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Online Quilt Magazine.com

Premium Issue Vol.6 No.1 – January 2015

New Year’s

Resolutions

– With A

Twist!

New Project

- Scrappy

Star Quilt

How To Get

Organised on a

Budget

How To Save

Time Cutting

Patches

Easy Four

Patch

Quilt

Pattern

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Online Quilt Magazine Table of Contents

New Year's Resolutions - With a TWIST…….…………………………………………………...………………….…..……………………………….………………………………..……….. Page 4

Getting Organized on a Budget …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….

Common Quilting Questions Answered ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………..

PROJECT – Scrappy Star Quilt…………………………………………….………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….

Page 7

Page 10

Page 17

Saving Time When Cutting Lots of Shapes for Making a Quilt ………………………………………………………………………..…………………………….…………………….. Page 26

Hints and Tips From Brannie …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….…………………………………………. Page 29

What’s New from The Fat Quarter Shop ……………………………………..…………………………….………………………………………………………………………..………………. Page 31

PROJECT – Easy Four Patch Quilt Pattern …………………………..………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… Page 34

How to Create and Promote a Shop on Etsy ..………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………. Page 38

PROJECT – Shoe Pouch …………………………………….….……..…………………………………………………………………………………….…………………………………………………. Page 40

Doodling in Makassar …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………. Page 47

Book Reviews ……………………………………………………………………………………………………….……………..…………………………………..………….……………………………...

Recipe Corner –Three-Cheese Pastizzi .………………………………….…………………………………………..…..…………………………………………………………………………….

Reader “Show and Tell” …………………………………………………………………………………..…………………………….……………………………….………………………………...…

Page 50

Page 54

Page 56

BLOCK OF THE MONTH –Cross 13 Block ……..………….………………………………………………………...……………........................................................................ Page 61

Today's Tips.................................................................................................................................................................................................................. Page 64

YES – We Want To hear From You .............................................................................................................................................................................. Page 65

Cover – Scrappy Star Quilt

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Letter from the Editor

Jody Anderson

Hi!

Happy New Year! We hope you’ve all survived the holiday season happy and healthy and all refreshed

and ready to get stuck into 2015!! I had a big sewing room clean up before Christmas, and now that I can

see the floor again (yes – I know!), I’ve also rediscovered all sorts of projects that I’d put aside last year.

I’m quite excited to get stuck into some of them again now, and I love this time of new beginnings (and

re-starts), and creative ideas that seem to flow at this time of year.

New Year’s resolutions with a twist (page 4) seem quite do-able to me, and this issue we have all sorts of

great ideas for saving time or money, as well as two new quilt projects and a bag pattern for you to try.

Your favourites are back – new fabrics, more books, recipes, tips and of course, Brannie!

We have all sorts of great things planned to share with you this year too, so grab a cuppa, sit down and

have a read through, and Watch This Space!

Jody

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Have you given up making resolutions?

Do you think they are hokey?

You know you won't follow through anyways so

why even try to make one?

You can hardly make 30 days. And really what

needs 365 days of fixing?

I looked it up and here is what I found:

resolution

Pronunciation: \Ìre-zY-Èlü-shYn\

Function: noun

1: the act or process of resolving: as a: the act of

analyzing a complex notion into simpler ones b:

the act of answering :solving c: the act of

determining

I have not made a resolution in two years, not

with a pen and paper anyway. I secretly thought

of things and left them in my mind, knowing it

wouldn't get done and so this year I am trying

something a bit different and--I Triple Dare you to

try it this! --Instead of one resolution I am going

to make 12 resolutions. Now how daring is that!!

Here is the twist.

A new one for every month of this year; Yes I am

going to committed to something new each

month.

I do believe there is truth in the fact that you can

change a habit in just 21 days. So if I can do

New Year's Resolutions - With a TWIST

By Kimberly Schick-Puddicombe

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something for 30 days it should be easier to flow

into the rest of the year.

Just think I get to start each month fresh, no guilt

about what did or didn't happen with the

knowledge that I will work through the resolution

every month both personally and professionally.

Here's what happens if you don't make a

resolution!

Did you know that by not making resolutions you

are not allowing yourself to have the most

fulfilling life? What you might be asking yourself?

Well by not writing down goals - which is vital to

all businesses so why would it not be vital for

your personal life as well; by not finishing or

starting you are instead procrastinating over the

scary potential or the outcome.

Don't believe me, but ask yourself this, have you

taken a class in which you have not done

anything with the new knowledge you have

gained, but you know of at least three things

during that class that you said "yes" this is easy?

Or have you started a project and never finished

it completely? Well I have a quilt I started 2 years

ago and I am going to get it finished.

Next, ask yourself how many times you have

thought about that project. I couldn’t tell you

how many times I have looked at my son's bed

and wished the quilt was finished. The time I have

spent over the year thinking and wishing I had

completed the project would have probably been

3 times the amount of time it will actually take

me to finish the project. That is where the stress

and frustration come in.

Let's make it EASY!

I hear you already, If you can't make one

resolution how do you find 12 different

resolutions? Here is the easy part, (I never said I

was going to make them so hard that I would

dread doing them.)

You have to write them down - that is vital.

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Come up with a few ideas or think about what

frustrates you through the year and try to pick a

month that it works best to focus resolving that

goal.

My business coach always tells me to "15

Minute" my way along. And it works. I bought a

timer and commit to doing projects '15 minutes'

at a time and then move on to the next item.

Happy New Year!

About the Author: Kimberly Schick-Puddicombe is the

Founder and Publisher of Moms, Dads and Kids. & The Little

Black Book for busy families TM. Her transition from full

time marketer with a demanding career to full time mom

with 2 fabulously active kids had her on a constant search

for things to keep them occupied so she launched Alberta

fun finder website http://www.momsdadsandkids.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kimberly_Schick-

Puddicombe

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You're a do-it-yourself kind of person. You want

to get organized. You have the motivation; the

energy; the plan... but you haven't the cash.

Well, I'm here to tell you that you can still

accomplish your goal without investing in costly

supplies. With a little elbow grease and/or

planning, we can find creative and inexpensive

solutions.

One time I purchased an old green sewing cabinet

for a small amount of money. I stripped the green

paint and found that the wood was oak, and it

also had brass hinges. Once I re-stained the oak

and polished the brass, I was thrilled with the

results.

I've also purchased old water-stained dressers,

repainted the, purchased new knobs, and I've got

the shabby chic look!

Let's say you need a good used file cabinet.

Where would you find one? You could drive from

yard sale to yard sale, or just go directly to a

source.

By searching the Yellow Pages or the internet,

you can find a used office furniture warehouse in

your area. I've purchased everything from used

cubicles, task lighting, desks, file cabinets,

bookshelves, task chairs... and all I needed was

patience, cash, a pick-up truck, and a good pair of

walking shoes. I would rather buy a used, dented

heavy-duty file cabinet, than purchase a new,

poor quality file cabinet.

Getting Organized on a Budget

By Linda Griffith from www.organisedoption.com

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One year, a local company went out of business

and advertised that they were selling off their

furniture. On the day of the sale, I arrived at 5:00

a.m. Although I found myself in a long line of

other savvy buyers, there was more than enough

inventory for everyone.

I purchased a complete U-shaped cubicle, file

drawers, overhead shelves and task lighting for

only $60 in cash. I didn't expect perfection in the

furniture; but it was functional, heavy-duty and

affordable.

Other opportunities exist when model home

furniture companies sell off their existing

inventory. Again, it's a cash and carry business,

but the furniture is mostly unblemished and like

new.

I also recommend building material warehouses.

These warehouses receive daily truckloads, and

inventory comes from many sources:

Manufacturer over-runs, discontinued items,

manufacturer mistakes, general contractor's

purchasing too much of a product. All of the

inventory is new, not used or damaged.

Image from Pinterest yummymummyclub.ca

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Whenever a client has needed inexpensive

storage solutions for their sewing room, I've gone

to my local warehouse and purchased a kitchen

pantry. They come in a variety of wood and stain,

and most items are half off retail.

One time I bought a beautiful maple cabinet and

since one of the drawer fronts wasn't screwed in

perfectly, I got it for less than half off retail. Keep

in mind, however, that at these types of

warehouses, merchandise is sold as is, and all

sales are final.

So, put on your thinking cap and get creative. It

takes time to research and squeeze through the

aisles of these huge warehouses but, if you're on

a budget, it's a priceless investment.

About the Author: Linda Griffith, owner of The Organized

Option, is a Professional Organizer & Speaker based in

Phoenix. The creator of the Messiest Sewing Room Contest

TM, Linda has helped dozens of sewers, crafters and home-

based business owners to achieve a clutter-free, efficient

work area and regain their lost energy. A national speaker,

Linda's presentations blend practical how-to organizing tips

with motivation and humor. She's also a regular columnist

in the international publication, The Country Register. Linda

can be reached at 480-755-3991, or through her website,

http://www.organizedoption.com where you can sign up

for her free monthly e-newsletter.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Linda_Griffith

Keep up to Date with What’s Happening on our

Facebook Page – Do You Love Quilting Too?

Bonus blocks, hints and tips added all the time!!

http://www.facebook.com/#!/pages/Do-

You-Love-Quilting-Too/271888039492644

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This month, we’re continuing a series of everyday

quilting questions that have been answered by

Leah.

Question: This is a lovely design, and one I would

like to try. I have yet to attempt any kind of

travel stitching, however. Doesn't it make your

quilt rather stiff? Also wouldn't it show up rather

badly on the back? Just trying to picture

everything...I suppose I should just go find some

scraps and try it. :)

Yep, the absolute best way to know how a design

will feel on a quilt is to quilt it. Just try it out and

see if you like it! But there's one extra thing to

keep in mind:

Scale!

If you stitch Paisley, or any Pivoting Design on a

super small scale and add extra travel stitching, it

will look something like this:

Quilting Question Answers

By Leah Day from www.FreeMotionQuilting.blogspot.com.au

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Here's the back of this exact same piece:

Does it look bad to you? This is really down to

personal opinion and how you want to quilt your

quilts and how you want them to look finished.

Cross this with the large scale Paisley I quilted in

the video for this week:

Here's the back of this quilt:

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There is a big difference between the large scale

and small scale, and not just in the feel of the

quilt. The goddess face is quilted on a very small

scale so it was designed to be super stiff.

The Batik Beauty quilt designed to be soft, but

yes, there is a difference in feel between Paisley

and Loopy Line or Circuit Board you see stitched

in blocks nearby.

So ultimately if you want a soft quilt and are

worried about stiffness, just make sure to keep

the quilting lines far apart (at least 1/2 inch). No

design will automatically make your quilt stiff so

long as you watch the closeness of the lines of

quilting.

Of course, a big factor in the stiffness of your

quilts comes from the batting in the middle.

More than anything else, the batting will

determine how your quilt drapes and feels on a

bed or hangs on a wall.

Question: I know that you like to use a higher

loft poly batting and you pretty much stick to

one kind. You probably have told us before, but

what brand do you use? What do you like about

this batting compared with others of this same

type?

Personally the whole loft thing with batting has

always confused the heck out of me. I can go to

Walmart and buy a "low loft" batting that is 1/2"

thick. I can then go to a quilt shop and buy a

package of high loft Quilter's Dream Poly and it's

not even 1/4" thick. Talk about confusing!

Loft is meant to describe the density or weight of

the quilt and the warmth you can expect to get

from it. A high loft will be warmer than a low loft

batting. That is pretty simple. But different

batting manufactures create batting in different

ways, so you can end up with a lot of different

thicknesses.

As for what I personally use: I use Quilter's

Dream Poly.

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That is the only batting I use because it's reliable,

it stitches wonderfully, hangs well on a wall, and

looks nice on a bed. What more could I want?!

As for thickness, or loft, I vary between the three:

low (request), mid loft (select) and high loft

(deluxe).

When I want to make a light bed quilt for use in

the summer, I use the Request thickness. For

everything else, I use Select loft. It's kind of my

default and the thickness I use the most overall.

For trapunto, the first layer is always with the

Deluxe thickness, the second layer with Select.

I like this batting because it's very thin. Even the

highest loft is less than 1/4" thick, which means

your quilt will never be big and bulky. The thicker

your batting, the harder it will be to squish that

quilt under the arm of your machine, so it really

does help to use thinner battings.

It might seem really boring or weird that I only

use one type of batting, but it's actually just

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another thing I do to eliminate uncertainty from

my quilts.

I don't like unpredictability. I want to know how

my quilt will finish and I want reliable results. I

don't want to re-invent the wheel every time I sit

down to quilt, and using different batting when I

have a brand I know and trust just seems like a

silly waste of time.

Of course it's good to shop around and try

different things, but once you figure out what you

like, do yourself a favor and stick with it! It will

save a lot of headaches and hair pulling later!

Now speaking of headaches, I had a really

annoying glitch start up with my machine

yesterday. I was working on the goddess face

above, a UFO that's been sitting on my floor for 6

months, and my thread started to act funny.

Here's what would happen: I'd be stitching along

just fine and then suddenly it was like too much

thread would be pulled down into the quilt,

creating a birds nest on the back and usually

breaking the thread on top.

Watching the thread feed into the machine, it

was doing something similar to what Pat

described a few weeks ago: looping up and

twisting as it entered the machine.

Now this is really obnoxious. It would happen

unpredictably, but consistently every 2-3 inches

of fill, which meant I was stopping to pick out the

birds nest, hide threads, and restart stitching over

and over as I filled the quilt block. It made the

whole process take much longer and honestly

ruined the fun of quilting because I was gritting

my teeth in frustration.

Sometimes it helps to just walk away from your

machine when stuff like this happens. Maybe it's

the alignment of the planets, the weather, the

feeling in the air, who knows what, that causes

machines to suddenly act funny.

But always remember that problems that

suddenly appear usually do so for a reason.

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Here's how I troubleshooted the problem by

changing 1 thing at a time, continuing to quilt,

and seeing if the problem persisted:

1. Change Needle - Most issues with thread stem

from a bent or broken needle. Even if you JUST

changed the needle YESTERDAY that could still be

the culprit. Needles are mass produced and

there's no guarantee you won't get a bent needle

straight out of the package.

Whenever a needle makes trouble in my

machine, particularly when I've just recently

changed it, I always remember the first night

James was born. I'd cleaned him up, put a tiny

diaper on his little body and we'd all snuggled

down in bed for the night when he suddenly

began to cry. Josh and I struggled to figure out

what was wrong and why he was crying.

Josh asked about his diaper and I shouted "I've

just changed him!" I remember refusing to check

because, in my brain, that couldn't possibly be it.

Turns out, he'd gone poo again and wasn't happy

about it. It's always been a lesson to me to

remember to gone on ahead and check and

change the most obvious thing, even if they've

just been checked and changed a minute ago.

While this definitely improved the thread nesting

issue, it didn't fix it completely.

2. Moved the spool - I was using a huge spool of

black thread for this quilt and I figured it might

not be feeding into the machine properly. I

moved it off the spool stand and further over on

the table to give it more distance from the

machine.

This also helped, but didn't totally fix the

problem. Then I thought back to when the

problem started.

3. Mental recall - I was using a huge 5000 meter

cone of black thread when the problem started. I

had not had the problem when using the smaller

spool of white thread. Ding!

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Obviously there is either a problem with how that

spool was wound during manufacturing, or a

problem with how my machine is feeding it into

the machine.

Regardless, I didn't feel like switching spools right

at that moment, so I kept working with it. Had

this been a more stressful day, I might have

chucked it in the trash never to be used again. It

obviously has issues and I'm not the type to

accept thread breaks every 2 inches.

As I said before, I don't like unpredictability. I

want to sit down at my machine and have it quilt

through space like butter, filling with no problem

until the bobbin runs out.

Unfortunately it doesn't always work out that

way, even for me! Just remember if your

machine gives you fits this week to stay calm and

carefully troubleshoot the problem by changing

one thing at a time. The culprit behind the issue

will soon become clear.

Let's go quilt,

Leah

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Project – Scrappy Star Quilt

By Jody Anderson from www.QuiltBlockoftheMonthClub.com

What do you do with those left over Jelly Roll strips? That’s easy – turn them into our cute-as-a-button

scrappy star quilt! This quilt is quick and easy to make, and uses up ALL those scraps too.

This quilt measures

62 inches x 62

inches square.

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You Will Need:

16 x 2½ inch Jelly Roll strips in darker/brighter

colours (We had leftovers from a roll called

“Martinique” by 3 Sisters for Moda).

8 x 2½ inch Jelly Roll strips in paler/duller colours

3 metres (3 ½ yards) plain fabric for the quilt top

and binding (We used a stone colour that was 44

inches wide.)

Backing fabric measuring at least 68 x 68 inches

square

Batting measuring at least 68 x 68 inches square

Star Blocks:

There are 16 star blocks in this quilt. Each block

has a different bold fabric for the front of the

star, and the background star points are from the

paler strips. You will get 2 blocks from each paler

jelly roll strip. Cut carefully, and you will use your

solid fabric and strips with very little waste.

Cut:

From each of the 16 darker jelly roll strips, cut 4

strips 7½ inches long, for the 16 different stars.

From each of the 8 paler jelly roll strips, cut 8

strips 5½ inches long. This will use the entire

strip, and be sufficient for the background points

of 2 stars.

From the plain fabric, cut 128 squares measuring

2½ inches x 2½ inches.

From the plain fabric, cut 64 squares measuring

5½ x 5½ inches.

Sort out and pair up your jelly roll strips – one set

of 4 longer darker strips with a set of 4 paler

strips for each block.

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You will use the small plain squares to

snowball the corners of the jelly roll

strips.

Fold each square in half with wrong

sides together and press as shown.

Refer to the picture for the direction of

these snowballed squares.

Lay the plain square at the top of each

jelly roll strip – the diagonal line runs

from bottom left to top right on the

long strips, and on the shorter paler

strips, the line starts at the top left

corner, and runs down to bottom right.

Align the top and side edges, open out

the fold and sew on the diagonal crease.

You will be able to chain piece these.

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Use the ¼ inch foot on your sewing

machine as a guide, and sew a second row

on the inside of the first, as shown.

Carefully cut between the seams (it will be

about an 1/8th inch seam allowance on

each side).

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Open out and press well.

Put the half square triangles aside in

pairs, for the outer border.

Sew one paler strip to the bottom of a

5½ inch plain fabric square.

Tip - When you sew these strips on,

align the top of the snowballed strip

with the edge of the larger square – this

will give you neat edges with an even ¼

inch seam allowance around each star.

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Then add the longer strip to the left

hand side as shown.

Make four of these blocks with the

same fabrics, and arrange to form the

star block as shown.

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Sew together in pairs, taking care to

press so the seams sit in opposite

directions, then join the halves together

to complete the block.

Press well.

Make 16 blocks.

Arrange the 16 blocks in a 4 x 4 layout and piece the blocks together in rows, then sew the rows

together for the centre of your quilt top. Again, press seams in opposite directions in alternate

rows, and your joining seams will sit together nicely.

Borders:

The first border is just from the plain fabric. Measure your quilt top first, to double check the

lengths. You will need to join strips for the required lengths.

We cut 2 strips 2½ inches wide and 56 inches long for the sides. Sew to the quilt top and press well.

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For top and bottom, we cut strips 2½ inches wide and 60½ inches long. Join them and press.

The second border is pieced from the half square triangles you made when you pieced the blocks.

Sew the half square triangles together in matching pairs as pictured, then join the pairs together until

you have 4 strips of 16 pairs. Press well.

As these strips are arranged to sit off centre along the borders, you will need to add a short strip of the

plain fabric to the end of each strip. Cut these strips 2 inches wide and about 8 inches for the sides,

and 10 inches for the top and bottom.

Refer to the photo of the finished quilt above for placement help. We chose to have our border

pointing ‘in’, so the plain strip was added to the lower end for the left hand border. Pin the border strip

in place and start sewing from the pieced squares end. Trim away the excess plain fabric at the other

end when you have finished.

The plain strip was added to the top for the right hand border. Again, pin and start sewing from the

pieced squares end, and trim the excess fabric from the plain end when finished.

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Cut two 2 inch squares from the plain fabric for the top and bottom borders. For the top, start with one 2

inch plain square, then add your pieced strip, and finally the plain 10 inch strip to the end. Press and sew

to the top border, starting with the plain square at the top left corner. Trim the excess fabric from the end

of the plain strip.

Repeat for the bottom border. Refer to the photo above, and add the plain strip, then the pieced strip and

the remaining 2 inch square. Pin and sew from the square end.

Finishing:

Lay the backing face down on a large flat surface. Smooth the batting on top, and then lay your quilt top on

top of that, facing up. Smooth all layers and pin or thread baste.

The design on this quilt allows for some great quilting options in the plain fabric squares between the stars.

You may like to add feathers or other motifs, or use a more complicated filler design.

From the remaining plain fabric, cut sufficient 2¼ inch strips for the binding. Join the 2¼ inch binding strips

with 45 degree seams. Press the ¼ inch seams open, then fold the strip in half, right sides out and press.

Join the binding to the right side of the quilt edge with a quarter inch seam, mitring each corner as you go.

Turn the folded edge of the binding to the back and slip stitch it in place with thread that matches the

binding to finish.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

For More Great Quilt Patterns, Visit www.QuiltBlockoftheMonthClub.com

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Even a quilt we may call "our labor of love" is

more cherished when quicker methods of

construction can be employed to cut down on the

time required to complete our beauty.

Many a quilt idea has been shelved because the

quiltmaker dreaded the time-consuming job of

cutting the pieces or shapes individually with

templates before the design could grow into a

thing of beauty.

Here is a great time-saver for cutting a large

number of identical pieces for a traditional design

or for cutting geometric shapes that will be

combined with strip-pieced sections. The secret is

using the rotary cutter to cut fabric strips from

which basic template shapes are then cut,

meaning that usually no more than two sides of

the shape remain to be cut. By stacking several

strips with one marked strip on top, the cutting

job goes very fast. This method will save fabric

and enable you to easily calculate fabric yardage.

Make a stiff template of the desired patch,

adding ¼ inch seam allowances on all sides. On

the template mark the fabric grain line, the

pattern-piece letter, and the fabric color to be

Saving Time When Cutting Lots of Shapes for

Making a Quilt

By Candy Hamilton from http://www.northwestembroidery.com/

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used. Cut the fabric yardage at one end on the

straight crosswise grain. Fold once down the

center and pin the two layers together.

To determine the strip width, place the template

on the cut edge of the fabric following the grain

line, then measure and mark the height of the

template across the folded fabric in several

places. Place the folded fabric on the cutting mat

and cut one strip on the markings, using a thick

acrylic ruler as a guide for a rotary cutter.

Open out the fabric strip and place the template

across the strip, matching the arrow on the

template and the fabric grain line. Mark only the

edges of the template that fall within the strip,

not the edges that fall on the strip edges. Patches

may touch one another, sharing one cutting line,

thus saving fabric and cutting time. Depending on

the number of patches required for a quilt, one

marked strip might be sufficient, or you could

need several marked strips.

The marked strip will be used as a cutting guide.

Place it over the straight cut end of the folded

fabric and rotary cut subsequent strips using the

acrylic ruler on the edge of the marked strip. Be

careful that you are not trimming threads from

the cutting-guide strip because that will make all

of the strips inaccurate.

Stack four to eight open strips right sides up with

the marked strip on top. Pin within the markings

for each patch, not across a line. If some shapes

are to be cut in reverse, alternate the strips right

side up and right side down in the stack so that

shapes will be cut in pairs. (Adjust the number of

"up" strips and "down" strips as necessary to end

up with the required number of patches.)

Place the acrylic ruler on the straight marked

lines that cross the strip (shown on the drawings

as heavier lines), then rotary cut those lines. After

the long straight lines are cut, sharp scissors then

can be used to cut curves and short lines. It is

most efficient to rotary cut long lines first and use

scissors on the other lines last.

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The presser foot on many sewing machines

measures ¼ inch from the needle to the right

edge and can be used as a seam gauge for

machine sewing these shapes. If needed, a gauge

can be marked on the throat plate of the machine

by placing a piece of masking tape ¼ inch from

the needle when it is in the down position.

For hand sewing, the seam lines can be marked

on the wrong side of each patch. An easy way to

do this is to make a second, stiff template of the

shape without the seam allowances. Center it on

the wrong side of the cut patch, and trace around

it with a pencil.

When marking patches, a sandpaper surface will

keep the patch from slipping. If you are an

experienced piecer and can gauge the ¼ inch

seam allowance by eye, you can mark a pencil dot

in the comers where the sewing lines will meet

and sew from dot to dot.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Candy_R_Hamilton

Join The Club!

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My Quilty-Mum bought me some new nunkies - you know those biscuit things. They are round and taste much the same as the last lot, but my Mum said, "Look, it's got your name on the packet! It says 'Furball'." She also read out "Furball Reduction System". So what! I've already got one of those. I just sick them up! We've had some very hot weather lately and my Quilty-Mum found it too hot to sew! That's how hot it was! I kept lying down flat on the hard floor to try to keep cooler. She decided to help me by giving me a bath! Now my predecessors may have liked swimming, but I haven't had lessons and I wasn't too keen. I can't get wet to the skin, of course - I'm too thick

- FUR that is, but I was pretty wet by the time she'd sloshed water all over. She then squeezed me dry and left me in the laundry to fluff up. I felt quite cool afterwards! Funny that! It gets light in the mornings earlier now as well, so I'm ready for breakfast and a run around earlier too. From bed my Mum keeps yelling numbers at me and groaning. Like: "Four twenty two... Ahhhhhhh.... Go away!" so I come and go a few times - often at great speed. "It's five twelve! Too early!" I sharpen my claws vigorously and loudly on my lovely scratching post, then have a gallop on the soft floor ending up with a leap onto Mum's tummy, across the bed and off again! Wheeee!

Hints and Tips From Brannie

By "Brannie" Mira-Bateman

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It's a cool time of day, I'm raring to go and I know she's awake. "Five thirty one! Noooo! Not yet!" More groaning. She said there are Little People coming soon, so they might like to play early in the morning. As long as they don't shout numbers at me I'll be right. They can run around the house with me and Mum can sleep in. That's a great idea!

Love Brannie,

the Quilt Block of the Month Club Cat!

FREE block patterns at http://627handworks.com/

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We're pleased to be able to bring you a selection

each month of the Newest Fabric Releases and

the new season fabric "must haves".

MISTLETOE LANE BY BUNNY HILL DESIGNS FOR

MODA FABRICS

It’s time to hang the mistletoe, and surround

yourself with family and friends! The Mistletoe

Lane collection is filled with soft pinks,

evergreens, and winterberry reds that’s perfect

for winter!

Available in yardage and all precut goods

including our exclusive Jolly Bar precut.

Check it out at:

http://www.fatquartershop.com/moda-

fabric/mistletoe-lane-bunny-hill-designs-moda-

fabrics

What's New from The Fat Quarter Shop

From Kimberly Jolly at www.FatQuarterShop.com

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HELLO, BEAR BY BONNIE CHRISTINE FOR ART

GALLERY FABRICS

Named after Bonnie’s son, Bear, this collection

inspires all to see the outdoors through a new set

of eyes. Illustrated with woodsy tones, Hello,

Bear invites all explores to listen to the playful

sounds of the wilderness. Available in yardage,

precut goods, and an exclusive Bear Hug Quilt Kit.

See More at:

http://www.fatquartershop.com/art-gallery-

fabrics/hello-bear-bonnie-christine-art-gallery-

fabrics

MILK, SUGAR & FLOWER BY ELEA LUTZ FOR PENNY

ROSE FABRICS

Surround yourself with all things sweet with the

Milk, Sugar & Flower collection. Available in all

precut goods and yardage.

View this Range at:

http://www.fatquartershop.com/milk-sugar-and-

flower-fat-quarter-bundle

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SUMMER COTTAGE BY PLANTED SEED DESIGNS FOR

RED ROOSTER FABRICS

Summer Cottage has all things summer in mind.

From the bright, clear colors of green grass, blue

skies, strawberry reds, lemon yellows, blueberry

blues and pristine white to the no-fuss prints, it

evokes a sense of light, casual airiness, like

everything summer!

See this collection at:

http://www.fatquartershop.com/red-rooster-

fabrics/summer-cottage-gerri-robinson-red-

rooster-fabrics

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PROJECT – Easy Four Patch Quilt Pattern

By Rose Smith from www.ludlowquiltandsew.co.uk

This easy four patch quilt pattern forms a grid along both diagonals with different sized squares. The quilt is a good size, at 74 inches square but can easily be made bigger or smaller by using different numbers of four patch quilt blocks.

I have used ½ yard each of the white and black floral fabrics, ½ yard each of the pink script and green border fabric, 1¾ yards of the red script and 1¼ yards of the pink tulip fabric in the border.

Cutting requirements

2½ inch squares: one hundred and twenty eight white floral, one hundred and twenty eight red script. These can be strip pieced, so don’t cut them until you have read the full pattern

4½ inch squares: sixty four red script, sixty four pink script, sixty four black floral

For the borders you will need eight 1½ inch strips of green fabric cut across the width of fabric and

sixteen 2½ inch strips of pink tulip fabric cut across the width of fabric.

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Making the small four patch quilt blocks

These can best be made by strip piecing.

Sew together a red and a white 2½ inch strip along the length. Press and then cut at 2½ inch intervals to make strips 2½ inches wide and 4½ inches long.

Place these in pairs with one of them rotated so that the red squares are diagonally opposite each other.

Make sixty four of these small four patch units.

Lay the small four patch units out with two red 4½ inch squares to make a full size four patch unit.

Sew the small four patch units together to make one 4½ inch square. Sew each one to a red square and then sew the pairs of squares together to complete the first four patch quilt block.

You will need thirty two of these.

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Making the large four patch quilt blocks

Lay out two pink 4½ inch squares and two black 4½ inch squares. Sew the squares together in pairs and then sew the pairs of squares together to complete the block.

You will need thirty two of these. I have called this the large four patch quilt block, although it is the same size as the first block – it’s just my way of differentiating between them.

Assembling the easy four patch quilt pattern

Lay the quilt blocks out in eight rows of eight. Begin the first row with a small four patch block and alternate with the large four patch block across the row.

Begin the second row with a large four patch block and alternate with the small four patch blocks across the row.

Continue alternating the blocks down all eight rows. Take care when you place the blocks to ensure that the small white squares always follow one diagonal while the large black squares always follow the other diagonal.

Sew the squares together across each row and then sew the rows to each other.

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Quilt Borders

For the first border I have used 2½ inch strips of pink tulip fabric. You will need two lengths of 64½ inches for the top and bottom of the quilt and two lengths of 68½ inches for the sides.

The second border is made using 1½ inch strips of green fabric. You will need two lengths of 68½ inches for the top and bottom of the quilt and two lengths of 70½ inches for the sides.

Finally for the third border I returned to the 2½ inch strips of pink tulip fabric. You will need two lengths of 70½ inches for the top and bottom of the quilt and two lengths of 74½ inches for the sides. Your quilt is now ready to be layered, quilted and bound to finish.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

About the Designer: Rose Smith was born and brought up

in Zambia in Africa. She moved to the UK when she was 18

and now lives in Shropshire, indulging her passion for

quilting and sewing. She has sewn all her life - ‘anything

that stood still long enough’ in the words of her children -

but now finds that patchwork and quilting have taken over

her life. She indulges this passion by posting patterns and

tutorials on her website for all to share.

www.ludlowquiltandsew.co.uk

LUDLOW QUILT AND SEW

Discover new and exciting projects to quilt and

sew each month with clear and easy to follow

instructions.

Visit our website and subscribe to Ludlow Quilt

and Sew’s free monthly newsletter now.

www.ludlowquiltandsew.co.uk

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Welcome to the world of Etsy! For those unfamiliar, Etsy is an online merchant showcase where everything is either handmade, a supply for making something handmade, or vintage.

It is a wonderfully eclectic group of people dedicated not only to their craft and your enjoyment of it, but to customer service. Through teaming and conversations, merchants support one another in the sale and promotion of their goods. Does this sound like you? Read on...

I started beading a number of years ago, and quickly found that I could only decorate a tree with so many ornaments and myself with so much jewelry.

At the encouragement of my friends and family, I went about selling at craft fairs and the major on-line auction site. I found that the fees greatly

impacted my bottom line. I was able to sell a few items here and there, but nothing major. I kept telling myself that this effort was more about meeting people and clearing out some inventory than anything else. Then, one sleepless evening, I found Etsy.

Please don't let me steer you wrong. I am a relative newbie on Etsy, and have only made sales to co-workers from my Etsy site. However, I am so excited about the site that I want to share its possibilities with you. So, BEFORE you set up an Etsy account, here are a few items to consider:

1) Setting up a store is very easy. You can choose PayPal or direct payments through Etsy (or both). I highly recommend both, so set up your PayPal to accept payments (free to set up, marginal fee for each sale you make).

How to Create and Promote a Shop on Etsy

From Amy Spock at www.etsy.com/au/shop/BeadsandThreadsbyAmy

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2) Think of a catchy store name that hints at your offerings.

3) Set up a light box with a light background and get some great shots of your merchandise.

4) Write descriptions of yourself, your shop, and each item you are listing (Etsy recommends at least 7 items to start).

5) Look at other shops and Etsy policies to get examples of shop policies-return policies, shipping policies, coupon code policies, etc. and write your own.

6) Log onto Etsy.com and start a store with the above information. Each item costs $.20 to list, and you will pay commission to Etsy on each sale (please read these policies carefully).

7) Join some teams to help you through this process. Teams have great suggestions on marketing, pricing, taking great pictures, and any number of things you'll have questions about. There are local and global teams to participate in. Find some teams with interests or locations

similar to yours to really harness the power of teams.

8) Look at all of Etsy's supports, blogs, and featured shop articles. Fantastic tips there!

9) Start small and grow. I started my store with 7 items, and I am up to 32. I have three shop sections now-beaded ornaments, quilting supplies, and custom embroidery. The sections are easy to set up, and Etsy is very user friendly.

10) Use Facebook and Twitter to promote your site to friends and family. It's not begging, it's advertising!!!

In all, I have found Etsy to be an incredibly easy, fun experience. I can't wait to grow my little business, and I am confident that Etsy is the place to do it.

About the Author: Visit my Etsy store at http://www.etsy.com/shop/BeadsandThreadsbyAmy. Keep up with me and my teams as we boldly go forward!

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Amy_Spock

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Project – Shoe Pouch

By Jody Anderson from www.BagMakingPatterns.com

This oh-so-practical little bag will fast become a firm favourite with all travellers. Make several for your

shoes to travel in, in your suitcase, and keep them protected, while stopping your clothes from getting

marked. This bag packs flat, and the side gussets allow expansion to fit your shoes. You’ll finish one in a

half hour, and be ready to make more!

Pouch Dimensions are 9½ inches wide x 13½ inches long.

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You Will Need:

½ metre ( ½ yard) fabric for outer bag

½ metre ( ½ yard) fabric for lining and contrast

strips

1 metre (1 yard) medium-weight fusible

interfacing

1 x 16 inch zip (it will be easier with a zip a bit

longer. Ours was about 20 inches and we

trimmed it after inserting it.)

Bag Construction:

Please read all instructions fully before beginning.

All measurements are in inches, and unless stated

otherwise, a ¼ inch seam allowance has been

used.

Referring to the attached Cutting Guide, carefully

cut the required bag pieces from the bag fabrics

and interfacing as required. Iron the interfacing

to the back of each piece as indicated in the

Cutting Guide.

Construction:

First make the strap. Using your iron, fold the

strap piece in half lengthways with wrong sides

together. Open out and fuse the strip of

interfacing centred over that creased line. Fold in

each side to meet the centre crease. Re-fold

again, so that there are 4 thicknesses of fabric.

Pin and topstitch down both sides.

Fold the two binding strips in half lengthways

with wrong sides together and press. Open out

and fold in one side only on each and press.

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Lay the outer strip face down on a

flat surface. First, fold in half

lengthways to mark the centre point.

Place a pin on that centre crease at

top and bottom ends.

Measure out 4½ inches from each

side of the centre point and mark

those points too. Measure in 4¾

inches from the side raw edges and

mark those points with pins as well.

As shown, the side is folded over at

the first (4½ inch mark) pins, and it is

then folded back on itself to create

the gusset before the top part (from

the 4¾ inch mark) is folded back over

for the front.

Fold both sides and make creases

with your hands.

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The lining is marked and folded in the

same way except that you place it right

side up on the flat surface, so that when it

is folded, the wrong side is facing out.

Keep the pins in place, marking those fold

points.

Now insert the zipper.

Lay the zipper face down on the right side

of one of the pouch sides, matching raw

edges.

Place the lining on top with right side

down and pin the three layers together.

Use your zipper foot to sew the zip

between the two fabric layers.

Open out and topstitch along that seam as

shown.

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To insert the other side of the zip, hold

the zipper edge up with the outer fabric

side facing you. Bring up the other end of

the outer fabric piece to meet the top of

the zipper tape as shown.

Fold the lining piece up behind to meet

the top of the zipper tape on the other

side, so the zip is again sandwiched

between the two fabric layers.

Pin and sew. Turn right sides out and

topstitch along that seam.

Use the pins as your guide again, and re-

fold the pouch.

Pin across top and bottom to secure the

folded gussets.

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Fold the strap in half and sew to the back of the

pouch, at the end where the zipper pull will be

when the zip is closed.

Now sew across both ends, through all layers.

Sew carefully over the zip at each end too

(making sure the zipper pull is in the middle of

the bag and not hanging out one end!)

Trim the zip ends.

Finally, add the contrast binding strips at each

end.

As shown, lay the right side of the binding on

the right side at the back of the pouch. Sew

along the crease you made to sew one side of

the binding to the pouch.

Turn over. Fold in the raw edges at the ends

and tuck under the seam allowance on the

binding strip, so that the binding piece folds

over the raw edges at the end of the pouch

neatly. Pin and topstitch carefully. Repeat for

the other end to finish.

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Shoe Pouch Cutting Guide

Cut the required number of each piece according

to the measurements on each diagram.

* Please note – all measurements are in inches.

Cut 1 outer fabric

Cut 1 lining/contrast fabric

Cut 2 medium-weight interfacing

(* This size pouch is good for up to a size 9-10 ladies

shoe. Add an inch or two to the 13½ inch side for

longer shoes, and add 2-4 inches to the 29 inch

measurement for wider shoes.)

Cut 1 lining/contrast fabric

Cut 1 medium-weight interfacing (2 inches wide)

Cut 2 lining/contrast fabric

(Adjust binding length too if you alter the pouch

panel measurement.)

Pouch Panel

Strap

Binding

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Compliments of the Season to Everyone:

May 2015 bring you all you could wish for you, your family and your friends.

I have spent a sojourn in Makassar, on the island of Sulawesi, Indonesia, staying in what was once an old Dutch home: high ceilings, wide verandas and expansive communal spaces leading to vast bedrooms, with double doors almost everywhere, beckoning across white-tiled floors.

In my room (which was really a suite it was so big), there is a collection of the most amazing antique carved furniture: The bedhead, the foot of the bed, the wardrobe, the ‘duchess’ (aka enormous dressing table with elaborate mirror), two upholstered chairs, and a stool from the dressing table, all carved to match.

Look at the detail of the elaborately-carved

upholstered bedhead!

Don’t let anyone fool you into thinking that King-sized beds are a modern ‘invention’; this bed was even bigger than that, more than three pillows wide!!

Here’s a shot of the foot of the bed…

Doodling in Makassar

By Pamela Davis of Patchwork Quint-essential

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It was so big I had trouble getting far enough away to get the full perspective!!

The furniture all sang with one fullsome voice: “Quilting Designs!!”

I became completely captivated by the flow and the detail. These photos do not really do justice to my experience, but they may help you to make your own quilting designs. Next article, I will elaborate on my methods of translating doodles into quilting………

For now, run your eyes over the carving on the wardrobe:

I should add that the ceilings were really high…… (today’s standard here is 3.7m) and although the room was vast, it was filled with VERY LARGE furniture, so it was quite a challenge to get any kind of perspective on it.

Here is the side of the wardrobe, in a little more detail:

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So here is my challenge: Find some scrap paper and a pencil, and doodle, using these photos as your inspiration……….. (You should be able to enlarge the detail with the wizardry of modern technology.) Then try doodling with your sewing machine……. Enjoy!!

Pamela Davis Patchwork Quint-essential [email protected]

Don't keep this Online Quilt Magazine

all to yourself –share it with your

Quilting Guilds and Friends!

Don't wait - Invite them to

www.OnlineQuiltMagazine.com to

Subscribe and receive each New Issue

as soon as it's Published!

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"Patchwork Loves Embroidery " by Gail Pan

You'll love this book by talented Australian, Gail

Pan.

I always enjoy some hand sewing and love to

combine this with my quilts and wallhangings.

In this book Gail shows us 15 designs for a variety

of quilted projects - from table runners,

wallhangings, bags and covers for little books to

pincushions.

Her simple pictures are for all levels of quilters

and embroiderers and show how embellishment

of our work can be easily done to create some

lovely articles for the home or for gifts.

Basic instructions on threads, needles and fabrics

are included as well as ways of transferring the

designs from the full-sized pattern sheets.

Book Reviews

By Annette Mira-Bateman from www.QuiltBlockoftheMonthClub.com

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The motifs are inspired by nature - flowers, birds

and cottages all combine to enhance the

patchwork. Gail encourages us to mix and match

the designs if you wish.

It's amazing how simple projects can be

transformed into something really striking by the

addition of a little handwork.

"Patchwork Loves Embroidery" is published by

Martingale and is available through your local

craft book shop or online from:

www.ShopMartingale.com

(Photos courtesy of Martingale)

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"Cups and Saucers - Paper Pieced Kitchen

Designs" by Maaike Bakker

Back by popular demand, this book has over 40

block patterns for 10 projects - all re-made in

completely new fabrics.

Cups and saucers, plates and mugs, jars, boxes,

teapots, bowls and even vegetables - all can be

made using the paper piecing method. All

instructions are clearly set out, with good photos

to help.

The projects are delightful. Alternative

colourways are suggested. Step-by-step guides

will enable any quilter to make wall hangings or

table decorations with these whimsical patterns.

The kitchen or family room will be the envy of

your friends if you add a few of these projects.

There are placemats, table runners and kitchen

dresser-type wall hangings. Almost all are

pictured using alternative fabrics. You'll be

inspired to redecorate your kitchen after looking

at this book.

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Changing a few elements of the design and using

different colours will enable you to move with the

seasons - Christmas themes, Halloween perhaps,

Spring etc.

Vegetables and crockery are all used to great

effect.

The 40 block patterns and quilting designs at the

end of the book, combined with very clear

instructions and photos make this book a must

for any quilter seeking inspiration for something

different.

Maaike Bakker was born in the Netherlands and

has taught classes internationally.

"Cups and Saucers - Paper Pieced Kitchen

Designs" is published by Martingale and is

available through your local craft book shop or

online from: www.ShopMartingale.com

(Photos courtesy of Martingale)

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Ingredients:

300g (10½ oz) fresh ricotta cheese

2/3 cup coarsely grated mozzarella cheese

½ cup finely grated parmesan cheese

2 eggs, lightly beaten

4 sheets frozen puff pastry, partially thawed

Method:

Place ricotta in a bowl. Using a fork, mash until

almost smooth. Add mozzarella and parmesan.

Season with salt and pepper. Stir to combine. Add

half the egg. Stir to combine.

Preheat oven to 220°C/200°C (400 F/425 F) fan-

forced. Line 2 baking trays with baking paper.

Using a 10cm/4 inch round cutter, cut 5 rounds

from each pastry sheet. Brush edge of rounds

with egg. Spoon 1 level tablespoon mixture onto

centre of each round. Spread to a 5cm/2 inch log.

Fold up 2 sides of pastry to enclose log. Pinch to

seal. Twist ends to form points. Place on

prepared trays. Brush with remaining egg.

Recipe Corner – Three-Cheese Pastizzi

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Bake for 20 to 25 minutes or until golden and

puffed. Stand for 4 minutes before serving.

Notes

Tip: You could use crumbled feta cheese instead

of parmesan.

Freezer tips:

To freeze: Place uncooked pastizzi on a baking

tray lined with baking paper. Freeze for 2 to 3

hours or until firm. Transfer to a large snaplock

bag. Expel air from bag. Freeze for up to 1 month.

To reheat: Preheat oven to 220C/200C (400 F/

425 F) fan-forced. Line 2 baking trays with baking

paper. Place frozen pastizzi on prepared trays.

Bake for 25 minutes or until golden and heated

through.

https://www.flickr.com/groups/ecoquilters

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This month we continue our regular segment of

“Show and Tell” quilts made by our Online Quilt

Magazine Readers. It’s been another busy month

too!

We will include them as long as you can send

them to us, and that way we can all share in the

wealth of creativity and inspiration abundant

within our quilting community.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

“Here is the almost finished version of a lap quilt I

made for a special friend. She has 4 beautiful Gr.

Pyrennes dogs so each dog collar has the dog’s

name on it for the quilt.

She loved it so much she did not want to use it,

but I insisted it was for use when reading during

those winter nights! It is all hand sewn and hand

quilted. I didn’t use a machine for any of it.”

- Intha R., USA

Reader “Show and Tell”

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And Jacqueline B from Belgium sent in her latest

bag and Christmas wallhanging.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

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“I recently finished a Christmas present for a

friend using layer cakes and making my own

pattern. Here is a photo of the finished product. It

ended up fitting the top of a king size bed. Quite

an undertaking but I love making gifts. I chose to

do stitch in the ditch to quilt it, it was the easiest

since I do not have a long arm machine.”

- Linda M., USA

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Yolande J. from Australia made this fab bag in

Christmas colours too…

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“Just thought I would show you a photo of the

Redwork table runner that I made to send to my

brother-in-law & his wife in America. The fabrics

all show patterns of Australian wildflowers.”

(Pattern from

www.QuiltBlockoftheMonthClub.com )

- Joan C., Australia

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

“I wanted to show you my latest work – a Tester

bag for Sara @ SewSweetness in Chicago in USA “

- Peta L., Australia

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

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“Attached is a couple of pics of my 1st ever Quilt. I

made it for my son when he got his big-boy bed in

2005.

- Katharina Z., Rotterdam, NY, USA

Keep them coming – We’ve had some

lovely quilts and bags this month!

Please send in your “Show and Tell”

Photos to me at:

[email protected]

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This week's block is one of a series of cross

blocks. It is fairly easy to piece together and has

a great effect when completed.

To make this 12 inch block as shown, you will

need 5 different fabrics, and once you have

rotary cut the pieces according to the Cutting

Diagram, you can piece them together as shown.

Block of the Month

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Today’s Tips:

1. Ensure your binding goes on smoothly by

running a row of stitching around the edge of the

quilt to hold all three layers together, before you

attach it.

2. Make your quilt rod / hanging sleeve from a

patchwork of all the fabric used in your quilt.

Then, if you need to repair anything on the quilt

top later, you will have a selection of the right

fabrics to use.

3. When measuring a quilt for borders, take

several measurements lengthwise and crosswise -

especially going through the quilt centre. You will

need to square up your quilt at this point so your

borders will sit properly when they are joined.

--------------------------------------------------------------

And the following tips are perfect for the New

Year…!

* Park your ironing board as far away as possible from your machine and become obsessive about pressing every single seam. This will keep you moving instead of sitting in one place too long. (I have decided this saves time on having to go do some exercise - why walk around the block,( or go out in the cold for the gym) when you can make 20 trips to the ironing board...???) * Make a list of your unfinished projects (UFOs). Finish the ones that still hold your interest. Then give away, trade, sell, or throw away the rest. (This tip is a gem - the peace of mind from not always having that niggling feeling that there's something still to finish before you can get fully into the next project is worth it!!) I think this is something to do with "bright shiny objects" and procrastination...

We’re always on the lookout for

great Hints and Tips to share. If you

have any, please send them to

[email protected],

as we’d love to include yours!

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YES, We Want to Hear From

You!

As our Online Magazine continues to grow each

month, we need your feedback in order for us to

continue to improve our publication for you.

• We want to know how you liked it.

• We want to know the topics you're

interested in.

• We want to know if you have any

suggestions, Hints or Tips of your own that

you'd like included, or if you know anyone

we should include a story on!

Please send me an email with your Testimonial,

Tip, Suggestion, “Show and Tell” Quilt or

Enhancement – I'd love to hear from you!

Send all emails to:

[email protected]

If you'd like to submit an Article, or a Project for

Publication, or take advantage of our Very Very

Reasonable Advertising Rates, please email details

or queries to Jody at

[email protected]

To subscribe to our Monthly Online Quilt

Magazine, please go to

www.OnlineQuiltMagazine.com and

register so you don’t miss another issue!

"Quilt-y" Quotes…

* Quilting is a gift you give yourself. * Quilting is cheap therapy. * Quilters know all the angles.