 May 6 February

Diploma Craft Brewer D1 8 - 12 June 8 May

D2 31 August - 4

September 8 May

D3 12 - 13 November 8 May

Course for Commercial ManagersBrewing Foundation 8 - 12 June 8 May

More information on www.brewingschool.dk

Subscription:Scandinavian Brewers’ Review is the link between brewers and professionals in the brewing industry in the Scandinavian countries, the Baltic states and Russia.If you wish to subscribe, please contact:Benny Poulsen atTh e Danish Brewers’ GuildTel.: +45 3327 4556E-mail: [email protected]

Price:Per year, excluding VAT:Denmark: €40, Europe: €51, Rest of World: €61,50.

CALENDAR CALENDARCALENDAR-EVENTS, EXHIBITIONS, FAIRS

I S S N 1 6 0 3 - 4 6 3 5

IN THIS ISSUE: THE MASTER BREWER AND THE SBR, CANNING QUALITY PRODUCT ON A

SMALL-SCALE LINE, DRINKTEC 2013, REVIEW, CONSUMER PREFERENCES ASSOCIATED WITH

CONTEXT AND PERCEPTION OF COLLATIVE PROPERTIES, NORDIC EXPERIMENTAL BREWING,

THE HISTORY OF BRITISH LAGER, QUALITY MANAGEMENT – MILLING AND MUCH MORE…

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BRAU BEViALE 2014 THEME, BAsiC QUALiTY MAsHinG – PART TWO, 50 ACHiEVEMEnTs in BREWinG sCiEnCE

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in sWEDisH MiCROBREWERiEs, 50 ACHiEVEMEnTs in BREWinG sCiEnCE AnD TECHnOLOGY – PART TWO,

COnFEREnCE On nORDiC BEER, 25 BREWERiEs YOU sHOULD KnOW, BEER LOVERs GATHERED

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N E W D I R E C T O R

SSB welcomes Bernt Skov Jensen as its appointed Interim Director.Bernt replaces Axel G. Kristiansen, who has been appointed Deputy Director of B.Sc. engineering studies at the Danish Technical University (DTU).

Bernt is well-known at SSB, having served as a senior lecturer at SSB since the year 2000.

As for his background, Bernt has a M.Sc. in mechanical Engineering from DTU, a Diploma Master Brewer from SSB and an MBA from CBS. Bernt has extensive experience as a Brewing Consultant, as a Production Director and as the Technical Director for Coca-Cola Nordic Countries. We welcome Bernt, who gets a fl ying start; his fi rst SSB activity taking place will be teaching packaging technology in the Baltic countries with Axel in early December 2014.

Th e team at SSB expresses great gratitude to Axel for the fantastic cooperation. He will be missed both as a director and colleague. We look forward to continuing cooperation with Bernt Skov Jensen.

Upcoming events can be listed here. Free of charge. Please send facts and contact details to: [email protected]

P U B L I C AT I O N D AT E S

1/2015 12/02 2015

2/2015 21/05 2015

3/2015 10/09 2015

Prelude to BrauBeviale 4/2015 29/10 2015

Special Issue: Craft Brewing 5/2015 10/12 2015

Nordic by NatureAcross the globe, flavour trends are moving fiercely and fast. Food and beverage producers of all shapes and sizes are striving to keep up with picky international palates in order to gain that rare competitive edge.

At Einar Willumsen, our mission is to help our customers develop and market exciting and innovative new taste experiences for consumers. With insight from the Nordic food tradition and outsight to the world, we transform today’s international trends into tomorrow’s most popular local food products.

Learn more at ewflavours.com

visu

aliz

atio

n.dk

YOUR PASSION FOR BEER IS OURMOTIVATION!Beer Membrane FiltrationQuality Control Equipment CO2 SystemsMicrofiltrationProcess EngineeringProcess TechnologyProject ManagementValve TechnologyWater Treatment

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Scandinavian Brewers Review 20014, 3