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Premium Online Quilt Magazine – Vol. 6 No. 1
© Online Quilt Magazine.com All Rights Reserved P a g e | 1
Online Quilt Magazine.com
Premium Issue Vol.6 No.1 – January 2015
New Year’s
Resolutions
– With A
Twist!
New Project
- Scrappy
Star Quilt
How To Get
Organised on a
Budget
How To Save
Time Cutting
Patches
Easy Four
Patch
Quilt
Pattern
Premium Online Quilt Magazine – Vol. 6 No. 1
© Online Quilt Magazine.com All Rights Reserved P a g e | 2
Online Quilt Magazine Table of Contents
New Year's Resolutions - With a TWIST…….…………………………………………………...………………….…..……………………………….………………………………..……….. Page 4
Getting Organized on a Budget …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….
Common Quilting Questions Answered ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………..
PROJECT – Scrappy Star Quilt…………………………………………….………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….
Page 7
Page 10
Page 17
Saving Time When Cutting Lots of Shapes for Making a Quilt ………………………………………………………………………..…………………………….…………………….. Page 26
Hints and Tips From Brannie …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….…………………………………………. Page 29
What’s New from The Fat Quarter Shop ……………………………………..…………………………….………………………………………………………………………..………………. Page 31
PROJECT – Easy Four Patch Quilt Pattern …………………………..………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… Page 34
How to Create and Promote a Shop on Etsy ..………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………. Page 38
PROJECT – Shoe Pouch …………………………………….….……..…………………………………………………………………………………….…………………………………………………. Page 40
Doodling in Makassar …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………. Page 47
Book Reviews ……………………………………………………………………………………………………….……………..…………………………………..………….……………………………...
Recipe Corner –Three-Cheese Pastizzi .………………………………….…………………………………………..…..…………………………………………………………………………….
Reader “Show and Tell” …………………………………………………………………………………..…………………………….……………………………….………………………………...…
Page 50
Page 54
Page 56
BLOCK OF THE MONTH –Cross 13 Block ……..………….………………………………………………………...……………........................................................................ Page 61
Today's Tips.................................................................................................................................................................................................................. Page 64
YES – We Want To hear From You .............................................................................................................................................................................. Page 65
Cover – Scrappy Star Quilt
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Letter from the Editor
Jody Anderson
Hi!
Happy New Year! We hope you’ve all survived the holiday season happy and healthy and all refreshed
and ready to get stuck into 2015!! I had a big sewing room clean up before Christmas, and now that I can
see the floor again (yes – I know!), I’ve also rediscovered all sorts of projects that I’d put aside last year.
I’m quite excited to get stuck into some of them again now, and I love this time of new beginnings (and
re-starts), and creative ideas that seem to flow at this time of year.
New Year’s resolutions with a twist (page 4) seem quite do-able to me, and this issue we have all sorts of
great ideas for saving time or money, as well as two new quilt projects and a bag pattern for you to try.
Your favourites are back – new fabrics, more books, recipes, tips and of course, Brannie!
We have all sorts of great things planned to share with you this year too, so grab a cuppa, sit down and
have a read through, and Watch This Space!
Jody
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Have you given up making resolutions?
Do you think they are hokey?
You know you won't follow through anyways so
why even try to make one?
You can hardly make 30 days. And really what
needs 365 days of fixing?
I looked it up and here is what I found:
resolution
Pronunciation: \Ìre-zY-Èlü-shYn\
Function: noun
1: the act or process of resolving: as a: the act of
analyzing a complex notion into simpler ones b:
the act of answering :solving c: the act of
determining
I have not made a resolution in two years, not
with a pen and paper anyway. I secretly thought
of things and left them in my mind, knowing it
wouldn't get done and so this year I am trying
something a bit different and--I Triple Dare you to
try it this! --Instead of one resolution I am going
to make 12 resolutions. Now how daring is that!!
Here is the twist.
A new one for every month of this year; Yes I am
going to committed to something new each
month.
I do believe there is truth in the fact that you can
change a habit in just 21 days. So if I can do
New Year's Resolutions - With a TWIST
By Kimberly Schick-Puddicombe
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something for 30 days it should be easier to flow
into the rest of the year.
Just think I get to start each month fresh, no guilt
about what did or didn't happen with the
knowledge that I will work through the resolution
every month both personally and professionally.
Here's what happens if you don't make a
resolution!
Did you know that by not making resolutions you
are not allowing yourself to have the most
fulfilling life? What you might be asking yourself?
Well by not writing down goals - which is vital to
all businesses so why would it not be vital for
your personal life as well; by not finishing or
starting you are instead procrastinating over the
scary potential or the outcome.
Don't believe me, but ask yourself this, have you
taken a class in which you have not done
anything with the new knowledge you have
gained, but you know of at least three things
during that class that you said "yes" this is easy?
Or have you started a project and never finished
it completely? Well I have a quilt I started 2 years
ago and I am going to get it finished.
Next, ask yourself how many times you have
thought about that project. I couldn’t tell you
how many times I have looked at my son's bed
and wished the quilt was finished. The time I have
spent over the year thinking and wishing I had
completed the project would have probably been
3 times the amount of time it will actually take
me to finish the project. That is where the stress
and frustration come in.
Let's make it EASY!
I hear you already, If you can't make one
resolution how do you find 12 different
resolutions? Here is the easy part, (I never said I
was going to make them so hard that I would
dread doing them.)
You have to write them down - that is vital.
Premium Online Quilt Magazine – Vol. 6 No. 1
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Come up with a few ideas or think about what
frustrates you through the year and try to pick a
month that it works best to focus resolving that
goal.
My business coach always tells me to "15
Minute" my way along. And it works. I bought a
timer and commit to doing projects '15 minutes'
at a time and then move on to the next item.
Happy New Year!
About the Author: Kimberly Schick-Puddicombe is the
Founder and Publisher of Moms, Dads and Kids. & The Little
Black Book for busy families TM. Her transition from full
time marketer with a demanding career to full time mom
with 2 fabulously active kids had her on a constant search
for things to keep them occupied so she launched Alberta
fun finder website http://www.momsdadsandkids.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kimberly_Schick-
Puddicombe
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You're a do-it-yourself kind of person. You want
to get organized. You have the motivation; the
energy; the plan... but you haven't the cash.
Well, I'm here to tell you that you can still
accomplish your goal without investing in costly
supplies. With a little elbow grease and/or
planning, we can find creative and inexpensive
solutions.
One time I purchased an old green sewing cabinet
for a small amount of money. I stripped the green
paint and found that the wood was oak, and it
also had brass hinges. Once I re-stained the oak
and polished the brass, I was thrilled with the
results.
I've also purchased old water-stained dressers,
repainted the, purchased new knobs, and I've got
the shabby chic look!
Let's say you need a good used file cabinet.
Where would you find one? You could drive from
yard sale to yard sale, or just go directly to a
source.
By searching the Yellow Pages or the internet,
you can find a used office furniture warehouse in
your area. I've purchased everything from used
cubicles, task lighting, desks, file cabinets,
bookshelves, task chairs... and all I needed was
patience, cash, a pick-up truck, and a good pair of
walking shoes. I would rather buy a used, dented
heavy-duty file cabinet, than purchase a new,
poor quality file cabinet.
Getting Organized on a Budget
By Linda Griffith from www.organisedoption.com
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One year, a local company went out of business
and advertised that they were selling off their
furniture. On the day of the sale, I arrived at 5:00
a.m. Although I found myself in a long line of
other savvy buyers, there was more than enough
inventory for everyone.
I purchased a complete U-shaped cubicle, file
drawers, overhead shelves and task lighting for
only $60 in cash. I didn't expect perfection in the
furniture; but it was functional, heavy-duty and
affordable.
Other opportunities exist when model home
furniture companies sell off their existing
inventory. Again, it's a cash and carry business,
but the furniture is mostly unblemished and like
new.
I also recommend building material warehouses.
These warehouses receive daily truckloads, and
inventory comes from many sources:
Manufacturer over-runs, discontinued items,
manufacturer mistakes, general contractor's
purchasing too much of a product. All of the
inventory is new, not used or damaged.
Image from Pinterest yummymummyclub.ca
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Whenever a client has needed inexpensive
storage solutions for their sewing room, I've gone
to my local warehouse and purchased a kitchen
pantry. They come in a variety of wood and stain,
and most items are half off retail.
One time I bought a beautiful maple cabinet and
since one of the drawer fronts wasn't screwed in
perfectly, I got it for less than half off retail. Keep
in mind, however, that at these types of
warehouses, merchandise is sold as is, and all
sales are final.
So, put on your thinking cap and get creative. It
takes time to research and squeeze through the
aisles of these huge warehouses but, if you're on
a budget, it's a priceless investment.
About the Author: Linda Griffith, owner of The Organized
Option, is a Professional Organizer & Speaker based in
Phoenix. The creator of the Messiest Sewing Room Contest
TM, Linda has helped dozens of sewers, crafters and home-
based business owners to achieve a clutter-free, efficient
work area and regain their lost energy. A national speaker,
Linda's presentations blend practical how-to organizing tips
with motivation and humor. She's also a regular columnist
in the international publication, The Country Register. Linda
can be reached at 480-755-3991, or through her website,
http://www.organizedoption.com where you can sign up
for her free monthly e-newsletter.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Linda_Griffith
Keep up to Date with What’s Happening on our
Facebook Page – Do You Love Quilting Too?
Bonus blocks, hints and tips added all the time!!
http://www.facebook.com/#!/pages/Do-
You-Love-Quilting-Too/271888039492644
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This month, we’re continuing a series of everyday
quilting questions that have been answered by
Leah.
Question: This is a lovely design, and one I would
like to try. I have yet to attempt any kind of
travel stitching, however. Doesn't it make your
quilt rather stiff? Also wouldn't it show up rather
badly on the back? Just trying to picture
everything...I suppose I should just go find some
scraps and try it. :)
Yep, the absolute best way to know how a design
will feel on a quilt is to quilt it. Just try it out and
see if you like it! But there's one extra thing to
keep in mind:
Scale!
If you stitch Paisley, or any Pivoting Design on a
super small scale and add extra travel stitching, it
will look something like this:
Quilting Question Answers
By Leah Day from www.FreeMotionQuilting.blogspot.com.au
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Here's the back of this exact same piece:
Does it look bad to you? This is really down to
personal opinion and how you want to quilt your
quilts and how you want them to look finished.
Cross this with the large scale Paisley I quilted in
the video for this week:
Here's the back of this quilt:
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There is a big difference between the large scale
and small scale, and not just in the feel of the
quilt. The goddess face is quilted on a very small
scale so it was designed to be super stiff.
The Batik Beauty quilt designed to be soft, but
yes, there is a difference in feel between Paisley
and Loopy Line or Circuit Board you see stitched
in blocks nearby.
So ultimately if you want a soft quilt and are
worried about stiffness, just make sure to keep
the quilting lines far apart (at least 1/2 inch). No
design will automatically make your quilt stiff so
long as you watch the closeness of the lines of
quilting.
Of course, a big factor in the stiffness of your
quilts comes from the batting in the middle.
More than anything else, the batting will
determine how your quilt drapes and feels on a
bed or hangs on a wall.
Question: I know that you like to use a higher
loft poly batting and you pretty much stick to
one kind. You probably have told us before, but
what brand do you use? What do you like about
this batting compared with others of this same
type?
Personally the whole loft thing with batting has
always confused the heck out of me. I can go to
Walmart and buy a "low loft" batting that is 1/2"
thick. I can then go to a quilt shop and buy a
package of high loft Quilter's Dream Poly and it's
not even 1/4" thick. Talk about confusing!
Loft is meant to describe the density or weight of
the quilt and the warmth you can expect to get
from it. A high loft will be warmer than a low loft
batting. That is pretty simple. But different
batting manufactures create batting in different
ways, so you can end up with a lot of different
thicknesses.
As for what I personally use: I use Quilter's
Dream Poly.
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That is the only batting I use because it's reliable,
it stitches wonderfully, hangs well on a wall, and
looks nice on a bed. What more could I want?!
As for thickness, or loft, I vary between the three:
low (request), mid loft (select) and high loft
(deluxe).
When I want to make a light bed quilt for use in
the summer, I use the Request thickness. For
everything else, I use Select loft. It's kind of my
default and the thickness I use the most overall.
For trapunto, the first layer is always with the
Deluxe thickness, the second layer with Select.
I like this batting because it's very thin. Even the
highest loft is less than 1/4" thick, which means
your quilt will never be big and bulky. The thicker
your batting, the harder it will be to squish that
quilt under the arm of your machine, so it really
does help to use thinner battings.
It might seem really boring or weird that I only
use one type of batting, but it's actually just
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another thing I do to eliminate uncertainty from
my quilts.
I don't like unpredictability. I want to know how
my quilt will finish and I want reliable results. I
don't want to re-invent the wheel every time I sit
down to quilt, and using different batting when I
have a brand I know and trust just seems like a
silly waste of time.
Of course it's good to shop around and try
different things, but once you figure out what you
like, do yourself a favor and stick with it! It will
save a lot of headaches and hair pulling later!
Now speaking of headaches, I had a really
annoying glitch start up with my machine
yesterday. I was working on the goddess face
above, a UFO that's been sitting on my floor for 6
months, and my thread started to act funny.
Here's what would happen: I'd be stitching along
just fine and then suddenly it was like too much
thread would be pulled down into the quilt,
creating a birds nest on the back and usually
breaking the thread on top.
Watching the thread feed into the machine, it
was doing something similar to what Pat
described a few weeks ago: looping up and
twisting as it entered the machine.
Now this is really obnoxious. It would happen
unpredictably, but consistently every 2-3 inches
of fill, which meant I was stopping to pick out the
birds nest, hide threads, and restart stitching over
and over as I filled the quilt block. It made the
whole process take much longer and honestly
ruined the fun of quilting because I was gritting
my teeth in frustration.
Sometimes it helps to just walk away from your
machine when stuff like this happens. Maybe it's
the alignment of the planets, the weather, the
feeling in the air, who knows what, that causes
machines to suddenly act funny.
But always remember that problems that
suddenly appear usually do so for a reason.
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Here's how I troubleshooted the problem by
changing 1 thing at a time, continuing to quilt,
and seeing if the problem persisted:
1. Change Needle - Most issues with thread stem
from a bent or broken needle. Even if you JUST
changed the needle YESTERDAY that could still be
the culprit. Needles are mass produced and
there's no guarantee you won't get a bent needle
straight out of the package.
Whenever a needle makes trouble in my
machine, particularly when I've just recently
changed it, I always remember the first night
James was born. I'd cleaned him up, put a tiny
diaper on his little body and we'd all snuggled
down in bed for the night when he suddenly
began to cry. Josh and I struggled to figure out
what was wrong and why he was crying.
Josh asked about his diaper and I shouted "I've
just changed him!" I remember refusing to check
because, in my brain, that couldn't possibly be it.
Turns out, he'd gone poo again and wasn't happy
about it. It's always been a lesson to me to
remember to gone on ahead and check and
change the most obvious thing, even if they've
just been checked and changed a minute ago.
While this definitely improved the thread nesting
issue, it didn't fix it completely.
2. Moved the spool - I was using a huge spool of
black thread for this quilt and I figured it might
not be feeding into the machine properly. I
moved it off the spool stand and further over on
the table to give it more distance from the
machine.
This also helped, but didn't totally fix the
problem. Then I thought back to when the
problem started.
3. Mental recall - I was using a huge 5000 meter
cone of black thread when the problem started. I
had not had the problem when using the smaller
spool of white thread. Ding!
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Obviously there is either a problem with how that
spool was wound during manufacturing, or a
problem with how my machine is feeding it into
the machine.
Regardless, I didn't feel like switching spools right
at that moment, so I kept working with it. Had
this been a more stressful day, I might have
chucked it in the trash never to be used again. It
obviously has issues and I'm not the type to
accept thread breaks every 2 inches.
As I said before, I don't like unpredictability. I
want to sit down at my machine and have it quilt
through space like butter, filling with no problem
until the bobbin runs out.
Unfortunately it doesn't always work out that
way, even for me! Just remember if your
machine gives you fits this week to stay calm and
carefully troubleshoot the problem by changing
one thing at a time. The culprit behind the issue
will soon become clear.
Let's go quilt,
Leah
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Project – Scrappy Star Quilt
By Jody Anderson from www.QuiltBlockoftheMonthClub.com
What do you do with those left over Jelly Roll strips? That’s easy – turn them into our cute-as-a-button
scrappy star quilt! This quilt is quick and easy to make, and uses up ALL those scraps too.
This quilt measures
62 inches x 62
inches square.
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You Will Need:
16 x 2½ inch Jelly Roll strips in darker/brighter
colours (We had leftovers from a roll called
“Martinique” by 3 Sisters for Moda).
8 x 2½ inch Jelly Roll strips in paler/duller colours
3 metres (3 ½ yards) plain fabric for the quilt top
and binding (We used a stone colour that was 44
inches wide.)
Backing fabric measuring at least 68 x 68 inches
square
Batting measuring at least 68 x 68 inches square
Star Blocks:
There are 16 star blocks in this quilt. Each block
has a different bold fabric for the front of the
star, and the background star points are from the
paler strips. You will get 2 blocks from each paler
jelly roll strip. Cut carefully, and you will use your
solid fabric and strips with very little waste.
Cut:
From each of the 16 darker jelly roll strips, cut 4
strips 7½ inches long, for the 16 different stars.
From each of the 8 paler jelly roll strips, cut 8
strips 5½ inches long. This will use the entire
strip, and be sufficient for the background points
of 2 stars.
From the plain fabric, cut 128 squares measuring
2½ inches x 2½ inches.
From the plain fabric, cut 64 squares measuring
5½ x 5½ inches.
Sort out and pair up your jelly roll strips – one set
of 4 longer darker strips with a set of 4 paler
strips for each block.
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You will use the small plain squares to
snowball the corners of the jelly roll
strips.
Fold each square in half with wrong
sides together and press as shown.
Refer to the picture for the direction of
these snowballed squares.
Lay the plain square at the top of each
jelly roll strip – the diagonal line runs
from bottom left to top right on the
long strips, and on the shorter paler
strips, the line starts at the top left
corner, and runs down to bottom right.
Align the top and side edges, open out
the fold and sew on the diagonal crease.
You will be able to chain piece these.
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Use the ¼ inch foot on your sewing
machine as a guide, and sew a second row
on the inside of the first, as shown.
Carefully cut between the seams (it will be
about an 1/8th inch seam allowance on
each side).
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Open out and press well.
Put the half square triangles aside in
pairs, for the outer border.
Sew one paler strip to the bottom of a
5½ inch plain fabric square.
Tip - When you sew these strips on,
align the top of the snowballed strip
with the edge of the larger square – this
will give you neat edges with an even ¼
inch seam allowance around each star.
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Then add the longer strip to the left
hand side as shown.
Make four of these blocks with the
same fabrics, and arrange to form the
star block as shown.
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Sew together in pairs, taking care to
press so the seams sit in opposite
directions, then join the halves together
to complete the block.
Press well.
Make 16 blocks.
Arrange the 16 blocks in a 4 x 4 layout and piece the blocks together in rows, then sew the rows
together for the centre of your quilt top. Again, press seams in opposite directions in alternate
rows, and your joining seams will sit together nicely.
Borders:
The first border is just from the plain fabric. Measure your quilt top first, to double check the
lengths. You will need to join strips for the required lengths.
We cut 2 strips 2½ inches wide and 56 inches long for the sides. Sew to the quilt top and press well.
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For top and bottom, we cut strips 2½ inches wide and 60½ inches long. Join them and press.
The second border is pieced from the half square triangles you made when you pieced the blocks.
Sew the half square triangles together in matching pairs as pictured, then join the pairs together until
you have 4 strips of 16 pairs. Press well.
As these strips are arranged to sit off centre along the borders, you will need to add a short strip of the
plain fabric to the end of each strip. Cut these strips 2 inches wide and about 8 inches for the sides,
and 10 inches for the top and bottom.
Refer to the photo of the finished quilt above for placement help. We chose to have our border
pointing ‘in’, so the plain strip was added to the lower end for the left hand border. Pin the border strip
in place and start sewing from the pieced squares end. Trim away the excess plain fabric at the other
end when you have finished.
The plain strip was added to the top for the right hand border. Again, pin and start sewing from the
pieced squares end, and trim the excess fabric from the plain end when finished.
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Cut two 2 inch squares from the plain fabric for the top and bottom borders. For the top, start with one 2
inch plain square, then add your pieced strip, and finally the plain 10 inch strip to the end. Press and sew
to the top border, starting with the plain square at the top left corner. Trim the excess fabric from the end
of the plain strip.
Repeat for the bottom border. Refer to the photo above, and add the plain strip, then the pieced strip and
the remaining 2 inch square. Pin and sew from the square end.
Finishing:
Lay the backing face down on a large flat surface. Smooth the batting on top, and then lay your quilt top on
top of that, facing up. Smooth all layers and pin or thread baste.
The design on this quilt allows for some great quilting options in the plain fabric squares between the stars.
You may like to add feathers or other motifs, or use a more complicated filler design.
From the remaining plain fabric, cut sufficient 2¼ inch strips for the binding. Join the 2¼ inch binding strips
with 45 degree seams. Press the ¼ inch seams open, then fold the strip in half, right sides out and press.
Join the binding to the right side of the quilt edge with a quarter inch seam, mitring each corner as you go.
Turn the folded edge of the binding to the back and slip stitch it in place with thread that matches the
binding to finish.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
For More Great Quilt Patterns, Visit www.QuiltBlockoftheMonthClub.com
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Even a quilt we may call "our labor of love" is
more cherished when quicker methods of
construction can be employed to cut down on the
time required to complete our beauty.
Many a quilt idea has been shelved because the
quiltmaker dreaded the time-consuming job of
cutting the pieces or shapes individually with
templates before the design could grow into a
thing of beauty.
Here is a great time-saver for cutting a large
number of identical pieces for a traditional design
or for cutting geometric shapes that will be
combined with strip-pieced sections. The secret is
using the rotary cutter to cut fabric strips from
which basic template shapes are then cut,
meaning that usually no more than two sides of
the shape remain to be cut. By stacking several
strips with one marked strip on top, the cutting
job goes very fast. This method will save fabric
and enable you to easily calculate fabric yardage.
Make a stiff template of the desired patch,
adding ¼ inch seam allowances on all sides. On
the template mark the fabric grain line, the
pattern-piece letter, and the fabric color to be
Saving Time When Cutting Lots of Shapes for
Making a Quilt
By Candy Hamilton from http://www.northwestembroidery.com/
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used. Cut the fabric yardage at one end on the
straight crosswise grain. Fold once down the
center and pin the two layers together.
To determine the strip width, place the template
on the cut edge of the fabric following the grain
line, then measure and mark the height of the
template across the folded fabric in several
places. Place the folded fabric on the cutting mat
and cut one strip on the markings, using a thick
acrylic ruler as a guide for a rotary cutter.
Open out the fabric strip and place the template
across the strip, matching the arrow on the
template and the fabric grain line. Mark only the
edges of the template that fall within the strip,
not the edges that fall on the strip edges. Patches
may touch one another, sharing one cutting line,
thus saving fabric and cutting time. Depending on
the number of patches required for a quilt, one
marked strip might be sufficient, or you could
need several marked strips.
The marked strip will be used as a cutting guide.
Place it over the straight cut end of the folded
fabric and rotary cut subsequent strips using the
acrylic ruler on the edge of the marked strip. Be
careful that you are not trimming threads from
the cutting-guide strip because that will make all
of the strips inaccurate.
Stack four to eight open strips right sides up with
the marked strip on top. Pin within the markings
for each patch, not across a line. If some shapes
are to be cut in reverse, alternate the strips right
side up and right side down in the stack so that
shapes will be cut in pairs. (Adjust the number of
"up" strips and "down" strips as necessary to end
up with the required number of patches.)
Place the acrylic ruler on the straight marked
lines that cross the strip (shown on the drawings
as heavier lines), then rotary cut those lines. After
the long straight lines are cut, sharp scissors then
can be used to cut curves and short lines. It is
most efficient to rotary cut long lines first and use
scissors on the other lines last.
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The presser foot on many sewing machines
measures ¼ inch from the needle to the right
edge and can be used as a seam gauge for
machine sewing these shapes. If needed, a gauge
can be marked on the throat plate of the machine
by placing a piece of masking tape ¼ inch from
the needle when it is in the down position.
For hand sewing, the seam lines can be marked
on the wrong side of each patch. An easy way to
do this is to make a second, stiff template of the
shape without the seam allowances. Center it on
the wrong side of the cut patch, and trace around
it with a pencil.
When marking patches, a sandpaper surface will
keep the patch from slipping. If you are an
experienced piecer and can gauge the ¼ inch
seam allowance by eye, you can mark a pencil dot
in the comers where the sewing lines will meet
and sew from dot to dot.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Candy_R_Hamilton
Join The Club!
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My Quilty-Mum bought me some new nunkies - you know those biscuit things. They are round and taste much the same as the last lot, but my Mum said, "Look, it's got your name on the packet! It says 'Furball'." She also read out "Furball Reduction System". So what! I've already got one of those. I just sick them up! We've had some very hot weather lately and my Quilty-Mum found it too hot to sew! That's how hot it was! I kept lying down flat on the hard floor to try to keep cooler. She decided to help me by giving me a bath! Now my predecessors may have liked swimming, but I haven't had lessons and I wasn't too keen. I can't get wet to the skin, of course - I'm too thick
- FUR that is, but I was pretty wet by the time she'd sloshed water all over. She then squeezed me dry and left me in the laundry to fluff up. I felt quite cool afterwards! Funny that! It gets light in the mornings earlier now as well, so I'm ready for breakfast and a run around earlier too. From bed my Mum keeps yelling numbers at me and groaning. Like: "Four twenty two... Ahhhhhhh.... Go away!" so I come and go a few times - often at great speed. "It's five twelve! Too early!" I sharpen my claws vigorously and loudly on my lovely scratching post, then have a gallop on the soft floor ending up with a leap onto Mum's tummy, across the bed and off again! Wheeee!
Hints and Tips From Brannie
By "Brannie" Mira-Bateman
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It's a cool time of day, I'm raring to go and I know she's awake. "Five thirty one! Noooo! Not yet!" More groaning. She said there are Little People coming soon, so they might like to play early in the morning. As long as they don't shout numbers at me I'll be right. They can run around the house with me and Mum can sleep in. That's a great idea!
Love Brannie,
the Quilt Block of the Month Club Cat!
FREE block patterns at http://627handworks.com/
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We're pleased to be able to bring you a selection
each month of the Newest Fabric Releases and
the new season fabric "must haves".
MISTLETOE LANE BY BUNNY HILL DESIGNS FOR
MODA FABRICS
It’s time to hang the mistletoe, and surround
yourself with family and friends! The Mistletoe
Lane collection is filled with soft pinks,
evergreens, and winterberry reds that’s perfect
for winter!
Available in yardage and all precut goods
including our exclusive Jolly Bar precut.
Check it out at:
http://www.fatquartershop.com/moda-
fabric/mistletoe-lane-bunny-hill-designs-moda-
fabrics
What's New from The Fat Quarter Shop
From Kimberly Jolly at www.FatQuarterShop.com
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HELLO, BEAR BY BONNIE CHRISTINE FOR ART
GALLERY FABRICS
Named after Bonnie’s son, Bear, this collection
inspires all to see the outdoors through a new set
of eyes. Illustrated with woodsy tones, Hello,
Bear invites all explores to listen to the playful
sounds of the wilderness. Available in yardage,
precut goods, and an exclusive Bear Hug Quilt Kit.
See More at:
http://www.fatquartershop.com/art-gallery-
fabrics/hello-bear-bonnie-christine-art-gallery-
fabrics
MILK, SUGAR & FLOWER BY ELEA LUTZ FOR PENNY
ROSE FABRICS
Surround yourself with all things sweet with the
Milk, Sugar & Flower collection. Available in all
precut goods and yardage.
View this Range at:
http://www.fatquartershop.com/milk-sugar-and-
flower-fat-quarter-bundle
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SUMMER COTTAGE BY PLANTED SEED DESIGNS FOR
RED ROOSTER FABRICS
Summer Cottage has all things summer in mind.
From the bright, clear colors of green grass, blue
skies, strawberry reds, lemon yellows, blueberry
blues and pristine white to the no-fuss prints, it
evokes a sense of light, casual airiness, like
everything summer!
See this collection at:
http://www.fatquartershop.com/red-rooster-
fabrics/summer-cottage-gerri-robinson-red-
rooster-fabrics
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PROJECT – Easy Four Patch Quilt Pattern
By Rose Smith from www.ludlowquiltandsew.co.uk
This easy four patch quilt pattern forms a grid along both diagonals with different sized squares. The quilt is a good size, at 74 inches square but can easily be made bigger or smaller by using different numbers of four patch quilt blocks.
I have used ½ yard each of the white and black floral fabrics, ½ yard each of the pink script and green border fabric, 1¾ yards of the red script and 1¼ yards of the pink tulip fabric in the border.
Cutting requirements
2½ inch squares: one hundred and twenty eight white floral, one hundred and twenty eight red script. These can be strip pieced, so don’t cut them until you have read the full pattern
4½ inch squares: sixty four red script, sixty four pink script, sixty four black floral
For the borders you will need eight 1½ inch strips of green fabric cut across the width of fabric and
sixteen 2½ inch strips of pink tulip fabric cut across the width of fabric.
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Making the small four patch quilt blocks
These can best be made by strip piecing.
Sew together a red and a white 2½ inch strip along the length. Press and then cut at 2½ inch intervals to make strips 2½ inches wide and 4½ inches long.
Place these in pairs with one of them rotated so that the red squares are diagonally opposite each other.
Make sixty four of these small four patch units.
Lay the small four patch units out with two red 4½ inch squares to make a full size four patch unit.
Sew the small four patch units together to make one 4½ inch square. Sew each one to a red square and then sew the pairs of squares together to complete the first four patch quilt block.
You will need thirty two of these.
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Making the large four patch quilt blocks
Lay out two pink 4½ inch squares and two black 4½ inch squares. Sew the squares together in pairs and then sew the pairs of squares together to complete the block.
You will need thirty two of these. I have called this the large four patch quilt block, although it is the same size as the first block – it’s just my way of differentiating between them.
Assembling the easy four patch quilt pattern
Lay the quilt blocks out in eight rows of eight. Begin the first row with a small four patch block and alternate with the large four patch block across the row.
Begin the second row with a large four patch block and alternate with the small four patch blocks across the row.
Continue alternating the blocks down all eight rows. Take care when you place the blocks to ensure that the small white squares always follow one diagonal while the large black squares always follow the other diagonal.
Sew the squares together across each row and then sew the rows to each other.
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Quilt Borders
For the first border I have used 2½ inch strips of pink tulip fabric. You will need two lengths of 64½ inches for the top and bottom of the quilt and two lengths of 68½ inches for the sides.
The second border is made using 1½ inch strips of green fabric. You will need two lengths of 68½ inches for the top and bottom of the quilt and two lengths of 70½ inches for the sides.
Finally for the third border I returned to the 2½ inch strips of pink tulip fabric. You will need two lengths of 70½ inches for the top and bottom of the quilt and two lengths of 74½ inches for the sides. Your quilt is now ready to be layered, quilted and bound to finish.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
About the Designer: Rose Smith was born and brought up
in Zambia in Africa. She moved to the UK when she was 18
and now lives in Shropshire, indulging her passion for
quilting and sewing. She has sewn all her life - ‘anything
that stood still long enough’ in the words of her children -
but now finds that patchwork and quilting have taken over
her life. She indulges this passion by posting patterns and
tutorials on her website for all to share.
www.ludlowquiltandsew.co.uk
LUDLOW QUILT AND SEW
Discover new and exciting projects to quilt and
sew each month with clear and easy to follow
instructions.
Visit our website and subscribe to Ludlow Quilt
and Sew’s free monthly newsletter now.
www.ludlowquiltandsew.co.uk
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Welcome to the world of Etsy! For those unfamiliar, Etsy is an online merchant showcase where everything is either handmade, a supply for making something handmade, or vintage.
It is a wonderfully eclectic group of people dedicated not only to their craft and your enjoyment of it, but to customer service. Through teaming and conversations, merchants support one another in the sale and promotion of their goods. Does this sound like you? Read on...
I started beading a number of years ago, and quickly found that I could only decorate a tree with so many ornaments and myself with so much jewelry.
At the encouragement of my friends and family, I went about selling at craft fairs and the major on-line auction site. I found that the fees greatly
impacted my bottom line. I was able to sell a few items here and there, but nothing major. I kept telling myself that this effort was more about meeting people and clearing out some inventory than anything else. Then, one sleepless evening, I found Etsy.
Please don't let me steer you wrong. I am a relative newbie on Etsy, and have only made sales to co-workers from my Etsy site. However, I am so excited about the site that I want to share its possibilities with you. So, BEFORE you set up an Etsy account, here are a few items to consider:
1) Setting up a store is very easy. You can choose PayPal or direct payments through Etsy (or both). I highly recommend both, so set up your PayPal to accept payments (free to set up, marginal fee for each sale you make).
How to Create and Promote a Shop on Etsy
From Amy Spock at www.etsy.com/au/shop/BeadsandThreadsbyAmy
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2) Think of a catchy store name that hints at your offerings.
3) Set up a light box with a light background and get some great shots of your merchandise.
4) Write descriptions of yourself, your shop, and each item you are listing (Etsy recommends at least 7 items to start).
5) Look at other shops and Etsy policies to get examples of shop policies-return policies, shipping policies, coupon code policies, etc. and write your own.
6) Log onto Etsy.com and start a store with the above information. Each item costs $.20 to list, and you will pay commission to Etsy on each sale (please read these policies carefully).
7) Join some teams to help you through this process. Teams have great suggestions on marketing, pricing, taking great pictures, and any number of things you'll have questions about. There are local and global teams to participate in. Find some teams with interests or locations
similar to yours to really harness the power of teams.
8) Look at all of Etsy's supports, blogs, and featured shop articles. Fantastic tips there!
9) Start small and grow. I started my store with 7 items, and I am up to 32. I have three shop sections now-beaded ornaments, quilting supplies, and custom embroidery. The sections are easy to set up, and Etsy is very user friendly.
10) Use Facebook and Twitter to promote your site to friends and family. It's not begging, it's advertising!!!
In all, I have found Etsy to be an incredibly easy, fun experience. I can't wait to grow my little business, and I am confident that Etsy is the place to do it.
About the Author: Visit my Etsy store at http://www.etsy.com/shop/BeadsandThreadsbyAmy. Keep up with me and my teams as we boldly go forward!
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Amy_Spock
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Project – Shoe Pouch
By Jody Anderson from www.BagMakingPatterns.com
This oh-so-practical little bag will fast become a firm favourite with all travellers. Make several for your
shoes to travel in, in your suitcase, and keep them protected, while stopping your clothes from getting
marked. This bag packs flat, and the side gussets allow expansion to fit your shoes. You’ll finish one in a
half hour, and be ready to make more!
Pouch Dimensions are 9½ inches wide x 13½ inches long.
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You Will Need:
½ metre ( ½ yard) fabric for outer bag
½ metre ( ½ yard) fabric for lining and contrast
strips
1 metre (1 yard) medium-weight fusible
interfacing
1 x 16 inch zip (it will be easier with a zip a bit
longer. Ours was about 20 inches and we
trimmed it after inserting it.)
Bag Construction:
Please read all instructions fully before beginning.
All measurements are in inches, and unless stated
otherwise, a ¼ inch seam allowance has been
used.
Referring to the attached Cutting Guide, carefully
cut the required bag pieces from the bag fabrics
and interfacing as required. Iron the interfacing
to the back of each piece as indicated in the
Cutting Guide.
Construction:
First make the strap. Using your iron, fold the
strap piece in half lengthways with wrong sides
together. Open out and fuse the strip of
interfacing centred over that creased line. Fold in
each side to meet the centre crease. Re-fold
again, so that there are 4 thicknesses of fabric.
Pin and topstitch down both sides.
Fold the two binding strips in half lengthways
with wrong sides together and press. Open out
and fold in one side only on each and press.
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Lay the outer strip face down on a
flat surface. First, fold in half
lengthways to mark the centre point.
Place a pin on that centre crease at
top and bottom ends.
Measure out 4½ inches from each
side of the centre point and mark
those points too. Measure in 4¾
inches from the side raw edges and
mark those points with pins as well.
As shown, the side is folded over at
the first (4½ inch mark) pins, and it is
then folded back on itself to create
the gusset before the top part (from
the 4¾ inch mark) is folded back over
for the front.
Fold both sides and make creases
with your hands.
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The lining is marked and folded in the
same way except that you place it right
side up on the flat surface, so that when it
is folded, the wrong side is facing out.
Keep the pins in place, marking those fold
points.
Now insert the zipper.
Lay the zipper face down on the right side
of one of the pouch sides, matching raw
edges.
Place the lining on top with right side
down and pin the three layers together.
Use your zipper foot to sew the zip
between the two fabric layers.
Open out and topstitch along that seam as
shown.
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To insert the other side of the zip, hold
the zipper edge up with the outer fabric
side facing you. Bring up the other end of
the outer fabric piece to meet the top of
the zipper tape as shown.
Fold the lining piece up behind to meet
the top of the zipper tape on the other
side, so the zip is again sandwiched
between the two fabric layers.
Pin and sew. Turn right sides out and
topstitch along that seam.
Use the pins as your guide again, and re-
fold the pouch.
Pin across top and bottom to secure the
folded gussets.
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Fold the strap in half and sew to the back of the
pouch, at the end where the zipper pull will be
when the zip is closed.
Now sew across both ends, through all layers.
Sew carefully over the zip at each end too
(making sure the zipper pull is in the middle of
the bag and not hanging out one end!)
Trim the zip ends.
Finally, add the contrast binding strips at each
end.
As shown, lay the right side of the binding on
the right side at the back of the pouch. Sew
along the crease you made to sew one side of
the binding to the pouch.
Turn over. Fold in the raw edges at the ends
and tuck under the seam allowance on the
binding strip, so that the binding piece folds
over the raw edges at the end of the pouch
neatly. Pin and topstitch carefully. Repeat for
the other end to finish.
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Shoe Pouch Cutting Guide
Cut the required number of each piece according
to the measurements on each diagram.
* Please note – all measurements are in inches.
Cut 1 outer fabric
Cut 1 lining/contrast fabric
Cut 2 medium-weight interfacing
(* This size pouch is good for up to a size 9-10 ladies
shoe. Add an inch or two to the 13½ inch side for
longer shoes, and add 2-4 inches to the 29 inch
measurement for wider shoes.)
Cut 1 lining/contrast fabric
Cut 1 medium-weight interfacing (2 inches wide)
Cut 2 lining/contrast fabric
(Adjust binding length too if you alter the pouch
panel measurement.)
Pouch Panel
Strap
Binding
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Compliments of the Season to Everyone:
May 2015 bring you all you could wish for you, your family and your friends.
I have spent a sojourn in Makassar, on the island of Sulawesi, Indonesia, staying in what was once an old Dutch home: high ceilings, wide verandas and expansive communal spaces leading to vast bedrooms, with double doors almost everywhere, beckoning across white-tiled floors.
In my room (which was really a suite it was so big), there is a collection of the most amazing antique carved furniture: The bedhead, the foot of the bed, the wardrobe, the ‘duchess’ (aka enormous dressing table with elaborate mirror), two upholstered chairs, and a stool from the dressing table, all carved to match.
Look at the detail of the elaborately-carved
upholstered bedhead!
Don’t let anyone fool you into thinking that King-sized beds are a modern ‘invention’; this bed was even bigger than that, more than three pillows wide!!
Here’s a shot of the foot of the bed…
Doodling in Makassar
By Pamela Davis of Patchwork Quint-essential
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It was so big I had trouble getting far enough away to get the full perspective!!
The furniture all sang with one fullsome voice: “Quilting Designs!!”
I became completely captivated by the flow and the detail. These photos do not really do justice to my experience, but they may help you to make your own quilting designs. Next article, I will elaborate on my methods of translating doodles into quilting………
For now, run your eyes over the carving on the wardrobe:
I should add that the ceilings were really high…… (today’s standard here is 3.7m) and although the room was vast, it was filled with VERY LARGE furniture, so it was quite a challenge to get any kind of perspective on it.
Here is the side of the wardrobe, in a little more detail:
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So here is my challenge: Find some scrap paper and a pencil, and doodle, using these photos as your inspiration……….. (You should be able to enlarge the detail with the wizardry of modern technology.) Then try doodling with your sewing machine……. Enjoy!!
Pamela Davis Patchwork Quint-essential [email protected]
Don't keep this Online Quilt Magazine
all to yourself –share it with your
Quilting Guilds and Friends!
Don't wait - Invite them to
www.OnlineQuiltMagazine.com to
Subscribe and receive each New Issue
as soon as it's Published!
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"Patchwork Loves Embroidery " by Gail Pan
You'll love this book by talented Australian, Gail
Pan.
I always enjoy some hand sewing and love to
combine this with my quilts and wallhangings.
In this book Gail shows us 15 designs for a variety
of quilted projects - from table runners,
wallhangings, bags and covers for little books to
pincushions.
Her simple pictures are for all levels of quilters
and embroiderers and show how embellishment
of our work can be easily done to create some
lovely articles for the home or for gifts.
Basic instructions on threads, needles and fabrics
are included as well as ways of transferring the
designs from the full-sized pattern sheets.
Book Reviews
By Annette Mira-Bateman from www.QuiltBlockoftheMonthClub.com
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The motifs are inspired by nature - flowers, birds
and cottages all combine to enhance the
patchwork. Gail encourages us to mix and match
the designs if you wish.
It's amazing how simple projects can be
transformed into something really striking by the
addition of a little handwork.
"Patchwork Loves Embroidery" is published by
Martingale and is available through your local
craft book shop or online from:
www.ShopMartingale.com
(Photos courtesy of Martingale)
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"Cups and Saucers - Paper Pieced Kitchen
Designs" by Maaike Bakker
Back by popular demand, this book has over 40
block patterns for 10 projects - all re-made in
completely new fabrics.
Cups and saucers, plates and mugs, jars, boxes,
teapots, bowls and even vegetables - all can be
made using the paper piecing method. All
instructions are clearly set out, with good photos
to help.
The projects are delightful. Alternative
colourways are suggested. Step-by-step guides
will enable any quilter to make wall hangings or
table decorations with these whimsical patterns.
The kitchen or family room will be the envy of
your friends if you add a few of these projects.
There are placemats, table runners and kitchen
dresser-type wall hangings. Almost all are
pictured using alternative fabrics. You'll be
inspired to redecorate your kitchen after looking
at this book.
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Changing a few elements of the design and using
different colours will enable you to move with the
seasons - Christmas themes, Halloween perhaps,
Spring etc.
Vegetables and crockery are all used to great
effect.
The 40 block patterns and quilting designs at the
end of the book, combined with very clear
instructions and photos make this book a must
for any quilter seeking inspiration for something
different.
Maaike Bakker was born in the Netherlands and
has taught classes internationally.
"Cups and Saucers - Paper Pieced Kitchen
Designs" is published by Martingale and is
available through your local craft book shop or
online from: www.ShopMartingale.com
(Photos courtesy of Martingale)
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Ingredients:
300g (10½ oz) fresh ricotta cheese
2/3 cup coarsely grated mozzarella cheese
½ cup finely grated parmesan cheese
2 eggs, lightly beaten
4 sheets frozen puff pastry, partially thawed
Method:
Place ricotta in a bowl. Using a fork, mash until
almost smooth. Add mozzarella and parmesan.
Season with salt and pepper. Stir to combine. Add
half the egg. Stir to combine.
Preheat oven to 220°C/200°C (400 F/425 F) fan-
forced. Line 2 baking trays with baking paper.
Using a 10cm/4 inch round cutter, cut 5 rounds
from each pastry sheet. Brush edge of rounds
with egg. Spoon 1 level tablespoon mixture onto
centre of each round. Spread to a 5cm/2 inch log.
Fold up 2 sides of pastry to enclose log. Pinch to
seal. Twist ends to form points. Place on
prepared trays. Brush with remaining egg.
Recipe Corner – Three-Cheese Pastizzi
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Bake for 20 to 25 minutes or until golden and
puffed. Stand for 4 minutes before serving.
Notes
Tip: You could use crumbled feta cheese instead
of parmesan.
Freezer tips:
To freeze: Place uncooked pastizzi on a baking
tray lined with baking paper. Freeze for 2 to 3
hours or until firm. Transfer to a large snaplock
bag. Expel air from bag. Freeze for up to 1 month.
To reheat: Preheat oven to 220C/200C (400 F/
425 F) fan-forced. Line 2 baking trays with baking
paper. Place frozen pastizzi on prepared trays.
Bake for 25 minutes or until golden and heated
through.
https://www.flickr.com/groups/ecoquilters
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This month we continue our regular segment of
“Show and Tell” quilts made by our Online Quilt
Magazine Readers. It’s been another busy month
too!
We will include them as long as you can send
them to us, and that way we can all share in the
wealth of creativity and inspiration abundant
within our quilting community.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
“Here is the almost finished version of a lap quilt I
made for a special friend. She has 4 beautiful Gr.
Pyrennes dogs so each dog collar has the dog’s
name on it for the quilt.
She loved it so much she did not want to use it,
but I insisted it was for use when reading during
those winter nights! It is all hand sewn and hand
quilted. I didn’t use a machine for any of it.”
- Intha R., USA
Reader “Show and Tell”
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And Jacqueline B from Belgium sent in her latest
bag and Christmas wallhanging.
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“I recently finished a Christmas present for a
friend using layer cakes and making my own
pattern. Here is a photo of the finished product. It
ended up fitting the top of a king size bed. Quite
an undertaking but I love making gifts. I chose to
do stitch in the ditch to quilt it, it was the easiest
since I do not have a long arm machine.”
- Linda M., USA
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Yolande J. from Australia made this fab bag in
Christmas colours too…
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“Just thought I would show you a photo of the
Redwork table runner that I made to send to my
brother-in-law & his wife in America. The fabrics
all show patterns of Australian wildflowers.”
(Pattern from
www.QuiltBlockoftheMonthClub.com )
- Joan C., Australia
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“I wanted to show you my latest work – a Tester
bag for Sara @ SewSweetness in Chicago in USA “
- Peta L., Australia
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“Attached is a couple of pics of my 1st ever Quilt. I
made it for my son when he got his big-boy bed in
2005.
- Katharina Z., Rotterdam, NY, USA
Keep them coming – We’ve had some
lovely quilts and bags this month!
Please send in your “Show and Tell”
Photos to me at:
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This week's block is one of a series of cross
blocks. It is fairly easy to piece together and has
a great effect when completed.
To make this 12 inch block as shown, you will
need 5 different fabrics, and once you have
rotary cut the pieces according to the Cutting
Diagram, you can piece them together as shown.
Block of the Month
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Today’s Tips:
1. Ensure your binding goes on smoothly by
running a row of stitching around the edge of the
quilt to hold all three layers together, before you
attach it.
2. Make your quilt rod / hanging sleeve from a
patchwork of all the fabric used in your quilt.
Then, if you need to repair anything on the quilt
top later, you will have a selection of the right
fabrics to use.
3. When measuring a quilt for borders, take
several measurements lengthwise and crosswise -
especially going through the quilt centre. You will
need to square up your quilt at this point so your
borders will sit properly when they are joined.
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And the following tips are perfect for the New
Year…!
* Park your ironing board as far away as possible from your machine and become obsessive about pressing every single seam. This will keep you moving instead of sitting in one place too long. (I have decided this saves time on having to go do some exercise - why walk around the block,( or go out in the cold for the gym) when you can make 20 trips to the ironing board...???) * Make a list of your unfinished projects (UFOs). Finish the ones that still hold your interest. Then give away, trade, sell, or throw away the rest. (This tip is a gem - the peace of mind from not always having that niggling feeling that there's something still to finish before you can get fully into the next project is worth it!!) I think this is something to do with "bright shiny objects" and procrastination...
We’re always on the lookout for
great Hints and Tips to share. If you
have any, please send them to
as we’d love to include yours!
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YES, We Want to Hear From
You!
As our Online Magazine continues to grow each
month, we need your feedback in order for us to
continue to improve our publication for you.
• We want to know how you liked it.
• We want to know the topics you're
interested in.
• We want to know if you have any
suggestions, Hints or Tips of your own that
you'd like included, or if you know anyone
we should include a story on!
Please send me an email with your Testimonial,
Tip, Suggestion, “Show and Tell” Quilt or
Enhancement – I'd love to hear from you!
Send all emails to:
If you'd like to submit an Article, or a Project for
Publication, or take advantage of our Very Very
Reasonable Advertising Rates, please email details
or queries to Jody at
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"Quilt-y" Quotes…
* Quilting is a gift you give yourself. * Quilting is cheap therapy. * Quilters know all the angles.