pasticceria internazionale

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GELATOAND PASTRY RECIPES FOR ANY SEASON

SAVOURY SUGGESTIONS WITH AN ITALIAN TOUCH

COFFEE AND CUISINE

TECHNOLOGY AND PRODUCT NEWS

issue seventeen-2010

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EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Livia ChiriottiSENIOR EDITOR

Emilia Coccolo ChiriottiNEWS EDITORS

Cristina QuagliaMilena Novarino Monica Onnis

ASSISTANT EDITOR

Chiara CombaTRANSLATIONS

Alexander Martin MARKETING EDITOR

Monica PagliardiADVERTISING DIRECTOR

Luigi Voglino [email protected] ART DIRECTOR

Studio Grafico ImpaginaPRINTED BY

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Pasticceria Internazionale World Wide Editionis happily published in Italy by Chiriotti Editori

Copyright © 2010 by Chiriotti Editori All rights reserved

No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior written permission

from the publishing house

Supplement of “Pasticceria Internazionale” n. 229 May 2010

ON OUR COVER

Mojito Gelato CocktailEmanuele Saracino

Pasticceria Internazionale World Wide Edition 10064 Pinerolo (Torino)

Viale della Rimembranza 60 tel. +39 0121 393127 - fax +39 0121 794480

[email protected]

In this issueA question of numbers

Identità LondonReturns with a more international taste

Waiting for the WPTC in Phoenix

Gelato time

In praise of simplicity

Amaré

Recipes from the Ifse

Coffee as a cooking ingredient

World Pastry Cup 2011 in Lyon

A step back in time al Bicerin

SUBSCRIBE ON-L INE

www.pasticceriainternazionale.com

NewsA custom-tailored facility

Sustainable production

Sweet Sicilian heritage

Expos and events in Italy

2010 Ice Art World Championship

The excellence “à la française”

The Italian Gelato Championship

A prestigious decoration

Junior World Confectionery Championship at Sigep 2011

Italian summer at the 16th LuxardoGrand Prix

A new food grade silicone mould

A sweet jewel

The recipe to leaven up your business

THE BRAND NEW WEBSITE

2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 172

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Ever since adolescence, Di Carlo’s CV hasbeen a continual training ground. Class of1974, he was basically born in a laboratory:his parents owned a pasticceria in Rome,which was sold at the start of 2000. And so,after classes, workshops and competitions,

Leo, a populariser by nature, with a healthysense of irony and humour, decided to dedi-cate himself to consulting, which was basednot only on his knowledge of shop life, butalso on time dedicated to study, reading, tra-vel, experimentation, and a comparison bet-

ween Italian colleagues and foreign ones.This requires time, making it difficult to runa workshop effectively. This is the basicchoice that distinguishes Leonardo, who hasan impressive past with numerous significanttitles to his name, such as third place at the

A QUESTION OF NUMBERSThe mathematical science of confectionery has been around forcenturies, as can be seen by Leonardo Di Carlo’s daily work, during which he listens to colleagues and works hard to encodeevery method, ingredient, and request

2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 17 3

Coupe du Monde of Lyons in 2001, duringwhich he also won the prize for best chocolatedessert, and 1st place at the UIPGC WorldChampionship 2004.

Through direct consulting and trainingcourses, are you able to measure yourselfagainst many colleagues: what do you feelon a professional level? Most of all, that the pastry chef wants increa-singly to become a culturally prepared profes-sional with regards ingredients, in-depthknowledge of raw materials, and recipe proce-dures. In short, he wants more than just theusual recipe; he wants technical knowledge too.

Tell us of the most common questions.Simplicity, rationality and goodness: most col-leagues require these three things to be ableto take on the logistical organisation of the wor-kshop, demotivated staff, poor technical kno-wledge of the product, all geared towardsobtaining simple and good products that areeasy and fast to make for all workers.

What weaknesses do you come acrossmost?The young, with their enthusiasm for every-thing related to aesthetics, tend to neglect thebasics, which are a key aspect if you want todevelop as a professional. Never let things goto your head and always seek to learn, nomatter how old you are. Knowing how to makea good sponge cake or pastry is much moreimportant that the beautiful artistic presenta-tion of a dish or cake.

What are your most frequent rewards?Feedback is almost always positive and usuallycustomers call me back after a few days to tellme what happened after the consultation. Thebest thing they can tell me is that we hit thebull’s-eye and especially that the products pre-sented were appreciated by the customers.

Do you believe in confectionery as ascience, an idea already known in the1800s?Confectionery is based on numbers and per-centages. I know there is a rule for every-thing, and that is why I am looking for them.It is important to know the end sweetness ofa recipe, to understand its feasibility, the per-

centage of fat, eggs, yeast... everything mustbe weighed out at the start. Just reading arecipe you get an intuitive feel if it will turn outbalanced, but you must know how to do it.After all, the simpler the recipe the more theproduct will be sold.

So you develop the concept of recipeswhile clearing the myth of secret formu-las, right?The recipe is secondary and is not the mainpart of the consultancy (you can email it). I callthem technical cards because I list all detailssuch as cooking, depending on the client'soven, average weights, duration, packaging,storage... For me the recipe is worth nothingwhen compared to the transmission of kno-wledge and the motivation of staff.

Regardless of international trends, how doyou see the future of the sector?I am a positive thinker, although right now weneed a good dose of extra optimism. I believethat those who invest in quality raw materialsand keeping up to date, in order to offer qua-lity and original products, through testing andappropriate laboratory organization, will comeout a winner. Those who seek to save, whileoffering a poor display, lacking any ability to ge-nerate the impulse buy, are destined to sufferbecause the clientele will not keep an artisancompany alive on price alone.

Looking ahead, what are the techniquesused little today that will be able to makea difference?Surely rationalization in production, or beingable to make a versatile semi-finished product.For example: I study a baked dough that I willcombine with different types of fillings or top-pings of different tastes. Storing it in the besthygienic conditions, helped by the technologyof the cold chain, I can work quietly, offering awide range of products and have time to expe-riment with new ones.

Will the future of the sector see increasingsynergy between sweet, cooking, and ge-lato: what do you envisage and how doyou interpret this?Very good synergy, but we must never impro-vise. Each combination requires a previousstudy, whereby it is tested and then offered to


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customers, providing the right knowledge tograsp even the most delicate of details.

With recipes, are you more for traditionor for a fusion of foreign cultures?Usually my recipes contain a lot of traditionand, especially when I have to present asweet abroad, I let all my Italian culturecome out.But I do not disdain a foreign recipe; I mightmodify it with more Italian tastes, but I amhappy to make cakes of other nations in myclasses: it is like giving bits of culture fromanother country to people who can not tra-vel or can only take these recipes frombooks.

What does understanding a recipe andmaking it your own mean for you?Having my recipe understood is one of myprimary objectives. Only once it is under-stood can it be worked on. My mission is toconvey knowledge, so every new recipe ofmine becomes that of my colleagues if I am

able to adapt it to their way of working.“The true essence of knowledge, once youhave it, is to convey it": Confucius and I wereof like mind!

What philosophy are your restaurant

desserts based on?Since I started as a pastry chef, I like to seewhat I can take from confectionery andplace on a plate, without falling into the easymistake of using a monoportion with theusual sauce. In terms of flavours and consi-stency it is important that there are at leastthree contrasts. For me the plate is a canvason which the chef, like the painter, applieshis imagination. I can not deny that many in-spirations come to me while travelling, loo-king at or tasting new products.

What is the difference between lab andkitchen?Catering gives a more open vision: the cookhas different ingredients such as oil, vinegarand olives, which in confectionery are nor-mally used for savoury products. Not only interms of ingredients, but also with regardspresentation, plated desserts offers morepossibilities. For example, for some of thedesserts I use a wall tile instead of a plate,an airtight jar for a glassed sweet, a plate of

Strawberry fresh mint & pine nut compotewater g 100

caster sugar g 250strawberries g 650

fresh mint g 12pine nuts g 60

lemon juice g 25Cook sugar with water at 140°C, add sliced strawberries and fresh mintleavers, stir delicately and allo to cook for approx. 10-15 minutes. Thenadd pine nuts and lemon juice. Keep in the refrigerator in a jam jar or in avacuum-sealed container.

Vanilla & caramel saucecaster sugar g 250

water g 200vanilla bean no. 1/2

Dry cook the sugar a bit at a time, add the vanilla bean and gradually addboiling water. Put back on the stove and allow to reduce to the desiredconsistency. Keep in an airtight container.

Light panna cottafresh full fat milk g 200

vanilla bean no. 1fresh single cream 35% g 500

caster sugar g 85gelatine g 18

semi whipped cream g 250Put gelatine into cold water. Heat single cream with sugar, milk and vanillabean. add gelatine and allow to melt. At the end add semi-whipped cream.Use and refrigerate.

Lemon crunchMuscovado sugar g 125

ground toasted hazelnuts g 125finely grated lemon zest g 8

butter g 125flour g 125

Combine all ingredients. Roll mixture between two sheets of grease proofpaper. The mixture should be 3 mm thick. Bake at 150°C until dark brown.Allow to cool, then place into a chopper and chop. Keep in an airtightcontainer in a dry place.

AssemblyPour a layer of strawberry, fresh mint and pine nut compote into a glass,top with lemon crunch to one side. Fill with light panna cotta and vanillacaramel sauce. Decorate with a thin layer of dark chocolate and a dehy-drated strawberry.

PANNA COTTA MY WAY

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TRAS...

Hot whiskey with orange honeyorange honey g 150

whiskey g 450Combine both ingredients and heat to 70°C, pour immediately into aglass.

Sbrisolona (crumbly cake)flour g 400

stone-ground maize cake flour g 100

caster sugar g 300butter g 350

finely chopped almonds g 300egg yolks no. 4

baking powder g 3grated lemon zest g 6

vanilla bean no. 1table salt g 2

Combine all ingredients. The mixture should not be consistent in texture.Shape into rolls and freeze. Place in a chopper and chop evenly. Spreadon steel moulds (8 cm. diametro), press gently and bake at 150°C (openvalve) until golden brown.

Light chantilly cream with cacao beans and vanillacacao beans g 125

fresh cream 35% g 550vanilla bean no. 1

gelatine g 7Ivoire chocolate g 375

Heat cacao beans in the oven at 150°-160°C for 10 minutes. Bring milkand vanilla bean to a boil, then incorporate the hot cacao beans and allowto infuse for approx. 10 minutes. Sieve and check the weight of the initialmilk, add gelatine and pour slowly onto partially melted chocolate. Mixwith a flexible spatula until mixture becomes shiny and smooth. Place in arefrigerator at +4°C. The next day place into a planetary mixer and whipgently with mixing beaters.

Espresso coffee creamfresh full fat milk g 1.000espresso coffee g 620

fresh cream 35% g 600low fat milk powder g 190

dextrose g 420invert sugar g 55

caster g 190gelato stabilizer g 18

Mix and heat milk espresso coffee, cream, milk powder and dextrose.When at 40°C add remaining ingredients and cook to 85°C. Cool quic-kly to +4°C and place in a refrigerator for 6-12. Place in the gelato maker,then pour into steel moulds till 2 cm thick. Allow to harden in a blast chil-ler. Cut into 2.5x7.5 cm tectangles, insert the stick and put back in theblast chiller. Melt the dark chocolate & salted peanut coating, then coat thegelato completely. Keep at -18°C.

Leonardo Di Carlo

www.leonardodicarlo.com

SBRISOLONA is a typical cake from North Italy,

made of sugar and almonds as basic ingredients. The

name describes its consistency hard and crumbly.

of refractory stone that keeps the heat, andother containers with special shapes.

What are your favourite ingredients?First of all olive oil, which I often use insteadof butter. I also make an olive-oil based shortpastry, adopting special practices such aspreparing the dough between two sheets ofbaking paper, given that its consistencymakes it much harder to work than a tradi-tional pastry. Other ingredients that I like aredried fruit (hazelnuts, almonds) and che-stnuts. In general I prefer Italian ingredients,but with a very personal touch.

What are the biggest problems a cheffaces in preparing a dessert?Time, which is always missing, and alsospace, which is usually insufficient.

Do you want to give any advice?Use high quality raw materials. If you have abasic knowledge and good raw materialsyou can achieve whatever you want. Clearlyyou also need to take care over presenta-tion; for some this may come naturally, forothers it is more difficult.

Can you give us a final suggestion.I have no secret. My strength is that I lovewhat I do. Coming back to Confucius: “If youlove what you do, it will never be work”.

Livia Chiriotti

“Beauty passes but taste remains,which is what makes

the customer come back for more”


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Duciezio is the Sicilian confectionery and gelato Association pre-sided over by journalist and photographer Salvatore Farina, andsupported by a group of well known local pastry chefs. With theaim to promote the historical and cultural heritage of the region,they organized in April the first edition of Mostra del Dolce Sici-liano (Sicilian Sweet Expo) in Randazzo, near Etna volcano, sothat people could discover traditional sweets coming from allover the island.A competition among students took place too, and participantshad to give their own interpretation of the typical Sicilian Cas-sata. A jury chaired by Milena Novarino (“Pasticceria Internazio-nale”) and composed by pastry chefs – Isidoro Bonarrigo, LucaCaviezel, Nuccio Daidone, Santi Palazzolo, Saretto Pappa-lardo and Salvatore Scarpulla – declared Claudio Anzolone ofSan Rocco institute, Caltanissetta, the winner.During the event, the Pupaccena Prize (Pupaccena are traditionalfigures of men and women made of sugar for the Day of theDead, representing relatives who have passed away) was awar-ded to the four people that most helped to promotethe identity, culture and image of Sicily: Luca Ca-viezel, for his studies about gelato science andtecnology; Giovanni Sollima, cellist and musiccomposer; Francesco Condorelli, in memory forhis nougat, and Don Santino Spartà, journalist.

Placed today on a surface of 8,000 square meters in Collegno, near To-rino, Quattrer was founded 50 years ago. The company is involved in thedesign, making and start up of pastry and gelato shops, restaurants andcafés not only in Italy, ensuring timely deliveries and skillful technical assi-stance. The facility houses processing and assembling rooms, trainingrooms for professional classes (gelato and cafeteria) a showroom, a mee-ting room and a technical office working with CAD design systems. Quattrer supplies technical and legal support to clients and to their archi-tects, and highly functional designs and custom-made furniture solutionsaccording to their requests. The range of activites goes from the simplesupply of a bar unit and seats, up to complete all-inclusive solutions.Environmental respect has been confirmed throughout the decades by thecommitment to chose products and production processes which couldoffer better performances while saving water and energy at the sametime, thus minimizing the environmental footprint. For the same purposethe company works exclusively with the best refrigeration componentssuppliers. www.quattrer-arredamenti.it

A CUSTOM-TAILORED FACILITY

Trittico® Bio is the innovative machine by Bravo for pro-

fessionals choosing natural production in respect of the

principles of environmental sustainability. Trittico® Bio is

the only certified machine producing gelato and pastry

from fresh raw milk, therefore not depleted by industrial

pasteurisation and cheaper. At the end of the pasteurisa-

tion process the machine prints the data, which can be

useful for controls. www.bravo.it

SUSTAINABLE PRODUCTION

SWEET SICILIAN HERITAGE

650 ml Sprays

D22BWhite

Caramel

Chocolate

D22C

D22N D23BWhite

D23JYellow

D23RRed

D23VGreen

210 ml Sprays

650 ml Spray

405 ml Sprays

Net 50 gr

270 ml Spray

650 ml Spray

1000 ml Spray

D01.1Colourless Varnish D157A

BronzeD156ASilver

D155AGold

D44.122 caratsReal GoldSprinkles

D115.1Cooler

D115A1Cooler

Varnishes with Metallic Effects


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Identità London is back stronger than ever and concentrates on amore international assembly of the world’s most fascinating chefs. Thefocus of the 2010 congress – taking place in Vinopolis, Southbank,7th and 8th June – is themed around The Luxury of Simplicity, whichcenters on creatively being driven from the ingredient and its seaso-nality. It showcases the creation of dishes using less celebrated pro-duce that require the intuition and creativity of the chefs, as well astheir skill and artistry, to elevate the flavours of each component in-gredient. This reflects the international trend towards more simple andnatural cuisines, with a growing emphasis on specific raw foods.The list of international chefs includes Daniel Patterson (Coi, SanFrancisco), Wylie Dufresne (WD50, New York), Alex Stupak (WD50,New York), David Chang (Momofuku, New York), Alvin Leung (BoInnovation, Hong Kong), Alexandre Gauthier (La Grenouillere, Mon-treuil-sur-Mer, France), Heinz Beck (Apsley, London & La Pergola,Rome). Among the British chefs there are Ashley Palmer-Watts (TheFat Duck, Bray), Jason Atherton (Maze, London).

handfuls of spinach no. 4salt and freshly

ground black pepper a.r.basil, picked g 150

parsley, picked g 150rosemary leaves g 30

sage leaves g 30sea salt g 750

plain flour g 750egg whites

(around 6-8 eggs) g 150yolk for brushing no. 1

sea bass fillets no. 4(each about g 200, of a consistent thickness, i.e. with no thinner tail parts)

knobs of butter no. 2tablespoon of olive oil no. 1

The Italian group is composed by Massimo Bottura (Osteria France-scana, Modena), Gennaro Esposito (Torre del Saracino, Naples), Da-

vide Scabin (Combal Zero, Torino), Niko Romito (Reale, L’Aquila),Andrea Berton (Trussardi alla Scala, Milano), Enrico and Roberto

Cerea (Da Vittorio, Bergamo).Founder and Italian food editor, Paolo Marchi said - who this year willbe co-hosting with Tom Parker Bowles, “After the astounding suc-cess of Identità London 2009 – the first Identità venture outside Italy– I’m delighted that chefs from New York to Hong Kong are joiningus to celebrate this year’s theme. This of course is underpinned bythe core spirit of the congress, as an ambassadorial platform to pro-mote the depth and diversity of Italian cuisine beyond its associationwith pizza and pasta”. As well as the main stage events, the venuealso exhibits a selection of specialist artisan producers, showcasingthe very best in Italian produce, wines and spirits.The following recipes were presented during the 2009 edition ofIdentità London. www.identitalondon.com

IDENTITÀ LONDONRETURNS WITH A MORE INTERNATIONAL TASTE

SEA BASS IN SEA SALT AND HERBS


For the balsamic dressingtablespoons of good

balsamic vinegar no. 8teaspoon of honey no. 1

tablespoon of sugar no. 1juice of 1/2 lemon

tablespoon of olive oil no. 1drops of

Worcestershire Sauce no. 2

1 Preheat the oven as high as it will go.

2 Blanch the spinach leaves in boiling salted water for the briefest time –5-10 seconds only – then drain and squeeze out the excess water.

3 Mix the herbs together. Put the sea salt into a food processor and crackit a little, then add the herbs and blitz until they are very finely chopped.

4 If you have a Magimix put the flour, egg whites, and the salt and herbmixture into it, and reduce to a green dough. Otherwise, mix the flour andthe salt and herb mixture well in a mixing bowl, then transfer to a cleanwork surface, pile up like a small mountain and make a hole in the middle.Beat the egg white lightly in a bowl, then pour it into the hole in the flour.Put in your hand and slowly and gently turn it, working in a little of theflour mix at a time, so that the egg white is absorbed gradually and formsa dough.

5 Knead the dough for 3-4 minutes. If it feels too hard as you work it, wetyour hands, which should help to loosen it. The dough needs to be firmand elastic enough to enclose the fish without breaking but not too loose,otherwise when it cooks it will release too much moisture, and the fishwon’t cook properly. Wrap the dough in cling film and keep to one side.

6 Make the balsamic dressing: put the balsamic vinegar in a bowl, add thehoney and sugar, and leave in a warm place (but not on the hob), so thatthe honey and sugar can dissolve into the vinegar. When they have, add

the lemon juice, olive oil and Worcestershire sauce. Taste and, if you thinkit is too sharp, add a little more sugar to taste. Keep to one side.

7 Roll the dough out about 3 mm thick. You need to cut this into 8 roughsquares of dough – 4 to go beneath the fillets (make these about 2 cm big-ger all round than the fish) and another 4 to go over the top of each filletto enclose them completely (these top squares will need to be about 3 cmbigger all round than the fish). Each fillet will be slightly different, so usethem as a guide when you are cutting out your dough.

8 Lay out the four squares of dough that will go underneath the fish andplace a fillet on top of each, skin side facing upwards then brush the edgeswith egg wash and put the top square on top. Seal tightly and trim theedges neatly. Make sure there are no holes in the dough; if there are any,take a piece of the dough trimmings, wet it with water and use it to patchthe hole. Brush with more egg yolk.

9 Line a flat ovenproof tray with baking paper, put the sea bass ‘parcels’on it and place in the preheated oven. The length of cooking time will de-pend entirely on the thickness of the fish, so start testing after about 7 mi-nutes (but you might need up to 10 minutes or so more). Take one of thesea bass out – the crust will now be golden and hard – and, with a sharpknife, cut around three sides, so you can lift up the crust like a lid, andcheck the fish inside. Press your finger against the fillet: if it is soft, then itis ready; if the flesh of the fish is resistant, then replace your ‘lid’ and putback in the oven. Test again after a couple of minutes or so.

10 When the sea bass is ready, take it out of the oven and leave it in itscrust, while you warm up the spinach in a saucepan with the butter andthe olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Arrange in the middle of yourplates.

11 With a knife, cut the crusts all the way round and lift off the tops. Witha spatula, lift out the fish and put on top of the spinach. Finish with the bal-samic dressing and serve.

Giorgio LocatelliLocanda Locatelli, London

www.locandalocatelli.com


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PRIPRIOCA SCENTED MILK PUDDINGWITH LIME RAVIOLI AND OURO BANANA

10 servesPriprioca caramel

sugar g 320water ml 80

priprioca essence ml 20Make a caramel with the sugar at approximately 142ºC. Add the waterand the priprioca essence.

Priprioca puddingpasteurized egg yolk g 80

sugar g 60milk cream ml 250

milk ml 250sheets of gelatin no. 2

Warm the milk and cream together (not boiling). Whisk the yolks withsugar until they are pale yellow. Hydrate the sheets of gelatin and dis-solve them in the milk previously heated. Mix the milk with the yolks, gen-tly, and strain. Cover the bottom of a 30 ml spherical silicon form withcaramel. Put the liquid over the caramel and bake it in the steam oven, at90°C from 10 to 12 minutes.

Custard milk ml 200

wheat flour g 8sugar g 40

pasteurized egg yolks g 40Whisk the egg yolks, sugar and flour in a bowl. Boil the milk. Add themilk to the yolks slowly while stirring, to temper the eggs. Strain the mix-ture and cook it on low heat, stirring constantly for about 5 minutes. Tran-sfer it from the heat to a bowl and cool it in an ice bain-marie. Cover thecream with a plastic film, placing it against the surface, so it won't forma crust.

Lemon and banana ouro raviolis sugar g 175water ml 175

lemon juice ml 100agar agar g 2

gelatine g 20banana ouro finely

sliced in ringsBoil all the ingredients, with the exception of gelatine and banana. Add thehydrated gelatine. Put the gelatine on a tray, with a thickness of approxi-mately 2 mm. Cut the gelatines with a round ring of 5 cm in diameter.

Mount the raviolis following the sequence a layer of gelatine a drop of custard

3 thin bananas another layer of gelatine

Sugar syrup to the candied lemon zestsugar g 500 water ml 500

Boil the ingredients to dissolve the sugar.

White kikurage mushroomswhite kikurage

mushrooms no.1 unitRehydrate the mushrooms in water for a day. Cook in 500 ml of water andadd another 500 g of sugar.

Candied julienne lemon zest Blanch the lemon zests quickly in boiling water and cool it in icy water. Repeatthis procedure 3 times. Heat the sugar syrup and add the blanched zests.

PlatingWith the help of a sac-à-poche, finish the raviolis with a drop of custardand 2 lemon zests. Paint the kikurages with some gold powder, using abrush.In a slate of 25x10 cm, arrange the pudding on the left side. Put the ra-violi in the center and place a kikurage on the other side. Finish with somepriprioca caramel.

Alex AtalaDOM, São Paulo, Brazil

www.domrestaurante.com.br

PRIPRIOCA is a plant found in the Brazilian rainforest. Its essential oils have been used by indigenous people for manycenturies and recently by the cosmetic industry. Atala has introduced it in gastronomy after researches, in order to stimu-late local farmers and increase the selection of available wild food.

BANANA OURO is a Brazilian variety of the tropical fruit, which is very small (max 10 cm) and sweet. It has acylindrical shape and a golden yellow skin.

KIKURAGE MUSHROOMS grow on trees in wet tropical climates. The word kikurage means “wooden ear”,which comes from the shape of the mushroom, and also “wooden jellyfish”, because of its texture. It is highly appreciatedin Japan. Rich of vitamins, it is known for “cleansing” the body, preventing some diseases (high blood pressure, hardeningof the arteries, ulcers, etc.) and for skin care treatments.

ApprovedEvent

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CARAMELIA CHOCOLATE MOUSSE

Basic custarddouble cream g 150

milk g 150yolk g 60

sugar g 30Boil milk and cream in a pan. Put sugar and yolk in a bowl, and whisk‘till the sugar dissolves. Pour the boiling milk mix on the yolks and putit aside.

Chocolate moussebasic custard g 355

Caramelia chocolate 34% g 660leaves of gelatine no. 5

whipped cream g 530Take the warm basic custard and dissolve the softened gelatine in it. Meltthe chocolate on a water bath.Gently pour the custard on the chocolate and emulsify with a hand blender.When the mix reaches 40°-45°C, add the semi whipped cream and pipein the mould. Press the soft centre in the middle and make sure that thebase is sealed. Freeze in the blast chiller.

Soft centrewater g 400

milk g 350trimoline g 180

chocolate 70% g 125cocoa powder g 100

black raspberry liquor g 100Put milk, water and trimoline in a pan and bring to a boil. Pour it on topof the chocolate and cocoa powder mix till the chocolate is melted andpass it through the sieve. Add the liquor and freeze in the moulds.

Apricot pureeapricot puree kg 1

sugar g 75agar agar g 10

Bring the puree to a boil in a pan. Mix sugar and agar agar, pour it on thepuree whisking continuously. Bring back to a boil, put it on a tray andchill. Once set blitz in a thermo and store in a piping bag.

Sacher spongechocolate 70% g 750

butter g 500yolks g 360

whites g 550sugar g 300

dextrose g 250soft butter g 275

grounded almond g 100Melt chocolate to 33°C and mix butter and yolks. Make a meringue usingsugar and dextrose. Fold the meringue in the chocolate mix. Finally foldin the flour and almonds. Bake at 230°C for 5 to 7 minutes, dependingon the size of the mould.

Sacher glazewater g 100sugar g 100

chocolate 70% g 100Put sugar and water in a pan and bring to boil; then pour it on the cho-colate and blitz with a hand blender taking care not to incorporate moreair in it.

Chocolate sorbetmilk ml1.300

dextrose g 50atomised glucose g 50

dark chocolate 70% g 400milk chocolate 34% g 200

Put milk and dextrose and atomised glucose in a pan and bring to boil.Pour it on the chocolate and mix well. Let it chill, then freeze in the PacoJet and churn once frozen.

Chocolate spray for the mousseEqual quantity of dark chocolate 70% and cocoa butter. Melt togetherand put it in a gun and spray. Ideal temperature is 40°C.

Angela Hartnettwww.angelahartnett.co.uk

Photos Brambilla - Serrani

AGAR AGAR is a gelatinous substance derived from red algae, primarily Gelidium amansii, which is used as an in-gredient in desserts throughout Asia. It can be also used as a vegetarian gelatin substitute, a thickener for soups, in jel-lies, gelato and Japanese desserts such as anmitsu.


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The World Pastry Team Championship has been created by Carymax LCC to bringtogether the most talented pastry chefs in the world

Waiting for the WPTC IN PHOENIXThe World Pastry Forum and The 2010 Amoretti WorldPastry Team Championship will take place June 30through July 6 at the JW Marriott Desert Ridge Re-sort and Spa in Phoenix, AZ, USA.At the Forum (June 30 - July 4), students of the pa-stry arts can take demo or hands-on classes with renow-ned pastry chefs, including Nicholas Lodge, Stephane Glacier M.O.F.,Stéphane Tréand M.O.F., Ciril Hitz, Biagio Settepani, En Ming Hsu,Shirley Coriher, Jimmy MacMillan, Jean Marie Auboine, Donald Wres-sell, and David Funaro.

The 2010 Amoretti World Pastry Team Championship,which is presented in alternate (even-numbered) years,will take place July 5 and 6. It will feature eight teamscomprised of three pastry chefs each from Denmark,

Great Britain, Italy, Japan, Mexico, Singapore, SouthKorea and the United States. Principal sponsors for this

event, besides Amoretti are Godiva, Felchlin Chocolate, Guittard Cho-colates, Nielsen - Massey Vanillas, Swiss Chalet Fine Foods, Perni-gotti, Albert Uster Imports, Taylor, Spring, and many others.www.PastryChampionship.com

PRESENTING TEAM ITALYWith the tecnical support of team manager Iginio Massari, the supervision ofAccademia Maestri Pasticceri Italiani, the organization and media sponsorship ofCast Alimenti school and “Pasticceria Internazionale”, Team Italy is working hardfor the event. Its members are Diego Crosara (tasting), Davide Malizia (sugar)and Fabrizio Galla (chocolate).www.nazionaleitalianapasticceri.it


In 1980 he took a diploma at the pastry school of Cividale del Friuli. From 1981 to 1984he attended several specialization courses with important professionals in Italy and abroad,and then he worked for many years (1981-2007) in the pastry lab Al Portego in Valdagno,near Vicenza. In October 1992 he cooperated as a member of the Italian pastry-chefs teamfor the celebration of the 50th anniversary of America's discovery, in San Francisco, withGary Rulli. Since 2004 he has been a teacher at CastAlimenti school, Dolce & Salato, Ar-tedolce, and also at professional courses organized by local chef associations.From 1995 to 2000 he was a member of the Veneto Region Team; from 2000 to 2008he was the pastry chef of the Italian Chefs team.Since 2000 he has taken part to several international competitions, always obtaining goodresults. In 2004 he was awarded a gold medal at the European Championship in Stuttgart;in 2006 he won a silver medal at the Cuisine and Pastry Olympics in Erfurt, while in 2006he got a gold medal and the title of World Champion for pastry at the Culinary World Cupin Luxembourg. www.diegocrosara.it

Diego Crosara

Davide MaliziaBorn in Rome but of Sicilian origins, he attended the Artusi hotel and catering school inRome, taking a full marks diploma. Meanwhile his passion for artistic sugar and pastrygrew and he decides to develop it at top level starting to work in prestigious hotels of thecity, like Exsedra and Grand Hotel St. Regis. His training started through professionalschools in Italy and abroad. In 2005 he won the World Championship in Luxembourg with4 gold medals and a special mention for the highest score obtained in the artistic cate-gory; in 2008 he won the International Championship in Stuttgart (International CookingCompetition Intergastra), with 6 gold medals for the highest score in artistic categoryand the absolute prize at Culinary Trophy. In 2008 he won the only Italian gold medal atthe Erfurt Olympics in the artistic pastry category. www.davidemalizia.com

After several experiences in pastry shops and restaurants in Italy, including the onemanaged by his family, he opened his own pastry lab specialized in the production ofplated desserts and chocolate. He constantly increases his experience in the sector,in particular in chocolate, thanks to contacts with the most important Italian pastry-chefs urging him to participate to national and international competitions. He obtai-ned good results, such as the second place at the World Chocolate Masters in Paris,2005. Furthermore, he was a member of the Italian team which came out third at theCoupe du Monde de la Pâtisserie in Lyon, in January 2007. He's member of theAMPI, Accademia Maestri Pasticceri Italiani. www.fabriziogalla.it

Fabrizio Galla


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TEAM ITALY THANKS ITS SPONSORS

Biagio SettepaniTeam Manager & Judge

Biagio Settepani began his career at the ageof 13 in a small pastry store in Brooklyn,New York, spending his next few years le-arning as much as he could. At the age of21 he took over the reins of Bruno Bakery-café in New York. Since then his dedicationto excellence has brought him around theworld in serch of knowledge. He has com-peted nationally and internationally for over a

decade, winning several medals and nume-rous accolades. He partecipated severaltimes to the NPTC, in Beaver Creek andLas Vegas, and he is now a teacher of theWorld Pastry Forum.In 2001 he became a CMB (Certified Ma-ster Baker). Now he runs two pastry shopsin Staten Island and one in Manhattan, NewYork, with his family. He shares his kno-wledge by teaching at various schools to thenew generations of pastry chefs. He is alsoa protagonist in the book “Sweet Sensationsof Sicily”, by Salvatore Farina. As the mostknown Italian professional in the States, heis now the President and coach of TeamItaly. www.brunobakery.com

Iginio MassariTeam Manager

He is the most popular Italian confectioner inthe world. He is the owner of the Veneto pa-stry store in Brescia and he was the first Ita-lian to be admitted in Relais DessertsInternational association.Trainer and president of the Italian team who

won the World Pastry Cup in Lyon in 1997and trainer of the Pastry World ChampionsUIPGC 2004, founder of the AccademiaMaestri Pasticceri Italiani and of Cast Ali-menti school, he also owns the restaurantCarlo Magno in Collebeato (Brescia). Hewas proclaimed confectioner of the year1999-2000, pastry chef of the decade in2003 and won many awards thorough theyears. Consultant in the alimentary field, heis also the author of some professionalbooks. www.pasticceria-veneto.it


GELATO TIMEA DELICIOUS WAY TO WISH

YOU A WONDERFUL SUMMER,REMINDING YOU THAT GELATO

IS A TASTY AND COMPLETEFOOD ALL YEAR LONG

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Mojito is a long alcoholic drink that has the colour of the sun, crea-ted to quench your thirst in the shade of a palm tree; it should besipped to the rhythm of a Caribbean song. The drink comes from Cuba and its name comes from the wordvoodoo mojo, meaning spell. Mojito therefore means ‘a small spell’.The ingredients are mint, rum, brown sugar cane, lime and spar-kling water (or soda). It is served cold and has a pungent taste dueto the combination of fresh mint and the strong taste of rum. In theabsence of original limes, a small green lime will do. Many use cru-shed ice, but this tends to melt too quickly so I prefer cubes. Al-though the original recipe includes white rum, a better variant is darkrum, which is more fragrant and stronger on the palate.

To make this little spell even more delightful, I recommend a Mojitoflavoured gelato cocktail which can be served with the Mojito cock-tail itself. Presentation is crucial in creating interest, which is why Isuggest placing the gelato on a trasparent sugar disk, on top of thecocktail in the classic glass tumbler.Another possible presentation is to have two similar small glassesof different size, the smaller one being for the gelato.It is important to pay a lot of attention to the presentation of the trayin the display cabinet. Decorations made with slices of lime, browncane sugar and mint leaves can be enriched with sugar cup molds,suggesting the idea of the original cocktail to those who only wanta gelato.

MOJITO GELATOCOCKTAIL

water g 1.000cocktail base g 150

sugar g 230mint paste g 30

rum g 150acidifier g 10

lime juice g 50

Emanuele Saracinowww.saracinogelati.com

MOJITO BECOMES GELATOWHEN

pistachio preservechocolate and raspberry preserve

crunchy wafervanilla cream gelato

raspberry and wild strawberry gelatopistachio gelato

cream

AssemblyDistribute on the base of the cup the pistachio preserve and proceed withone layer of cream, raspberry and chocolate preserve, one layer of cream,crunchy wafer, and cover with the three balls of gelato. Finally garnish withcream, fresh fruit and soft fruit coulis.

Totuccio Di MarcoBar Ester, Bagheria

Photo Salvatore Farinawww.barester.it

VANILLA AND CHOCOLATE GELATO BISCUITCream semifreddo biscuit

cream g 1.000Sarfred* g 200

vanilla paste g 20Mix the Sarfred with the cream for 2 minutes, add the Ovoplus and beatthe lot. Lastly, add the vanilla paste and mix.

Chocolate semifreddo biscuitcream g 1.000

Sarfred* g 200Ovoplus* g 100

chocolate paste g 150Mix the Sarfred with the cream for 2 minutes, add the Ovoplus and beatthe lot. Lastly, add the chocolate paste and mix.

*Saracino products

AssemblyOn the base of the mould place the biscuit and combine the layer of cho-colate semifreddo with the vanilla one. Close with the biscuit and cool. De-mould, dunk into the fondant chocolate and then into the crushed cocoamacaroons. On the other side of the biscuit make chocolate decorations.

Emanuele Saracinowww.saracinogelati.com

BAHARIA GELATO CUP

CRUNCHY COLDGE

LATO


The next edition of MACEF AUTUMN, the international home show,will be held from 9 to 12 September in Milan. www.macef.itGelato, confectionery, chocolate and artisan food will be on stage atAGRO.GE.PA.CIOK. in Galatina, near Lecce, in October 9 - 12.www.agrogepaciok.itEUROCHOCOLATE PERUGIA, the international chocolate exhibition– www.eurochocolate.com –, will take place in Perugia in October,from 15 to 24, while CIOCOFANTASY, the first chocolate festival inGenova inspired by the popular novel and movie “The Wizard of Oz”,is scheduled in October 23 and 24, with the support of chocolatemaker Antonio Le Rose. PA.BO.GEL. is the international expo for bakery, confectionery, gelatomaking, etc., taking place in Rome, October 16 - 19. www.pabogel-expo.comTorino will host SALONE DEL GUSTO, the biennal event which payshomage to the world of food and wines, in October 21-25. In thesame days farmers, cooks, fishermen, academics, breeders, produ-cers, etc. from the five continents will meet on the occasion ofTERRA MADRE. www.salonedelgusto.com - www.terramadre.info

Milano will host AB.TECH. EXPO, – www.abtechexpo.it – the inter-national baking and technology exhibition for bakery, pastry and con-fectionery, October 23 - 27, while a few days later espresso coffeewill be in the spotlight at the 5th edition of the TRIESTESPRESSOexpo, from 28 to 30 October in Trie-ste. www.triestespresso.itThe 2010 edition of CIOCCOSHOW -La Magia del Cioccolato, the magicof chocolate, is back in November,from 17 to 21, in Bologna. www.cioc-coshow.itLongarone will host MIG, the interna-tional meeting for gelato makers, from28th November to 1st December(www.mostradelgelato.com). Gelato,together with confectionery and ba-kery production, will be on show atSIGEP in Rimini, from 22 to 26 Ja-nuary 2011 (www.sigep.it).


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EXPOS AND EVENTS IN ITALY

Ice carving activities and competitions have grown in popularity and since the 1988 CalgaryWinter Olympic Games, there has been the inclusion of Olympic Ice Art Championships as partof the cultural activities and Olympic Art Festivals. With participating teams from different coun-tries, these championships share the same objectives as the Olympic Winter Games. During the 2010 Vancouver Olympic Winter Games in Canada, the 2010 Ice Art World Cham-pionship took place in Richmond, British Columbia. The competition lasted two days and Usawon, followed by two Japanese teams. The member of the Italian team – Amelio Mazzella diRegnella and Fabio Momolo – came out fourth. The theme they chose was Hope or Dream, in-spired to the theory of Pangea (i.e. the unique supercontinent that existed about 250 millionyears ago, before the component continents were separated into their current configuration).The first day they were required to carve 12 ice blocks (1.5 tons) to obtain a monumental scul-pture, which represented “five eggs – they explained – as symbols of purity, beauty and hope,with five ice ‘children’ inside. Each of them represented one continent of the five Olympic rings,and they were all supported by a paper roll with the engraved map of the beginning of the world,where we all hope some day to return to live together in peace”. The second day teams had twohours of time to carve another sculpture inspired to their chosen theme.The 2010 edition was also an important meeeting for the ice carving associations from all overthe world, aiming at coming together in a unique federation. Their purpose is the official recogni-tion by the CIO (Comité International Olympique) in order to participate to the 2014 OlympicWinter Games in Sochi, Russia. www.icegallery.it

2010 ICE ART WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP

An ambassador of French culinary professions and exclusive gourmet products, Fauchon inaugurated in January a conceptstore and restaurant in Casablanca, Morocco, i.e. the first one in the North African area. Fauchon Paris - Le Café is placed inthe heart of Anfa's quarter, with the new graphical and architectural codes of the brand and the internal fittings by Costa Group.The pure Parisian-style 1.200 m2 shop includes a bakery-patisserie zone, with a counter for horizontal display standing out withits top in white corian and a golden perimetrical coating. In the back counter the products seems suspended thanks to specialshelves in polished embossed glass. Moreover, two refrigerated showcases for macaronshave been expressly designed, with a golden coating and the top in white corian. The wholezone is towered by a ceiling with irregular vaults. The atmosphere recreates the luxury of a je-weller’s shop, because of both the golden color and the way to display products. Fauchon’scolors appear in the self service and in the chocolate areas: furniture changes from black towhite, matching with the floors and ceilings; the refrigerated chocolate showcase made of fu-

chsia corian show pro-ducts in scenographicalcrystal drawers. The cafézone is carved in a silvermonobloc which seemsseparated from the self-service zone by a fuchsiaglass wall. The lounge, re-staurant and terrace canseat 126 people.www.costagroup.net

EXCELLENCE “À LA FRANÇAISE”

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Show-room - ClaSSroomS - offiCe - woodworkingQ.F.A. srl - VIA SPAGNA 4 - COLLEGNO (TO) - tel. +39.011.733.109 / 455.74.14 - [email protected]

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deSignrealiZaTionSTarT-up

Today our specific business is the design and manufacture of furniture for coffee-bars, restaurants, ice-cream parlors, pastry-shops. We supply technical and legal support to our clients and to their architects, and according to their requests we produce one or more highly functional designs, always looking out for a custom-made furniture solution. Our range of activity goes from the simple supply of a bar unit and seatings, up to complete all-inclusive solutions.

TeChnologiCal deVelopmenT - waTer and energy SaVing

VISIT OUR WEBSITE OR COME TO VISIT

coffee-bars, ice-cream parlors, pastry-shops, restaurants...in Italy and in all countries CEE

Made in italy

pagina giugno PASTICCERIA WORLD.indd 1 19-05-2010 10:13:49


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Graziano Giovannini in his lab in Montecatini Terme.A large chocolate flower embellishes this cake made using spongesoaked in Grand Marnier, with chocolate bavaroise filling, with pralinealmonds and pine kernels all around.

“A cake must be a temptation": with this premise, Graziano Giovanniniof Montecatini Terme, near Pistoia, presents some cakes from his daily re-pertoire, which thanks to their simplicity and neatness make you want toeat even the photograph. “They are not modern cakes,” specifies the renowned Tuscan confectio-ner in the humble tone that is his hallmark, “I always use traditional chan-tilly cream in various flavours and I do not use special biscuits; instead Iprefer a good sponge that has been soaked without too strong a flavour,in keeping with our traditions."

IN PRAISE OF SIMPLICITY


THE AUTUMN FEEL OF THIS CAKE COMES FROM THE CHOCOLATE

SPONGE SOAKED IN LIGHT RUM AND A CUP OF COFFEE, WITH

CHOCOLATE CHANTILLY CREAM. FINISH WITH MERINGUE MUSHRO-OMS AND OTHER DECORATIONS AT WILL.


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CROCCANTINO AL RUM USES A BASE OF CHOCOLATE

SPONGE SOAKED IN RUM, CHOCOLATE GANACHE AND

CHOPPED CHOCOLATE FILLING, CARAMEL CHOCOLATE

COVERING AND CRUSHED HAZELNUT TOPPING.

(PHOTOS GIANCARLO BONONI)

SELMI SRL Via Statale,151 - 12069 Santa Vittoria d’Alba (CN)

Tel. +39.0172.479273/75 (r.a.) - Fax +39.0172.477814www.selmi-group.it - [email protected]

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Sigep 2011 will be the stage of theItalian Gelato Championship, whosecontestants will be individual gelatomakers pointed out by the most impor-tant Italian associations, and they willbe judged by an international jury. The

winner will be the captain of the Italian team compe-ting in the Gelato World Cup 2012.The competition is part of a schedule connected withthe international event organized by Rimini Fiera andCoGel-Fipe Confcommercio. Some World Cup Clubsare set up in various countries, in order to support thequalitative standard of the event, and the teams fromCanada, Peru, Mexico, China, England and Turkeyhave already begun their training. A new test concer-ning savoury gelato has been added to the competi-tion rules and each team will also include a chef. The international competition is biennial and is open to10 teams; the jury includes the presidents of eachteam (with the right to vote) and is presided by amember of the organization (without any right to vote).The regulations include the making of decorated cupsfor table service, gelato cakes, decorated tubs, gelatocones, and ice, gelato and chocolate pièces.www.coppamondogelateria.it - www.sigep.it

THE ITALIAN GELATOCHAMPIONSHIP

The grade of Chevalier dans l’Ordre de la Légion

d’Honneur (Knight of National Order of the Legion

of Honour) has been awarded to Emilia Coccolo

Chiriotti, founder and director of the professional

magazine “Pasticceria Internazionale”.

A letter signed by Nicolas Sarkozy, the President of

the French Republic, announced the prestigious

decoration, which is the highest in France, as a reward for “the

quality of her services rendered to France and her expressed de-

votion”. The president’s words underline the importance of her

work in the field of professional publishing, which aims at impro-

ving the artisan quality of confectionery. Mrs. Chiriotti started off

in 1978, the year of the foundation of the magazine, driven by

her passion for the pastry world and professional competitions

such as the World Pastry Cup, which she has supported since

the first edition together with MOF Gabriel Paillasson, the foun-

der of the event.

A PRESTIGIOUS DECORATION

A new international event will take place in Rimini during Sigep, from 22 to 26 January 2011. TheWorld Confectionery Championship reserved for under-23 year old young professionals is organi-zed by Rimini Fiera along with three confectionery experts, such as Livia Chiriotti, Iginio Massari andRoberto Rinaldini, who will be the chairman. The contestants will be young pastry chefs from ten countries. Each team will be made up of twomembers, a captain and a team manager. The event will be coordinated by a Development Committeewhose members, as well as Rimini Fiera, are Accademia Maestri Pasticceri Italiani (Academy of Ma-ster Confectioners), “Pasticceria Internazionale” magazine, Conpait association and Cast Alimentischool. The panel of judges will be chaired by Academy chairman Giovanni Pina, and completed bythe team managers and captains of the individual teams, as well as four internationally famous pastrychefs. An overall total of 26 judges, with Honorary chairman Iginio Massari. www.sigep.it

JUNIOR WORLD CONFECTIONERY CHAMPIONSHIP AT SIGEP 2011

Akasaki Tetsuro is the Japanese pastrychef who won the last edition of the Lu-xardo Grand Prix. His pétits gâteaux andartistic pièce were inspired to the themeItalian Summer, and the ingredients inclu-ded Maraschino and Limoncello Luxardo.This competition takes place every year inTokyo and involves Japanese pastry chefs.Only five of them take part in the final trialand the winner is invited at Sigep each Ja-nuary, where he presents his sugar pièceand is awarded a gold medal.Luxardo Grand Prix was invented by theItalian company in order to discover youngand talented Japanese pastry chefs. Nowit is recognized as a one of the best pro-fessional opportunities in Japan for youngprofessionals wishing to improve their ca-reers and obtain international visibility.www.luxardo.it

ITALIAN SUMMER AT THE 16TH LUXARDO GRAND PRIX

Akasaki Tetsuro, the winner of the 16th edition ofthe Luxardo Grand Prix, was awarded a gold me-dal by Matteo Luxardo last January, at Sigep.

Tetsuro’s pétits gâteaux and artistic pièce we-re inspired to the theme Italian Summer.

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For 4 cakes, diameter 16 cm, h 4 cm

Componentsgioconda biscuit g 750

cherry jam for the interior g 493milk chocolate 33% custard g 596

rice mousse g 972rice cooked in milk g 606

TOTAL WEIGHT kg 3.42

Gioconda biscuitalmond TPT g 310

flour g 50eggs g 210

fresh butter g 30pasteurized whites g 125

sugar g 25Sift the flour with the TPT and begin to beat it in the mixing bowl, gra-dually adding the eggs. Add the melted butter and lastly the whippedegg whites. For the normal sponge cake, bake in a ventilated oven at200°C; for the sheet type, bake in a ventilated oven 250°C for about6 minutes, valve closed.

Rice cooked in milkfresh milk g 300

sugar g 60fresh butter g 30

salt g 2vanilla powder g 4

polished rice g 200grated orange peel g 10

Weigh all the ingredients except the rice, put them in a copper pot andbring to a boil; add the rice, stirring thoroughly, reduce heat and cookuntil the liquids are completely absorbed.

Cherry jamblack cherry pulp g 400

sugar g 80pectin g 1

Titanium gelatin (thickener 80 Bloom) g 2

water g 10Heat the pulp to 40°C and add sugar mixed with pectin; bring to a sim-mer, add gelatin dissolved in its water, emulsify and pour immediately.

Milk chocolate 33% custardcustard base g 200

Titanium gelatin (thickener 80 Bloom) g 6

water g 30milk chocolate 33% g 160

fresh cream 35% g 200Warm the custard base to 35°C, add the melted chocolate at 40°C andgelatin dissolved in its water. Emulsify and lighten with the single cream.

Rice moussecooked rice g 350

custard base g 180Titanium gelatin

(thickener 80 Bloom) g 7water g 35

fresh cream g 400Mix the rice and the custard; warm to 30°C; add the gelatine dissolved inits water and lighten with the cream. Pour immediately.

AssemblyStart by cooking the rice and let it cool. Prepare the cherry jam and pourinto steel containers that are smaller than the final cake. Blast chill andpour the milk chocolate custard over top, insert the sponge and blast chillagain. This cake is assembled in reverse order in 16 cm diameter molds,4 cm high, on a sheet of Moplefan. Pour the rice mousse on the base, in-sert the frozen interior and level out well. Blast chill immediately and storeuntil ready to serve. Demold, glaze with neutral icing and decorate as inthe photo.

Luca MannoriPrato

www.mannoriluca.com Photo Bononi

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vegetable broth g 2.000Carnaroli rice g 280

red radicchio di Treviso g 200red wine g 80

Parmigiano Reggiano cheese g 40

extra virgin olive oil g 10shallot g 20

Asiago cheese g 120marjoram sprigs no. 2

garlic clove no. 1bayleaf no. 1

Remove the radicchio outer leaves, rinse it carefully in cold and runningwater and cut the leaves into a thin julienne.In a sauté pan, sweat the thinly sliced shallot in extra virgin olive oil, withthe chopped marjoram and a garlic clove; add the radicchio and stew ona low heat for a few minutes. Wet with vegetable broth and cook till theleaves turn tender; season with salt and pepper.In a large saucepan, melt 20 g of butter in 10 g of extra virgin olive oil; addthe rice, the bayleaf and toast. Deglaze with red wine and let it evaporatecompletely, then keep cooking the rice as per a classical risotto.When the rice is done by 3/4 add the stewed radicchio, finish cooking andseason with sal and pepper.Take the rice off the heat and stir in the remaining remaining butter; addthe diced Asiago cheese and the grated Parmigiano Reggiano, cover witha lid, let sit for 1 minute and serve.

IFSE - Italian Food Style EducationPiobesi Torinese

www.ifse.itPhoto by Marco Beltramo

RISOTTO WITH RED CHICORY FROM TREVISO AND ASIAGO CHEESE

RECIPES FROM THE IFSE

RADICCHIO is a leaf chicory (Cichorium intybus, Aste-

raceae). It is grown as a leaf vegetable which usually has

white-veined red leaves and a bitter and spicy taste, which

mellows when it is grilled or roasted. The varieties are named

after the areas where they originate. Radicchio Rosso di

Treviso comes in two varieties: Precoce, which comes first

and has fleshy red leaves with white ribs that form a compact

bunch, and Tardivo, which has more pronounced ribs and

splayed leaves. Both now enjoy IGP (Indicazione Geografica

Protetta) status, which means that they can only be sold as

such if they are produced around Treviso, in Veneto region,

under the supervision of the Consorzio Radicchio di Treviso.

ASIAGO CHEESE is an Italian cheese with diffe-

rent textures, according to its aging (from smooth for the

fresh Asiago Pressato, to a crumbly texture for the Asiago

d'Allevo). The aged cheese is often grated in salads, soups,

pastas, and sauces, while the fresh one is sliced to prepare

sandwiches; it can also be melted on a variety of dishes. It

has a protected designation of origin (Denominazione di Ori-

gine Protetta or DOP) and the only “official” Asiago is produ-

ced in the Alpine area of the town of Asiago, province of

Vicenza, in the Veneto region, and now it is also made in the

Alpine region of the Province of Trento.



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COFFEE AS A COOKING INGREDIENT

Capicollo of pork braised in its own jus coffee-scented pork consommé

pork capicollo no. 1Pinot Noir wine dl 2

pork bones (preferably using the meaty bits) kg 3

Aromatic pork garnish for pork soup carrots no. 3

celery stalks no. 2 leeks no. 1

white onion no. 1cloves

halved ripe tomatoes no. 3parsley stems

bay leaf no. 1toasted coffee beans no. 10

Aromatic pork jusshallots no. 8

head of garlic no. 1Golden Delicious apples no. 2

CAPICOLLO (or capocollo or coppa) is

a traditional Italian dry-cured sausage made

from pork shoulder or neck. Meats are salted

and massaged and enriched with spices and

aromatic herbs. The Neapolitan Italian spelling,

Capocollo, is derived from Latin, caput collum.

sprig of lemon thyme no. 1sprig of rosemary no. 1

veal baseshallot strips marinated

in Barolo vinegargrated lemon rind

Maldon salt salad

(parsley, caraway, corn salad, wild mint, spinach buds and "horned" vio-let flowers).

Prepare a savoury broth with 1 kg of pork bones, previously scalded, andaromatic garnish. Clarify when ready. Infuse 100 g of consommé with thecoffee for a few minutes. Then move to the preparation of the pork jus, ca-ramelising the remaining 2 kg of bones cut into cubes the same size, thenthe aromatic garnish and end with brown veal base and ice. Cover andcook in a low oven for 4 hours and then blend.Secure the capicollo with kitchen twine, season and fry in olive oil and re-move excess oil, then add the wine and finally the pork jus. Bake the ca-picollo in an oven at 110°C for 5 hours until the meat is tender and thesauce syrupy.Dress a slice of capicollo glazed in its jus in a case, slowly pour on theconsommé with coffee and end with a few crystals of salt, pickled shal-lots, lemon and salad.

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Iced coconut and tapioca soup with coffee gelato and grilled banana

Coconut soup coconut milk g 200fresh cream g 200

sugar g 50pilè ice g 50

tapioca pearlssprig of rosemary n. 1

banana n 1brown sugar a.r.

Coffee gelato fresh milk g 200

fresh cream g 200sugar g 125

egg yolks no. 5espresso coffee g 200

praliné cereals a.r.

Prepare the coffee gelato pasteurizing egg yolks, sugar, cream and milk.Add the coffee and put in a Paco-Jet glass. Freeze.Cook the tapioca pearls in plenty of water and rosemary until soft andtransparent. Refrigerate.Cut the banana horizontally, pass it in brown sugar and grill immediately.Whip the coconut soup when mixing all ingredients in the blender.

AssemblyMix the tapioca with a little coconut soup and place it in the centre of a hol-ster. Put the banana in the middle and end with a few dumplings of icecream and some praliné cereals.

Stefano Baiocco Hotel Restaurant Villa Feltrinelli

Gargnano, Bresciawww.villafeltrinelli.com

Photo Studio Verde


Lamb marinated in coffee, and corn and herb ragout

Marinated lamblamb chops lamb sirloin

hot coffeejuniper

Clean the lamb ribs and sirloin, then dry with a dry cloth. Lay them ina steel container with high edges, add the spices and the coffee stillwarm until it covers the meat. Cool and refrigerate for 24 hours. Drainand dry with paper towels, put under vacuum and refrigerate.

Corn ragoutminced shallot

buttercanned corn

white winecreamgravy

saltpepper

Heat the butter in a saucepan, add the shallots and cook for 2 minutes.Add the corn, drizzle with white wine, cover with the cream and reduceover a low heat. When the cream is reduced and creamy, add the gravyfor the desired consistency. Blast chill and refrigerate.

Coffee sauce with xanthan gumespresso coffee g 100

xanthan gum g 1Add the xanthan gum to the hot coffee and mix with a whisk, making itthicken. Store for the preparation of the lamb.

Assemblylamb marinated in coffee

corn ragoutcoffee sauce with

xanthan gum aromatic buds

Maldon saltsalt

pepperolive oil

Wipe the lamb of any excess coffee; salt and pepper, then bake in apan with hot oil, drain and place in the oven to finish cooking, about 5minutes.Meanwhile, heat the corn sauce. In a square dish prepare an obliquestrip of corn ragout adding a few drops of coffee sauce. Wipe the lamb,place in the plate, sprinkle with Maldon salt, add herbs and serve.

Giovanni GrassoLa Credenza Restaurant

San Maurizio Canavese, Torinowww.ristorantelacredenza.it


Emmanuele Forcone (sugar), Domenico Longo (ice), and Davide Comaschi (choco-late) are the members of the Italian team that will compete in the 11th edition of theCoupe du Monde de la Pâtisserie (World Pastry Cup), which will take place in Lyon,France, on 23rd and 24th of January 2011 at Eurexpo, in occasion of the 15th Sirha.Countries from all over the world – Japan, South Korea, Usa, Belgium, Italy, Nether-lands, Spain, UK, Russia, Tunisia, Singapore, Malaysia, Taiwan, China, Morocco –will be involved in the international contest invented by Mof Gabriel Paillasson. The Ita-lian team training is supervised by the Club Coupe du Monde - Selezione Italia, whichis presided over by Luigi Biasetto. www.cmpatisserie.com/2009

WORLD PASTRY CUP 2011

The Italian team.

The Italian team thanks its sponsors

in Lyon

[email protected]

THE UNIQUE PLEASURE OF THE ORIGINAL

SFOGLIATELLA NAPOLETANA


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Since 1763 Turin's Al Bicerin has been a meeting place for

intellectuals, gourmets,and tourists

A stop at Al Bicerin is a step back in time. Itseems incredible that the moment you enterthis historic premises in Turin, at the sametime there are people in New York shufflingabout like ants on Fifth Avenue while theFrench drive their cars around the Arc deTriomphe of Paris. We are in the twenty-firstcentury, yet time seems to have come to astandstill when, having gone beyond the ad-vertising board and the insignia, you walkthrough the old iron door complete withsmall columns and capitals. Inside, the wallclock no longer seems to tick. The low cei-ling, the timeworn herringbone floor, wood-panelled walls, mirrors and eight whitemarble Liberty tables set the mood. Theshop windows are small with handmadewhite lace curtains behind them, and glasscontainers with assorted sweets, bottles ofrosolio and vermouth in full view. The coffeemachine on the counter represents the limitbeyond which you cannot go because thereis the entrance to the workshop where thechocolate cooks for hours before beingready for a bicerin.The premises are frequented by passersby,

intellectuals, tourists, and people who cometo see "how we used to be". The service isunhurried, there is no noise, only the aromaof the chocolate, made using an old recipehanded down from Signora Cavalli to thecurrent owner of the shop Maritè (MariaTeresa) Costa. This is no ordinary shop.The warm colours, dimmed lights, and acandle on every table make you feel like oneof the family, thanks also to the all-femalestaff, out of respect for the tradition that al-lowed the madame to come here in all tran-quillity. There is no privacy at Al Bicerinbecause the tables are so close to eachother that clients can hear each other's con-

versations. Thanks to guide books and web-sites that speak about the premises as amust visit, some Spanish tourists ask for ahot chocolate; an actor, working in the eve-nings at the Teatro Carignano, reads a book,while a girl with a foreign accent looksaround inquisitively. Il Bicerin was established in 1763 bythe citron-drink maker and confectionerGiuseppe Dentis, who, in large glasseswould serve the bavareisa, a mixed drink ofcoffee, chocolate and milk: the same ingre-dients that are served separately in the drinkof the same name. www.bicerin.it

Giuseppe Campanaro

A STEP BACKIN TIME

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THE MARKET MEETS IN MILAN: DON’T MISS THE DATE!

The right recipe to leaven up your business

International Baking and Technology Exhibition for Bakery, Pastry and Confectionery

pizza

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In coincidence with:

Organized by

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A.B. Tech ExpoTel +39 02 49976246Fax +39 02 [email protected]

ContactsEvents promoted by With the endorsement and the co-operation of

www.abtechexpo.com

MILAN 23rd - 27th OCTOBER 2010


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Torta gioiello (jewel cake)is an original concept byFrancesco Ciocatto, pastrychef and owner of Pastic-ceria Gerla in Torino, andOlimpia Ciervo, designer.For those wishing to pro-duce this design cake,which is completely edible,a special technical and pro-motion kit is available, inclu-ding all the useful elementsto make and sell the [email protected]

A SWEET JEWEL

Positive signs from A.B. Tech Expo, the exhibition dedicated to technologies and products forbakery, pastry, confectionery, fresh pasta and pizza, to be held in fieramilano (Rho, Milano) inOctober from 23rd to 27th 2010.A growing number of exhibitors have already confirmed their presence: 85% of the Italian ma-nufacturers, leaders on the International market, has already decided to participate, makingA.B. Tech Expo the venue of the year for all those professionals wishing to innovate and im-prove their production capabilities and increase their turnover.In Milan visitors will have the occasion to make a hands-on experience and find all the cuttingedge production in terms of equipment, machinery, ovens, high quality ingredients and semi-fi-nished products, as well as furnishing and facilities. Everything to make their business morecompetitive and in step with the times.Within the exhibiting area there will be several active workshops dedicated to professionaltraining and updating specifically addressed to confectioners and bakers. With the precioussupport of the most important Italian pastry chefs and academies, these workshops will offerto the visitors the unique chance to update on the latest trends and the most effective techni-ques. A great number of events dedicated to pastry and chocolate will unveil to the secret

skills of pastry-making craftsmanship, based on an alluring blend of technique, ingredients and creativity. Further information about the shows are on www.abtechexpo.com. Here you can also find all the latest newsabout the event. Moreover, on the website it is already available the pre-registration service for those who wish toapply for their free entrance card.

THE RECIPE TO LEAVEN UP YOUR BUSINESS

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pasticceria internazionale