Operation_mangement Final Project

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4/3/2012

SHAHRAJ FABRICS LIMITED - PROCESS DESIGN AND Q UALITY

MANAGEMENT

Submitted By:

Adam Zia

Khurram

RehmanAkram

Saba Javed Hayat

Samar Shoaib



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Table of ContentsCompany Profile – Shahraj Textiles ............................................................................................................. 3

Production Process at Processing Unit .......................................................................................................... 4

1. PHYSICAL INSPECTION OF RAW MATERIAL ............................................................................. 4

2. SINGEING ............................................................................................................................................ 43. DE-SIZING PROCESS ........................................................................................................................ 5

4. BLEACHING PROCESS ..................................................................................................................... 6

Rinsing – Pre Washers .............................................................................................................................. 6

Bleaching Process ..................................................................................................................................... 6

Rinsing – Post Washers ............................................................................................................................ 6

Mercerizing Process .................................................................................................................................. 7

5. DYEING ............................................................................................................................................... 8

Dyeing Process.......................................................................................................................................... 8

Drying Process .......................................................................................................................................... 8

Padding, Steaming and Washing .............................................................................................................. 8

Drying Process .......................................................................................................................................... 8

6. FINISHING PROCESS ........................................................................................................................ 8

7. PRINTING PROCESS .......................................................................................................................... 9

Computerized Design Repeat Pattern ....................................................................................................... 9

Screen Production ..................................................................................................................................... 9

Printing .................................................................................................................................................... 10

Folding .................................................................................................................................................... 10

QUALITY ASSURANCE .......................................................................................................................... 11

Quality testing at Shahraj fabrics ................................................................................................................ 12

Water spray test....................................................................................................................................... 12

Lab Test for light fastness and color. ...................................................................................................... 12

Perspiration Tester – Perspirometer ......................................................................................................... 13

Martindale Abrasion Test ....................................................................................................................... 13

Digital Balance........................................................................................................................................ 14

Spectrophotometer test ............................................................................................................................ 14

APPENDIX A – Flow Chart Of Entire Process ......................................................................................... 15Appendix B: Machinery Details ................................................................................................................. 16



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Company Profile – Shahraj Textiles

Shahraj Fabrics (Pvt) Limited is a vertical textile Company that has its own Weaving, Processing

and Stitching Units.

Two Weaving Units having 250 latest high-tech airjet and shuttleless looms with the capabilityto weave fabrics, width ranging from 31 inches to 160 inches to the tune of 2 to3 million linear

meter per month.

The Processing Unit has latest high tech processing machines that have the capability to bleach,

dye, print and finish fabrics up to 3 million meter per month of various variety and quality.

The Stitching unit is installed with latest switch track system with 250 stitching machines besides

the Unit has four quilting machines. The Stitching Unit has the capability to stitch and pack up to

02 million sheet sets and 100,000 sets bed in a bag per month.

The Company produces export oriented high quality fabrics products and is exporting Greig,

Bleached, processed Fabrics and made ups to almost all the countries of the world but major

export regions are USA, European Union, Far Eastern Countries and China. The annual turnover

business of the Company is around US$ 45 Million.

Shahraj Fabrics Limited’s Processing Unit is a fully equipped plant to produce the desired

quality fabric according to specification. They produce fabric for local buyers, international

buyers and army. The company has one person designated to manage contacts with local buyers,

two export managers and one manager is designated to deal specifically with army.

They make dyed, printed and finished fabrics to the renowned trading companies worldwide.

This includes soap washed, bleached, dyed (reactive, vat, reactive disperse dyeing etc.), printed

(reactive and pigment printing), peach finish, crease resistant, water repellant, mercerized,

sanforized, anti-bacterial treatment and anti-fungal treatment etc.



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Production Process at Processing Unit

The production process entails different departments all of which are assigned separate tasks in

fabric production process.

1. PHYSICAL INSPECTION OF RAW MATERIAL

When the fabric arrives at the gate of production facility, a gate pass specifying fabric usage is

assigned; local or export. Moreover a root card is also issued which specifies the delivery date

and customer requirements e.g. dyed or white cloth, plain or printed, etc. Fabric comes in three

forms; bale form, roll form or loose form. Once the root card is received, planning and

production manager determines the urgency of shipment and based upon that grey area manager

along with two on site assistants checks the raw material/fabric for mis-end, mis-pick and double

ends. Roughly 10% of inspection is done at this step. If the fabric is not of satisfactory quality

then the problem is communicated to planning and production manager. If it is “own fabric”

(Sheraz Fabrics has backward integration as another setup makes loose cloth from yarn under the

same ownership), then the export manager is told and roll is sent back if it can’t be processes

according to customer specifications. On other hand, if B grade raw fabric is received from

outside entity then it is best utilized by cutting out flawed pieces.

2. SINGEING

The first step in fabric treatment procedure is singeingprocess. Singeing is done by both flame

and gas at different steps. Heavy fabric is usually singed at 90 degree which very light fabric is

singed at 45 degrees. The process starts when the fabric is passed through guiders where the

cloth is brushed to make the unnecessary fibers upright; gas heater produces the oxygenated air

which burns away these fibers. The average speed of passing the cloth through this machine is 90

to 100 meters per minute while the lower limit of machine is 90 meters per minute and upper

limit is 120 meters per minute.



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3. DE-SIZING PROCESS

After passing over the hot oxygenated air, the cloth is moved to de-sizing box. Usually the fabric

contains either natural starch (corn or maze), or synthetic starch. The starch is removed by an

enzyme produced by alpha amylase bacteria (1 gram) and acetic side is removed by a de-sizing

chemical agent (1-2 liters). This process can take 4 to 10 hours based upon the type of cloth and

specifications of customers about the finished

product. Furthermore, this time is required for the

enzyme to become active to complete the process.

Then the cloth is passed through squeezing

machine where linear squeezing and compressing

under hydraulic pressure is done to maintain thequality of the cloth. The rotation time spans

around 60 to 80 meter per min.

Then cloth then produced is framed on hydraulic

rotation machine which makes 10 rotations in a

minute. This machine is revolving slowly and

continuously to prevent the uneven thickness or

staining in the cloth frame.

Check Points in Singing and De-sizing Process;

Check the chemical recipe

Check the flame distance and length

Temperature of de-sizing bath

Tension of brushing rollers



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4. BLEACHING PROCESS

Rinsing – Pre Washers

The frames are then loaded on the J box and cloth is sent to an array of pre-washers and

squeezers. There are three sets of washers and squeezers in the production plant. The first washer

tries to achieve maximum temperature of 90 to 95 degrees as fabric temperature is low. Then

cloth is feed to the hydraulic pressure squeezer in which vacuum is created and suckers take out

impurities from the fabric. Then the cloth is fed again to two alternate washer and squeezer sets

to clean the cloth properly.

Bleaching Process

After the cloth is free from all the impurities from earlier steps, the cloth is fed into a giant

steaming unit. Here the unit contains hydrogen peroxide (to remove natural colors), caustic

catalyst (to remove waxes), stabilizer, de-ironizing agent and wetting agent. Automatic dozing is

adjusted here. The steamer has a temperature of 100 to 102 degrees due to both saturated and dry

steam. Steaming increase the reaction rate and usually a 200 gram quality fabric takes 15 to 18

minutes in steamer before the dyeing process can start.

Check Points in Bleaching Process

Check washing and steamer temperature

Check the chemical recipe

Check compressor pressure

Check padderpressure in all portions of

plant

Rinsing – Post Washers

The cloth is then sent again to an alternate series

of five washers and five squeezers. The firstwasher has a temperature of 85 to 90 degrees and

electromagnetic valve will turn off the steam

based upon the temperature. After the cloth has

passed through the set of five washers and dryers,



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the cloth is then passed on to bi-conduction dryers. Here cloth is dried through the contact with

steam filled dryers in whom steam is continuously pumped in and is let out through specific

steam inlets and outlets.

Mercerizing Process

Here PH is neutralized before the dyeing

process. The fabric is moisturized at aa very

fast pace; usually 45 meter per min. Here

caustic of relevant strength is prepared to

balance the PH of the fabric. Usually,240 mg

caustic is put in wetting. After passing the

cloth through the caustic mixture, it passes

through a series of post washers and squeezers

to remove caustic. PH is neutralized by using

acetic acid or buffer substance. (PH range here

is 7 – 8). Then the cloth is dried by conduction

and is framed.

In this process it is necessary to check to tension of fabric as well as dipping time of fabric in

caustic as it will impact the finish of the fabric. Moreover when the fabric is washed, it is

necessary to check the temperature of water in areas of washer.



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5. DYEING

Dyeing Process

In the thermo-dying machine, white cloth frame is loaded on the J-box and cloth guiders take the

fabric in the trough. This trough carries color according to customer specifications. Color is

developed at the laboratory and it is tested on the color fastness dimension.

Drying Process

After dyeing, fabric is dried in drying chamber. This chamber contains a fluid which is heated by

infrared waves to 800 degrees. This hot vaporous gas circulates around the fabric evenly and

starts the curing process. In this the temperature causes the fabric pores to open and vaporous

dye goes in the fabric pores. Once the fabric is taken out, pores get closed and dye is trapped in

it. Drying by conduction is no done as it will cause spotting on the fabric.

Padding, Steaming and Washing

Then the polyester is removed from the fabric as well as dye is developed. The fabric is fed in

the trough carrying a recipe of developing mixture. It carries a developing agent and a reactive.

Once the cloth is out of trough, it is squeezed and is sent into steamer. Here a temperature of 102

degrees is kept for initiation of the reaction process. average speed of fabric is 45 meters per min.

a series of eight washers and squeezers take out the unfixed dyes.

Drying Process

Again the cloth is dried in Teflon dryers. These are non adhesive and chemicals do not stick to

the fabric surface. Shade testing is done after every 500 or 1000 meters and a card carrying

sample and trolley number is sent to the lab for testing.

6. FINISHING PROCESS

The stanter machine is used in the finishing process. Company has six chambers in the stanter

machine and the capacity of each chamber is 3 meters per min. Stanter do four primary

functions;

Width completion

Finishing



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Winding

Dying – usually light colors are dyed here.

Bowing and squeezing is done here for fabric alignment. Usually a client appointed checker

checks the fabric quality here. 7. PRINTING PROCESS

Computerized Design Repeat Pattern

The designing engineers at the Design studio

take 1 meter strike off sample from the

customer. They then use this sample to

determine repetition of a particular design and

color. After the determination of each color and

each pattern, the computer assistants match the

color and make individual computerized design

sheets.

Screen Production

These repeats go to the “Engraving and Exposing

Department” which make individual screens for

each individual pattern. The plastic screens are

porous in areas where a particular pattern or

color is present so that the color can seam in the

fabric. These plastic screens can be used overand over again. Shahraj fabrics Limited keep the

screens of recurring customers demanding

similar design. Otherwise the patterns screens

used once are rinsed off.



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Printing

Printing machine at Shahraj fabrics limited has 12 screeens and hence can print a cloth with

maximum 12 colors. All these are fitted consecutively across a conveyor belt. Firstly the darker

shades are printed and then the lighter ones are set in.

After the cloth is printed then the cloth is fd into the drying chamber and is paint is dried.

Folding

The fabric is then folded according to customer requirement in either bale form or the roll form.

For domestic supply it is folded in lastic cover and for export quality it is folded in roll cover.



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QUALITY ASSURANCE

Quality Standards Achieved by Shahrajfabrics include;

ISO 9001

ISO 2008

ISO 1400

SA 8000

Quality Policyguidelines at Shahra fabrics includes

Quality assurance

Regular monitoring of customers requirement and expectations.

Clients satisfaction

Timely delivery/ shipment

Compliance of legal and regulatory environment

Minimize wastage

Employee’s professional competence, constant grooming and development

Striving for excellence



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Quality testing at Shahraj fabrics

Water spray test

The water spray test is used to find out the water

pick up rate for a fabric. This test is used

primarily to test the quality and effectiveness of

water resistant fabric. In the water spray test a

sample is cut out from the roll of fabric for the

purpose of testing. The sample is then secured to

begin the test. A beaker with exactly 250ml of

water is placed over it and the test is initiated.

The beaker has several holes in it to emulate raindrops and to check if the fabric repels or absorbs

the water. The water is dropped exactly for 25

seconds on the fabric using a steady flow and

then two laboratory experts check to see if the

fabric passed the test. If the water is repelled at

the rate which is required for the specific fabric

then the whole roll of fabric is passed for the

water spray test. If the fabric does not pass the test and starts to absorb the water then the fabric

is rejected and sent back to be discarded or to be finished with another layer of Teflon chemicals

which make the fabric water resistant.

Lab Test for light fastness and color.

The light fastness test is used to determine the

color fastness of any type of dyed and printed

materials against day light. In this test a sample

is exposed to a mercury blinded tungsten lamp

inside a chamber where the temperature inside

the chamber is controlled by water cooling.

This test checks for the resistance of the fabric



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to fading due to exposure to sunlight. Each type of fabric has its own set of requirements about

light fastness. A sample of the fabric is put into the machine and then an ultra bright light is

exposed to the fabric, at the end of the test the fading of the fabric is reviewed and if it does not

perform up to the mark then the fabric cannot be sent out.

Perspiration Tester –

Perspirometer

The perspirometer is used to check the

fading in fabric and the used to check how

much the fabric fades under water or sweat

depending on the use of that material. In

order to conduct this test a sample is dipped

in either water or an alkaline solution and

then rested to absorb the liquid, then the

process is repeated until a couple of stack

are completed. The stacks are then placed

under two stainless steel plates and after the

test is completed. After the test the fabric is

checked for the change in color and the

degree of staining.

Martindale Abrasion Test

The abrasion test is used to find out the

abrasion resistance of all types of fabrics. The

abrasion resistance is measure by subjecting

the sample to a rubbing motion and this test

finds out the resistive capabilities of various

types of materials. The materials are then

evaluated through various means including

direct comparison to actual samples or the lap

assistant checks it. This is an international



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standard test and passing this test is a requirement for most of the orders that the factory receives.

Digital Balance

Digital balance is used to measure the color according to customer specifications. The accuracy

is in line with the international standards.

Spectrophotometer test

The spectrophotometer is a tool that is used to measure the color density of the dye used in the

fabric. The machine measures the dye mixture solutions in order to control the color and to

measure the density of dye used in the fabric



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APPENDIX A – Flow Chart Of Entire Process

Physical

Inspection of Raw Material

Singeing

De-sizing

Bleaching

Mercurizing

Dyeing Printing

Finishing

Folding



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Appendix B: Machinery Details

S.No. Description Width MakeBleach Department

1. Singeing machine (singing/desizing) 304.8 cm Babcock 2. Bleaching plant 381 cm Goller

3. Mercerizing Range 381 cm SAGA Textile4. Caustic Recovery KZ-2i6Dyeing Department5. Thermo sol (dyeing) 248.9 cm Babcock 6. Pad Stream (wash,developer) 330.2 cm Kusters7. Jigger (dyeing,wash) 266.7 cm China CompanyFinishing Department

8. Stenter 1 (chambers pin & 304.8 cm Babcock clip, gas heated withdyeing padder)

9. Stenter 2 (chambers pin &

clip, gas heated withdyeing padder) 243.8 cm Babcock

10. Stenter 3 325.1 cm Alkan Makina11. Sanforizing Range 304.8 cm Zhang Junxue12. Calander 1 304.8 cm Universal13. Calander 2 330.2 cm Changzhou Changda Machinery14. Calander 3 304.8 cm Metalmeccanica Busto Arsizio ItaliaPrinting Department

15. Rotoray 284.5cm Jahnzimer16. Sampling 289.6 cm17. Engraring 309.9 cm A-Tax Screen

18. Acquring machine 294.6 cm Babcock 19. Design Studio(Printing) 91.4 cm HP Designjet 500

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Operation_mangement Final Project