Lyburn Cheese

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On the northern edge of the New Forest, straddled by the river Blackwater, lies Lyburn Farm and 170 rather contented cows. It started in 1952 with three pedigree Guernseys: Hope, Faith & Charity and today, Mike and Judy along with their family, contribute to making one of the UK’s most unique, delicious and celebrated artisan cheeses.

Text of Lyburn Cheese

  • Meats, Eats,Drinks & Leaves

    around Hampshire and the Isle of Wight

  • Lyburn Farmhouse Cheesemakers

    Hampshire book.indb 338 30/06/2014 21:28

  • Lyburn Farmhouse Cheesemakers

    Lyburn Farmhouse Cheesemakers

    Mike & Judy Smales

    Three generations of milking happy cows

    On the northern edge of the New Forest, straddled by the river Blackwater, lies Lyburn Farm and 170 rather contented cows. It started in 1952 with three pedigree Guernseys: Hope, Faith & Charity and today, Mike and Judy along with their family, contribute to making one of the UKs most unique, delicious and celebrated artisan cheeses.

    The day starts at six in the morning when the herd comes in for its first milking. The milk is immediately

    pasteurised, a starter and vegetarian rennet are added and within a few hours the curds are cut to release the whey. With expert timing, a wink and a nod, the curds are ladled into the cheese moulds and the whole operation is complete in time for lunch.

    Lyburn Gold is the basis on which all the varieties are flavoured and ripened. Being a pressed cheese it is

    classified as a hard cheese, but its soft and creamy, more

    like Gouda than Cheddar. Stoney Cross is a mould-ripened cheese thats subtle and smooth with an earthy finish.

    While Lyburns Winchester comes closer to the texture of a Cheddar (but it s not) and Old Winchester, is older and harder. Its what locals use as their Parmesan.

    Lyburns lovely cheeses can be found at many of Hampshires markets and feature in recipes and cheese boards across the land, but its worth stopping by their farm shop to say hello to those happy cows.

    Hampshire book.indb 339 30/06/2014 21:28

  • The Globe & The Chestnut Horse

    The Globes perfect ploughmans

    Wedges of Lyburn Old Winchester cheese

    A thick slice of Hampshire ham

    Piccalilli

    Tomato chutney

    Flowerpot brioche

    Pickled onions

    Butter

    Before starting sterilise the jars.* Place the vinegar, coriander seeds and a pinch of salt in a large pan and bring to the boil then add the cauliflower and onion and

    simmer for five minutes, or until slightly softened but

    still crunchy then remove from the heat. Put the mustard, flour, turmeric and ginger in a small bowl and whisk in

    the cider vinegar until smooth. Set aside. Add the green beans, garlic and sugar to the cauliflower and return to

    medium heat for 2 minutes until the sugar has dissolved. Drain the vegetables, reserving the vinegar and return the liquid to the pan. Add the mustard mixture, bring back to the boil then reduce on low heat for 10 minutes until it coats the back of a spoon and season to taste. Return the vegetables to the sauce, add a bit of water if dry and balance the flavour with seasoning or a bit of sugar and

    spoon into sterilised jars. Seal immediately and cool. The piccalilli should cure for 2-3 months before eating but can be served fresh. Once opened use within 1 week.

    For the tomato chutney, heat the butter and oil in a pan and cook the onion and garlic until soft and lightly coloured then stir in the vinegar, sugar, tomato pure and chopped tomato and season to taste. Simmer gently for a few minutes until the tomato just starts to break down. Stir in the chopped herbs, cool and store in an airtight container.

    * See Glossary, page 354

    Travellers ploughmans: Bood Doggle, Ringwood Brewery, Hampshire

    Full tasting notes are on page 318

    Tanguys tip

    Piccalilli

    Yield 2 litres

    Equipment: 4 500 ml kilner jars or equivalent

    700 ml malt vinegar

    2 tbsp coriander seeds

    a pinch of salt

    500 g cauliflower, very small florets

    2 onions, chopped

    3 tbsp dry mustard

    3 tbsp plain flour

    1 tbsp ground turmeric

    2 tsp ground ginger

    50 ml cider vinegar

    100 g French beans, trimmed to 1cm pieces

    2 garlic cloves, sliced

    200 g granulated sugar

    Tomato chutney25 g butter

    1 tbsp olive oil

    onion, finely chopped

    1 garlic clove, chopped

    1 tbsp red wine vinegar

    1 tsp caster sugar

    1 tbsp tomato pure

    1 beefsteak tomato, seeds removed & chopped

    a small bunch of parsley, finely chopped

    a few chives, chopped

    salt & freshly ground black pepper

    Flowerpot brioche (see page 348)

    Hampshire book.indb 122 30/06/2014 21:15

  • Hampshire book.indb 123 30/06/2014 21:15

  • The Pig

    Piggy bitsBrock Eggs

    Serves 6 to 8 as a sharing dish or starter

    Equipment: deep fryer, food processor

    2 ham hocks

    pigs head

    mirpoix: 1 onion, leek, carrot & celery stick, chopped

    1 tsp black peppercorns

    1 bay leaf

    2 sprigs of thyme, leaves only, chopped

    sea salt

    12 quail eggs, cooked for exactly 2 minutes

    a small bunch of parsley, chopped

    a pinch of celery salt

    pepper

    pane mix: flour, egg & breadcrumbs

    Colemans vinaigrette1 tbsp pasteurised egg yolk

    2 tbsp white wine vinegar

    1 tbsp English mustard

    salt & pepper

    rapeseed oil

    Smoked bacon & apple arancini

    Serves 4

    Equipment: deep fryer, hand blender, fine sieve

    100 g Arborio risotto rice

    8 rashers dry-cured smoked streaky bacon, diced

    1 onion, diced

    1 large apple (variety your choice), peeled & diced

    2 litres vegetable or chicken stock

    100 g flat leaf parsley, chopped

    50 g mature Lyburn Old

    Winchester cheese

    50 ml rapeseed oil

    salt & pepper

    2 eggs

    300 g fine white bread crumb

    200 g flour

    Spiced tomato sauce5 Isle of Wight tomatoes, de-seeded & chopped

    5 garlic cloves, finely chopped

    75 ml white wine vinegar

    75 g brown sugar

    tsp ground ginger

    tsp sea salt

    tsp smoked paprika

    tsp cayenne pepper

    tsp dry mustard seed

    tsp clove

    tsp ground allspice

    2 star anise

    A Pinch of Salt Karma ham & olives

    Heres a dollop of inspiration from James on how to make a simple snack elegant. His delicious karma ham is described on page 317 and hes dressed it with green olives, pickled golden beetroot and a few flowers.

    Hampshire book.indb 302 30/06/2014 21:26

  • The Pig

    Preheat oven to 180C and place the mirpoix, herbs and spices into a large roasting pan with the ham hocks and pigs head, cover with cold water and cook for 2 hours until the meat falls off the bone. When cool enough, pick off all the meat and shred by hand into a large bowl then add chopped parsley and season to taste.

    For the quail eggs, place the eggs in boiling water for exactly 2 minutes then plunge into ice water to stop the cooking process. When cooked very gently peel.

    Next spread the meat into thin circles on a clean work surface and wrap the quail eggs in the meat. Chill for 30 minutes. Pane in breadcrumbs and deep fry. (You can also colour in a non-stick pan and flash through the oven

    for a healthy option.) When crispy, season with celery salt and serve with Colemans mustard vinaigrette.

    For the Colemans vinaigrette, place the egg yolk, vinegar & mustard in a food processor and while mixing slowly add the oil until emulsified and thickened. Season to taste

    and dress under the Brock eggs.

    For the arancini, saut the bacon in oil then add the onion and cook until soft then add the apple and cook until it has a little colour. Add the rice and sweat down for 5 minutes to release a little starch. Bring the stock to the boil and add a ladle at a time to the rice stirring all the time. Continue until rice is cooked al dente then remove from the heat, stirring continuously for about 5 minutes to take the residual heat out and stop the mixture over cooking. Once cool add the chopped parsley and season to taste.

    Preheat a deep fryer to 190C. Roll the rice into 35 g balls. Make a dent through to the middle with your finger and stuff with 10 g of cheese and re-roll into

    balls. Set out the flour, beaten eggs and breadcrumbs

    on plates, pane each rice ball and deep fry for 3 minutes until perfectly golden.

    For the tomato sauce, blend the vinegar, cloves and garlic together in a heavy saucepan and cook without colour then add the rest of the ingredients and cook slowly for 35 minutes until thick and pulpy. Blitz with a hand blender until smooth and pass through a fine

    sieve. Season to taste.

    Brock eggs

    Smoked bacon & apple arancini

    Hampshire book.indb 303 30/06/2014 21:26

  • Hampshire book.indb 172 30/06/2014 21:18

  • Lainston House Hotel

    Stockbridge organic mushroom fricasse with poached baby leeks, rosemary linguini& Lyburn cheese

    Serves 4

    Equipment: pasta machine & drying rack

    400 ml vegetable stock

    200 g pasta dough

    100 g rosemary sprigs

    4 baby leeks

    25 g parsley, washed & finely chopped

    25 g banana shallots, finely chopped

    1 clove garlic, finely chopped

    600 g assorted Stockbridge organic mushrooms

    3 plum tomatoes

    a splash of vegetable oil

    100 g unsalted butter

    shavings of Lyburn (or Parmesan) cheese to garnish

    Pasta330 g tipo 00 flour

    3 eggs

    1 yolk

    100 g rosmary sprigs

    Pasta can take on so many flavours. Rosemary is a natural choice. Peppery watercress

    or spinach, pepper, oregano. Give it a go.

    To flavour the pasta, place the fresh rosemary sprigs in the microwave

    for 20 seconds at a time checking each time until they are completely dry, then with a pestle and mortar crush until a fi