skincare

The world of personal care ingredienTs

PUREHealthMagazine

aUTUMn ediTion 2010

conTracT servicesOutsource your way

to better business

evenT previewin-cosmetics Asia

forMUlaTion and

TechnologyNanocapsules deliver!

Bugs, plants and business

coloUr ManageMenT in cosMeTics

ExfOliAtiON, whitENiNg ANd prOBiOtics

2 autumn 2010

conTenTs

10

aUTUMn ediTion 2010

In this issue...

contents

2010 autumn 3

32

30

froM The ediTor05 Organics with a Price, Ethics with a Bite Dr Kevin Robinson

This JUsT in06 News and Products from the Personal Care Sector

show preview10 Energizing the Asian Beauty BusinessSarah Gibson

skincare12 More Than a Fact of LifeRaquel Merino and Miriam Mateu

14 Probiotics and Skincare: A Case StudySylvie Roquefeuil Dedieu

16 in-cosmetics Asia Faces Up to SkincareDr Alain Khaiat

18 Navigate Your Skin to Radiant Beauty with Chemical ExfoliationSarah Burns-Eggenberger

20 The Non-Stop Search for Efficient WhiteningIrene Montaño

conTracT services24 Effective Outsourcing for Better BusinessPeter Burrows

forMUlaTion26 Nanocapsulations in Cosmetic Products: An Answer to Your Formulation Problems?

Dr Mojgan Moddaresi

Technology30 Bugs, Plants and BusinessDr Kevin Robinson

coloUrs and fragrances32 Managing Colour in the Cosmetics Industry: The Benefits of Contactless MeasurementReinhard Feld

lasT word34 Baobab Oil: A Miracle of NatureSandra Wulf18

12

1226

4 autumn 2010

Staff

Registered Office: Via Media UK Ltd 22 HighacreDorking Surrey RH4 3BF.Publisher endeavours to collect and include complete, correct and current information

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Process and Packaging Lines for the Pharmaceutical Industry

Bosspak Tablet Counting

FrymaKoruma Vacuum Processing & Wet Grinding

Macofar Aseptic/non aseptic Filling of Powders & Liquids,

Caspule Filling, Vials Washing/Sterilizing

Noack Blister Packaging

Promatic Cartoning & End of Line Packaging

Siebler Strip & Customized Packaging

Unipac Tube Filling

info@romaco.comwww.romaco.com

LAY_ROM_Ins_210x148_E.indd 1 17.06.09 13:12

Better education

leads to better

sales. This seems

to be a common

mantra across

many sectors and markets;

but, according to the findings

of a recent US study by market

research firm, Kairos Consumers

(www.kairosconsumers.com),

personal care shoppers could

definitely benefit from a little

more time in class! Consumers

need to be better educated

about the effectiveness and

product claims of organic and

natural cosmetics to justify

paying a premium price,

states the Kairos study, which

included store audits and

focus groups. It highlighted

a general lack of knowledge

among consumers about the

ingredients in organic and

natural cosmetics, even though

they may regularly purchase

and are knowledgeable about

organic food. Mind you, the

questionable benefits of so-

called organic food is still a

topic of much ferocious debate,

so it’s perhaps not particularly

surprising that the concepts

of “organic” and “natural”

personal care products are not

that well understood.

The report claims that

cosmetics shoppers place a

greater emphasis on product

performance than the safety

and wholesomeness that

organic and natural skincare

brands signify. Because

consumers seem to know and

understand conventional

cosmetic claims or be more

familiar with the brand names,

they tend to favour buying

them in preference to products

labelled as organic or natural.

Those consumers buying

organic and natural cosmetics

admit they don’t know a great

deal about what constitutes

an organic or a natural

product. When asked what

they believe makes a natural

or organic product appealing

to them, cosmetics buyers said

safety and the absence of

certain ‘negative’ ingredients.

“Cosmetic shoppers told us they

believe cosmetics are deemed

to be safe when they are free

from ingredients they view to

be ‘bad,’ such as parabens,

dyes and chemicals. They also

place great importance on

the brand’s reputation in the

organic or natural marketplace,

making brand familiarity an

important influencer of cosmetic

decisions,” explains Betsy Hoag,

cofounder of Kairos Consumers.

“Enormous opportunity exists

for both manufacturers and

retailers with established

brands in organics or naturals,

as consumers place

great importance on familiar

names. Smaller, lesser known

brands can also succeed by

educating organic shoppers

about the effectiveness of

organic and natural ingredients

as many consumers in the

study indicated a desire for

this information,” notes Hoag.

And I’ll bet they’ll be a lot more

interested when the prices

come down, as well.

Taking the natural/organic

theme to the extreme, a

new method of analysing

squalene and squalane, oils

often used in the production

of cosmetics (as an emollient

and hydrating agent) and

vaccines, can show whether

they came originally from the

liver of deepwater sharks or from

olives. In 2006, the EU imposed

deep-sea shark fishing limits

in the Northeast Atlantic, and

since 2008, some important

cosmetic firms have declared

that they have stopped using

shark squalane. Up until now,

however, there has been no way

for manufacturers to determine

whether the squalene or

squalane they are using has

come from sharks or olives. But,

a new scientifically validated

method — published in Rapid

Communications in Mass

Spectrometry — can now reveal

the source. Currently, thousands

of endangered deepwater

sharks are killed each year to

supply a cheap source of these

oils, with squalene being the

second most sought after raw

product of sharks after their

fins. A technique does exist

to extract these compounds

from vegetable sources, but

shark-derived squalene offers

a higher yield and requires

shorter processing times,

therefore involving lower costs.

Consequently, there is a

temptation for oil suppliers to

keep on exploiting sharks.

“Our method will protect

both cosmetic firms and

consumers from commercial

fraud and will make it possible

to promote the production of

squalene from olive oil. It will

also allow the origin of squalane

within a finished product to

be determined. Together,

this will discourage the illegal

fishing of deepwater sharks

and thus contribute towards

protecting sharks from the threat

of extinction,” says Federica

Camin, who works at the IASMA

Research and Innovation

Centre, Fondazione Edmund

Mach (San Michele all’Adige,

Italy) and authored the paper.

“This new method could be

used as an official method of

detecting whether any batch of

squalene or squalane has come

from animal or plant sources,

allowing manufactures to make

clear claims about the ethical

status of their products,” says

Camin. When comparing ethics

with organics, I can only hope

that personal care shoppers

would choose the former … and

that has to be worth paying a

little more for, doesn’t it? phM

From The Editor

for More inforMaTionDr Kevin Robinson is the Editorial Director of Pure Health Magazine and can be reached at kevin@via-medialtd.com.

organics wiTh a price, eThics wiTh a BiTeA recent study shows that cosmetic shoppers rank product performance higher than organic and natural ingredients.

2010 autumn 5

Process and Packaging Lines for the Pharmaceutical Industry

Bosspak Tablet Counting

FrymaKoruma Vacuum Processing & Wet Grinding

Macofar Aseptic/non aseptic Filling of Powders & Liquids,

Caspule Filling, Vials Washing/Sterilizing

Noack Blister Packaging

Promatic Cartoning & End of Line Packaging

Siebler Strip & Customized Packaging

Unipac Tube Filling

info@romaco.comwww.romaco.com

LAY_ROM_Ins_210x148_E.indd 1 17.06.09 13:12

6 autumn 2010

News and Products

prodUcT saMples and UniT dose applicaTion MUlTipacksSkincare sample and unit dose packaging, available from J.P. Packaging, solves the complex and often frustrating product handling and dosing issues presented by unique product textures, viscosity, dispensing requirements and brand marketing packaging objectives. Convenient, portable and sanitary product testers, and multipack point-of-use packages, offer accurate, controlled, point-of-application reliability. “Skincare product formulations present a wide range of challenges,” notes John Vandercliff, President of J.P. Packaging. “Viscosities may range from thin, watery solutions to thick, viscous formulations. Individual ingredients — notably oils or micro-inclusions within skincare formulations — often present unique filling and sealing challenges. Fortunately, our experience with machinery, product filling and a broad selection of packaging substrates, enables us to package skincare products in neat, great looking, brand-enhancing, protective packages — without any integrity issues.”

A key element in the packaging of skincare product samples is proper dosing and placement, especially with OTC products. If a packager overfills, underfills or fills product within the seam line, the package may not contain an accurate application or the package integrity may be compromised. Because product should sit comfortably within a secure 360˚ sealing perimeter, J.P. Packaging creates and often modifies the dosing pumps to ensure proper fill volume and placement. Customized handling and dosing solutions have been developed for packaging formulations that include microdermabrasion beads — the active encapsulated nanoparticle ingredient beads that are incorporated in some skincare products. The tiny, gritty particles that are troublesome to many contract packagers are readily filled by J.P. Packaging in a well-controlled proprietary operation that maintains the product integrity and proper dosing (www.jppkg.com).

MUlTiviTaMin BreasT enhancerThe creators of Pupa Cosmetics now offer a clinically proven bust-enhancing product to help customers achieve naturally fuller, firmer, more toned breasts. This multivitamin-packed cream supports breasts like a natural bra and increases them by up to one cup size in just 8 weeks, making it a dream cream for ‘breast-challenged’ women! From the very first application, Pupa Multivitamin AEF Breast Enhancer Intensive Treatment starts working on the subcutaneous adipose cells, stimulating them to accumulate lipids. After just 15 days of regular treatment, morning and evening, the first results are visible: breasts are rounder, fuller, more even and voluminous. A clinical trial (30 women for 8 weeks) revealed that 93% of the participants agreed that they had rounder breasts, 90% confirmed that their breasts were firmer and more compact, and 97% agreed that their skin felt more supple and nourished. Recommended for anyone who desires more youthful looking breasts, the cream contains Vit-A-Like, Bio-Soy Complex, vitamin E and vitamin F. For more information, visit www.pupa.it.

rpc llanTrisanT confirMs iTs ManUfacTUring wisdoMRPC Containers Llantrisant has developed a bespoke plastic bottle to provide Wisdom Toothbrushes with a fresh new appearance for its extended range of mouthwashes. Renowned for more than 200 years for its expertise in toothbrushes, Wisdom wanted to relaunch its complementary range of mouthwash products with an exciting, revitalized look. In addition to two existing flavours, Wisdom Fresh Effect Freshmint and Coolmint, Wisdom is launching two new products, Wisdom Fresh Effect Whitening and Fresh Effect Total Care, using the new container. “The intention was to develop a bottle design that would be unique to Wisdom and offer us the maximum amount of impact and stand-out on shelf,” explains Eleanor Farrant, Marketing Manager at Wisdom. “At the same time, it was vital that the bottle had a larger labelling area for increased communication of the products’ benefits.” As one of Wisdom’s incumbent packaging suppliers, RPC LLantrisant was recommended by the brand’s manufacturing partners as the ideal candidate to devise the new bottle. Blow-moulded in PET, the handy 500 mL size combines tapered sides with a pleasingly curved base for an eye-catching overall effect. After filling, it is closed with a dosing cap and labelled with vivid new designs that highlight the prestigious Wisdom name to its full advantage (www.rpc-llantrisant.co.uk).

Marchesini open hoUse From 18–22 October, Marchesini will open its doors to customers, the press and anyone who’d like to take a closer look at how the company serves the pharmaceutical and cosmetic packaging markets. The Open House event (Pianoro, Italy) will be an opportunity to present Marchesini’s state-of-the-art technology, cutting-edge solutions and novel innovations. Many new products for the packaging of solid and powder products will be on show, including five complete blister lines (MB460, MB451 Evolution, MB430 and Integra 200), a complete counting line and the new MSP560 stickpack filler. In the liquid production area, a robotic “No Contact” syringe line will be displayed, as well as the new FSP5 syringe filler and the Steril 200 vial filler. Dedicated areas will focus on track and trace, robotics and after sales. In all, 15 complete lines and 70 machines will be showcased. Last, but by no means least, the engineering department will illustrate how the company’s widespread foreign network is organized and able to serve every corner of the globe (www.marchesini.com).

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8 autumn 2010

News

powerfUl anTiageing properTiesOne year after successfully launching its biomimetic TEGO Pep 4-17, Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH has published further studies to support the peptide’s already established activity. Previously, in-house trials demonstrated that the skin was perceivably smoother when TEGO Pep 4-17 was used. Likewise, the study revealed a reduction in skin roughness and strong skin-firming activity. Now, further in vivo clinical testing, conducted by Prof. Krutman from IUF Düsseldorf (Germany), has shown a significant increase in the amount of collagen, hyaluronic acid and fibronectin in the dermis. Thus, TEGO Pep 4-17 is able to boost the most important components of the extracellular matrix (ECM), which is an important factor for antiageing products. Another facial antiwrinkle study, done at an independent test institute, verified that this skin-identical peptide improves all kinds of periorbital wrinkles, resulting in superior antiageing efficacy. This innovative active ingredient is designed for use in antiageing preparations, as well as antiwrinkle eye care products (www.evonik.com).

Mascaras Take The plUngeINTERPOLYMER has added to its Bimodal Technology Platform for the personal care market. SYNTRAN PC 5775 is exclusively designed for water-resistant mascara, eyeliner and colour cosmetic formulations. Its film forming properties provide quick-setting, superior water-resistance, adhesion and flexibility. INTERPOLYMER’s innovative bimodal technology employs an interpenetrating network of cationic and anionic polymer chains, and SYNTRAN PC 5775 is specifically engineered to deliver enhanced hydrophobic properties for longer-wear formulations. A mascara formulation based on SYNTRAN 5775

demonstrated better resistance to wash-off after water immersion (15 minutes) compared with other film formers. SYNTRAN PC 5775 provides the end-user with a long-lasting water-resistant mascara or eyeliner. It not only reduces smudging and improves the long-lasting effect, but also resists wash-off when in contact with water or tears. The company is also highlighting its newly developed paraben-free grades of SYNTRAN polymers to meet the demands of formulators and maintain global acceptance (www.interpolymer.com).

verTese laUnches “good looking” sUppleMenTAfter identifying a gap in the market for a vegetarian and vegan-friendly beauty supplement, Vertese, a Brunel Healthcare brand, has launched gelatin-free “Skin, Hair and Eyes” capsules. The brand is renowned for being a pioneer in the supplement market and, true to form, Skin, Hair and Eyes has a completely unique combination of properties. Skin, Hair and Eyes contains the natural antioxidant Lutein, which is widely recognized as a key eye health ingredient. The product is Vertese’s first foray into the lucrative “Beauty from Within” sector and the launch aims to introduce new consumers to the brand. Vertese Marketing Manager, Lizzie Hardy, explains: “The brand has attracted a very loyal consumer base because of our commitment to using only vegetarian-friendly ingredients. Increasingly, we were hearing from our consumers that they wanted a vegetarian beauty supplement; so, after extensive research, we developed Skin, Hair and Eyes. The product remains true to our vegan credentials but we anticipate that it will attract new consumers to the Vertese range as it is the only product on the market that combines ingredients to help support eye sight, as well as skin and hair.” Visit www.vertese.com for further details.

The Vertese brand has attracted a very loyal consumer base

because of our commitment to using only vegetarian-friendly ingredients.

2010 autumn

BoTanical BaBy rangeCanada’s leading supplier of upscale vanity mirrors and cosmetic bags for nearly 50 years, Danielle Exclusive Creations Ltd, is proud to be entering the UK with Naturally Baby, their newest addition to the best-selling botanical body care and gift brand, under the Upper Canada Soap banner. With the natural trend taking on greater momentum in the baby, pregnancy and children’s markets, Danielle Exclusive Creations Ltd anticipates strong results in the UK for the Naturally Baby range, which is being sold in more than 500 retail outlets across the UK in 2010. “Naturally Baby is a great brand extension of the popular Naturally Upper Canada Range. It provides great value and an ideal gift item,” said Brett Bateman, Managing Director, Danielle Exclusive Creations Ltd UK. Made from all natural, gentle ingredients and free from parabens, mineral oils, SLS and synthetic dyes, Naturally Baby stands out as a competitively priced range with an eco-positioning. A gentle wild mint lime fragrance is subtle and fresh, yet luxurious, but will not irritate baby’s sensitive skin. With five unique SKUs to cover all baby’s needs, the Naturally Baby range has widespread appeal for gift boutiques, independents and eco-retailers alike. The upscale, eye-catching design of the Naturally Baby range boasts soft unisex colours and adorable images, whereas the products are packaged in tinted bottles to accentuate the natural brand positioning and protect the product from sun damage. Well priced and attractive, the Naturally Baby range makes for an ideal gift year-round (http://uppercanadasoap.com).

advanced personal care MaTerials froM MoMenTiveMomentive Performance Materials (www.momentive.com) has announced two new personal care products: Silsoft AX conditioning agent and Tospearl AQ microspheres. These breakthrough materials, which are available globally, are another example of Momentive’s heritage: almost 70 years of being first to market with technology based solutions that positively impact and improve everyday life. Silsoft AX conditioning agent can help manufacturers of hair care products to offer enhanced sleekness, shine and manageability for hair. In hair care formulations, the molecular structure of Silsoft AX conditioning agent may significantly enhance the smoothness and softness of damaged and undamaged hair, without stickiness or greasiness, while improving colour retention. Tospearl AQ microspheres can provide a smoother and silkier sensory experience, enhanced blurring of fine lines and wrinkles, and improved rub-in for water-based skincare formulations, sunscreens, antiageing products and moisturizers. Stable at low pH, Tospearl AQ microspheres are coated with a cationic polymer. Because of this coating, the product can be incorporated easily into the water phase of oil-in-water emulsions. “These new products continue Momentive’s tradition of providing powerful new solutions for personal care formulators as they develop the higher-performance products that consumers are demanding,” said Beatriz Blanco, global marketing director, Momentive. “We are committed to putting the best science and advanced research to work for our customers.”

oUTdoor proTecTion froM Beyond coasTalFrom the mountains to the ocean, and everywhere in between, Beyond Coastal has developed a range of sun care products for active outdoor lifestyles. With natural ingredients such as grape seed, algae extract, green tea and others, outdoor people need not worry about overly dry or oily skin or suffer the effects of chemical-laden sunscreens with Beyond Coastal. The company’s Natural SPF 30 Sunscreen is water resistant and won’t sting the eyes. It protects, nourishes, repairs and hydrates. Containing antioxidant and antiageing ingredients, Natural SPF 30 Sunscreen is formulated in accordance with the Whole Foods Premium Body Care Standard and the EWG’s Campaign for Safe Cosmetics, guaranteeing a clean healthy sunscreen. Active Daily 30 SPF is specifically designed for high sun exposure activities with maximum UVA protection. It’s fast absorbing, non-greasy and water-resistant. Provitamin B, shea butter and rose hip oil moisturize and help to maintain skin cell balance. Natural antioxidants from yerba mate, green tea and algae extract scavenge free radicals and restore skin tone. Beyond Coastal also offers a Kids Natural SPF 30 Sunscreen for children with sensitive skin. With an SPF rating of 30 and naturally active Zn and Ti, Kids Natural provides powerful UVA protection. Extra shea and cocoa butter help to keep your children’s skin smooth and soft and aloe, comfrey, grape seed and green tea are natural antioxidant skin restorers. It’s also fragrance-, oil- and paraben-free. Finally, Beyond Coastal’s all natural broad-spectrum lip balm offers powerful UVA protection with micronized zinc oxide. Hydrating beeswax moisturizes the lips, keeping them naturally soft, smooth and young (www.beyondcoastal.com).

9

With an extensive marketing programme, we are confident we will get consumers’ attention and interest nationwide.

Show Preview

The cosmetics and

toiletries market

in Asia is set to

grow 16% by 2012.

With the continent

being home to half of the world’s

population, and boasting a

sustained economic growth rate,

there is — naturally — huge scope

for development in this area. With

that in mind, there couldn’t be

a better time for the continent’s

leading personal care ingredients

exhibition to stage its return to

one of the hubs of the Asian

cosmetics industry. Promising to

be the most exciting event in its

3-year history, in-cosmetics Asia

will take place on 2–4 November

at BITEC, Bangkok, with more

than 200 leading cosmetics

suppliers set to showcase a

spectacular range of new and

innovative cosmetic ingredients

and services to R&D, production

and marketing specialists. To

highlight the importance of the

event, major industry players will

have a presence at this year’s

event, including Cognis, Croda,

Dow Corning, DSM and ISP

Asia Pacific. In addition, 41 new

exhibitors will also be making

their debut at the show. First-time

exhibitors keen to capitalize on

the fact that Thailand’s cosmetic

manufacturers import 90% of their

ingredients will include Breko,

Cobiosa, Green Flower Cosmetics

and CP Kelco, to name a few.

In addition to a host of

international exhibitors from more

than 21 countries, there will also

be a strong regional presence

at in-cosmetics Asia, including

companies from China, Hong

Kong, India, Japan, Malaysia,

Singapore, South Korea, Taiwan

and Thailand, all highlighting the

very latest Asian developments.

With visitor registration already

up 58% on the 2009 event, there

is sure to be plenty of business

activity and interaction.

in-cosmetics Asia will also

deliver its best ever educational

programme, featuring a new

Innovation Zone, the Facial

Beauty Conference, Regulation

and Formulation workshops,

Marketing Trends Presentations

and Innovation Seminars,

providing an unmissable

opportunity for visitors to enhance

their commercial, scientific and

marketing knowledge.

UniqUe visiTor aTTracTionsFor the first time this year, the

show will have an entire section

dedicated to the industry’s

most cutting-edge products.

The Innovation Zone will house

the latest ingredient launches

from the likes of Bioland, Croda,

Mibelle Biochemistry, Lubrizol,

Regeron, Thor (represented by

Chemico) and IRB, as well as a

mix of prestige and mass market

beauty and grooming products

sourced by Mintel, enabling

visitors to quickly identify the

major industry launches. Daily

demonstrations by Mintel will also

be part of the feature. Facial

beauty is one of the hottest topics

on the Asian skincare industry

agenda and will play a pivotal

role at the show this year. The

Facial Beauty Conference, held

during the second day of the

exhibition, will see renowned

international specialists present

on topics in three key areas:

skin whitening, antiageing and

antiacne. Skin whitening is an

extremely profitable sector in Asia.

Worth an estimated $18 billion on

the continent alone, the industry

has been rapidly accelerating

since the 1970s, providing huge

commercial opportunities for

global cosmetic manufacturers

to profit from the trend. Speakers

presenting at the Conference will

include Dr Nopadon, President

of the Thailand Dermatology

Society, Fabrice Perin, Director

at Spincontrol Asia and Romuald

Vallee, Scientific and Industrial

Manager at Codif International.

The antiageing phenomenon

also continues to gather

momentum, with the worldwide

market expected to reach $115.5

billion by the end of 2010, and

Asia-Pacific is a big contributor

to this. Dr Helen Knaggs from Nu

Skin, Dr Panvipa Krisdaphong,

Director at Dermscan Asia, Dr Liki

von Oppen-Bezalel, VP Business

Development and Marketing

at IBR Ltd and Dr Gilles Pauly,

Scientific Director at Laboratoires

Sérobiologiques, will look at

approaches to the issue of

antiageing. Fair and flawless

skin is a number one priority for

Asians. However, pollution and

humidity in Asia has aggravated

skin problems for many people,

meaning the demand for

medicated skincare and antiacne

treatments has soared. Experts

presenting in this strand will

include Dr Simon Young, Director

of Regulatory and External Affairs

at Unilever Asia, Dr Alain Khaiat,

President of Seers Consulting

and Prof. Dr Johann W. Wiechers,

President of JW Solutions.

regUlaTe and forMUlaTeThere will be a series of theoretical

and practical workshops at

in-cosmetics Asia this year, delving

into two of the industry’s hottest

topics: regulations and formulation.

Following the launch of the new EU

Cosmetics Regulation, cofounder

and president of Biorius, Jean-

Jacques Bourgois will address

“Regulations for Exporting to

Europe,” whereas Prof. Dr Johann

Wiechers will examine “Basic and

Advanced Formulation.” Jean-

energizing The

Asian BeaUTy BUsinessin-cosmetics Asia gears up for its most spectacular event yet!

10 autumn 2010

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Jacques will explore the key issues

that Asian exporters must address

by examining an in-depth study of

ISO GMP Standards, which gives

guidelines for the production,

control, storage and shipment of

cosmetic products. Meanwhile,

“HLB in Action: Theory and Practice

of Stabilizing Topical Formulations”

will be critical for those keen to

master physical stability — one of

the fundamental principals behind

cosmetic formulation. “Effective

Formulating Beyond HLB: Advance

Level” will teach delegates how

to optimize the physical stability,

sensory characteristics and active

skin delivery of a formulation all

at once.

The comprehensive

educational programme will

also include another highly

popular feature, the Marketing

Trends Presentations. This year’s

agenda will feature three

streams: trends, country focus

and practical advice, with

highlights including “Natural

Trends and Sustainability” from

Kline, “Brands, Islam and the New

Muslim Consumer” by Ogilvy,

“Antiageing in Japan” from

Hinako Sugioka Israel of Mintel,

“Halal Cosmetics: Embracing

Universal Values” by Darhim

Hashim of the Halal Integrity

Alliance and a presentation

on the marketing opportunities

opened up by the China-ASEAN

Free Trade Agreement from

Access Asia. Those keen to

discover more about the latest

ingredients and formulation

techniques can do so at the

Innovation Seminars. All 21 slots

have already been filled by the

likes of Rhodia Asia, presenting

on “Efficient Rheology Control

for Cleansing Formulations,” DSM

Nutritional Products highlighting

“A Multifunctional Approach

to Skin Lightening” and Indena

looking at “Zanthelene: A Novel

Lifting Agent” … and many more.

in-cosmetics Asia attracts

leading ingredient and raw

material suppliers, enabling

visitors to discover new, innovative

products and services whilst

boosting their business, scientific

and technical knowledge.

Attendees will benefit from all the

major players being under one

roof and meeting with experts

whilst discussing the next big

trends in the growing personal

care market. phM

for More inforMaTionin-cosmetics Asia2–4 November 2010BITEC, Bangkok, Thailand.www.in-cosmeticsasia.com

12 autumn 2010

Skincare

appearing earlier

on the face than

other types of

wrinkle — in people

as young as 30 —

could be a reason why expression

lines are a key target for the

cosmetic industry. Consumer

research suggests that antiageing

is no longer just a concern for

middle-aged consumers looking

to reverse the effects of time,

younger people are also seeking

preventive, age-defying solutions

(Mintel, 2010).1

It has been a long and fruitful

journey since Lipotec introduced

its first peptide specifically

designed to attenuate expression

lines, stimulating the market

and promoting research into

alternative solutions. That launch,

although significant, is clearly

not the only reason behind

the company’s pioneering

status in this field. Important

technological advances have

yielded further innovative

discoveries, specifically designed

to diminish this unpleasant sign

of ageing. Rapid improvements

in wrinkle reduction have been

supported by an integrated

research and development

programme that has focused,

at the cellular level, at both pre-

and post-synaptic activity and

a wide range of science-based

actives that target different

aspects of muscle contraction,

the fundamental origin of this

premature ageing sign. The

concept of molecular cosmetics

has been used to identify the

independent mechanisms that

lead to the muscle relaxation

required to attenuate expression

wrinkles. It has not been an easy

undertaking and would not

have been possible without the

company’s inherent and strong

commitment to innovation,

and its continued investment in

sustained R&D.

a parTicUlar Type of wrinkleExpression wrinkles or mimic

lines such as frown lines and

crow’s feet are formed by

the constant action of the

corresponding facial muscle,

as a result of blinking, smiling or

frowning. They are a natural part

of ageing. As you grow older,

your skin gets thinner, drier and

less elastic … and it becomes

more susceptible to damage.

More Than a facT of lifeThe modern-day cosmetic industry specializes

in a wide variety of skincare strategies, using a

large number of facial care ingredients to tackle

a whole gamut of cosmetic functionalities,

from acne, skin brightening and firming to DNA

damage … to name but a few. One of the most

common and premature signs of ageing, in both

women and men, is expression wrinkles; solutions

to this side-effect of age continue to drive

innovation in the sector, offering new launches

every year and remaining a highly popular focus

in the antiageing market.

keeping Up wiTh innovaTion The cosmetic industry is, inherently, one of the most energetic; even so, it appears to be gathering pace and developing even faster these days. Lipotec, as a company committed to innovation, is delighted to be attending in-cosmetics Asia in Bangkok and presenting the latest improvements to its wide range of molecular actives. Owing to its proven efficacy to increase cell tolerance against daily stressors, such as UV radiation, extreme temperatures or jet-lag, to name but a few, Thermostressine will definitely be a key ingredient in the fight for stress-free skin at this year’s event. Lipotec’s team, supported by its distribution partners, will be pleased to meet you at the exhibition, update you about this new launch and discuss other approaches that keep Lipotec at the forefront of antiageing technology. As with Inyline, the cosmetic ingredient designed to safely induce post-synaptic muscle relaxation, this molecular active will be also be discussed in the “Two Complementary Synaptic Mechanisms Targeting Expression Lines” innovation seminar (2 November at 12:00). Please visit Stand D40 for more information (www.lipotec.com).

Figure 1: Mechanisms of action of Lipotec’s antwrinkle actives.

132010 autumn

As a result, wrinkles, lines and

creases form in your skin. With

time, and exacerbated by

unhealthy habits and/or external

stressors, these lines progressively

become permanent. Because of

how they form, the age at which

they appear and the facial

area in which they develop,

the treatment of expression

wrinkles required an exacting

scientific approach. Any

reliable cosmetic solution,

therefore, had to target

the origin — the muscle

contraction mechanism.

independenT BUT coMBinaBle sTraTegiesMuscle contraction involves both

a motor neuron, a neuromuscular

junction (NMJ) — where the axons

of motor nerves meet the muscle,

thus transmitting messages from

the brain that cause the muscle

to contract and relax — and the

associated muscle fibre. Whereas

the motor neuron contributes

to the presynaptic pathway by

releasing the neurotransmitter,

acetylcholine (ACh), the post-

synaptic muscle fibre — with ACh

receptors (AChR) on its surface

— binds the neurotransmitter,

which creates an action

potential that leads to muscle

contraction. Lipotec’s expertise

on this field has provided

the cosmetic industry with

cutting-edge muscle relaxation

solutions to attenuate expression

wrinkles using independent but

combinable strategies.

• Presynaptically, using actives

that inhibit the release of

ACh from the motor neuron

(Argireline, SNAP-8 or Leuphasyl)

• Post-synaptically, using actives

designed to prevent the

ligand-to-receptor (ACh–AChR)

binding responsible for the

formation of the action

potential (Inyline).

Designed to mimic the

N-terminal end of SNAP-25,

a protein that plays a key

role in muscle stimulation,

Argireline and SNAP-8 both act

presynaptically to compete with

the naturally occurring protein for

a position in the SNARE complex,

an essential step for synaptic ACh

release. Consequently, as the

vesicle is unable to release ACh

from the motor neuron, muscle

contraction is attenuated. An

in vivo trial showed a decrease

in furrow depth of 16.26% after

30 days of treatment with a

cream containing a 5% Argireline

solution.

Recognized to modulate

vesicle fusion with the cellular

membrane by closing the

calcium channels, Leuphasyl

also demonstrated good in vivo

results, reducing wrinkles by an

average of 11.64% with a 5%

formulation. The additional

value for manufacturers is that

a combination of the three

peptides is entirely feasible. After

using a solution comprising 5%

Argireline and 5% Leuphasyl,

a mean decrease of 24.62% —

reaching a maximum of 46.53%

— was observed, confirming in

vivo the combined effects of the

individual treatments.

Inyline works post-synaptically,

acting once ACh has been

released from motor neuron but

before the signal is transmitted

to the AChRs. Its antiwrinkle

efficacy was trialled with a

cream (5% Inyline solution) and

showed a significant decrease

in wrinkle depth of 14.9% after

28 days of treatment. Inyline, a

novel hexapeptide designed

using molecular modelling,

reduces the activation of MuSK

(Muscle-Specific Kinase) by

blocking the agrin binding

site. As such, it disrupts

AChR clustering, one of the

requirements for ACh to trigger

the contraction signal along

the NMJ. Not only does Inyline

represent a post-synaptic

strategy to minimize the

formation of expression lines by

targeting a specific biological

mechanism, it’s also another

example of why Lipotec is a

genuine ally in the fight against

premature skin ageing (Figure 1).

conclUsionFrom concept to full product

market placement, Lipotec’s

approach to expression

wrinkle treatment is an integral

process that brings a variety of

independent but combinable

cosmetic actives together

to target different aspects of

muscle contraction. A global

combinatorial chemistry-based

research effort, supported by

the most advanced techniques

and methods — such as

high-throughput screening or

molecular modelling — were

used, depending on the

mechanism of interest. What

should be common to all claims

is what the skin actually requires:

genuinely active ingredients

that act safely on a specific

type of line or wrinkle to prevent

them becoming indelible. Both

presynaptic and post-synaptic

approaches have been shown

to reliably attenuate expression

wrinkles, by inhibiting the release

of ACh or preventing it from

binding to its receptors on the

muscle fibre, so impeding muscle

contraction. The high level of

efficacy of the molecular actives

involved confirms their ability

to target wrinkle formation,

both independently and in

combination. It is an example of

a molecular cosmetic approach

to reduce the depth of a

common sign of ageing. phM

reference1. Mintel, Skincare: Facial Care

(March 2010).

Molecular cosmetics is about scientific rigor and committed research, using rigorous techniques and approaches to treat and prevent a specific target with an innovative range of molecular actives.

for More inforMaTionRaquel Merino, Marketing and Communication, and Míriam Mateu, DocumentationLipotec Isaac Peral, 17E-08850 Gavà, Barcelona, Spain.Tel. +34 9 3638 8000commercial@lipotec.comwww.lipotec.com

Argireline® and Leuphasyl® are registered trademarks, and Inyline™ is a trademark, of Lipotec SA (Spain).

14 autumn 2010

Skincare

a randomized

placebo-

controlled trial has

demonstrated the

synergistic effect

of Institut Rosell-Lallemand’s

probiotic preparation, Lacidofil,

and emollient treatment on

young children with atopic

dermatitis (AD) and cow milk

allergy. This clinical study,

conducted by Dr Chernyshov

(National Medical University,

Kiev, Ukraine) showed a

significant effect of the probiotic

treatment on AD severity and

the use of corticosteroids.

Moreover, immunological

studies showed the probiotic to

have an immunomodulating

effect, indicating a shift towards

immune tolerance in allergic

patients. These results reinforce a

previous study that demonstrated

Lacidofil’s ability to reduce AD

severity and improve Quality of

Life indices in young patients and

their parents. Atopic dermatitis

has become a widespread health

concern affecting as many as

20% of preschool children and

about one in 20 adults. The

randomized study involved 58

children under the age of 4 with

atopic dermatitis and cow milk

allergy. All the children were

treated with an emollient cream

and a bath preparation. In

addition, 30 children received a

once-daily capsule (equivalent

to 2 billion probiotic bacteria)

of Lacidofil — a combination

of Lactobacillus Rosell-11 and

Lactobacillus Rosell-52 — for one

month. The other 28 children

received a placebo. The extent

and severity of AD was evaluated

using the SCORAD Index and

immunological parameters were

also assessed at day 0 and 30.1

When compared with the

placebo group, the probiotic

treatment induced

• a marked reduction of AD

severity (SCORAD index) in

63.3% of children compared

with 32.1% (p = 0.02)

• a steroid-sparing effect (10% of

children used a steroid cream

compared with 32% in the

placebo group)

• community a significant

reduction of AD severity in

patients who did not use the

topical steroid (SCORAD index

from 30.6–20.9; p>0.01 in the

probiotic group, no significant

difference in the placebo

group)

• a significant decrease in a

certain subset of activated T

cells, potentially associated

with AD

• an increase of a subtype of

antibodies directed against

cow milk allergen (IgG4),

considered to be a marker for

immune-tolerance.

The investigators of the trial

concluded that: “In our study,

more patients treated with

Lacidofil achieved satisfactory

clinical results with fewer

episodes of the use of topical

corticosteroids than those who

received a placebo. It was shown

that the probiotic preparation

had a synergistic effect with

the emollient, reducing AD

severity and reinforcing its

corticosteroid-sparing effect. The

synergistic action of Lacidofil-

plus-emollient was also confirmed

by immunologic changes that

may be considered to be a shift

to immune tolerance. Emollients

and probiotics have different

modes of action and could be

combined with each other and

with other medications in AD

patients. Solutions with potential

steroid-sparing effects in AD

patients are extremely important.”

Atopic Dermatitis (AD) or atopic

eczema is an inflammatory,

chronically relapsing, non-

contagious and pruritic skin

disorder. It is a very common

condition that represents a major

public health problem worldwide.

Its prevalence has markedly

increased during the past decade

and it is considered to affect as

many as 20% of preschool children

in Western Europe. One in three

children with AD will retain the

condition in adult life. An estimated

one in 20 adults has AD. There is

no absolutely efficient treatment.

According to the International

Consensus Conference on Atopic

Dermatitis (ICCAD II), treatment

of a patient with AD is based

on a combination of auxiliary

basic therapy, anti-inflammatory

preparations and the identification

and elimination of inducing factors

whenever possible. Common

treatments include the regular use

of emollients (moisturizers) and

topical steroids. AD strongly affects

the Quality of Life of patients and

their family. Until now, data about

probiotic efficiency in AD patients

were disparate. In a recent

meta-analysis of ten randomized

controlled trials, probiotics were

found to reduce the severity of AD

in approximately half of the trials

evaluated.2 phM

Probiotic Lacidofil reduces the severity of atopic dermatitis and shows a corticosteroid-sparing effect in young children.

for More inforMaTionSylvie Roquefeuil DedieuPress OfficerInstitut Rosell-LallemandTel. +33 6 8472 7610sroquefeuil-dedieu@rosell.comwww.institut-rosell-lallemand.com

proBioTics and skincarea case sTUdy

references1. P.V. Chernyshov, “Randomized,

Placebo-Controlled Trial on Clinical and Immunologic Effects of Probiotic Containing Lactobacillus rhamnosus R0011 and L. helveticus R0052 in Infants with Atopic Dermatitis,” Microb. Ecol. Health Dis. 21(3–4), 228–232 (2009).

2. S.K. Michail, et al., “Efficacy of Probiotics in the Treatment of Pediatric Atopic Dermatitis: A Meta-Analysis of Randomized Controlled Trials,” Ann. Allergy Asthma Immunol. 101(5), 508–516 (2008).

16 autumn 2010

Skincare

But it’s not just the

cosmetic angle that

Thais are devoting

so much of their time

and effort to recreate.

The pollution and humid weather

conditions in South and South

East Asia have long been the

cause of many an aggravated

skin problem for Asian consumers,

meaning a high proportion of

the population now suffers from

acne and demand for medicated

skincare and antiacne treatments

has soared. In 2009, the Asia-

Pacific market for these products

was worth approximately $119.5

million — according to Euromonitor

International — and this is

predicted to rise by more than 17%

to a140.4 million by 2014. But what

is the root cause of this problem?

Acne is a skin condition that

affects 90% of teenagers around

the world. It can be categorized

into three types — mild, moderate

and severe — depending on the

severity of the visible skin lesions.

Acne vulgaris is a condition

affecting the pilosebaceous unit.

It is an inflammatory disorder of

the sebaceous gland that results

in comedones, papules, pustules

and occasional nodules.

It begins during puberty when

there is a burst of hormone

activity. Testosterone plays an

important role, being reduced

into dihydrotestosterone [DHT] by

an enzyme — 5-alpha reductase

— in the sebaceous gland.

DHT stimulates the sebaceous

gland to release sebum, which

leads to oily skin. The sebum is a

mixture of triglycerides that are

hydrolysed into free fatty acids

(FFA) of lower viscosity. One of the

hypotheses suggested some time

ago was that triglycerides acted

as the feedback mechanism by

regulating the oil secretion. As

such, the more hydrolysis that takes

place, the less feedback and,

thereby, the more sebum secretion

and excretion there is. The excess

oil sticks dead skin cells and the

pilosebaceous walls together,

creating a plug and enlarging the

pore. If the pore remains open, the

cells and the sebum will oxidize to

give a black colour. This is known as

a blackhead or open comedone.

If a membrane of skin closes the

pore, it is known as a whitehead or

a closed comedone.

The mixture of dead cells and

oil creates the ideal environment

for bacteria — Propionibacterium

acnes — to grow and reproduce.

The bacterial lipases further

hydrolyse the sebum and

increase secretion, whilst the

acidity of the free fatty acids

leads to inflammation. This

inflammation creates free radicals

that increase hyperkeratinization

and, in turn, help bacterial

proliferation. In countries where

acne products are regulated as

drugs, there is often an approved

list of ingredients that can be

used, with benzoyl peroxide

(BPO), salicylic acid and sulphur

being among the more common

ones. However, as these are

antibacterial actives, it means

that the regulators have only

considered one aspect of acne

physiology; the consequences as

opposed to the cause.

Conversely, modern products

tend to address other aspects

of the cycle, leading to more

efficient, milder products that have

a better compatibility with the skin.

Most will combine salicylic acid

(which is oil soluble) and benefits

from anti-inflammatory ingredients.

These usually enable the lesion

to disappear in one to three

days of continuous treatment,

rather than seven to ten days with

antibacterial products alone. Acne

is not a simple microinfection. It

is a complex mechanism that

starts with an increase in sebum

production. Today, only about

10–20% of people with acne

use products in an attempt

to cure it, with most resorting

to physically squeezing the

pimples. Many people think this

is the result of an inadequate

product offering, with many

solutions reported as creating

dryness and irritation. Inevitably,

research amongst teenagers

confirms they want the problem

to disappear overnight without

the associated dryness or

redness, so that is the next

challenge for the global

cosmetics industry. phM

in-cosMeTics asia faces Up To skincare

Facial beauty is a lucrative business in Asia. Appearance has become a particularly important concern for Thais of both genders and of all age segments, with society favouring the fair and flawless look. The increasing number of dermatological clinics, particularly in urban regions, is testament to this growing trend, with consumers being more than willing to spend their disposable income on treatments and high-end skincare products.

for More inforMaTionDr Alain Khaiat, PhDPresident of Seers Consultinginfo@seersconsulting.comwww.seersconsulting.com

anTiacne presenTaTionAlain Khaiat will be presenting on The Physiology of Acne at the in-cosmetics Asia Facial Beauty Conference on 3 November at 16:55–17:25. The show takes place on 2–4 November at BITEC, Bangkok, Thailand. Visit www.in-cosmeticsasia.com for more details.

Alain Khaiat

in-cosMeTics asia faces Up To skincare

Skincare

18 autumn 2010

The natural

desquamation

process creates

new skin cells at

the basal level

and, as these skin cells age,

they navigate to the top of

the epidermis and then shed

away. The normal cell cycle

ranges from 26–42 days. This

process functions effortlessly

during the initial decades of

life; but, as we age, the process

becomes delinquent and

needs assistance. Chemical

exfoliation is the equivalent of a

cellular jumpstart — recreating

the ideal skin renewal process.

The most widely recognized

alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids

are lactic, glycolic, salicylic,

Modified Jessner and TCA

(trichloroacetic acid). These

acids will cause superficial

skin cells to desquamate at an

increased rate and will normalize

the exuviation process. Glycolic

acid is a universal ingredient

and has a broad range of uses.

It has a low molecular weight

of 76 daltons that results in rapid

absorption. Lactic acid will

reduce corneocyte cohesion in

the stratum corneum, leading

to reduced trans-epidermal

water loss (TEWL), a more even

distribution of melanocytes

and increased epidermal

thickening. Salicylic acid is

lipophilic; it will penetrate the

skin through the pore and

then digest the debris and oil

present in the follicle. It is also

an antibacterial acid, making

it beneficial for hyperkeratosis,

acne, rosacea, oily and textured/

rough skin. Modified Jessner

is a chemical exfoliant that is

named after a New York-based

dermatologist who advocated

the use of 14% lactic acid,

salicylic acid and resorcinol as a

treatment for oily skin, acne and

hyperpigmentation fine lines. It

is often used as a combination

treatment. TCA causes protein

coagulation and will minimize

rhytides, hyperpigmentation,

uneven texture and acne scars.

Chemical exfoliants are

classified by their depth of

penetration into the skin, ranging

from light, more superficial

treatments to advanced

exfoliation, depending on the

skin’s specific needs. There are

multiple ways to individualize

a programme and make a

treatment more or less aggressive

to best suit each client. The

beauty therapist has the ability to

design a customized programme

to foster the results that best

align with the client’s lifestyle

and needs. There are many

factors to be considered with

chemical exfoliation treatment.

These factors will determine

the outcome of the treatment,

the overall performance

and depth of the chemical

exfoliation. Just as important as

the acid percentage is the pH

level. The lower the pH of the

chemical exfoliant, the higher

the free acid amount that can

penetrate. Side-effects of a

low pH include irritation and

erythema. When formulating,

careful consideration is required

to create a product that has a

low enough pH for penetration

but results in minimal irritation to

the client. In general, the pH of

a professional peel will be in the

range of 1–2.5.

During the treatment, the

beauty therapist has many

opportunities to customize the

procedure. Lactic and glycolic

acid are monitored according

to the length of time they’re on

the skin whereas salicylic acid,

Modified Jessner and TCA are

applied in layers. To increase

intensity, the peels can be left

for longer on the skin or applied

in multiple layers. More abrasive

navigaTe yoUr skin To radianT BeaUTy wiTh cheMical exfoliaTionWould you like a healthy glow, softened fine lines and reduced wrinkles? Does an even tone, softer,

smoother skin, softened sunspots and/or controlled oil production and breakouts sound appealing?

Without embellishment, these are the results of a programme consisting of chemical exfoliation

treatments and homecare products: the application of science-created ingredients called alpha- and

beta-hydroxy acids that loosen intercellular bonds and promote the release of dead skin cells.

finishing ToUchesExfoliation treatments can be enhanced with the use of an end-stage serum.• gloSuper Serum: antiageing benefits with 1% retinol• gloRenew: 1% retinol, 7% glycolic and 2% salicylic acid to moderately

increases exfoliation• gloRetinol CS: 3% retinol to aggressively increase exfoliation• gloLightening Serum: 2% hydroquinone for hyperpigmentation• gloBrightening Serum: a natural alternative for hyperpigmentation• gloTriple Action Serum: 2% hydroquinone, 1% retinol, 1% glycolic acid for

hyperpigmentation.

applicators and increased

pressure will enhance circulation

and promote deeper absorption.

A “peel prep” should be used

prior to the chemical exfoliation

process to degrease the skin.

Varying prep options include

the use of citric, cholic and

gallic acid to reduce sebum

and break up oil — or glycolic

acid at 30% to make a treatment

more aggressive. After applying

the chemical exfoliant, retinol

or retinoic acid may be used to

increase intensity. Typically, this

will cause skin sloughing because

vitamin A stimulates cell renewal.

You can customize the end of the

treatment with any of a number

of serums, depending on the

skin’s needs. Apply the serum

that is best suited to the client to

enhance the results (see sidebar).

hoMecare prodUcTsFor optimal results, prepare the

skin with exfoliants at least 2–4

weeks prior to the first treatment.

Skin conditioning will create a

more uniform peel and allow

the acid to reach a deeper level

of exfoliation. The intangible

assets of skin prepping provide

the beauty therapist with a

preview of how the client’s

skin will respond to chemical

exfoliation. If the client has a

lot of skin sloughing, then the

beauty therapist will be more

cautious with the treatment. If

the client has minimal response,

the beauty therapist can then

be more aggressive with the

treatment. Adherence to home

therapy and treatments will

yield optimal results. Similar to a

weight loss programme, wherein

a workout regimen paired with

healthy eating will help to shift

the pounds, without adherence

to both aspects, the goal will not

be achieved as quickly. Thus, a

series of positive acts involving

products and treatments will

bring the client to his or her

skincare end-result sooner.

After treatment, the skin

goes through a rejuvenation

period requiring products

that are healing and provide

nourishment. These essential

products will optimize the

rejuvenation process by

nourishing and healing the skin.

The client should keep their

skin cool and soothed during

the healing process. The use

of growth factors will support

the skin and provide healing

benefits. Chemical exfoliation

creates a dermatological impact

and has a profound effect on

the structure of the skin. It is

often useful to take a ‘before

and after’ picture to document

the improvements and show

the client the transformation in

stages. To show the progression,

take pictures at 3-, 6- and

12-month increments. The results

will demonstrate the effect of the

process and the client will soon

become an apostle of chemical

exfoliation. Plus, a significant

amount of anecdotal evidence

supports the research behind

chemical exfoliation.

in conclUsionChemical exfoliation has

benefited from the adoption

of advances in chemistry and

formulation technologies.

Scientists now have the ability to

formulate products with broader

solubility parameters and

include additional ingredients

that offer therapeutic benefits.

Further progression down this

path will result in advanced

formulas that are more than just

simple exfoliators. phM

for More inforMaTionSarah Burns-EggenbergerCreator and Brand Manager of glotherapeutics at gloProfessionalTel. +1 303 892 8276 (US)Tel. +44 800 121 8116 (UK)info@glotherapeutics.comwww.gloprofessional.com

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Skincare

20 autumn 2010

Nowadays, what every woman wants is a complexion of pure porcelain. There is an ongoing consumer trend to brighten the skin to give it a more even tone. Furthermore, skin lightening is considered to be an antiageing facet of skincare. In Asia, there is significant demand for whitening products to either lighten the skin complexion generally or to adjust variations in pigmentation. For Caucasian skin, whitening products are used to treat age spots or other forms of hyperpigmentation, such as freckles or darkly pigmented scars.

pigMenTaTion processThe pathway from exposure to

UV light to pigmentation is very

complex and contains many steps.

UV light leads to the generation of

reactive oxidants in keratinocyte

cells that, in turn, release

inflammatory mediators such as

prostaglandins, nitric oxide (NO)

and α-melanocyte-stimulating

hormone (α-MSH). There are

receptors for both prostaglandins

and α-MSH on melanocyte cells

and a lot of research has been

done on a specific receptor for

α-MSH called melanocortin 1

receptor (MC1R). After binding

with α-MSH, the receptor induces

its host melanocyte to promote

the expression of the tyrosinase

gene and to enhance dendricity.

Tyrosinase is the rate-limiting

enzyme in the synthesis of melanin

pigments. Melanin is produced

in specialized organelles, called

melanosomes, which are gradually

filled with pigments, transported

to the peripheral dendrite tips and

then transferred to the surrounding

keratinocytes. There, melanosomes

form a protective shield around the

cell nucleus, producing a uniform

skin colour.

In the past, unwanted

pigmentation was treated by

using actives that inhibited or

reduced the enzymatic activity

of tyrosinase. The whitening

actives marketed today interfere

at different stages of the

pigmentation cascade. A new

series of actives was introduced

that reportedly blocked the

transfer of melanosomes to the

keratinocytes. Another efficient

way to suppress pigmentation

would be to block the upregulation

of the expression of tyrosinase

and to inhibit the stimulation

of melanocyte dendricity. This

could be achieved by interfering

with the binding of keratinocyte

mediators to their receptors on the

melanocytes or by inhibiting the

production of these mediators.

With age spots, two types

of pigments are present, the

melanins and lipofuscin. They are

overproduced in the spot area

because of an overreaction to

UV radiation. In keratinocytes, UV

light leads to the generation of

free radicals and reactive oxygen

species that eventually leads

to the oxidation of proteins and

lipids. Oxidized proteins and lipids

form insoluble, darkly pigmented

complexes called lipofuscin.

The accumulation of oxidized

proteins, and thus lipofuscin

formation, is normally prevented

by the proteasome system. It

is a complex of proteases that

specifically recognizes damaged

proteins and then degrades them

completely. But, proteasome

activity is known to decline with

advancing age, explaining why

uneven pigmentation is a typical

symptom of old age.1 The cosmetic

approach to fading or hiding age

spots is to use whitening products

that are only applied to the spot

area. Chemical peels give more

obvious results but, if not solely

applied to the spot area, the

fading effect is minimal because

the bleaching will whiten the whole

facial area.

naTUrally effecTive Sulforaphane is a plant substance

belonging to the isothiocyanate

group. Isothiocyanates are sulphur-

containing chemicals that are

characteristic of the Brassicaceae

family. Sulforaphane works as

an indirect antioxidant.2 Direct

antioxidants, such as vitamins C

and E, can neutralize an oxidant

once and then need to be

replenished by other antioxidants.

Indirect antioxidants turn on the

expression of a series of genes that

code for cytoprotective proteins.

These proteins are enzymes that

synthesize or regenerate a lot of

The non-sTop search for efficienT whiTening

Figure 1: Effect of SulforaWhite on the expression of antioxidant enzymes. The expression of NADPH:quinone reductase 1 (NQO1), heme oxygenase 1 (HO-1) and thioredoxin reductase 1 (TrxR1) was measured using real-time PCR.

Figure 2: Inhibition of melanin production in B-16 melanocytes.

212010 autumn

different direct antioxidants. In

cress sprouts, for example, the

sulforaphane concentration is

20–50 times higher than in mature

vegetables. Four to five day old

garden cress sprouts were used as

the raw material to produce the

commercially available ingredient,

SulforaWhite.

To distinctively treat age spots, a

cosmetic ingredient that combines

an aqueous cress sprout extract

and the soy isoflavone, genistein,

was developed (Delentigo).

Genistein is a well-known natural

inhibitor of tyrosine kinase,

which is reported to be located

on the intracellular side of the

stem cell factor (SCF) receptor.3

There are also reports of the

involvement of tyrosine kinase

in ET-1 (enthothelin-1) signalling.

The messenger molecules ET-1

and SCF are known to be highly

overproduced in age spot

areas.4 This explains the high

melanin content compared with

neighbouring, normally pigmented

skin. Therefore, genistein inhibits

the effects of SCF and — probably

— ET-1 as well on melanocytes.

Delentigo activity takes place

exclusively in the spot area without

provoking a bleach effect on the

adjacent skin.

sTUdy resUlTsExpression of antioxidant enzymes:

The capacity of SulforaWhite

to promote the expression of

antioxidant enzymes was analysed

in vitro using normal human

epidermal keratinocytes. The

method of real-time polymerase

chain reaction (PCR) was used

to measure the expression

of selected genes. Several

antioxidant enzymes were chosen

as representatives of Phase II

(carcinogen defence) enzymes.

• NADPH:quinone reductase 1

(NQO1) is a major

anticarcinogenic enzyme

with a principal role in

transforming quinones into stable

hydroquinones.

• Heme oxygenase 1 (HO-1)

is induced after exposure

to oxidative stress, such as

UV irradiation or hyperoxia,

indicating its role in cellular

defence.

• Thioredoxin reductase 1 (TrxR1)

works together with NADPH to

control the redox balance of

the cell.

• Glutathione peroxidase (GPX1)

has a major role in the reduction

of lipid peroxides and of free

hydrogen peroxide.

The keratinocytes were grown in

standard growth medium to 80%

confluence. Then, the cells were

incubated for 24 hours with 0.05 or

0.2% SulforaWhite. After incubation,

the cells were harvested and total

RNA was extracted. Compared

with the untreated control, the

antioxidant enzyme NQO1 was

moderately stimulated at 0.05%

and strongly stimulated at 0.2%

SulforaWhite (Figure 1). HO-1 and

TrxR1 were both stimulated strongly,

even at the lower SulforaWhite

concentration. The enzyme GPX1

did not respond to SulforaWhite in

this trial.

Inhibition of melanin production:

In an in vitro study conducted on

melanocytes, the garden cress

sprout extract was shown to inhibit

melanin formation. Specific cells

(B-16 melanocytes) were cultivated

with NDP-MSH, a stable derivative

of the natural hormone α-MSH that

stimulates skin pigmentation. The

melanin content was determined

by measuring its optical density

at 405 nm and the cell viability

was evaluated in parallel using

an MTT assay. Results showed that

0.4% SulforaWhite inhibits melanin

formation induced by α-MSH by

44% (Figure 2). This activity is dose-Figure 3: In vivo test results. Skin whitening was determined by chromametric measurements after treatment with 2% SulforaWhite.

22 autumn 2010

Skincare

dependent and is not a cytotoxic

effect artifact as the MTT assay

showed.

Whitening effect of SulforaWhite: A

human clinical trial was conducted

on 22 Asian subjects aged

between 22 and 39. A cream with

2% SulforaWhite was applied twice

daily for 56 days on the inner side

of one forearm. The other forearm

was treated with a placebo

cream. The upper arm was used

as an untreated zone. Skin colour

was measured with a MINOLTA

CR300 chromameter. Whitening

is shown by increased skin clarity,

measured as lightness L*, and by an

increase in Individual Typological

Angle (ITA°). After 56 days of

use, and compared with the

placebo product, the cream with

SulforaWhite induced a significant

increase in lightness L* (+0.5 ± 0.2

AU; p = 0.004) and a significant

increase in the ITA° parameter

(+1.4 ± 0.4 AU; p = 0.004) (Figure 3).

Specific age spot whitening

with Delentigo: The cress sprout

extract turned out to be very

active in a cell-based screening

assay for modulators of the

proteasome system. Proteasome

activity was evaluated by using

the Proteasome-Glo Assay

(Promega) using a substrate whose

degradation by the proteasome

results in a luminescent signal.

Results show that the proteasome

activity in young fibroblasts

(passage 8) was 15% higher than

in old cells (passage 16) (Figure 4).

Four hours after incubation with

the cress sprout extract (0.33%),

the proteasome activity of old

fibroblasts was increased by

71%. By stimulating proteasome

activity, the cress sprout extract

can prevent or reduce the

accumulation of oxidized

proteins and thus inhibit lipofuscin

formation.

A 4% Delentigo cream was

tested in two clinical studies.

The first double-blind, placebo-

controlled study was done with 10

women aged between 47 and 77.

The test cream was applied twice

daily for 4 weeks on defined spots

as well as on normally pigmented

skin areas of one hand. The

placebo cream was applied in a

similar way to the other hand. To

analyse the skin pigmentation, the

melanin index was measured with

the Skin Pigmentation Analyzer

SPA99 (Courage and Khazaka) at

the beginning of the study and

after 4 weeks. The study results

showed that the test cream

could significantly fade the age

spots (Figure 5). After four weeks’

application and compared with

age spots treated with the placebo

cream, the melanin index had

decreased by 6.2%. There was no

difference in the melanin index

of the normally pigmented skin

treated with either the test cream

or the placebo.

conclUsionsA garden cress sprout extract was

demonstrated to exert a significant

whitening activity. The results of

the cell-based assays with B16

cells indicate that SulforaWhite

disrupts the binding of α-MSH

to its receptor on melanocytes.

The whitening mechanism of

SulforaWhite also seems to be

linked to its capacity to protect

against reactive oxidants, the very

first triggers in the pigmentation

cascade. As such, SulforaWhite

exerts a skin whitening effect and,

at the same time, protects against

premature skin ageing. Age spots

are caused by a local overreaction

to sunlight. The result is an increased

formation of two types of pigments,

namely melanin and lipofuscin.

For a treatment to be efficient, the

synthesis of both types of pigments

has to be inhibited. Genistein, a

known tyrosine kinase inhibitor, is

supposed to interfere with the SCF/

ET-1 cytokine signalling that takes

place between keratinocytes

and melanocytes (shown in

the literature to be overactive

in age spots). The cress sprout

extract blocks the activity of

the sunlight-induced paracrine

factor, α-MSH. All these activities

result in the reduced formation

of melanin. The cress sprout

extract acts as a promoter of

the cell’s own defence against

oxidative stress and as a specific

stimulator of the proteasome

system — reducing the formation of

lipofuscin. Therefore, Delentigo acts

specifically in the spot area without

inducing a bleaching effect on the

neighboring skin. phM

for More inforMaTionIrene Montaño, PhDMibelle Biochemistry AGBolimattstr. 1 CH-5033, Buchs, Switzerlandwww.mibellebiochemistry.com

Figure 4: Determination of fibroblast proteasome activity and the effect of a cress sprout extract.

Figure 5: In vivo test results. The melanin index of age spots was measured after treatment with a 4% Delentigo cream.

references1. V.A. Vernace, T. Schmidt-

Glenewinkel and M.E. Figueiredo-Pereira, “Aging and Regulated Protein Degradation: Who Has the Upper Hand?” Aging Cell 6, 599–606 (2007).

2. P. Talalay, et al., “Sulforaphane Mobilizes Cellular Defenses That Protect Skin Against Damage by UV Radiation,” Proc. Natl Acad. Sci. USA 104, 17500–17505 (2007).

3, R. Roskoski, “Signaling by Kit Protein-Tyrosine Kinase: The Stem Cell Factor Receptor,” Biochem. Biophys. Res. Commun. 337, 1–13 (2005).

4. G.E. Costin and V.J. Hearing, “Human Skin Pigmentation: Melanocytes Modulate Skin Color in Response to Stress,” FASEB J. 21, 976–994 (2007).

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23 autumn 2010

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24 autumn 2010

Contract Services

outsourcing

is rapidly

developing into

one of the largest

business service

provision entities in the world.

Historically, outsourcing brands

or services had been seen as

a way to simply cut costs; now,

however, the business model is

changing and contract service

providers can deliver so much

more. Companies now outsource

both specialized and day-to-

day business functions, and cost

savings are not always the focus.

It’s more about how they invest

and profitably grow the business

for the future? These aspirations

can be achieved by bringing in

a proven external professional

resource with the capability to

support your internal commercial

teams. This gives you access to

• knowledge

• intellectual property

• added value

• technology

• expertise

• high quality human resources.

Whatever the size of the company,

outsourcing can create significant

value for your business.

whaT is oUTsoUrcing? Outsourcing is when a company

chooses to use an outside

agency/business to provide

or deliver a service that could

be — or has historically been —

managed internally. The benefits

of outsourcing range from having

access to superior service,

creativity, capability, strategic

focus, new business or a territory

and, in some cases, cost savings.

Typical examples of outsourced

services are the use of advertising

agencies, call centres, sales

support, telesales, HR, training,

IT support, logistics and other

bespoke service providers.

why oUTsoUrce? All CEOs are faced with the

challenge of delivering ongoing

sustainable profits, appeasing

shareholders and meeting

increased industry/trade margins

whilst continuing to invest in

growth. Outsourcing can provide

businesses with cost-effective

solutions to reduce internal

headcounts, allow them to

integrate outsourcing expertise

to drive growth or expand their

business into new markets without

necessarily setting up a high-cost

infrastructure. Utilizing outsourced

services enables them to invest

strategically. Clearly, outsourcing

can deliver a number of selective

options to drive profitable growth,

which adds significant value to an

organization.

Brand fosTering: The new phenoMenon!Health and beauty manufacturers

around the world are

consolidating through mergers

and acquisitions, creating huge

global organizations with large

brand portfolios. This M&A activity

effecTive oUTsoUrcing for BeTTer BUsinessPeter Burrows of Ceuta Healthcare discusses the phenomenon of outsourcing brands and explains how it can deliver cost-effective growth for your business.

252010 autumn

creates global powerhouses

that own “mega-brands,”

which receive the majority of

the companies’ focus, energy

and investment … and rightly

so! This does, however, create a

dichotomy for the newly formed

organizations as they wrestle with

the challenge of how to maximize

the value and growth potential

of the smaller brands within the

enlarged portfolio. Many of the

smaller brands (of which some

may be significant players in

specific local markets) are not

deemed worthy of any significant

investment by the corporation.

Often, these brands become

neglected — through loss of

investment and focus — leading

to brand equity erosion and the

potential death of a once loved

and trusted icon.

Larger corporations have

the option to sell smaller brands

and generate funds to invest in

their mega-brands, but this does

have some drawbacks. First, in

a portfolio there are often ‘cash

cows’ that support the investment

levels on core brands. If cash

cows are sold, the future profits

they would have generated to

invest in the core brands are lost

… and you can only sell a brand

once! Secondly, selling brands

that are strong in a specific

geography can weaken a local

affiliate’s ability to compete in that

territory. Last but not least, selling

brands (often to competitors)

can result in a more aggressive

competitive environment as the

sold brand begins to compete

for retailer shelf space and

market share as it benefits from a

more defined focus and media

investment. To overcome these

complex portfolio issues, many

organizations are choosing to

outsource or “foster out” non-

core brands to third party sales

and marketing partners. The third

party partner sees the brand as

being big and important to their

business and therefore delivers

the focus and attention required

to maximize the potential of the

brand. Of course, selecting the

right partner with a proven track

record is key to success.

Third parTy paraMeTersThe boards of many large

corporations consider

“outsourcing” to be a leading

strategic imperative for their

immediate or future strategies;

they’re not just focused on saving

money, they want to know how

to cost-effectively grow their

business. It is also worth noting

that businesses choosing to

outsource brands are becoming

very selective in appointing

the right outsourcing partner/

company. They see the chosen

partner as an integral, strategic,

trusted and tactical part of their

business, which necessitates a

parallel alignment on both sides

regarding work ethics, culture,

leadership and vision. To achieve

and maintain the high standards

required of a professional,

sustainable outsourcing partner,

service providers must be able to

fulfil the disciplines and support

functions within the following

framework to ensure best practice:

• proven track record of success

in managing and developing

brands

• solutions provider

• excellent trade channel

coverage

• industry and trade respectability

• positive trade relationships

• highly skilled workforce in key

disciplines

• training support and career

guidance for personnel

• HR department: good people

support and development

• solid back office support and

well staffed infrastructure

• corporate social governance

• environmental best practice

• full service providers

• supportive intellectual property

• open minded to new business

models and ideas.

Companies are seeking

affordable commercial cost

options that also offer significant

value creation for their brands,

business plans and strategies. They

also recognize that the cheapest

options are often, if not always,

false economies.

shoUld yoU oUTsoUrce?Outsourcing brands or activities

can create untapped value for

many types of organizations.

Below is a list of the types of

companies that should consider

outsourcing as an alternative to

traditional strategies:

• companies with too many

brands

• companies that have complex

portfolio management issues

and large tails

• companies with defined core

investment/focus brands but

large tails

• companies considering

divesting brands with latent,

significant growth potential

• Rx companies with OTC

switch candidates but no OTC

capability or infrastructure

• companies looking to enter

new markets or specialty trade

channels with no desire to carry

the infrastructure costs

• smaller companies with great

local brands that could travel to

new geographies

• innovation companies with

great new ideas but no

commercialization experience

• companies needing to

exit a market because of

unsustainable losses that are

incorporated through local

market overheads such as

buildings, people, utility costs

and taxation.

Before divesting a brand or

consigning it to the ‘non-

investment’ category of a

slow, often painful death,

manufacturers should at least

explore the benefits of fostering

out the management of the

brand or project to someone

who can deliver the focus and

“TLC” required to maximize the

value of the asset and any growth

potential.

BenefiTs of oUTsoUrcingThere is a well known saying

that a business or brand without

direction or focus will simply drive

itself downhill. With the right third

party partner on board, however,

you would expect to

• halt the decline of an unfocused

brand

• re-engineer a brand to realize

untapped potential

• increase brand equity and

value

• allow internal departments to

focus on core strategic activities

• access new and untapped

territories or trade channels

• achieve optimal returns from

smart portfolio management.

sUMMary Whether you are a large company

with complex portfolio choices

or a smaller innovation company

looking to commercialize a unique

product, outsourcing can deliver

cost-effective and significant

benefits to your business. We at

Ceuta Healthcare have a proven

track record of re-engineering

established brands to maximize

potential and finding innovative

solutions. If nothing else, you should

at least explore the commercial

option before deciding on your

chosen strategy. phM

for More inforMaTionPeter Burrows Director of International Business Development, Health and BeautyThe Ceuta Healthcare GroupCeuta Healthcare LtdHill House, 41 Richmond HillBournemouth BH2 6HS, UK.Tel. +44 1202 780 558peter.burrows@ceutahealthcare.comwww.ceutahealthcare.com

Outsourcing can deliver a number of selective options to drive profitable growth, which adds significant value to an organization.

Formulation

26 autumn 2010

To exert their activity,

active ingredients

should be delivered

in the right chemical

form to the right

site of action at the right

concentration and within the

right period of time (Morganti et

al., 2001; Wiechers, 2007). Actives

are normally dispersed within a

carrier vehicle, which plays an

important role in topical delivery

(Buchmann, 2006). In addition to

being responsible for the effective

delivery of active compounds,

vehicles should also provide

aesthetic acceptability and

fulfil the requirements of safety

and physical stability. Owing

to specific physicochemical

properties (such as low

solubility, chemical instability,

intense colour or sensitivity to

oxidation), the incorporation

of some actives may not lead

to an effective or aesthetically

acceptable product. One of the

most elegant ways to improve

the performance of actives in

cosmetic formulations is the use

of delivery systems. A cosmetic

delivery system is broadly defined

as a way of carrying an active

ingredient to the site of action

(mostly skin). In most cases, the

active is first incorporated into

a carrier, such as a micro- or

nanoparticle, after which the

loaded carrier is dispersed within

a vehicle (a cream or gel). The

delivery system should present

an active molecule to the skin in

a way that allows its appropriate

release to the target site

(Morganti et al., 2001).

The cosmetic industry is

driven by innovation and the

continuous development of

new technologies to introduce

effective and desirable products

into the market. Encapsulation

is one of the most frequently

used technologies in cosmetic

delivery systems, whereby a

protective shell is used to surround

an active ingredient. Successful

encapsulation should provide

chemical stability for the active

by shielding it from environmental

factors (oxygen, pH). It could

also mask an unpleasant

colour or odour, improve the

physiochemical properties of

actives without altering their

chemical nature or biological

activity, and enhance the

permeation of the active from

the vehicle to the site of action.

The cosmetic industry was one

of the first industries to employ

nanotechnology. Nanoparticles

are expected to bring solutions

to the problems experienced

with existing encapsulation

techniques, such as leaking of the

active ingredient, limited shelf-life,

encapsulation efficiency and

release properties.

colloidal delivery sysTeMsNanoparticulate colloidal

delivery systems can be

described as molecular and/

or molecular assembly systems

in which an active principle

is dissolved, entrapped,

encapsulated or even adsorbed

or attached to the external

interface (Anton et al., 2007).

A considerable number of

nanoparticle generation

methods are based on

nanoemulsion templates.

Nanoemulsions are nano-sized

emulsions, typically exhibiting

diameters of up to 500 nm. The

nanocapsUlaTions in cosMeTic prodUcTsan answer To yoUr forMUlaTion proBleMs?Nowadays, we hear more and more about nanocapsulation. Sometimes it’s about how wonderful

it is and, at the same time, about the controversy surrounding its safety. In this series of articles, I

aim to provide an extensive review of the latest research in cosmetic nanocapsulation, looking

at what nanocapsules are, different types of nanocapsules and their production methods, the

controversy issue surrounding nanocapsule safety and, finally, their efficacy as a novel delivery

system for cosmetic products.

A Nanoparticle Tracking Analysis image of purified vitamin E-loaded lipid nanocarriers.

272010 autumn

characteristic of nanoemulsions

that makes them prime

candidates for nanoparticle

engineering is their high stability.

They possess kinetic stability

that lasts for months, stability

against dilution and, often,

stability against temperature

changes. The small droplet

size of nanoemulsions stabilizes

them against sedimentation (or

creaming) because the Brownian

motion and, consequently, the

diffusion rate is higher than the

sedimentation (or creaming) rate

induced by the force of gravity.

The main cause of nanoemulsion

destabilization is Ostwald ripening

or molecular diffusion. The rate

of Ostwald ripening can be

reduced by several orders of

magnitude by adding additives

(cosurfactants, polymers) that

have substantially lower solubility

in the continuous phase than

in the main component of the

droplet. This reduction in ripening

rate leads to the stabilization of

nanoemulsions (Taylor & Ottewill,

1994); however, nanocapsules

produced from a nanoemulsion

template are several orders of

magnitude more stable.

There are two principal

methods for the generation

of nanoemulsion templates:

high-energy methods (such

as sonication and high shear

homogenization) and low-

energy methods (such as

spontaneous emulsification and

the phase inversion temperature

method) (Anton, Benoit and

Saulnier, 2008). High-energy

methods use strong shear forces

to create large interfacial areas.

The formation of nanoscale

droplets by this method is

affected by controllable

formulation parameters, such

as the energy input, the amount

of surfactant and the nature of

the components. Conversely,

with low-energy methods, the

formation of nanoemulsion

droplets is governed by the

intrinsic physicochemical

properties and behaviour of

the systems (Anton et al, 2007).

The choice of the method

can directly influence the

morphology of the nanoparticles

and, consequently, the route

of the administration and the

choice of encapsulated actives.

The morphology and structure

of nanoparticles are directly

related to their biocompatibility

and physiological/

pharmacological efficacy.

A nanoparticulate colloidal

delivery system can comprise

either polymers or lipid

materials. Polymers used to

make a nanoparticulate

system can be synthetic or

natural macromolecules, such

as chitosan, polysaccharides,

alginate or gelatin, thus

increasing their biocompatibility

and reducing their toxicity. Lipid-

based nanoparticles, because

of their safety profiles, have

attracted more attention in the

cosmetics industry. Lipid-based

nanoparticles can be classified

as solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs)

and lipid nanocapsules (LNCs)

— also known as nanocarriers.

Both types have shown excellent

safety profiles because they are

based on physiological lipids and

do not contain organic solvents.

solid lipid nanoparTiclesSolid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs)

are commonly defined as

nanospheres or nanoscaled

lipid matrices; they are solid

at physiological temperatures

and stabilized by surfactants

(Muller and Dingler, 1998; Muller,

Mader and Gohla, 2000). One

of the most commonly used

high-energy methods for SLN

production is high-pressure

homogenization (HPH) or

sonication. This method typically

includes the following steps:

• heating the lipid phase (plus

potentially solubilized active) at

5–10 °C above its melting point

• premixing it in an aqueous

surfactant solution at the same

temperature

• nano-emulsifying the pre-

emulsion using an HPH method

(Muller and Dingler, 1998; Muller

and Lucks, 1997) or sonication

method (Schwarz, Mehnert &

Luck, 2004; Seki et al., 2004

• cooling it down to room

temperature to crystallize the

lipids.

For the encapsulation of

thermosensitive actives, an

alternative method — known

as the cold homogenization

technique — was proposed by

Muller, Madar and Gohla (2000).

However, when the purpose of

the experiment is to encapsulate

fragile molecules, such as

peptides, proteins or actives

sensitive to oxidation, high-energy

methods may result in the loss

of activity during processing. In

the case of industrial scale-up, it

is also important to consider the

energetic yield, which is many

times greater in high-energy

methods (Tadros et al., 2004)

Low-energy SLN production

methods are based on the

Successful encapsulation should provide chemical stability for the active by shielding it from environmental factors.

28 autumn 2010

Formulation

references1. N. Anton, et al., “Nanoemulsions and Nanocapsules by the PIT Method: An

Investigation on the Role of the Temperature Cycling on the Emulsion Phase Inversion,” International Journal of Pharmaceutics 344, 44–52 (2007).

2. N. Anton, J. Benoit and P. Saulnier, “Design and Production of Nanoparticles Formulated from Nanoemulsion Templates — A Review,” Journal of Controlled Release 128, 185–199 (2008).

3. L. Boltri, et al., “Lipid Nanoparticles: Evaluation of Some Critical Formulation Parameters,” Proc. International Symposium Controlled Release Bioactives Materials 20, 346–347 (1993).

4. H. Bunjes and M.H. Koch, “Crystallization Tendency and Polymorphic Transitions in Triglyceride Nanoparticles,” International Journal of Pharmaceutics 29, 159–173 (1996).

5. S. Buchmann, “Main Cosmetic Vehicles,” in M. Paye, A. Barel and H.I. Maibach (Eds.), Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology (CRS Press, London, UK, 2006) pp 99–113.

6. M.R. Gasco, “Solid Lipid Nanospheres from Warm Microemulsions,” Pharmaceutical Technology Europe 9, 32–42 (1997).

7. B. Heurtault, et al., “A Novel Phase Inversion-Based Process for the Preparation of Lipid Nanocarriers,” Pharmaceutical Research 19(6), 875–880 (2002).

8. B. Heurtault, et al., “Interfacial Stability of Lipid Nanocapsules,” Colloids and Surfaces B: Biointerfaces 30(3), 225–235 (2003).

9. M. Moddaresi, S.A. Tamburic and M.B. Brown, “Vitamin E Nanoparticles for Dermal Applications,” Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmacology 58(10), A13–A14 (2006).

10. M. Moddaresi, et al., “The Influence of Particle Transport on the Topical Delivery of Tochopheryl Acetate-Loaded Solid Lipid Nanocarriers,” submitted to International Journal of Pharmaceutics.

11. M. Moddaresi, et al., “Tocopheryl Acetate Disposition in Porcine and Human Skin When Administered Using Lipid Nanocarriers,” Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmacology 62, 762–769 (2010).

12. P. Morganti, et al., “Percutaneous Absorption and Delivery Systems,” Clinics in Dermatology 19, 489–501 (2001).

13. R.H. Müller and A. Dingler, “The Next Generation After the Liposomes: Solid Lipid Nanoparticles (SLN, Lipopearls) as Dermal Carriers in Cosmetics,” Eurocosmetics 7/8, 19–26 (1998).

14. R. Muller and J.S. Lucks, “Arzneistoffträger aus Festen Lipidteilchen — Feste Lipid Nanosphären (SLN),” German Patent Application P4131562.6 (1997).

15. R.H. Müller, K. Mader and S. Gohla, “Solid Lipid Nanoparticles (SLN) for Controlled Drug Delivery: A Review of the State of the Art,” European Journal of Pharmacy and Biopharmacy 50(1), 161–177 (2000).

16. C. Schwarz, et al., “Solid Lipid Nanoparticles (SLN) for Controlled Drug Delivery. Part 1. Production, Characterization and Sterilization,” Journal of Controlled Release 30(4), 83–96 (2004).

17. J. Seki, et al., “A Nanometer Lipid Emulsion, Lipid Nanosphere (lns), as a Parenteral Drug Carrier for Passive Drug Targeting,” International Journal of Pharmaceutics 273, 75–83 (2004).

18. T. Tadros, “Application of Rheology for Assessment and Prediction of the Long-Term Physical Stability of Emulsions,” Advanced Colloid International Science 108, 227–258 (2004).

19. P. Taylor and R.H. Ottewill, “Ostwald Ripening in O/W Miniemulsions Formed by the Dilution of O/W Microemulsions,” Trends in Colloid and Interface Science 9, 199–203 (1994).

20. J.W. Wiechers, “Influence of Formulation Design on the Clinical Performance of Topically Applied Formulation,” in A. Kenneth, A. Walters and M.S. Roberts (Eds.), Dermatologic, Cosmeceutic and Cosmetic Development, First Edition (CRC Press, London, UK, 2007) p 355.

for More inforMaTionDr Mojgan Moddaresi graduated as a Doctor of Pharmacy in 1998; gaining experience as a PharmD in the pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical industries, she started her PhD in 2004. She was the first person to be awarded the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in Cosmetic Science in the UK. She currently works in the cosmetics industry as a consultant and advises on innovative approaches to designing cosmetics products. For further information, please contact m.moddaresi@gmail.com.

formation of microemulsions

and subsequent water dilution,

which induces cooling of the

system and lipid nanoparticle

precipitation (Gasco, 1997). To

form a microemulsion, lipids

(fatty acids and/or glycerides)

are melted; a mixture of water,

cosurfactant(s) and the surfactant

is heated to the same temperature

as the lipid and added under

mild stirring to the lipid melt. A

transparent, thermodynamically

stable system is formed when

the compounds are mixed in the

correct ratio. This microemulsion is

then dispersed in a cold aqueous

medium under mild mechanical

mixing, thus ensuring that the

small size of the particles is a

result of the precipitation and is

not mechanically induced by

the stirring process (Gasco, 1997;

Boltri et al., 1993). This method

not only requires the use of

surfactants and cosurfactants

(such as lecithin), but also

alcohols (butanol, for example);

the presence of the latter is not

desirable in dermal delivery. SLNs

have the disadvantage of low

encapsulation efficiency. The

particle matrix tends to form a

relatively perfect crystal lattice,

leaving only a limited space to

accommodate the active. This

limits the loading capacity and

can lead to the expulsion of active

from the lipid matrix during storage

(Bunjes and Koch, 1996). There is

also a problem of the presence

of a mixture of micro- and

nanoparticles in final products,

as well as organic solvents, when

SLNs are obtained by low-energy

methods. It looks like the new

generation of nanoparticles —

lipid nanocapsules/nanocarriers

(LNCs) — could be the ideal

model for the encapsulation of

highly sensitive actives (Moddaresi

et al., 2006).

lipid nanocapsUlesLNCs are colloidal entities that

exhibit a core-shell structure.

The core is mainly composed

of liquid oil, which acts as a

reservoir for the active, and is

surrounded by an amorphous

surfactant shell. The advantages

of LNCs compared with SLNs are

higher encapsulation efficiencies

because of the optimized active

solubility in the nanoparticle

core, better protection of the

active against degradation

and lower tissue irritation (a

less pronounced burst effect

on active release). LNCs were

first introduced by Heurtault

et al. (2002). The authors used

a low-energy method for LNC

production, a combination of

the phase inversion temperature

(PIT) method and controlled

temperature cycling. The LNC

in question was formed from

biocompatible lipid ingredients

(medium-chain triglycerides),

an ethoxylated non-ionic

surfactant (polyoxyethylene-

660-12-hydroxy stearate) and a

phospholipid surfactant lecithin

(Heurtault et al., 2003). LNC

stability was attributed to their

surface cohesion related to a

surfactant shell. The PIT method

used is particularly interesting

as it is an organic, solvent-free

and low-energy method. These

specifications are potentially

the most suitable for cosmetic

applications. In addition, the

method is relatively simple and

allows easy industrial scale-up.

An overview of nano-related

cosmetic products, including lipid

nanoparticles introduced to the

market between 2005 and 2007

for brands such as Dr. Rimpler,

Isabelle Lancray and Beate

Johnen, was published by Muller

et al. (2007). However, employing

lipid nanocarriers in cosmetic

products is still in its research

phase (Moddaresi et al., 2009;

Moddaresi et al, 2010). In the

next article, an extensive review

of how lipid nanoparticulate

systems can increase the

efficacy of cosmetics products

will be discussed. phM

292010 autumnwww.lipotec.com

Lipotec, the genuine alliance against expression wrinklesOn the forefront of anti-aging technology, Lipotec is committed pioneer in successfully

offering solutions to attenuate expression lines through an innovative range of

combinable molecular actives that, by independent mechanisms, safely target the

muscle contraction.

30 autumn 2010

Technology

BUgs, planTs and BUsinessPHM’s Editorial Director, Dr Kevin Robinson, reviews some of the recent developments in the less

glamorous part of the personal care industry.

genes-To-Proteins

Technology

SA (GTP), a

contract research

organization

that specializes in protein

engineering, now offers significant

improvements in continuous

fermentation processes with

Lactococcus lactis, a promising

gene expression host. The

improvements to the host deliver

a number of benefits for biologic,

diagnostic and cosmetic

applications. The company,

which has now completed more

than 800 projects for customers

in the life sciences industries, has

introduced induced expression

enhancements and developed

a constitutive promoter for

continuous fermentation processes

in L. lactis. In so doing, it has

overcome most of the difficulty

of balancing translation and

secretion. The inducible promoters

used with L. lactis provide gene

expression control, but also come

with some disadvantages, such as

overloading the secretion system,

an unstable host and having to

deal with the inducer itself. The

new constitutive inducers from GTP

are more stable, which is essential

for process optimization and

continuous fermentation. GTP’s

innovation, originally developed

in conjunction with academia,

covers novel DNA sequences that

function as promoters, expression

vectors and transformed host cells.

The invention also allows the use of

these promoters for the production

of heterologous proteins, such as

therapeutic or vaccine-related

proteins. The company has filed

patents covering the technology

and has an ongoing innovation

programme; amongst its current

projects is an investigation into

promising approaches to biomass

increase with an industrial partner.

For more information, visit www.

gtptech.com.1

Staying on a micro-theme,

and keeping the upcoming

in-cosmetics Asia in mind, Dow

Microbial Control customers in

the Southeast Asia, Australia

and New Zealand region now

have improved access to global

technical expertise and R&D

tools following the recent launch

of the Dow Microbial Control

Academy in Singapore. The

academy is a multipurpose

educational institution focused on

the transmission, expansion and

application of microbial control

knowledge. Vipul Shah, President

for Southeast Asia and India/

Pakistan of The Dow Chemical

Company, along with Mark

Henning, Dow Microbial Control

Global General Manager, were on-

site to mark the occasion and share

information on R&D with more than

90 customers from a spectrum of

industries. Celso Magri, Global

Marketing Manager, conducted

a seminar on new concepts in

microbial control, highlighting

Dow Microbial Control’s focus on

responsible innovation.

“Every customer has a microbial

control challenge that requires

a unique solution,” said Mark

Henning. “The central mission of

the academy is to teach, lead

and research microbial control

science and technology for the

betterment of customers, markets

and applications worldwide,

and the Singapore Academy

will deliver on our commitment

to provide that expertise locally

in the Southeast Asia, Australia

and New Zealand region.” The

academy is designed to provide

Dow Microbial Control customers

in the region with easy and

continuous access to educational

opportunities, regulatory support,

technical expertise and R&D tools

through both online platforms

and customized training sessions.

This enables customers to be

constantly informed on regional

best practices that will benefit

30 autumn 2010

their businesses. Besides providing

extensive resources, such as

training sessions and research

updates, Dow Microbial Control

offers its customers science and

technology expertise through

its Customer Application Center

based in Singapore (www.

DowMicrobialControl.com).

BUild, BUy and growSince the summer issue of PHM

went to press, Cognis opened its

new state-of-the-art production

facility for alkyl polyglucoside

(APG) surfactants in Jinshan,

China. The company also signed

the Responsible Care Charter

there. Along with its other

two production sites for APG

surfactants in Düsseldorf, Germany

and Cincinnati, USA, the Jinshan

facility will enable Cognis to better

serve the increasing demand for

green solutions in the Asia-Pacific

region. Richard Ridinger, Executive

Vice President Care Chemicals,

commented: “The new facility in

China complements our existing

plants in Germany and the US, and

improves the global availability of

our high-quality APG surfactants;

this is a real investment in the

company’s future. And, by signing

the Responsible Care Charter,

we the aim to further improve

safety, health and environmental

performance. The Cognis

Responsible Care team in Greater

China will soon start co-ordinating

self-assessment processes within

the affiliate and integrating the

principles of responsible care into

its standards and procedures.”

By opening its new APG

facility in Jinshan, China, Cognis

is responding to the increasing

environmental awareness and

consumer demand for high-

performance products in the

Asia-Pacific region. Added Young-

Yull Kim, Vice President, Care

Chemicals, Sales and Marketing,

Asia-Pacific: “We closely follow

the market development in

Asia-Pacific and with the new

facility in China, we can serve our

regional customers even better.

To demonstrate product benefits

and support our customers’

application technologies, we will

also be establishing technical

service facilities in Jinshan.”

Cognis’ APG surfactants are

safe, combine mildness and

environmental compatibility while

also offering high performance.

As such, they are a preferred

ingredient for many customers in

bath and shower gels, household

cleaners, dishwashing and

laundry detergents and can be

widely applied in agrochemical

formulations (www.cognis.com).

Also in expansive mode, IMA

(www.ima.it) and FORUM SpA

recently signed an investment

agreement for IMA to buy a

majority stake in GIMA SpA, a

packaging company based near

Bologna, Italy, which operates

prevalently in food, beverage

and the personal care markets.

In addition to the general crisis of

recent years, GIMA SpA has been

experiencing specific problems of

its own, having to refocus on new

products that led to a precarious

economic and financial situation.

However, the company is now

showing considerable growth

prospects with a fast-growing

order book and a number of very

interesting projects currently being

implemented. IMA is to invest a

total of around €7.0 million and

would then acquire a 65% stake

of the share capital. The current

single partner would remain

in the company as a minority

shareholder. Commenting on the

agreement, Alberto Vacchi, IMA’s

Chairman and Managing Director,

said: “Considering our strong

interest in certain projects that are

being developed by GIMA, this

agreement with FORUM will allow

us to expand IMA’s presence in

certain niche markets. We are also

very pleased that, by becoming

one of GIMA’s shareholders,

we will be able to relaunch a

historical brand, not to mention an

innovative company with strong

roots in our area, saving as many

jobs as possible at a very critical

time for the economy. We are

confident that the banking system

and GIMA’s traditional suppliers

will accept FORUM’s plan to save

the company, trusting in IMA’s

ability to develop GIMA’s business

and achieve the objectives set by

its management. In this regard,

we are of the opinion that once

unprofitable projects have been

discarded and non-recurring

charges have been eliminated,

we will be able to significantly

increase revenues and achieve a

high level of profitability.”

The reTUrn of innovaTionAdvanced R&D, expansion

and merger and acquisition

activity have got to be good

news for the industry. And, as

the economic pressure eases,

innovation appears to be back

as well, playing an important role

in ingredient buying decisions

and allowing suppliers to develop

their portfolios. According to

a recent Kline report, price

was the key motivation behind

purchasing decisions during the

economic downturn, creating a

challenging situation for personal

care ingredients suppliers. Now,

although price sensitivity is still an

issue, it is lessening — depending

on which channel the customer

is active in. In an interview with

CosmeticsDesign-Europe.com,

Kline Analyst Anna Ibbotson

commented: “After a difficult

period when price was the key

purchasing criterion, the return

of innovation as a key buying

factor for formulators will create

an opportunity for suppliers to

develop more added value …

and take market shares from

established products.”

According to the report,

the European personal care

ingredients market is valued at

$1.74 billion, with annual volume

growth expected to stand at

2.6% until 2014. Owing to the

relative resilience of the personal

care and cosmetics sectors, the

market has outperformed most

other end-use industries in which

the specialty chemicals industry

is active, and is expected to

recover quickly. Indeed, leading

ingredients categories within

the market comprise specialty

surfactants, conditioning

polymers and emollients, but

UV absorbers and so-called

green — naturally derived,

biodegradable, petrochemical-

free and environmentally safe

— ingredients are expected to

grow rapidly in the future. “A

combination of companies offer

greener ingredients from Cognis

and Croda to smaller players,

which are more focused on a

natural ingredient portfolio,”

added Ibbotson. UV absorbers

are expected to benefit from

consumer demand for UV

protective qualities in many

skincare products outside of the

more traditional sun care ranges.

Kline’s report also noted the

increasing convergence of the

personal care ingredients industry,

with mergers and acquisitions

decreasing the number of

players active in the market. A

notable acquisition in the sector

that confirms this trend was the

recent purchase of Cognis by

BASF in June. According to Kline,

this convergence is an attempt

by suppliers to become a one-

stop-shop for ingredients and

to be present in most market

segments. However, the effect

that this will have on the health

of the personal care ingredients

industry is not clear. “It is too

early to say what the impact

will be on the market,” Ibbotson

said. The recession may well be

on the decline, but the road to

recovery could still be a little

rocky, especially with the big

players looking for non-organic

expansion. SMEs beware! phM

for More inforMaTionDr Kevin Robinson is the Editorial Director of Pure Health Magazine and can be reached at kevin@via-medialtd.com.

reference1. N. Trémillon, et al.,

“Production and Purification of Staphylococcal Nuclease in Lactococcus lactis Using a New Expression-Secretion System and a pH-Regulated Mini-Reactor,” Microbial Cell Factories 9, 37–49 (2010): www.microbialcellfactories.com/content/9/1/37.

312010 autumn

Colours and Fragrances

Managing coloUr in The cosMeTics indUsTry:The BenefiTs of conTacTless MeasUreMenT

a wide varieTy of coMpoUndsAs such, a meaningful colour

management strategy relies on a

technology that is tailored to the

nature of the measured products

and the type of information that

needs to be researched. In the

case of cosmetics, key criteria are

colour, appearance, brilliance

and effects. Additionally, the

measuring technology must

consistently adapt to the

diversity of products involved.

In the cosmetics industry, the

wide variety of compounds and

products rendered it difficult —

until recently — to make accurate

and consistent measurements.

Lipstick is a good example

of the complexity of colour

measurement in this industry. It is

a product that is often opaque

in mass but can be transparent,

translucid or opaque after

application. It is coloured by

pigments or colourings, with a

high degree of brilliance, using

traditional colouring substances

or pigments with effects (when

the colour variation depends

on the angle of observation).

Verifying the appearance

of this type of product

is complex, for the

simple reason that

brilliance and

texture are difficult

to measure. Also,

the state in which

the product’s

colour characteristics should

be measured must be agreed.

Traditionally, colour control can

be performed in three different

ways, representing the three

typical states of a lipstick product:

• the mass colour (the colour of

the raw material) corresponds to

the colour of the product without

the influence of brilliance.

• the grape colour (the colour

of the lipstick in its shell)

corresponds to the in-store

displayed product. It is often

considered to be the most

important state, as it defines the

visual aspect of the product

during purchasing.

• The colour after application

corresponds to the aspect

of the colour once it’s been

applied to the lips, and

therefore during use.

In a similar way, a powder’s

colour may be measured in

different states, such as the colour

of the free powder, the colour

of the compacted powder

and the colour on application,

corresponding to the powder

applied to a carrier medium.

Foundation creams, nail varnishes

and pencils also have different

states in which their colour may

be measured … and this typically

causes the same issues.

persisTence of visUal coloUr evalUaTion In recent years, the absence of

measurement devices capable

of taking all these considerations

into account has inhibited

cosmetics professionals from

developing truly industrial colour

management strategies. “Almost

95% of our industry still relies on

a visual appreciation of a given

product’s colour, by comparing it

with an existing stock of validated

products,” says Philippe Spay, the

founder of Newtone, a French

consultancy firm specialized in

colour strategies for the cosmetics

industry. As a result, production

processes can still be improved.

“In the cosmetics industry, as

part of their production process,

manufacturers often have to

produce seven or eight samples

before getting a colour right,”

adds Spay. “In the paint and

plastic industries, where colour

management solutions are well

established, an average of 1.8

samples is enough to obtain a

given colour and start volume

production.” Philippe is keen

to emphasize that, owing to

the complexity and variety of

cosmetic products, it is unlikely

that such a low figure will

be obtained any time soon.

However, there is still considerable

room for improvement on the

current figures.

The conTacTless BreakThroUgh

Things have taken a new

turn, however, with the

recent introduction of

a new category of

measuring devices,

offering what

the cosmetics

industry really

needs:

contactless

measures.

During the past 20 years, colour management has become a prime focus in a growing number of

industries. From printing to textiles, from chemicals to automobiles, accurate colour management

processes are in place and the corresponding measurement instruments now have a high level of

penetration in these markets. This is not the case, however, in the cosmetics industry. Even today,

measuring, controlling and formulating the appearance of cosmetic products remains a real

industrial challenge and a genuine concern. The reason for this lies in the products’ appearance

and colour characteristics. Make-up is a highly complex compound, and its colour is somewhat

more difficult to measure than textiles or paints.

32 autumn 2010

332010 autumn

“Measuring colour samples with

a spectrophotometer is not a

new concept in the cosmetics

industry,” says Spay. “In fact,

many leading companies

have been using such tools,

to a degree, for a number of

years. But the fact that these

systems typically involve direct

contact with the product is a

major issue.” Indeed, cosmetic

products range in material type

from powders to pastes, all of

which are difficult to measure

with traditional contact-based

instruments. Sample presentation

methods such as glassware

often distort the appearance

of the material. And, the actual

three dimensional volume of

a cosmetic product makes it

substantially more difficult to

analyse than a paint product

that can be evenly spread on a

flat surface and left to dry.

Contactless colour measuring

has now become a reality, with

the introduction of products

such as X-Rite’s VS450 unit. The

result of 4 years of research,

users are now able to capture a

colour sample without contact,

making it possible to measure

foundation creams, nail varnishes,

powders, lipsticks, monochromes

and other pasty or mass care

products directly, without the

surface distortion associated with

traditional spectrophotometers.

Practical examples include

measuring a spoon filled with a

product and levelled of with a

spatula, measuring foundation

cream when applied to a model’s

arm or measuring lipstick directly

applied to human lips.

lifTing The coloUr MeasUreMenT BoTTleneckContactless measurement is the

key that will unlock a number

of the issues that are holding

back colour management

strategies on an industrial scale

in the cosmetics sector. And the

measurement device is only the

first element of the colour value

chain. A close second is colour

formulation software, which

effectively helps to maintain

colour consistency throughout

the production cycle. If the

measuring device is the eye,

the formulation software is the

brain. Colour software is used

to characterize all the materials

that are part of a cosmetic

product’s composition. By

measuring a given product and

passing the colour values down

to the formulation software,

it is possible to accurately

determine the required

amount of each component

to get the expected result …

with limited trial and error.

Obtaining the right colour for

a product in a predictable

way is a valuable asset in the

production environment. It helps

to save on raw material usage,

by limiting waste, and ensures

that production equipment is

used at maximum efficiency, by

eliminating downtime.

Colour compliance is also a

major area of interest. Coupled

with the right formulation

software, a measuring device

such as the VS450 is a useful

tool to check a product’s

compliance with a given colour

reference. “Compliance with a

colour reference is measured in

Delta E-2000,” explains Reinhard

Feld, X-Rite’s EMEA Product

Manager for the industrial

business unit. “The cosmetics

industry typically has a tolerance

of 1.5 ∆E-2000 in production.

Contact spectrophotometers

have an average predictability

of 2 ∆E-2000, owing to

inaccuracies in preparing and

presenting the product sample.

This makes them virtually useless

as a measuring tool in the

cosmetics industry.” By contrast,

contactless devices such as

the VS450 offer a measurement

accuracy of 0.5 ∆E-2000. This

makes the colour measure

reliable and effectively usable

in production. The advent of

a trustworthy electronic eye is

a true milestone that will help

the cosmetics sector to catch

up with the other industries and

finally reap the full benefit of a

modern-day colour value chain.

What took many years in printing

and textiles could come a lot

faster in cosmetics, owing to the

technical expertise acquired

across the board of colour

measurement and analysis. phM

for More inforMaTionReinhard FeldEMEA Product ManagerX-Rite4300 44th St. SE Grand Rapids, Michigan 49512, USA. Tel. +1 800 248 9748 info@xrite.comwww.xrite.com

34 autumn 2010

Last Word

BaoBaB oil a Miracle of naTUre

for More inforMaTionSandra WulfCremer Oleo GmbH & Co. KGGlockengiesserwall 3D-20095 Hamburg, Germany.Tel. +49 4032 0110S.Wulf@cremer-gruppe.com

The baobab tree

(Adansonia

digitata) has

captivated

people since

time immemorial; in its native

African savannah, it can quite

easily live to be 500 years old,

reach a height of 20 m and

achieve a trunk diameter of

12 m. Locals call it the magic

tree, the chemist’s tree and the

tree of life, designations that

show just how important it is for

life in the challenging African

environment. Almost every part

of the plant and its fruit have

been used, for generations,

for a variety of applications.

For example, both humans

and animals enjoy “tapping”

the enormous water reservoir

inside the trunk to supplement

their fluid requirements during

periods of drought. The fruit, by

contrast, is naturally dry when

ripe and contains much less

water (8–9%) when harvested.

The seeds, bark, leaves and

shoots all provide a number of

unique active ingredients and,

as such, are used in a wide

range of foodstuffs, traditional

medicines and cosmetics.

creMer care and BaoBaBOur partner, Baobab Fruit

Company Senegal, started

collecting fruit in one of the

driest regions of Senegal as

long ago as 1999. Because

of this, and the subsequent

processing of the produce

in the Senegalese town of

Thiès, the local population

acquired an important, fair and

sustainable source of revenue.

As a biocertified company,

Baobab Fruit Company

Senegal separates the fruit in a

purely mechanical way into its

single components. In doing

so, no chemicals or physical

substances are added and

processing is done using

European technology and

according to strict standards

of hygiene.

prodUcTion and properTiesFrom the relatively small seeds

of the baobab tree, two

different oils are obtained.

One, Baobab classic oil,

is cold-pressed; the other,

Baobab Oxy-Oil, is obtained by

macerating micronized pits/pips

in sunflower oil using ultrasound

to stimulate the release of

active ingredients. Because of

its versatile properties, baobab

oil is of particular interest to

cosmetic companies. Baobab

classic oil is characterized by

its antioxidant properties and

its high palmitic acid content,

which has a remarkably

high affinity for skin and has

a positive impact on skin

penetration. In fact, a study

at Ferrara University, Italy,

demonstrated that the topical

application of baobab oil

significantly increases skin

elasticity. Its high tocopherol

content results in considerable

oxidative stability. Baobab Oxy-

Oil is also extremely effective

as a free radical scavenger.

Moreover, it inhibits the growth

of dermatophytes and Candida

albicans, which makes it a

useful additive in both hand

care and foot care products

(particularly regarding nail

care). In addition, both oils

add brilliance to dry hair.

Areas of application include

the following:

• Face packs

• Bath essences, soaps,

shower gels and shampoo

• Antiageing products

• Sun care products

• Hand and foot care

products

• Other skincare products.

BaoBaB frUiT coMpany senegal and creMer care Cremer Care’s corporate vision

— “Inspired by Nature” — has

once again been brought

to life by the co-operation

with Baobab Fruit Company

Senegal. Users of our baobab

oil will not only be able to

enjoy a high quality, natural

product, they will do so in the

certain knowledge that they are

indirectly supporting fair and

sustainable work in one of the

more disadvantaged areas of

the world. phM

The topical

application

of baobab oil

significantly

increases skin

elasticity.

strap

36 autumn 2010

SulforaWhitePhyto agent for visible whitening

SulforaWhite is a natural whitening active with a new mechanismof action. It effectively inhibits pigmentation by targeting thetwo key upstream reaction steps of the melanin cascade; radicalsand alpha-MSH. SulforaWhite is based on garden cress sprouts.

• Effectively inhibits melanin formation• Provides exceptional brightening benefits• Fades the appearance of age spots and discolorations

SulforaWhite reduces the effects of daytime stressors and helpsto prevent the formation of melanin for a brighter, more luminousskin complexion.

Mibelle

AG

Biochem

istry,5033

Buchs/Switzerland

,Pho

ne+41

(0)6283617

31

www.mibellebiochemistry.com

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