Router Bit Basics - SharefoodForestmedia.sharefoodforest.org/literatur/technik/holz/RouterBitBasics... · Router Bit Basics TOOLS & TECHNIQUES ... also cut other joinery details

From Workbench Magazine page 1 © August Home Publishing Co.

Router Bit Basics

TOOLS & TECHNIQUES SERIES

Router Cabinet

Everything You Need to Know About Buying Router Bits

Step-by-step plans for building your own

Plus: Bonus Article

Store everything you need for routing in one place with this easy-to-buildstorage cabinet. It includes a sturdy platform for making bit changes and routeradjustments. A convenient cut-away shelf lets you store your router in anupright position without removing the bit! See page 5 for details.

Plans N O Ww w w . p l a n s n o w . c o m

®

Once you get hooked on routersand what you can do with them,

you’ll find no shortage of other toolsdesigned to put all of that potential togood use. Dovetail jigs, edge guides,router tables — all of these acces-sories can open up new woodworkingtechniques for you, but none can layclaim to being the essential routercompanion. That role belongs to thecutters.

Like saw blades and shaper cutters,router bits are typically made with toolsteel bodies and tungsten-carbide cut-ting tips, but their inherent design dif-ference (a support shank that’s per-pendicular to the cutting force) andhigher operating speeds (up to 25,000rpm) means they’re sometimes sub-jected to greater stresses. Still, virtu-ally all of the name-brand bits you’ll

find today are carefully engineeredfor safety and performance. And whilesome indicators of quality can be seenonly through a microscope (seeUnderstanding Carbide), a low-techvisual inspection can still reveal a lotabout a bit’s pedigree.

Details, as always, speak volumes.A smooth, highly polished surface onthe shank and on the carbide tipsreflects careful machining that willresult in a better collet fit and longer-lasting cutting edges. Carbidequantity should be gen-erous (about 3/32" to 1/8"thick) to allow multiplesharpenings — many “dis-count” bits skimp here. Also, thebraze (the alloy weld that bonds thecarbide tip to the tool body) shouldbe free of voids.

A colored Teflon or oxide coatingon the bit body is a nice bonus.Manufacturers rely on them for brandrecognition, but the key function is tostem the buildup of wood pitch.

Continued on next page...

See Page 5


Starter BitsRecognizing cues to a router bit’squality takes some practice, but it’smuch harder deciding which cutterprofiles to buy. Router bits are theLay’s potato chip of woodworkingtools — nobody can stop with justone. Get used to the idea of spendingmore money on bits than you will onmost any router.

If you’re just putting a shoptogether and haven’t figured outexactly what kind of woodworkingyou’ll be doing most, you can getplenty of versatility from a basicstarter set of a dozen or so cutters.

Straight bits specialize in cuttingdadoes and grooves, but they canalso cut other joinery details. I usethe 3/8", 1/2", and 3/4" sizes most often.If you work a lot in plywood, try theundersize bits ( 31/64" and 23/32" )designed for those reduced panelthicknesses. Straight bits with guidebearings above or below the cuttingflutes will trim an edge flush with atemplate or guide board — great forcurved work or for trimming plasticlaminate.

A rabbeting bit makes quick workof milling square ledges along theedges of boards, or around cabinet

door frames for a partial overlay fit.Sets with multiple bearing sizes areespecially useful, allowing you tochange the rabbet width quickly. Achamfer bit, also guided by a bearing,cuts a 45° bevel on a board’s edge.Roundover bits turn sharp squareedges into soft radiused contours,making them friendlier to the touch.Radius sizes range all the way from1/8" to 11/2", but 3/8" is a good starterbit because it can put a half-roundbullnose on 3/4"-thick lumber.

Another suggestion: bit shanks aretypically either 1/4" or 1/2" in diam-eter. For midsize or larger cutters,buy the 1/2"-shank versions.

Basic Bit CareWhatever individual cutters you buy,get carbide-tipped bits, and expectto spend about $150-$200 on a decentstarter set. Some vendors still offerhigh-speed steel cutters, but theiredge life is much shorter than car-bide. Engineered wood composites,such as plywood and particleboard,contain glue lines and binder resinsthat are tough on tool edges, andthey’ll dull a steel cutter before youcan say “burn my edges.” By the timeyou figure in the need for constantresharpening, the lower purchaseprice of a high-speed steel bit is nobargain.

One exception to this rule in myshop is a spiral-flute milling cutterthat I use for mortising. The onlyalternative to high-speed steel hereis a very expensive solid carbide bit,but this is a joinery cutter that I don’tuse on wood composites. The steeledges hold up well in most hard-woods, and resharpening costs lessthan it does for carbide.

With the relatively recent avail-ability of small diamond sharpeninghones, you can tune up some car-bide edges in your shop, but I stillsend mine out to be professionallyground and polished. If you decide tosharpen your bits yourself, dress onlythe flat face of each cutting flute,never the outside edge.

It’s equally important to keep bitsclean — the cutting flutes, the bitbody, and also any guide bearings.Accumulated wood pitch createsexcess heat that will dull cuttingedges and burn your workpiece.

Basic Set

Joinery Set

Flush-trim

3/8" RoundoverRabbeting

45° Chamfer

Reversibleglue-joint

Finger-joint

Lock miterDovetail

Drawer-lockjoint

Straight

TTooddaayy’’ss CCuutttteerr DDeessiiggnnss AArree SSaaffeerrOnce the exception, now the rule, anti-kickback cutter designs (left)

have largely replaced the open gullet tool bodies of yesteryear (right).

Also called chip-limiting, this bit style restricts the

bite of the cutting edge by reducing its expo-

sure, making over-

feeding and kick-

back much less

likely. Careful,

though — they

still aren’t any

friendlier to flesh.


Decorative Bits

3/8" Cove

Table-edge1/2" Core-box(Round-nose)

Multi-form Molding

OOnnee TThheemmee:: FFiivvee VVaarriiaattiioonnss

““CCoommppoonneenntt”” BBiittss PPrroovviiddee VVeerrssaattiilliittyy

These five flush-trim bits work the same

way, but the small laminate trimming

bit on the left can’t handle the

thicker stock and heavy cuts

its siblings are built for. Bits

with larger shanks and/or

spiral flutes are better at

pattern-routing wood.

Some router bits feature interchangeable components that let

them do the work of several cutters. Seven different guide bearings

let this rabbeting bit (left) cut six rabbet depths

or double as a flush-

trim bit. The slot-cutter

set (right) swaps the

cutting bodies to create

varied slot widths.

Major Router Bit Manufacturers■ Amana Tool Corp. (800) 445-0077■ American Tool/Irwin (800) 866-5740■ Bosch/S-B Power Tool (800) 815-8665■ CMT USA (888) 268-2487■ DeWalt (800) 433-9258 ■ Eagle America (800) 872-2511■ Freud USA (800) 472-7307■ Grizzly/S-Y (800) 523-4777■ Jesada Tools (800) 531-5559■ MLCS (800) 533-9298■ Ocemco/P.R. Carbide (800) 237-8613■ Oldham/Viper (800) 828-9000■ Porter-Cable Corp. (800) 487-8665■ Vermont American (800) 626-2834■ Whiteside Machine Co. (800) 225-3982C o l o r e d s q u a r e s i n d i c a t e m a n u f a c t u r e r ’s b i t c o l o rHouse-hold ammonia,

Formula 409, and oven cleaner willremove pitch, but I like to use non-toxic products such as Simple Greenor some of the new citrus-basedcleaners.

Specialty CuttersFor moving beyond the basics, myfavorites are specialty profiles forcutting joinery. These bits do fastand precise work, creating self-aligning joints that make glue-upmuch easier. Examples include areversible glue joint, a lock miter, adrawer lock joint, a slot cutter set, adovetail bit, and a finger-joint cutter.

Because joinery cutters usuallyremove most or all of the board’soriginal edge, nearly all of them aredesigned for use in a table-mountedrouter only, and must be used witha guide fence. If you limit yourselfto freehand routing, you’ll have tolive without help from these cut-ters. I don’t think the trade-off isworth it. Even a relatively simplerouter table (see our portabledesign in the February 1998Workbench) will let you machine pre-cise joinery quickly and accurately.

With the wide range of router bitsnow offered, router tables also mimicthe role that used to belong exclu-sively to spindle shapers. Panel-raising bits (like the one shown onpage 1) and stile-and-rail cutter setslet you produce custom cabinet doorsjust like the pros do. One warning:

shapers typically run at only 7,000 -12,000 rpm — one-third to half thespeed of most routers — because thelarge cutter diameters create dan-gerous rim speeds at higher rpmlevels. If you want to use a big bit ina router table, the router motorshould have a speed reduction fea-ture. Other specialty cutters are

more about form than function.Designed to produce decorativedetails, these include multi-formbits, molding cutters, round-noseand V-groove bits for fluting andbead routing, and many others. Likejoinery bits, many of the larger sizesare for router table use only.

SOURCE LIST


WWhheenn BBiiggggeerr IIssnn’’tt BBeetttteerr

Coarse grain

Phot

os C

ourte

sy o

f:Fr

eud

U.S.

A.

Micrograin

UUnnddeerrssttaannddiinngg CCaarrbbiiddee

Unlike tool steels, which are forged in a molten stateand machined into drill bits and edge tools such as

chisels and plane irons, tungsten-carbide is what’s knownas a sintered metal. It is formed by mixing fine grains ofcarbon with powdered tungsten, then consolidating themixture under intense pressure and heat. Developed firstfor the metalworking industry, carbides also containcobalt (about 6-10 percent in woodworking grades), whichhelps bind the carbide particles together and allows theotherwise brittle blank to be brazed (welded) with silveralloy to a tool body.

Carbides don’t have the fine crystalline structure ofhigh-speed steel. Their edge-holding capability is a func-tion of their grain size and how well the binder preventsedge-fractures and resists chemical erosion — two of thethree culprits responsible for most carbide wear (theother is heat). The best grades are “micrograin,” with anaverage particle size of one micron (a millionth of ameter). Larger grains mean bigger voids and more binder,producing a softer compound and a rough, dull edge asgrains break off during use.

(continued )


Of the dozen or so power toolsthat have taken up permanent

residence in my shop, only two get pref-erential treatment. Both are routers.My various drills, saws, and sandersall do their jobs without fail, and I relyon each one, but none inspires the

absurd devotion I can feel for a fire-breathing 21/2-hp plunge router.Confessthis to a normal person and they’ll makea mental note to sit near someone elsenext time. But tell a fellow woodworker,and he’ll just nod his head and smile.

Whether they’re cutting a recess for

a precision inlay, shaping the edge of aboard, or machining joinery details,routers earn their keep like no otherportable power tool.

By itself, though, a router is just powerand potential. What makes it sing arespecialized cutters, edge guides, jigs,and other accessories. These things givethe tool amazing versatility, but in myshop they also tend to get scattered inodd places while I work. I decided toremedy the problem with this dedicatedstorage cabinet.

Aside from a storage bay for my dove-tail jig and a pair of drawers to holdaccessories and oversize cutters, thiscabinet offers other bonuses. The doorsprovide room for up to 40 bits, all heldin place so the cutting edges don’t collidewith each other. Also, clearance holesin the shelf let me store the routersstanding up without removing orbacking off the bit.

The drop-front lower door, though, ismy favorite feature. I use it as a tray tochange bits, install an edge guide, orjust fine-tune adjustments. My tools don’tstray like they used to, and the doorframe acts as a rim to keep bits and bear-ings from rolling off.

Use Strong MaterialsI wanted this cabinet to be stout butsimple, so I used just two sizes of BalticBirch plywood for all the components.Most suppliers label these panels as frac-tional inch sizes (1/4" and 3/4" for thepanels I used), but they’re made tometric dimensions (6mm and 18mmthick, respectively). The thicker panelactually checks in at 11/16'', so that’s what

Router CabinetComplete Step-by-Step Plans


Router Cabinet Construction View

I used to plan my joinery design(Router Cabinet ConstructionView). Also, it comes in sheets 60"square. I cut the panel into sections(red lines) for batches of variousparts(Plywood Cutting Diagram). Mostof the joinery details will be easierto machine on these larger pieces,then you can cut the individual partslater (black lines). Make sure yourrough sizes allow for the blade kerfs.Each cut will mean a loss of up to1/8" of material.

CCuutt LLiisstt:: 1188mmmm PPaanneellA Carcase side panels (2)

10" × 361/4"B Carcase top/bottom (2)

101/4" × 231/8"C Shelves (2)

91/4" × 231/8"D Drop-front door panel (1)

11" × 231/8"E Upper door stiles (4)

21/2" × 241/8"F Upper door rails (4)

21/2" × 11"G Drop-front door rails (2)

21/2" × 231/8"H Drop-front door stiles (2)

21/2" × 12"I Door shelf inserts (8)

2" × 105/8''J Drawer bottoms (2)

77/8" × 103/8"K Drawer fronts/backs (4)

53/8" × 107/8"L Door shelf lips (2)

3/4" × 10"M Divider (1)

6" × 91/4"

Plywood Cutting Diagram

Router CabinetA kit has been assembled for thisproject that includes the hinges, braces,50 nylon bit bushings (25 in each size),and all fasteners. Order No. 3305100To order call Workbench Project Supplies

1-800-311-3994

WORKBENCH PROJECT SUPPLIES

OVERALL SIZE: 361/4"H× 24!/8"W× 13"D


Cutting the JoineryOnce I’d shimmed my dado blade tomatch the plywood thickness, thecarcase joinery was simple — rabbetjoints at the corners, and dadoes forthe shelves and shelf divider(Carcase Assembly View and SidePanel Detail). I managed it with justthe table saw and a dado blade (ProTip and Figure 1).

After I machined these joints I gotready to change the dado setup, butrealized I might as well cut all thedoor frame rabbets while I was at it(see the door assembly views pages58-59). Consolidating these stepsrequired a little labeling work to keepall the parts organized, but it did saveme from making a few bladechanges.

While I still had the wide dadoblade set up, I also cut a groove inthe drop-front door rails and stilesfor housing an 11/16"-thick panel (seepage 10). This door doubles as awork tray, and I didn’t think the 1/4"plywood I bought for the other doorpanels would provide the rigid sup-port I wanted. A 1/2"-thick panelwould have been plenty, but to keepmy materials list simple I just optedfor the thicker plywood I had on handfor the carcase sides.

Next, switch to a 1/4" dado bladeand cut the grooves that hold the cab-inet back panel (Figure 2). Whenyou cut this detail in the carcasepieces, keep in mind that the top andbottom panels are 1/4" wider than theside panels and will be offset at therear edge. (This offset simplifies themounting system I used for the cab-inet, a feature I’ll explain later.) Onefence setting will do the grooves in allfour carcase panels, if you guide eachpanel with its front edge against thefence.

The upper door frame rails andstiles also need a 1/4" groove to accepttheir panels.

One other detail I added was a pairof holes in the upper shelf to make iteasier to store my routers (ShelfDetail). These holes, cut with a 21/8"-dia. hole saw I’d bought to install alockset, allow me to set the routersdirectly on the shelf and leave thecutter settings intact.

Assembling the CarcaseAt this point you can assemble thecarcase and let the glue set up whileyou cut some of the remaining partsfor the cabinet. I did take one slightdetour before reaching for the glue,though. I drilled and countersunkholes in the side panels so I couldscrew the carcase together. It’s faster

Carcase Assembly ViewSide Panel Detail Shelf Detail

PRO TIPFor odd plywood thicknesses, lose the habit of measuring joint depth.Plywood thicknesses used to be reliable, but with today’s undersize and metric

panels the resulting odd fractions create headaches, especially when cutting joints

that affect the overall dimensions of a project. Avoid mistakes by designating the

thickness of the remaining material, not the joint depth, as your working dimension.

Keep matched parts together for machining the joinery, thencut them apart later. Fine-tune the dado width with shims ifnecessary, and adjust depth of cut to leave 1/2" of material.

When you switch to a 1/4" dado for the nar-rower panel grooves, keep the front edge ofeach piece against the fence.

21

(Inside View) (Top View)


4

5Cut the drawer rabbets on double-wideblanks, then rip the pieces in half to get adrawer front and back from each one.

6Cauls direct clamping pressure to the bottom of thedrawer assembly. Align the front and back first, thenglue in the sides. For more strength, I secured therabbet joint with brads.

Fit the cabinet’s shelves and divider together first, then glue andfasten the carcase side panels. All front edges should be down.

After gluing and fastening the bottom carcase panel to the sides,slide the 1/4" back panel in, then add the top carcase panel.

than putting the assembly togetherwith clamps, and this is a shop cab-inet, so I don’t mind having the fas-teners show.

Start the assembly by gluing andfitting the vertical divider betweenthe two shelves. Then spread a beadof glue in the dadoes in the sidepanels, fit the shelf assembly in place,and put a clamp on to steady every-thing while you’re driving the screws(Figure 3).

The cabinet’s top and bottompanels are next, but don’t install bothpieces at once or you’ll lose access forinserting the back panel into itsgroove. I glued and screwed thebottom panel in its rabbets, thennudged the assembly square and slidthe back panel in from the top end ofthe cabinet (Figure 4). Then Iinstalled the top panel to close up thecarcase.

Building the DrawersWhile the glue was setting up in thecarcase joints, I went back to thetable saw to cut all the parts for the

drawers. With only rabbet and buttjoints, these assemblies are even sim-pler to build than the others (DrawerAssembly View). The drawer frontsand backs are identical down to thehalf-round cutout pulls. This featureisn’t intended to make the drawersreversible (although they are).Instead it’s to provide clearance inthe back for any bits that extenddown through the shelf above. I cutthese with the same hole saw I usedearlier on the shelf, drilling into thecenter of two larger pieces that I cutin half later.

Because the rabbets in the drawerfronts and backs are so shallow (1/4"),I didn’t bother reinstalling my dadoblade. I just set my rip fence so theleft side of the blade was cutting atthe 1/4" mark, set the blade height,and made one pass on each edge todefine the shoulders of the rabbets.(Figure 5). Then I just scooted theboard away from the fence and madea cleanup pass guided by the mitergauge. With the rabbets done, I cutthe face blanks in half.

Start the drawer assemblysequence by gluing and clampingthe front and back faces to the endsof the drawer bottom. You’ll need touse some 3/4"-thick clamping cauls tokeep the pressure from “folding” thefaces inward (Figure 6). Gluing thedrawer sides in place will also helpkeep things aligned. A glued-onlyjoint would likely hold up fine here,but I drove brads into each cornerfor extra strength.

Drawer Assembly View

3


Assembling the DoorsWith no integral shelves or fixeddividers to worry about, the doorassemblies fit together quickly, withjust a captive panel and rabbet jointsat the corners (Upper DoorAssembly View, Drop-Front

Door Assembly View, StileDetails, and Rail Details).You have to insert the panelbefore you close up eachframe, and the assembliesmust be flat and square toensure a good fit against thecarcase. I glued up one end ofeach frame, fit the panel, thenclamped each door to myworkbench (Figure 7). Idrove the screws immediatelybut left the clamps on for anhour while the glue set.

Fitting the DoorsThe door designs for this cabinet pro-vide built-in bit storage and a con-venient work surface, but these fea-tures come at a price — extra weight.To make sure the mounting hard-ware was up to the strain, I used a24"-long continuous hinge (some-times called a piano hinge) to mounteach door. These hinges have screw

holes spaced every 2", enough tospread a heavy load out across theirfull length.

Under most circumstances, I’llinstall hinges on doors first, thenthe cabinet. But with this design, Ifastened the hinges first to the frontedges of the cabinet — one on eachside and one across the bottom(Figure 8). I clamped one leaf ofeach hinge to the cabinet (its edgeflush with the inside face of thepanel), then drove a few screws tohold it in place. (The hinges haveno adjustment feature, so I waiteduntil all three doors were alignedbefore driving all the screws.)

When I was ready to fasten thehinges to the doors, I set the cab-inet upright and clamped supportblocks on each side, letting thedoors rest on them (Figure 9). Iused more clamps to hold eachhinge to a door edge, and drove onlyfour screws into each door frame —just enough to keep everything con-nected. After I mounted all thedoors, I shut them and checked fora uniform 1/8" gap between, thensent screws through the remainingholes in each hinge.

With one end of each door frame assembled, insert the panel, install theother rail, and clamp the door flat before driving the other screws.

To ensure accurate placement, clamp each hinge in place — flush withthe inside edges of the carcase panels — then drive just a few screws.

Upper Door Assembly ViewStile Details Rail Details

87

(Inside

View)

(Inside View)

(End View)(End View)

Note: Cut rabbets in thestiles only. On the upper doors, these are

the longer frame pieces; on the drop-front door (facing page), the stiles are the short frame pieces.


With each upper door resting on a support block,clamp its top end to the hinge before fastening.

The doors also need some otherhardware. I drilled screw holes inthe panels to install the pull knobs,and in the cabinet edges so I couldpress-fit the magnetic catches(Figure 9).

The drop-front door also requiresa pair of hinged support arms. Forextra heft here, I ended up using apair of folding table leg braces fromThe Stanley Works (#446 -1/2- 2C).

These braces are marked for left-hand and right-hand installation, andfeature positive-locking and a releasebutton for closing them. I screwedthe lower end of each support armdirectly to the inside face of the doorframe stile (backed by several 3/16"flat washers), but the offset at thetop end requires a double layer of1/4" plywood to serve as a mountingblock on the inside of the carcasepanel (Drop-Front Door SupportDetail). I opted to run longer piecesand use them as supports for a looseshelf made from scrap plywood. I usethis spot to keep router manuals andthe instruction booklet for my dove-tail jig.

Door Shelf InsertsBuilding router bit storageinto the upper doors reallyexploits the usable storagespace in this cabinet. At first Ithought I would simply cutdadoes in the door frames andglue permanent shelves in

place, but when I started the layoutmarking it became obvious that thedadoes would interfere with thepanel grooves and corner joints.Besides, I’ve found with other proj-ects that over-customized storagegets obsolete in a hurry (anyoneremember eight-track tapes?). Myrouter bit inventory has grown a lotover time, and I wanted a storagesystem that could evolve with it.

The simplest solution proved tobe a series of eight interchangeableshelf inserts, four for each door. Theinserts stack inside the door recesseswith help from thin plywood spacers,the last pair of which gets screwed inplace to secure everything below. Ikept all the inserts the same size tostreamline the cutting chores.

Rail Details

Stile Details

Drop-Front Door Assembly View

Drop-Front DoorSupport Detail

9

(Cross Section View)

(Inside View)

(End View)

(End View)

(Edge View)

(InsideView)


10Using a notched push block, cut the endrabbets for the shelf inserts on an oversizeblank, then rip it to the required sizes.

11As you work your way up the door, eachshelf insert locks the spacers below inplace. Fasten the top spacers with screws.

Shelf Insert Details

Shelf Inserts Assembly View

I cut a pair of shallow rabbets onthe ends of each insert (Shelf InsertDetails). These create a self-lockingfeature by holding the vertical

spacers captive without fasteners orglue. Just as I did with the joinerydetails on the carcase sides, Imachined these rabbets on largerpieces (two 81/2"-wide × 105/8"-longpanels), as shown in Figure 10.Then I ripped them to the requiredsize. This process is faster than cut-ting the joints piecemeal, and itmakes the stock easier to handle.

After all the inserts are cut, youcan drill holes for the nylon bush-ings that hold the router bit shanks.These bushings are just plasticsleeves with either a 1/4" or 1/2" bore.They make it easier to get the bitsin and out, and you can drill differenthole patterns to accommodate thespace requirements of your variouscutters.

I cut 20 shelf spacers from 1/4" ply-wood and drilled 3/16"-dia. screwholes in the center of four of them— the rest simply press-fit in. After Iset the first two spacers at the bottomof each door recess, I glued a narrowstrip of 11/16" plywood to the bottomframe rail. This keeps the spacersseated and creates a pocket forstoring small items such as extra col-lets and guide bearings.

The shelf inserts stack in place,locking the spacers as you workyour way up (Figure 11). As soonas I had them all fitted, I drovescrews to hold the top spacerssnugly in place.

I hung the cabinet using a pair of3/4"-thick bevel-edged mounting

rails — one screwed to the cabinetback and one to the wall studs(Mounting Detail).

Five minutes after the cabinet wason the wall, I had my routers nestingon the upper shelf and both doorsfilled with router bits. I also added afew screw hooks to hold the routercords up and hang edge guides. I figuredthat’s prob-ably enough.If I get anymore organized,it’ll be a crime.

What You’ll NeedLumber

(1) sheet 18mm (11/16") × 60" × 60" Baltic Birch plywood or equivalent

(1) sheet 6mm (1/4" ) × 60" × 60" BalticBirch plywood or equivalent

Hardware*(76) #6 × 1/2" flat-head wood screws(3) 24"L × 11/2"W continuous hinges(1) pr. table leg braces (Stanley 446-1/2 -2C)

(48) #6 × 11/4" drywall screws(8) #10 × 1" pan-head sheet metal screws(6) 2" L-hooks with screw thread(8) 3/16" flat washers(4) 7/16" round magnetic catches(3) 11/4"-dia. wood knobs

(50) nylon bit bushings (25 ea. 1/4" and 1/2")*(Workbench kit available; see page 6)

Mounting Detail

Any hobby can be easier tomanage with this cabinet!

Documents

Router Bit Basics - SharefoodForestmedia.sharefoodforest.org/literatur/technik/holz/RouterBitBasics... · Router Bit Basics TOOLS & TECHNIQUES ... also cut other joinery details