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THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Celeste Brash, Caroline Sieg, Karla Zimmerman Newfoundland & Labrador p169 Prince Edward Island p143 New Brunswick p102 Nova Scotia p40 Nova Scotia, New Brunswick & Prince Edward Island ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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Page 1: Noca Scotia NB & PEI - Contents - Lonely Planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/nova-scotia-new-brunswick-pei-3... · script for 2 colour books (the colour of the Plan banner must

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Celeste Brash, Caroline Sieg, Karla Zimmerman

Newfoundland& Labrador

p169

Prince EdwardIsland

p143New

Brunswickp102

Nova Scotiap40

Nova Scotia, New Brunswick &

Prince Edward Island

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Page 2: Noca Scotia NB & PEI - Contents - Lonely Planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/nova-scotia-new-brunswick-pei-3... · script for 2 colour books (the colour of the Plan banner must

Welcome to Nova Scotia, New Brunswick & Prince Edward Island . . . . . . . . . . 4Nova Scotia, New Brunswick & Prince Edward Island Map . . . . . . .6Nova Scotia, New Brunswick & Prince Edward Island’s Top 10 . . .8Need to Know . . . . . . . . . .16If You Like… . . . . . . . . . . . .18Month by Month . . . . . . . .21Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 24Outdoor Activities . . . . . 28Travel with Children . . . . 34Regions at a Glance . . . . .37

Pomquet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86Cape.George. . . . . . . . . . . . . 86Cape Breton Island . . . . 87Port.Hastings.&..Port.Hawkesbury. . . . . . . . . 87Cabot.Trail.&.Cape.Breton.Highlands.National.Park. . . .88Bras.d’Or.Lake.&.Around. . . 94North.Sydney . . . . . . . . . . . . 95Sydney. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96Glace.Bay. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97Louisbourg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97Eastern Shore . . . . . . . . . 98Guysborough . . . . . . . . . . . . 99Canso. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99Sherbrooke. . . . . . . . . . . . . 100Taylor.Head..Provincial.Park. . . . . . . . . . . 100Tangier. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101Charlotte.Lake.to.Jedore. . . 101

NEW BRUNSWICK . . .102Fredericton . . . . . . . . . . 105Hartland. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110Mt.Carleton.Provincial..Park.&.the.Tobique.Valley. . . 112Grand.Falls .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 114St.Stephen . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115St.Andrews.by-the-Sea. . . 115New.River..Provincial.Park. . . . . . . . . . . 119Fundy Isles . . . . . . . . . . . .119Deer.Island . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119Campobello.Island. . . . . . . 120Grand.Manan.Island . . . . . 122Saint John . . . . . . . . . . . 124St.Martins. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129Fundy.National.Park . . . . . 130Alma. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132Cape.Enrage.&..Mary’s.Point . . . . . . . . . . . . 132Hopewell.Rocks . . . . . . . . . 132Moncton. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133Sackville. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136

NOVA SCOTIA . . . . . . 40Halifax . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44Dartmouth. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55Eastern.Shore.Beaches. . . . 56Sambro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56Peggy’s.Cove. . . . . . . . . . . . . 56South Shore . . . . . . . . . . 57Chester . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58Mahone.Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58Lunenburg. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60Liverpool . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62Kejimkujik.National.Park. . . .63Shelburne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65Yarmouth. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66Annapolis Valley & French Shore . . . . . . . . . . 67Cape.St.Mary.to..Meteghan. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67Church.Point.to..St.Bernard. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68Digby.Neck . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69Digby . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70Bear.River. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71Annapolis.Royal . . . . . . . . . . 71Kentville. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73Wolfville. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74Grand.Pré . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75Windsor. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76Shubenacadie. . . . . . . . . . . . 77Maitland. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77Truro. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78Economy.to.Five.Islands. . . 79Parrsboro. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80Cape.d’Or. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81Joggins. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82Amherst. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82Sunrise Trail . . . . . . . . . . 82Wallace. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82Wentworth. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83Tatamagouche . . . . . . . . . . . 83Pictou. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84New.Glasgow. . . . . . . . . . . . . 85Antigonish. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86

Remember to run the 4C > 2C script for 2 colour books (the colour of the Plan banner must reflect the Plan section)

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NEW BRUNSWICK P102

ON THE ROAD PLAN YOUR TRIP

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Contents

Northumberland Shore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136Cape.Jourimain . . . . . . . . . 136Shediac . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137Bouctouche. . . . . . . . . . . . . 137Kouchibouguac..National.Park . . . . . . . . . . . 138Miramichi. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139Miramichi.River.Valley. . . . 140Caraquet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141Campbellton. . . . . . . . . . . . 142

PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND . . . . . . . . . . 143Charlottetown . . . . . . . . 147Orwell. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153Point.Prim. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154Wood.Islands. . . . . . . . . . . . 154Murray.River.&.Around. . . 154Panmure.Island . . . . . . . . . 154Montague.&.Around . . . . . 155Georgetown. . . . . . . . . . . . . 156Souris. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156St.Peter’s.to.Mt.Stewart. . . 157Victoria. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158Prince.Edward.Island..National.Park . . . . . . . . . . . 158Dalvay.by.the.Sea .. .. .. .. .. .. ..159Brackley.Beach. . . . . . . . . . 159Rustico. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160New.Glasgow. . . . . . . . . . . . 161St.Ann .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. ..162North.Rustico. . . . . . . . . . . 162Cavendish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163New.London.&..Park.Corner. . . . . . . . . . . . . 164Kensington.&.Around . . . . 165Summerside. . . . . . . . . . . . 165Région.Évangéline. . . . . . . 167Tyne.Valley. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167Lennox.Island. . . . . . . . . . . 168Tignish. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168North.Cape. . . . . . . . . . . . . 168

West.Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168

NEWFOUNDLAND & LABRADOR . . . . . . . 169St John’s . . . . . . . . . . . . .172Avalon Peninsula . . . . . 184Conception.Bay . . . . . . . . . 186Trinity.Bay. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187Cape.Shore. . . . . . . . . . . . . 187Trinity. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188Bonavista. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190Burin.Peninsula . . . . . . . . . 191St-Pierre & Miquelon . . 192Terra.Nova..National.Park . . . . . . . . . . . 195Gander. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196Twillingate.Island.&..New.World.Island. . . . . . . . 196Fogo.Island.&..Change.Islands. . . . . . . . . . 198Grand.Falls-Windsor .. .. .. .. ..199Deer.Lake . . . . . . . . . . . . . .200Gros.Morne..National.Park . . . . . . . . . . .200Port.au.Choix . . . . . . . . . . .204St.Barbe.to.L’anse.Aux.Meadows. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .205St.Anthony . . . . . . . . . . . . .206Corner.Brook . . . . . . . . . . .208Port.aux.Basques. . . . . . . . 211Labrador . . . . . . . . . . . . 215Nova Scotia, New

Brunswick & Prince Edward Island Today . . 224History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226

Maritimes Music . . . . . . 233

Atlantic Canadian Art . . . 237

Food & Drink . . . . . . . . . .241

Landscape & Wildlife . . . 247

Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . 254

Transportation . . . . . . . 266

Language . . . . . . . . . . . . 273

Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 280

Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . 287

Remember to run the 4C > 2C script for 2 colour books (the colour of the Plan banner must reflect the Plan section)

SPECIAL FEATURES

Outdoor Activities . . . . . 28

Travel with Children . . . 34

Atlantic Canadian Art . . . . . . . . 237

Landscape & Wildlife . . . . . . . . . . . . . 247

Language . . . . . . . . . . . 273

UNDERSTAND

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Plan Your Trip

Whale Watching The region’s most precious gift to visitors is whale watching. The thrill of spot-ting a whale’s spout followed by its giant tail flukes arching and descending is unbeatable.

More than 22 species of whale and por-poise lurk offshore throughout Atlantic Canada, drawn to the rich fishy feeding waters. The standout species include the leaping and diving humpback whale, the highly endangered North Atlantic right whale and the largest leviathan of all, the mighty blue whale.

Whale-watch boat operators are ubiq-uitous and will bring you close to the creatures. Popular tour areas include Cape Breton, Nova Scotia’s Cabot Trail coastline, especially around Pleasant Bay.

The most common sightings here are humpback, minke and pilot whales. In New Brunswick, there is excellent whale watching along the eastern Fundy Shore and around the Fundy Isles; right whales and blue whales are viewable. Newfound-land pretty much has whales swimming all around its shores, with humpback and minke commonly seen; tour operators cluster around Witless Bay Ecological Re-serve and Twillingate.

Some tours get you closer to the ac-tion in Zodiacs while other tours are conducted on big, relatively comfortable ferry-like motorboats. Look for smaller tours such as Ocean Explorations Whale

Cruises (p 69 ) on Digby Neck, which are led by marine biologists. Many tours focus on more than just whales and will take you to see seals, puffins or other seabirds as well.

Standard trips last about two hours and cost around $55 to $80 per adult. The sighting success rate is often posted and you should ask if there’s any sort of money-back guarantee if you do not see whales. Remember, you’re heading out on open sea for many of these tours, so be prepared for a wavy ride. If you’re at all prone to seasickness, medicate beforehand. It’s also cold out there, so take a jacket or sweater. The season varies by location but usually is in July and August.

And while whale-watch tours are great, never underestimate what you can see from shore, especially from places such as Cape Breton’s Cabot Trail and throughout Newfoundland’s Avalon Peninsula. Seeing the faraway spout of a whale from a cliff top while a bald eagle soars overhead is a true Maritime experience.

Kayaking & Canoeing Atlantic Canada is chock-full of possibili-ties to get out on the water, be it a lazy canoe trip or a battle with rolling white water. Sea kayaking has exploded here, with myriad places to paddle. A unique activity in the region is tidal-bore rafting, where you harness the blasting force of the famous Fundy tides.

National and provincial parks are excel-lent places to start if you’ve never dipped an oar. Maps and equipment rentals are usually available from the park informa-tion centers, where the staff can also give route recommendations.

Canoeing doesn’t have the cachet of sea kayaking in the region, but there are still some lovely opportunities. The sport is best suited to inland lakes and rivers, so it’s no shocker that Kejimkujik National Park ranks high on the list. It’s a good place to paddle into the backcountry and camp. In New Brunswick, canoeing in untouched, moose- and bear-trodden Mt Carleton Provincial Park is sweet, while those who wish to remain closer to city life can push off from Fredericton and paddle through the Saint John River. Canoeing in Newfoundland centers on the region’s Terra Nova National Park (p 195 ).

On the Water Best Places to Whale Watch Twillingate Island, Newfoundland

Digby Neck, Nova Scotia

Grand Manan Island, New Brunswick

Pleasant Bay, Nova Scotia

Witless Bay Ecological Reserve, Newfoundland

Best Paddling Locations Eastern and south shores, Nova Scotia

Cape Breton, Nova Scotia

Fundy Isles, New Brunswick

Eastern Fundy shore, New Brunswick

Cartwright, Labrador

Witless Bay, Newfoundland

North Rustico, Prince Edward Island

Outdoor Activities

Atlantic Canada does a good job of harnessing its cliff y, marine-mammaled terrain for outdoor adventures. Visitors can now get out in the sun (or rain or fog) to hike, kayak, whale watch or even surf. The season is short for most activities (May to October in a good year), but you’ll nd plenty of tour operators eager to help. It’s also easy to arrange independent adventures.

SEA KAYAKING

If there’s any one activity that is Atlantic Canada’s specialty, it’s sea kayaking. It’s everywhere; it’s absolutely the best way to see the remarkable coastlines and you’ll often be kayaking alongside whales, seals and a huge amount of bird life.

Most companies cater to beginners, so no need to feel unworthy if you’ve never kayaked before. Conversely, advanced paddlers can rent crafts and head out on their own. It can be very rough out there due to volatile weather, high winds and strong currents, so know your limits. The Canadian government publishes an excel-lent resource titled Sea Kayaking Safety Guide, available via download from Trans-port Canada (www.tc.gc.ca/BoatingSafety/pubs/kayak/menu.htm). It details each province’s weather and kayaking terrain, and also provides trip-planning tips.

Trips range from paddling around icebergs in Newfoundland to navigating pro-tected inlets ringed by forest on uninhabited isles along the Eastern Shore of Nova Scotia. If you’re a beginner the best place to start are calm waters where your boat won’t get jostled around by waves or currents. Some companies make multiday trips, including camping in places you couldn’t get to otherwise.

TYING KNOTS

Unleash your inner sailor (or sher or rock climber) by learning to tie a half hitch, bowline and others with Knots and Splices (2006) by Cyrus Day and Colin Jarman. Also helpful for bud-ding escape artists.

29

PLAN YO

UR TRIP OU

TD

OO

R A

CT

IVIT

IES

07-outdoor-activities-nne3.indd 28-29 11/12/2013 12:12:06 PM

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ld's

mos

t pho

to-

grap

hed

light

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56)

Hal

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Wat

erfr

ont

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like

a p

irat

e, e

at ic

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like

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t (p4

4)

Cap

e B

reto

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ighl

ands

Spot

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les,

moo

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163)

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Soak up some music and culture in Halifax (p44) then travel to nearby Peggy’s Cove (p56). Jostle for position to snap the most photographed lighthouse in the world, or have a more subdued experience picnicking in equally pretty Prospect (p57). Don’t forget your sunscreen in Mahone Bay (p58), where the sun shines on great craft shopping and sea kayaking. Move on slightly south to Lunenburg (p60), a World Heritage site known for its colorful boxy buildings and Bluenose schooner where you could easily wander for a day or two. The Kejimkujik Seaside Adjunct (p64) provides miles of unspoiled white beaches (and maybe seals), while its big brother Kejimkujik National Park (p63) lies inland and is a prime place to float a canoe and drift through the woods. Cross the prov-ince to Annapolis Royal (p71) to stay at a heritage bed and breakfast, explore its fort by day and graveyard by night. The next day visit the wineries around Wolfville (p74) and the Grand Pré National Historic site (p75), before stopping to down a meal at a fine restaurant. Lastly explore the Fundy coast by hiking around Scots Bay (p74) or go to Maitland (p77) to get right in and raft the tidal bore.

Essential Nova Scotia

NEWBRUNSWICK

ATLANT I COCEAN

ScotsBay

ProspectMahone

BayLunenburg

AnnapolisRoyal

Maitland

Halifax

KejimkujikSeaside Adjunct

KejimkujikNational Park

NOVA SCOTIA

PEI

É

É

É

É

É

Maine(U S A)

#•Grand PréNationalHistoric Site

Wolfville

Peggy’sCove

#•

#•

#•#•

#•

#•

#•#•

#•

Itineraries

1 WEEK

24 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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Spend a couple of days in Halifax (p44) enjoying lively bars and a nonstop music scene, then hit the road up the Atlantic Coast. Stop for a chilly surf at Lawrencetown Beach (p56) or a hike through pine forest to a spectacular white-sand beach at Taylor Head Provincial Park (p100). Visit the historical village at Sherbrooke (p100) then either cut up Hwy 7 for a shortcut to Cape Breton Island or, with an extra day or two, continue on the coast to the sheltered picture-perfect hamlet of Guysborough (p99). Just after arriving on Cape Breton from the causeway, veer left toward Hwy 30 and stop in at one of the many ceilidh music gatherings along this route. Hook up with the Cabot Trail, at Chéticamp (p89), a deeply Acadian town. Next you can watch whales or chant with monks at the Tibetan monastery in Pleasant Bay (p91), and look for moose and nesting bald eagles in Cape Breton Highlands National Park (p90). Get your art fix at the studios along the St Ann’s Loop (p93) before heading over to Baddeck (p94) to learn everything you ever wanted to know about Alexander Graham Bell at the town’s fabulous museum. From here take a jaunt east to Louisbourg (p97) to visit the massive, windy restored French Fort complete with costumed thespians and activities to bring you back to the 18th century. Stop at the Miner’s Museum in Glace Bay (p97)before arriving in industrial North Sydney for the ferry to Newfoundland.

It’s a six-hour sail over the sometimes rough swell of the Cabot Strait to Port aux Basques (p211). Alight and drive north to Gros Morne National Park (p200), rich with mountain hikes, sea-kayak tours, fjords and weird rock formations. Take the Viking Trail from here to its awe-inspiring endpoint: L’Anse aux Meadows National Historic Site (p205), North America’s first settlement. Leif Eriksson and his Viking pals homesteaded the place 1000 years ago, and it probably looked much the same then as it does now. Af-ter coming all this way, you too will feel like an Atlantic explorer.

3 WEEKS

ATLANT I COCEAN

LawrencetownBeach

Guysborough

Pleasant BayChéticamp

Louisbourg

Sherbrooke

Port auxBasques

Glace Bay

Halifax

Gros MorneNational Park

Cape Breton HighlandsNational Park

L'Anse aux MeadowsNational Historic Site

Taylor HeadProvincial Park

NEWBRUNSWICK

LABRADOR

QUÉBEC

NEWFOUNDLAND

NOVASCOTIA

Maine(U S A)

PEI

É

É

É

É

É

#•#•

#•#÷

#•#÷

#•

#•#•

#•#•#•

#•

#•

#f

#•

St Ann's LoopBaddeck

Cabot & Viking Trails

25PLAN

YOUR TRIP It

Iner

arIes

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Experience the dramatic Fundy tides and its wildlife on this loop that could be tackled from Maine, USA. Cross the bridge to Campobello Island (p120), the childhood home of 32nd US president Franklin D Roosevelt, from Lubec, Maine, then visit the Roosevelt’s home that’s now a fascinating museum. The next day take the car ferry to fisher-funky Deer Island (p119) to check out Old Sow, the world’s second-largest natural tidal whirl-pool, before boarding another ferry that shuttles you to the mainland. Drive north to gritty yet cosmopolitan Saint John (p124), to fill up on fine dining, and warm up your hiking boots at Irving Nature Park (p126) the following day to see hundreds of birds and possibly seals. Spend the next few days really breaking your boots in throughout Fundy National Park (p130) and its extensive coastal trails. Continue north to Cape Enrage (p132) to take a tour of the lighthouse, sea kayak, or rappel down the rock cliffs that meet the rise and fall of the powerful tides. Move on to a day trip to the bizarre Hopewell Rocks (p132) formations, a must-see, but expect hundreds of visitors.

Now it’s time to change provinces. Drive across the border to Nova Scotia and down to Joggins (p82) to see the Unesco World Heritage fossil cliffs. Continue along driftwood-strewn Chignecto Bay to stop for lunch in Advocate Harbour (p81), then move onto Parrsboro (p80) to look for semiprecious stones on the beach and stay the night. Enjoy the views of the Cobequid Bay tides, which can change up to a foot per minute, until you reach Maitland (p77) where you can get into inflatable dinghies for an exhilarating rafting adventure on the tidal bore. Get your hiking boots on again around Scots Bay (p74) where you’ll be rewarded with some of the best views of the tides on this entire route. Reward your physical exertion with a day and night in Digby (p70) where you can dine on succulent scallops and explore Digby Neck (p69), home to the region’s most spectacular whale watching and even more hiking trails. From Digby, take the car ferry back to Saint John, New Brunswick, to complete the loop.

2 WEEKS

NEWBRUNSWICK

ATLANT I COCEAN

ScotsBay Maitland

Joggins

AdvocateHarbour

Digby

Lubec

IrvingNature

Park

FundyNational

Park

NOVA SCOTIA

PEI

CampobelloIsland

DeerIsland

CapeEnrage

#•Digby Neck

Maine(U S A)

É

É

É

É

É

É

#f

É Bay o fFund y

SaintJohn#•

#•

#•

#•

#•#•#•

#•

#•

#•#•#•

HopewellRocks

Parrsboro

Bay of Fundy Tidal Tour

26

PLAN YO

UR TRIP ItIn

erarIes

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Short on time but want to see as much as possible? Enjoy Halifax (p44) for a day be-fore swinging down to snap a few photos at Peggy’s Cove (p57), then stop for the night in World Heritage–listed Lunenburg (p60) and spoil yourself with dinner at Fleur de Sel. The next day cross via Bridgewater up Hwy 8 stopping for a day hike or a paddle in Kejimkujik National Park (p63), then stay in Annapolis Royal (p71) and take the town’s famous nighttime graveyard tour. Take a short drive to Digby (p70), perhaps enjoying a scallop lunch, then take the ferry to Saint John (p124), New Brunswick. Stay or camp in Fundy National Park (p130) or in adorable St Martins (p129), spending the next day hiking and continuing up the Fundy Coast to view the tides at Cape En-rage (p132) and Hopewell Rocks (p132). The next day drive across the Confedera-tion Bridge (p147) into Prince Edward Island (PEI) and Charlottetown (p147). Explore Anne’s Land around Cavendish (p163), have a lobster supper then take a tour of PEI’s east coast the following day before taking the car ferry back to Nova Scotia. From here it takes an hour and 45 minutes to drive back to Halifax.

8 DAYS

Maritime Drive-Through

Eat and drink your way through Halifax (p44), then take the car ferry to Wood Islands (p154), Prince Edward Island (PEI). Spend your first day in Canada’s cutest prov-ince exploring the east; stop at Rossignol Estate Winery (p154), quirky distilleries and stroll on gorgeous Basin Head Beach (p156). Dine in St Peter’s (p157) before basing yourself in Charlottetown (p147) for the next few days as you explore the cen-tral part of the province. Learn about Anne of Green Gables in Cavendish (p163), gorge on lobster in New Glasgow (p161), oysters in Malpeque (p165) and enjoy Charlotte-town itself by dining at Lot 30.

Spend a night or two in Summerside (p165) to explore western PEI with a drive up the scenic west coast through Acadian villages to lighthouse vistas. Gape at the giant windmills of North Cape (p168) be-fore looping back on the east coast, stopping to learn about Mi’kmaq culture on lovely Lennox Island (p168).

Take the Confederation Bridge (p147) to drive back to Halifax via the wine region around Tatamagouche (p83) or head down the Fundy Coast to Parrsboro (p80)as described in the Bay of Fundy Tidal Tour.

1 WEEK

NEWBRUNSWICK

ATLANT I COCEAN

NOVA SCOTIA

PEIRossignolEstateWinery

North Cape

CapeEnrage

HopewellRocks

#f

MaineU S A

#f

ConfederationBridge

FundyNational Park

KejimkujikNational Park

Halifax

Parrsboro

Charlottetown

St Peter’sSummerside

Cavendish

Malpeque

NewGlasgow

WoodIslands

Tatamagouche

St Martins

SaintJohn

AnnapolisRoyal

DigbyLunenburg

PeggysCove

#•#•

#•#•

#•

#•

#•

ÉÉ

É

ÉÉ

É

É

É

É

É

É

É

É

É

É

#•

#•#•#•

#•

#•

#•

#•

#•

#•

#•

#•

#•

Basin HeadBeach

#•

#•Lennox Island#•

Foodie LoopMaritime Drive-Through

Foodie Loop

27PLAN

YOUR TRIP It

Iner

arIes

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287

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuinSento Hot Baths/OnsenShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

Airport

Border crossingBART station

BusBoston T station

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro/Muni station

Petrol stationSubway/SkyTrain stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/ShelterBeach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Mudflat

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/TourSkiingSnorkelingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book

Map Legend

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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Celeste BrashCoordinating Author, Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island Trading Dungeness crab for lobster was no hardship on this, Celeste’s fourth grand tour of the Maritimes. Over the years she’s rafted the Fundy tidal bore, watched eagles nest, got stuck in a ‘moose jam,’ and climbed more lighthouses than she can count and yet, these provinces come up with new surprises on each visit. Celeste has written around 50 Lonely Planet guides. Find out more about

Celeste and her writing at www.celestebrash.com.

Caroline SiegNew Brunswick Caroline Sieg is a half-Swiss, half-American writer. Her relation-ship with New Brunswick started when she first lived in Boston and she began heading up to Canada to see the crazy high tides everyone told her about. She was delighted to return for Lonely Planet.

Karla Zimmerman Newfoundland & Labrador Karla has covered Canada coast to coast for Lonely Planet. Newfoundland is her current beat, and over the years she has paddled by icebergs, come nose-to-beak with puffins, hiked in polar bear territory and driven by most of Newfoundland’s 120,000 moose. She’s visited Dildo, Come by Chance and Heart’s Delight, and intends to get to Jerry’s Nose one day soon. Karla writes travel features for books, magazines and online outlets. She has

authored or co-authored several Lonely Planet guides to the USA, Canada, Caribbean and Europe. Follow her at twitter.com/karlazimmerman.

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

OUR WRITERS

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9833rd edition – Apr 2014ISBN 978 1 74220 294 5© Lonely Planet 2014 Photographs © as indicated 201410 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Read more about Karla at: lonelyplanet.com/members/karlazimmerman

Read more about Caroline at: lonelyplanet.com/members/carolinesieg

Read more about Celeste at: lonelyplanet.com/members/celestebrash

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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’