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Pasture Pasture Management II Management II Mid-Atlantic Equine Pasture Initiative Dr. Amy Burk Dr. Amy Burk University of University of Maryland Maryland

Pasture Management II Mid-Atlantic Equine Pasture Initiative Dr. Amy Burk University of Maryland

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  • Pasture Management IIMid-Atlantic Equine Pasture InitiativeDr. Amy BurkUniversity of Maryland

  • Mow FrequentlyMaintains uniform grass standsPrevents weeds from going to seed/spreadingAfter horses graze pasture ~ 3 inches;Remove them to rest pastureMow grass at 3 inches

  • Drag Pastures

  • Irrigation

  • Renovate or Start Over?Continue Management:75% or more desirable plants left

    Improve Management/Renovate:40-75% desirable plants left

    Reestablish/Start Over:Less than 40% desirable plants left

  • Continue ManagementWhich option would you choose?

  • Improve ManagementWhich option would you choose?

  • Renovate PastureWhich option would you choose?

  • Reestablish PastureWhich option would you choose?

  • Pasture Establishment

  • Successful Seedling Establishment Depends On:Adequate lime and fertilizerProper seedbed preparationProper timingQuality seed/Species SelectionProper seeding practicesControlling competition

  • Herbicides

  • Firm Seedbed withExcellent Seed to Soil Contact

  • Seed at Proper TimeEarly spring seedings:March 15 April 15Early spring is best for overseeding/frost seedings

    Late summer seedings:August 15 Sept. 15Late summer preferred time for complete renovations

  • Pasture TillageBest to seed pastures with a no-till drillDrill cuts soil and places seed directly in soilProvides best seed-to-soil contactDoes not disturb soilReduces risk or eliminates soil erosion

  • Seeding a New Pasture

  • Pasture Renovation

  • Grazing Management

  • Grazing Behavior

  • Grazing Behavior

  • Selective Grazers/Defecators

  • Continuous Grazing

  • Rotational GrazingRotating horses through smaller pasture enclosures when weather and growth good

    Utilizing sacrifice area to avoid wear and tear of pastures

    Inclement weather: rain, snow, drought

    Poor growth: plant heights < 3 inches

    Recommended density > 1 acre/horse

  • What is a Sacrifice Area?Area: 300 ft2/horseWell drainedAll weather footingHorses allowed free access to shelter, water, and hay

  • When do I use a Sacrifice Area?Pastures overgrazedPastures too wetPastures being renovatedFertilizationLimeHerbicide applicationDrought conditions

  • Rotational Grazing Shelter

    Water

    Gate

    Sacrifice lot

    Pasture

  • Rotational Grazing Example

  • Equine Rotational Grazing Demonstration Site

  • Equine Rotational Grazing DemonstrationSite

  • Mud Management

  • Mud ManagementHeavy use areas: gates, waterers, run-ins

    Mud increases the risk of foot and skin problems, and parasites ingestion

    Identify and fix drainage problemsGrade surfacesInstall guttersConstruct heavy use pads

  • Mud Management

  • Heavy Use Pad InstallationExcavated soilInstalled layers

  • Heavy Use Pad InstallationLaneway and Sacrifice Lot Heavy Use Pad

  • Heavy Use Pad Example

  • EquipmentTractor/Skid LoaderAttachments: front end loader, mower, harrow, spreaders, snow plow, hay spear

    All-terrain 4-wheel drive vehicle

    Utility Trailer

    Fence Equipment post-hole digger, post pounder (t-posts), hand tools

  • ConclusionsPasture good source of nutrition and exercise

    Make pasture system decisions that work best for you and your operation

    Optimize use of pasture for nutrition by using best management practices

    Lime and fertilizer should be spread according to soil test report. The analysis will tell you want nutrients you need to apply in order to maintain top agronomic production. Proper seedbed preparation is important as well, especially for a renovation through conventional tillage. A proper seedbed needs to be disked and firmed. Proper timing for seeding is important as well. Spring seedings that are performed too late typically see competition from other forage as well as weeds and run into the dry times of the year. Fall seedings that are performed too late typically have problems with frost damage or winter kill. Certified seed should be used when planting forages. This guarantees that the seed is pure and does not contain a lot of weed seeds. When using a no-till seeding method it is important to control the competition from other forages and weeds so that the new seedlings have an opportunity to establish without the stress of shading, water, etc. If legumes are being introduced into a pasture system where there has not been a history of legumes, the seed should be inoculated. The inoculation will help the legumes establish in the pasture. Late summer seedings allow for the forages to get established before a killing frost and benefit from fall moisture. Early spring seedings are completed after killing frosts, during periods of adequate moisture, and before competition from summer annuals. Frost seeding is when seed is broadcast onto the soil surface and the heaving action from the soil freezing and thawing works the seed into the soil, establishing the desired seed-to-soil contact.July 2007 - Secured a 3-yr $75,000 CIG Grant from NRCS5.5 acres Began in 2006August 2008 installed heavy use pad and lanewayExcavate 13 inchesFilter cloth6 of #2 stone compacted3 of CR64 of bluestone heavy use pad ($12,900)

    EquipmentEquipment needs vary according to the size of your property, the number of horses, the amount of pasture you have and the other types of farm tasks you need to do. Four types: lawn, compact, utility, farm

    Tractor should have a power take-off or PTO, a three point hitch, and rear hydraulics

    Front end loader, mowers, harrows, spreaders, snow plowBetter for lawn work (plowing, baling, raking, planting)Skid Loader (alternative)Backhoe, brush cutter, post-hole digger, manure fork, tiller, trencher, hay spearThe skid loader, or skid steer vehicle, has replaced the tractor for many commercial, agricultural and landscaping applications. An excellent machine for everything from cleaning out barns to excavating, the skid loader can be equipped with a variety of implements, including backhoe, brush cutter, post hole digger, manure forks, tiller, trencher, hay spear and even tank-like tracks. Because of its narrow width, tight turning radius and quick agility, a skid loader is ideal for working in tight areas. But for lawn mowing and general field work a tractor is more usefulAll-terrain 4-wheel drive vehicleIf you already own or are thinking of purchasing an all-terrain vehicle (ATV) you may be surprised to learn how many attachments are available for it. Snow plows and self-powered mowers, brush cutters, seeders, plows and tillers are all available for pushing or towing with an ATV. Truck/trailerManure spreader:A small, ground-driven manure spreader is a wonderful implement to have. Use it, pulled by your riding lawn mower (or other 4WD small vehicle), to spread your composted horse manure on pastures in the late spring and early fall. There are many varieties of manure spreaders and you may need to shop around a bit to find the perfect one for your farm. Just be sure it is adapted for horse manure and not cow manure! Cow manure is softer and more pie shaped which often makes a difference in how the tines in the spreader are structured. For small operations the ground-driven version is best. Be sure the spreader is a size your pulling vehicle can handle and that its not too big or long to maneuver around your pasture areas and into corners. Stay away from manure spreaders with wooden sides or bottoms as these can rot out quickly. Utility trailer:A small utility trailer can come in quite handy. Get one that can be pulled by your riding lawn mower. Use it to haul hay bales to different locations, water to the back of the property, fencing materials and tools, trees to be plantedeven garbage cans to the end of the driveway (often a long haul if you live in a rural area). Fence Equipment:The type of fencing equipment youll need will depend on the type of fencing and posts you use. If you arent lucky enough to have access to a tractor with an auger, fencing can be installed with hand tools including a post-hole digger, a tamping rod, a post pounder (for metal t-posts) and a come-along (for stretching wire fencing). Ideally, fence your pastures into smaller portions using temporary fencing (electric tape or hot wire usually works best) and use your horses as lawn mowers to intensively graze the first portion. Once horses have grazed the grass down to about three inches, move them on to the next section and then mow and harrow the area the horses just grazed. Harrow:Used for spreading manure piles in pastures. Spreading helps break up manure so plants can utilize the nutrients. If you have an arena, harrows can also be used to smooth arena surfaces. A wide variety of harrows can be purchased from farm and tractor supply stores or catalogues, or you can look in the back of horse magazines. A basic harrow can even be made with a piece of chain-link fence fastened between two boards. Or get really creative by using an old metal bedspring or metal gate. For any of these homemade options you may need some extra weight two old tires tied down will work well.Mower:Used several times a year is an important part of good pasture management and will promote the growth of the grass you want and will rid pastures of the weeds you dont. If you only have a couple acres of pasture (about two acres or less) you may be able to get by with a regular lawn mower on foot. Youll obviously want a mulching mower since you dont want to collect all those grass clippings. Be sure to set your mower as high as it will go.Riding Lawn Mower: If you have more than a couple of acres, a riding lawn mower (or garden tractor) can be a great piece of equipment to have. They are much more maneuverable than a large tractor and if you get one that is 16 to 18 horsepower you can use it to pull other farm equipment like a harrow or manure spreader (described below). Look for a sturdy, riding mower with a mulching mower deck that can be adjusted at least 4 inches high.Wheelbarrow:When choosing a wheelbarrow, look for one that will be easy to dump (especially important if you have back problems). That usually means depending on how tall you are a long handle (so you dont have to bend over). Consider the size an extra big wheelbarrow will clean several stalls and paddocks before it gets full, but it may get very, very heavy in the process. I prefer a smaller sized one that is easier to dump as our compost bins are close by and easy to dump into. Next look at ease of maneuverability, an important consideration if theres a lip or board in front of the stall or any tight spots. If you need to lift versus dump into your compost pile you may want to consider something lightweight and not too big, such as a manure bucket with a cart. There are several different designs around for these.