DIY Router Table10. Set router edge guide to 6" and router slots with 1/4" Bit 11. Sand all edges DIY Router Table: Page 5 DIY Router Table: Page 6 Step 3: Legs Legs are designed to

instructables

DIY Router Table

by joshmt2012

I just bought a new Craftsman router and was wanting a router table to mount it in and decided to build my own.

Some of the features I wanted were

Adjustable fenceDust CollectionSwitch to control router and vacuumEase of access to router

DIY Router Table: Page 1

Step 1: Design, Materials and Tools

I modeled my design in Solidworks so I had a set of plans to go off of. I designed the top and fence out of 3/4"plywood I had left over from another project and the legs are made out of 2x4 material.

The top dimensions came from the largest piece of plywood I had so you can change this to fit yourneeds.The location of the mounting holes came from my router base and my change depending on yourrouter.Size of dust collection hole in fence can be changed to fit your system.

Materials

3/4" Plywood~5ft of 2x4Wood Glue2 x Outlet Boxes1 x Switch and Cover1 x Outlet and Cover~16" of House Wire2 x Wire Nut2 x Wire StaplesElectrical plug (I used one off an old battery backup)Assortment of screws from 1-1/2" to 2-1/2" (Used what I had laying around)3 x 10-32, 1" long Counter sink bolts for mounting router (Use suitable size for your router)2 x 1/4", 2-1/2" long Carriage Bolts2 x 1/4" washers2 x 1/4" Wing Nuts

Tools

Tape MeasureChop SawTable SawDrillDrill/Drive BitsRouter1/4 Router BitNail Gun (Optional, used to nail glued pieces so as not to have to wait for them to dry)Taper Jig for table sawSand PaperOutlet Tester (Optional but Recommended)


Step 2: Top

1. Cut top to desired size, for me this was the size of a piece I had laying around2. Layout holes for mounting router, I traced the removable plastic plate from my router base to locate

my holes3. Layout slots for movable fence from the drawing4. Center punch all holes and ends of slots5. Pilot drill all holes6. Drill 3/16" holes for mounting router7. Counter sink holes8. Drill 1-1/2" hole for router spindle9. Drill 1/4" holes for ends of slots

10. Set router edge guide to 6" and router slots with 1/4" Bit11. Sand all edges


Step 3: Legs

Legs are designed to use a single 12" piece of 2x4 for each leg and then a 12" piece ripped down center for thecross bars.

1. Cut 5, 12" sections of 2x4 (I cut 6 just in case I messed one up)2. Layout angled cut on 4 pieces3. Set up taper jig to cut correct angle4. Cut legs5. Layout legs to glue them together, make sure that you have 2 sets that mirror each other to make up

each side of the legs6. Start screws in the larger side then apply glue to smaller piece, flush the top of the 2 and drive the

screws in7. Repeat step 6 for all 4 legs8. Sand all edges9. Rip one of the remaining 12" pieces of 2x4 down the center, these will be the cross bars

10. Sand all edges11. Glue and screw together the 2 mirrored legs with a cross bar as shown in the pictures12. Repeat step 9 for the other set of legs13. Attach the 2 sets of legs to the top, 2" in from the top edge on all sides


Step 4: Fence

1. Cut an at least 7-1/8" wide piece of plywood to the same length as the top (In my case 22-1/2")2. Rip a 3" and 4" section3. Layout the cutout section on both the front and bottom pieces of the fence and the holes on the

bottom piece4. Cut sections out, I used a miter gauge and cut them on the table saw but a jig saw or hand saw

would work5. Center punch, pilot drill and 1/4" drill holes in bottom piece6. Sand edges7. Glue and screw the front to the bottom section with the 4" section vertical8. Cutout pieces for dust collection from drawings9. Test fit all pieces, trim if necessary, sand all edges

10. Glue angled side pieces and nail, otherwise clamp and wait to dry11. Glue top making sure to get a good bead of glue on all contacting surfaces to create a good seal

and nail into the angle pieces, otherwise clamp and wait to dry.12. Center top extension, glue, clamp and wait to dry13. Drill hole for dust collection hose (In my case 1-1/2")


Step 5: Electrical

I wanted my switch to sit vertical so I cut an angle piece (about 8 deg angle) to put between the box and the leg, ifyou don't mind the switch being tilted you can omit this step.

1. Pilot drill then use 3/8" drill to drill hole in top of one box2. Mount switch box to front using included nails3. Mount box with hole drilled in top to the back leg as shown in pictures using screws4. Run wire from switch box to outlet box5. Wire hot (Black) to brass screw, neutral (White) to silver screw and the ground to the green screw6. Run outlet chord into switch box7. Wire hot (Black) in to bottom of switch and hot out to the top, use jumper to wire ground in as seen

in picture and wire neutrals (White) together8. Screw outlet and switch into boxes and attach cover plates9. (Optional but recommended) Use Outlet tester to make sure everything is wired correctly and you

wont ruin any equipment plugged in or shock yourself when using it.


1. Hot In

2. Hot Out3. Neutrals

4. Cant See the Grounds

1. Outlet Tester

1

2

3

4

1


Step 6: Conclusion and Recomendation

Overall I liked the way it came out and it works good for my use, if you have any comments or sugestions pleasefeel free to post them.

A few things I would add or change would be:

Add slots to front of fence to allow adjustable auxiliary fences to be used on different router bitsAdd slot to front of table to allow a bolt to cut circles with

Thank you for reading my Instructable and have a nice day.


DIY Router TableStep 1: Design, Materials and ToolsStep 2: TopStep 3: LegsStep 4: FenceStep 5: ElectricalStep 6: Conclusion and Recomendation

Documents

DIY Router Table10. Set router edge guide to 6" and router slots with 1/4" Bit 11. Sand all edges DIY Router Table: Page 5 DIY Router Table: Page 6 Step 3: Legs Legs are designed to