PHM March 2012

The world of personal care ingredienTs

PUREHealthMagazine

COSMETICCAPITAL

purehealthmag.co.uk

March/april 2012

HAIR CARESPRING SHOOTS

PUTTING TRESSES TO THE TEST

fORmUlATIONTHE POWER Of mOTHER NATURE

SENSORY SENSATIONS

SKINCAREfROm BOTOX TO NO-TOX

lIGHT AT THE END Of THE TUNNEl

INSIDE THE INDUSTRYmAKING SENSE Of THE SCIENCE

fEEDING THE TRENDS

coMesee Us aT in-cosMeTics

sTandMh6

Sun CareAakoSun UV-filter range

ORGANIC UV-FILTERSAvobenzone (BMDBM)

Benzophenone 3 & 4Ethylhexyl Salicylate

OctocryleneOctyl Methoxycinnamate

INORGANIC UV-FILTERSTitanium Dioxide

AUXILIARY RAW MATERIALSC12-C15 Alkyl BenzoateDihydroxyacetone (DHA)

THE COMPLETE RANGE FOR PROTECTION

www.aako.nl P.O. Box 205 | 3830 AE Leusden | The Netherlands | +31 (0)33 494 84 94

Sun CareAakoSun UV-filter range

ORGANIC UV-FILTERSAvobenzone (BMDBM)

Benzophenone 3 & 4Ethylhexyl Salicylate

OctocryleneOctyl Methoxycinnamate

INORGANIC UV-FILTERSTitanium Dioxide

AUXILIARY RAW MATERIALSC12-C15 Alkyl BenzoateDihydroxyacetone (DHA)

THE COMPLETE RANGE FOR PROTECTION

www.aako.nl P.O. Box 205 | 3830 AE Leusden | The Netherlands | +31 (0)33 494 84 94

Aako was founded in 1945 and established itself as a distributor for speciality chemicals in Europe, North Africa and Middle East. Trough consistent investment in its employees during these 65 years it has become synonymous with the phrase “chemistry with people”

Aako is currently active in the following markets: detergents, cosmetics (sun care, hair care, personal care), industrial and home care, coating specialties, crop protection, pharma, industrial chemicals and fragrances.

We would like to distinguish ourselves as a distributor of UV-filters by offering suntan lotion manufacturers in Europe the best price to quality ratio and a guaranteed and stable delivery and service.

Much importance is attached to the need for proper protection against sunlight and European regulations impose strict requirements on suntan lotion products. Our UV-filters conform to this development and aim to contribute to the manufacture of safe suntan lotions for consumers.

Our expertise and customer-orientated services in sales and marketing, logistics, product development, regulatory affairs and finance has helped to secure long-term close co-operations with many global suppliers and customers.

Aako offers specialized expertise in meeting customer demands: our “chemistry with people” values mean that we offer much more than the chemical for now — or even for the future!

Please feel free to contact us by phone or by email on [email protected] for further information

2012 MARCH/APRIL 3

CONTENTSEvENT PREvIEW05 Cosmetics in the Catalan

Capital

IN-CONTEXT08 The Latest in-cosmetics

News and Updates

HAIR CARE16 Putting Tresses to the Test

Jo Smewing

18 Spring shoots

Dr S. Gokulshankar

ANTIAGEING20 Turning the Tide of Ageing

Anat Stern

fORmUlATION 22 The Power of Mother Nature

Tony Abboud

24 Sensory Sensations

Dominik Schneider

SKINCARE28 The Light at the End of the

Tunnel

Dr Sam Robson

30 From Botox to No-Tox

Dr Dapeng Zhang

INDUSTRY TRENDS32 Feeding Cosmetic Trends

Manfred Axterer

lAST WORD 34 Sense about Science

Dr Theresa Callaghan

In thIs Issue...March/april 2012

30

18

16

24

Registered Office: Via Media UK Ltd 145-157 St John Street, London, EC1V 4PW, UK.Publisher endeavours to collect and include complete, correct and current

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CREMER OLEO GmbH & CO. KG • Glockengiesserwall 3 • D-20095 Hamburg

Phone +49(0)40/3 20 11-0 • www.cremer-care.com

Inspired by nature

Please visit us at In-cosmetics Barcelona, 17–19 April 2012,Booth M 59

In response to the growing demand of natural ingredients Cremer Care focuses on natural solutions from reliable sources coming from all over the world.We offer a wide range of natural as well as organic certifi ed products.

With CremerTIMOLA®, our new product with particularly calming, soothing properties we address formulations for demanding and sensitive skin.CremerTIMOLA® ’s uniqueness relies on one of the central ideas of Cremer Care: to combine the preservation of indigenous knowledge about plants with potential for cosmetic applications and the promotion of sustainable use, the creation of employment opportunities, as well as an adequate benefi t sharing with local communities or individuals.

Additionally, Cremer Care strengthens its ester competence: CremerCOOR®, DYNASAN®, IMWITOR®, MIGLYOL®, SOFTISAN® … are our outstanding ester-based specialities for your cosmetic products.

Innovative Solutions

Active Ingredients

Multifunctional Products

MCT-Oils

Vegetable Oils

Soap Noodles

Anzeige_210x149mm.indd 1 16.03.12 11:13

2012 MARCH/APRIL 5

EVENT PREVIEW

COSMETICS in the CATALAN CAPITAL

As one of Europe’s

most beautiful

cities and the

heart of Spain’s

€7.8 billion

cosmetic market, Barcelona

seems particularly suited

to its role as the host of this

year’s largest personal care

ingredients event, set to take

place from April 17–19 at the

Gran Via exhibition centre. As

ever, the business opportunities

for companies will be plentiful:

more than 500 world-class

suppliers of new and innovative

cosmetic ingredients and

services have already signed up

to attend the event — 3 months

before the show begins. Industry

heavyweights such as Croda,

DSM, Lubrizol and Merck will

once again have a presence,

alongside in excess of 50 first-

time exhibitors, originating from

countries as diverse as Bulgaria,

China, Korea and Switzerland.

‘Solar beauty’ will be the

theme of 2012’s in-focus feature

and will have a larger role to

play than any previously. Echoed

through the entire event, it will

navigate visitors through the

complex solar beauty labyrinth. A

full-scale innovation platform has

been designed to help industry

players to evaluate the latest

developments and anticipate

future trends. Its programme will

include a dedicated scientific

seminar on sun protection and

panel discussions on consumer

education and nanoparticles. A

special man-made beach area,

designed to trigger new ideas

and provide an original setting

for networking opportunities, will

form the centre piece of in-focus

this year. A beachside photo

gallery illustrating the evolution of

sun care advertising through the

last 60 years will be accompanied

by a skin clinic highlighting the

damage that exposure to the

sun can cause, an interactive

video on nanotechnologies and

exclusive insights into how to

innovate using social networks. A

dedicated ‘solar trail’ will clearly

highlight the exhibitors with solar

beauty projects on their stands for

visitors making their way around

the show.

in-cosmetics group marketing

manager, Cathy Laporte,

commented: “Last year’s show

in Milan was packed with

professionals looking to source

mARKETING TRENDS PROGRAmmE

Tuesday 17 April10:30–11:15Opportunities in Skin Care: Exploring Specialty ActivesNikola Matic, Project Leader, Kline11:45–12:45in-focus “Solar Beauty” Panel DiscussionE-communication – A Major Challenge in Sun Protection13:15–14:00Sense About Science: The Role of Marketing in Cosmetic Clinical Trials and the Impact on Consumer (Mis) Understanding.Dr Theresa Callaghan, Owner, Callaghan Consulting International, Hamburg, Germany.14:15–15:00Men’s Toiletries — The Slumbering Giant — How to Awaken It?Will King, Founder & CEO, The King Of Shaves Co. Ltd15:45–16:30Natural & Organic Cosmetic Brand Naturalness RatingsAmarjit Sahota, Founder and Director, and Judi Beerling, Technical Director, Organic Monitor18:00–20:00in-cosmetics Innovation Zone best ingredient awardsCosmetics & Toiletries R&D Awards.

Wednesday 18 April09:45–10:30Solar Logic: Innovation and Insight in Sun ProtectionNica Lewis, Mintel11:00–12:00Exploring the Future of Nano Protectionin-focus “Solar Beauty” Panel Discussion12:30–13:15Future M&A Trends and Drivers Across the Personal Care Value ChainEric Vogelsberg, Senior Vice President, M&A and Corporate Development Practice, Kline13:45–14:30Exploring (New) Paradigm Shifts in Global BeautyIrina Barbalova, Head of Beauty and Personal Care, Euromonitor International15:00–15:45How to Translate Future Trends into Innovation for Raw Materials Suppliers.Antoinette van den Berg, Designer, Leading Spirit and Founder, Future-Touch16:15–17:15Niche Brands Building for SuccessLive Interviews conducted by Angelika Meiss, Editor-in-Chief, Cossma

Thursday 19 April09:45–10:30The Sensory and Indulgent Side of Personal CareMark Whalley, Senior Analyst, and Michaela Peck, Analyst, Datamonitor11:00–11:45Finding the Sweet Spot of NutricosmeticsEwa Hudson, Head of Health and Wellness, Euromonitor International12:15–13:00From Facebook to Face Creams — Exploring Social Media Channels and their Impacts on Beauty BrandsWendy Lewis, President, Wendy Lewis & Co Ltd, Global Aesthetics Consultancy13:30–14:15Recreating the Mall Online: How to Make Social Shopping Truly BeautifulAmy Kean, Head of Consumer Innovation, MPG Media Contacts

IN-CONTEXT

6 MARCH/APRIL 2012

the newest products and

latest developments from the

world’s cosmetic and personal

care industry and all the early

indicators are that the 2012

exhibition will be even more

impressive. We have already

booked 11,600 m2 of floor space

— the largest ever area for the

event — meaning that it will

exceed the record-breaking

2011 show. The educational

programme features are also the

most diverse yet and this year’s

in-focus theme of solar beauty

will provide an exciting addition

to the event, tying in perfectly

with the setting of Barcelona.”

SHINING A lIGHT Other highlights include the

hugely popular innovation

zone, which presents some of

the latest ingredients launched

by exhibitors and the most

innovative beauty products

selected by Mintel Beauty &

Personal Care. This will also

include the best ingredient

award, which recognizes

the most innovative and

original ingredients in the

INNOvATION SEmINAR PROGRAmmETuesday 17 April10:30–11:00Proteins Re-Evaluated: A Greener Way to Achieve Active Benefits for CosmeticsTRI-K Industries11:00–11:30Novemer EC2 – New Multifunctional Liquid Polymer for High Performance Skincare SystemsLubrizol Advanced Materials Europe BVBA11:30–12:00A Liposoluble Active to Protect and Repair Skin Erythema and Barrier Function LossInnovacos Corp.12:00–12:30An Interlude with Seppic: Trends 2012–2013SEPPIC SA12:30–13:00 A New Biomimetic Ingredient of the Skin Hydrolipidic Film: Clinical BenefitsB&Tcompany – The HallStar Company13:00–13:30Galaxy SunBeat: A Unique Water-Soluble Sunscreen Galaxy Sufactants13:30–14:00 ‘Skin Radiance:’ How to Characterize and Measure ItSilab14:00–14:30A presentation by BASF Beauty Care Solutions14:30–15:00 A New Generation of Technologies for the Treatment of Damaged HairCroda15:00–15:30A presentation by Naturex15:30–16:00Composite ACT-50: A UV Powder for Efficient and Safer SunscreensKOBO Products, Inc.

16:00–16:30Performance and Aesthetics in Natural BrandsInolex16:30–17:00 Vitipure – Coming Closer to the Fountain of YouthClariant International Ltd17:00–17:30New Polymer Technology for Water ResistanceDow Personal Care17:30–18:00Purasal Mild: Natural, Cost-Effective Mildness Enhancer for Rinse–Off Personal Care ProductsPurac

Wednesday 18 April09:30–10:00Gemmonova: A Bud Extract Enhancing Skin Beauty Jan Dekker International 10:00–10:30Innovative Claim Support for Refreshing, Cooling and Soothing Products proDERM GmbH10:30–11:00Multi-functional Marine Active Ingredient as a Gentle Alternative to AHAsAqua Bio Technology ASA11:00–11:30 DermCom — An Activator of Epidermal-Dermal Communication for Deep Skin RejuvenationMibelle Biochemistry12:00–12:30Natural Active Ingredients from Plant Stem Cells to Preserve Skin FunctionsIRB12:30–13:00The Lenitive and Photoaging Preventing Properties of a Unique Asian ExtractIndena S. p. A.

13:00–13:30New Tilamar Fix A140 – Combining Ultimate Hold with Fast Drying for the First TimeDSM Nutritional Products Ltd13:30–14:00Innovative Natural Fibres Blend as Emulsifier/ThickenerBerg + Schmidt (GmbH & Co.) KG14:00–14:30Sustainable Sensory – Development of New Natural Cosmetic ParticlesEvonik Industries AG14:30–15:00The Beauty Bar: The Future of Top-to-Toe Cleansing in Bar and Solid FormatsInnospec15:00–15:30The Fast Way to Get Rid of WrinklesRAHN AG15:30–16:00A presentation by Rhodia16:00–16:30Using Pathways in Plants to Increase Bilirubin Degradation and Decrease Under-eye Circles Lonza AG16:30–17:00A presentation by Beraca 17:00–17:30CremerTimola, Bulbine Frutescens Leaf Extract, Indigenous Plant Knowledge for Personal CareCremer Care17:30–18:00Innovative Preservation Solutions for Today’s FormulatorLonza AG

Thursday 19 April09:30–10:00 The CeeTox Repeat Dose Systemic Toxicity PanelCeeTox, Inc. 10:00–10:30Japanese Traditional Fruit Extract, AGEs Crosslinks Breaker, Improve the Aged SkinMaruzen Pharmaceuticals Co. Ltd

10:30–11:00Style and RelaxBASF11:00–11:30Sebum and Acne Manifestation Control by Quillaja Saponins: Objective Evaluation of PerformanceISPE srl11:30–12:00Novel Molecular Approach to Sensitive Skin Lipotec12:00–12:30Innovation for Natural Cosmetics 2: Viewing a Range of Amino Acid Technology Ajinomoto OmniChem N.V12:30–13:00New Type of Silicone Emulsifiers and Ingredients Used in Personal Care ApplicationsBioMax Si&F New Material Co. Ltd13:00–13:30Disrupt Photoaging — Breakthrough Zeta Fraction Technology From Living PlantsAkzoNobel Global Personal Care13:30–14:00Innovative Anti-ageing Tetrapeptide for the Prevention and Treatment of Skin AgeingMiwon Commercial Co. Ltd14:00–14:30Preservative Effects of Zemea Propanediol, a Natural Glycol ReplacementDuPont Tate & Lyle BioProducts14:30–15:00How Can Nature-derived Texturizers Answer the Main Trends of Personal Care Industry?Cargill France SAS15:00–15:30Direct Accelerated Stability Tests for Cosmetic Products by an Innovative TechnologyLUM GmbH

72012 MARCH/APRIL

show. Suppliers will present

free innovation seminars

highlighting products that

have just entered, or will

soon enter, the market and

workshops, scientific seminars

and free marketing trend

presentations delivered by

industry experts will focus on

the latest topics of widespread

interest.

Highlights of the marketing

trends programme include

a session led by Nicola

Matic, project leader at

Kline & Company, entitled

“Opportunities in Skincare:

Exploring Speciality Actives,”

focusing on new trends in the

market. Later that day, Will King,

founder and CEO of The King of

Shaves brand, will speak about

maximizing opportunities for

companies in his presentation,

“Men’s Toiletries — the

Slumbering Giant — How

to Awaken It.” Nica Lewis, a

global skincare analyst with

Mintel, will take a close look at

the event’s key theme in “Solar

Logic: Innovation and Insight in

Sun Protection.” Ewa Hudson,

head of health and wellness at

Euromonitor International will also

chair a discussion on “Finding the

Sweet Spots of Nutricosmetics,”

which will highlight the increased

popularity of less conventional

beauty solutions and explore

potential developments in

this area.

Those keen to find out more

about the latest ingredients

and formulation techniques

can do so this year through

the 40 innovation seminars.

Designed to provide first-hand

knowledge of the most recent

launches, the seminars will

cover a wide range of topics

and include a variety of talks,

such as “Proteins Re-Evaluated:

A Greener Way to Achieve

Active Benefits for Cosmetics”

by TRI-K Industries, “The Lenitive

and Photoageing Preventing

Properties of a Unique Asian

Extract,’ presented by Indena

S.p.A. and “Composite ACT-50:

A UV Powder for Efficient and

Safer Sunscreens’ by KOBO

Products, Inc.”

Experts will also discuss one

of the most dynamic fields in

the industry during the scientific

seminar “Cosmetogenomics

— At the Cutting Edge of

Cosmetic Science,” featuring

contributions from VitroScreen,

the University of Bradford,

Laboratoires Expanscience

and the Institute for Health and

Consumer Protection of the

JRC, European Commission.

Attendees will learn about the

latest gene expression studies

and discover how proteomics

techniques can help in

understanding the mechanisms

of efficacy and safety. Following

this, “Alternative (Non-Animal)

Methods for Cosmetics Testing,”

will delve into the impact of the

ban on animal testing scheduled

for 2013. Featuring contributions

from industry professionals and

concluding with a round table

and discussion on possible

alternatives, this session will

be essential for any business

that stands to be affected by

changes to existing legislation.

On 19 April, a formulation

workshop entitled “Green

Formulations: Overcoming the

Technical Hurdles,” will highlight

fOR mORE INfORmATIONVisitors registering before 16 April will receive free entry to the show. For more information on registering, visit www.in-cosmetics.com.

SCIENTIfIC SEmINAR PROGRAmmETuesday 17 April14:00–18:00Spotlight on Sun Protection (a Solar Beauty Seminar)

Wednesday 18 April09:30–13:00Cosmetogenomics – At the Cutting Edge of Cosmetic ScienceFeaturing contributions from VitroScreen, the University of Bradford, Laboratoires Expanscience and the Institute for Health and Consumer Protection of the JRC, European Commission. 14:00–18:00Alternative (Non-Animal) Methods for Cosmetics Testing With experts from the European Centre for the Validation of Alternative Methods (ECVAM), the Centre for Alternatives to Animal Testing – Europe (CAAT-EU), CeeTox and AgenoLab.

fORmUlATION WORKSHOP PROGRAmmEThursday 19 April09:30–13:00Green Formulations: Overcoming the Technical HurdlesJudi Beerling, Organic Monitor

Following its success at last year’s exhibition in Milan, and more

recently at in-cosmetics Asia, the innovation zone will also make a return.

the major technical and

formulation issues associated

with such products, providing

practical advice and solutions

to cosmetic and ingredient

companies. Judi Beerling,

technical research manager at

Organic Monitor, will lead the

workshop, with the primary aim

of providing practical advice for

organizations looking to obtain

certification in new and organic

cosmetic standards.

Following its success at last

year’s exhibition in Milan, and

more recently at in-cosmetics

Asia, the innovation zone will

also make a return. Featuring

product demonstrations and

packed with more than 50

new product launches, it is the

best place to find inspiration

for new product launches

and many companies have

already signed up to exhibit

their latest innovations, including

Ceetox, Gattefosse, Lonza

and Unipex. The innovation

zone best ingredient award,

which recognizes the most

groundbreaking development

at the show, is a central part of

the feature, with the winners

being announced in the

marketing trends theatre on the

17 April from 18:00–20:00. PHM

8 MARCH/APRIL 2012

IN-CONTEXT

CARING CRODACroda (stand G30) will introduce three biomimetic solutions for today’s science-savvy consumers. The next generation of biomimetic keratin — Keramimic 2.0 — combines the best of science and nature to offer intelligent, targeted repair for the most damaged areas of the hair’s surface, delivering outstanding hair conditioning and feel. Collasurge, a new marine collagen-based moisturizing active, allows manufacturers to respond to the surge in consumer interest in collagen, whereas the Cystine Hair Smoothing System showcases a range of innovative biopolymers in four hair care formulations specially designed to create straight, shiny and manageable hair. The company is also proud to unveil a new and innovative hair conditioning agent, KeraDyn HH. Proven to deliver ‘healthy hair dynamics’ to damaged hair, the ingredient provides the hair care sector with a new, exciting marketing platform for the next generation of products. It is possible to establish the health of hair by the way it moves and KeraDyn HH (supported by a global data package) has been designed to boost the dynamics of damaged hair, enhancing fibre alignment and reducing friction between hair strands to encourage freedom of movement.

Croda will also introduce visitors to two more initiatives: the company’s new novel emollient, a 100% naturally derived ingredient that is a sensory alternative to squalane and the emulsion textures kit, an innovative sample kit demonstrating the unique textures that can be achieved through the combination of carefully selected emulsifiers and emollients. The kit takes an in-depth look at the influence of emulsifiers and emollients on the texture and sensorial properties of a system. Boasting more than 30 years of experience in developing, formulating and testing UV filters, Croda will be expanding their extensive portfolio of sun protection ingredients. Committed to meeting global sun care trends with locally tailored sunscreen actives, Solaveil XT-40W is a new globally-approved UV filter, whereas Solaveil AT-300 has been developed to make meeting the FDA requirements for broad-spectrum protection ‘as easy as ABC.’

Croda will also be presenting their Solaveil physical shield campaign, a socially responsible approach to educating consumers about the importance of sun protection. In a world in which consumers demand to be increasingly informed and assured, the Solaveil physical shield campaign can promote confidence and add value to sunscreen and beauty products. With a fun and interactive website, a host of PR activities and an ongoing social media marketing strategy, Croda aim to inform, generate awareness and communicate the message that when the sun comes out, so should Solaveil. In addition, Croda will introduce Versathix, an exceptionally versatile rheology modifier that provides excellent thickening in traditional and sulphate-free systems, coupled with shear thinning rheology (especially important in bath and shower gels) and has no impact on foaming.

Further to this wide range of launches, Terraquat BD — a new, ultimately biodegradable hair conditioning agent with an excellent aquatic toxicity profile that mirrors the performance of traditional conditioning agents — will also be launched. This environmentally friendly product provides conditioning and detangling properties to hair care formulations and claims to show great formulation versatility, being suitable for use in shampoos, conditioners and styling agents. Croda will also take part in the in-cosmetics solar beauty trail, which will feature globally approved ingredients to create formulations suitable for global trends, locally tailored solutions to comply with differing regulatory requirements needs and socially responsible approaches to inform consumers about the importance of sun protection (www.croda.com).

HOT STUffSetalg (stand G50), a French company specializing in natural marine ingredients and private label cosmetics, will be presenting its exclusive range of natural products, including rinse-off/peel-off masks and wraps, marine muds, clays, bath salts and scrubs. Praised for their high quality, the company offers three types of products: peel-off and rinse-off bases, standard formulations and product customization and claim to use their unique know how to adapt texture, active ingredients, colour and fragrance to suit customer requests. In addition, Setalg delivers bulk or customized individual packaging.

A ready-to-use concept that does not require the addition of water, the company’s microwavable mask is 100% natural and used for its heating properties. The extremely light weight and boosting effect of this formulation is said to bring real added value to professional treatments by increasing their activity and attractiveness. Its unique heating properties stimulate the optimal opening of skin pores, better penetration of actives, feelings of instant relaxation and exceptional lightness. The formulation’s fatty base and heating effect encourages a better penetration of actives and a sense of well-being (www.setalg.com).

A BREATH Of fRESH AIRAkzoNobel have launched a new line of completely sustainable bioactive ingredients that aim to bring unparalleled benefits to antiageing skincare. The range will be defined as ‘fresh approaches’ to emphasize its originality, inventiveness and innovation and will comprise a host of sustainable ingredients and solutions that will be introduced throughout 2012 by the global personal care arm of AkzoNobel Surface Chemistry (stand N30). In keeping with this theme, the company will showcase its Recentia plant serum fractions — a new line of bioactive ingredients based on breakthrough Zeta Fraction technology. This patented technology brings an entirely new level of performance, efficacy and differentiation to antiageing skincare.

Recentia CS, the first Zeta Fraction active ingredient to be introduced, capitalizes on the powerful, biologically active substances contained in the fresh leaves of the Camellia sinensis tea plant. This ingredient targets the multiple biological pathways associated with both internal and external stress on skin. For the first time, potent anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, free-radical-scavenging and photo-stabilizing activities are combined in a single ingredient to protect skin from the root causes of photoageing.

Zeta Fraction technology selectively isolates intracellular components from fresh, living plants and marine sources to produce bioactive ingredients able to capture the powerful synergy that exists within plant cells. The result is a wide range of multi-targeted benefits that are superior to those obtained through conventional plant extraction technology. In addition, the ingredients only include naturally occurring, unmodified substances and are therefore completely sustainable, reproducible and safe (www.akzonobel.com/personalcare).

This patented technology brings an entirely new level of performance, efficacy

and differentiation to antiageing skincare.

10 MARCH/APRIL 2012

IN-CONTEXT

BREAKING THE CODEAs individuals age, negative expressions such as frowns have a tendency to become set as the skin loses its elasticity and positive expressions lose their structure as the skin starts to sag. Whereas crow’s feet are considered to be smile wrinkles, forehead lines harden the gaze and deepening nasal furrows, with the appearance of circumoral wrinkles, indicate bitterness. In young women, high cheekbones and a tapering chin form what is called a triangle of beauty. In older women, however, forehead lines and nasal furrows delineate an inverse triangle of beauty. Natural ageing of the skin is the result of a slow, progressive and genetically determined process and, with age, the genes that code for the synthesis of the dermal structural molecules — elastin, collagen and hyaluronic acid — enter a ‘sleeping phase.’ As a result, the dermal matrix loses its structure and the skin reduces in firmness, causing long-term lines to become ‘fixed’ and wrinkles accentuated. To help to fight this genetically programmed inversion of the triangle of beauty, Codif Recherche et Nature (stand C20) has developed an extract of fertile bases of Undaria pinnatifida called Matrigenics.14 G. This new active ingredient is rich in Wakamic ester and works to reactivate genes that are lying dormant.

Undaria pinnatifida, also referred to as Wakame, is a brown macroalga that originates in Asia, where it is grown on ropes and eaten. Codif Recherche et Nature cultivates Wakame in a protected area of the Rance estuary in Brittany on a system of submerged ropes. Undaria pinnatifida is characterized by tissues known as fertile bases or Mekabu, which contain the spores by which the species reproduces. The fertile bases represent a concentration of life that not only ensures the reproduction of the algae but its survival across the centuries. To assess their antiageing benefits, the company isolated them from the rest of the alga to extract their compounds. Their laboratory has discovered a sulphated galactofucan — Wakamic ester — which is not only able to activate the genes involved in the synthesis of the extra cellular matrix (collagen, elastin and proteoglycans), but also their anchoring and organization into the matrix, for a wider restructuring effect. The antiageing effect of Matrigenics.14 G was measured on forehead lines, nasal furrows and circumoral wrinkles following 14 and 28 day treatments. After 14 days, significant decreases in the volume (23.8%) and area (14.4%) of the forehead wrinkles were measured. After 28 days, the volume and area of the nasal furrows were seen to decrease by 8% and 9%, whereas volume and area of the circumoral wrinkles were decreased by 18% and 16%, respectively (www.codif-recherche-et-nature.com).

IN AND OUT APPROACHESLipotec’s (stand K20) nutricosmetic brand, Insidetec, is set to introduce two new oral formulations: Invertage and Inhydrate. Based on the Mediterranean diet, Invertage capsules contain functional nutrients that are well known for their beneficial effects in collagen protection and the prevention of oxidative stress — thus preventing skin from the most visible signs of ageing. Food grade ingredients in Inhydrate capsules have proven efficacy in improving skin moisture from the inside out by enhancing barrier function and protecting cells from dehydration.

The products are supported by Lipotec’s expertise in molecular cosmetics and efficacy tests have proven the antiageing and moisturizing benefits of this novel approach. Depth of wrinkles decreased by 51% after 30 days of combining the intake of Invertage capsules with the topical application of a cream containing 5% Trylagen, Lipotec’s key collagen-boosting ingredient. Skin hydration increased by 156% after 56 days of combining Inhydrate Capsules with a 2% Diffuporine hexapeptide cream, which not only increases skin hydration but also induces collagen I synthesis and keratinocyte proliferation. Furthermore, novel peptides from Aimtec targeting sensitive skin, in addition to new antiwrinkle biotech active ingredients from Biointec, will be among key products launched at in-cosmetics (www.lipotec.com).

REAl BEAUTY COmES fROm WITHINVerisol, the bioactive collagen peptides from GELITA (stand W55), stimulate skin metabolism and thus substantially increase the synthesis of collagen, elastin and proteoclycans, with the effect of noticeably reducing wrinkle formation. Asian women have long since recognized the value of collagen to promote beauty but in Europe and in the USA consumer knowledge is principally derived from the claims made for topical cosmetic applications. Collagen peptides are still rather rare as an ingredient in dietary supplements or nuticosmetics, although it is becoming evident that this trend, established in Asia, is moving westwards and ‘beauty from within’ is finding a place as a major global cosmetic trend. Verisol, which is administered orally, directly influences the skin metabolism from the inside, stimulating fibroblasts in the dermis to increase the synthesis of collagen, elastin and proteoclycans, all of which are vital for balancing skin elasticity — and thus for improving skin condition. The ingredient is a pure collagen protein with excellent bioavailability that can be easily incorporated into a wide variety of products; from pharmaceutical-like applications such as capsules or tablets to dietary supplements and indulgence products such as chocolate or beverages. Visit the GELITA stand to be convinced that Verisol can contribute to the success of your product range (www.gelita.com).

mIlD CARE fOR SENSITIvE SKINIndividuals’ well-being can be greatly affected by the condition of their skin — and this is causing to more and more consumers, especially those with sensitive skin, to seek nourishing and soothing products. To help manufacturers to meet these demands, BASF’s (stand D40) care chemicals division has launched Cetiol RLF, its first light emollient produced using an enzymatic process that is derived solely from renewable feedstocks, proven to be mild on sensitive skin and kind to the environment. During the last 5 years, products with marketing claims relating to sensitive skin and environmental benefits have significantly increased their share of the personal care market and — owing to its light texture, rapid absorption and smoothing effect on the skin — formulations containing Cetiol RLF are ideally suited to products that carry such promises.

It is widely known that the sensorial properties of a cosmetic product are influenced by the spreading properties of emollients; Cetiol RLF is a fast-spreading emollient that gives products a pleasant and light skin feel with a crystal-clear appearance and a light natural odour. This makes it an attractive component in a modern skin care formulations and, as such, it is suitable for use in a wide variety of mild products. Dermatological tests done on a group of individuals with sensitive skin confirmed that it does not even irritate sensitive skin after tape stripping and under exaggerated test conditions. BASF’s (www.basf.com) emollient can therefore be described as suitable for babies, children and adults with sensitive skin — even for those with atopic skin. In addition to this, the new ingredient is ideal for products that claim a high content of natural ingredients as it is made from 100% natural renewable feedstock and catalyzed with enzymes; a new process that helps to reduce emissions and ensure high quality. Additionally, the emollient is approved by Ecocert, certified by NaTrue and the National Products Association (NPA) and recommended for concepts that accord with BDIH and COSMOS. Fabio Triggiani, part of the personal care marketing division, explains: “Cetiol RLF helps to satisfy the needs of consumers with sensitive skin and address the desire for products of natural origin. Its proven mildness, along with its hydrating effect and light skin feel, can enhance people’s sense of well-being.”

Marine biotechnologyfor sustainable cosmetics

Lipotec’s active ingredients in BiointecTM are

naturally occurring in non-genetically modified

organisms, which are used to manufacture

cosmetic ingredients through biotechnological

means. The result is a sustainable production of

actives from the sea while preserving the

environment, since there is no harvesting

or extracting from nature.

Visit us at ourstand K20

Lipotec LLC2500 Plaza 5Harborside Financial CenterJersey City, NJ 07311 - USATel: (+1) (201) 633.46.62Fax: (+1) (201) 484.72.01Cell : (+1) (201) 744.64.28E-mail: [email protected]

AAFF_pmsa_Biointec_210x297_LPTC_150212.indd 1 15/02/12 9:16

12 MARCH/APRIL 2012

IN-CONTEXT

THE BEAUTY Of TECHNOlOGYStable Micro Systems (stand B60), a world leader in texture analysis and powder flow instrumentation, will be showcasing its new comprehensive texture analysis package at the show. This extended capability is the result of the company’s expertise in the cosmetics industry, ongoing research and close collaboration with its global customer base. The package incorporates a redesigned TA.XTplus texture analyser that boasts new accessories for bespoke applications and improved ease of use. The software suite features an ‘education zone,’ which offers users a wealth of application material, an extensive library of technical information, published academic papers and valuable insights into the optimum choice of probes and fixtures. Existing customers can access a free software upgrade to benefit from the improved functionality of the newly-launched package.

Stable Micro Systems’ unique approach is founded on research, rigourous testing and cutting-edge product development and it believes that its latest developments underscore the company’s position as a pioneer in texture analysis. Its approach has been encapsulated in its new corporate strapline: ‘innovation, education, application.’ With applications in R&D, product development and quality control, this new texture analysis package is ideally suited to testing ingredients, finished products and cosmetic packaging. Typical tests include measurement of gel strength, lipstick break strength, soap hardness and flow properties in powders and creams. The TA.XTplus can also be used to quantify cosmetic benefits and substantiate product claims. The effect that shampoos and conditioners have on hair softness, for example, can be determined by measuring tensile strength, combing forces and extensibility of hair strands after being treated with a particular product.

Stable Micro Systems prides itself on superior post-purchase technical, instrument and application support and training. Dedicated technical experts and knowledgeable distributors on every continent provide advice and assistance to formulators and manufacturers as they address the challenges of new product development and consumer satisfaction. Mark Proto, managing director at Stable Micro Systems, commented: “We are pleased to be launching our new texture analysis package to the industry at in-cosmetics. Innovation, education and application are fundamental to our long-standing success in developing analytical instruments and accessories tailored to the challenging applications of the cosmetics industry.” He continued to explain that “this new texture analysis package delivers precise and reliable measurements for a wide range of cosmetic studies. We are committed to developing our products and applications in partnership with customers and maintaining our technical support and application guidance throughout the product’s life span.” Representatives from the company will be available on its stand to answer texture analysis product and applications questions (www.stablemicrosystems.com).

DOW-N WITH THE INDUSTRYThe Dow Chemical Company (stand Y30) will feature a broad range of products from its personal care, microbial control and performance additives sectors. Visitors will learn how its businesses provide distinct advantages to numerous segments within the industry; from eye products and colour cosmetics to conditioners, shampoos and styling products, in addition to skincare, bath and shower and sun protection products. Eunice Heath, global general manager of Dow Home & Personal Care, described the company as “excited to participate in the in-cosmetics trade show to showcase our broad portfolio of technologies — especially three new products that we’re launching this year. Through close collaboration with customers, Dow strives to deliver new technologies that set our customers’ products apart from the competition.”

New products to be launched include EPITEX 66 Polymer, a water-resistant polymer for skin and sun care applications, ACUDYNE Shine, a hair styling polymer offering outstanding shine in high VOC hair sprays and EcoSense Surfactants, a new family of plant-based, biodegradable surfactants for use in shampoo and skin cleansing applications. In addition, Dow Personal Care will present an innovation seminar for the show’s educational programme and a live demonstration as part of the innovation zone feature.

Dow Microbial Control, a leader in the field of preservation that offers options for both leave-on and rinse-off personal care formulations, will feature a wide range of products, including paraben- and formaldehyde-free solutions. Additionally, visitors can learn more about the Dow Microbial Control customer application centre’s offerings to customers, which include performing tests to evaluate and optimize biocides, solving customer problems, delivering customized solutions and offering product development services, bringing them the latest innovations from global and local R&D centres. Each of these application centres contains dedicated application and challenge-testing laboratories with best-in-class equipment, including TAUNOVATE High Throughput optimization. With its globally approved, broad spectrum NEOLONE and KATHON preservatives, Dow Microbial Control is uniquely positioned to offer high-performing actives and formulations designed for personal care and cosmetic applications. The business has developed application testing that clearly demonstrates the exceptional performance benefits of AMP-ULTRA PC specialty neutralizer in a range of hair styling products. Today’s consumers lead hectic lives and expect their hair products to keep up with their lifestyle; Dow Performance Additives will showcase personal care neutralizers that can maximize the performance of hair styling products, skincare, eye care and sun care applications (www.dow.com).

CRèmE DE lA CRèmE Cremer Oleo (stand M59) has assumed control of the operations of the Witten facilities from the Sasol Group in an attempt to establish the company as Europe’s leading manufacturer of oleochemical speciality esters. The business wishes to place particular emphasis on their MCT oils, which fall under the brand names CremerCOOR and MIGLYOL and find widespread use in the food, pharmaceutical and cosmetic segments. The company has achieved a unique position as the world’s only manufacturer that operates high-performance mono plants exclusively for the production of MCT oils and GMP-certified production in two completely independent facilities. In addition, it offers a wide selection of technical grades (such as C7, C8 and C10), attends to sustainability issues (boasting coconut oil-based products, Ecocert certification and membership of the RSPO) and ensures compliance with a multitude of quality standards (including ISO 9001 and ISO 22000, Kosher, Halal, EP and GMP). These offerings are complemented by a broad spectrum of ester-based specialities, including CremerCOOR, DYNASAN, IMWITOR, MIGLYOL, SOFTISAN and WITEPSOL, which have a variety of uses in human and animal foodstuffs, the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries and technical applications. Depending on their composition, they serve as emollients, emulsifiers, solubilizers and consistency builders, acting as essential elements of customer-specific end products and playing an instrumental role in guaranteeing their quality, stability and safety.

Multifunctional production lines, a multitude of follow-up processes including a state-of-the-art, multi-step short-path distillation, several flaking and pelletizing lines and more than 100 years of experience in the manufacture and application of special oleochemical products, enable Cremer Oleo to offer customers solutions to meet their specific needs. The company believes that backwards integration for the most important basic raw materials, integral dovetailing of the activities of its Witten and Wittenberge facilities and the lean structures of a medium-scale enterprise means it is excellently positioned in the global marketplace. Through this acquisition it hopes to create long-term synergies and, in combination with a broad spectrum of active ingredients, vegetable oils, soap noodles, fatty acids, fatty alcohols and glycerines from the Cremer Care portfolio, position the company as an all-round system provider for the cosmetics manufacturing sector (www.cremer-care.de).

IN-CONTEXT

14 MARCH/APRIL 2012

polysaccharide that is obtained by bacterial fermentation. It plays the role of an anti-adhesive protective cover (a “Teflon-like” effect). It also helps to modulate the resultant inflammatory response generated by microbial stress and works to decrease feelings of discomfort.Solabia will also be presenting the result of its research into enzymatic biocatalysis: Viniderm. This ingredient is obtained through a patented bioconversion process, which converts resveratrol found in the grapes of Languedoc Roussillon into delta-viniferin to gain a higher antioxidant concentration than is found naturally on the vine. Delta-viniferin is then associated with other polyphenols found in grape juice to give the final ingredient, Viniderm, a double efficiency. It both preserves the skin’s youthfulness by protecting stem cell niches and mitochondrial DNA and reduces the signs of ageing by redensifying the extra-cellular matrix. The active ingredient is free from preservatives and accords with ECOCERT standards and is approved for use in China (www.solabia.com).

INDENA GO IN-DEPTH Indena (stand T50) will present Centevita, a purified dry extract obtained from Centella asiatica, a perennial, polymorphous, creeping herbaceous plant belonging to the Apiaceae (Umbrelliferae) family. The extract is a food grade ingredient (solvent and contaminant), that only uses water and ethanol as solvents and is composed of almost 45% triterpenes, including madecassoside, and approximately 5.5% polyphenols and is Ecocert validated. It is therefore suitable both for nutricosmetics and green cosmetic formulations that require anti-inflammatory, antiageing, antioxidant and firming activity. The extract is also certified Kosher, Halal and GMP. The ingredient’s sustainable production process, beginning with the collection of Centella leaves in Madagascar, forms part of Indena’s commitment to creating and maintaining long-lasting relationships with local entities and populations.The Centella asiatica purified dry extract production process, which starts from the Centella leaves collection in Madagascar, is part of the Indena commitment to create and maintain long lasting relationships with local entities and population. The company will also present Bosexil; the Phytosome form of frankincense extract (a perfumed resin obtained from the Indian plant Boswellia serrata), which is rich in anti inflammatory and soothing active molecules, known as boswellic acids. A recent clinical study has underlined the soothing effect of the extract on sensitive skin as well as in more dermatologically severe conditions such as eczema and psoriasis. Additional trials have indicated that the ingredient’s combination of DNA-protecting and anti-inflammatory properties may counteract photoaging and could be a new approach to counteract the inflammaging process (www.indena.com).

TAKING TEXTURE TO THE mARKETLeading global chemical distributer, Univar Inc. (stand D20), has announced plans to intensify the focus of its personal care business on textures as part of the expansion of its business portfolio and technical capabilities. Philippe Villequey, personal care industry development manager, at EMEA explained: “Univar Personal Care’s offering has always been strong when it comes to textures. It is an important area of formulation because if a product’s texture is poor, it will not appeal to consumers. With new ingredients constantly being introduced to the market, customers can find it challenging to ensure a consistent and pleasing texture in their products. We have the product portfolio and technical formulation expertise to help our customers to overcome this obstacle and create textures

that end-consumers will love.”The company will be showcasing a number of exciting formulations at

the stand’s sensory bar, which will demonstrate the range of its texture palette. Innovations on display will include a new silicone gum from XIAMETER (PMX 1502 FLUID) and new products from Dow Corning, including two elastomers that provide enhanced compatibility with organic ingredients (Dow Corning EL-8052 IH Silicone Organic Elastomer Blend and Dow Corning EL-7040 Hydro Elastomer Blend). The innovation zone will feature Dow Corning EL-7040 Hydro Elastomer Blend, which, compared with traditional silicone

elastomers, provides enhanced formulation flexibility through its ability to incorporate high levels of water and/or glycerine while retaining

a gel structure and the typical elastomer feel. The stand will also showcase new products launched recently by Dow Personal Care, such as EcoSmooth Satin Conditioning Polymer and Ecosmooth Silk. The

A SUSTAINABlE COmmITmENTLaboratoires Prod’hyg (stand W40) are extending their environmental policy and compounding their commitment to local populations by working to tackle malnutrition in Burkina Faso. The company will be promoting ProdhylemGae, a cosmetic antiageing ingredient derived from locally produced algae, spirulin. Produced on the Petit Seminaire farm in the village of Koudougou, this highly proteinic blue alga is widely distributed to the local population as a food supplement. The formulation and innovation department of Laboratoires Prod’hyg has also launched a hydro-glycerinated extract of this Spirulina Platensis dedicated to the antiageing personal care products. The success of this ingredient in a cosmetics formula will in turn help Laboratories Prod’hyg to support local NGOs and help to promote the autonomy of the local African families (www.technap-spiruline.com).

SOlABIAIts development of pre- and probiotic active ingredients has made Solabia Research (stand P15) a key player in microbial ecology and the company is now offering a complementary mechanism of action. This new approach centres on inhibiting the adhesion of undesirable or pathogenic bacterial strains that are associated with body odour, acne, atopic dermatitis and sensitive skin. Unlike the antibacterial products that are commonly used in the cosmetic industry, this alternative strategy addresses the needs of the cutaneous Ecosystem and the skin’s natural defenses, such as the Ecoflora (microbial saprophytic flora). Teflose is a natural, rhamnose-rich, branched

THE SCENT Of SUSTAINABIlITY Earthoil Plantations (stand H30), the cosmetics ingredients division of Treatt plc, will exhibit its latest range of ethically sourced cosmetic ingredients. Among the items highlighted will be exciting new fruit seed oil ingredients for the cosmetic formulator: Organic Sour Cherry Seed Oil and Guava Seed Oil. The company will also be showing two essential oils from its new Japanese range and an extended range of Eartholates, its innovative, natural, pure organic aromatic isolates. These unique ingredients will give cosmetic formulators a wider palette to use when developing new products. Organic Fair Trade Shea Butter, part of Earthoil’s (www.treatt.com) comprehensive range of vegetable oils, will also be featured.Demand for products that contain natural, organic, ethically-sourced ingredients continues to grow — and more developers are welcoming traceable pure raw materials as a means to help them to strengthen their position in the competitive ethical marketplace. Earthoil recognizes the industry’s need for reliable high-quality sourcing of natural ingredients in cosmetics and therefore maintains clear operational standards in growing, handling, storage and distribution.Earthoil works closely with its technical staff, certifiers, processors and growers to ensure that its products meet the most exacting quality standards. The company’s engagement with some of India and Africa’s poorest farming communities has also been welcomed, both for its provision of income and for community projects that are undertaken and funded by the Earthoil Organic Farms Foundation (EOFF).

152012 MARCH/APRIL

www.aquabiotechnology.com Stand No. N40 Presentation on 18th April, 10:30-11:00 Innovation Seminar Theatre 1

Aquabeautine® XL

The Natural and Gentle Skin Refinisher

A patented marine solution derived from “red caviar”, a gentle enzymatic alternative to AHAs proven to correct 6 signs of aging in vivo.

company’s dedicated personal care specialists will be on hand at in-cosmetics to demonstrate how Univar is able to simplify the complex textural issues common to the industry, as well as showcasing the company’s comprehensive range of personal care ingredients. Building on its global network of laboratories, technical expertise and shared best practice, Univar is able to offer its partners in the sector access to the latest products and innovative concepts from around the world (www.univar.com).

ECO EffICACYIRB (stand X36) will be launching a new concept in plant stem cell ingredients: Powerful Stems. Its distinctive features include the characterization in a cell-line specific pattern of secondary metabolites and a guaranteed minimum amount of specific active substances. The titration of actives becomes the objective measure of the efficacy of plant stem cells and a reliable way of quantifying eco-sustainable benefits of this technology. This concept is the result of long and demanding R&D work that has established the biotechnological HTNTM platform as a viable and eco-friendly alternative source for the production of plant actives. IRB will also introduce Buddleja davidii stems GTM, which is now available with a standardized content of Verbascoside — a potent secondary metabolite that can to protect the skin against UVA damage owing to a wide spectrum of characteristics that include antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, photoprotective and chelating properties. Since 2011, Leontopodium alpinum stems GTM has featured a guaranteed minimum amount of leontopodic acid A, one of the natural protective substances that allow Edelweiss, a rare plant growing in the Alps, to survive its native harsh environment. Leontopodic acid A is a strong antioxidant phenylpropanoid — three times more efficient than vitamin C — the very small natural presence of which has only recently been isolated in the plant (www.irbtech.com).

BREAKTHROUGH COSmETICSDSM (stand Q16) will launch a breakthrough hairspray polymer, TILAMAR

Fix A140, which combines the ultimate hold with fast drying for the first time. Hairspray users worldwide are seek fast-drying products that can maintain a chosen style all day long. DSM’s (www.dsm.com) innovative new polymer enables rapid drying in combination with low tack — despite the formulation’s increased water content — and it’s hold properties have outperformed leading market benchmarks in professional hairdresser tests. This combination of fast drying and ultimate hold creates attractive new opportunities for product development and further insights into the ingredient will be presented at DSM’s innovation seminar.Following last year’s successful launch of REGU-FADE, the company will present new consumer-relevant data on the deep hydration power of its key skincare ingredient, PENTAVITIN. Although millions of consumers worldwide are buying moisturizing products, various consumer surveys indicate that they often fail to meet expectations, particularly in how long they last. As a result, dry skin continues to be the primary unmet body skincare need worldwide — and PENTAVITIN, a 100% natural, plant-derived ingredient, addresses it. Owing to its unique affinity to corneocytes, PENTAVITIN ensures instant, deep hydration and generates a moisture reservoir that lasts for at least 72 hours, strengthening the epithelial barrier and creating sustainable soft and smooth skin.DSM is also addressing the sun care theme and introducing its new ultimate UV protection concept, based on its leading UV filter brand, PARSOL, which boasts a long history of innovative and high-performing UVA and UVB filters. As a leading global supplier of UV filters, DSM offers a new approach to the ultimate UV protection for beach and day care products and claims that PARSOL offers unique benefits for consumers, as well as unmatched formulation know-how and technical support for customers. Jörg Richter, DSM’s senior director of global marketing in personal care, commented: “We are proud to showcase our latest developments in sun, hair and skincare products, which demonstrate our dedication to delivering innovations that truly make a difference to consumers.”

16 MARCH/APRIL 2012

HAIR CARE

For many people,

luxurious locks are

their crowning glory

and a source of great

pride and pleasure.

Personal grooming is an area that

appears to be fairly recession-

proof; in fact, in 2010, the buoyant

UK hair care industry reached £709

million.1 Even when times are hard,

consumers want to look their best

and often see personal toiletries

and cosmetics as affordable treats.

Shampoos, conditioners and

hair treatments have overcome

their commodity status and are

increasingly being released under

luxury brand names, commanding

premium prices. However, amidst

the flurry of advertising claims that

promise salon-quality hair care, the

efficacy of many products on the

market remains uncertain.

THE lOOK AND fEEl Of BEAUTYSoftness is generally held as a

sign of healthy, well-conditioned

hair — but how is hair softness

objectively determined? A recent

study by T. Gao et al. set out to

establish the impact of personal

care products on the physical

characteristics of hair by measuring

the bending force of a hair bundle

as an indicator of a hair sample’s

softness. Stable Micro Systems’

texture analyser TA.XTPlus was used

to determine the bending modulus

of Caucasian dark brown hair,

Oriental black hair and bleach-

damaged hair samples, in addition

to comparing results before and

after the application of hair

treatments.

PREPARATION AND TESTINGTo prepare the samples, tresses of

hair were gathered from each of

the three hair types and divided

into two bundles — one to undergo

treatment, the second to be

used as a control. For the tests

themselves, the texture analyser

was used in a modified three

point bend mode. The hair bundle

was clamped at one end and

the remaining length placed on

two supports before the analyser

probe descended vertically on

the sample, applying pressure

to the central section of the hair

bundle to determine its maximum

bending force (Figure 1). After ten

movement cycles for each hair

bundle, the average bending

force was calculated. Tests were

done on each hair sample at

a controlled temperature and

humidity and the researchers

looked into the effects of cosmetic

treatments on changes in bending

force after different shampoo

treatments and relative

humidity (RH) levels.

A SOfT SPOT fOR HEAlTHY HAIRFirst, Gao and his team examined

the effects of humidity on hair

softness and tests revealed that

the effect of moisture levels varies

between hair types. Its greatest

effect was on commercially

bleached hair, which has a more

porous hair structure —and thus

higher water absorbency — as

a result of the bleaching process

(Figure 2). Hair samples across the

board became softer as humidity

levels increased.

The second aspect of the

study looked into the effects of

bleach oxidation and hair care

products on clean, virgin and

PuttingTrESSES THE TESTJo Smewing, business development director at Stable Micro Systems, looks at an objective and non-destructive method that manufacturers can use to evaluate the effectiveness of hair care products. A new study deploys analytical technolog y that enables the industry to substantiate ambitious marketing claims about shampoos and conditioners that promise to leave hair soft and manageable.

to

Figure 1: Determining the maximum bending force of hair. Figure 2: The effect of moisture levels on different hair types.

commercially bleached hair by

comparing the bending force of

the hair samples before and after

treatment. The virgin hair samples

were immersed in a bleaching

solution of 6% hydrogen peroxide

for 30 minutes, washed with tap

water, dried overnight and soaked

in a hair conditioner containing

Quaternium-91 (derived from

hydrogenated tallow products).

The key components of this hair-

softening ingredient — di-alkyl

imidazoline quaternaries — have

superior softening properties that

have been used for some time in

fabric softeners. Quaternium-91

is now being applied to personal

care applications in which softness

is also of value. Analysis showed

that oxidation occurring during

the bleaching process reduced

softness and increased the

average bending force of newly-

bleached hair by 7.5% — however,

application of the conditioning

treatment was associated with a

16% reduction of this force. These

results demonstrate that bleaching

decreases the softness of hair but,

by conditioning, this effect may be

reversed and hair softness actually

improved.

In contrast, the bending force

of commercially bleached hair

samples was reduced by 27% after

being treated with the conditioner,

demonstrating that oxidation is

more severe in hair that has been

frequently bleached during a

long period of time (Figure 3).

Regular bleaching dries out the

hair, making it brittle and prone

to friction; as a result, it generates

static electricity, meaning that

severe hair surface damage

is characterized by a greater

prevalence of negatively charged

sites that affect the overall softness.

Quaternium-91 treatments carry

positively charged quaternized

surfactants (quats) that remain

on the hair via electrostatic

interactions. Positively charged

when placed in a solution of water,

these ingredients are attracted

to the negatively charged,

damaged protein sites on the

hair and this positive/negative

interaction prevents them from

being removed. On contact with

hair, they coat the fibres to reduce

static charges, improve shine and

protect it from future damage to

result in a smoother, softer feel to

the hair. This is supported by the

texture analysis measurements,

which reveal that commercially

bleached hair showed the largest

improvement in softness following

conditioning treatment.

Finally, the researchers

compared the softening

effects of two

shampoos, one of

which contained

Quaternium-91. Of ten virgin

dark brown hair samples, half

were treated with a commercial

shampoo, which resulted in a

15.7% drop in bending force. The

other half, treated with the test

shampoo, demonstrated a 19.2%

fall in bending force. These results

showed the shampoo containing

Quaternium-91 clearly improved

hair softness.

CONClUSIONFollowing tests to determine the

bending force of hair samples

under different treatment

conditions, texture analysis was

recognized as a suitable method

for scientifically evaluating the

softening performance of hair care

products. The results revealed that

oxidation following hair bleaching,

in addition to heightened

environmental moisture levels

owing to humidity, has a significant

effect on the measurable

bending force, particularly where

damaged hair is concerned.

Manufacturers now have a means

to truly substantiate the persuasive

beauty claims that so appeal to

consumers. PHM

REfERENCES1. Mintel, “Shampoo, Conditioners

and Treatments, UK, April 2011:” www.mintel.com.

fOR mORE INfORmATIONJo SmewingBusiness Development DirectorStable Micro Systemswww.stablemicrosystems.com

172012 MARCH/APRIL

Figure 3: The effects of bleach oxidation and hair care products on clean, virgin and commercially bleached hair.

HAIR CARE

18 MARCH/APRIL 2012

The simplest means

of addressing the

issue of hair loss is

to substitute and

camouflage lost

hair through the use of wigs but,

owing to their indiscretion, they

have a limited rate of acceptance

by sufferers. More effective and

less obvious, hair weaving and hair

transplantation exist as alternative

modes of managing the problem.

This efficacy, however, comes at

a financial cost which is all too

often too high for the average

person to bear. Among the known

hair growth promoting agents,

Minoxidil-based preparations are

supported by reliable scientific

evidence and clinical trials, but

their performance is nevertheless

hindered by side-effects and the

continuous drug dependency

that is required to minimize hair

fall. As the search for newer and

more acceptable hair growth

promoting agents continues, one

study has turned to traditional

medicinal knowledge for

alternative solutions.

The study in question, conducted

for Dr JRK’s Siddha Research

and Pharmaceuticals Pvt Ltd,

investigates the claims made

by the ancient Indian medical

practice, the Siddha system of

medicine, for the unique hair

growth promoting properties of

several medicinal plants. The effect

of a study gel containing extracts

from these plants was examined

and compared in its effectiveness

with a 2% Minodixil formulation in

an experimental animal model.

Extracts from Phyllanthus

emblica, Bergamiia koenigii,

Lawsonia alba, Indigo tinctoria

and Eclipta prostrate have long

been associated in the Siddha

system with promoting hair

growth and providing benefits

such as improved hair condition,

reduced hair fall and prevention

of the premature greying of hair.

A previous study had confirmed

that the use of a cream and oil

based on the same active plant

ingredients increased the protein

synthesis responsible for hair growth

through mRNA expression. This

study went one step further; the

extracts were individually prepared

in coconut oil in accordance with

traditional Siddha methods and

mixed to obtain a poly herbal oil.

This oil was subsequently included

as a constituent active ingredient in

a hair gel preparation and studied

for its hair growth promoting effects.

THE EXPERImENTWister rats of both sexes were used

for the non-invasive, non-sacrificial

study that received approval

from an ethical committee. The

animals, which were divided into

four groups of six, were situated in a

rat house that was set to 24–25 °C,

SPrINg SHOOTS

The importance placed on scalp hair as a key component of beauty has resulted in the regulation and promotion of hair growth being a matter of huge importance to younger and middle-aged populations worldwide. Of the variety of problems associated with hair loss, male-type baldness, alopecia and telogen effluvium are just three of the most distressing examples. The regulation

of hair growth depends on a host of complex factors of both intrinsic and extrinsic origin and, despite

its potential impact on individuals, it is currently managed using methods that

remain unsatisfactory. A recent study has harnessed traditional

knowledge and pitted it against clinically

accepted hair technolog y.

Should rapidity of growth come at the price of potential allergic reactions

and drug dependency?

192012 MARCH/APRIL

provided with food and water ad

libitum and received an equal

portion of the day/night cycle.

The hair of the dorsal portion of

each animal was removed with a

standard depilatory cream and

the four groups were treated as

follows; the first with a placebo

gel, the second with the study

formulation, the third with the

2% Minoxidil formulation and

the fourth served as a control.

The relevant test materials were

applied to each group once daily

for a 30 day period.

The pattern of hair growth

was observed in all animals. Hair

growth initiation time (HGIT), which

pertains to new hair growth in the

depilated area that is identical to

the rest of the hair on the body,

and hair growth completion

time (HGCT) were also recorded.

Results revealed that the poly

herbal gel reduced HGCT by

30%, compared with the 53%

reduction in time brought about

by the Minoxidil formulation. The

placebo did not effect hair growth

completion time in comparison

with the control, suggesting that

the plant extracts worked to

increase the speed of hair growth

in the subjects.

THE RESUlTSThe results of this study allow

several interesting conclusions to

be drawn. Most obviously, they

reveal that the study formulation

gel has a positive effect on

hair growth that is comparable

with a 2% Minoxidil application.

Although in comparison the

herbal formulation appears to

have a limited effect, it may

actually exhibit a similar activity

that is overlooked in the murine

model, providing as it does only

qualitative indications of efficacy.

Furthermore, a difference was

recorded between the quality of

the hair grown in the two groups;

the texture of the hair grown

after treatment with the study

formulation was soft, silky and

shiny in comparison with that in

the Minoxidil treated group which,

though rapidly grown, was thin

and highly irregular. In addition

to this difference in quality, the

side-effects associated with the

continued use of Minoxidil must

be considered; should rapidity

of growth come at the price of

potential allergic reactions and

drug dependency?

The recorded effects are

attributed by the scientists

involved to hair root enhancement

brought about by the study

formulation, a theory supported

by the aforementioned previous

study. The fact that the plant

extracts contained in the poly

herbal gel have a long history of

use in various healthcare practices

means it can be assumed that

they may be used safely and

effectively in managing hair fall

problems. Although it remains for

further studies to be undertaken,

these results may mean that future

responses to hair loss may be

effective, economically viable

and avoid the pitfalls of drug

reliance. PHm

AUTHORS• J.R. Krishnamoorthy, Dr JRK’s Siddha

Research and Pharmaceuticals Pvt Ltd, Chennai, India

• R. Sumithira, Department of Microbiology, Dr MGR-Janaki College of Arts and Science, Chennai, India

• S. Gokulshankar, Microbiology Unit, Faculty of Medicine, AIMST University, Kedah, Malaysia

• M.S. Ranjith, Microbiology Unit, Faculty of Medicine, AIMST University, Kedah, Malaysia

• S. Ranganathan, Dr JRK’s Siddha Research and Pharmaceuticals Pvt Ltd, Chennai, India

• B.K. Mohanty, Pharmacology Unit, Faculty of Medicine, AIMST University, Kedah, Malaysia

fOR mORE INfORmATIONDr S. GokulshankarFaculty of MedicineAIMST [email protected]

This article is based on a paper originally published in the Journal of Applied Cosmetology 28(4), 147–151 (2010).

ANTIAGEING

MARCH/APRIL 2012

Eventually, it was

revealed that

the microalga’s

cells emit a

polysaccharide to

their immediate surroundings,

creating a unique protective

environment that allows it to

flourish. These environmental

fluctuations are also inflicted

on human skin and lead

to ageing and loss of

vitality; to combat this, the

polysaccharide’s natural

protective effect on algae

is being mimicked to benefit

skincare. After establishing

its structure and bio-physical

properties, in addition to its

positive effects on the skin,

Professor Arad developed a

patented cultivation process

of Porphyridium sp. for the

production of Alguard — a

purified form of the protective

exo-polysaccharide.

UNIqUE BIOPHySICAL PrOPErTIES

During their proliferation

stage, algae cells undergo rapid

duplication and do not produce

the polysaccharide; only in their

resting phase do they release it

into their surroundings to create

an active shield. This protective

environment helps to counter

the extreme environmental

changes typical to its habitat:

salinity shifts, temperature flux,

exposure to strong light and UV

irradiation intensity. An experiment

conducted on algae cells in

their proliferation stage showed

that although they could be

damaged when exposed to high

light intensity, this was prevented

by the external addition of the

protective polysaccharide,

imitating its natural production by

the resting cells. This indicated that

the algae survival mechanism is

achieved through the work of the

polysaccharide, rather than being

linked directly to the algae cells.

This protective role is attributed

to its unique and complex

structure, which is still only

partially known. It is a large

hydrogel hetero-polymer with

a molecular mass of 3–5 x 106

Da. Its structure is composed of

70–80% natural sugars (such as

xylose, glucose and galactose),

20% bioactive groups (mainly

sulfated monosaccharides, plus

glucoronic acid) and 5% integral

glycoprotein, which is non-

covalently bound to the molecule.

Rheological studies indicate

that the polysaccharide has a

folded, flexible helical structure

and exhibits high viscosity at low

concentrations, which is important

in creating a viscous environment

in the cell proximities and enabling

it to be highly active in very low

concentrations.

It is also characterized by

a delicate balance between

negatively and positively

charged active groups, which,

in combination with its flexible

structure, allows the molecule

to remain organized when

smeared or pressed onto a

surface. This is a contrast with

other polysaccharides, which

will typically become loose

and disorganized under these

conditions. The complex,

balanced structure results in

different interactions within the

molecule, which accounts for its

stability in changing conditions.

Thus, its composition and rheology

are very stable at a range of

temperatures (up to 1600 °C), pH

(2–9) and salinities.

SUSTAINABLE grOwTHFrutarom utilizes this

polysaccharide (through a

patented cultivation system

of Porphyridium sp.) to benefit

cosmetic applications. For robust

growth in its initial stages, the

algae are cultivated in a strictly

controlled indoor environment of

artificial sea water that contains

only minerals and nutrients. As

production of the polysaccharide,

rather than algae growth, is the

aim of this process, the algae

are not harvested at this stage

but moved outside to begin

a stationary growth phase in

specially designed sleeves that

are exposed to the unique

climate conditions. The changing

temperatures and intense light

induce the algae to utilize

nutrients and minerals to produce

the protective polysaccharide

shield.

As they grow, the algae turn

a vivid red colour, although it is

the viscosity of the water that

is monitored rather than the

rate of growth itself. The point of

maximal viscosity indicates that

the polysaccharide production

has reached the desired level

and it is physically separated from

the water in a natural purification

process. These processes are

natural, environmentally friendly

and do not involve the addition

of any reagents or exploit natural

resources. On the contrary, algae

growth utilizes carbon dioxide as

part of polysaccharide production

The ocean tidal zone is an extreme environment in which only a select few species are able to survive and flourish. One of these is Porphyridium sp. red microalga — and it took more than 20 years of research (led by Professor Shoshana Arad of Ben Gurion University) to uncover the secret of its survival.

Algae growth utilizes carbon dioxide as part of the polysaccharide production and produces oxygen, which

is released into the environment

Turning THE TIdEAgeingOF

20

212012 MARCH/APRIL

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cept

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We’re taking a (super)critical look at extract quality

FLAVEX® Naturextrakte GmbH · [email protected] · www.flavex.com

A5 quer-4c-D-F-E:Layout 1 07.09.2010 15:23 Uhr Seite 3

fOR mORE INfORmATIONAnat SternProduct Manager Cosmetic [email protected]

and produces oxygen, which is

released into the environment.

The final product is Alguard, a

water-soluble, white/beige viscous

hydrogel with a silky texture. The

purification process separates it

from the surrounding water, which

guarantees that it contains only

the polysaccharide and allows

the biological mimicking of the

active shield for skin protection

applications. Some biomass

products claim to contain 40–50%

polysaccharide in their dry mass;

however, this will not typically

be as water-soluble as Alguard

and will be without the unique

structure and qualities that make

it easy to handle and allow it

to be combined in almost all

formulations and production

processes.

COSMETIC APPLICATIONSIn a similar manner to its

protective role in nature, Alguard

has beneficial effects on the

human skin, possessing both

long-term protective effects and

immediate visible lifting effects.

The former are attributed to the

creation of an organized mesh

when the ingredient is smeared on

the skin, which offers protection

from the following: irritants and

oxidative damage that lead

to a process of inflammation

and accelerate skin ageing;

UVB radiation damage and

the accumulation of bacteria.

An example of this effect was

seen when culture cells were

exposed to the strong abrasive

agent, FeSO4; whereas this would

usually result in cell damage, cells

protected by Alguard remained

viable and intact.

From the first application,

Alguard claims to promote

a visible lifting of the skin by

homogenously adhering to

its surface so that, as water

evaporates, the association

between polysaccharide chains

is increased, resulting in a lifting

of fine lines and wrinkles and a

reduction of skin roughness. When

80 µL of 5% Alguard was applied

to the crow’s feet of 10 women,

a 20% decrease in wrinkle length

and depth and a 24% reduction

in skin roughness was observed

as early as 30 minutes after

application. The effect remained

stable for at least 60 minutes

(Figure 1).

To conclude, after extensive

research Alguard’s unique

properties — naturally evolved to

protect the algae from extreme

environmental changes — were

shown to confer similar protection

against different aggressors,

on the human skin. A unique

production process, developed

to obtain this protective, water-

soluble polysaccharide, resulted in

an easy to handle ingredient that,

owing to its unique properties,

can be combined in almost all

formulations. This combination of

an anclient algal survival secret,

undeniable effects, sustainable

growth and an ecologically

sound production process make

Alguard a truly unprecedented

development. PHm

Before After 30 minutes

Figure 1: The effects of Alguard on crow’s feet.

FORMULATION

22 MARCH/APRIL 2012

Plants have evolved

oleosomes

throughout

millions of years as

structures to store

and protect the energy source

(namely vegetable oil) that

drives the germination process.

They are found naturally in all

oil-bearing seeds, including

oilseeds (such as safflower

and sunflower) and nuts

(almonds, for example). These

microspheres are spheres

of 1–3 µm and consist of an

inner core of triglycerides

and antioxidant vitamin E,

surrounded by a monolayer of

phospholipids and encased

in an oleosin protein coat.

Oleosins are 25 kDa proteins

that include both hydrophilic

and hydrophobic domains

and lend extraordinary

emulsification ability to these

structures. Natural ingredients

supplier Botaneco has

developed and patented a

large-scale manufacturing

process, which has recently

been certified as organic

by the USDA NOP, to isolate

oleosomes from a variety of

seeds.

POWERfUllY mIlDAs a result of their unique

structure and oleosin protein

coat, oleosomes function as

broad HLB natural emulsifiers

and can be used to prepare

virtually any type of personal

care emulsion. Their operational

HLB typically ranges from 5–15,

with an optimum of 8–13. The

most powerful grade, obtained

from safflower seeds, is capable

of emulsifying at a ratio of 1:3,

allowing formulators to make

emulsions using a 5% Oleosome

ingredient for a total oil phase

of 20%, with no synthetic non-

ionic emulsifiers. Furthermore,

they have been shown to

exhibit transient emulsification.

This unique attribute results

in formulations that are

exceptionally mild on the skin — a

stark contrast with low molecular

weight synthetic non-ionic

emulsifiers, which can penetrate

the skin and cause TEWL.

These outstanding

emulsification benefits can

be leveraged in moisturizers,

cleansers and even mineral

sunscreens, where (incorporating

non-nano ZnO and TiO2)

oleosomes aid the dispersion of

pigment to reduce whitening on

the skin, in addition to providing

an intrinsic water-resistant film

without requiring film formers or

polymers. For example, an SPF50+

formula with oleosomes (018-111)

has passed 80 minute water-

resistance in vivo and is classified

as broad spectrum.

POwEr MOTHEr NATUrETheOleosomes are naturally occurring microspheres of plant seed oils and vitamin E that function as powerful, clinically mild emulsifiers and proven delivery systems of actives. They can also be leveraged to boost SPF values in traditional (organic) daily wear skin products and to reduce whitening and provide water-resistant benefits in natural mineral sunscreens.

of

2012 MARCH/APRIL 23

INGREDIENTS Wt %

PHASE A

Carthamus tinctorius (safflower) oleosomes + water (Hydresia SF2, Botaneco)*

11.50

Ethyhexyl methoxycinnamate (Uvinul MC8o, BASF)

2.00

Fragrance 0.50

PHASE B

C12-25 alkyl benzoate (Finsolv TN, Innospec Active Chemicals, LLC)

5.00

Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789, DSM)

0.50

PHASE C

Di water qs

Preservative qs

Ammonium acyloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer (Aristoflex AVC, Clariant)

1.10

*Hydresia PE can be used at 10%

1. Mix phase A under a propeller mixer for 20 minutes at 400 rpm.

2. Premix phase B, heat to 40 °C and slowly add to phase A.3. Add phase C in order of appearance.4. Slowly add water and increase speed to 600–700 rpm.5. Add preservative and adjust pH if needed to 5.5–6.0.6. Finish with Aristoflex AVC, mix for 20 minutes or until uniform.

Figure 1: A 016-147 SPF30 daily moisturizer.

protection of oil actives from

degradation, the gradual release

of oil actives into the skin and

prolonging the on-skin residence

time of fragrances or essential oils.

Oleosomes can also be

leveraged in the formulation

of traditional daily wear

products with enhanced UV

protection to provide dramatic

SPF-boosting advantages.

Botaneco has discovered that

when UVB chromophores (such

as octylmethoxycinnamate

OMC or octocrylene) are

loaded inside oleosomes and

physically separated from UVA

chromophores (for example

Avobenzone), formulators can

achieve very high SPF values with

low concentrations of sunscreen.

A 016-147 SPF30 daily moisturizer

(Figure 1) contains only 2% OMC

and 0.5% Avobenzone and has

had its efficacy confirmed in a 20

person FDA Static SPF in vivo test,

in addition to a 5 person COLIPA

SPF in vivo study.

To summarize, oleosomes

are natural microspheres from

plant seeds, isolated according

to a patented USDA organic

manufacturing process, which

have been demonstrated to

function as powerful, clinically

mild emulsifiers and proven

delivery systems of actives that

can also boost SPF values. Several

grades from safflower seeds

and almond nuts, including a

USDA NOP organic version, are

available from Botaneco or its

distribution partners. PHm

fOR mORE INfORmATIONTony Abboud, Director of Sales and Marketing Botaneco [email protected] www.botanecocorp.com

AUTHORSTony Abboud, Director of Sales and MarketingDr Jack GuthVP of R&D

PROvEN POWEROleosomes are natural

structures that can provide oil-

soluble actives with antioxidant

protection. Naturally containing

approximately 60 mg–100 g of

vitamin E (alpha Tocopherol)

locked within their spherical

structures, they have been

proven to absorb and protect

actives such as retinol, UVB

chromophores and fragrances

or essential oils. Possible delivery

system applications include the

24 MARCH/APRIL 2012

FORMULATION

Perhaps the

purveyors of

natural products

have expended

so much of their

marketing and formulation

energy on convincing

consumers of their competitive

efficicay and unrivalled ethical

credentials that they have

sometimes forgotten that

the cosmetic industry is also

driven by indulgence. And

in hard financial times, the

idea of an affordable treat

may prove a bigger draw

than ever to consumers who

have had to relinquish some

of life’s other luxuries. This was

attested to by Fabio Rosello,

head of the Italian Cosmetics

Industry Association, who

highlighted the industry’s

flying in the face of potential

economic meltdown to actually

increase turnover, attributing

it to the status of cosmetics

as an essential comfort that

consumers are “unwilling to do

without.“

Natural and organic products

are still the fastest growing

market sector and seem a sure

fire recipe for success — but, as

is the case with any mega trend,

there will come a saturation

point. If formulations can imbue

this platform with a sense of

extravagence, they open the

possibility of diferentiating

themselves further from the

competition and winning over

unconvinced consumers.

Combining “natural origins

with advanced sensory effects“

is Clariant’s stated remit in its

new Touch of Nature range of

ingredients for skin, body and hair

care formulations. The result of

a collaboration with biorefinery

product manufacturer KitoZyme,

the ingredients comprise three

product lines — Vitipure, Velsan

and Zenvivo — which offer

vegetal alternatives that won’t

let the sensory side down. The

range sets a new benchmark

for the production of vegetal

Chitosan, Chitin-Glucan and their

derivatives. Sourced by selected

suppliers that meet purity, quality

and traceability requirements,

the products are created from

fully renewable, non-GMO and

traceable fungi and comply with

GMP (FDA and EMEA), HACCP and

ISO9001: 2008.

SOFTLy SOFTLyVelsan Soft provides a natural,

vegetal replacement for

silicones that sacrifices neither

effectiveness nor aesthetics.

It boosts wetting and foaming

properties to achieve a stable,

creamy foam with a luxurious feel;

its combination of moisturizing

and conditioning benefits with

a gentle feel means it is ideal for

hypoallergenic products. Easily

incorporated into formulations,

the liquid ingredient targets

the typical silicone application

areas of cleansing and rinse-

off applications (including hair

shampoos and treatments)

and can replace standard

conditioning ingredients

such as cationic polymers

(polyquaternium) and quaternary

ammonium compounds (genamin

BTLF — behentrimonium chloride).

It boasts foam-boosting properties

and so helps to promote a

pleasant, creamy foam for

facial and body washes and is

suitable for ‘caring’ and leave-

on applications such as body

lotions, sun care, make-up and

deodorants/antiperspirants, where

it enhances the spreading of the

formulation, wets the pigments or

reduces the tackiness to enhance

the overall sensory feel.

PUrE CLASSNext in line is Vitipure, billed as

a solution for complete skin repair

and protection. Its ingredients

stimulate key cells in the immune

system, restoring the skin barrier

and effecting a long-term

rebuilding and restructuring of the

skin cells. Some of the potential

benefits are wrinkle reduction,

enhanced skin elasticity and

firmness and a rebalancing and

rehydration of damaged, dry,

mature skin. Unlike many natural

solutions, ingredients in this range

combine different functions to

provide ease of use to personal

care manufacturers and fall

into two categories; Vitipure

Feeling for skincare cosmetics

and Vitipure Sensation, a refined

grade for colour cosmetics.

Tackling the specific needs of

sensitive, dry or mature skin, their

potential applications encompass

everything from baby care to age

repair formulations and include

fluids, creams and lotions for body

and face. Potential market sectors

they can address include day,

night, eye, sun and aftershave

care — in addition to the skin

whitening innovations that are

favoured by the Asian market.

Clariant also boast the

market’s only vegetal-based

chitosan, Zenvivo, which avoids

the disadvantages of animal-

based chitosan, is non-allergenic,

highly reproducible and safe

and is available in two grades

with different molecular weights.

Zenvivo Protect is a low molecular

grade for enhanced antimicrobial

properties, from malodor

reduction in mouthwashes to

deodorant efficacy and the

preservation of cosmetic products,

which can be used across the

complete spectrum of skin and

hair care applications. Zenvivo

For all its positive connotations, the term ‘natural’ does not always resonate ‘luxury’ in the minds of consumers. Indeed, in the past, it has been associated with a movement away from the artificial luxuriousness — which may come at an ethical, environmental and even physical price — of the cosmetics industry.

SENSOrySensations

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26 MARCH/APRIL 2012MARCH/APRIL 2012

Aqua is a high molecular grade

that is suitable as a film former in

hair styling, sun care or decorative

cosmetics or as a conditioning

agent for leave-on and rinse-off

skin and hair care formulations.

Mauro Bergamasco, head of

global marketing of industrial

and consumer specialties at

Clariant, commented on the

range of offerings: “We are

delighted to offer the personal

care market a unique range of

natural-based ingredients that

combine moisturizing, repairing

and protecting effects with an

extraordinarily gentle feel for

skin and hair. Inspired by nature,

our customers will be able to

fulfill consumers’ desire for purity,

effectiveness and luxury, to set

themselves apart in the personal

care industry.”

gOINg THE EXTrA MILEOn a related note, Clariant has

recently “gone the extra mile“ for

its cosmetics industry customers

by achieving global ISO 22716

Cosmetics Good Manufacturing

Practice (GMP) certification for

its global management system.

Reinforcing Clariant’s ambition

to continue as a leading partner

for the personal care industry,

this certification guarantees

globally consistent products and

processes that will support more

efficient product development

by customers. The reference

standard is primarily held by

cosmetics producers and ensures

deliverance of the highest

quality products by the sector.

Achieving it has not been a walk

in the park for Clariant: it has

taken 10 months and the efforts

of hundreds of employees to

initiate the Cosmetics GMP across

the business. Standardization

of production, quality control

and warehouse and logistic

procedures mean customers

can be confident of globally

consisitant processes, services,

product quality and availability at

a local level.

Customers will benefit from a

more transparent relationship to

support their global production

and reduce the complexity

and costs of future product

development. By attaining ISO

22716, Clariant’s processes also

fulfill European guidelines for

cosmetics production. Ralf Zerrer,

head of strategic marketing

of industrial and consumer

specialties, described the

company as “proud“ of the

accomplishment and claimed

that it signifies ”a further milestone

in our strategy for the personal

care segment.” He went to

on argue that it represents

“more than just an indication of

process quality” and will allow

the company to become a

stronger link in the value chain

of customers, who “can rely on

Clariant to offer the transparency

and consistency they need to

increase their speed to market

for existing and new cosmetics

formulations.“

Mauro Bergamasco, head of

global marketing for industrial

and consumer specialties,

explained that Clariant’s

“portfolio of cosmetics ingredients

embraces the sector’s efficiency,

environmental and safety

challenges and our formulation

expertise can add real value

to the creation of exciting and

sustainable innovations for the

consumer market.”

Implementing a system to

guarantee globally harmonized

products and processes for the

personal care industry is a key

element of Clariant’s strategic

repositioning, which also

includes bolt-on acquisitions and

partnerships with leading industry

players such as KitoZyme and

Oberhausen Technology Center.

Using all the tools at its disposal,

the company is determined to

help its customers to provide

consumers with products that

combine luxury with natural

credentials. PHM

fOR mORE INfORmATIONDominik SchneiderMedia RelationsClariant International Ltd+41 6146 953 [email protected]

26

FORMULATION

272012 MARCH/APRIL

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28 MARCH/APRIL 2012

SkINCARE

Many of my

patients

have “tried

everything”

to help their

skin but only found temporary

relief. They come to my clinic

hoping to find a more long-term

solution to help to manage their

skin problems. I’ve been using

blue light to treat acne for many

years; it’s a proven technology

and championed by leading

dermatologists and physicists for

its capacity to destroy acne-

causing bacteria.

Typically, patients will come

for a consultation and begin

a 16 week course of blue light

treatment in the clinic. Although

undeniably effective, the

commitment to making twice

weekly clinic visits is an issue for

busy acne sufferers. An increasing

number of women in their 20s and

30s are suffering from acne and

the patients I’ve treated in that

age bracket are almost always

short of time — juggling stressful

jobs and family commitments.

They want to find a way to control

their acne but coming to the

clinic for an hour in the middle of

their day just isn’t practical.

About 3 months ago,

Ambicare Health launched

Lustre Pure Light, a blue light

treatment which, for the first

time, can be used at home.

Lustre is a small, rechargeable

product with slim, flexible heads

that are gently attached to the

skin to directly target problem

areas. The device is portable

and treatment is delivered while

the product is worn, giving

users the freedom to get on

with everyday life. For the best

results, we encourage patients

to use the device for about half

an hour a day and, because

it’s designed to work alongside

existing acne therapies, patients

can continue to use favourite

products if they want to or, if

necessary, come to the clinic for

additional treatments on a less

regular basis.

To be able to apply clinically

proven blue light technology

in an at-home device is a

significant breakthrough in the

treatment of acne — and we’re

experiencing fantastic results

already. One patient, Helen,

came to Temple Aesthetics

having suffered from acne

for 12 years and told me that

her skin problems made her

feel “ugly, depressed, lacking

confidence and self-conscious.”

During the previous decade,

Helen had tried a huge range of

treatments but nothing worked.

After only five treatments with

blue light, she noticed an

improvement in her skin and

on completion of treatment

her skin is smoother, more even

in texture and with reduced

breakouts. Her previously ‘angry’

looking skin is now calmer and

the improvement is clear to

see in before and after photos.

In addition, the success of the

treatment has transformed

Helen’s self-confidence and self-

esteem. She is going to continue

to use Lustre Pure Light to control

her acne and describes finally

having clearer skin as “a dream

come true.”

Helen’s story is typical of

many young women with acne.

I’m convinced of the efficacy

of blue light treatment and

being able to use it at home

is of huge benefit to patients.

Not only has this product and

technology registered great

success, it also taps into the

concerns that many acne

sufferers have about treatment

side-effects. Ambicare Health

recently conducted research

among young women who

have acne and two thirds

of those polled cited this

as a worry. A growing

number of our patients

at Temple Aesthetics

have similar concerns

about the adverse

side-effects of some

treatments, in addition

to the potential long-

term risks associated

with constant use of

certain medications.

Lustre addresses this issue

by offering a completely

safe solution for acne. For

me, it’s yet another reason

to recommend that patients

try the device. PHM

THE LIgHT ENd OF THE TUNNEL For years, acne sufferers struggling to control outbreaks have turned to a wide range of treatments for help — from antibiotics and topical creams to contraceptive pills and expensive face washes. Here Dr Sam Robson, who has been working with patients suffering with acne for more than 15 years, explains the advantages of a new approach.

at the

AUTHORDr Sam Robson, MBChB, MRCGPMember of the British Association of Cosmetic Doctors.Temple Aesthetics is based in Aberdeen.

fOR mORE INfORmATIONGary ConroySales and Marketing DirectorAmbicare [email protected]

It’s a proven technology and championed by leading dermatologists and

physicists for its capacity to destroy acne-causing bacteria.

Project2:Layout 1 12/27/11 12:56 PM Page 1

at the

Project2:Layout 1 12/27/11 12:56 PM Page 1

FromBOTOX toNO-TOXThe happy circumstance of increasing life expectancy has given rise to a growing pool of people that are seeking new ways to carry their health, youth and vitality with them into their later years. And, from antiageing creams to botox, products and treatments that claim to prevent the outward signs of ageing are a key part of this effort. Renowned Harley Street clinician Dr Dapeng Zhang explains the benefits of a more natural approach.

30 MARCH/APRIL 2012

SkINCARE

312012 MARCH/APRIL

Unfortunately,

the signs aren’t

all good;

news reports

frequently

reveal that many of these

antiageing solutions are inferior,

fail to perform and may even

cause unwelcome side-effects.

One of the most publicized

of available treatments is

formulated from botulism

bacteria and injected into

the skin to paralyse the nerves

beneath: botox. The reduction

of the appearance of fine lines

that it delivers lasts for a few

months, but its financial cost

of £200–£300 is apparently

not the only price to be paid.

A number of recipients have

reported a range of worrying

side-effects; drooping eyelids,

muscle weakness or spasms

and sweating have been

associated with this potent

neurotoxin — and its long-

term effects are still largely

unknown. Worryingly, scientists

have recently cast doubt

on practitioners’ traditional,

reassuring belief that botox

does not cross the blood/brain

barrier. If that weren’t enough

motivation for consumers to

seek an alternative, the FDA has

also reported fatalities linked to

the injections.

Those who turn instead (or

in addition!) to antiageing

creams could well be looking

for a solution in the wrong

place; priced anywhere

between £16–£220, these

miracle pots that claim to hold

the key to youthful skin often

only result in a barely visible

10% line reduction. At least we

know price isn’t everything —

numerous consumer reports

have indicated that cheaper

moisturizing creams tend to

be as successful as their more

expensive counterparts. But

consumers need not lose heart,

there is good news: alternative

natural and cost-effective

ways to prevent premature

ageing are becoming more

readily available — and beauty

acupuncture is among them.

fROm CAUSE TO EffECT

Increasingly sought after

in recent years as one of the

best natural alternatives to

conventional antiageing

treatments, beauty acupuncture

addresses both the causes and

effects of premature ageing and

provides a much more profound

and long-lasting outcome. The

process involves analysing and

‘charting’ the subject’s face

before acupuncture needles

are applied to specific points

and areas, the effect of which

is to stimulate the body’s ability

to heal itself by enhancing

blood and lymph flow. After

comprehensive detailing of

a patient’s health history,

shiatsu and facial massage

are also administered as part

of treatment. In addition,

reflexology is employed owing

to its benefits as a whole-body

treatment that addresses

underlying health issues and,

as a consequence, any skin

problems that reflect them.

Treatment with acupuncture

accelerates the natural

drainage of toxins, increasing

the surge of oxygen and

nutrients to the skin, escalating

collagen production and

strengthening elastin fibres.

The overall anti-inflammatory

response of the skin is calmed

to reduce puffiness in the eye

area and stimulate facial

muscles, increasing tone and

suppleness. By addressing

the causes, as opposed to

merely the visible results, of

premature ageing, beauty

acupuncture works to prevent

the formation of new wrinkles

and minimize existing lines by

enhancing the skin’s innate

ability to regenerate a plumper,

smoother, more radiant and

rejuvenated face.

THE mIDAS TOUCH At my clinic on Harley Street,

I offer a luxurious treatment

using 24 carat pure gold

needles. The considerable

advantages of gold principally

relate to its ability to slow

collagen depletion and elastin

breakdown to prevent sagging,

in addition to stimulating

cellular growth to regenerate

firm skin cells and provide a

tightening effect. Furthermore,

customers will notice results

after just one session. Used in

the treatment of arthritis since

the 1920s, gold also reduces

skin and body inflammation,

slowing melanin secretion and

reducing age spots.

Hailed as one of the best

natural alternatives to Botox,

cosmetic acupuncture

has already attracted the

attention of a number of

high-profile individuals who

wish to maintain or improve

an image that is of paramount

importance to their careers. It

has inspired loyalty in a range

of customers who, having

experienced its benefits, enjoy

an overall improvement in

health and well-being that is

not only effective but, most

importantly, safe.

In addition to beauty

acupuncture, my extensive

study of traditional Chinese

medicine has allowed me to

successfully treat patients for

a variety of health concerns,

including multiple sclerosis (MS),

cancer, infertility and arthritis.

PHm

fOR mORE INfORmATIONDr Dapeng ZhangTel. +44 7766 495 [email protected]

Treatment with acupuncture accelerates the natural drainage of

toxins, increasing the surge of oxygen and nutrients to the skin, escalating collagen production and strengthening elastin fibres.

INDUSTRY TRENDS

32 MARCH/APRIL 2012

Product Code Product Name ABTS

139680 Actipone A mla (Amalki) Fruit GW ++++

399985 Actipone Aronia GW ++

381255 Actipone Black Raspberry GW ++

399977 Actipone Blackcurrent GW ++

399882 Actipone Blueberry GW ++

399976 Actipone Camu Camu GW ++++

398769 Actipone Cranburry GW ++

399979 Actipone Elderberry GW +++

399924 Actipone Goji Berry GW +

139785 Actipone Noni (Ashyuka) Fruit GW ++

843441 Actipone Pomegranate GW +++

382411 Actipone Raspberry (Organic) GW ++

399978 Actipone Sea Buckthorn GW +++

A vITAl BOOST Super fruits are a significant

megatrend in the health and

beauty industry and form part

of a more general movement

towards using traditional food

components as cosmetic

ingredients. They are even

recommended as food

supplements and nutraceuticals;

cranberry, for example, is widely

used to tackle urinary disorders

and, owing to its antioxidant

properties, is increasingly found

in cosmetic products. This is not

a singular case: Açai berries are

also used as food supplements

and are finding a place in

toiletries as a result of their high

levels of the powerful group of

antioxidants, anthocyanidins

(Table I).

It is not just their powerful

components that make these

fruits a popular ingredient in

cosmetic formulations; thanks

to their traditional use and

familiarity in food supplements

and juices, consumers both

trust and enjoy them. Moreover,

fruits appear to impart a

general feeling of well-being

— for example, many people

find a morning shower with

a fruit-scented shower gel

an enjoyable, energizing

way to start the day, even

before breakfast. Although

pomegranate, cranberry and

açai may be found in numerous

cosmetic products, there are still

more super fruits that have yet to

be discovered.

ANTIOXIDANT ClAImReactive oxygen species

(ROS) and free radicals are

continuously formed in our

bodies in several metabolic

pathways, including electron

transport chains and active

phagocytosis. Normally,

the oxidative damage to

macromolecules such as

DNA, proteins and lipids is

prevented by a series of specially

adapted enzyme systems (for

instance superoxide dismutase,

glutathione peroxidase and

catalase) and several water-

and lipid-soluble non-protein

compounds (for example

vitamin C, tocopherols and

glutathione). However, if this well-

balanced system is disturbed

by external or internal stress,

ROS formation will exceed the

antioxidant capacity of the

biological system and result

in oxidative stress. Oxidative

damage to biomolecules is

known to be a major contributor

to ageing and a diverse range of

pathological diseases.

mEASURING ANTIOXIDANT ACTIvITYIn this case, antioxidant activity

was measured using the ABTS

assay, which is based on the

reduction of the relatively

stable blue/green 2,2‘-azino-

bis-(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-

6-sulfonate) (ABTS) radical

cation, prepared through

Table I: Antioxidant capacity of superfruits.

FEEdINg COSMETIC TrendsIf one looks at consumers’ expectations of modern cosmetics, it is possible to identify a demand for both tradition and innovation — and the perfect approach to meeting these is the combination of nature and science. Natural ingredients, particularly botanical extracts, arouse feelings of reassurance and comfort and, in combination with scientific research and delivery methods, promote and protect beauty. Three plant categories in particular are worth investigating for their interesting ingredients: ‘super fruits,’ ‘super vegetables’ and healthy grains.

Efficient range of concentration+ 1% +++ 0.1%++ 0.5% ++++ 0.05%

332012 MARCH/APRIL

the reaction of ABTS with

potassium persulfate (K2O8S2).

Antioxidants convert this into a

colourless product; the degree of

decolourization therefore reflects

the amount of ABTS radical

cation that has been scavenged

and can be determined

spectrophotometrically.2

SlOW lIvINGOur daily lives are conducted at

a faster pace than ever before

and the ‘normal’ day-to-day

situation has become one of

stress. The desire of consumers to

slow the pace in their limited free

time has resulted in a ‘slow living’

trend that is accompanied by

a demand for healthy, delicious

food. This has in turn driven a

rediscovery of authentic, local

ingredients such as vegetables.

The slow food movement has

been a significant start to

reimagining food — no longer

should it be merely something we

need to survive on a daily basis,

but a means of both mental and

physical stress relief, enjoyment

and relaxation. This is not solely

owing to the comforting effects

of these foodstuffs; ‘super

vegetables’ contain the healthy

ingredients that are also found

in super fruits. The skincare

market is also feeling the effects

of this demand — cucumber,

for example, has long been

a popular food and its high

water content makes it the

perfect symbol for moisturizing

formulations. It is being joined

by ‘newer’ vegetables that are

finding their way into creams,

lotions and shower gels and offer

scientifically-proven protection

against free radicals (Table II).

THE NEXT STEPGrains such as rice, oatmeal,

wheat and millet have almost

always been an important

part of mankind’s daily diet;

their consumption dates from

the earliest known civilizations.

Amaranth was a staple grain

of the Aztec population,

whereas quinoa was of

symbolic importance to the

Inca civilization, but the advent

of colonization in the Americas

and the industrial revolution

consigned these ingredients

to 500 years of obscurity.

Fortunately, the rise of the health

and wellness trend in recent years

has triggered the rediscovery of

these nutritious grains.

Certain of them, particularly

quinoa, amaranth and spelt

are termed ‘super grains’ by

nutritionists. Not only do they

constitute our body’s best energy

source but are renowned for their

health benefits and known for

their nourishing, regenerating

and toning properties.

Symbolizing health and nature

and inspiring confidence in

consumers, these super grains

are achieving growing popularity

in the cosmetics industry. Oat

extract in particular is known for

its skin-calming and antioxidant

properties and the beta-glucan

contained within it is a potential

antiageing ingredient.

Recently, we at Symrize

investigated the antioxidant

capacity of black rice, which has

been cultivated in China since

ancient times and long been

considered as having medicinal

properties (Figure 1). In fact,

the belief that it promoted long

life led to the Emperor banning

anyone but his favourites from

eating it, earning it the name of

‘forbidden rice.’ This confidence

in its health benefits is now

being supported by scientific

investigation.

These are but a few of the fruits,

vegetables and grains that are

recognized for their nutritional

value and beneficial components

and are gaining greater

importance in the cosmetics

market. As increased consumer

awareness and demand

encourages companies to further

investigate the cosmetic potential

of familiar and exotic foods, the

cosmetic grocery basket is only

set to expand. PHm

fOR mORE INfORmATIONManfred AxtererGlobal Product Manager, [email protected]. +49 5531 903 543www.symrise.com

REfERENCES1. C. Jones, et al., “Superfruits

for Healthy Skin and Hair Care — Superfruits are on the Tip of Everyone’s Tongue,” SÖFW-journal 106, 10–16 (2010).

2. R. Re, et al., “Antioxidant Activity Applying an Improved ABTS Radical Cation Decolorization Assay,” Free Radic. Biol. Med. 26, 1231–1237 (1999).

AUTHORSM. Axterer, J.Betke, T. Küper, N. Scholz, D. Stuhlmann, S.Taramelli

Table II: Antioxidant capacity of vegetable extracts

Figure 1: The antioxidant capacity of black rice.

Product Code Product Name ABTS

364577 Actipone Artichoke GW +++

373379 Actipone Spinach GW ++

374981 Actipone Asparagus GW ++

373375 Actipone Beetroot GW +

374982 Actipone Zucchini GW +

373439 Actipone Broccoli GW +

359061 Actipone Pumpkin GW +

Efficient range of concentration+ 1% +++ 0.1%++ 0.5% ++++ 0.05%

All antioxidant data in this presentation are mean values of at least two

experiments. This antioxidant data is the result of an ABTS assay.

100908070605040302010

0

0.10% 0.50% 1.00%

AOX capacity [%]

AO

X C

apac

ity (

%)

Antioxidant concentrations (%)

34 MARCH/APRIL 2012

LAST WORD

As the press

and social

media make

evident, today’s

consumers

are not easily influenced by

cosmetic product claims. And the

international legal requirement

that active ingredients and

final formulae substantiate

their claims means that neither

R&D nor marketing can shift

this responsibility onto the

other. Moreover, an inability

to ‘translate’ new research

findings into language that

consumers understand without

losing scientific integrity is

causing many brands to miss key

communication opportunities.

Failure to capture market

potential is often driven by

the following: cost and an

unwillingness to spend; choice

of clinical studies and lack of

understanding; concern about

the return on investment and

worries surrounding regulatory

and advertising standards

authorities. There has been a

common underlying theme

in claims and clinical projects

executed for clients in the last

4 years — namely a disconnect

between what marketing

departments desire based on

their understanding of consumer

‘need,’ the scientific data

generated, the claims promoted

by raw material suppliers and

R&D’s interpretation of that

data, legislation, the formulation

chemist, the clinical testing

company or department — and

knowledge.

THEIR NEED IS YOUR NEED

Without consumers and their

needs, raw materials would still

be at the starting block, but

as suppliers emphasize sales

to formulators and R&D, these

needs are often sidelined.

Although marketing professionals

acknowledge that they create

consumer needs, today’s

consumers are not easily

influenced by promises of eternal

youth or the like — and even if

they are not academically ‘in the

know,’ many have generated

a knowledge, which, in recent

years, social media has certainly

played a large role in. The

supplier who is convinced that

the consumer is the responsibility

of their customer must realize that

said consumer is an individual

and not just a face in the crowd.

Academia’s progress continues

at lightning speed and the

wealth of information available

in scientific journals and press is

outstanding. Furthermore, with

large multinational conferences

and events dominating the

field of dermatology, the raw

material supplier scientist is spoilt

for choice. Failure to capture

opportunities in this way means

that commercially driven

distributors risk their diluted version

of the facts effectively losing them

sales.

That said, it is encouraging to

find and be consulting with a few

unique raw material suppliers

whose philosophy is to have

the foresight — and an almost

personal desire — to invest in

understanding new research

findings to take advantage of

them. New claims are developed

and justified and, in a number of

cases, new data has positioned

some rather ‘old’ ingredients

into state-of-the-art knowledge,

supported by quality peer-

reviewed scientific publications

and possibly patent applications

of their own. Supported by

quality marketing, such suppliers

clearly enjoy a unique position in

their respective markets.

Whether the industry likes

it or not, ingredients and

finished formulae require claim

substantiation and neither

supplier nor customer can

shirk the responsibility. It is

disappointing that I often hear

industry professionals actually

encouraging this! The common

practice (not solely within the

supply base) of running cheap

and cheerful studies to avoid

costs before passing the buck

means that companies will get

the same in return: cheap data

and often not so cheerful results!

As the saying goes, what

you put in is what you get

out. Expectations are very

rarely mirrored in reality and

pressure is put on clinical testing

companies to guarantee results; a

practice that is corrupt, immoral,

unethical and actually illegal. If

you have a high-quality raw

material with an exciting sound

and new possibilities, give it

the support it deserves with

well thought out study designs,

executed at high-quality in vitro

laboratories and human testing

research companies. Ensure you

budget for claims support as a

forethought, not an afterthought;

it is part of the foundation of

product success and, in essence,

its “soul”.

Dr Theresa Callaghan will be

presenting “Sense about Science:

The Role of Marketing in Cosmetic

Clinical Trials and the Impact on

Consumer (Mis)Understanding” at

in-cosmetics on 17 April between

13.15–14.00 in the marketing

trends theatre. PHM

SENSE SCIENCE

fOR mORE INfORmATIONDr Theresa M. CallaghanCallaghan [email protected]

about

Although marketing professionals acknowledge that they create consumer

needs, today’s consumers are not easily influenced by promises of eternal youth and the like.

Dr Theresa Callaghan discusses the role of marketing in cosmetic clinical trials and its impact on consumer (mis)understanding.

Iselux® SFS – simply sulfate-free, clearly superior

www.innospecinc.com

For inspiration, ideas or further

information, please contact us:

Americas

[email protected]

Asia-Pacific

[email protected]

Europe, Middle East & Africa

[email protected]

Technology invented by

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isethionate esters for luxurious gentle

lather in clear formulations we’ve

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all the functional benefits of our

proven sulfate-free ingredients

and save you time and money on

formulating.

Iselux® SFS is a concentrated

surfactant blend developed for use

in sulfate-free personal care products

such bodywashes and shampoos.

This optimized concentrate can be

cold-processed, requiring only the

addition of water for dilution and

electrolyte to thicken.

Iselux® SFS concentrate benefits:

Sulfate-free blend

Simplify manufacturing process

Reduce on-site inventory

Cold process

Cost effective

Iselux® SFS is free from sulfates, EO,

amides and readily biodegradable.

It is entirely derived from natural,

renewable (plant-derived) resources.

Ideal for use in shampoos,

bodywashes and cleanser

formulations, these concentrated,

sulfate-free surfactant blends are the

tools you need to deliver sulfate-free

as standard.

Visit us at stand M39,

in-cosmetics, Barcelona,

17 – 19 April 2012

•••••

Iselux® SFS – simply sulfate-free, clearly superior

www.innospecinc.com

For inspiration, ideas or further

information, please contact us:

Americas

[email protected]

Asia-Pacific

[email protected]

Europe, Middle East & Africa

[email protected]

Technology invented by

Building on the success of Iselux®

isethionate esters for luxurious gentle

lather in clear formulations we’ve

now made it even easier for you to

produce exceptional

sulfate-free products.

Our new performance blends offer

all the functional benefits of our

proven sulfate-free ingredients

and save you time and money on

formulating.

Iselux® SFS is a concentrated

surfactant blend developed for use

in sulfate-free personal care products

such bodywashes and shampoos.

This optimized concentrate can be

cold-processed, requiring only the

addition of water for dilution and

electrolyte to thicken.

Iselux® SFS concentrate benefits:

Sulfate-free blend

Simplify manufacturing process

Reduce on-site inventory

Cold process

Cost effective

Iselux® SFS is free from sulfates, EO,

amides and readily biodegradable.

It is entirely derived from natural,

renewable (plant-derived) resources.

Ideal for use in shampoos,

bodywashes and cleanser

formulations, these concentrated,

sulfate-free surfactant blends are the

tools you need to deliver sulfate-free

as standard.

Visit us at stand M39,

in-cosmetics, Barcelona,

17 – 19 April 2012

•••••

Visit our stand F58

Documents

PHM March 2012