ALUMNI MAGAZINE OF THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA

No. 61, September 2012

SALTAn Essential

Element

Salt: An Essential ElementThe history and uses of salt

6 Applying Sichuan Flavor Principles to Reduce SaltUsing “mala” flavor to lower salt

10

A World Diversity FestivalA campus-wide celebration

16Sensory Perception of SaltMysteries of this fundamental flavor enhancer

8

Across the PlazaTasting Success by Cutting Salt | Following the Presidential

Trail | Creating the CIA Bakery Café | Chow Down at the

Chowder Cook-off

12

Education for LifeWorlds of Flavor | Innovation through Leadership

Book Shelf | Kudos

21

Gifts at WorkBridging the Gap By Giving Back | Keeping the CIA a “Well-Oiled” Machine | Why Give? | Giving’s Impact

26

Class NotesThen & Now | Class Notes | In Memoriam

30

22

1812

4

It seems impossible that something you’ve enjoyed since childhood can go from

being a comfort and a delicious presence in your life, to being life-threatening.

But that is what has happened to salt. It was brought to us from the sea in its

most basic form, and over the years, we’ve pushed the boundaries of salt’s use

until now, it is the “seasoning non grata” of the 21st century.

Salt has so many positive qualities. Before refrigeration, it was used to ensure

food safety through its role in brining, pickling, and fermentation. But as we

became industrialized and food became mass-produced, manufacturers used

it to enhance the flavor of highly processed food. And now, as a nation, we are

discovering we are over-salted. We appear to have a penchant for layering our

diet with processed, ready-to-eat food; hidden sources of salt; and an alarming

lack of fresh victuals.

Salt is so common that we don’t even notice it unless it’s riding on the surface of

a chip or French fry. The salt added to our processed food barely breaks through

our conscious awareness. Most of us have to read a package to understand just

how much salt we are ingesting.

A while back, it became clear that my taste buds were enjoying salt much more

than my body was, and I had to limit my intake. I eat mostly fresh foods now,

but I’m not afraid to add a little salt to finish off a dish. That sparing sprinkle

isn’t where the danger lies; it’s in the processed food. I thought I’d never get used

to the taste of things without a heavy salting, but frankly, I’ve discovered the

sweetness of cauliflower, the earthiness of potatoes, the lightness of salmon, and

the snappy tang of tomatoes.

Awareness is a good thing for both individuals and industry. So, this issue of

mise en place is about awareness and flavor, and how to marry those two elements

to create healthy, tasty meals.

Enjoy!

Nancy Cocola, Editor

n_cocola@culinary.edu

Mission Mise en place is the college magazine for alumni and friends of The Culinary Institute of America, and reflects its principles and core values. Its mission is to foster a mutually beneficial and enduring relationship between the CIA, its alumni, and friends by:

Providing information of interest about the college, its alumni, faculty, and students.

Presenting substantive, balanced, and accurate coverage of major issues and events concern-ing the college as well as highlighting alumni leadership and contributions to the foodser-vice industry.

Creating a forum to help alumni network and build community.

©2012 The Culinary Institute of America All rights reserved.

Photography: Shirley Cheng, Ben Fink, Keith Ferris, Michael Gutowski, Kristen Loken, Phil Mansfield, and Pauline Stevens.

mise en place® No. 61, September 2012

Nancy W. Cocola, Editor

Leslie Jennings, Designer

Dr. Tim Ryan ’77 President

Dr. Victor Gielisse Vice President— Advancement and Business Development

Mark Ainsworth ’86

Brad Barnes ’87

Sue Cussen

Heather Kolakowski ’02

Chet Koulik

Dr. Chris Loss ’93

Francisco Migoya

Douglass Miller ’89

Anthony Nogales ’88

Jennifer Stack ’03

Editorial Board

Mark Ainsworth ’86

David Kamen ’88

Shelly Loveland

Natalie Singer (student)

Felicia Zammit

Contributing Writers

Cover inspired by KatsushiKa hoKusai’s the Great Wave.1829–32.

mise en place no.61, September 2012 5

The Bakery Café by illy, St. Helena, CAWhen you first enter the CIA at Greystone,

don’t be surprised if you find yourself lured

by the intoxicating smells of baked bread,

cookies, and other treats being made in

our new Bakery Café by illy. The menu

features breakfast pastries and savory lunch

items prepared by our baking & pastry arts

students and faculty as part of the college’s

degree program. In addition, the café

has a full selection of illy specialty coffee

drinks, Dammann Frères teas, house-

made beverages, wines, and microbrews.

Students operating the café will learn about

coffee from history to cultivation and from

economics to preparation techniques.

The CIA Bakery Café, San Antonio, TXComplete with a large picture window

that gives patrons a peek into the college’s

teaching kitchens, the CIA Bakery Café is

a destination for visitors at the revitalized

Pearl Brewery site in San Antonio. The

café offers a variety of light fare that

includes soups, salads, and sandwiches, and

features a selection of classic pastries made

with specialty items from Latin America

and Mexico. Led by Department Chair of

Baking and Pastry Arts Alain Dubernard

and Jake Griffin ’08, a graduate of the

college’s associate and bachelor’s degree

programs, the CIA Bakery Café offers San

Antonio residents a quick and easy way to

enjoy a light meal at the world’s premier

culinary college.

NAO Restaurant, San Antonio, TXThe newest addition to the pantheon of CIA

restaurants and cafés is the stunning and

inviting NAO restaurant. Led by Executive

Chef/Instructor in Culinary Arts Geronimo

Lopez-Monascal, NAO is offering foods that

reflect a culinary tapestry of Latin ingredients,

traditions, and culture. A spectacular showcase

for flavors of the New World, the menu features

Latin American dishes rooted in tradition and

creatively reinterpreted using new perspectives,

ingredients, and techniques. CIA students

will prepare fresh, seasonal plates that pay

homage to the great cuisines of Latin America.

Derived from the Latin root “neo,” meaning to

weave or intertwine, as well as the English root

meaning something new, NAO is a celebration

of tradition as well as innovation.

since you were a student at the Cia, we’ve made changes to the curriculum, facilities,

and student life offerings. and with a Cia education now available in new york,

texas, California, and singapore, it’s become necessary to provide even more

restaurant operations experience for our students. so, we’ve added some exciting

cafés and restaurants to our repertoire. if you get the chance, stop in to one of our

new student-run operations and taste the Cia!

If you’re ever in Italy driving

towards Rome from the north,

you might well be traveling

on the Via Salaria, or “salt

highway.” Scholars theorize that

the location of this ancient city

was governed by its proximity to

the salt marshes of Ostia, a town

at the mouth of the Tiber River

close to Rome. The far-reaching

importance of salt to people

throughout the ancient world—

and, in turn, economic, social, and political development—cannot

be overstated. This simple yet complex compound has been used

to extract moisture from perishable high-protein items as well as to

preserve and season our food. Of greater importance, then and now,

is that salt is a necessary nutrient that regulates the balance of fluid

in all living things.

The Origins of SaltSalt is a mixture of two minerals, sodium and chloride. Whether

evaporated from shallow ponds and marshes or mined from

underground deposits, it is marine-based. Windmills, an Arab

invention, have been used to pump seawater into shallow, clay-

bottom ponds throughout the Mediterranean for centuries. The water

is evaporated with the help of the sun and wind, leaving a mineral

whose flavor and color is derived from the clay, algae, and volcanic

ash in the environment.

Salt in the KitchenBecause of its purity and ease of use, kosher salt is used in most

professional kitchens. Originally named for its ability to draw out

blood and moisture in the koshering process, this salt’s crystals are

larger in size than normal table

salt crystals. During processing,

kosher salt is crystallized, giving

it a larger flake with flat sides that

adhere very well to food. Because

of its size, kosher salt absorbs

larger amounts of moisture than

table salt, making it beneficial in

curing and seasoning. Although

many brands of kosher salt are

pure salt, others have additives,

so it’s wise to check the label.

Salts from the SeaIn addition to kosher and table salt, sea salt is increasingly being

used in professional kitchens. Sought after for its delicate nuances in

flavor and texture, sea salt is available in a myriad of colors, flavors,

and prices; specialized varieties can sell for well over $100 a pound

and often taste like the environment from which they are harvested.

Flavors can be slightly sweet, sour, sulfury, smoky, or briny. More

expensive than its counterparts, sea salt should be used with a light

hand. It is often wasted when dissolved into a soup or vinaigrette and

is most efficiently applied to food as a finishing salt, at the very end.

A final dusting on a salad or a sprinkle over perfectly cooked seafood

adds a subtle flavor and textural contrast that strengthens and refines

the dish. Seasoning in this way uses less salt, which is beneficial to

those on a low-sodium diet.

Some interesting varieties of sea salt include:

Fleur de sel de Camargue

Hand-raked from the southern French waters of Camargue, this salt

has a dry, fine texture that is almost brittle.

By Mark Ainsworth ’86

SALTAn Essential Element

hawaiian alaea sea salt

Resembling the light brown alaea clay that is added during harvesting,

this salt is mellow in flavor and not very harsh. Because of the more

than 30 minerals found in the clay, the salt is thought to provide many

health benefits. Traditionally, this salt has been used in ceremonial

blessings.

trapani sea salt

Originating in Trapani, Sicily, this very pure, white, high-quality salt

is gathered in wheelbarrows, piled high, and covered in roofing tiles

until it is perfectly dry. Locally, it is used to cure wheels of sheep’s milk

ricotta cheese.

Jurassic sea salt

Marketed as a salt from the time of the dinosaur era when the sea

covered what is now the state of Utah, Jurassic sea salt is invigorating,

with an interesting texture and flavor.

Japanese suzushio sea salt

Found in the Ishikawa Prefecture (one of the governmental

jurisdictions of Japan), this premium salt has distinctive mineral

properties and is damp in texture. It graces the tables of exclusive

tempura restaurants, and the salt’s limited production adds to its

mystique and value.

smoked sea salt

Produced throughout the world, smoked sea salt has interesting

characteristics that come not only from the salt, but also from alder

wood and even old French oak wine barrels used in the smoking

process.

Salt and HealthThe majority of sodium in the typical American diet comes from

processed foods. The average American consumes more than twice

the United States Department of Agriculture’s recommendation of

2,300 mg (about 1 teaspoon) per day. For those with hypertension

(high blood pressure) or kidney ailments, a sodium-restricted diet

is important; others should be aware of the acceptable level of salt

intake.

You can reduce sodium in cooking by using fresh, bold, and intense

flavors, or by adding fresh herbs and spices to increase the food’s

appeal. When done correctly, less salt is needed to round off and finish

the dish. Vinegars, fruit and vegetable juices, and various sweeteners

also serve to reduce the amount of sodium required. Utilizing and

balancing the five basic tastes of sweet, sour, salty, bitter, and umami

creates focused and refined flavors.

Curing SalmonAside from its typical uses in the kitchen and dining room, salt is still

used to cure and brine a variety of items, including salmon. To prepare

cold-smoked salmon, pack the fillets in a mixture of 2 parts kosher salt

to 1 part brown sugar and a handful of spices. Following your local

health department regulations, cure the fillet under refrigeration for

about a day to draw out the moisture and make it safe to eat. After it

is cured, wash off the salt and sugar and leave the fish to dry to form

a skin, or pellicle; smoke sticks best to dry surfaces. Cold smoking is

best achieved at a temperature between 40 and 90 degrees F. There

are many reasonably priced units on the market specifically designed

for producing cold-smoked salmon. Quality characteristics include a

good flavor balance of salt, sweet, smoke, and fish. The salmon should

always be sliced thinly and served simply.

Vital to our Past and PresentFrom the days when people stepped out of the garden and began

relying on more than just vegetables to eat, salt has been an integral

and necessary part of daily life. Its ability to inhibit bacterial growth

allowed civilizations to focus less on food sustenance and more on

advancements and growth in other areas. In today’s modern kitchen,

we take salt for granted, but if it were to suddenly vanish, its loss to the

culinary world would be immeasurable.

Mark Ainsworth, PC III, CHE is a professor in culinary arts at the CIA.

www.ciaalumninetwork.com8

The title of this article may be somewhat misleading. We all know

that salt tastes, well, salty. But what does salt do for our perception

of flavor? That question has baffled both chefs and food scientists

for many years and we still do not fully understand the mechanics

of how salt functions.

Salt, or saltiness, is one of our primary tastes. We experience

it on our tongues and nowhere else. We cannot hear saltiness,

nor can we smell it. And while we can see it on a pretzel or

French fry, we cannot see it in a soup or sauce. For all that we

know, or think we know, about salt, we do not know how salt

functions either chemically or physically. And while we do have

some understanding, an actual receptor for salt has not yet been

identified. Clearly, discovering this elusive receptor would be a

significant key to helping us modulate how we use salt and lower

the amount of sodium we take in on a daily basis.

We know that salt acts as a flavor enhancer, mitigates bitter

elements, and makes foods taste richer and fuller. As chefs, we

often describe salt as a volume knob. Salt turns up the volume on

flavors that are already there. When driving down the highway,

if the highway noises overpower the radio we can simply turn

the volume up. But if we get to that point on the highway where

the local stations start to fade out, turning up the volume will not

help. Similarly, salt will turn up the volume on flavors that are

already well-developed. But if a food does not have well-developed

flavor, salt will only make that food salty, and not delicious.

Flavor development depends on an interaction of ingredients in

much the same way that good music depends on the interaction

of all of the instruments in an orchestra. Take the sound of a solo

violin. While nice, it is unadorned and straightforward. But add

a cello, harpsichord, and perhaps a soft flute to that violin and it

sounds more, well, violin-y.

Everyone knows that salt has been in the news lately, with new

recommended daily intake levels that may seem impossible to

achieve. The current Food and Drug Administration (FDA)

guidelines suggest that the average American should consume

no more than 2,300 mg of sodium per day—the equivalent of

about one teaspoon of table salt. This represents a more than

30% reduction in the average of 3,400 mg of sodium that most

Americans consume today. The challenge inherent in this type of

reduction is that the most significant sources of sodium are hidden

in our diets, and are not the salt that people add at the table or

when cooking.

Sensory Perception of SaltBy David Kamen ’88

Hidden IngredientTo understand hidden sodium

sources, one must

understand the

other functions

of salt that go

beyond flavor

enhancement.

Salt is a key

ingredient used

to inhibit bacterial

growth, regulate

fermentation, strengthen

proteins, and attract moisture.

And while we do not often

think of cheese, bread,

chicken breasts, or pork

chops as being significant

sources of sodium, they

contribute significantly to the

amount of salt that we

ingest every day.

Cheese makers

use salt to

control the

texture of their

cheese. More

salt makes a

chewier cheese

because of how

salt strengthens the

protein structure. Salt in

cheese works in conjunction with acidity,

alkalinity, and moisture content to increase shelf life by reducing

the number of unwanted bacteria and controlling the fermentation

process. A one-ounce slice of mozzarella cheese contains 177 mg of

sodium.

Bread makers also take advantage of the same properties. Today’s

consumers are craving more “artisan” style breads with thicker crusts

and deeper flavors. This can only be achieved by including significant

amounts of salt into the dough to help form strong gluten strands,

mise en place no.61, September 2012 9

which make the bread brown and crusty on the outside,

and chewy on the inside. Salt also controls the amount

of fermentation that the yeast produces, another critical

control in the creation of great bread. A typical four-ounce

French dinner roll has a shocking 609 mg of sodium.

Even the innocent boneless skinless chicken breast is

not immune to a hidden sodium attack. In an effort to

mitigate the drying effects of cooking chicken to the

high doneness temperatures recommended by

the FDA (165 degrees F.), many producers

are pumping chicken parts with up to a

15% solution of water, salt, and sodium

phosphate, among other possible

elements. The salt and sodium

phosphate bond with protein

molecules to trap moisture,

even at internal temperatures

of 170 degrees F. and higher.

A four-ounce portion of

“enhanced” or “moist

and tender” chicken

breast has 375 mg

of sodium.

Given this

information,

a simple

chicken and

mozzarella

sandwich

on a French

roll (without any

toppings or condiments)

contains 1,161 mg of sodium, or nearly

half of the recommended daily intake.

Add a bag of potato chips at 160 mg of

sodium and a half-sour pickle at another

260 mg, and you are consuming 1,581 mg

for one meal.

So, how do we understand how an item

like the sodium-rich French roll (609 mg

of sodium) doesn’t taste salty, while the bag

of potato chips (at a mere 160 mg) does? One

theory suggests it is the interaction of the sodium with the

other components of the product that hides its saltiness.

Nonetheless, it would appear that topical salt has a greater

impact than dissolved salt.

Reducing Salt Intake by Enhancing Salt SensationSea salts are growing in popularity. Many people are spending

the equivalent of more than $100 per pound on fancy sea salts

to use as topical finishing agents for salads, fried foods, and

even caramel and chocolate. It is suggested that because of

its random crystal structure, the salt melts on the palate at a

different rate, leaving the diner with a longer salt sensation

than they would have gotten from either table or kosher salt.

However, sensory evaluation tests conducted at the CIA

concluded that once a sea salt is dissolved into a matrix like

mashed potatoes, chicken broth, tomato juice, or lima bean

purée, diners had a difficult time distinguishing them from

simple kosher salt. Furthermore, the thicker and more complex

the matrix, the more salt it took before tasters considered the

product “salty enough.”

Another school of thought is that much of the topical salt in

foods like potato chips or French fries is not dissolved on

the tongue, but rather swallowed intact. This would amount

to wasted sodium because it does not have the opportunity to

impact our flavor perception, but does become absorbed into

our bloodstream. Given this, researchers are experimenting

with smaller crystal sizes that will dissolve faster on our

palates, thus giving more bang for the sodium buck. By

creating a salt crystal that is smaller and will dissolve faster,

manufacturers can use less salt to create the same flavor

perception.

Interestingly enough, although sodium is targeted, it is thought

that the chloride gives us the flavor-enhancing quality of salt.

Salt substitutes are often made of potassium chloride instead

of sodium chloride. These potassium-based salts have a

similar flavor perception but are often associated with a bitter

aftertaste. While potassium-based salt is a potentially effective

alternative flavor enhancer, its functionality is still being

investigated.

Despite what we do know about sodium, there is still a great

deal more to learn. One thing that is clear is that sodium

reduction is not going to be as simple as finding an alternative

flavor enhancer. Because of salt’s functionality as an ingredient,

we are going to need a deeper understanding of how salt and

food systems interact. Until then, we should carefully monitor

our diets and our ingredients for hidden sodium sources and

think strategically about how we add salt to our food.

David Kamen, PC III is currently project manager for CIA Consulting.

www.ciaalumninetwork.com10

CIA Professor of Culinary Arts Shirley Cheng is no stranger to the

Sichuan peppercorn and its flavor-enhancing properties. In a recent

article for mise en place magazine, she wrote about Huajiao: The Secret to

Sichuan Cuisine. (See MEP 52, June 2010). Here she revisits the Sichuan

peppercorn and the flavor principles of “mala”—which combine the

Sichuan peppercorn (ma) with

chili pepper (la)—to see if it

can be applied to reduce salt

in the quick-service restaurant

favorite, the French fry. Her

preliminary research suggests

that the mala flavor profile

can be incorporated into

a seasoning blend to lower

the amount of salt needed to

appeal to the everyday diner.

Putting Flavor First to Lower SaltSalt, also known as sodium

chloride, is a ubiquitous and

versatile seasoning found in kitchens around the world. As health risks

associated with dietary sodium becomes increasingly evident, retail

and foodservice operations are working to lower salt levels in popular

foods without compromising customer satisfaction or overall flavor.

Chef Cheng has taken a flavor-focused culinary strategy to address

this issue, and is using the Sichuan mala flavor profile to season the

popular quick-service offering. Her objective sensory studies indicate

that Sichuan peppercorns and chili peppers can be incorporated

into seasoning blends resulting in the use of 33% less salt while not

compromising “liking.”

Salt’s Role in Flavor and HealthSodium chloride (NaCl) is an important seasoning used to augment

the flavor of food. Salt can enhance flavors in meat, suppress

bitterness in vegetables, and increase consumption and enjoyment

of nutritious food. It also preserves meat and vegetables, facilitates

Applying Sichuan Flavor Principles to Reduce Salt

protein denaturation, increases water-binding capacity, and controls

fermentation in many preparations. However, it has long been known

that a diet high in salt is positively correlated with hypertension and

an increase in the risk of heart disease, stroke, and kidney disease. So,

although the recommended daily allowance set by the Department

of Agriculture’s Health

and Human Services is

2,300 mg of sodium, recent

recommendations have been

made to lower the average

daily sodium intake to

1,500 mg.

Strategies for Reducing Sodium in Menu ItemsMajor sources of sodium

in the U.S. diet come from

“processed” and restaurant

food, comprising 70–85% of

sodium intake for the average

American. In response to

health concerns, the food industry has been researching sodium-

reduction strategies to provide “healthier” options while maintaining

consistency in quality and taste. Some examples of these include:

• Reducing salt gradually over time

• Using lower-sodium salt options such as potassium chloride and

naturally low-sodium sea salts

• Reducing portion size

• Incorporating produce with inherently lower sodium levels into

recipes

• Incorporating more herbs and spices to enhance flavor

However, objective sensory testing and consumer evaluation of

these strategies, by chefs and scientists collectively, are needed to

demonstrate efficacy and feasibility of these approaches.

mise en place no.61, September 2012 11

Opportunity for “Mala” to Lower SodiumChinese regional cuisines are increasing in popularity, but are not

fully understood among American culinary professionals. Mala is a

compound flavor profile that distinguishes Sichuan cuisine from those

of other regions in China. This signature flavor of Sichuan cuisine is

applied to broths, meat, fish, and vegetables. The sensory experience

involves two simultaneous chemisthetic effects: numbing or “cooling”

due to the sanshool in the huajiao, and “heating” due to the capsaicin

in the chili. Mala-seasoned dishes can be described as producing

“flavor waves” of alternating burning and numbing sensations that

stimulate appetite and enhance enjoyment.

Chef Cheng hypothesized that mala could be incorporated into a

seasoning blend for French fries, allowing for a reduction in salt

without a negative impact on enjoyment. She chose French fries

because they are a popular comfort food in the U.S. and one of the

most common items found on restaurant menus. In addition, the

National Salt Reduction Initiative established by New York City’s

Department of Health and Hygiene has identified French fries as a

high-risk food that requires a 30% reduction in sodium from 347 mg

to 240 mg, over the next three years.

To test her hypothesis, Chef Cheng worked with Dr. Chris Loss

’93 to design an objective sensory study evaluating the effects of

her seasoning blend on overall “liking” and “perceived saltiness”

of French fries. Sensory ballots were created that used a line scale

to convert consumers’ perceptions of liking and taste intensity into

a numeric value. This enables statistical analysis to be applied to

determine if the observed effects are “significant.” French fries

were seasoned with a standard ratio of salt (5.7g of salt/lb of French

fries), and compared to those seasoned with less salt (3.8g of salt +

1.9g of mala spice blend/lb of French fries). The mala blend used is

considered mild by traditional Sichuan cuisine standards.

Seventeen culinary students participated in the blind taste test.

Significant differences in liking and salty taste intensity were

determined using a statistical method referred to as an analysis of

variance. The French fries seasoned with mala were equally well-liked

compared to the traditional salt-only seasoning. However, the perceived

saltiness was significantly lower for the mala sample compared to the

traditional salt-only seasoning.

In addition, general comments provided by the tasters (qualitative

data) during the taste test indicated that the mala spice blend added

a welcome layer of complexity that improved the overall eating

experience of the French fries. Descriptors of mala-seasoned French

fries included “refreshing,” “savory,” “satisfying,” “more depth,” and

“lemony tingle.”

To determine if the results can be replicated, these tests will be

conducted on a broader population of consumers. However, in a

test with a different group of tasters, Chef Cheng obtained similar

results when seasoning fried chicken with a mala spice blend. These

preliminary results augur well for a larger study that she is planning to

conduct with additional funding through the CIA Menu Research and

Flavor Discovery Initiative. Chef Cheng will attempt to find the ideal

level of mala seasoning and salt to make the greatest impact on flavor

and sodium reduction. She will also evaluate her spice formulations at

the college’s fast-casual dining setting for students, the Courtside Café.

This approach is an example of how chefs and scientists can work

together to better understand their consumers and the flavor

functionality of ingredients. These results should lend confidence

to chefs who have their own flavor-focused culinary strategies for

lowering salt in foods.

References for the research in this article can be found online at

http://menuscience.ciachef.edu/node/529.

All research was conducted by CIA Professor of Culinary Arts Shirley Cheng.

salt, siChuan pepperCorn, and Chili a less salty but equally satisFyinG FrenCh Fry

www.ciaalumninetwork.com12

Tasting Success by Cutting Salt

25 Science-Based Strategies and Culinary Insights

The Big Picture: Total Diet Focus

1. Downsize your portionsA good rule of thumb is that the more calories a meal has, the more

sodium it has. So skip the supersize. Share a dish when dining out.

You can cut your salt—and trim your waist.

2. Practice “produce first”Our bodies need more potassium than sodium. Fruits and vegetables

are naturally low in sodium, and many fruits and vegetables are good

sources of potassium. Filling your plate with them will boost your

potassium and shift the sodium-potassium balance in your favor.

3. Get freshProcessed foods and prepared foods are the greatest sources of sodium

in the American diet—75% by some estimates. Choose unprocessed and

minimally processed foods.

4. Embrace healthy fats and oilsUnfortunately, the big low-fat and no-fat product push in the ’90s

wasn’t rooted in sound science. Many product developers cut both

the good and bad fats out and increased levels of sugar and sodium

By The Department of Nutrition, Harvard School of Public Health & The Culinary Institute of America

The Institute of Medicine’s recent report, Strategies to

Reduce Sodium Intake in the United States, focuses on big-

picture strategies for reining in America’s salt habit. While

the report’s recommendations represent an essential step

forward, there are many things that individuals, chefs, and

organizations can do right now to reduce sodium.

Consumers can use these tips when they cook at home,

shop in the supermarket, or choose a meal at their favorite

restaurant. Chefs and product developers can tap these

ideas in the professional kitchen. Many of these guidelines

offer a “stealth health” approach to sodium reduction—ways

that sodium can be reduced with no change or minimal

change to consumer food experiences or choices. Others

suggest ways to rebalance and re-imagine food choices as

well as introduce new foods that can easily translate into

satisfying meals. No sodium reduction effort will succeed

if it undermines the flavor of our foods and the role that

food plays in our lives. That’s why we urge a wide-ranging,

innovative approach to sodium reduction, one that puts as

much emphasis on culinary insight, taste, and flavor as on

the scientific and public health imperatives.

mise en place no.61, September 2012 13

to maintain consumer acceptance. Embrace healthy fat—it might be

just the ticket to make produce-centric—and sodium-reduced—cooking

more appealing.

Salt, Perception, and Psychology

5. Employ stealth healthFor many foods and preparations, the average person can’t detect

differences in sodium levels, including reductions of up to as much

as 25 percent. That’s great news. Many food manufacturers and

restaurant companies have already made—or are in the process of

making—substantial cuts in sodium that their customers will not be

able to detect.

6. Retrain your taste budsStudies have found that we can shift our sense of taste to enjoy foods

with lower levels of sodium. One key to success: make the changes

gradually and consistently over a period of time. Try combining a

reduced sodium version of a favorite product with a regular version in

proportions that gradually favor the reduced sodium version. As time

goes on, you won’t miss the salt.

7. Try a little romanceInstead of calling something “low sodium,” try language like “with a

touch of sea salt,” “citrus-infused,” or “garlic-scented,” and you’ll likely

entice more people to taste and enjoy reduced-sodium dishes.

Know Your Salt Facts, Ask Questions

8. Target high-volume sodium sourcesKnow which ingredients and individual foods are high in sodium, and

eat them sparingly. Salt is ubiquitous in the American diet, but this top

10 list of food sources of sodium is a good place to focus.

Meat-topped Pizza White bread Processed cheese

Hot dogs Spaghetti with sauce Ham

Catsup Cooked rice White rolls

Flour tortillas

9. Scan the labelLook for foods with less than 300 milligrams of sodium per serving.

But pay attention to serving sizes, as they are often unrealistically

small. A good rule of thumb for label reading is to look for no more

than one milligram of sodium per one calorie of food.

10. Compare, compare, compareSodium levels vary widely for the same or similar grocery items.

Compare brands of processed food, including breads, cured meats,

cheeses, and snack foods, choosing those with the lowest levels of

sodium that still taste good. You’ll find that there’s a surprising degree

of variation from brand to brand.

11. Watch out for hidden sodium“Fresh” and “natural” meats and poultry may be injected with salt

solutions as part of their processing. Manufacturers are not required

to list the sodium content on the label. Find out whether your favorite

brand has been treated with a salt solution by asking the grocer or

butcher, or calling the toll-free consumer hotline on the product’s

label.

12. Seek low-salt menu options when dining outIt is common to find sandwiches and fast-food entrées with 2,000–

2,500 milligrams of sodium per serving—as much as or more than

a day’s recommended sodium intake. Check restaurant websites for

sodium information before you head out, or ask your server to steer

you to low-salt choices.

Flavor Strategies and Culinary Insights

13. Farm for flavorAt a time when we have “over-delivered” on the promise of affordable

calories, and both salt and sugar (and all refined carbohydrates) are

turning out to have serious negative health consequences, we need

to refocus our attention on enhancing natural flavors. This means

growing more flavorful tomatoes at the same time we try to reduce

the sodium in tomato soup.

14. Know your seasons and your local farmerShop for raw ingredients with maximum natural flavor, thereby

avoiding the need to add as much, if any, sodium. Seek out peak-of-

season produce from farmers’ markets and your local supermarket.

15. Spice it upOne of the easiest ways to reduce the need for added salt is through

the use of ingredients such as spices, dried and fresh herbs, roots like

garlic and ginger, citrus, vinegars, and wine. These flavor enhancers

create excitement on the palate—and can do it with less sodium.

www.ciaalumninetwork.com1414

16. Go nuts for healthy fats in the kitchenUsing the right healthy fats—from roasted nuts and avocados to

olive, canola, soybean, and other oils—can help make up for any

flavor loss from using less salt. Roasted nuts ground with spices

extend and leverage small amounts of salt, such as in the Middle

Eastern spice mixture dukkah.

17. Try the flavor multiplier—umamiFoods that are naturally high in a compound called L-glutamate

trigger our umami taste receptors. Cooked chicken, fish, beef, and

soybeans are naturally high in umami, as are mushrooms, tomatoes,

seaweed, carrots, and Chinese cabbage. Incorporating these foods

into meals can add a delicious depth of flavor without adding

salt. Some foods that are high in umami are also high in sodium,

including soy sauce, fish sauce, aged cheeses, miso, and anchovy

paste. Use these ingredients in small amounts instead of adding salt,

reducing the overall sodium in the dish.

18. Use cooking methods that help spare the salt Take the time to learn some simple cooking techniques that can

make your cooking less reliant on sodium. Searing, sautéing, and

roasting all build flavor.

19. Spend that sodium budget wiselySave your “sodium budget” to enhance the flavors of produce, whole

grains, nuts and legumes, and other healthy ingredients versus

“overspending” it on salty snacks, heavily processed food, high-

sodium fast foods, and other foods that we should be consuming in

smaller amounts.

20. Watch your condimentsPickles, capers, cured meats, grated aged cheeses, mustard, catsup,

soy sauce, hot sauce, smoked fish, and other condiments and

specialty foods all bring added satisfaction to the table. In some

cases, reduced sodium versions of these are now available; in other

cases, we can just use them more sparingly.

21. Go global Look to global culinary traditions—from Europe and the

Mediterranean, Latin America, Asia, and Africa—for healthy ideas.

Because many of these world culinary traditions build up flavor

in such novel, complex, and intriguing ways, cooks are under less

pressure to use as much sodium.

22. Cook without layering on the sodiumAvoid “double salting” your foods when cooking, and look for ways to

pair salted flavors with unsalted or under-salted foods, especially fresh

produce. For example, if you are adding a ham bone to a soup pot,

lighten up on the sodium for the rest of the soup. A pot of brown rice

or whole grain pasta doesn’t need to be salted if you are serving it with

other adequately seasoned items or sauces.

23. Rinse, wash, and diluteCut some of the excess sodium in processed foods with no loss of flavor

by draining and rinsing canned foods. In the case of canned beans,

cooks can cut 40 percent of the sodium with this trick. When making

soup, dilute reduced sodium chicken broth with water or wine instead of

using it full strength, and float in some additional vegetables and herbs.

24. Enjoy whole grainsEven whole grain bread can contain considerable sodium. But only part

of the sodium in bread is for taste. Much of it is used to help the bread-

making process and preserve the final results. You can skip that extra

salt when you use these marvelous whole grains by themselves. Try a

Mediterranean-inspired whole grain salad with chopped vegetables,

nuts, and legumes, and perhaps a small amount of cheese, herbs and

spices, healthy oil, and vinegar or citrus. You can enjoy many of the

same flavors you love in a sandwich, but in a delicious new form that has

much less sodium.

25. Kick the “auto-salt” habitAlways taste your food before you salt it. Try taking the saltshaker off

the table and making it available “upon request only.” In the kitchen,

add salt late in the cooking process. Foods release their flavors (and

salt, in the case of salted ingredients) during the cooking process, and

“palate fatigue” on the part of the cook can cause over-salting if this is

undertaken too early.

More Research: By Scientists, Chefs, and Other Flavor StakeholdersGiven how vital sodium reduction is, and how embedded sodium is in

our food supply, culinary techniques, flavor strategies, manufacturing

methods, and marketing assumptions, it is essential that we conduct

additional research to shed more light on which sodium reduction

strategies are most effective. With the benefit of this research, we will be

better positioned to create reduced sodium flavors and food choices that

consumers find not just acceptable, but compelling.

This piece was excerpted from the original article co-authored by Harvard School

of Public Health and The Culinary Institute of America.

15

Following the Presidential TrailBeing a crusader is part of a college president’s role. Every

time President Ryan speaks to a group or company to

engage them in our mission to provide the best culinary

education, he’s crusading for our students. Every time he

visits our partners in education, he’s crusading for long-term

projects that support and distinguish the college. Every time

he educates groups about the CIA’s leadership initiatives,

he’s crusading for widespread change. For Tim, the work

of ensuring that our students, college, and community are

working together at the highest level is a crusade that never

ends. Here are some of his recent efforts on behalf of the CIA.

CIA Capitol Hill ReceptionOn Wednesday, May 16, the CIA hosted a Capitol Hill

Reception at the United States Capitol Visitor Center.

There, in front of senators and their senior aides, he shared

information about the college’s leadership initiatives in the

areas of nutrition and public health. In addition, he spoke

about how the CIA continues to set the gold standard in

professional education.

This reception was part of

the college’s effort to build

awareness in Congress

and other government

agencies about the CIA.

Ultimately, Tim is hoping

this will garner federal

financial support for

our strategic initiatives.

As always, alumni were

there to support the CIA.

Jeffrey Buben ’78 of

Vidalia and Bistro Bis,

and Albert Lukas ’91,

corporate executive chef

for Restaurant Associates,

provided the tasting at

the event.

Hotel Ezra Cornell Our longtime academic partners at the Cornell School of Hotel

Administration hold Hotel Ezra Cornell every year. It is a

three-day event that serves as a practical exam for seniors in the

program to practice the skills they have learned in the classroom

and to showcase their talents to industry professionals. They

completely take over operations of Cornell’s Statler Hotel. For

Tim, it was an important opportunity to touch base with our

partners at Cornell, raise the CIA flag, and re-connect with

colleagues in the industry.

Senator Schumer Supports CIA Initiatives One of the issues Tim champions is Hudson Valley enrichment

and development. He has worked tirelessly to engage N.Y. Senator

Chuck Schumer to advocate for the college around programs and

projects that will benefit the entire region. Recently he hosted

Senator Schumer on the Hyde Park campus, where the senator

spoke about supporting a CIA facility—the new Marriott Pavilion—

in the hopes that it will serve as a nexus of CIA activities in

support of both local farmers and food manufacturers.

president tim ryan and ConGressman ChuCK sChumer stride throuGh the halls oF the senate buildinG

www.ciaalumninetwork.com16

two students sitting around and brainstorming is how the World diversity

Festival got started. Damien “Juice” Williams and Eric Jenkins ‘11 got to

talking about how diverse the Cia campus was and how important it

would be to promote and embrace that diversity. their idea was to have

a three-day festival held on the hyde park campus. but during the early

phases of planning, damien suddenly and tragically passed away. eric took

time to grieve for his friend and then decided the best way to pay tribute

to him was to carry on. and so, this past may, after much hard work and

the help of assistant professor in Culinary arts David McCue ’93 and

externship advisor maura o’meara, eric made real the dream he’d had

with his good friend.

the goal of the festival was to raise awareness of diversity through

education, poetry, culinary competitions, and the simple enjoyment of

sharing food.

Day 1:an interested group gathered to hear Gerry Fernandez, president and

founder of the multicultural Foodservice and hospitality alliance (mFha),

speak about managing the dynamics of a diverse workforce. his energetic

delivery held everyone captivated as

he shared his thoughts on everything

from maintaining self-worth in the

hospitality industry to working with

diverse cultures to

making the industry a

better place.

that evening, the Word

poetry Club, headed by

its president, eric Jenkins,

held a poetry slam

entitled “spoken soul,”

a tribute to damien, who had founded the club. damien’s

mother, Cheryl Williams, was in attendance. more than 70

students came out to express themselves through poetry,

My Poetrydamien,

poetry does not feel the same.

Words people speak no longer flow.

my pen to paper keeps coming out blank.

you have gone and taken poetry with you.

sometimes it hits me hard,

sometimes i’m okay.

but anything poetry reminds me of you.

no one can ever speak words with as much

passion.

you used normal words that went through

my soul like daggers.

your performance of poetry was so unique

and strong.

you were so great i could barely watch,

i’d turn my head to hide my smile

but if you only knew, how proud i was.

you are and always will be,

my poetry.

mise en place no.61, September 2012 17

music, and comedy, or just to listen.

breaana quinones shared her feelings

about the loss of her friend in a poem (see

page 16).

Day 2:out on anton plaza, a block party was

going on that featured the many diverse

clubs we have on campus. Club members

made delicious assortments of food that

ranged from traditional pretzels with two

types of dipping sauce to delicacies from

india. in all, 19 clubs participated in the

block party.

also on saturday, stage one and stage

two of the Walk around the World

Fusion Cooking Competition was held.

the two-day event was supported in

no small measure by american roland

Food Corporation. the company donated

product for use during the competition

as well as $1,000 toward the grand prize.

Wegmans also had a presence in Chef

Kevin Grenzig ’78, who served as a judge.

eight teams began the first stage of

the contest of culinary prowess with a

30-minute Knife skills tray. participants

made batonnet, medium dice, brunoise,

chiffonade, and tourné under the watchful

and critical eye of the judges.

stage two, a quick-Fire appetizer

Competition, lasted 60 minutes, during

which eight teams each received 3–5

ingredients that had to be used in an

appetizer. Competition was steep, as

everyone knew that only four teams

would progress to the finals on sunday.

Day 3:stage three of the Walk around the

World Fusion Cooking Competition gave

the remaining teams—“a” Game, stew,

smokin’ aces, and le Coq rouge—a mere

“Understanding and developing a more diverse nation through food—one plate at a time.”World Diversity Festival theme

120 minutes to prepare an entrée and dessert

that reflected the cuisine of two countries.

they discovered which two countries they

would be “representing” by picking national

flags right after the stage two competition

ended! team “a” Game, the ultimate winner,

managed to accrue $1,800 of prize money by

winning each of the three stages of the event,

the student club Friends of Chabad association

provided a kosher lunch for the participants

and spectators who came out to share the

final day of competition. While the cooking

was taking place, a Jeopardy-style quiz game

netted some lucky contestants cash, books,

visa gift cards, and other assorted prizes.

it was a full three days—full of emotion for

a lost friend, full of learnings from an expert

guest speaker, full of healthy competition, full

of great food, and full of fun! eric has begun

planning next year’s event and already knows

that it will be even bigger and better.

www.ciaalumninetwork.com18

What challenges did you face when creating the CIA Bakery Café? First, I have to say that we are a fantastic team here. Chef

David Kellaway, CMC, our managing director, and Chef

Jake Griffin ’08, our café manager, have been an invaluable

part of the process. Collaborating with hard-working people

with heart and passion makes the challenges easier to

handle. The first big challenge we had was to find the correct

people to build the back- and front-of-the-house teams.

Also, as with any other opening, we faced problems with

equipment delivery and the correct functioning and pertinent

adjustments to the machines. Finally, finding the right

suppliers of raw materials, packaging, etc. was challenging.

What surprised you most in launching the café? I don’t know if I would call it a surprise, but the response

of the people to different textures, new flavors, and items

that are mostly smaller than what people are used to here

in Texas has been great. It was also interesting to see that

while people did not go crazy for Mexican-style breakfast

breads like conchas or cocoles, they did fall in love with our

croissant!

An Interview with Alain Dubernard, CMB, CHE

Creating the

as anyone in the business can testify, starting up a new restaurant or bakery is both exhilarating and stressful. alain

dubernard knows the feeling well. the department chair for baking and pastry arts at the Cia san antonio (and former

instructor and associate dean at the hyde park campus), Chef dubernard opened the Cia bakery Café at the texas campus

in early 2011. here, he gives us a taste of what it took to make that happen—and to earn the café a “best bakery” nod

from the critics at the San Antonio Express-News.

CheF alain dubernard

mise en place no.61, September 2012 19

In what ways is your customer base in San Antonio different from the one that frequents the Apple Pie Bakery Café at the Hyde Park, NY campus? There is no way to compare our customers to the ones in Hyde

Park. We do not have the internal customers—faculty, staff, and

students—that they do there, or the tourists. Our customer universe

in San Antonio is local, and composed of different niches. For our

breakfast breads, we have regulars who work or study close by, and

for lunch, we have a wider audience that includes people who work

for the medical centers, the Army, and many other organizations.

And for our pastries, we have people from all over San Antonio

who come in.

How have these differences influenced your menu? Your operational strategy? We have positioned the CIA Bakery Café as the best pastry shop

in the city. And so we offer the best coffee and the best pastries, we

must be innovative, and we have to be raising the bar as needed.

Our marketing strategies are different as well; we need to convince

our customers to keep coming back to us, and this happens when

everything is excellent in terms of service and products.

What is your vision for the future of the CIA Bakery Café and for baking and pastry education at the CIA San Antonio?We have to keep working hard and taking care of details in order

to keep the CIA Bakery Café excellent in every aspect. The café is

ultimately the image for the baking and pastry arts curriculum here in

San Antonio, and I am very optimistic and sure that the baking and

pastry program will be very successful.

Anything else you’d like mise en place readers to know? I just want to invite all our alumni to our great campus here in San

Antonio. We have a nice mix of courses going on for professionals in

baking and pastry arts, as well as in culinary arts. We are a very good

team that is committed to education, and I can say that it would be an

invaluable experience for any professional in the industry.

To learn more and take a video tour of the CIA Bakery Café hosted

by Chefs Dubernard and Griffin, visit www.ciarestaurants.com.

The café is open Tuesday through Saturday, 7 a.m.–5 p.m.

and Sunday, 8 a.m.–5 p.m.

Register for courses at the CIA San Antonio at

www.ciaprochef.com/programs.

Alain Dubrnard is department chair—baking and pastry arts at

CIA San Antonio.

Cia baKery CaFé shelves ready For Customers CaFé manaGer JaKe GriFFin

www.ciaalumninetwork.com20

On a calm March morning that held the promise of a warm day ahead,

12 teams of eager young culinarians filed into the Student Recreation

Center’s banquet kitchen, ready to prove they were “worth their

salt” when it came to chowder brewing. The stakes were high, as gift

certificates, autographed books, and cash prizes as large as $1,000

awaited the winners. Everyone had their eyes on the prize!

Each team had one hour to produce its chowder. Chef

John Reilly ’88 was on the prowl, ever watchful for any

breaches of professionalism or food safety. While for

some teams, the pressure was intense, Team “Captain

Hook, Line, & Sinker” stayed calm. “The kitchen was great!”

they all nodded in agreement, and cited the timelines they

had carefully created and the constant

communication they maintained with

each other. Almost every team agreed

that a proper chowder should include

a roux, dairy products, and fish fumet.

Some teams opted for making lobster

stock, while others roasted their fish and

shellfish for a meatier flavor. Most teams

included bacon in their recipe, and crab

seemed to be the shellfish of choice.

A number of the event judges were

CIA alumni faculty. They included

Paul DelleRose ’94, John Fischer

’88, Morey Kanner ’84, John

Kowalski ’77, and John

Reilly ’88. All of the judges

methodically considered each

chowder. Students filtered in

and out of the gym excitedly,

predicting the outcomes as they

waited for the public tasting

to begin.

From table to table you

could find evidence of

culinary creativity and

experimentation. Team “All

About the Crab” had created a crab cake-inspired soup. Team “Bikini

Bottom Dwellers” had prepared a bagel and lox chowder with smoked

salmon and salmon roe. “Fish 3 Ways” gave traditional chowder a

Brazilian spin with bacalao. “Sea Pearls” utilized roasted crab shells in

their stock. And Team “We Don’t Have Crabs” used only ingredients

that were in season locally.

Additional competitions included potato dicing, oyster shucking,

and oyster eating. After the shucking contest, Chef Corky Clark

’71 dressed the newly shucked oysters with a diabolically hot

salsa he and his MITs created. It included raw garlic;

onions; shallots; and habañero, Scotch bonnet, and

jalepeño peppers. The spellbound audience watched

as 18 oyster-eating contest participants happily—and

not so happily—slurped down mollusk after mollusk.

As the awards were about to be presented, the tension

in the gym was palpable. Here’s how it all came out:

Showmanship Award: Team “Captain

Hook, Line, & Sinker”

People’s Choice Award: Team

“Soup-a-Stars”

Third Place: Team “Captain Hook,

Line, & Sinker”

Second Place: Team “Jajajiences”

First Place: Team “Soup-a-Stars”

As the crowd dispersed, full and happy,

into the warm afternoon sunlight, the

tired but jubilant teams returned to their

booths to congratulate one another

and dismantle their displays.

The 11th Annual Chowder

Cook-off had been a

culinary and crowd-

pleasing success.

Natalie Singer is a candidate for

an associate degree in culinary arts

(anticipated May 2013).

By Natalie Singer

Chow Down at the Chowder Cook-Off

The Worlds of FlavorInternational Conference

& Festival

Join more than 60 chefs and food authorities to discover Join more than 60 chefs and food authorities to discover

new and ancient flavors from the Mediterranean to South-

east Asia, with stops in Morocco, Spain, Sicily, Israel,

Turkey, United Arab Emirates, Indonesia, Singapore, Korea,

and much more—over 20 countries represented!

The Worlds of Flavor® International Conference & Festival

is widely acknowledged as our country’s most influential

professional forum on world cuisines, food cultures, and

flavor trends.

REEIMAGINING CULINARY EXCHANGE, FROM THE MEDITERRANEAN AND MIDDLE EAST TO ASIA

®

Register today at WorldsOfFlavor.comNAPA VALLEY, CALIFORNIA | NOVEMBER 113, 2012

www.ciaalumninetwork.com22

For a culture of innovation to flourish, it must be nurtured

through committed, visionary leadership. With that in mind,

the CIA and Hormel Foods Corporation created the Culinary

Enrichment and Innovation Program (CEIP) to develop the

leadership potential of rising stars in the foodservice industry.

Having graduated its first two classes, in 2010 and 2012, the

CEIP is already generating positive ripple effects of change in

the industry. That should come as no surprise; not only do CEIP

participants have the opportunity to apply innovative thought

in practical applications while at the CIA, they also bring

invaluable knowledge back to their organizations. In addition to

the insights they gain from their expert instructors, they learn

just as much from each other. Because their classmates come

from virtually every segment of the industry, they discover whole

new ways of looking at problems and solutions.

Four of these professionals share their thoughts on the program

and how it has changed their approach to leadership and

innovation.

Greg strickland, CeC, Cdm, CFpp

As executive chef for Vi at Highlands Ranch, Greg

Strickland and his crew of 22 are responsible for

creating and delivering exciting, healthful menus

for the residents of the Colorado senior living

community. So the health and wellness module of

CEIP was invaluable.

Light bulbs have been going off all over the

place. My focus at Vi is on healthy cooking, so

one was, “Don’t cook health food. People don’t like it and they don’t

want to be told what to do.” Instead, focus on making darn good food.

Getting old is about loss—of a spouse, your friends, your independence.

So the idea that I can still prepare the things the residents like is very

important. Instead of taking things away, you add some beans to a

soup, some leafy greens to a meatloaf dinner. One of the biggest things

we learned in CEIP is to not be afraid of fat and salt, but instead, to

use them last. That was mind-blowing for me.

The culinary industry, and especially the senior living segment, can

Innovation Through Leadership

Reflections on the Culinary Enrichment and Innovation ProgramBy Shelly Loveland

mise en place no.61, September 2012 23

become calcified. I’m really proud of what I do and I want to be sure

that senior living is just as cutting edge as anything else in foodservice.

What intrigued me about CEIP was the idea of helping to shape

tomorrow. That’s how I feel about what we’re doing here.

denise baron herrera

Denise Baron Herrera is vice president of food and

beverage for the Massachusetts-based Burtons Grill,

where she oversees back-of-the-house operations for

the company’s multiple locations. Her responsibilities

include developing menus, training staff, monitoring

quality, and negotiating purchasing deals.

CEIP made me look at more aspects of the

leadership role. I’ve taken things I learned at the

CIA to educate and elevate my staff. It’s important to have ongoing

education for servers, line cooks, and sous chefs, as well as myself, so

I’ve set up monthly training meetings to help all of us stay current.

I worked with the CEO to put together training modules, from

purchasing to receiving to recipe execution.

I really liked the leadership module of CEIP. The discussion led by

Steve Binder from Hormel about having succession and development

plans was really important for us because we are a young organization;

I co-founded Burtons six years ago. So I took those lessons home.

CEIP is definitely a valuable experience; I would love to do it again.

Christopher Culp

Christopher Culp is manager of food and beverage

concepts and innovation for InterContinental Hotels

Group in Atlanta, GA. There, he creates concepts and

operational platforms for the group’s hotels, including

developing recipes, menu concepts, and catering

platforms, and doing front- and back-of-the-house

consulting.

As a chef it is hard to put a finger on what areas

you need to learn from a culinary standpoint to help propel your

career. In this program, they’re doing a great job of showing us new

things. The subjects covered in CEIP would be an asset to any chef.

The program has so much to offer—it bridges the gap between the

kitchen and the boardroom. Going from sous chef to executive chef

is a big step, but going from executive chef to a culinary operations

position is a huge leap, and the CEIP can facilitate that.

In CEIP, you get a better sense of the culinary world, but from

a broader stance. This is important to me—to be able to be an

ambassador and convey the passion to people outside the industry, and

work with hotel people at our different properties to convince them of

the importance of their food and beverage operations.

Jonna anne

As the executive chef for the State University of New

York, Geneseo College in Geneseo, NY, Jonna Anne

sets the culinary vision for a university community

with approximately 5,000 students. This includes

everything from recipes to training trends to a campus

dining renovation.

CEIP changed my approach to my job in terms

of looking at it from more of a global perspective,

taking into consideration all the research that’s going on now, and the

focus on chefs serving healthy food. I consider how we can help shape

and change how kids eat. We focus on flavor and what students like,

while also asking ourselves, “Could we replace the heavy cream in this

dish with skim milk?”

CEIP is not just another cooking class. You learn to think through

problems and situations and define how we can direct them as leaders.

The strategic planning topic was a huge help in terms of organizing

our culinary team, training my staff on how to think strategically, and

seeing trends.

Since taking the program, I’m more comfortable and confident. I

learned a lot while I was at the CIA, and even now, I have times where

I encounter a situation and realize, “Oh, that’s what they meant.” It’s a

continuation of what I learned.

Shelly Loveland is a writer/editor in the CIA’s Creative Services department.

CEIP at a Glance The CEIP is comprised of four intense three-day modules

held over the course of 18 months. Each provides a

mix of classroom learning, one-on-one interaction with

industry leaders, and hands-on kitchen work:

•Flavor Dynamics and Flavor Exploration

•Contemporary Approach to Health and Wellness

•Leadership and Innovation Strategies

• Innovative Menu Development for Profitable

Operations

Graduates are certified by the CIA and become members

of the Hormel Circle of Innovation, an influential network

of chefs who participate in ongoing learning and dialog.

To learn more, visit www.ceipinfo.com. Applications

for the CEIP Class of 2014 will be accepted beginning

September 1, 2012.

www.ciaalumninetwork.com24

Book Shelf Chefs Can Save the WorldHow to Green Restaurants and Why They Are the Key to Renewing the Food System

By Jeremy Chase Barlow ’97

Jeremy Barlow is chef and

owner of Tayst, the first

and only three-star green

certified restaurant in

Nashville, TN. In this

book he reveals his

evolving passion for

all things local, sustainable, and

green. Readers will benefit from Jeremy’s research

and experience as he takes the everyday restaurateur through

the “how tos” of greening his or her business. He offers tips on

everything from finding the best energy-efficient light bulbs to using

beeswax candles for atmosphere to being sure you are sourcing fish

responsibly. Jeremy presents a realistic view of the gradual changes

that everyone in the foodservice industry can embrace.

Crete: The Roots of the Mediterranean DietBy Nikki Rose ’94

This tiny book

has a big message

for people who

are interested

in enjoying the advantages

of a healthy Mediterranean diet and learning

more about the cuisine of Crete. Nikki Rose, a longtime

resident of Greece, shows readers how to use readily available

ingredients to capture healthful flavors in a unique way. This

book takes you through the rhythms of the seasons in Crete while

offering up delicious recipes to create your own meze table that

will delight everyone.

Vegetarian Cooking at HomeBy Katherine

Polenz ’73 with

The Culinary

Institute

of America

You don’t

have to be

vegetarian to

love vegetarian food.

This beautifully photographed book

brings easy yet elegant lacto-ovo vegetarian recipes to

life. Techniques specific to creating delicious vegetarian fare are

included throughout. You’ll find ways to transform your favorite

dish into a vegetarian triumph. And “How to Make It Your Own”

sections show up in each chapter to help you “mix up” a recipe

and think outside the box.

Vegan Cooking for CarnivoresBy Roberto Martin ’00

In this book you will find

vegan recipes so tasty even

a carnivore won’t miss

the meat. As personal

chef to stars Ellen

DeGeneres and Portia

De Rossi, Roberto

Martin set out to meet

their request to eat

only a vegan diet. Throughout

this book he provides recipes that rely less on

specific ingredients and more on technique and the translation

of familiar, beloved flavors. The more than 125 delicious vegan

recipes will delight carnivores, vegetarians, and vegans alike.

mise en place no.61, September 2012 25

If it’s James Beard Award season, you can be sure that a number of CIA alumni are on the list

to be recognized for their achievements. Below you’ll find the names of fellow grads who were

finalists this year. In red are our two big winners, Grant Achatz and Linton Hopkins. Linton has

been nominated every year since 2008 for Best Chef: Southeast. Guess the fifth time was the charm!

Grant was inducted into the Who’s Who of Food & Beverage in America and his restaurant Next won

as Best New Restaurant. Congratulations to all the finalists and our winners.

Sara Moulton ’77, Media Personality: Sara’s Weeknight Meals

Gary Danko ’77, Outstanding Chef

Michael Chiarello ’82, Best Chef: Pacific (Bottega)

Gerard Hayden ’86, Best Chef: Northeast (The North Fork)

Jennifer Jasinski ’89, Best Chef: Southwest (Rioja)

Andrew Carmellini ’91, Book Award: American Flavor

John Besh ’92, Book Award: My Family Table: A Passionate Plea

for Home Cooking

Grant Achatz ’94, Who’s Who of Food & Beverage in America

and Best New Restaurant: Next

Linton Hopkins ’95, Best Chef: Southeast (Restaurant Eugene)

Alon Shaya ’99, Best Chef: South (Domenica)

Susan Zemanick ’01, Rising Star Chef of the Year (Gautreau’s)

Thomas McNaughton ’04, Rising Star Chef of the Year (Flour

& Water)

KUDOS

of “communication”

guiding him, Chef Durfee

prepared a chocolate

entremet, a restaurant-

style dessert, and a

sculpture in chocolate—

all with Batman’s Bat

Signal as an element.

The judges were so

impressed they chose him

to be the member of the

American team to create

the chocolate sculpture

at the competition in

France. Chef Durfee will

be joined there by Andy

Chlebana of Joliet Junior

College in Joliet, IL and

Christophe Feyt of the

Paris Las Vegas hotel in Las Vegas, NV.

Chef Durfee has received many accolades during his career. He was

part of the opening team for The French Laundry in 1994, won the

James Beard Award for Pastry Chef of the Year in 1998, and was

named one of the 10 Best Pastry Chefs in America in 1999 by Pastry Art

& Design and Chocolatier magazines.

30 Under 30Every year, the famed Zagat Guide puts together a listing of New

York City’s hottest up-and-coming chefs—its 30 Under 30. These

young chefs have earned some notice and Zagat believes they are

worth watching as their careers unfold. A number of those named

are CIA alumni. Recognize anyone from your class?

Joseph Michael Ogrodnek ’02, chef/co-founder, Battersby

Walker Lewis Stern ’02, chef/co-founder, Battersby

Matthew Joseph Tilden ’02, owner/baker, Scratchbread

Erik Jason Battes ’04, chef de cuisine, Jean Georges

Leah Kaithern ’05, manager, Caffe Storico

Gilley Tang ’06, personal chef/co-founder, Shorty Tang & Sons

Corey Arthur Cova ’07, chef, Earl’s Beer & Cheese, and ABV

CIA Instructor Going to Coupe du MondeThe Coupe du Monde de la Pâtisserie competition, to be held in

Lyon, France in January 2013, is the baking and pastry equivalent

of the prestigious Bocuse d’Or for culinary chefs. The CIA at

Greystone’s own Chef-Instructor in Baking and Pastry Arts Stephen

Durfee has been selected to be part of the team representing the

U.S. at the competition. He spent countless hours preparing for the

event that would select the U.S. team. With the prescribed theme

James Beard Foundation Awards 2012

www.ciaalumninetwork.com26

Bridging the Gap by Giving Back CIA Grads in the ClassroomCIA alumni are the college’s legacy, and what a legacy they are! But

young alumni starting out, who may find it difficult to give back to

the college monetarily, often ask, “How can I give back to the CIA in

another way?” Well, graduates who took the Foodservice Management

in Health Care (FSMHC) course, begun in December 2010, are

finding a way. These young culinarians are returning to the CIA to

share their successes and experiences with second-semester seniors

who are currently taking the unique course.

Since this elective was created and developed by Assistant Professor in

Business Management Lynne Eddy, five classes, totaling 64 students,

have taken the course. And because of it, students are opting for

jobs in health care. Companies in this booming industry are seeking

classically trained culinarians to work in luxury retirement centers,

assisted care facilities, independent care properties, and other

continuing care retirement centers (CCRC).

How do we know this course is helping CIA graduates enter the field

of health care? More than 20 of our CIA graduates of the Foodservice

Management in Health Care course have accepted employment with

one company alone, Unidine. Based out of Boston, MA, Unidine

specializes in food and dining management services across three

business segments: senior dining, hospital dining, and business dining.

Coming Back to Give BackTwo CIA graduates have recently returned to share their experiences

as guest speakers in the FSMHC class. Kara Andretta ’10 is dining

services director for Unidine at United Hospice of Rockland. Kara

shared her enthusiasm for her position with the students in the class,

explaining how she is cooking personalized meals for terminally ill

patients. On her very first day, she was able to impress the company’s

compliance officer because she was the only one who understood the

language being used during orientation. Kara says, “I knew what CQI

and TQM meant (Continuous Quality Improvement and Total Quality

Management).

Aya Kuroda ’10 is working in the U.S. for New York Mutual Trading,

specializing in kitchen supplies and tableware from Japan. “Basically

my role is to find new markets, other than Japanese restaurants, on

the East Coast.” Aya came to class to share her passion for unique

types of thickening agents not currently found in the U.S., which can

be used to modify the texture of food for patients who have difficulty

swallowing.

Other CIA alumni who have presented in class and/or hosted students

at their sites include:

Craig Merrill ’73, associate director—dining services, Glen Arden

Elant CCRC, Goshen, NY

Anthony Fischetti ’78, executive chef, Vassar Brothers Medical

Center, Poughkeepsie, NY

Tim Celuck ’85, executive chef, Kingston Hospital, Kingston, NY

Jim McGrody ’90, author and director culinary services, Rex

Healthcare, Raleigh, NC

Gower Lane ’92, director of operations, Kendal on Hudson, Sleepy

Hollow, NY

Tim Strasser ’84, executive chef, Vi, Yonkers, NY

Matt Camp ’02, dining services director, Unidine, Boston, MA

Chris Garrand ’02, district manager, Unidine, Boston, MA

Marc Uhrik ’97, executive chef, St. Luke’s Cornwall Hospital,

Newburgh, NY

A new alumnus, Paul Goskowski ’10, expressed the sentiments of

many who have taken the FSMHC course when he said, “I’ve recently

developed and implemented a new purée initiative in my facility in

Maryland! I feel Professor Eddy’s class lays the foundation for anyone

entering this side of the industry. I’m sure that one day I’ll be the one

standing in front of her class recruiting great culinary talent.”

No doubt many of the young alumni who took this class will also find

their way back to share their experiences with “new recruits” for the

health care industry.

CIA graduates who are working in the health care industry and

are interested in being a guest speaker in the classroom can contact

Assistant Professor Lynne Eddy at l_eddy@culinary.edu or

845-905-4660.

vassar hospital’s exeCutive CheF anthony FisChetti ‘78 taKes students throuGh the prep area at the hospital

mise en place no.61, September 2012 27

Keeping the CIA a “Well-Oiled” Machine

At The Culinary Institute of America, we’ve always known that to

get exceptional results, you must start with good, wholesome, quality

ingredients and products. The folks at Bunge (pronounced bun-ghee)

North America know this too. According to Bill McCullough, director

of marketing for Bunge Oils, “We want to arm students with products

that provide the best taste, value, and health benefits for their future

culinary endeavors.”

Founded in Amsterdam in 1818, Bunge, a leading agribusiness food

company with worldwide operations, prides itself on delivering

products that take the shortest distance from harvest to market. Bunge

is a leader in the areas of:

• Providing soybeans, corn, wheat, sorghum, canola, and rice both

domestically and world-wide

• Oilseed processing

• Oils

• Milling

For more than a decade, Bunge North America has been involved

with the CIA’s Gift-in-Kind program, providing baking shortenings,

canola and soybean salad oils, and high oleic canola oil for deep-

frying. Today, you can find Bunge products in the kitchens at all three

of our U.S. campuses. “At Bunge we know that it’s in the teaching

kitchens that CIA students are first exposed to foodservice brands

and where they start to develop brand loyalty,” explains McCullough.

“Shortenings, specialty fats, and premium frying oils may not be center

of the plate but they can represent a significant food cost on a menu.”

Jim DeJoy, advancement officer in charge of the CIA’s Gift-in-Kind

program, reiterates McCullough’s sentiment. “Gifting products to

the CIA is a win-win for all involved,” he says. “Corporations have

a priceless opportunity to get their products into the hands of future

culinary leaders who develop loyalty to those products and use them

when they go out into the field. Additionally, our students have the

opportunity to work with top-quality ingredients that ultimately

enhance their recipes for a greater end product.”

Over the years, Bunge’s relationship with the CIA has grown from

gifting product to sponsoring several of the CIA’s leadership and

industry conferences and retreats—events that provide sponsors

and attendees the chance to reach top operators and corporate

chefs in volume foodservice. “Partnering with the CIA on these

programs has given Bunge the opportunity to showcase our products

and educate our customers about the positive role that beneficial

fats and oils can and should play in foodservice. In fact, our food

truck, nicknamed M.O.E. (Mobile Oil Experts), made its first trip

to the CIA’s California campus in 2009 for the Worlds of Flavor

International Conference and Festival that focused on street food.”

The CIA is thrilled to have Bunge in its network of industry

partners. McCullough agrees, “We look forward to working with the

CIA as they expand into Asia and hope we can offer more support

in educating students on the value of selecting the appropriate fats

and oils for their next culinary adventure.”

Felicia Zammit is a CIA advancement officer.

By Felicia Zammit

www.ciaalumninetwork.com28

Why Give?Allison Siegel ’80

What makes giving meaningful?We’re three CIA generations strong—my dad, Alfred Rosenthal;

my son, Corey Siegel ’10; and me, Allison Siegel ’80. Our

connection to the college goes back to its earliest days in New

Haven, CT. My dad, always a food and wine lover, was a student

of James Beard and Julia Child. He was also a member of the

James Beard Foundation, the American Institute of Wine & Food,

the Confrérie du Chevaliers du Tastevin, Confrérie de la Chaîne

des Rôtisseurs and, eventually, a CIA Member of the Corporation

and Life Fellow. After retiring as president of a multinational

corporation, he started By Invitation Only LTD, an event-planning

firm. Food and great restaurants were a huge part of my life

growing up. Knowing my passion for all things food-related, my

dad suggested the CIA when I was looking for a college. It was

easy to fall in love with the school. After graduation, I worked at

the Helmsley Palace Hotel in New York City. Then, while I was

working for Aramark at New York University, I earned a bachelor’s

degree in foodservice management from the school. I’ve been

with Aramark for 29 years, in positions ranging from executive

chef to resident district manager. My CIA training also prepared

me to participate in Aramark’s Guest Chef exchange program in

Barcelona and Pamplona, Spain.

My son Corey shared the family love of food. His high school

BOCES chef-instructor saw Corey’s potential and got him involved

with the American Culinary Federation competition. Together,

they were fierce competitors. As an alumna, I brought Corey to

the CIA for visits every year. By 10th grade, he decided he wanted

to attend. After graduation, he began a three-year apprenticeship

program at The Greenbrier in West Virginia. Executive Chef

Richard Rosendale took Corey under his wing and pushed him

to constantly strive for perfection. Richard asked Corey to be his

commis for the Bocuse d’Or USA competition held at the CIA

last January, and with my dad and me cheering them on, Richard

and he won! They are now training to represent the USA in Lyon,

France in 2013.

What Motivates You to Give?We give because of our love, respect, and deep admiration for

the school. It will always be a huge part of our lives. When Corey

decided he wanted to attend the CIA, it was one of my proudest

moments. I was able to relive my experience and see how things

have changed. There are advances in technology, specializations,

and the curriculum, as well as things like the library, the lodges, and

the restaurants. All of these things really have an impact on student

learning.

How Do You Give?Supporting the college helps to enhance the student experience,

provides scholarship opportunities, improves library and technology

resources, and recruits and retains a world-class faculty and staff.

Making a donation after talking with a student during the annual

phonathon, giving online to the “making some noise” e-mail campaign,

or sending back the mise en place insert with a check, are some of the

many ways we give. Keeping the dream of the CIA alive is how and

why we give. And we give every chance we get. As a family, we take

pride in the CIA degree, the school, and its graduates. Without it, the

picture (above) of the three of us would not have been possible.

allison sieGel, Corey sieGel, and alFred rosenthal

mise en place no.61, September 2012 29

Jacob Churchman ’11AOS in Baking and Pastry Arts ’11BPS in Baking and Pastry Arts Management ’12Recipient: Michael Cech Endowed Scholarship, Ronald and Elizabeth Magruder Endowed Scholarship, Confrérie de la Chaîne des Rôtisseurs—Hal J. Rosoff Memorial Scholarship, Augie™ Awards Dinner Endowed Scholarship

What motivated you to attend the CIA?I believe my mother was the single greatest influence in my decision

to pursue a career in the foodservice industry. When I was six, she

earned her culinary certificate at the New Orleans Culinary Institute.

Shortly thereafter, she started Churchman’s Catering. By the time I

was seven years old, I was involved in a catering function of some type

every weekend. My mother would dress me up in my finest clothes

and have me working alongside her, walking around and serving

appetizers. You can only imagine the tips a seven-year-old boy made

just by wearing a tuxedo! During high school, when I went searching

for a job in the foodservice industry, I got the chance to apprentice

under two certified master bakers. When they learned of my desire

to attend culinary school, they told me that The Culinary Institute of

America was simply the finest school a chef could attend.

What has been the best part of being at the CIA?In addition to my course work here at the CIA, the opportunities

outside of class have meant a lot to me. I’ve been part of S.P.I.C.E.

(Student Programming Igniting Campus Entertainment). After serving

as the group’s president for two years, I realized I have a passion

for programming. To that end, I’ve been hired as the CIA activities

intern. I’ve been very lucky to go to a culinary school and graduate

with not only a bachelor’s degree, but with an equal amount of event

management and planning knowledge. The CIA has led me into a

career that will fully showcase my personal talents.

What are your plans for the future?I know that in the next five to ten years I want a job that allows me to

Giving’s Impact

travel and learn about cultures around the world—one that helps me to

further my education. I see myself working in the luxury cruise line

industry, where I hope to work my way up to the job of cruise director

or activities director. After that, and for the rest of my life, I will be a

student taking one step at a time; learning new things every day, and,

with luck, climbing the corporate ladder to success.

How has the CIA’s scholarship program helped you?It has given me the opportunity of a lifetime. Without the assistance

I’ve received, I would not have been able to fulfill my dreams. I am

truly excited about beginning my career in the cruise line industry;

it’s a dream come true. I can’t thank those who had a hand in the

scholarship program enough for giving me the opportunity to succeed

and find my true calling.

We thought it would be fun to take you on a trip down memory lane to see just how much the CIA’s main campus has changed since it opened its doors back in 1946. From a New Haven, CT street corner to a Jesuit novitiate in Hyde Park, NY, the CIA has grown almost unimaginably. These pictures are reminders of just how far we have come and that the sky is the limit when we think about where we are going!

19462012

THEN&NOW New Haven Restaurant Institute in a single building on a street corner in New Haven, CT

The CIA moved to a Jesuit novitiate overlooking the Hudson River in Hyde Park, NY

Outside the mansion in New Haven

Enjoying a moment overlooking the Hudson River in Hyde Park

A two-layer buttercream cake gets special attention in New Haven

This CIA student’s cake won Best in Show at the 144th Salon of Culinary Art

A pick-up game of softball in New Haven

Established fields and teams are part of the sporting life in Hyde Park

30

Dining in a stark hall, New Haven

Dining in the glorious Farquharson Hall in Hyde Park

A mirror hung precariously over the instructor’s head in the New Haven demo kitchen

Digital screens make demos in the commodious Danny Kaye Theatre easy and safe

New Haven students learn the art of braiding bread

Student displays perfect challah bread fresh from the ovens of the Apple Pie Bakery Café kitchen

Small and modest would best describe the college’s first library in New Haven

The Conrad N. Hilton Library in Hyde Park is home to more than 86,000 books, 4,500 DVDs and videos, and 280 periodicals

Paper cook’s hats were the style of the day in New Haven

Toques are the headgear of choice in Hyde Park

Academic classes were held on the basement level in New Haven

Students take liberal arts classes in light and airy modern classrooms in Hyde Park

31

www.ciaalumninetwork.com32

’56 Richard Dearden is retired

and loves it. He still does a bit

of consulting and some catering work. He

reports that his daughter, Ellen Dearden

’84, is enjoying a successful career. Rich-

ard had the chance to spend a day with

Joe Amendola just before he passed away

and says, “He was the nicest man you

could ever know.”

’61 James Billings is retired

from the Greenville County

School in Burlington, VT. He has three

daughters, three stepdaughters, and 13

grandchildren. He also kept busy coach-

ing baseball and football for 24 and five

years, respectively.

’66 Paul H. Schmidt is retired

after a long career that

included 26 years at Russell Sage College,

two years at Price Chopper Food Market,

10 years at Amtrak, and five years with

Compass Group.

’67 Donald (Smokey) Adams

is the owner and blacksmith

at Second Circle Forge in Ignacio, CO.

He is preparing to retire after 36 years

of building fancy ironwork for Highland

Homes. He’s ready to put some miles on

his new Harley-Davidson!

’68 Leonard Gentieu is chef/

owner of Papagallo Yacht

Charters, a floating event center in Morro

Bay, CA. Peter Harrison is owner/

president of A&P Turbo Clean in

Bentonville, AR.

’70 Loring W. Bush is spend-

ing his free time writing a

cookbook. Martin Johner has married

Professor Gary A. Goldberg, his partner

of 40 years. Together they founded Cu-

linary Center of New York in New York

City, which provides classes, catering,

and consulting. Martin has co-authored

two cookbooks and has been featured

on television, radio, and in print as “The

Chocolate Chef.”

’72 Sheryl Ann Hein is lead

cook for residential dining at

Western Oregon University in Mon-

mouth, OR. She has a new grandson and

granddaughter.

’73 Edward Fisher is quality

assurance director for Omar

Coffee Company in Newington, CT.

Richard L. Szydlyk has retired from

the business he owned providing meal

packs for K-12 schools.

’74 Daniel Kotowski has

reached some important

milestones. He retired in 2010 after 34

years with Compass Group, and he and

his wife just celebrated their 40th anniver-

sary. He recently completed his log home

in Vermont and enjoys snowboarding,

snowmobiling, sailing, and clamming. He

is living life and loving it.

’75 James Sands is chef/owner of

Zoe’s Fish House in Hadley,

MA. The Western Massachusetts Valley Ad-

vocate has named Zoe’s Best of the Valley

Seafood Restaurant for 15 straight years.

’76 Robert J. Hanné is a

culinary arts instructor for

Virginia College in Savannah, GA. He is

proud to announce the birth of his first

grandson, Wyatt Christopher Hanné, in

July 2011. Timothy Martin is vice presi-

dent, contracting & procurement

for Duke Corporate Education in

Durham, NC.

’77 Daniel Brule is culinary

instructor at The Bradenton

Bridge, in Bradenton, FL, which provides

transition and work release opportuni-

ties for nonviolent inmates at Florida

facilities. Daniel teaches a 28-week ACF-

sponsored culinary fundamentals course

that prepares inmates for job placement.

Randy Fournier is manager of global

dining & food safety for Hess Corpora-

tion in Houston, TX.

’78 Marc Schlenz is director

of club operations for the St.

Andrews Country Club in Boca Raton,

FL. Brian Scully is manager of the

Royal Kona Resort Romance Center in

Kailua Bay, HI. From 1984–2008, he had

a successful catering and event company

in Denver, CO, which he sold when he

moved to Hawaii to retire. Though his

“retirement” consists of working 45 hours

a week for the resort, he truly loves life in

paradise.

’79 Jeff A. Miller is in his third

term as commissioner of the

town of Matthews, NC. He is also the

inventory control area manager for Fam-

ily Dollar’s corporate headquarters, also

in Matthews. Michael O’Donnell is

national account manager and corporate

chef for TW Garner Food Company in

Shoreview, MN. Paula Waxman is a 30-

year veteran of the foodservice industry

and is now owner of ’Wiches of Boston,

LLC. The company uses liquid nitrogen

to make intensely flavored ice cream cre-

ations during private events in the New

England region. Take a look at what she’s

doing at www.wichesofboston.com.

’80 Jeff Azer is in sales and

design for Cornerstone

Restaurant Supply and Design in Palm

Desert, CA. Peter Coldren is chef/own-

er of Quality & Elegance by Coldren’s

Catering and Peterallynn’s and Company,

both in Reading, PA. He is the proud

father of seven children and, as a hobby,

enjoys creating customized festival con-

cessions. Martin E. Grossel is a partner

in Pride Caterers, which is an off-premise

caterer in the New York Metropolitan

area. James Lenhardt is food produc-

tion manager for Aramark at Children’s

Hospital of Philadelphia in Philadelphia,

PA. Stephen Worsley is currently in

Buenos Aires, Argentina, which is just one

stop on his trip around the world to study

food and culture.

’81 Lisa Callison is chef at The

Country Club at Castle Pines

in Castle Pines, CO as well as special

event and demo chef for Whole Foods,

also in Colorado. Donna Ewanciw is

chef/owner of Radice Restaurant in Blue

Bell, PA. Carol Newhouse is a workers’

compensation law judge for New York

State Workers’ Compensation Board in

Albany, NY. Michael Posid is executive

chef at Christian Health Care Center

in Wyckoff, NJ. He would love to get

in contact with his classmates Carlos,

Danny, Be, Hoe, “The Fubbos,” and the

1979 softball champs. He says, “You know

who you are!”

’82 Henry Meer is chef/owner

of City Hall Restaurant in

New York City. Daniel Streett just

celebrated his 20-year anniversary as

executive chef at the Country Club of

Maryland in Towson, MD.

’83 Donald Muszalski is gener-

al manager for Legends Hos-

pitality at Yankee Stadium in the Bronx,

NY. Ira Siegel is executive chef at Just

Restaurant & Lounge in Old Bridge, NJ.

Ellen Zarcone is executive sous chef

at the Hilton Pearl River in Pearl River,

NY. She is also senior experience mentor

in the Bergen County Academies senior

experience program.

’84 Joseph Donnelly is general

manager/COO of the Alpine

Country Club in Demarest, NJ. Sharon

Hage is owner/chef/consultant for S.

Hage Consulting in Dallas, TX. Alan

Romano is chef-instructor at Guilford

Technical Community College in James-

town, NC. He recently received The

Cutting Edge Award from the American

Culinary Federation at its Southeast

Regional Conference.

’85 Joseph Archazki is general

manager at The Commons

Club at the Brooks in Bonita Springs,

FL. T. Scott Clayton is owner/general

mise en place no.61, September 2012 33

contractor of Top Notch Preservation in

Dahlonega, GA. He also works part-time

in patient foods at the Northside Forsyth

Hospital in Cumming, GA. Joseph

O’Connor is executive chef—meal

solutions for Mariano’s Fresh Market in

Naperville, IL. Greg Paulson is program

director and instructor—culinary arts at

Georgia Northwestern Technical College

in Rome, GA. David J. Reid is corporate

chef/owner of Bluefrog Foods LLC in

Austell, GA. Ronald A. Welch is train-

ing store manager for Harry & David in

St. Augustine, FL. He has three children

and two grandchildren. Ron’s hobbies are

cooking (of course!), working in his yard,

and fishing.

’86 Robert A. Bruce is area

general manager for Sodexo

in Albany, NY. Stephen Higgs has been

a courier at Federal Express for the past

13 years. He also owns Cooters Country

Catering—a mobile catering company

that specializes in BBQ—and regularly

competes on the Kansas City BBQ

Society competition circuit. Stephen

M. Maronian was admitted into the

Académie Culinaire de France at a June

ceremony in Chicago. He teaches classes

at Norwalk Community College in Nor-

walk, CT. Derin Moore is executive chef

for The Broadmoor in Colorado Springs,

CO. John Petronella is owner/principal

of ManhattanJack specializing in hand-

crafted artisan chocolates and confections

in Norco, LA. Michael Stoddart is

chef/owner of Seasons Caterer Special

Occasion in Lexington, KY.

’87 Anthony Dilucia is general

manager at Hotel Jerome in

Aspen, CO.

’88 Michael T. Bull is restaurant

service instructor at Gross-

mont Union High School in El Cajon,

CA. He earned the 2012 Cutting Edge

Award at the ACF’s Western Regional

Conference and was named 2012 Chef

of the Year by the San Diego Chapter

of the ACF. Linda Hall is culinary

strategy consultant for Sam’s Club and

Cookwork.com. Her work includes trend

tracking, recipe and menu development,

food photography supervision, and food

marketing.

’89 Jason Bobson is chef/owner

of Pici Enoteca in Beverly

Hills, CA. Michael and Wendy Jordan

are both culinary instructors at the Seattle

Culinary Academy in Seattle, WA. Marc

Lubetkin is director of communications

for Sodexo in Weatogue, CT. He is also

owner of the Red Stone Pub in Simsbury,

CT. Williams N. Mooney is chef/

owner of The Brothers Moon Restaurant

in Hopewell, NJ, which is celebrating its

11th year in operation.

’90 John E. Calderon is direc-

tor of food and beverage at

the Pronghorn Golf Club in Bend, OR.

Raymond Camillo is owner/president

of Blue Orbit Restaurant Advisors in Ro-

swell, GA. Lee Cohen is wine director/

manager for Darden at The Capital Grille

in Washington, DC. Kevin W. Early is

director of dining and catering at Windsor

Meade of Williamsburg, a continuing care

retirement community in Williamsburg,

VA. Julienne Guyette is chef-instructor

in the culinary arts and nutrition program

at the University of New Hampshire’s

Thompson School of Applied Sciences

in Durham, NH. Paul Paetow is general

manager for Aramark in Philadelphia, PA.

Scott Terle is consultant/owner of La

Bonn Cuisine in Gainesville, FL.

’91 Charles Bishop is chef/owner

of Squiretown Restaurant

& Bar in Hampton Bays, NY. He was

married in 2010 and welcomed his baby

daughter Riley in August 2011. Peter

Kim is owner of Blue Finn in Middle-

town, NY.

’92 Gretchen (Mayer) Lohnes

is executive chef for AVI

Food Systems, Inc. at Alfred University

in Alfred, NY. Gretchen is working on an

ongoing project for state schools regard-

ing farm-to-table sustainability with local

business farmers. She is proud to say that

Alfred is one of the very first schools to

have gone trayless.

’93 Gerard Conway is general

manager at the North Hemp-

stead Country Club in Port Washington,

NY. Bryan Dooley is chef/owner of

Bryan’s Black Mountain Barbecue in

Cave Creek, AZ.

’94 Cornelius Gallagher is

chef/owner of the Dragon-

fly Restaurant in New York City. Eric

Meisel is a broker/sales representative

and chef for Michaels & Associates, con-

sultants in foodservice, in Grand Rapids,

MI. Melissa A. Schell-Adkins is head

pastry chef at Bellefonte Country Club in

Ashland, KY. She was married in 2011 in

her hometown of Rochester, NY.

’95 Keoni Chang is corporate

executive chef for the Sullivan

Family of Companies in Honolulu, HI. In

May, he won the 2012 Supermarket Chef

Showdown held in Dallas, TX and spon-

sored by McCormick. Robert Giesman

is the executive chef for The Kenwood by

Senior Star in Cincinnati, OH.

’96 Joshua Baur is a private chef

in New Paltz, NY. He was one

of the chefs who cooked for Chelsea Clin-

ton’s wedding reception, and specializes

in dinner parties. Karen Berner is food

editor at Reader’s Digest Association’s

Taste of Home magazine. Peter Stone is

owner/wine consultant/chef of Toxaway

Wine and Cheese in Lake Toxaway, NC.

’97 Mehta Gordon is chef/

owner of Sweet Life Cakery in

Kingston, WA. Kristin (Miley) Hollo-

way is chef at Willow Valley Retirement

Communities in Willow Street, PA. Mark

Krystopa is director of culinary opera-

tions at Hyatt Hotels Corporation, Select

Hotel Group in Chicago, IL. David Wie-

derholt is executive chef/partner at The

Capitol Grille in New Jersey.

’98 Sarah “Sadie” Higgins

is pastry cook II at the Four

Seasons Resort in Hualalai in Kailua-

Kona, HI. She is engaged to be married.

Tia McDonald is director of culinary

operations at the Vetri Foundation in

Philadelphia, PA, established to help

kids experience the connection between

healthy eating and healthy living through

food, education, and social interaction.

Dewayne Vandevander is executive

sous chef at Richmond Country Club in

Richmond, VA.

’99 Daniel Decesare is chef/

owner of Sammy D’s Cafe in

Lake George, NY. Susan Woytowich

Ferry is manager at Larry’s Outboard

Service in Tiberton, RI. In May 2011,

she received her bachelor’s in business

management from Johnson & Wales

University. Luke LaBar is business

insights consultant for Symphony IRI

Group in Chicago, IL. Patrick M. Stark

is executive chef at Sundown at Granada

in Dallas, TX.

’00 Michael Henville is execu-

tive chef at Oualie Beach Re-

sort in Charlestown, Nevis, West Indies.

Carolyn Bond Kern is chef-instructor

for Sur La Table in Boulder, CO. She

welcomed daughter Lola in 2011. Chris-

topher Macchia is executive chef at

Florentine in Chicago, IL.

’01 Nicholas DiGiovine is a

marketing associate for Sysco

Corporation in Philadelphia, PA. Sean

Eslinger is executive chef at 900 Wall

Restaurant in Bend, OR. Timothy Fet-

ter is executive chef for Parkhurst Dining

Services in Pittsburgh, PA. He received

the 2012 Chef of the Year award from the

Laurel Highlands Chapter of the ACF.

This honor came on the heels of the birth

of his second child, Evan, in August 2011.

Kathleen (Esposito) Long is content

manager at Bounty Hunter Rare Wine

and Provisions in Napa, CA. Nicholas

Ritchie is executive chef for Alex Ital-

Almost 40% of CIA students

are referred by our alumni!

Any prospective student you

refer is eligible to receive an

Alumni Referral Scholarship

as well as other scholarship

opportunities. You can

change a life. It’s easy!

Just visit www.

ciaalumninetwork.com/refer

You Make A

Difference!

Eugene Benjamin ’52

H. Thomas Emery ’55

Edward Griffin ’56

Robert E. Kenerson ’57

Raymond T. Robb ’57

Ralph A. Gardner ’64

George Edward Clark ’66

Jim Heywood ’67

Edward A. Kerr ’68

David Paul Bargmann ’69

Frank Anthony Chianese ’70

Thomas M. Hyll ’70

William S. Mank ’70

Robert M. Potanovich ’71

Ralph H. Pettifer ’72

Donald H. Tietjen ’75

Thomas L. Armstrong, Jr. ’78

Mark Ignatious Frizell ’79

Joseph P. Hardwick ’79

Charles P. Garvey ’80

Madelyn Cutler ’81

Romano Filippi ’81

Albert W. Runser II ’83

Jeffrey Scott Ritchey ’84

Gregory R. Gevurtz ’87

Armand John Ferraro ’88

Paula (Seplavy) Ledney ’97

Clarence Willmore Cruse ’10

Victor Garcia ’12

In Memoriamian Restaurant in Rutherford, CA. The

location was recently approved as a CIA

externship site. Laura Simpson is sous

chef 1 at the Ritz-Carlton in Philadelphia,

PA.

’02 Alexander Chase is execu-

tive chef at Masu Sushi & Ro-

bata in Minneapolis, MN. He spent the

summer of 2009 commercial salmon fish-

ing in Kodiak, AK. He is also a certified

yoga teacher who enjoys rock climbing,

bicycle tours, and travel. Matthew Ifko-

vitz is sous chef at Flatiron in Red Hook,

NY. Bradford Lewis is sous chef/ban-

quet chef at the Bay Harbor Yacht Club

in Bay Harbor, MI. Don McClellan,

Jr. is executive chef at Cherokee Nation

Entertainment in Catoosa, OK. Amar

Santana is chef/partner of Broadway by

Amar Santana in Laguna Beach, CA.

’03 Ore Dagan is sales manager

for the New Zealand King

Salmon Company—Western Region of

North America. The company raises

King Salmon in the pristine waters of the

Marlborough Sounds in New Zealand.

William Dissen is chef/owner of The

Market Place in Asheville, NC. In 2012,

Monterey Bay Aquarium chose him as

Seafood Watch Ambassador and Fortune

magazine named him Green Chef of the

Year. In addition, William was selected

to host the annual Fortune Brainstorm

GREEN Conference. In 2010, Mother

Nature Network selected him as one of 40

Chefs Under 40, in recognition of his in-

novative approach to sustainable cuisine.

John Eisensmith is executive chef at

Six Plates Winebar in Durham, NC. Paul

Fucello is sous chef at The Seawane

Country Club in Hewlett Harbor, NY. He

welcomed son Samson in April 2012. You

might remember his older sister Caroline

Jean (our “B-Block Baby” from mise en

place #53). Seems Paul is prepping his

kids for culinary careers. (see above)

’04 Amy Agin is a dietitian

working for the City of

Cincinnati in Cincinnati, OH. Patrick

Decker is a self-employed food stylist,

writer, recipe developer, and video pro-

ducer. Brian Flach is chef de cuisine at

Swoon Kitchen Bar in Hudson, NY. Lisa

Hanson is chef/owner of Mona Restau-

rant & Bar in Minneapolis, MN. Michael

Nestrud is director, client insights &

sensory science for In4mation Insights in

Needham Heights, MA.

’05 Michael Israel is owner

of food truck M.O.Eggrolls.

He creates Montreal-style, open-ended

eggrolls that are kosher-certified and deli-

cious. Karina (Gordon) Massaro and

her husband welcomed their first child,

Dominic James, in December 2011. Todd

Patterson is executive chef for The Surf

City Hotel in Surf City, NJ. He recently

got engaged. Laura Sawicki is executive

pastry chef at La Condes Austin and La

Condes Napa Valley. Rick Tran is sous

chef at the Four Seasons Hotel in New

York City. Previously, he spent five years

working at L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon,

also in New York City. Laura M. Wilson

is assistant sommelier at Per Se in New

York City.

’06 Steven Philipps is pastry

chef and kitchen manager at

Dolci Café & Bakery in Buffalo, NY. He

is also chef/owner of Mercenary Chef

Catering. Prior to that, he served in the

military and had deployments in Iraq and

Afghanistan between 2008 and 2011. He

also served on the Fort Drum Culinary

Team and took gold, silver, and three

bronze medals at ACF events.

’07 Daria Marie Astorino is

pastry chef/owner of But-

terfly Orchid Cakes. David E. Bacot is

sous chef for Mon Ami Gabi, a Lettuce

Entertain You property in Bethesda, MD.

Keri Levens is wine director for Aquavit

in New York City. David and Denien

Sramek are co-owners of Heritage

Bakery Café in Madison, WI. They

just celebrated their first anniversary.

Soohyun You is section chef at SPC’s

Paris-Croissant in Seoul, South Korea.

After graduating, she worked at Pierre

Gagnaire’s restaurant in Seoul. She is

currently continuing her education at the

Graduate School of Tourism at Kyung-

Hee University also in Seoul.

’08 Paul J. Kearns is campus

lead executive chef for

Sodexo in Trumbull, CT.

’09 Garret Fleming is executive

chef of The Pig restaurant in

Washington, DC. Roger Mason is chef/

owner of Basta Restaurant in Ossining,

NY. Austin Barry Siegel is food service

director for SAGE Dining Services in

Hartsdale, NY.

’10 Emery Long is sustainable

chef at The Island School

in Cape Eleuthera, Bahamas. Marnely

Rodriguez-Murray is pastry cook at

Vineyard Gold Club in Edgartown, MA.

Check out her food blog at www.cooking-

withbooks.blogspot.com.samson and sister Caroline Jean (our b-bloCK baby)

miChael israel ‘05 and his WiFe, oWners oF m.o.eGGrolls

35

1 New Visitor’s Center (or) 2 Technology or Research Labs (or) 2 New Production Kitchens (or) 4 New Classrooms (or) 733 New Scholarships

If 44,000 AlumniGive $25

We Raise $1,100,000That’s...

Are you a SILENT FAN of the CIA? Well, we need you to

MAKE SOME NOISEwww.ciagiving.org | 845-451-1602

*Did you know foundations and lenders pay close attention to the number of alumni who give back to the college? They use alumni participation as one of their criteria when they consider investing in

the CIA. So, as you can imagine, every bit of noise helps!

Remember, the CIA is a 501(c)(3) not-for-profit institution, so your donation is fully tax-deductible.

The Culinary Institute of America Alumni Relations 1946 Campus Drive Hyde Park, NY 12538-1499

to Register for Alumni Homecoming 2012 Join us for two days of food, fun, and friends on

Friday and Saturday, Sept. 21–22

Wonderful events are scheduled including:

Call the Alumni Relations Office today at 845-451-1401 or register online at www.ciaalumninetwork.com.

•“thyme to mingle” reception

•an elegant dinner to remember

•dancing and karaoke (back by popular demand!)

•2nd annual 5K “run for your Knives”

LAST CHANCE

Homecoming2012

•Campus update

•Culinary science demonstration

•“down home-coming” bbq lunch

•Campus tours

•special reception for all new haven alumni

Alumni Relations Admissions Advancement CIA Websites Career Services Registrar Professional Development General Information 845-451-1401 1-800-285-4627 845-905-4275 ciachef.edu 845-451-1275 845-451-1688 1-800-888-7850 845-452-9600 ciaalumninetwork.com ciagiving.org ciaprochef.com ciarestaurants.com