NEW CALEDONIA 17th – 24th September 2013

After 12 years in New Zealand, I decided it was high time to visit at least one of the small Pacific islands which are our among closest neighbours. New Caledonia was high on the list, primarily because of the Parc Provincial Rivière Bleue, ranked no.23 in “Top 100 Birding Sites of the World”, and home of the Kagu amongst other birds.

Our travel agent found us a deal for NZ$1569 each which included 7 nights bed and breakfast accommodation at the Nouvata Le Parc, a typical beachside resort hotel on Anse Vata in the capital, Noumea, and flights from Auckland. We hired a car for the week from Europcar for c.NZ$400, which was essential to get to most of the birding sites, and also very economical given that transfers to and from the airport alone would have cost us NZ$85 each.

Unlike most of the other islands of Melanesia which are of volcanic origin, New Caledonia (or at least Grand Terre, the main island) is a fragment of Gondwana. The island is c.400km long with a population around ¼ million, of which c.40% live in the capital, Noumea. It proved to be a relaxed, friendly, place with some great birds. Eating out was very expensive (so was eating in, a takeaway pasta meal for one and a small beer set me back NZ$40!), but otherwise things were reasonably priced.

We only dipped on one of the endemics, but I doubt we’re the first to miss the skulky New Caledonia Grassbird. Not only did we see all the others, we got great views of them too, most at multiple locations.

17th September, Tontouta Airport, Mt Khogi, Noumea Arrived 10.30am, White-faced Heron becoming the first bird of the trip as we taxied to the gate. Picked up our hire car and spent an hour in the airport car park where Dark Brown Honeyeater became our first endemic for the trip, closely followed by Striated Starling. We meandered our way slowly in the direction of Noumea, c.50km away, stopping at the Col de Pirogue mainly because it was easy to pull off the road, and the trees promised birds. We weren’t disappointed, Long-tailed Triller, Green-backed White-eye, Melanesian Cuckoo-shrike and Fan-tailed Gerygone being the stars. On then to Mt Khogi, one of the 3 main sites we’d read about before leaving home, and somewhere we planned to return to later in the week. Unfortunately, we discovered all the walking tracks were closed for some reason, but it was still worth the drive up as the road up and the car park produced New Caledonia Imperial Pigeon, New Caledonia Friarbird, Cloven-feathered Dove and more Melanesian Cuckoo-shrikes. We then went to find our hotel, arriving just before dark, c.6pm. Weather was sunny and hot, c.27°C.

(24 species, 9 lifers)

18th September, Parc Provincial Rivière Bleue After just over an hours drive from Noumea we reached the park entrance at 7am (opening time) and met our guide, Jean-Marc Meriot (jmmnc@mls.nc) whom we’d organised in advance. The park entry fee was cNZ$6 each, plus c.NZ$30 per hour for Jean-Marc. We were there until 4.45pm (15 mins before closing) so easily our most expensive day out, though well worth having JM with us, especially as the shuttle bus wasn’t running. He spoke very good English, knew where the birds hung out, had a battery of taped bird calls (which, while he freely used, the birds seemed to largely ignore and just get on with their own thing!), and was excellent company. Also with us for the day was Melissa, an Australian volunteering on the reserve. First stop was the “Sentier des Cagous”. As the name suggests, Kagu is what we were most looking for here, but to see 5, including a territorial squabble virtually at our feet was as incredible as the bird itself! Other birds here included Southern Shrikebill, Yellow-bellied Robin, Cloven-feathered Dove, Melanesian Flycatcher and Melanesian Whistler. Further stops at a variety of locations on the Rivière Bleue side of the park (another road

heads down the Rivière Blanche side) during the morning added more Kagus, Crow Honeyeater (a potentially difficult bird) Streaked Fantail, New Caledonia Myzomela, and the strange, tool-using, New Caledonia Crow amongst others. Things quietened down in the afternoon, a few sorties after the New Caledonia Parakeet failed to produce any hint of the birds (or much else), but gave us chance to look at some of the interesting plants. Returning to the park entrance we could reflect on a good day, even if the afternoon had been quiet, but there was still one more treat when 2 Horned Parakeets showed up near the car park. Weather much as the previous day.

(Today 30 species, 12 lifers, running total 40 species, 21 lifers)

Above; Road in Riviere Bleue Right; The Grand Kaori Tree

19th September, Ilot MaÎtre A small island (c.700mtrs x 50 mtrs) about 30 mins slow boat ride from Noumea, surrounded by coral reef. Probably not somewhere we’d have considered going had it not been that a day trip was included in our package deal, but it proved more than worthwhile. JM had advised us to avoid weekends, and whilst we didn’t have it completely to ourselves, it wasn’t too far off, especially arriving on the first boat at 8.30am. Bird highlights were Black-naped and Great Crested Terns, Osprey, 3 species of wader and Banded Rails everywhere! The introduced Common Waxbill was the days’ only lifer but also saw Yellow-lipped Seasnakes on land, a Turtle or two, and lots of (mostly unidentified) fish whilst snorkelling on the reef in great visibility (25 mtrs+). A day on which my low expectations were greatly exceeded! Another day in the high 20’s °C with wall to wall sunshine.

(Today 23 species, 1 lifer, running total, 51 species, 22 lifers)

Yellow-lipped Seasnake, Ilot MaÎtre

20th September, a day around Noumea An early morning (6.30-8.30am) look at Mt Khogi gave us our first Metallic Pigeons as well as other good birds such as Emerald Dove, Melanesian Cuckoo-shrike and New Caledonia Myzomela. A quick stop on the road behind the domestic airport at Magenta (which we’d been told was good for waders) produced nothing, but the tide was high so we went back later in the day finding just 6 Bar-tailed Godwits, lots of people and many dogs. Also visited the zoo (native birds in small enclosures a bit depressing, though the man on the gate rang around various bookshops for us to locate a bird calls CD we’d been unable to find and knew we needed to have any chance of the Grassbird which was very good of him), and the parkland here also produced Zebra Dove, not native, but living wild and a lifer! A small patch of mangroves on the edge of town, and Ouen Toro, a viewpoint not far from where we were staying, were also visited . Weather as previous days.

(Today 35 species, 2 lifers, running total 58 species, 24 lifers)

21st September, La Foa, Farino, and Les Grandes Fougeres Our longest drive of the week to Grand Terre’s other principal reserve, Les Grandes Fougeres nr Farino, about 2 hours from Noumea, and our only shot at the endemic Grassbird. A brief stop at the La Foa water treatment plant added Gray Teal and Australasian Grebe to the trip list, but regular stops playing calls on the road in to Les Grandes Fougeres sadly failed to produce any hint of the Grassbird. The reserve itself had some great walking trails in nice forest, and some good birds. New Caledonia Crow and Melanesian Flycatcher were both much more common than they’d been at Rivière Bleue, it was good also to find more Southern Shrikebills, and a close, if brief, view of New Caledonia (Blue) Goshawk by the entrance. Wendy also got a brief glimpse of New Caledonia Parakeet though I missed it (not an ideal scenario!!!) The best birds though were on the access road; still no hint of the Grassbird, but Horned Parakeet and Red-throated Parrotfinch both gave great views, the latter being our first sighting of this attractive endemic. Overcast and a little cooler than previous days (though still 20°C+) with some rain before we left the reserve.

(Today 42 species, 2 lifers, running total 64 species, 26 lifers)

22nd September, Rivière Bleue, Yaté and environs Morning at Rivière Bleue exploring the Rivière Blanche side of the park. Nowhere near as productive for birds as our first visit, though our two principal targets had both been found before we reached the reserve. Two New Caledonia Parakeets gave us great views where the access road turns off the Noumea to Yaté road, and Emerald Dove wandering around on the ground 100 mtrs before the car park. In the afternoon headed down to Yaté looking (unsuccessfully) for Red-bellied Fruit Dove, but instead found Touaourou beach a few kms to the south, where seabirds were within scope range of the shore. Wedge-tailed Shearwaters were in their thousands, and we also identified Brown Noddy and a female Lesser Frigatebird which cruised along the beach. What we might have seen from a boat we’ll never know! Mainly overcast, some sun late morning, some rain in the afternoon.

(Today 35 species, 2 lifers, running total 68 species, 28 lifers)

23rd September, Port Boisé, Goro and Yaté Some days just don’t turn out like you expect, and this was certainly one of those! Plan was to visit the Chutes des Madelaine first of all, a reserve apparently with a pretty waterfall and notable for its botanical, rather than ornithological, interest. After that we’d continue around the road loop shown on the map taking in the far south of the island, all the while looking out for the Red-bellied Fruit Dove and also exploring any further seawatching possibilities. The first change to this plan came on our arrival at Chutes des Madelaine to discover a chain fastened across the access road. No explanation, nobody to ask, but clearly the reserve was closed, today at least. The road south proved

interesting, and took a little longer than expected! We weren’t anticipating a major highway, but as it traversed the Goro nickel mine there were times when we wondered if we were actually on a public road at all, though works vehicles we came across gave us friendly waves rather than telling us to go away! Eventually we arrived at Port Boisé. Not the village the map had led us to believe existed, just a very nice eco-lodge right on the beach and a walking track. Had an enjoyable walk, though not exactly a bird filled one, and, on our return, we were alerted to the fact that we had a puncture (doubtless picked up through the nickel mine). The proprietors of the lodge kindly changed the tyre for us, so we had lunch there, the least we could do as they wouldn’t accept any payment for their help. The road back to Yaté was much better, but time was getting on and we didn’t see any obvious seawatching spots. Even though we were keen to get back to Noumea (the nearest place to get the tyre fixed) we took it slowly between Goro and Yaté as there were some great birds perched on wires, poles and trees right by the roadside, over 20 New Caledonia Imperial Pigeons and an incredible 5 New Caledonia Goshawks in c.20km! The day had been overcast, though mostly dry after very heavy overnight rain, with some heavy rain again in the late afternoon.

(Today 33 species, 0 lifers, running total 68 species, 28 lifers)

24th September, Noumea to Tontouta airport Just the drive to the airport for the late morning flight home, with a brief stop at the Col de Pirogues again for a last look at some of the great birds we’d seen during a wonderful weeks holiday. A great view of a Shining Bronze Cuckoo (which we’d heard all over the place, but only seen once) and our 2nd sighting of Red-throated Parrotfinch were the standout birds, but the introduced Wild Turkey provided the last addition to our trip list! The blue skies, high temperatures and sunshine had also returned, quite different to what we experienced back in New Zealand as a tropical storm brought trees down giving us an interesting drive home!

(Today 27 species, 0 lifers, Total for trip 69 species, 28 lifers)

Birds; Pacific Black Duck, small numbers seen in La Foa, Noumea, and roads further south. Gray Teal, 30+ at La Foa water treatment plant. Red Junglefowl, seen in a few places, those at the entrance to Les Grandes Fougeres probably as wild as any. Wild Turkey, introduced to New Caledonia in 1966, a group of 6 just south of the airport on 24th were the last addition to our trip list. Australasian Grebe, 1 at the La Foa water treatment plant. Wedge-tailed Shearwater*, thousands off Touaourou Beach and Port Boisé on 22nd and 23rd were a long overdue lifer. All dark phase birds as far as we could tell. Lesser Frigatebird, 1 female flew down the beach at Touaourou Beach on 22nd. Little Black Cormorant, 6-15 in mangroves nr Noumea, and 10 at Touaourou Beach. Great Cormorant, 7 flew over Magenta, Noumea on 20th. Colonised New Caledonia in 2002. Little Pied Cormorant, up to 7 in mangroves nr Noumea, also seen at Riviere Bleue, Goro Nickel mine and Touaourou Beach. White-faced Heron, the first bird of the trip at Tontouta Airport, also seen on the edge of Noumea, Ilot Maitre and at Touaourou Beach. Pacific Reef-Heron, usually seen singly at sites around Noumea (incl. Ilot Maitre), Touaourou Beach, and between Goro and Yate. Both dark and pale phase birds recorded. Rufous Night-Heron, singles nr Noumea on 18th and 20th, and an adult and juvenile at Touaourou Beach on 22nd. Osprey, nest with a chick on Ilot Maitre, 1 each nr the Noumea mangroves on 20th and Touaourou Beach on 22nd, then 3 at Port Boisé on 23rd. Whistling Kite, fairly common and widespread in small numbers. Swamp Harrier, singles seen between the airport and Noumea, at Riviere Bleue and nr Yate.

Brown Goshawk, 1 perched on wires a few km S of La Foa on 21st. New Caledonia Goshawk*, 1 nr the entrance to Les Grandes Fougeres on 21st, then an amazing 5 (incl. a juvenile) within c.20km of each other between Goro and Yate on 23rd. Buff-banded Rail, very common on Ilot Maitre, singles also seen at the entrance to Riviere Bleue and c.6km N of La Foa. Purple Swamphen, 2-3 on Ilot Maitre, then similar numbers recorded at various roadside locations on 3 other days. Kagu*, the star of the trip, though only seen on our first visit to Riviere Bleue. The bird we (and probably every other birder!) most wanted to see in New Caledonia. One of the first birds we saw (at the aptly named "Sentier des Cagous") and great views. At this spot we were to see 5 individuals, with a total of another 4 at other locations in the park later in the day. Really close up views, including 2 having a territorial dispute with raised crests etc. Really good to get such good views so easily. Very impressed!New Caledonia (ie World) population c.2,500 of which c.700 are in Parc Riviere Bleue.

Above and below; The amazing Kagu! Bird of the trip.

Pacific Golden-Plover, 6, Ilot Maitre. Bar-tailed Godwit, 1, Ilot Maitre, then up to 22 seen at Magenta, Noumea. Ruddy Turnstone, c.15, Ilot Maitre. Silver Gull, common in small numbers around Noumea, Ilot Maitre and Touaourou Beach. Brown Noddy, c.30 off Touaourou Beach. Black-naped Tern, c.20, Ilot Maitre. Great Crested Tern, small numbers on Ilot Maitre and south of Yate.

Rock Pigeon, a few in Noumea. Metallic Pigeon*, 5 on Mt Khogi on 20th, then 4 south of Noumea and 5 between Goro and Yate on 23rd. Spotted Dove, seen commonly around Noumea, also at Mt Khogi and along the roads toward the airport, La Foa and Riviere Bleue. Emerald Dove, 1, Mt Khogi on 20th and 1 nr entrance to Riviere Bleue on 22nd. Zebra Dove*, 1 in parkland around zoological gardens, Noumea, 20th. A seemingly rather uncommon introduction. Cloven-feathered Dove*, 1 or 2 seen at Mt Khogi, Riviere Bleue and the road toward Les Grandes Fougeres. New Caledonian Imperial-Pigeon*, widespread in small numbers. Seen at Mt Khogi, Riviere Bleue, Les Grandes Fougeres, Yate and Port Boisé (heard only). 21 (in groups of up to 6) seen perched on wires and trees between Goro and Yate on 23rd. Left; Metallic Pigeon, Mt Khogi Above; New Caledonia (Goliath) Pigeon, Riviere Bleue Rainbow Lorikeet, common and widespread in small numbers. Horned Parakeet*, 2 by entrance to Riviere Bleue late in the afternoon on the 18th, another 2 between Les Grandes Fougeres and Farino on 21st, and a single at Riviere Bleue on 22nd. New Caledonian Parakeet*, 2 at turn off from main road to Riviere Bleue on 22nd. Great views! A bird I was very pleased to see after Wendy had glimpsed one the previous day at Les Grandes Fougeres which I'd missed. Wendy was pleased to get better views too! Shining Bronze-Cuckoo, seen at Mt Khogi on 20th and Col de la Pirogue on 24th. Heard regularly at many other places. Glossy Swiftlet, common and widespread. Sacred Kingfisher, common and widespread. New Caledonian Myzomela*, a stunning looking little bird! 1 or 2 at Riviere Bleue on 18th, more common at Mt Khogi on 20th and Port Boisé on 23rd. Dark-brown Honeyeater*, the 1st endemic and 1st lifer of the trip in the airport carpark. Common and widespread. Barred Honeyeater*, 1 or 2 on each visit to Riviere Bleue, 2 on Mt Khogi on 20th, 1 through the Goro Nickel mine, and a few at Port Boisé. Crow Honeyeater*, one of the more tricky endemics to see, so we did well to see a total of 4 during our day at Riviere Bleue on 18th. Well named, it really does look like a cross between a crow and a honeyeater.

New Caledonian Friarbird*, seen in small numbers at most sites. Heard commonly at most sites out of town. Fan-tailed Gerygone*, seen in small numbers at most of the sites visited. White-breasted Woodswallow, seen in Riviere Bleue and Les Grandes Fougeres, also at roadside (usually perched) in several locations. Melanesian Cuckoo-shrike*, 1st seen at Col de la Pirogue on 17th, then subsequently at Mt Khogi on 20th (2), Les Grandes Fougeres on 21st (1) and Port Boisé on 23rd (1). New Caledonian Cuckoo-shrike*, a few at Riviere Bleue on 18th and 1 just south of Yate on 22nd. Long-tailed Triller*, singles seen at Col de la Pirogue on 17th and 24th, and at Riviere Bleue on 18th. New Caledonian Whistler*, a few at Riviere Bleue and Les Grandes Fougeres, one at Port Boisé. Rufous Whistler, 1 or 2 seen every day except 23rd. Gray Fantail, 1’s or 2’s at Col de la Pirogue, Riviere Bleue, Mt Khogi, La Foa and Port Boisé. Streaked Fantail*, small numbers at Riviere Bleue, Les Grandes Fougeres and Port Boisé. Southern Shrikebill*, 2 each at Riviere Bleue on 18th and Les Grandes Fougeres on 21st. Melanesian Flycatcher*, seen at Riviere Bleue, Les Grandes Fougeres (where it was much more numerous) and Port Boisé.

Above left; Streaked Fantail, Riviere Bleue, above right; New Caledonia Friarbird, Port Boisé

New Caledonian Crow*, 1st sighting was at Riviere Bleue on 18th where we saw a total of 6 birds incl. 2 which were colour banded. (R-W (presumably with a metal band somewhere) and OM-W). A bird famous for not only its use of tools, but also for the fact it will shape sticks to make the right tool, then carry them around to use. Fascinating behaviour which we were able to observe. Subsequently seen at Les Grandes Fougeres (where our count reached double figures!), just outside Noumea on 22nd, 5 close to Touaourou Beach on the same day, and 1 between Goro and Yate on 23rd.

Left; New Caledonia Crow carrying his “comfort stick”, Riviere Bleue

Yellow-bellied Robin*, common in Riviere Bleue on 18th, also seen at Les Grandes Fougeres on 21st and Col de la Pirogue on 24th. Welcome Swallow, 2 on Ilot Maitre on 19th. Red-vented Bulbul, seen on Mt Khogi on 17th and around Noumea on 20th and 24th. Green-backed White-eye*, Mt Khogi on 17th and 20th, Les Grandes Fougeres on 21st, Riviere Bleue on 22nd, Port Boisé on 23rd and Col de la Pirogue on 24th. Silver-eye, Ilot Maitre, Ouen Toro (Noumea), Les Grandes Fougeres and Col de la Pirogue. Striated Starling*, after finding our 1st in the airport carpark on arrival, it was a bird I subsequently expected to all over the place. However, our only other sightings were on Mt Khogi on 20th, 1 at Les Grandes Fougeres on 21st, and 4 between Goro and Yate on 23rd.

Common Myna, common around Noumea. House Sparrow, common around Noumea. Common Waxbill*, 1st seen on Ilot Maitre, then later at various sites around Noumea, and on the road below Les Grandes Fougeres. A bird introduced to New Caledonia. Red-throated Parrotfinch*, seen just twice. 2 gave us great views feeding on a lawn below Les Grandes Fougeres on 21st, then a single at Col de la Pirogue on the way back to the airport on 24th. Chestnut-breasted Munia, seen in the airport carpark on arrival, then with the Parrotfinches below Les Grandes Fougeres.

Butterflies; With no identification guide available to us, putting names to things was, for the most part, impossible. However, there was a large, iridescent, blue butterfly, with black wing edges we saw in several places that would appear to be Papilio montrouzieri. Also saw Monarch a few times. Other than that, there was a small blue, a small white, and others resembling the Grass Yellows and Crows of Australia.

Reptiles & Amphibians; 2 Yellow-lipped sea-snakes was seen on Ilot Maitre on land. Apparently this is normal behaviour, though it was something we had no idea of! Very interesting to see.

4 or 5 Turtles were seen from the boat trip to, and ashore on, Ilot Maitre, and another was seen at Port Boisé. The only one we got a view of good enough to identify was a Green Turtle on Ilot Maitre; there are 3 or 4 possibilities in New Caledonia.

Small skinks were seen on several occasions at different locations, but none were identified.

Fish; There was a great variety of fish seen whilst snorkelling on Ilot Maitre, though there were

only 3 we were able to put names to, Diagonal Banded Sweetlips, Harlequin Sweetlips and Briolea Monacle Bream. Additionally, a shoal of small flying fish were noted from the boat back to the mainland from there, and Mudskippers in the mangroves nr Noumea and at Port Boisé.

Above; Yellow-bellied Robin, Riviere Bleue

Mammals; New Caledonia has no native land mammals except for 9 species of bat of which we saw

precisely none! Neither did we see any marine mammals. We did however get a brief view of 2 introduced Rusa Deer nr Les Grandes Fougeres.

Flora; A huge, varied, and mostly endemic flora, though we didn’t explore it much at all! Did note a

few plants and trees at Riviere Bleue, including 2 carnivorous species, the Pitcher plant, Nepenthes vieillardii, and the Sundew, Drosera neocaledonica. A tree called Kauri, and related to the NZ tree of the same name is Agathis lanceolata, and another of the attractions of the park is the Houp tree, Montrouzieri cauliflora. One specimen has an Araucaria (a genus for which New Caledonia is the world centre) growing up through it. Les Grandes Fougeres translates to the large ferns, and contained many tree ferns. There was of course, much else!

Left; Pitcher plant, Nepenthes vieillardii, Riviere Bleue Nigel Milius & Wendy Hare, October 2013.