Performance in Motion - Summer 2010

Canadian Publications Mail Product Sales Agreement #40609642

Vol.10 #2 • SUMMER 2010

Green Machine

Tony Brown’s

SUMMER 2010 • PiM • 3

18

28

24

Performance in Motion 1100 Th e QueenswayToronto, ON M8Z 1P7Phone: 416-259-3678 Fax: 416-259-6433

EDITOR/PUBLISHERBob [email protected]

PRODUCTION DESIGNRob McJannett

CONTRIBUTORS Th omas AndersonMike BennettJustin Forsyth Jeremy Alan GloverFrank Malfara Robert MichaelsonLeonard F. Slyewith Bonnie Staring as the Reluctant Passenger

PROOFREADERSpike “Th e Machine” LaVigne

Are you Moving? Let us know, email us at: [email protected]

PUBLICATIONS MAIL AGREEMENT NO. 40609642 • PERFORMANCE IN MOTION is published four times a year: Spring, Summer, Fall, and Winter. Circula-tion is 30,000+ (ISSN 1703-8421)

Copyright ©2010 All rights reserved by Perfor-mance In Motion Publishing. � e � ne print: We respect your privacy, and do not sell our mailing list. All opinions are those of the usual gang of idi-ots, most of whom sni gas fumes. � e informa-tion presented is via said gas sni ers, from which there can be no responsibility by the Publishers as to legality, completeness or accuracy. Recycle this magazine - give it to your friends. If you enjoy our magazine, be sure to let us know! � is maga-zine may not be reprinted without permission of Performance In Motion Publishing. (We’re nice guys, just ask) • � anks for everything Mr. D •

None of this would have been possible without you. •

Table of ContentsEditorial ...................................................................5Performance World 2010 ..........................................6HushMat Install .....................................................102010 London Auto Expo .........................................14Book Review ...........................................................17Cold Air Intake Install ...........................................18Can a Fuel Filter give you Free Horsepower? ...........22Slide Show Drift .....................................................24Tony Brown’s 1957 Green Machine ........................28Install Child Seats in your Old School Ride ...........32Ten Worst Motoring Off ences ................................36Event Schedule .......................................................39Book Review ...........................................................40Product Showcase ...................................................41Directory Ads .........................................................44Reluctant Passenger ...............................................46

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I am starting to feel disenfranchised. As a car nut living in

Toronto, who likes to drive his cars, it appears that my political bosses have it in for me and all my other car friends.

In September 2008, Toronto rolled out a “Personal Vehicle Tax” of $60 for every car registered in the city. No matter how hard the enthusiasts pleaded, there has been no exemption for hobby cars that are seldom driven. So, if you happen to own more than one car, you are on the hook for this additional charge.

Our family of two own six cars, but only two are daily drivers. Th e others are simply hobby cars. Th is year one has been driven 800 miles, one 1,500 miles, one 300 miles, and the last one has not turned a wheel for fi ve years. Before you start thinking “boy is he rich,” the total value of our six cars would not buy us a single so-called, prestige car. I could accept that we would pay $120 for our daily drivers, but I still take exception to the additional $240.

At the time the tax was put into place, our leaders predicted 24 million in revenue the fi rst year, then 56 million each year into the future. If their numbers are right, and they seldom are, we will have injected $136,000,000 into Toronto’s coff ers by year-end.

What have we got for this? It certainly isn’t better roads! Our roads remain dismal. It certainly isn’t a leap forward in “Th e Better Way.” Almost daily the papers are fi lled with complaints about service, or cleanliness. If nothing else, perhaps they should change their slogan.

Today, they are adding bike lanes on Jarvis, taking out one full lane from one of the busiest streets in the city. So, I guess these people haven’t realized we live in an area that has a winter. It will be interesting to count the bikes once the weather turns cold and it starts snowing.

Add to this the current threat of toll roads leading into the city, and you may be able to understand my discontent with our political masters.

What can we do? Be sure you let your city councillor know your position, explain that you will have to vote for the more rational ones who do not live in the fantasy that they can get all the cars off the road. Since Mayor Miller is not standing for re-election, we will be denied the pleasure of voting him off the island. Th ere are a lot of car enthusiasts in the city; if we band together and speak with one voice, we can be heard. At least, that’s my take on the problem.

Notice I did not suggest moving to Mississauga (even though I know Hazel would not let her council be so stupid!) nor did I suggest getting your cars registered out of Toronto. But it’s a thought…

Edito

r’s N

ote

Editorial

6 • PiM • SUMMER 2010

Performance World 2010

As this year’s show dates approached, we all had concerns about what

2010 would be like. We lost one of Toronto’s longest running hot rod shows. Sad tales of our econ-omy were a daily occurrence. As the date drew closer, rumours there would be no new cars this year and that attendance would be down were rampant.

Some of the rumours proved true, obviously Brenda and her crew had a hard time selling commercial space. Individual cars on display were probably slightly down since the show took up less floor space than in previous years. However, there were numerous high-quality, brand new cars being shown for the first time, so that rumour was a non-starter.

Attendance is a hard thing to judge unless you are there every day. With no real figures to draw from, our guess is that the num-bers were down, however, that could relate to the unbelievable weather they had that weekend. It was a great opportunity to get out of the house.

Overall, the show remained good value, the features were ex-cellent, and it was great to see all the car folks come out of hiber-nation again. For 2011, all seems to be going forward; we are aware of a number of new projects des-tined to unveil next year, plus our economy is strengthening (ac-cording to our politicians).

We will just wait and see. Here are some photos from the 2010 event. •

Story & Photos by: Len Sly

Starting with 1951 Mercury 2-Door

Sedan, Ed McLean has created a full

custom 1951 Mercury hardtop, convertible

roadster. Bailie Customs did the

huge amount of hand metalwork to create

this amazing custom, far too much to list

here, you have to see this one!

Tony Presto brought his blown alcohol Al Billes-powered

1967 Chevy II out. Tony runs the OSCA

Outlaw series and has turned a best time of

7.09 at 206mph.

2010Performance World


Remember the late 60s straight-axle gassers? Ed Harder’s full-race 283-pow-ered, 4-speed 1963 Chevy II brought nostalgic thoughts to the grey beards at the show.

Again this year, Tony DeLuca showed up with another new car. This year’s offering was a ‘37 Ford High-boy Coupe. Starting with an OZE Rod Shop body and frame, Tony and his “gang” created this unique 350 SBC-powered Hot Rod.

Steven Bloom is another builder who always brings a new car to the show. This years 1932 Ford three window coupe features an indepen-dent front suspension, hours of block sanding and 4 stage “Bloom-berry Pearl” paint.

This beautiful 1957 Chev Bel Air is the product of 33 people! They classified it as a “retro rod” powered by a 355 cu-in-SBC engine hooked to a GM 700R4 trans. Best of all, it was built to be driven!


1971 “Plum Crazy” Dodge Challenger convertible owned by Tom and Carla Van-dermeer believed to be one of only eleven in existence. Restored by Alan Gallant, this is a great example of the best of this era.

Another new build at the show was the 1937 Ford Coach of Gary Hamilton. Finished just days before the show, Gary has taken a style of car not often used as the base and made an exception-ally nice cruiser from it.

Unfortunately, there was no information available for this great looking 1957 Ford Custom. Chopped top, split rear windows, and much body-molding work were just a few of the features.

If you are interested in race cars, there were numerous at Performance

World. One of the nicest was the CRC race car of Toby Follows.

Bill Pearsall’s ‘87 Monte Carlo SS stock car is a regular racer at Sunset Speedway. Probably one of the more unusual spon-sors seen at the track.

Dave Bell and Mike Wagg had the B&W Racing Top Sports-man 1994 Dodge Daytona at the show. Power comes from a 605 cu-in engine with Indy heads.


HushMat Install

Story and Photos by Robert Michaelson

HushMatAre you tired of too much

road noise, or too many vibration noises? Want that pleasing “THUNK” sound that a high-end car provides as you close the door? Consider adding sound deadening material to your door panels, floors, trunk skin etc. There are a number of products on the market: some are good, some not so good, and it appears that the prices go that way too. The really cheap stuff does not do the job properly. We looked at most of the products available and settled on the HushMat product for a couple of reasons. First, the product has been selected by the OEM’s for their vehicles. GM, Ford, Chrysler, Honda and others, specify and use these materials. They are made in the U.S. not

overseas; they are simple to install, plus they offer a wide variety of product depending on just what your need is. By far, the most popular product is the HushMat Ultra. Ultra is the most used product in the HushMat line, available in either 12” x 12” or 12” x 23” squares. You can buy door kits, trunk kits etc., but if you are doing a complete vehicle the best buy is the Bulk Kit (covers 58.7 square feet) Special tools, heat guns etc. are not necessary; the only things needed were a good utility knife, a black sharpie, scissors, a tape measure and a small roller to get into the corners.

Since we were doing a 32 roadster, it was fairly easy to remove the seat and door panels making access simple. Their instructions suggest you wear gloves to protect from cuts, but we did not and we still have all our fingers. HushMat will stick to any surface, so elaborate cleaning is not necessary. We simple vacuumed out any dirt, etc. then began.

Keep it Quiet with


We covered all the flat surfaces first, trimming as we needed to. HushMat did not lie; you simply peel off the backing paper and press the product onto the surface. Once all the easy stuff was done, using the paper we had peeled off to create the necessary patterns to fill in the voids. It was simple to draw it onto the ultra material with your sharpie and cut it out

with scissors. This is where those of you who do jigsaw puzzles will shine, figur-ing out how to use the least amount of material to get the most coverage.

This is truly a simple project. We only shot a couple of photos since you can go to their web site www.hushmat.com and find complete step-by-step instructions to do all the different parts of the vehicle.

There is a couple of other items in the line that caught our eye. If you are serious about your sound system, look carefully at the Megabond silencer. It is a thermal-insulating, sound-absorbing foam material aimed at the audio market. They also have a “Quiet Tape” and Ultra H2O seam sealer. Since we are building a roadster with no top, the only audio we are expecting

HUSHMAT Ultra

Vibration Damping & Thermal Insulation Material is a pressure-sensitive, damping material which has excellent adhesion. HushMat Ultra is provided in 12” x 23” rectangular or 12” x 12” square sheets and can be easily hand-cut with scissors or a utility knife for special configurations.

HushMat Ultra, provides outstanding thermal insulation. Enjoy a Cool, Quiet and Comfortable ride with HushMat.

The only stuff you need to install HushMat are a few tools: Scissors, Utility Knife, Marker, (a roller helps if you have one) and patience.


HUSHMAT Ultra H2O

Damping and Seam Sealing Paste is a one-part water-based and air-dry body seam sealing and damping material. HushMat Ultra H-2-O is great for damping those hard to reach areas inside the door frame and rear quarter panels and for sealing body panels and enclosures. HushMat Ultra H-2-O’s chemistry allows for adhesion to sheet metal, wood and fiberglass surfaces and maintains flexibility when cured.

is the sound of the loudest mufflers we could find (Smithy’s Glasspaks). After all, it is a Hot Rod! However, the quiet tape was really handy. The trunk is cable operated and when you are running on anything less than a perfectly flat surface, the cable slaps the wheel well. I had tried to stick it down with duct tape, but it wouldn’t stay stuck, using the Quiet Tape it did! I also

used it to anchor all the wires that run through the body ensuring they don’t bounce around or rub against each other and to seal any holes where wires had to pass thru the body. Just like the Ultra material, the Quiet Tape sticks to everything. The seam sealer had no place in a fiberglass roadster, but I have owned some 50s and 60s cars where the factory dum dum seal had

broken both under the hood and in the trunk lid. This stuff applied with a caulk-ing gun would solve that problem and stop the panel drumming that a broken seal allows. HushMat lives up to its billing, a good product, easy to install, that does what it claims. What more could you expect? •


HUSHMAT Quiet Tape

Get rid of the duct tape that doesn’t stay stuck. HushMat Quiet Tape adhesion is guaranteed. Use quiet tape to secure wire harnesses and cables to door, floor, trim panels, etc. Eliminate the nuisance noise caused by wire harnesses and cables rattling. This also reduces wear and tear on wires and cables. Simply peel and stick Quiet Tape bridging over the wire or cable. Hand press the tape to sheet metal, plastic or fiberglass surface. The job is done.

Available in tape strips 2” x 6” or a 1” x 30’ shop roll.


2010 London Auto Expo

2010 LONDON AUTO EXPO

In 1953, $7,750 would have bought you one of

these rare 331 cu. in. V8-powered Cadillac

Eldorado convertibles. Th ere were only 532 of

these built. Th is one is in amazing condition.

Long-time hot rodder’s Jim and Barb Prowse

had their “Work in Progress”

‘32 Ford three-window coupe on display.

Th e Piston Pushers, one of Ontario’s oldest car

clubs, formed in 1954. Th ey created this

elaborate display with loads of nostalgia

components, as well as their cars on display.

One of the cars in the Piston Pushers

club display was this beautifully restored

1958 Chevrolet Impala Convertible.


The Progress building in London, Ontario’s

Western Fairgrounds was once again the site of the London Auto Expo. Th is year’s event was held March 26 through 28 with more than 100 enthusiast vehicles on display and 26 vendors showing their wares.

Th e Auto Expo was well attended, with many of the local car clubs supporting the show. One of Canada’s oldest car clubs, the Piston Pushers, had one of the best displays to be seen at a car show in many a year. Not only did they have a great ar-ray of club vehicles, but their

display was peppered with nostalgia items from the hot rod world.

Cars were not the only entertainment at the expo, Friday night featured a ga-rage party with karaoke, and on Saturday night attendees were entertained by a live band called “Radio.”

No matter if you were interested in antiques, hot rods, muscle cars, race cars or tuners, there were vehicles for you to study. People we spoke with indicated that they enjoyed the show and would plan to come back in 2011. If you live in the area, you should be there too.•

Mark and Ryan Rogerson’s 60s-style 55 Chevrolet ground pounder features a stout 292 cu.-in. tunnel ram-equipped small block.

Th is rare 4-door Lincoln sits right and looked right at home on the show fl oor.

Ken Wright’s ‘49 Anglia Drag racer is oft en in this position at the drag strip.

Story & Photos by: Frank Malfara


No matter what type of racing you follow,

there was an example on display. This

CRC racing coupe was one of the most

interesting.

Apple Auto glass sponsors this well-crafted sprint car

driven by London’s Doug Bowman

Bud and Steve Polhill’s competitive

1913 T-bodied race car is powered with a

4-cylinder GM Ecotec engine.

This small-block Chevrolet-powered

Model A Roadster is a great example of a

traditional Hot Rod.

This “Green Pearl 90” Ford Tempo would

certainly attract your attention.


Book Review

Book Review:

Mo r e t h a n t w o

million fi rst-g e n e r a t i o n Mustangs were produced in the eight and a half years they were in production. Many of those cars are still cherished by their owners, but are in need of a complete overhaul to put them back in perfect condi-tion. In 192 pages, Frank Bohanan’s book will take you through the complete process necessary to return your Mustang to peak condition. No matter if you want to recon-dition everything from bumper to bumper or just to renew certain sections, there are detailed instructions that off er the step-by-step sequences to lead you through the job correctly. With chapters on body, paint, engine, transmission, drivetrain, suspension, brakes and electrical, all the segments are broken down into detailed, manageable instruc-tions explaining how to reclaim lost glory in that particular portion. Th is book is liber-ally illustrated with more than 500 colour photos. Th e section on the interior shows exactly what you will need to bring the inside back to perfect condition, all the while showing the reader a lot of tricks unknown to the average do-it-yourself enthusiast. Th ey take the diffi culty out of the project.

No matter if you are building an authentic period-correct Mustang or simply building a great weekend cruiser, this book will save you money and prevent you from making costly mistakes. •

SA#185 •144 pages • 350 colour photos • Suggested Retail $33.99


Cold Air Intake Install

If you look under the hood of any vehicle built after 1990, they all have one thing in

common: an intake system that pulls air from a fender-well or from the front of the core support, supplying the engine with fresh cool air for maximum power and ef-ficiency. Why? Because cold air is denser than warm air, cooler intake air provides a denser charge, making your engine more powerful and efficient, which equals more tire churning power!

Most classic street ma-chine owners never give a second thought to slapping a 14-inch round open air cleaner on top of their modi-fied engine. But your over-

size radiator, headers and all those hoses cause under hood temperatures to rise, it can spike as high as 220 degrees on a hot summer day. You are leaving horsepower on the table! The team at Spectre Per-f o r m a n c e , decided cold air intakes shouldn’t be strictly for the late mod-el crowd, so they designed a series of easy to install intake systems for classic Chevy muscle cars.

The principle is simple: pull cool air from outside the engine compartment

and feed it directly into the engine in the smoothest pos-sible way. Spectre offers a variety of intake systems for Camaro, Chevelle, El Cami-

no, Impala, Nova and more. We decided on a PowerPak system that uses a hat on top of the carburetor pulling air from the corners of the en-gine compartment that have been isolated from the heat

COLDAIR=MOREPOWERStory and Photos by Thomas Anderson

Installing a Spectre ProFab Cold Air Intake on a Camaro

cooler intake air provides a denser charge,

making your engine more

powerful + efficient,

= more power!


with laser-cut heat shields. Spectre systems make im-pressive power gains, since they can drop inlet air tem-perature by as much as 100 degrees. The more powerful your engine, the more air it requires, since engines are ba-sically big air pumps.

Ever wonder why your car feels so much faster on cold winter mornings than on hot summer afternoons? The more power you make, the more your engine is effected by the density (temperature) of the air. Cooler, denser air means more oxygen is packed into the combustion cham-ber on every compression stroke. The more powerful your engine, the greater the improvement in power. A 500-horsepower engine can see a 100-horsepower gain from a 110 degree inlet air temp drop. But even a modest 30 degree inlet air temp drop picks up 24 horsepower and 25 lb/ft of torque!

Follow along as Spectre installs an intake on a early Camaro powered by a stan-dard small-block Chevy. The entire process took less than an hour, and we were on the road and making more power. Every Spectre ProFab intake uses a high-flow, re-useable hpR air filter element that is backed by their unlim-ited lifetime warranty. •

COLDAIR=MOREPOWER

Our test subject is a standard 350-powered Camaro with all the standard speed parts, including headers and an aftermarket intake manifold. Since heat rises, the hot air coming off the headers is being pulled directly into the carburetor.

First, remove the nut, air filter and stud, test-fit the Spectre plenum on the carburetor. You will likely have to shorten the stud since the dual-snorkel intake has a much lower profile than a standard air cleaner.

Now it’s time to add the heat shields and the intake tubes.

Remove the factory fender braces. The filters and heat shields will tuck into the corners of the engine compartment beneath these braces.

Drop the laser-cut aluminum heat shield into place and use the included bolts to fasten it to the fender.


They are pre-bent to fit precisely into the corner and come with rubber seals to keep as much unwanted heat out as possible.

Here you can clearly see how the heat shield works. Once it is bolted in securely, feed the filter side of the mandrel-bent intake tube through the grommet in the center of the shield.

Push the sleeve up onto the end of the plenum. Now pull the intake tube back slightly and press firmly into the open end of the sleeve.

Make sure you put two hose clamps on the sleeve before slipping in the intake tube. Tighten up the hose clamps evenly and firmly, but don’t make them too tight.

Finally, push the Spectre hpR filter onto the end of the tube and secure the hose clamp. On this particular car, the customer relocated his battery to the trunk so we had room for a dual-snorkel intake.


If the battery was still in the stock location, we could have used a Sidewinder intake which only has one tube.

Bolt the fender brace back in place and the driver’s side is complete. Repeat for the passengers side.

The Spectre ProFab PowerPak laser-cut heat shields isolate the high-flow hpR filters from underhood engine heat. Cold air enters the air boxes from the open fenderwells.

Spectre’s PowerPak not only improves power and engine efficiency, it looks pretty cool too.

The more powerful the engine, the greater the improvement in power. A 500-horsepower engine can see a 100-horsepower gain from a 110-degree inlet air temp drop. But even a modest 30-degree inlet air temp drop picks up 24 horsepower and 25 lb/ft of torque!


As engines become more sophisticated

and little things become big things, along comes FST Performance (Fuel Solutions Technologies) with a line of high quality fuel filter/water separator systems.

Now with loads of fuel filters on the market, what would make these FST units superior? Two things, first; they filter down to 5 microns, far smaller than competi-tive filters. Second; the filter media will not allow water to pass through. Water and unwanted contaminants are trapped in the bottom of the filter.

Now, your first thought is probably “Filters that fine must be horribly restrictive.” Nope, FST’s filter media will flow up to 300 gallons per hour, while supporting engines up to 2,000 horse-power.

FST Performance offers three differing filters: FloMax 300 features a CNC machined 6061-T6 housing that accepts ½” NPT fittings. There are two inlet and two outlet ports making installation simple and allowing the installa-tion of a fuel pressure gauge. Filtering is accomplished by an easy to install and remove spin on canister. This is their

most popular model and it retails for under

$100. F l o M a x

300R uses a similar

h o u s i n g , but this one

is designed to accept #12 ORB AN

fittings. The filter canis-ter offers increased fuel volume and a larger area

to store contaminants. This model is the one that

racers and performance

marine enthusiasts are using. Both FloMax housings can be easily mounted and are designed to properly filter Gasoline, Racing Gasoline, Ethanol or Methanol.

The third item in the FST arsenal is the TurboFyner. A true onboard diesel fuel refiner system offering high-performance diesel filtration, water separation and fuel heating to ensure maximum performance from your diesel engine. Fuel heating is particularly important to those of us who live in Canada, where the cold weather can have a detrimen-tal effect on the operation of our diesel engines.

If you think that $100 seems expensive for a fuel filter, check the price on a set of replacement fuel injectors. If you are a racer, what is the cost of losing a race because of a fouled carburetor or plugged injector. These FST products will prevent that from happening.

Well-known NASCAR engine builder Keith Dorton of Automotive Special-ties has suggested the FST product be installed on all his engines. •

Can a Fuel Filter give you Free Horsepower?

FREE HORSEPOWER? How much water and other power-robbing contaminants are you burning with your fuel?

Written by: Thomas Michaelson


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Slide Show Drift

Drifting,it’s a love-hate relationship between a car and a driver

supported by a team. Th ere are many articles out there that discuss drift ing as a form of motor sport, trying to explain to the naysayer that this is a valid form of racing. Drift ing is not judged on who reaches the fi nish line fi rst, but who has the most skill during a battle between two drivers and their vehicles, allowing only one to advance to the next round.

I would like to introduce and tell you a little about the “SlideShow Drift Team.” It all started when Justin Forsyth, a licensed mechanic and self-proclaimed gear head with a background of circle track racing, began wrenching on imports just as the import scene started to take off in Southern Ontario. With so many options to pursue in the tuner market, it was a tough decision; however, as soon as he saw his fi rst drift event, he knew what had to be done.

Written by: Justin Forsyth • Photos By: Jeremy Alan Glover

Slide Show Dri ft


DRIFTING

Justin selected a Nissan S14 (240sx) as a basis to begin his drift career that was both used on the track and as a summer vehicle. Working his way through grassroots events such as CSCS (Canadian Sport Compact Series), he dedicated all his extracurricular time to building and maintaining the vehicle and honing his skills on the track.

In 2008, Justin’s hard work paid off when he was awarded a DMCC (Drift Mania Canadian Championship) license.

Once again with the licence came the need to build another car. However, this time it would be diff erent, with the selection of a Nissan S13 chassis. Th e car, powered initially by a Mazworx built SR20 stroked to a 2.2l, laid down an incredible 540hp and 420lbs of torque at a measly 24lbs of boost, thanks to Dan Pye at U2Ndyno.

Charge piping and other fabrication components came the way of Vibrant Performance.


Engine components are controlled through an AEM EMS, and fuel delivery is supplied using Russell Performance automotive fittings and lines. Fuel pressure is maintained through the use of an Aeromotive pump and dual filters. Lastly are the tires for the vehicle, in this case, Neutron Tires were selected to fit the need of good wear, performance and cost due to the fact of being an independent team. All of these parts were sourced through our local Performance Improvements in Barrie, Ontario.

After a wall hit at round 5 last year during competition at Downsview Park, the chassis required some extreme changes through the winter of 2009-2010.

With the assistance of Adrian Collison, Chris Goslin, Darren Minnings and Adam Tutt, the car was dismantled and full tube work was fabricated and completed. The car, as you see it now, is much lighter and more tuneable when it comes to different suspension setups and response to driver input.

There are six events this year in the DMCC eastern series. Five of which are in Quebec, with one in Ontario at Mosport, in the town of Bowmanville, September 18 and 19. Check out the schedule online at DMCCdrift.com and make it out to one of your local events to see what the fastest growing motor sport in North America is all about! •

Fuel pressure is maintained through the use of an Aeromotive pump and dual filters.

Keep in tune with team updates and event news by joining SlideShow Drift Team on Facebook, oh and don’t forget to follow us on Twitter.


P.I. TORONTO1100 The QueenswayToronto, Ontario 416-259-9656

P.I. BARRIE422 Dunlop St. W. Barrie, Ontario 705-735-1274

P.I. BRAMPTON12 Rutherford Rd. S.Brampton, Ontario 905-453-9901

P.I. GUELPH672 Woolwich StreetGuelph, Ontario 519-821-6740

P.I. HAMILTON891 Upper James Hamilton, Ontario905-574-6940

P.I. OSHAWA1487 Simcoe St. NorthOshawa, Ontario 905-725-3533

P.I. PIERREFONDS4909 Boul. St. CharlesPierrefonds, Quebec (514) 626-1866

Call Toll-Free: 1-877-471-6700

Available at all Locations


Tony Brown’s 1957 Green Machine

Tony Brown has been building cars for longer than he

really wants to admit. In the early years, they were simple hot rods used as daily transportation. There was a side trip to the drag strip with the Brothers Brown blown Chevy Fiat, however, the bulk of the building was for street-driven cars. Time passed leading to better and better examples of the car builder’s skills. Often working with his brother Duke and other members of the car club they started way back when (the Roadmates), there were many. The ones that he is particularly proud of were the 37 Ford Coupe,

the ‘32 Ford highboy roadster and the chopped 1959 Chevrolet pickup.

Since retiring as President of Clarion Canada, Tony was building a car a year. However, this latest adventure took two. Club member Doug Graham had started this 1957 sedan delivery, but after a number of years, Doug decided that it was not for him, so Tony bought it. When he received it, the sedan delivery had been stripped of its interior, engine and the paint had been removed.

Now Tony is an excellent body man, he knows how to remove the flaws and ripples that years of use and abuse

will put into a 50-year-old body. After repairing any sheet metal that needed to be fixed, hours of block sanding began.

You can imagine how hard it is to get all the long flat panels on a sedan delivery ripple free. It takes patience and lots of elbow grease. The hood was relieved of unnecessary ornaments, trim was restored and the side panels now received new Bel Air side trim. When you see how great this looks you have to wonder why GM did not have a Bel Air model back then?

With the body complete, the chassis was gone through, rubbers and bushings were

Green MachineStory & Photos By Bob McJannett.


replaced, front springs were dropped two inches, shocks were replaced with gas units and sway bars were installed at both ends of the chassis. Disk brakes were installed in the front along with a power booster. The rear end was replaced with a 3.90 ratio Ford 9” unit. The chassis was

brought to modern spec. Underhood went a

350 Chevrolet small-block equipped with an Edelbrock intake and carburetor, an HEI distributor and block hugger headers. Behind the engine went a GM700R4 transmission with a Lokar shifter. For creature comfort,

Tony also installed a Vintage Air air conditioner.

With all these segments complete, the sedan delivery was taken to Davies Autobody in Toronto’s west end to have the base clear paint applied. The two colours chosen were 2008 Lexus colours, the upper portion was painted Pistachio and the bottom Olive Green Grey. It is a great combination.

Island interiors in Port Perry were charged with upgrading the interior, while matching the exterior paint scheme. They did a fine job covering the cavernous interior with carefully created interior panels, also on the cut down Monte Carlo buckets. Classic instruments supplied the

Tony Brown’s 1957 sedan delivery


gauges and a Painless wiring kit was used to take the volts to their proper locations. A Grant steering wheel tops the column. Needless to say, Tony installed one of his past employer’s stereo systems. Over 1,000 watts of great sound.

Polished American Torque Thrust wheels shod with Goodyear Eagle rubber complete the package. Watch for it at cruise nights and shows – it’s a looker! •

1957 Green Machine

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Install Child Seats in your Old School Ride

I’m gonna go out on a limb here and guess that if you’re reading this

magazine you love cars, just like me. I’m also gonna assume that for those of you who have a family, you love your kids too, just like me. One thing I do know for sure, is that car people like to share our hobby with others…our friends, our families, and in my case, my young children. I’ve got a 6-year old and an 18-month old, and they both like my old car, which is great! The problem is, how do you safely bring your kids along with you when you want to go for a cruise?

I have a penchant for unusual early to mid 60s Fords and GM products. In most cases, these vehicle have no seat belts at all, let alone child restraint systems and/or tether points for car seats. So what’s any self-respect-ing hot-rodder going to do? Wel,l make something of course!

The first order of business is a good quality set of lap belts for the back seat. Autoloc makes great seatbelts in just about any colour you’d want and with two styles of latch. A standard button release and a classic chrome aircraft lift-style latch.

How To:

Install Child Seats in your Old School Ride!Story & Photos By: Mike Bennett

Autoloc anchor plate kit (PN 12186) comes with heavy duty 7/16” bolts and great big reinforcing plates.

Autoloc makes seatbelts in just about any colour you’ d want and with two styles of latch: Button release and a classic chrome aircraft-style latch.


I opted for the button style as it’s a bit harder for prying little fingers to accidentally release. I started by finding the centerline of each rear seat and used masking tape to mark that on the back window for future refer-ence. I then pulled the back seat out, which, for most 60s cars, involves pushing down on the leading edge of the bottom portion, while pulling forward to release the hook.

Once the bottom is out, two small bolts hold the backrest portion in. Once they are out, you simply pull the back portion up to release it from its hooks.

Now, using a marker, transfer the centerline location of each seat from the tape you put on the back window, to the floor, in approxi-mately the location of where the upper and lower portion of the rear seat cushion meets. Time to drill some holes!

Measure out 9” on either side of the center-line marks you made and mark your spots for drilling.

Before drilling, take a good look under-neath your ride to make sure you’re not going to drill into the gas tank, exhaust system, or other obstruction. If something is in the way, do your best to move your mounting point into an appropriate new location.

I like to start with a ¼” pilot hole then I use my trusty step bit to increase the hole size to 7/16”. Once all four holes are complete, you can begin installing the lap belts.

I used the Autoloc anchor plate kit (PN 12186) which comes with heavy duty 7/16” bolts and great big reinforcing plates to reduce floor tear through in case of an accident.

Now that we’ve got lap belts, we need a tether point on the package tray to secure your young one’s car seat. So, like most car guys, I looked for an option that worked well and looked good. My search led me to the truck world, and I ended up with a Bully brand (PN WTD810) pop-up stake pocket cargo tie down.


It’s rated at 1,000lbs and is nicely chrome plated. This way, when I don’t have the car seats in, all you see on the package tray is a small chrome square plate.

With the back seat still out, I removed the package tray simply by pulling it forward. I used the same centerline marks we put on the rear window earlier, to mark the mounting position of the tie downs on the package tray.

I used the supplied backing plate to mark the location of the bolt holes, as well as the hole I would have to make for the body of the hold down. I center punched the bolt hole locations and drilled ¼” holes for the mount-ing hardware.

I then got my cut off grinder and carefully cut the rectangular hole for the body of the hold down. A quick clean up of the cuts and holes with a rat tail file and the mounting holes were complete.

I then slid the original package tray back in place and used a sharp tip marker from under-neath to mark where I would have to cut the package tray and drill holes for clearance. Some quick work with a box cutter-style knife and ¼” drill, and the whole deal was ready for a test fit.

Satisfied that everything lined up nicely, I then cut a new piece of vinyl (that I sourced from my local Fabricland) a couple of inches larger around then the package tray. I flipped it over and sprayed both the underside of the vinyl and the top of the old package tray with spray adhesive in an aerosol can. Let the adhesive set up and then carefully lay the new vinyl over the package tray and apply pressure by rubbing from the center to the outside.

Once the glue was dry, I then used my box cutter to cut the vinyl where the holes were cut in the old package tray for the tie downs to slide through.

Bully brand (WTD810)

Pop-Up Tie Downs.

Are you done yet?

Install Baby Seats in your Old School Ride


Slide the newly recovered package tray back in and install the tie downs, making sure you tighten them properly.

Now just reverse the seat removal procedure, reinstall-ing the seat back and bottom. Now, you’re ready to bolt in your child car seat as per the manufacturer’s instructions. This car is my daily driver so this setup gets used every day. It looks good, works great, and my little ones can safely cruise with their car crazy daddy! •

Let’s Go For a Ride, Dad!


After forty years and a few million kilometres of driving under my seat belt, I have witnessed many transgressions committed by motorists. Here is my list of the ten worst motor-ing offences.

Impaired Driving: whether it is by drugs or distraction, this is

the leading cause of deaths and destruction on our roads. Being impaired by drugs, which includes alco-hol, “street” drugs or some prescription drugs, negative-ly affects four of the most important functions of safe driving ability, judgment,

coordination, vision and reactions. Just as dangerous, is being distracted by cell phone conversations, “tex-ting”, chatting to passengers, day dreaming, entertain-ment systems or any other distraction that prevents motorists from focusing on driving.

Running Red Lights: This is also one of the most

deadly motoring mistakes. Running a red light for purely selfish reasons or due to distraction will eventually end up in a serious collision. Saving that little bit of extra time is never worth the risk.

Following too close: I am always amazed by how

many motorists tailgate on our roads. Each and every day, I have drivers following much too closely behind me, and I have to take action to avoid this threat to my safety. When I encounter a driver that is to close to my rear bumper, I will gradu-ally slow down and keep right in the next available passing zone. Most motor-ists don’t even realize they are following too closely. At highway speeds, the average driver needs at least half a second to recognize a threat and then react. This equates to roughly 15 metres or five car lengths just to realize they need to start braking. With some drivers creep-ing up to within one or two

Written by: Ian Law

Ian Law, Chief Instructor of the IRL Car Control School, wrote these thoughts in an issue of the Toronto Star’s Wheels section. We thought he really hit the nail on the head! He was kind enough to allow us to repeat this article for you.

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car lengths of the vehicle in front, it doesn’t take a rocket scientist to realize that just isn’t enough time.

Parking in a handicapped spot: when

the driver is obviously not physically challenged at all. Most drivers who use these convenient parking spots genuinely need this conve-nience. Shamefully, some motorists have a permit that applies to someone in their family but they use it for their own benefit. It is these illegitimate users that make my radiator boil over. This is not only very selfish, but

can lead to someone who really has difficulty walking, having to park much farther away because the few handi-capped spaces are occupied by those not really in need of one.

Left lane driving: it still boggles my mind that drivers

will occupy the left lane and then stay there regardless of how many vehicles are lined up behind them waiting to pass. By now, there has been enough press about this mo-toring indiscretion that you would think drivers would have clued in.

Driving in the middle lane: instead of the right

lane. Too many motor-ists will poke along in the middle lane of a multi lane highway at a slower rate than the majority of traffic when they should be in the right lane. Trucks too, are notorious for this, and it leads to traffic bunching up as it tries to negotiate around the blockage with the resulting multiple lane changes occurring.

Failing to signal: both lane changes and turns. It is

not wise to surprise other

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Ian Law is the chief instructor at the IRL Car Control School. Ian is a championship winning racer with over 20 years experience behind the wheel of numerous high-performance vehicles. During this time, Ian developed the methods he now uses to teach regular drivers car control skills.

The ILR Car Control School teaches the skills necessary for drivers to survive on today’s highways. Winter Driving, Car Control and Performance Driving Schools are all available at reasonable prices. To improve your driving skills check out: www.carcontrolschool.com for details and available dates.

10 Worst motoring offences

drivers with your next move and it is also disrespectful. Signalling lane changes notifies other motorists of your need and is also a sort of an electronic “excuse me please” request to occupy the space in front of you. Not signalling is much like butt-ing into line.

Impatience: each day as I commute in rush hour traf-

fic, there are always a large number of drivers who need to get to work 10 minutes ago. They always zip out to the left lane, follow the other late drivers much too closely and then come to a screeching halt as the left lane soon becomes over populated. I seem to always catch up to these impatient drivers as I motor along in

the much less stressful right lane saving fuel, brake and eventually insurance costs.

Cutting off other drivers: to try and teach them

they have wronged you. Most motorists will speed up slightly to block another driver from merging into the space in front. This only leads to frustration, possible retaliation and road rage. It never teaches the other driver to not pull in front of you.

Fog lights: being used on clear

nights when there isn’t even a hint of fog. These lights are for a specific purpose and not to show everyone how cool you look. Fog lights are

to be used in thick fog when your headlights become detrimental to illuminating the road. Some drivers say they like to use them to light up the side of the road. If so, when you encounter oncom-ing traffic simply turn them off. •On another note, my trusty 1982 Volvo GLT just turned 777,777 kms. With numbers like that, should I buy a lotto ticket?

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Event Schedule

Sponsored by:

Contact George: [email protected] • [email protected]

www.streetclassics.com

Aug. 15, 20101pm to 5pm

EVENT SCHEDULEFor the Auto Enthusiast

August 13 - 15: Canadian Street Car Nationals - Toronto Motorsports Park - TNT Series

August 15: Street Classics “Real Hot Rod Show” Canadian Tire parking lot, 1608 Th e Queensway, Etobicoke, Ontario

August 20: Dunn Tire Raceway Park - TNT

August 27-29: Autofest Oshawa - Lakeview Park, Oshawa, Ontario

August 28 - 29: Hot Summer Brawl - Toronto Motorsports Park (TMP) - OSCA Series

September 3 - 5: Canadian Jet Car Nationals - Toronto Motorsports Park - TNT Series

September 4: Roadmates Corn Roast - Roadmates Car Club, North Service Road and Dixie, Mississauga, Ontario

September 6: Classics in the Country - Barber Sports Complex, Hillsburgh, Ontario

September 18-19: Championship Finals - Toronto Motorsports Park - OSCA

October 2: Sportsman Nationals - Toronto Motorsports Park - OSCA

October 2: Dunn Tire Raceway Park - TNT

Schedule - Subject to Change

2nd Annual Car Show featuring 1900 - 1957

Hot Rods, Roadsters, Rat Rods, & Mod Rods!

Rain Date: Sunday, Aug. 22 , 2010, 1-5pm.

Admission $10 • Public FREE

Held at the Canadian Tire 1068 Th e Queensway

Best in Class Trophies Plaques for Best Paint & Engine

& People’s Choice Award

Hot Rod Show

Book Review

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Dr. Detail � nishes include: Ultra Bright Chrome, Ultra Black Chrome, Satin Nickel, Tri-Nickel, Smoke & Brushed Aluminum or re-paint the colour of your choice!

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Turn your unsightly aluminum

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Book Review:

If you are planning to build a Hot Rod, you

should defi nitely read Jeff Tann’s book. Th is is the fi rst book that compares and contrasts all the diff erent styles of suspensions. No matter if you are thinking of a traditional dropped axle or exotic independent-style front and rear suspensions, you can fi nd out just what needs to be done to make it right.

Th e book focuses on Ford chassis from 1928 thru 1948 and compares original frames against aft ermarket off erings.

As well, there are separate segments describing Jag Rear suspensions, Heidts independent rear suspen-sions, installing four link systems, coil over and parallel leaf systems. Mustang, Opel, Corvair and Corvette systems are all featured. Best of all, this book includes detailed step-by-step photos to show you how to install these parts correctly.

With the information included in this book, you will be able to create your own chassis and suspension.

Enjoy the ride. •Author Jeff Tann is a very

respected writer and photog-rapher with more than 30 years experience in the world of hot rodding.

SA#185 • 144 pages • 350 colour photos • Suggested Retail $33.99


Product Showcase

Product Showcase

Drop Base Spun-Look Aluminum Air Cleaner Light weight air cleaner, Base and Lid only 2.2 lbs. Drop base utilizes radius air flow technology to smooth the transition into the throat of the carburetor making more power. The base and lid are finished in clear anodize for durability, while retaining the high tech spun aluminum look. The base drops 1-5/8” below the throat of the carb and the overall height is only 2-5/8” above the throat. Includes a 14” x 3” Paper Air Filter. AA1130

TKO Performance • 289 Chrome Air Cleaner Top off your 289, or hide the power of your sleeper! High performance chrome Air Cleaner, including 289 HiPo decal, Blue powder-coated base and 60’s retro-style air filter. These are complete

air cleaner assemblies, Includes top, bottom and filter element. Dimensions:

14” x 2” - Over all height: 3”. AA1110

Polished Stainless Overflow Tanks The stylish way to manage excess fluids. Not just catch cans, these stainless recovery tanks allow excess coolant to be drawn back into the rad upon cool down. Kits include brackets & bolts, Outlets take a 1/4” Hose. AA2850

Aluminum Carb Hat Don’t drop those nuts down that carb - Protect your carburetor and engine from dirt and debris You’ve seen the plastic Carb Hats, they burn, melt and get dirty. TKO Aluminum Carb Hat won’t crack, bend or distort like plastic and works on most carburetors. Includes bolt. AA1185

Book Review


Product ShowcaseTKO Performance • Exhaust Cut-Outs Maximize your exhaust flow with these exhaust cutouts. They are manufactured from steel and feature a weld-on design for a simple installation. The TKO exhaust cutouts are available to fit different diameter exhaust pipes, so you can install them on just about any application. Convert your vehicle from street legal to race-ready in a matter of minutes. Block off plates available for use without exhaust valve. AA2220

TKO Performance • Electric Exhaust Valves Uncork your exhaust system with the flip of a switch. Hate crawling under your car? TKO universal valves come with a wiring harness, switch and hardware. Just bolt the unit onto the end of your TKO Exhaust Cut Out using the included longer hardware and hit the switch, the butterfly plate on the exit opens to reduce backpressure. AA2250

Tech Tip:Not all electric exhaust cut-outs are the same!

TKO design features a stronger motor, heat insulating pads, and twice as many screws attaching the butterfly to the motor.

Compare TKO’s Cut-Out to the Ohio boys, Brand “S” or “J”:

1-Piece Motor Housing

2-Piece Motor Housing

Insulation

No-Insulation

4 Set Screws

Only 2 Set Screws

Brand

TKO &


Tech Tip:

There are two basic types of crimp tools: the ratchet style and the cheap pliers style. Ratchet style provides the ideal preset tension to the crimp. Never worry about the wire being loose, not a good electrical contact or even slipping out.

Ratcheting WeatherTight Terminal Crimper Ensures a perfect crimp every time! For most WeatherTight terminals and non-insulated open barrel connectors. The ratcheting action crimps to correct tightness on the wire, making crimping fast and easy. AA8851

Ratcheting Spark Plug Wire Crimper & Cutter The tools you need for spark plug wires. The ratcheting action crimps terminals to correct tightness on the wire, making crimping 8 & 8.5 mm Spark Plug Wires fast and easy. AA8853

Quick Change Crimping Kit Versatile kit includes seven dies for virtually all uses. Die sets quickly interchange for a wide range of terminals: insulated, WeatherPack, quick disconnect, non-insulated, rings, spade butt splices, coaxial cable, and 8mm & 8.5mm spiral core spark plug wire. Crimping Tool has a steel frame with contoured grips. Ratcheting action ensures a perfect crimp every time. Supplied in a durable, plastic molded storage case with carrying handle. AA8855

Strips, Crimps & Cuts Steel construction with insulated plastic handles. The ratcheting action automatically self-adjusts to strip solid or stranded 10-26 gauge wires. Adjustable stripping tension, cuts wire fast clean and smooth. Crimps insulated and non-insulated terminals. AA8854

Ratcheting action ensures a complete crimp every time! These Ratchet-style crimpers won’t release until your wire has been crimped properly.

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Reluctant Passenger

A friend purchased a small silver bell to hang off her Harley

the other day. She said it was to keep motorcycle-tampering gremlins at bay. Th e sound of the bell would make any gremlins drop to the ground, creating potholes wherever they landed.

I thought she was nuts. Who wouldn’t? Surely gremlin bells didn’t keep bikes running—regular mainte-nance and carnauba wax did.

Th en that got me thinking about some tales I’ve heard from automotive enthusiasts at cruise nights, during driveway troubleshooting events or while my dashing driver and I have waited for CAA to show up.

Names have been changed to protect those who need it.

Th e Superstitious Shift Near the ice cream truck on a cruise night, two attendees insisted upon following the custom of shift ing into fi rst before reverse for the fi rst drive of the day. Winston even admitted to letting his Dodge Dart inch forward a bit before he engaged the reverse gear. He rarely paral-lel parks.

Both believe it promotes good car-ma—to always move forward on the road and in life. I have a sneak-ing suspicion these friendly gents picked up the habit due to their vehicles’ stubborn trannys.

Th e Lucky Railroad CrossingApparently for a wish come true, you must raise your feet off the car fl oor when travel-ling over railroad tracks and make your wish. Th is might be a contributing factor to

the number of accidents that occur at railway level cross-ings. Th e adage “be careful what you wish for” comes to mind here.

If only those fools had heard the part about leaving this one for the passengers to do. I know what I’ll be wishing for next time: that more folks had brains.

Black Cats and PathsNever letting a black cat cross your path is alive and well, and may lead to a lengthy delay. For some, stopping the car to prevent this from happening is all that’s necessary. For others, a driver must wait for another vehicle to pass over the section of crossed-upon road before he/she may proceed.

And car nuts like Perse-phone will do this for any cat, not just the black ones.

Automotive MythsAutomotive MythsAutomotive Myths{BUSTING}


About the Author: Bonnie Staring is a comedian, advertising copywriter and one of those people who enters all kinds of contests. To see what else she’s been ranting about, visit her website: www.bonniestaring.com

Our feline friends love this game—they get 20 points for every car they stop. Buses earn them 50.

Legend of Lucky Bird CrapWhile this superstition has been passed from genera-tion to generation (pun intended), few incidents proving this theory have been documented.

In one case, Heathcliff stopped at the side of the road to wipe off the crud—and missed a multi-car pileup at the next intersection.

Further anti-poop proof is that acid from bird droppings will eat through the fi nish on cars with a modern base coat or clear coat.

Perhaps we should all follow Heathcliff ’s example and immediately wash the ride when the next load lands.

No matter what you believe, your best bet is to simply follow a regular maintenance schedule—and leave the horseshoes off the rear-view mirror. Enjoy the ride. •

Photo Illustration created by Robert Michaels.

LUCKY BIRD

CRAP?

Legend of

Documents

Performance in Motion - Summer 2010