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Online Quilt Magazine – Vol. 3 No. 3
© Online Quilt Magazine.com All Rights Reserved P a g e | 1
Online Quilt Magazine.com
Vol.3 No.3 – March 2012
BRAND NEW
Mystery BOM
Project- Part 1
This Month
How To Baste
Your Quilts
PROJECT
9-Patch Table
Mat
Our Best
Tips For
Attending
Quilt
Shows
Quilting For
Charity
Online Quilt Magazine – Vol. 3 No. 3
© Online Quilt Magazine.com All Rights Reserved P a g e | 2
Online Quilt Magazine Table of Contents
From Quilt Top To Finished Quilt – Part 1..………………………………………………………………………………………… Page 4
Quilting For Charity………………………………………………………..…………………………………………………………………. Page 12
PROJECT – Mystery BOM Quilt – Month 1…..……….……………………………………………………………………………. Page 16
Territory Treasures – Part 3…………………..……………………………………………………………………………………………
Layering and Basting Your Quilt..………………………………………………………………………………………………………..
PROJECT – 9-Patch Table Mat…………………………………………………………………………………………………………….
What’s New From The Fat Quarter Shop .……………………………………………………………………………...............
Hints & Tips from Brannie ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….
Page 20
Page 24
Page 29
Page 33
Page 37
PROJECT – Squirrel in a Cage Quilt………………………………………………………………………………………………………
Tips For Attending Quilt Shows……………….………………………………………………………………………………………….
The Thai Road Less Travelled………………………………………………………………………………………………………………
Page 39
Page 43
Page 45
PROJECT – Quilt Label of the Month…………………………………………..……………………………………………………… Page 49
BLOCK OF THE MONTH – Aunt Dinah Block……....................................................................................... Page 51
Today's Tips............................................................................................................................................. Page 54
YES – We Want To hear From You........................................................................................................... Page 56
Online Quilt Magazine – Vol. 3 No. 3
© Online Quilt Magazine.com All Rights Reserved P a g e | 3
Letter from the Editor
Jody Anderson
Hi!
Welcome to another jam-packed Online Quilt Magazine! We have a fantastic array of new articles for
you this month, and we’re thrilled to be able to introduce a Brand New Mystery Block of the Month
Project for you to start too. This project will go for the next 8 months, with a fun twist at the end, that
we guarantee you won’t expect! Give it a go, and we’re sure you’re going to love it.
Penny and Leah give us their insights on basting a quilt this month, and if you haven’t, do make sure
you check out Leah’s blog on The Free Motion Quilting Project (http://freemotionquilting.blogspot.com.au)
for some new quilting ideas to try.
Also, our Sister Club at www.BagMakingPatterns.com is having their “March Madness” Sale now too.
Check out their info on page 11, and for only 99 cents this month, we think it’s well worth it if (like me)
you’ve a bit of a thing for bags…
There’s plenty of other quick projects to make in this issue as well, and still many more to come after
this! (It’s all happening here!)
Have a great month! Jody
Online Quilt Magazine – Vol. 3 No. 3
© Online Quilt Magazine.com All Rights Reserved P a g e | 4
Are you amassing a collection of quilt tops, but
not completed quilts? Many quilters make
beautiful quilt tops, only to reach the quilting
process and feel overwhelmed and confused by
how to get the layers of the quilt together and
quilted.
In truth, this is a multi-step process that involves
more than just free motion quilting, but also
basting the three layers together in preparation
for quilting, and binding, which finishes all the
raw edges of the quilt.
This month let’s break down the first of these
simple steps and concentrate on basting our quilt
tops. Basting is a very important process because
it prepares the quilt for quilting and holds all the
layers temporarily in place.
If a mistake is made in the basting process, it’s
most definitely going to show up in the finished
quilt so it’s an important process to focus on
when quilting any quilt of any size.
Basting 101
The first step to quilting is to baste the quilt top.
This is the process of layering the backing fabric,
batting, and quilt top and securing this sandwich
together temporarily so the quilt can be quilted.
Please understand that there are many, many
ways of basting a quilt, and it’s a good idea to try
several techniques before settling on the
From Quilt Top To Finished Quilt – Part 1
By Leah Day from www.FreeMotionQuilt.blogspot.com
Online Quilt Magazine – Vol. 3 No. 3
© Online Quilt Magazine.com All Rights Reserved P a g e | 5
technique that works best for you. Here’s just
one method to pin baste your quilt tops:
1. Starch and press both your quilt backing
fabric and quilt top. This will lock the
fibers and stiffen the top and back so the
fabrics have less stretch and tendency to
pull out of shape.
2. Spread the backing fabric right side
DOWN over a flat surface. This can be a
hard floor, but in truth a large tabletop is
best.
Note: if you don’t have access to tables as
big as your quilt top, consider checking
with your local quilt guild or quilt shop.
Most will allow you to bring your tops into
the shop and baste for an hour for a
nominal fee. Another place to check with
is your local longarm quilter.
A longarmer can easily baste your quilt
using water soluble thread which you can
quilt right over and wash out when the
quilt is complete.
Your backing fabric should be cut at least
6-8 inches bigger than your quilt top so
there’s more than enough fabric around
all the edges.
Secure the backing fabric and stretch it taunt. For
this process, most quilters use masking tape.
Online Quilt Magazine – Vol. 3 No. 3
© Online Quilt Magazine.com All Rights Reserved P a g e | 6
If you’re able to baste on a tabletop, here’s an
alternative securing method using elastic strips:
Cut at least 20 1 inch wide elastic strips about 1.5
yards long. Hook or tie these strips to the
underside of your table and pull them to the
table top.
Starting on the sides of the backing fabric, pin the
elastic to the edges of the fabric, stretching the
elastic a bit as you pin.
Online Quilt Magazine – Vol. 3 No. 3
© Online Quilt Magazine.com All Rights Reserved P a g e | 7
This will cause the elastic to pull the fabric tight
against the table top, ensuring a perfectly flat,
taunt backing fabric.
It might even be a good idea to mix the two
materials together. Use masking tape to secure
the corners and some edges of the quilt backing,
and elastic strips to secure sides and long areas
that can be pulled tighter
4. Once the backing fabric is secured on all
sides, spread your batting over this
surface. Your batting should be cut 4-6
inches bigger than your quilt top so again,
there’s more than enough space all
around the edges.
Take your time and smooth the batting
layer completely, working from the center
to the edges. Make sure the batting lays
completely flat and smooth on top of the
backing so no lumps are left in your quilt.
5. Now spread your quilt top right side up on
top of the batting.
Online Quilt Magazine – Vol. 3 No. 3
© Online Quilt Magazine.com All Rights Reserved P a g e | 8
Note: I’m using a flannel receiving blanket
as the batting in this quilt. Flannel can
make a great batting for very lightweight
quilts, but make sure to wash it at least
twice in HOT water to take all the shrink
out of this material first.
Because a quilt top is pieced from many
different pieces of fabric, blocks, sashing,
and borders, you might find some areas
want to bubble or ripple over the surface
of the quilt. Spread and smooth these
areas out as flat as you can with your
hands.
6. Now starting in the center of the quilt,
start pinning through all three layers,
making sure to catch the backing, batting,
and quilt top all within the pin.
Space your pins around every 4-6 inches
apart. This is around the size of your
hand. If you can place your hand on the
quilt and not hit a pin, you’re probably
spacing your pins too far apart.
Which pin should you use?
Many quilters have used bent safety pins because
the slight bend is easy to insert. The problem
with safety pins is they can be quite difficult to
open and close and can tear up the skin around
your fingertips. A good tool for closing safety
pins is a Kwik Klip.
Online Quilt Magazine – Vol. 3 No. 3
© Online Quilt Magazine.com All Rights Reserved P a g e | 9
A new tool for basting is called Pinmoors. These
are small silicone nuggets that anchor straight
pins. This way you can use regular straight pins
to baste your quilt which are longer and hold
more securely than safety pins.
To use Pinmoors simply insert a straight pin down
into all three layers of the quilt, then bring it back
up to the surface of the quilt. Now just stick the
sharp end of the pin into the end of the Pinmoor,
which locks the pin in place on the quilt surface.
The nice thing about Pinmoors is they’re much
easier to remove while quilting, especially for
quilters with arthritis or difficulty with fine finger
movements.
Once the entire quilt is basted with pins, remove
the tape or elastic strips from the edges of the
backing fabric and get ready to quilt your quilt!
Basting is definitely an important process and
necessary step to free motion quilting, so take
your time with each quilt top and make sure all
the layers are properly secured before moving on
to the quilting process.
Online Quilt Magazine – Vol. 3 No. 3
© Online Quilt Magazine.com All Rights Reserved P a g e | 10
Don’t miss out next month when we learn tips on
quilting our quilts in free motion on our home
machines!
Let’s go baste some quilts!
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
(You can find both the Kwik Klip and Pinmoors at
Leah’s Shop:
http://www.daystyledesigns.com/quiltshop.htm )
About the Author: Leah Day is the author of the Free
Motion Quilting Project, a blog project dedicated to
creating new free motion quilting designs each week and
sharing them all for FREE! Leah is also the author of From
Daisy to Paisley - 50 Beginner Free Motion Quilting Designs,
a spiral bound book featuring 50 designs from the project.
www.daystyledesigns.com
Online Quilt Magazine – Vol. 3 No. 3
© Online Quilt Magazine.com All Rights Reserved P a g e | 11
Online Quilt Magazine – Vol. 3 No. 3
© Online Quilt Magazine.com All Rights Reserved P a g e | 12
I am often asked by other quilters all about the
what, when, why, and how of making quilts for
charity. Some quilters are not sure of the
measurements, fabric requirements, finishing
requirements, where to give and so on. This
article addresses all these issues and lots more.
There are many, many charities around the globe,
who involve themselves in making, receiving and
distributing quilts and blankets to the needy
people of their communities. As a matter of
interest, I’ve just googled “Quilting for Charity”
and there were 66,000 results. Here on earth,
there is an essential human need for warmth,
comfort and a feeling that someone cares, and
this need is borderless, colourless, and creedless.
I like to define a quilter in the following manner:
One who is a member of a world-wide alliance of
caring people who have a passion for creating
with fabric and thread, and who practice
compassion, empathy and respect for their fellow
man at every opportunity.
This definition is reflected in the many hours
quilters everywhere spend creating quilts and
blankets for those who need them. If quilters are
not sewing tops, or piecing the three layers
together, they are donating fabric and other
materials and notions, or donating their time in
distributing quilts and identifying the need for
quilts in their own neighbourhoods.
Quilts and warm blankets are required all year
round, even in warmer climes. Not only do these
quilts offer warmth, these quilts often represent
Quilting For Charity
By Judie Bellingham from www.bellaonline.com/site/Quilting
Online Quilt Magazine – Vol. 3 No. 3
© Online Quilt Magazine.com All Rights Reserved P a g e | 13
“home” to the homeless, comfort to those in
distress or trauma, and a feeling of being cared
about by those in need.
Here are some hints and tips for making good
quality quilts for charity.
Firstly, these quilts must be your best effort. Just
because you don’t know the recipient, doesn’t
mean that they won’t recognize shoddy or
careless work. For the gift to be truly appreciated
by someone in need, it must be made with
compassion, empathy and respect. Good quality
fabrics, top and bottom say “you are as important
to me as my own children” and are essential to
take the hard use and wear and tear these quilts
are likely to receive i.e. washing machines,
clothes pegs etc.
There is no requirement for complicated or
complex patterns in charity quilts. The simplest
patterns, with uncomplicated shapes and easily
recognized pattern lines are usually the easiest
and quickest to create. Simple cutting will pave
Online Quilt Magazine – Vol. 3 No. 3
© Online Quilt Magazine.com All Rights Reserved P a g e | 14
the way for simple piecing, which in turn allows
for simple quilting.
It’s important to use a good sewing thread, and
keep the stitch slightly smaller than usual – it will
enable the seams to be a little more resilient to
hard wear.
The batting is just as important as the top and
bottom of the quilt. Consider purchasing good
quality cotton batting – this will wash and wear
very well. It also makes for easy machine
quilting, as the fabric tends to “stick” to the
batting with little pinning required. There are
battings on the market these days that have a
water based adhesive that is ironed together into
three layers – no pining or basting required. The
first time these quilts are washed, the adhesive is
automatically washed away.
Machine quilting is essential for these quilts to
remain intact and be of the utmost use to the
recipient. Simple straight line quilting is not only
quick and easy, but most likely to stay in one
piece for longer.
Binding should be doubled to give a durable
wearing edge.
Sizes
Because these quilts are given to either children
or adults, any quilt size is fine – up to a twin bed
size. The most popular is a twin size which is
equivalent to about 39” x 74”. For a child up to
about aged 10 a quilt 35” x 50” is a good size.
Please remember if the recipient is taking this
quilt to hospital, it’s best to have a slightly smaller
quilt. They do have a tendency to get caught in
tubes etc around the beds.
Lastly, where do you give these quilts? Firstly,
there are organizations in most communities that
can put you in touch with the charities that can
distribute to the areas of need. Organizations
such as Linus Project, Ugly Quilts (sleeping
bags/quilts for the homeless), or if you contact
welfare agencies such as Salvation Army or St
Online Quilt Magazine – Vol. 3 No. 3
© Online Quilt Magazine.com All Rights Reserved P a g e | 15
Vincent de Paul or Department of Health or
Family Services – these will all have contact
details for you. Quilt Groups will usually have a
contact member, or at least know who to
contact. If this fails, your church is likely to have
some details for you.
If you don’t wish to make a quilt perhaps you
could donate any of the following to quilters who
do make them. The sorts of things they need are
fabrics, threads and battings. If you have suitable
patterns you no longer need, perhaps you might
donate these.
I belong to my local Linus Project in Brisbane,
Australia and Sunshine Linus on the Sunshine
Coast, and I’m known as a “finisher”. I often
receive a parcel containing the quilt top already
made, the backing and the binding. I provide the
batting (I like the adhesive cotton batting) as this
is my donation to the cause. I usually can put
together a couple of quilts in a day. “Toppers”
are the quilters who only make tops. So there’s a
need for all sorts of finishers, some women bind
the quilt and put the label on. We all work
together for a common cause – to care.
About the author:
Judie Bellingham has been quilting since 1976 and has
taught in Queensland, Interstate and Internationally since
2000.
Judie is a past vice president of Queensland Quilters Inc and
is the current Editor of the Quilting site at Bellaonline. This
site has loads of information about quilting and offers many
free patterns for readers.
Judie is involved with several quilting and craft groups in
her home town of Brisbane, and is the President of
Sunshine Linus on the Sunshine Coast.
Website: www.bellaonline.com/site/Quilting
Online Quilt Magazine – Vol. 3 No. 3
© Online Quilt Magazine.com All Rights Reserved P a g e | 16
PROJECT - Mystery BOM Quilt – Month 1
From www.QuiltBlockoftheMonthClub.com
We’ve just designed a Very Special 8-Part Mystery Block of the Month Quilt exclusively for the Online
Quilt Magazine, and this month, we start with Block 1. To keep the surprise and the assembly fun for
the very end, you’ll be making a set of different blocks each month, and then in Month 8 we’ll give you
the full directions to put them all together.
As you know, we like to add a bit of a ‘twist’ to many of our quilts, and this one is no different.
Everything is not as it seems…..
Month 1 Block
Online Quilt Magazine – Vol. 3 No. 3
© Online Quilt Magazine.com All Rights Reserved P a g e | 17
Fabrics You Will Need:
2½ metres (3 yards) plain pink fabric
1½ metres ( 1¾ yards) green patterned fabric
1 metre ( 1¼ yards) purple patterned fabric
2 metres (2¼ yards) plain white fabric
1½ metres ( 1¾ yards) plain black fabric
You can of course, choose any fabrics you like for this quilt. The pink fabric is an accent fabric and the
purple can be a feature fabric if you wish. We used the pink for our border also, so bear this in mind
when cutting smaller pieces for the blocks and cut pieces down the length, rather than across the full
width, so you have sufficient length of fabric to make the borders without having to piece them.
Month 1:
To start, this month you will need to make 9 of these Month 1 blocks.
Online Quilt Magazine – Vol. 3 No. 3
© Online Quilt Magazine.com All Rights Reserved P a g e | 18
Cut:
From the plain white fabric cut 18 squares measuring 2 3/8 inch x 2 3/8 inch square, and cross cut
diagonally once so you have 36 triangles in total.
From the plain pink fabric also cut 18 squares measuring 2 3/8 inch x 2 3/8 inch square, and cross cut
diagonally once so you have 36 triangles in total.
From the green fabric cut 36 strips measuring 2 inches wide x 7½ inches long
From the purple fabric cut 9 squares measuring 7½ inches x 7½ inches.
Lay out each block as shown here.
You will be able to chain piece some of
these pieces if you wish too.
Online Quilt Magazine – Vol. 3 No. 3
© Online Quilt Magazine.com All Rights Reserved P a g e | 19
First, with right sides together, sew the
corner triangles together and press seams.
Next join the rows together.
Press the seams of the top and bottom
rows towards the centre, and press the
seams of the central row towards the
outsides.
Join the three rows together and press
block well.
Trim to 10½ inches square and put aside
until Month 8.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
*** Make sure you get the next Mystery
Block Instalment in Next Month’s
Online Quilt Magazine! ***
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
For more Original BOM quilt projects, go to:
www.QuiltBlockoftheMonthClub.com
Online Quilt Magazine – Vol. 3 No. 3
© Online Quilt Magazine.com All Rights Reserved P a g e | 20
This month we take a look at the third in a series
of five quilts designed for and housed in
Government House in Darwin, Australia.
The Government House Foundation
commissioned a series of five quilts and the
project was put into the capable hands of Jenny
Armour and her team of dedicated quilters.
Each quilt showcases a specific part of the
Northern Territory, a vast area with a diversity of
landscape and climate.
The first two quilts highlighted the dry central
regions around Alice Springs but this quilt takes
us on a journey north of “The Alice” into a region
of remote desert country that links the Red
Centre to the Kimberley in Western Australia.
Quilt Three - The Tanami…
Territory Treasures – Part 3
By Brenda Dean from www.QuiltersInternational.com
Online Quilt Magazine – Vol. 3 No. 3
© Online Quilt Magazine.com All Rights Reserved P a g e | 21
The dry landscape between Tennant Creek and
Katherine is an inhospitable environment and
home to its traditional Aboriginal owners, the
Arunta people.
The southern part has low ranges, the centre it
noticeably flatter, and as you near the Kimberley
the terrain changes again and becomes rocky and
hilly. Rainfall is sporadic and water quickly
evaporates in the hot sun.
The colours in this quilt are typical of the region,
with the red rocks standing out in stark contrast
to the dry grass and low shrubs.
The Tanami was the Territory’s final frontier and
was considered a wasteland until twentieth
century exploration discovered deposits of gold
and other valuable minerals.
Early settlers raised cattle in the vast open space,
but the unpredictable weather pattern of
Australia’s most northerly desert made life
somewhat of a gamble.
There are details in this quilt that bring us well
and truly into modern times. The road train with
multiple trailers carries the stock to the saleyards
or the docks in the north for transportation
overseas. How very different from the lifestyle of
the drovers and their herds depicted in quilt two
(The Central Desert).
The Overland Telegraph wire, the first successful
communication line linking the north and south
of the continent is an intruder across an
otherwise natural landscape.
In the bottom left corner the modern Ghan, the
new rail link between the centre and the Top End,
brings visitors, cocooned in air-conditioned
comfort, to explore the “Top End”. The name
“Ghan” is in memory of the Afghans whose camel
trains opened up the outback and carried
supplies to isolated settlements long before the
train travelled the route.
Online Quilt Magazine – Vol. 3 No. 3
© Online Quilt Magazine.com All Rights Reserved P a g e | 22
The winding gear from one of the many small
mines merges into the landscape yielding
valuable ore from deep under the surface.
There are boulders and termite mounds and a
small bushfire attracting the black kites hunting in
the drifting smoke. The Tanami provides refuge
for several of Australia's rare and endangered
species that take cover in the spinifex grass, low
acacias and spindly grevilleas.
The landscape is dotted with windpumps bringing
life giving water from the artesian basin deep
underground. The cattle gather around these
Online Quilt Magazine – Vol. 3 No. 3
© Online Quilt Magazine.com All Rights Reserved P a g e | 23
watering places in the dry season when the
natural waterholes dry up.
About the author: Brenda has been involved with fabric
products since she was in primary school. Assisting her
mother after school in a home sewing business, later
exhibiting in both fashion design and quilting & and
patchwork competitions. She has had many articles
published in Australia, Europe & the USA. She currently
sells patchwork patterns on the internet through
quiltersinternational.com and is founder president of
Westernport Quilters Inc. (westernportquilters.org.)
Your Friends Will Be Shocked to Discover That
You Learned How to Make and Machine Quilt a
Beautiful Family Heirloom Quilt Simply by
Watching TV!
Unlock the secrets for beautiful machine quilting
using your home sewing machine by simply
watching this video on your TV or computer.
Details showing how to set up your machine and
guide your quilt as you machine quilt on your
home sewing machine.
You will get beautiful results using the techniques
in this quilting resource!
www.MachineQuiltingAdventure.com
Online Quilt Magazine – Vol. 3 No. 3
© Online Quilt Magazine.com All Rights Reserved P a g e | 24
There are several methods of basting to keep the
layers held together while you quilt: pin basting
or thread basting are two options. Another
technique is to use spray basting.
Which method of basting you choose depends on
how you will quilt your quilt.
For hand quilting, pin basting and thread basting
are the best choices. The spray basting tends to
get your quilting needle gummy - and makes it
more difficult to pull it through the fabric.
Spray basting and pin basting are great for
machine quilting.
Here is a step-by-step guide for layering your
quilt.
Step 1
The first step is to find a smooth, hard surface
that is large enough for you to spread your quilt
on, and spread out the backing fabric - wrong
side up. Smooth the fabric flat.
This is fairly easy for smaller quilts. I have a
cardboard cutting mat left over from my clothes-
making days that I unfold and lay on my bed.
I have also been known to use a floor in my
house, or clean off the concrete on the patio
(really well!) and spread out a quilt there.
Layering and Basting Your Quilt
By Penny Halgren from www.How-To-Quilt.com
Online Quilt Magazine – Vol. 3 No. 3
© Online Quilt Magazine.com All Rights Reserved P a g e | 25
Some quilt shops offer their large tables to
quilters for basting.
Often I secure the layer to the surface to make
sure it stays put. That can be done using masking
or painters tape or pins.
Step 2
Next, lay your quilt top on the backing - just to be
sure that the backing is large enough. The size of
your quilt will determine how much excess
backing fabric and batting that should extend
beyond the quilt top.
For smaller quilts, use about 2" extra, for larger
quilts, I have at least 3" of the batting and
backing extending beyond the quilt top.
This will be trimmed off after you quilt, and
before you add the binding. Its purpose is to
ensure that the batting, backing and top all end
up the same size after they are quilted.
Step 3
Once you have determined that the backing is
large enough, remove the quilt top.
With the quilt top put aside, lay your batting onto
the backing. The backing is still facing with its
wrong side up.
In this step, smooth the batting out. It is critical to
get the batting as smooth as you can. If there are
bulges and puckers in the batting, it will be very
difficult to have a smooth quilt.
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I use all kinds of nudging, patting and pushing to
get the batting smooth. I have also resorted to
pressing - although that is a last resort!
Step 4
Lay your quilt top on the batting, facing right side
up.
Smooth the quilt top out until it is flat. This step is
critical, too.
Make sure that all of the wrinkles are out of the
top, batting and backing. You can feel them with
your hands.
Don't stress too much, though. If you use a hoop
in hand quilting, you will be able to get even
more of the wrinkles out.
If you are machine quilting, you can also stretch
some of the wrinkles out as you feed the quilt
through the machine.
Step 5
Now you get to cut off the excess backing fabric
and batting if you need to.
If this is a bed-size quilt, you will want to leave
about 3" around the edges of your quilt top. For
smaller quilts - wall hangings - you can be safe to
leave around 2 inches on each side.
If you cut the backing fabric and batting the same
size as your top, you are likely to end up short.
(Your top will be larger than the back and
batting.)
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Now you are ready to baste your quilt. If you
have secured the backing to the table, it is good
to remove the tape before you baste the quilt.
Step 6
Now you are ready to baste your quilt.
For Pin Basting – I generally use safety pins,
placing them about 4-6 inches apart.
You could start pinning in the center of the quilt
and work your way to the outsides. However, it is
equally effective to pin from side to side and
work your way across the quilt.
To reach the entire quilt, once an area is pinned, I
roll the pinned portion of the quilt and pull the
remainder of the quilt toward me. I’ll continue
rolling up the pinned portion of the quilt until it is
completely pinned.
Of course, if you have secured the backing of the
quilt to the table, rolling it will be impossible –
unless you un-tape it!
For Thread Basting – because there will be
movement in the layers of your quilt as you
thread baste, you’ll want to begin through the
center of your quilt and work to the outside. That
way, the excess will just melt away and the fabric
won’t “bunch up” in the center of your quilt.
There is a distinct advantage to thread basting an
X through the center of your quilt, extending to
the corners. To accomplish that, I start in the
center of the quilt and make big (2-3” long)
stitches, until I reach a corner of the quilt.
Then, I go back to the center and repeat the
process, going from the center to a different
corner.
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Once you have the large X basted through the
center of your quilt, it is time to stitch from side
to side and top to bottom.
It doesn’t matter how you begin, but for this
basting, it’s fine to begin from one side and work
your way to the other side.
I find that using one piece of thread works, too.
However, instead of cutting one long piece of
thread that may get tangled, I thread my needle,
pull a length off the spool, but don’t cut the
thread off of the spool. That way, I can keep
pulling the thread off of the spool until I reach the
other side of the quilt.
Once I have reached the other side of the quilt, I
cut the thread away from the spool, leaving a tail
about 4” long. I do not tie a knot in the thread.
Baste the quilt from side to side and top to
bottom, stitching 4-6” apart.
About the Author:
Penny Halgren is a quilter of more than 27 years, and
enjoys sharing her love of quilting with others. Sign up
for her free quilting tips, quilt patterns, and
newsletter at http://www.How-to-Quilt.com
Online Quilt Magazine – Vol. 3 No. 3
© Online Quilt Magazine.com All Rights Reserved P a g e | 29
PROJECT - 9-Patch Table Mat
From www.QuiltBlockoftheMonthClub.com
Looking for a quick, fun and easy table
mat to whip up now?
This simple quilted mat has nine, 9-patch blocks
in the centre in a random assortment of blue,
turquoise, brown and grey fabrics, with plain
plum fabric sashing and border.
You Will Need:
Eighty-one, 2 inch squares for the 9-patch units in
colours of your choice. (We cut and pieced ours
separately, however this would be even quicker if
you joined three 2 inch strips together along the
length, and cross-cut at 2 inch intervals. Do a few
different combinations of strips and then you’ll
have enough block variety to separate the strips
so no two blocks are alike.)
This table mat measures 20 inches x 20 inches
Online Quilt Magazine – Vol. 3 No. 3
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½ metre ( ½ yard) plain fabric for the sashing, border and binding
Backing fabric measuring at least 23 x 23 inches square
Batting measuring at least 23 x 23 inches square
Preparation:
From the plain border fabric, cut –
Two strips measuring 2 x 17 inches for the sashing.
Six strips measuring 2 x 5 inches for the sashing
Two strips measuring 2½ x 17 inches for the border
Two strips measuring 2½ x 20½ inches for the border
Sufficient strips 2½ inches wide for the binding (at least 88-90 inches in length)
Assembly:
Arrange and piece the nine, 9-patch blocks for the mat top. Each block should be 5 inches square when
finished.
Online Quilt Magazine – Vol. 3 No. 3
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Join the blocks in rows of three with two strips of the 5 inch sashing between them. Press seams, then
join the three rows together with the 17 inch lengths of sashing.
Sew the 17 inch border strips to each side, and finally the 20½ inch border strips across the top and
bottom to complete the mat top.
Quilting:
Place the backing face down on a flat surface and
tape the edges out flat, then lay the wadding and
quilt top right side up over it, smoothing out any
wrinkles as you go. Pin or thread-baste the layers
together in a four inch grid.
Our quilt was simply machine quilted, with an in-
the-ditch row around the outer edge of each of
the 9-patch blocks. You may prefer an all-over
design.
Binding:
Join the 2½ inch binding strips with 45 degree seams. Press the ¼ inch seams open, then fold the strip in
half, right sides out and press.
Online Quilt Magazine – Vol. 3 No. 3
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Join the binding to the right side of the mat top
edge with a quarter inch seam, mitring each
corner as you go. Trim the batting and backing a
quarter inch beyond the edge of the mat top.
Turn the folded edge of the binding to the back
and slip stitch it in place with thread that matches
the binding to finish.
Project Designed By:
For more access to More than 40 Original BOM
projects for the ONE monthly membership, go to
www.QuiltBlockoftheMonthClub.com and check it
out!
Don't keep this Online Quilt Magazine
all to yourself – it's FREE, so share it
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Subscribe and receive each New Issue as
soon as it's Published!
Online Quilt Magazine – Vol. 3 No. 3
© Online Quilt Magazine.com All Rights Reserved P a g e | 33
We're pleased to be able to bring you a selection
each month of the Newest Fabric Releases and
the new season fabric "must haves".
Athill Range by Cabbages and Roses for Moda
Born in 1917, Diana Athill, namesake for this
collection, has worked as a literary editor with
some of the most important writers of the 20th
century, she is a novelist and raconteur and is
completely fascinating. In essence this collection
is brim-full of vintage English charm and the
name Athill seemed so fitting. The lovely ditzy
prints, with just the right amount of color, is
beautifully adapted by Moda and divided into
tiny, medium and larger scale prints.
Athill Range by Cabbages & Roses is available in
fat quarter bundles, fat eighth bundles, jelly rolls,
layer cakes, charm packs and yardage. Add a
touch of English classic to your home with our
Country Rose Quilt Kit!
See this range at:
http://www.fatquartershop.com/Athill-Range-Moda-
Fabrics-Cabbages-Roses.asp
What's New from The Fat Quarter Shop
From Kimberly Jolly at www.FatQuarterShop.com
Online Quilt Magazine – Vol. 3 No. 3
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California Girl by Fig Tree Quilts for Moda
This collection brings you a summer feeling; it’s a
retro 1950s playful grouping. Meant to evoke
feelings of summer, playtime, 1950s swing skirts
on the boardwalk, surf Bermuda shorts,
delighting in fresh fruit and time without a care in
the world!
With print names like Bermuda ticking, sprouts
and blueberry twigs, this collection mixes a light-
hearted array of prints with fresh, clean colors
calmed with soft creams and light greys.
Perfect for Spring and Summer projects,
California Girl by Fig Tree Quilts is available in fat
quarter bundles, fat eighth bundles, jelly rolls,
layer cakes, charm packs and yardage. Don’t miss
Fig Tree’s new patterns featuring this fun
collection!
Check out this new range at:
http://www.fatquartershop.com/California-Girl-Fig-
Tree-Quilts-Moda-Fabrics.asp
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Ten Little Things by Jenn Ski for Moda
Let’s count along with Ten Little Things, Jenn Ski’s
debut collection by Moda.
The main panel is made up of ten illustrations
with numbers and pictures - great for a child’s
quilt and will be featured in an adorable project
for a softy book for kids to practice counting and
writing their numbers.
The coordinating prints feature complementary
patterns inspired by the main design - numbers,
owls, toy trucks and other objects of whimsy.
Jenn’s designs are inspired by natural textures
with a retro esthetic, and have a fun, playful
quality that children of all ages will enjoy.
Ten Little Things is available in fat quarter
bundles, charm packs, layer cakes and yardage.
You’ll love the adorable fabric book pattern as
part of the Ten Little Things Project Sheet!
View this collection at:
http://www.fatquartershop.com/Ten-Little-Things-
Jenn-Ski-Moda-Fabrics.asp
Online Quilt Magazine – Vol. 3 No. 3
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Friendship By Howard Marcus Dunn for Moda
An 1850s friendship quilt from Philadelphia is the
ninth in a series of reproduction quilts featuring
the Howard Marcus Collection. This friendship
quilt is believed to be a wedding or anniversary
quilt.
With a cheerful red and cream color palette and
fine applique work, this quilt was made with love
and friendship for a happy occasion. The center
of each block is signed in a beautiful script further
indicating the quilter’s desire to create her very
finest work. Many of the signatures are from
members of the same family.
Help support the cause … Feeding America -
“whose mission is to feed America’s hungry
through a nationwide network of member food
banks and engage our country in the fight to end
hunger.” Friendship is available in fat quarter
bundles, fat eighth bundles, charm packs, layer
cakes and yardage. Celebrate the friendships in
your life with our Friendships Moda Quilt Kit!
See the Quilt and more fabric info at:
http://www.fatquartershop.com/Friendship-Howard-
Marcus-Moda-Fabrics.asp
Online Quilt Magazine – Vol. 3 No. 3
© Online Quilt Magazine.com All Rights Reserved P a g e | 37
I wanted to discuss toys with other ‘quilty’ cats.
I have lots of toys to chase around, but little balls
of rolled up paper are as much fun as anything. If
I carry these back to the thrower, the game goes
on longer, but I can also hit them all over the
house by myself for ages.
I have a tent (made by Mum) and a long tunnel
lined up with it. I can race the length of the
house, fly through the tunnel and into the tent -
wham! It slides across the floor or tips right over
upside down! Mum may have to make me a new
one soon. Somehow the door is torn quite a bit
on one side. Don't know how that happened.
Mum says she is going to design me a new tent
and include the pattern in a magazine soon.
My favourite chasing toys are the different sized
plastic rings from when they open a new jar of
food. Off comes the lid, then there is a new ring
to bowl over the floor. I can jump and hit them
all over the place and then carry them back to
Mum to throw up again. They smell interesting
for a while, too.
Hints and Tips From Brannie
By "Brannie" Mira-Bateman
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Dad made me a scratching post which I use a lot.
Never the furniture - except the office chair.
(Shhh! Don't remind them!)
A pair of Mum's old socks rolled up are great
thing to chase, too. When they go out and leave
me I often move "sockies" to a new place for
them to find when they come home.
When my Mum is quilting, she often uses that
slippery snake with the marks on. It finishes with
'59' in a jagged end that smells very faintly like
another cat. The holes in the end match my
canine teeth exactly. I think there has been a
previous "helper" in this sewing business.
((Mum: Has there ever!!))
Love BrannieLove BrannieLove BrannieLove Brannie,
the Quilt Block of the Month Club Cat!
Online Quilt Magazine – Vol. 3 No. 3
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PROJECT – Squirrel in a Cage Quilt
By Rose Smith from www.ludlowquiltandsew.co.uk
I love the name of this quilt block: squirrel in a cage. It’s a bold
quilt block that I’ve made in quite a large size to show off the batik
fabrics that I used.
I've also made the quilt itself quite large (76" square) because I
often get asked for patterns for larger quilts.
This is the basic squirrel in a cage quilt block and I've used three
fabrics. I made nine blocks, each 24" square and didn't use any
sashing because I didn't want to interrupt any secondary designs
that appeared - and there were plenty of them.
To make the quilt the same size you will need 1 yard of the lilac
fabric, 2.1/2 yards of the green batik and 3.1/4 yards of the purple
(this includes binding), plus batting and backing fabric.
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For each quilt block you will need eight purple squares, two green
squares and six lilac squares, all 4.7/8". These are all used to make
half square triangle units.
Place a purple square with a lilac or green square, right sides
together, and mark a line along the diagonal. Sew a seam 1/4"
either side of the diagonal and cut along the marked line. This gives
you two half square triangle units as shown.
Sew these half square triangle units together in pairs and then fours
to give a square as shown with all the purple fabric making a central
square and one green corner to each block. You'll need four of
these.
Cut four 8.1/2" by 4.1/2" rectangles in each of the
purple and green fabrics and sew these together
in pairs along the 8.1/2" length. Sew one of the
squares that you made above to each side of two
of the two strip panels. Take care that you have
the green corner of each square joining the green
rectangle. These two rows will form the top and
bottom of the squirrel in a cage quilt block.
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The middle row of the quilt block is dead easy. Cut one 8.1/2" purple
square and sew the remaining two rectangle blocks to either side of it.
The green rectangle should be attached to the purple square with the
purple rectangles on the outside.
Sew these three rows together and that's the squirrel in a cage quilt block complete. Make eight more of
them and sew them together in rows of three. Sew the three rows together to make a quilt top
approximately 72" square. As you'll see, loads of secondary designs appear which is what I love about
quilting.
I decided to leave the quilt border plain, using just
a 4.1/2" strip of the green batik to frame the quilt
top.
For the cornerstones I wanted to use part of the
quilt block design so I cut four 3.1/2" purple
squares from the leftovers and four 4.1/4" lilac
squares. Cut the lilac squares along both
diagonals and sew the resulting triangles to the
sides of the purple square.
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Sew together 4.1/2" wide strips of the green batik to make four
72.1/2" lengths. Sew one length each to the top and bottom of the
quilt top. Sew a cornerstone to each end of the remaining two quilt
border strips and then sew them to the sides of the quilt top.
That's the squirrel in a cage quilt top complete. The quilt top is now
ready for layering, quilting and binding.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
About the Author: Rose Smith was born and brought up in Zambia in Africa. She moved to the UK when she was 18 and now
lives in Shropshire, indulging her passion for quilting and sewing. She has sewn all her life - ‘anything that stood still long
enough’ in the words of her children - but now finds that patchwork and quilting have taken over her life. She indulges this
passion by posting patterns and tutorials on her website for all to share. www.ludlowquiltandsew.co.uk
LUDLOW QUILT AND SEW
Discover new and exciting projects to quilt
and sew each month with clear and easy to
follow instructions.
Visit our website and subscribe to Ludlow
Quilt and Sew’s free monthly newsletter
now.
www.ludlowquiltandsew.co.uk
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Online Quilt Magazine – Vol. 3 No. 3
© Online Quilt Magazine.com All Rights Reserved P a g e | 43
Here are some tips for attending quilt shows. It is
always a very tiring day, so here are some tips to
help you make the most of it.
* If you can get a programme for the workshops
and classes before the show, then you can plan
your day in advance. If not, when you first arrive,
study the form and take note on the times you
need to be somewhere. There's nothing worse
than discovering a workshop you really wanted to
do just finished a half hour ago. And remember
the show discount coupons too....
Get a map of the stalls and workshop areas etc.
so you know where you are going. As most
people start near the entry door and work their
way on from there, you may like to be a
contrarian and do it in reverse. This is often a less
crowded way to go around the displays.
* Comfy shoes are a must and I suggest bringing a
spare pair of very comfortable shoes to change
into after a while to give your feet a rest.
You can change back again after another few
hours. As much as we all like to dress up for a big
day out, comfy shoes will see you actually
enjoying your day without blisters or squashed
toes.
* Have an early morning cuppa and an early lunch
to avoid the crowds. Bring your own lunch and
snacks and take advantage of those Rest and
Recover areas that are often provided now.
Again, we know it's fun to have lunch out on your
day out, but to be honest, the food is often
overpriced and just not that exciting. And after
queuing for 45 minutes just to get a sandwich....
That's wasted show time! If you want to buy
lunch, consider eating lunch a little earlier, before
the rush hits!
Tips For Attending Quilt Shows…
Collated by Annette Mira-Bateman
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* Bring plenty of bags to carry things in. Soft bags
inside other bags are a good idea. Even better if
you have one, is one of those wheeled trolley
bags - you can fit a spare pair of shoes and your
lunch, AND all the new treasures you've acquired
throughout the day!
* You will really need more than one day to do
the really big shows. If you want to book into a
few workshops or classes, you mightn't have
much time to see the stalls and quilts. It is worth
taking more time if you can.
* Take a notebook to make notes on the stall
number you want to get back to. Take notes on
that workshop and always collect paperwork on
anything of interest. Read it later or at
lunchtime. (See bags above.)
* Husbands or menfolk. As very few of these are
actually interested in a single thing at the show,
preferably leave them off at a large hardware
store on the way. Offer to return for them later.
If they accompany you inside under sufferance,
then they are there to carry things, not to walk
down the centre of the aisles with their arms
folded. Please give them things to carry.
(Otherwise park them in one of those Rest areas
while you go to see interesting (and perhaps
expensive) things.)
* For small children and babies in prams -
preferably attach them to one of the above
menfolk and tell them firmly that you will see
them later at a certain place and time.
* This may be the most important tip we have too
- acknowledge that by about 3pm, you've
reached what we call 'choc-o'clock', and you
really just should do something about it!! (We
do! Daily!!! Hmmmmmm......)
This is your day out. Forward planning will
ensure you get the most out of it. Quilt shows
are fun! Enjoy!
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Still travelling, this month Pamela has sent us a
Letter from Thailand:
Dear Patchworkers-All,
Yes, it is Chiang Rai, not Chang Mai, but I’m told
that Chiang Rai is now what Chang Mai was 20
years ago – largely unspoilt by tourism.
An hour to the north by plane from Bangkok, and
only a boat-ride from Laos’ answer to Angkor
Wat, namely Luang Prabang, described (in “1000
Places to See Before You Die”) as a sleepy
backwater town and ancient Imperial Capital all
in one and it’s definitely on my Bucket List!
The local Hilltribe crafts are amazing, with the
Night Market an excellent opportunity to see and
buy. Just look at this cross-stitched jacket!
The Thai Road Less Travelled
By Pamela Davis of Patchwork Quint-essential
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With such items as this fine cross-stitch design on
black, made by the Ahka people, it is important to
factor into the asking price, the time it would take
to make it.
When that is taken into account, they are cheap
at twice the price. The colours are bright and
beautiful and the designs reminiscent of many we
use in patchwork, so an Ahka-inspired quilt would
be a fine accompaniment to a souvenir.
Then there is the folded patchwork of the
Hilltribe group known as Lisaw (Lisau), in colours
we often label as “Amish”!, and combinations
either bright as in their elaborate costumes, or
elegantly somber. Interestingly, I have always
known this style as “Thai”, but strictly speaking,
we should call it “Lisau”.
It is well worth to make the time to visit the
Hilltribe Museum on Thananol Street. It’s on the
same street as you will find the Saturday Walking
Street market - a great place to get the feeling of
Chiang Rai and pick up some clothing bargains
(incl. beautiful pashminas) as well as see some of
the local crafts and try some street food. There’s
also a Sunday walking market. A fun way to get
around is by tuk-tuk, and you will be delightfully
surprised if you ask the cost to your destination
before you board.
And yes, I did manage to find some good quality
Japanese fabric in the Municipal Market aka Clock
Tower Market. Actually there are two clock
towers in the middle of crossroads, one a white
blockish variety and the other a ‘fantasmagorical’
golden wonder, with Thai curly-cues a-plenty.
(Actually, they are representations of fingers of
the Buddha.)
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The market, which is under cover, runs between
the clock towers, and between Thairath Road and
another; to coin a phrase, “You can’t miss it”!!
Temee Road runs at right angles to Thairath
Road, and goes right through the ‘middle’ of the
market. Temee Road is what you’re looking for, if
it’s cottons you want.
One of the fabrics which particularly took my eye
was an all-over fine graph-paper design, with the
fine lines coloured in a shade darker than the
background. This sort of design is just THE VERY
BEST when it is quilted, as from a distance, the
quilting shadows are highlighted so the colour
can assume added texture quality.
I once saw a superb example of this in the
background of a naïve country-style quilt and
more recently similarly in the background of
Baltimore-style quilt. Stunning!
The range of colours in these fabrics was best in a
store closer to the Temee Road entrance. Other
fabrics there which would behave similarly are
tiny printed checks, also available in a large range
of neutrals there.
But if you enter the market from Thairath Road,
don’t think that the first few fabric shops are the
only ones. Throw timidity to the four winds, pass
the food-stalls, the fish market, the meat and
other foodstuffs and just when you can imagine
that you’ve walked half a block, on your left is
292 Chaisilpin Road, a shop owned by a
delightful Indian couple, Ramesh and his
charming wife, Sujata Vacher. They speak
perfect English and are happy to chat, which was
quite a relief as I had been managing on a sort of
sign language charade, usually effective but quite
exhausting!
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They have an interesting selection of quality
cotton prints, mostly small-design ‘Japanese’
patchwork fabrics. The patterns are often
American-inspired, but with a distinctly Japanese
touch. (They also have a few battings and
notions, like interesting bag handles.)
And the cost? At the time of writing, a mere
80THB per metre; with the AUD$ at around
30THB for one AUD$, that’s true value in
anyone’s language!
This part of the world captured my fancy – the
people are gracious, the food is scrumptious and I
even found a place to share my patchwork skills –
a dormitory to help Ahka Hilltribe children make
the most of an education, and thereby forge a
pathway for their family out of the cycle of
poverty which has been made worse by
marginalization. This dormitory is the inspiring
work by a young Australian lady!
I’ll be back ………….. The sooner, the better! And
the weather was just perfect in January.
About the Author: Pamela Davis has been an avid sewer
since she was 10 years old. Pamela’s business –
“Patchwork Quint-essential” is based in Canberra, Australia;
you can visit Pamela in her studio, or it is quite possible that
she can bring 12 boxes of exclusive Asian fabrics to you and
your patchworking friends. Just contact her on 0448 232
647, or 06292 3727 or email on [email protected]
to organize a Patchwork Party. Please leave a message, if
she is out Party-ing!!
Check out my large range of Batiks!
Contact Pamela Davis of
Patchwork Quint-essential at
Or phone Pamela on 02 6292 3727
or 0448 232 647. Please leave a message!
Remember to book your Patchwork Party Plan
timeslot; there are only so many opportunities to
play with new fabrics, hear stories about them and
have fun with your friends over a cup of tea. Get in
early!
Online Quilt Magazine – Vol. 3 No. 3
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This month, we’re continuing on with our original
design “Quilt Label of the Month” series.
As you know, it is important to attach a label to
each quilt you make with the date, your name
and details like the name of the Quilt and for
whom it was made.
Any of the story behind the quilt is always good
to add too, as that way future generations will
have more information on the making of your
quilt!
These labels will be provided as line designs, as
(with all of our designs), you will have a choice on
how you decide to make your label. Many can be
appliqued, and all can also be hand embroidered,
following the same design.
This month is our Australian Waratah Label. This
iconic native Australian Flower is a lovely bright
red, with dark green leaves.
You may like to applique this flower on the label,
or stitch the outline with two strands of
embroidery floss if you prefer.
Print the design from the following page and
enlarge if you’d like. You can then write on (or
embroider) the label details as you wish.
Enjoy!
Project – Quilt Label of the Month
From www.QuiltBlockoftheMonthClub.com
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This month’s block is the lovely pieced Aunt
Dinah Block. It is a stand-alone block by itself, or
repeat the block for some different secondary
patterns on your next quilt.
To make this 9 inch block as shown, you will need
3 different fabrics, and once you have rotary cut
the pieces according to the Cutting Diagram, you
can piece them together as shown.
Block of the Month
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Today’s Tips:
We’ve got some fab tips this month sent in from
our readers. Thanks very much, and if you have
any others you’d like to share, please send them
to me at [email protected]
* A hint that I use in my quilting classes. If you
poke your finger & get blood on your quilt take a
small piece of fabric (or bunched up thread ) wet
it with your saliva amd rub on the spot. The
enzymes in the saliva will wash off the blood. If it
is your blood it also has to be YOUR saliva.
- Yvonne, Prince Edward Island, Canada
* Today I started a hanging for our church. I had
to make 4 flying geese for each block. The fabric
that needed to be marked from corner to corner
was dark and hard to see the marking. I folded
and pressed corner to corner instead, and easily
followed the fold line. As long as one has good
lighting this works.
- Shirley, Canada
* I have read in my magazines about strips for
joining batting. This product doesn't seem to
have reached New Zealand yet but even if it did it
would probably be expensive. I hate joining
batting by sewing!
Recently I had a large bed quit (destined as a
special gift for my sister's 60th birthday and their
40th wedding anniversary) professionally quilted
and since the quilt had to go to England weight
and bulk was an issue. I felt that the
professional's batting was too heavy for the
purpose and preferred to use my own thinner
batting which had to be joined.
I decided to try very fine iron on vilene so cut
strips about 2 inches wide, lowered the heat on
the iron and joined the strips. It was much
quicker than sewing and very effective. I would
suggest straightening the edges as I found the
selvedges of my batting were quite uneven and
quite thin in places too. Hope you find this
useful!
- Anne, Christchurch, New Zealand
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* Here is a tip I use in applique. I save all my dryer
sheets after use. I draw the pattern onto the
wrong side of my fabric. Place the fabric on top of
the softener sheet and sew all around the design.
Cut an opening in the softener sheet and turn
inside out. Edges are turned and ready to sew.
Also leaves your quilt with a nice fresh smell.
- Barbara, Florida, USA
* Since I was using silicone caulk (the clear kind)
for some bathroom touch-ups, I put some on my
quilting rulers. Works wonders, they don't slip
around.
Hat pins and corsage pins work as stiletto's too.
My stiletto kept rolling off my machine although
it was not entirely round handled. The other
day I wrapped a small rubber band around it
,voila! it says put now.
- Shirley, Dawson Creek, BC, Canada
* When you finish making a quilt, use some of the
scrap fabrics to make a "pillow case" for the quilt
to be stored in when it's not in use.
You may even like to add a zip to close the top, to
keep your quilt dustproof. Not only do the fabrics
help you identify which quilt is in the bag, but
should the quilt need repairs, you can use the
fabrics in the dust cover!
- Sharon, Sydney, Australia
* A free motion quilting tip:
The saleslady who demonstrated the darning
foot, when I bought my sewing machine,
suggested that a failsafe method for good free
motion quilting is to have a glass of white wine
before you start, to help you relax and loosen up!
- Elizabeth, Western Australia
Online Quilt Magazine – Vol. 3 No. 3
© Online Quilt Magazine.com All Rights Reserved P a g e | 56
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"Quilt-y" Sayings…
• Quilts made with love age with
time, but never lose their warmth.
• Slow Moving Seamstress: Fast
Moving Thread & Needle!
• You may admire my dust, but
please don't write in it!