MAYBELLINE “ULTRA-LINER” LIQUID WATERPROOF EYELINERcsds.pratt.edu/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/Anna-Walant_EYE-LINER_… · proposals sources maybelline “ultra-liner” liquid

ABOUTHISTORY

MAYBELLINE “ULTRA-LINER” LIQUID WATERPROOF EYELINERANNA WALANT // IND 487P- SUSTAINABLE PRODUCTION METHODS // PROFESSOR FRANK MILLERO // SPRING 2013

HIGH DENSITY POLYETHYLENE(HDPE)

BOTTLE

THERMOPLASTIC ELASTOMER(TPE)

WIPER

NYLONBRUSH


WAND


CAP PRESS FIT CAP IS GLUED ONTO ROD SO THE CAP CAN BE DECORATED IN WHATEVER WAY THE COMPANY SEES FIT

PELLETS ARE FED TO A MACHINE THAT SLOWLY HEATS UP THE PLASTIC. INJECTED INTO A STEEL MOLD, AND THEN EJECTED WHEN SOLIDIFIED. MAKES VERY SPECIFIC, INTRICATE PARTS.

BRUSH MADE FROM STAPLING NYLON FIBERS TOGETHER. AFTER ASSEMBLED, BUFFERED TO A POINT (FOR A FINE LINE DURING APPLICATION)

TWO STEP MOLDING PROCESS- HOLLOW INJECTION MOLDED PRE-FORM IS STUCK INTO A MOLD CAVITY, AND BLOWN INTO. TAKES SHAPE AS BLOW-MOLDED PART, BUT WITH A CONTROLLED NECK

MAYBELLINE “EYESTUDIO” WATERPROOF GEL EYELINER

PROS- STAYS ON FOR A VERY LONG TIME. COULD WEAR OVERNIGHT AND NOT SMUDGE MUCH. NEVER FLAKEY. BOLD LOOK. SLIGHTLY SMUDGEY FOR AN EASY “SMOKEY EYE” LOOK. PART OF A “PROCESS” TO PUT ON- MADE ME FEEL MORE EXPERIENCED AS A USER. CONS- FELT HEAVY ON EYELIDS. HARD TO REMOVE PROPERLY. APPLIES ONTO EYELID IN THICK BRUSH STROKES. BRUSH EASILY LOST (REPLACED WITH A NORMAL PAINTBRUSH). IRRITATES EYES.

MAYBELLINE “ULTRA-LINER” LIQUID WATERPROOF EYELINER

PROS- THIN APPLICATOR. EASY TO APPLY A LITTLE, AND BUILD UP TO A BIGGER BOLDER LOOK IF DESIRED. NOT HARD TO REMOVE. DRIES FAST. CAN’T LOSE JUST ONE PART OF THE PRODUCT (LIKE THE BRUSH FROM THE GEL LINER). EASY TO USE. TAKES ONE TO TWO DIPS IN THE LINER TO GET DESIRED LOOK.

CONS-FLAKEY. SOMETIMES TOO EASY TO REMOVE. IRRITATES EYES. APPLICATOR OFTEN GETS GUNKY OVER TIME (THERE-FORE LESS THIN LINE).

SIMILAR PRODUCTS:

WHY I STARTED WEARING LIQUID EYELINER:

INJECTION BLOW MOLDING

INJECTION MOLDING

SILKSCREENLABEL (“DECO”)

PROCESS TREE


OIL EXTRACTION OIL EXTRACTION

DISTILLATION

EXTRUSION

STAPLING

?

ESTERFICATION

UV EXPOSURE

?

?

?

?

?

DISTILLATION

FLUORINATION

GAS PHASE POLYMERISATION

INJECTION BLOW MOLDED

(E) (E)CARBON DIOXIDE

CARBON DIOXIDE

CARBON DIOXIDE

CARBON DIOXIDE


NYLON SILKSCREEN DECORATION(“DECO”)

EYELINER FORMULA

CARBON DIOXIDE

CARBON DIOXIDE

CARBON DIOXIDE, WASTE WATER


CARBON DIOXIDE

CARBON DIOXIDE

CARBON DIOXIDE, PARTICULATE MATTER

(E) (E)

(E)

(E)

(E)

UV LIGHT(E)

POLYMERS, ETHYLENE, (E)

(E)

FLUORINE,(E)

SILKSCREEN

TRIMMING

OIL EXTRACTION

DISTILLATION

?

?

?

UV EXPOSURE

ASSEMBLY

LANDFILL

USE

PRESS FIT

(E)

(E)

(E)

CARBON DIOXIDE

THERMOPLASTIC ELASTOMER(TPE)

CARBON DIOXIDE, EXCESS INK, WASTE WATER

CARBON DIOXIDE, EXCESS FIBERS


CARBON DIOXIDE

CARBON DIOXIDE, FORMULA-CAUSED-IRRITATION

CARBON DIOXIDE

WASTE, LEAKS

CARBON DIOXIDE

(E)

UV LIGHT(E)

(E)

MAINTENENCE,(E)

(E)

(E)

KNOWN EFFECTS OF OIL:

GLOBAL CLIMATE CHANGE IS A KNOWN EFFECT OF USING OIL. THE USE, AND THEREFORE, BURNING OF OIL PRODUCES CARBON DIOXIDE EMISSIONS. THESE EMISSIONS HELP TO ADD TO THE GREENHOUSE GASSES THAT CONTRIBUTE TO GLOBAL CLIMATE CHANGE.CORAL BLEACHING CAN BE A RESULT OF THE CHANGE IN CLIMATE CONDITIONS. THE ORGANISM THAT LIVES INSIDE CORAL IS VERY SENSITIVE, AND IT RESPONDS POORLY TO CHANGES IN ITS ENVIRONMENT. WHEN THE WATER CHANGES TEMPERATURE, OFTEN THE CORAL WILL END UP DYING, LEADING TO CORAL BLEACHING.

OIL SPILLS ARE TRAGEDIES THAT UN-FORTUNATELY OCCUR DUE TO THE DESIRE AROUND OIL. IN 2008, OVER 200 PENGUINS WASHED ASHORE IN BRAZIL- ALTHOUGH THE CAUSE WAS NOT A LARGE OIL SPILL (LIKE THE BP OIL SPILL IN 2010), IT IS ALMOST MORE POIGNANT THAT A SMALL OCCURANCE HAD SUCH A LARGE EFFECT. THE CAUSE OF ALL OF THESE PENGUIN DEATHS IS SAID TO BE A SMALL SPILL FROM A BOAT A BIT OFFSHORE.

THERE ARE PLENTY OF HUMAN HEALTH EFFECTS THAT COME FROM BEING EXPOSED TO CRUDE OIL- THIS WAS SHOWN PARTICULARLY AFTER THE BP OIL SPILL IN 2010. VOLUNTEERS, AND EVEN RESIDENTS FROM THE AREA, HAVE SHOWN A WHOLE HOST OF A VARIETY OF DIFFERENT PROBLEMS- FROM RASHES TO SERIOUS RESPIRATORY ISSUES, AND EVEN MENTAL HEALTH PROBLEMS. SIMILAR RESULTS WERE SHOWN BY COMMUNITIES AND INDIVIDUALS WHO HAVE WITNESSED OTHER OIL SPILLS.

INGREDIENTS: Aqua/Water/Eau, Styrene Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates Crosspolymer, Alcohol Denatured, Butylene Glycol, VP Dimethiconylacrylate Polycarbamyl Polyglycol Ester, PEG 75 Lanolin, Phenoxyethanol, Xanthan Gum, Methylparaben, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Cellulose Gum, Disodium EDTA, Propylparaben, Simethicone, May Contain (+/-):, Iron Oxide (CI 77491), Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Iron Oxides (CI 77499), Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Ultramarine Blue Violet (CI 77007), Chromium Hydroxide Green (CI77289), Carmine (CI 75470), Chromium Oxide Green, Ferric Ammonium Ferrocyanide (CI 77510)

• PROPYLPARABEN: Developmental/reproductive toxicity, Ecotoxicology, Endocrine disruption, Allergies/immunotoxicity, Use restrictions

• ALCOHOL DENATURED: Enhanced skin absorption, Cancer, Developmental/reproductive toxicity, Multiple, additive exposure sources, Organ system toxicity (non-reproductive)

• METHYLPARABEN: Biochemical or cellular level changes, Endocrine disruption, Allergies/im-munotoxicity, Use restrictions

• PHENOXYETHANOL: Allergies/immunotoxicity, Irritation (skin, eyes, or lungs), Organ system toxicity (non-reproductive), Occupational hazards, Use restrictions

• PEG-75 LANOLIN: Data gaps, Contamination concerns (ETHYLENE OXIDE, 1,4-DIOXANE, ETH-YLENE OXIDE, 1,4-DIOXANE), Organ system toxicity (non-reproductive)

• POLYSORBATE-20: Contamination concerns (ETHYLENE OXIDE, 1,4-DIOXANE), Organ system toxicity (non-reproductive)

• CHROMIUM OXIDE GREENS: Enhanced skin absorption, Ecotoxicology, Organ system toxicity (non-reproductive), Persistence and bioaccumulation

• CHROMIUM HYDROXIDE GREEN: Ecotoxicology, Organ system toxicity (non-reproductive), Persistence and bioaccumulation

• IRON OXIDES: Enhanced skin absorption, Organ system toxicity (non-reproductive), Persistence and bioaccumulation

• STYRENE/ ACRYLATES COPOLYMER: Contamination concerns (METHACRYLIC ACID, ACRYLIC ACID, 2-ETHYLHEXYL ACRYLATE), Use restrictions

• ULTRAMARINES: Multiple, additive exposure sources• FERRIC AMMONIUM FERROCYANIDE: Ecotoxicology, Organ system toxicity (non-reproductive)• CARMINE: Ecotoxicology• BUTYLENE GLYCOL: Irritation (skin, eyes, or lungs)• SODIUM DEHYDROACETATE: Occupational hazards (http://www.ewg.org/skindeep/product/463058/Maybelline_Line_Works_Ultra_Ultra-Liner_Liq-uid_Waterproof_Liquid_Liner%2C_Black/)

WASTE THAT ENDS UP ON LANDFILLS AND IN THE OCEAN CAN HAVE HORRIBLE AFFECTS ON ANIMALS AND PEOPLE ALIKE. SHOWN BELOW IS WHAT HAPPENS WHEN THE WASTE IS SMALL ENOUGH TO BE INGESTED BY BIRDS, AS PHOTOGRAPHED BY CHRIS JORDAN.

PROPOSALS SOURCES


FRUIT AND VEGETABLE PIGMENTS INTERCHANGABLE PARTS MAKING AS NEEDED

JELL-O IS A BRAND THAT HAS AT LEAST TWO VARYING WAYS TO INTERACT WITH THEIR PRODUCT: THE PRE-MADE CUPS OF JELL-O THAT ARE SOLD IN THE RE-FIRDGERATED SECTION AT THE FOOD STORE, AND THE BOXED POWDER. THE POWDERED JELL-O IS A MUCH BETTER PRODUCT- IT CAN BE MADE WITH ONLY A SPOONFUL OF THE BOX, OR THE WHOLE THING. IT CAN BE MIXED WITH DIFFERENT FLAVORS AND FOODS, AND IT CAN BE PLACED IN ANY DESIRED CONTAINER. I THINK THIS IS AN IMPORTANT EXAMPLE, BECAUSE CURRENTLY COSMETICS ARE MOSTLY PRE-MADE FORMULAS, AND THEREFORE GO TO WASTE MORE OFTEN THAN NOT.

THE BRAND “ORAL-B” HAS AN ELECTRIC TOOTHBRUSH THAT THEY SELL, ALONG WITH MANY ATTACHMENTS FOR IT. THERE ARE HEADS FOR FLOSSING, FOR WHITENING, FOR SENSITIVITY, FOR KIDS, ETC. THE EXTREME BENEFIT OF ALL OF THESE OPTIONS THAT FIT ONTO THE CHARGING BASE IS THAT THERE IS SO MUCH ROOM FOR CUSTOMIZATION BY THE CONSUMER. I WONDER HOW THIS COULD BE APPLIED TO THE COSMETIC INDUSTRY- IN-STEAD OF MAKING A THOUSAND AND ONE DIFFERENT TYPES OF APPLICATORS THAT COME WITH THEIR OWN FORMULAS, THE SAME FORMULA COULD BE USED WITH MULTIPLE BRUSHES. I THINK THIS COULD CHANGE THE FACE OF MAKEUP ENTIRELY- NOW, WHEN THE APPLICATOR HAS BEEN WORN DOWN, OR THE FADS HAVE CHANGED, THE APPLICATOR CAN BE SWITCHED OUT WITHOUT HAVING TO REPLACE THE SOLUTION AS WELL.

THE BRAND “100% PURE” CLAIMS TO BE1”00% VEGETARIAN, 100% NATURAL, GLUTEN FREE....100% PURE EYE LINERS ARE MADE FROM ANTIOXIDANT RICH FRUIT AND VEGETABLE PIGMENTS. YOU'LL LOVE OUR HYDRATING AND NON STICKY FORMULA.” HOWEVER, SOME RESEARCH INTO THE BRAND SHOWED THAT CUSTOMER REVIEWS WERE LESS THAN IDEAL. “-FLAKES A BIT-CAN CRACK A LIL-A LOT OF PRODUCT COMES OUT WHEN YOU PULL THE WAND OUT-THIS IS MOSTLY MY LASHES FAULT CAUSE THEIR LONG AND GET IN THE WAY BUT ITS HARD TO APPLY THE LINER CUZ THE WAND IS A LIL LONG AND BULKY. I END UP GETTING LINER ALL OVER MY LASHES-KINDA THICK SO YOU HAVE TO REALLY SHAKE AND SWIRL IT” (HTTP://WWW.MAKEUPALLEY.COM/PRODUCT/SHOWREVIEW.ASP/ITEMID=139713/CREAMY-LIQUID-LINER-IN-BLACK-TEA-/100-PERCENT-PURE/EYELINER)& “I AGREE WITH THE PREVIOUS REVIEW, THIS PRODUCT IS FLAWED. THE PRODUCT CONSISTENCY IS UNEVEN, MAKING IT HARD TO APPLY, EVEN FOR A LIQUID LINE. IT ALSO GOES ON A SHEER PURPLE IN PLACES, SO TO ACHIEVE A REGULAR COLOUR IT HAS TO BE LAYERED, WHICH LEADS TO IT BEING QUITE THICK AND THEN FLAKING AS IT DRIES.IT WAS WORTH A TRY BUT I’D RECOMMEND TO AVOID!” (HTTP://WWW.MAKEUPALLEY.COM/PRODUCT/SHOWREVIEW.ASP/ITEMID=139714/CREAMY-LIQUID-LINER-IN-BLACKBERRY/100-PERCENT-PURE/EYELINER)

I WAS ALSO DISHEARTENED TO FIND A FEW RIDICULOUS CLAIMS ON THEIR WEBSITE, SUCH AS: “100% PURE PRODUCTS ARE BASED AROUND ANTIOXIDANTS. WHY ARE ANTIOXIDANTS SO IMPORTANT?EVERY MOMENT, WE ARE SLOWLY DETERIORATING. FREE RADICALS SUCH AS THE SUN, SMOG, SMOKE, CIGARETTES, ETC. ATTACK US, CAUSING AGING, WRINKLES, AND CANCER. ONLY ANTIOXIDANTS PROTECT US, FIGHTING OFF THE DAMAGING FREE RADICALS. SUN BLOCK IS IMPORTANT BECAUSE IT BLOCKS UP TO 80% OF UV RAYS, BUT SUN BLOCKS DO NOT PROTECT AGAINST OTHER FREE RADICALS. YOUR SKIN NEEDS ANTIOXIDANTS FOR SUN PROTECTION AND PROTECTION AGAINST ALL DAMAGING FREE RADICALS.” BUT THEY PROVIDE NO DOCUMENTS OR RESEARCH TO SUPPORT THEIR CLAIMS.

USER BENEFITS

IN A SYSTEM WHERE THERE ARE INTERCHANGABLE PARTS, THERE ARE SEV-ERAL BENEFITS FOR THE CONSUMER:

• THE ABILITY TO PERSONALIZE IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT. IT MAKES THE CONSUMER FEEL LIKE THEY ARE GETTING THE ULTIMATE USAGE OUT OF THEIR PURCHASE.

• WHEN ONE OF THE PARTS IS DAMAGED IN SOME WAY- WHETHER IT IS WORN FROM OVER-USE, OR THERE IS A MANUFACTURING FLAW, NOT ALL OF THE COMPONENTS ON THE PRODUCT NEED TO BE REPLACED.

• IF THE OVERALL PRODUCT WANTS TO BE SHARED AMONG INDIVIDUALS, THE INTERCHANGABLE PARTS MAKE THIS POSSIBLE. FOR THE COST OF ONE OVERALL PRODUCT AND SEVERAL ACCESSORIES, THEY CAN MAKE IT US-ABLE FOR MORE THAN ONE PERSON.

USER BENEFITS

IN A SYSTEM WHERE THERE IS A HEALTHY AND “TRANSPARENT” LIST OF IN-GREDIENTS, THERE ARE SEVERAL BENEFITS FOR THE CONSUMER:

• TRUST THAT THE BRAND WILL DO THE BEST THING FOR THE HEALTH OF THE CUSTOMER- BETTER RELATIONSHIP

• OVERALL BETTER HEALTH OF CONSUMER- NO BAD REACTIONS TO UNPRO-NOUNCEABLE INGREDIENTS

USER BENEFITS

IN A SYSTEM WHERE THERE IS A “MIX AS NECESSARY” SYSTEM THERE ARE SEVER-AL BENEFITS FOR THE CONSUMER:

• THE BIGGEST BENEFIT, FROM A CONSUMER STANDPOINT, IS THE ABILITY FOR CONTROL IN THE OUTCOME OF THE FINAL PRODUCT- THEY CAN ADD OR SUBTRACT ANY INGREDIENT FROM THE MIX AND MAKE A COMPLETELY CUSTOMIZABLE END-RESULT.

• THERE IS PORTION CONTROL, MEANING THAT THE USER MAKES AS MUCH AS THEY NEED FOR A GIVEN USE- THERE IS NO REASON FOR THE PRODUCT TO BE WASTED (I.E. I CAN CHOOSE TO MIX AS MUCH JELL-O AS I SEE NECESSARY WITH A BOX, BUT WITH THE PRE-MADE CUPS I AM BOUND BY WHAT IS PROVIDED)

• BECAUSE PART OF THE “USE” STAGE OF THE PRODUCT REQUIRES “MAKING” THE FINAL RESULT, THE CONSUMER MAY BECOME A MORE LOYAL FAN OF THE COM-PANY (I.E. USERS OF HOME HAIRDYE KITS MIGHT HAVE A MORE POSITIVE VIEW OF THE COMPANY AFTER MAKING THE FINAL MIXTURE, NOT TO MENTION A VERY STRONG SENSE OF INDEPENDENCE THAT COMES WITH IT BEING “DIY”)

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Maybelline LLC

Cosmetics

Cosmetics+production

Cosmetics+production+manufacture

Cosmetic Industry

Toiletry industry

Cosmeceuticals

Polyethylene production

HDPE production

HDPE manufacturing

LDPE production

LDPE manufacturing

Fluorine

Fluorination

Cosmetic Ingredients

TPE

Oil Distillation byproducts

Output of Oil Extraction

How is HDPE made?

Human health affects from oil

oil Human health affects

oil+human health

Landfill

Landfill affects

Eyeliner

Liquid liner

Health of cosmetics

Natural cosmetics

How is nylon made?

Nylon manufacturing

Silkscreen

Silkscreen ink

Silkscreen manufacturing

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http://www.aipma.net/images/pp15.gif

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Documents

MAYBELLINE “ULTRA-LINER” LIQUID WATERPROOF EYELINERcsds.pratt.edu/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/Anna-Walant_EYE-LINER_… · proposals sources maybelline “ultra-liner” liquid